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Christmas on the Camino



I intend to walk from León to Santiago in December, and depending on progress/weather should be spending Christmas Eve at Villafranca or O Cebreiro, and walking on Christmas Day either from Villafranca to O Cebreiro, or from O Cebreiro to Triacastela or Samos (might be a bit ambitious if the weather is iffy).

What is the tradition in Spain? Are there midnight masses? Or just morning masses on Christmas Day? Are there any evening masses?

Does anyone know how I can find out times of masses. I’ve tried googling “navidad misa Cebreiro” etc but found nothing.

I am really excited about this pilgrimage, it will a completely different experience from the summer. I am one who is happy with the crowds and the heat, refuses to race for a bed, and finds the whole experience a spiritually uplifting joy, but this will be a real camino interior, a time for reflexion.

Thanks for your help
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Nunca se camina solo

I suspect you may not be able to source this information in advance unless you e mail the albergues/hostals you will be using. There is a tradition of Midnight Mass in Spain but remember that in rural areas priests are few and far between often with one priest serving many parishes. Daily Mass is almost invariably in the evening. I usually ask where I am staying or in the bar adjacent to the church - neither have been the most reliable sources of information :)

Good luck in the quest and it would be good to know what you discover.

Buen Camino when it comes.


Javier Martin

Veteran Member
Hi Mike.

There's both masses, but i depends on where you are in this moment. Ask, may be one or two days before, in any church.

Going to a "practical" information, on 25th you can find problems to take a breakfast and may be to take lunch. Not in the "Ave Fenix" in Villafranca, but in Cebreiro. And possibly the same problem to take dinner the 24th, and to buy some food.

Have a muy buen Camino.

Javier Martin
Madrid, Spain.
O Cebreiro's parish website is at
I'm sure they'll be happy to put you up at the hospederia, but it might be a good idea to email/call them first to check. Be prepared for cold - snow is by no means impossible!

Mass times for Astorga diocese at ... storga.htm
As Javier says, Villafranca should not be a problem as regards food/accommodation, but you could check with the diocesan office at Ponferrada when you pass through as regards Xmas masses.

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