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Cluny to Le Puy - Pilgrims needed

Santiago Photo Book

StephenChad

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Norte 2014
CF 2017
Le Puy to Moissac 2018
Just noticed this fine looking 320k trail has been recently upgraded with waymarks, picnic tables, dry toilets and accommodation.
A new guidebook has been published.
But they are short of pilgrims ....

 

Margaret Butterworth

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2013 (Pamplona to Burgos)
2014 (Burgos to Villafranca del Bierzo)
2015 (Villafranca to Santiago)
2016 (Le Puy to Conques; SJPP To Pamplona)
Note they have included "dry toilets" in their preparation of the Way.
 

gittiharre

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
Just noticed this fine looking 320k trail has been recently upgraded with waymarks, picnic tables, dry toilets and accommodation.
A new guidebook has been published.
But they are short of pilgrims ....

If they are serious about attracting pilgrims, the french need to start marketing their pilgrim routes in other languages and for hosts to learn a few basic language skills beyond french. I was fine, as I speak reasonable french, but if one doesn't it is quite isolating around the dinner table. There is so much potential and having more people on the trails would do something to keep rural France alive. Villages and small towns are closing down fast. On the Le Puy route, most of the french walkers are retired groups of french, hardly any young people. A splattering of Canadians, Germans, Swiss and others. There is a lot that could be done to attract more pilgrims, without overcrowding the routes in France.
 

brian560

Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF, VdlP 2016, Port. Central, Norte , Port. Coastal (2018).San Salvador and Primitivo (2019)
If they are serious about attracting pilgrims, the french need to start marketing their pilgrim routes in other languages and for hosts to learn a few basic language skills beyond french. I was fine, as I speak reasonable french, but if one doesn't it is quite isolating around the dinner table. There is so much potential and having more people on the trails would do something to keep rural France alive. Villages and small towns are closing down fast. On the Le Puy route, most of the french walkers are retired groups of french, hardly any young people. A splattering of Canadians, Germans, Swiss and others. There is a lot that could be done to attract more pilgrims, without overcrowding the routes in France.
Very true. My food options in rural France are limited to what I can point to.
 

Kitsambler

Jakobsweg Junkie
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy 2010-11, Prague 2012, Nuremberg 2013, Einsiedeln 2015, Geneva 2017-18
If they are serious about attracting pilgrims, the french need to start marketing their pilgrim routes in other languages and for hosts to learn a few basic language skills beyond french.
I've heard it said that 85% of the walkers in France (at least on the Le Puy route) are French, so I suspect the best marketing target for the new route would be French hiking groups.
 

alhartman

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Hope so!
On my bucket list for a few years!! Barrier is my lack of decent French having retained almost none from High School.
And seeing what has happened to the Camino Frances, I will never, never, never suggest marketing of any of the remaining routes!!
But guess it is time to buy the new guide and keep dreaming.
I would follow-up with the RLStephenson/GR70 having been driven off by the July heat a few years ago after just 4 nites.
 

FLEUR

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances 2012 - 2016
Voie de Paris / Tours Aulnay to Saintes 2017
Camino del Baztan 2018

HaraldS

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2011-2017: Home(Germany) to SdC via Cologne-Taizé-Le Puy-Somport-Camino Aragones-Camino Frances
I did the route in October 2014. Quite rainy, but nevertheless a marvelous experience. The responsable Confraternity, the Association Rhône-Alpes des Amis de Saint-Jacques publishes their Orange Guide since years which is a must on this way.
Some French skills are a big plus if you're walking there. Be aware that this is rural France, small villages, not many young people, the elder ones sometimes struggling with other languages than French. German was okay, occasionally.
I would definetly commence at Taizé, 11km north of Cluny. Participating in these endless meditative Taizé chants with thousands of young people is an unforgettable experience, don't miss that.
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking.
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
I walked the Le Puy in June 2018 as far as Auvillar and loved it. Gitti is correct in saying most walkers were groups of older French friends. I walked with two America friends, so we did not feel alone at the dinner table...a few of the French did speak some English. It was a great, memorable Camino, albeit different than Spain.
 

JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Camino(s) past & future
100 characters or fewer : see signature details
I walked a different route in 1997 (IIRC -- could have been 1996, or '98 ?) via Beaujeu, Montbrison I think (?), and Monistrol.

It's a beautiful hiking area, though I'd hesitate to call these GR routes "caminos" or "pilgrimages" -- I certainly don't count my own hiking trip there among mine. There's nothing at all wrong with that of course, and these routes towards Le Puy could most certainly form a part of somebody's Camino who started from further away north than Le Puy but nevertheless wanted to follow that major route.

Though personally, if I were starting in the area near Cluny, I'd likely make my way towards the Vézelay route (with a likely detour via Beaujeu) rather than heading for Le Puy -- but to each his own !!
 
Well, We start on Tuesday .Hopefully. Still waiting for my rucksack in Lyon which didn't make it pass Birmingham on Friday. Now Sunday 7 pm and supposedly the courier has the bag as at 9 am today.
Anyway , will endeavour to post on this thread as we go , to help those to come as we have been helped in the past . (Thks Margaret aka KiwiNomad)
 

NavyBlue

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy and Camino Frances. Via Francigena. Tro-Breiz in progress.
Hi,

Nothing really new at first sight, apart from the marketing effort and the GR renumbering. Maybe some changes in the field.

We walked it, between Charlieu and Le Puy, in May 2014. Our guidebook was a... 2002 issue.
We met few pilgrims, most of them young Germans, walking from Trier or other south-western German towns.

I remember having found on a golden book a desperate message :
"I have walked several Camino ways, more than 7000 km. This is the worst one. Not a single pilgrim around. Endless ups followed by endless downs. Hostile population etc."

No, it is not that bad, by far! We really enjoyed this way.
But yes, you will hardly be noticed. We went to a sunday mass in some little town church in the mid of a walking day but did not rise any interest. The chambre d'hotes owners will be glad to see you, the landscapes and monuments will be pleasant, but don't expect much more IMHO.
 
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Ok.Here we go. Lyon to Macon tgv. Then bus to Cluny. Stumbled onto the Abbey and then walked to the main street. Bought sanwiches at the first Boulangerie/ Patisserie. Very nice. Very large. Decent coffee. Filled up at the fountain in the main street. WATER SUPPLIES SEEM TO BE LIMITED DO FILL UP WHEN YOU CAN.
Turned left onto St Odile . We are on our way!
I think the route has been changed from the GR765 book. TRUST THE CHEMIN SCALLOP SHjELLS.
The route now bypasses Vaux bia quiet country roads to St Cecile.
The blue shell stickers are fresh and plentiful . The one with a cross stopping u heading to Vaux ( turn left instead) was on a precarious pole so beware.
Tiring day as it was our first. A few uphills but fit people are ok. Less fit will be glad at 18 mark to reach Tramayes. We stayed at la Grange Fleurie . Highly recommend it. Great accommodation , good didinner and breakfast.
THEY ALSO HELPED WITH BAG TRANSPORT TO Gros Bois.
 
Day 2. Sore. Bootiful weather. NO FOOD SUPPLIES BETWEEN TRAMAYES AND OUROUX. So we purchased food at Carrefour .
We also didn't see water fountains and the chemin bypasses Cenves. Luckily we were offered water by an ex pellerin.
Tough day. Lots of uphills in exposed areas. Warm day so we drank about 2 litres each.
Some fellow travellers were struggling when they stppped at 9 km mark for lunch. They had no luck where they stayed getting a bag carried.
I am carrying 9 Kilos plus and its OK . Just. No doubt I will be getting fitter as we head to LePuy.
Accommodation is not plentiful. We prefer chambres dotes and are lucky that we can afford to. But we had booked first 3 nights and glad we did. Now booking up to 5 nights ahead as being more confident that we can get the distance.
 
Day 2. Sore. Bootiful weather. NO FOOD SUPPLIES BETWEEN TRAMAYES AND OUROUX. So we purchased food at Carrefour .
We also didn't see water fountains and the chemin bypasses Cenves. Luckily we were offered water by an ex pellerin.
Tough day. Lots of uphills in exposed areas. Warm day so we drank about 2 litres each.
Some fellow travellers were struggling when they stppped at 9 km mark for lunch. They had no luck where they stayed getting a bag carried.
I am carrying 9 Kilos plus and its OK . Just. No doubt I will be getting fitter as we head to LePuy.
Accommodation is not plentiful. We prefer chambres dotes and are lucky that we can afford to. But we had booked first 3 nights and glad we did. Now booking up to 5 nights ahead as being more confident that we can get the distance.
Oh crap. I don't how to get rid of above quote and trying to do it on a phone is frustrating. Still day 2 . Finished at Grois Bois. Jean Roberts place. Terrific. Great chambre dote and gite. Highly recommended. He also helped with pack forwarding. Dinner was a great salad de thon followed by porc d homemade lemon tart. Delish.
Day 3. Onward to Posieres. Up and down , through pine forests and then to th highest point in the Rhone. Mt Rigaud. Tiring 20K day. Posieres was ok.hotel food was a.good attempt but not up to Jean Roberts or Karen's at Le Grange F. Still nicer than most gites but also more expensive.
Day 4. More up Nd down to Le Cergne. Had the nicest encounter with a gentleman that provided us with water ,then let us help ourselves to the fattest raspberries we have ever seen. Then fed us on saucisson and a glass of 2006 Burgundy. Piled us up with tomatoes and a jar of his s raspberry jam. Kindness s of stranger.
Oh yeah.
NO WATER ON THE WAY TO DATE ON ANY OF OUR DAYS.
Stayed at the Daniere,s chambre dote just outside of Me Cergne. Warning. Google maps had u going up Lassy. IT IS WRONG.AND STEEP.. Continue o n main road and turn left up Poizat . I corrected google maps but who knows !Just what I didn't need after 20Ks. Phillips and Martine are a delight. Both are pellirines and were very welcoming. Dinner bed and breakfast for 70 E for a couple. Lovely,lovely people and their English was fluent.

Day 5. Mainly down and the easier day being o only 17K. We got bread and supplies from the boulangerie and epicirie. Superb views. Charlieu was booked out so paying n extortionate rate at the Relais Abbey hotel. Ah well. Tomorrow is a short day to Noilly and the fete is on. Late start is planned.
 
Charlieu to Chateau de la Mott. Easy peasy day. Flat . Followed the bicycle path for 6 plus K's then crossed the Loire. Wandered by the canal for a while then back into the fields. Abbey at Benisson Dieu has a fabulous roof and spire. Very pretty.
Finished at Chateau de la Motte. Which is a 200 metre detour off the trail NOT 1 plus K's.
What a find. If you can treat yourself to this it will be well worth it. Swedish couple Lillian and Henrik go out of their way to welcome you and entertain you. Dinner was a 4 course plus wine affair. A really , really nice stay.
Easy walking day but starting to feel effort if 9 kg pack. Will rest tomorrow. Couldn't pick nicer grounds than this 18 century restored lodge.
 
In trouble with one of our party having a knee injury. Rest day and then onto Haon Le Chatele. Nice town Expensive lodging. 106 E for a bed for two. Not much else unless u paid for it..PM if you want to avoid it. Lovely Heritage town, nothing open on Monday. Dinner at aforementioned chambre dote.
Next day was quite short. Nice chambre dote outside St Alban les Eaux. 97 E for demi pensionfor two. To walk there it was All flat , a bit boring but nice surrounding valleys to look at. Meeting French friends the next day so be glad to have intricacies of Marron versus chestnuts explained.
 

HaraldS

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2011-2017: Home(Germany) to SdC via Cologne-Taizé-Le Puy-Somport-Camino Aragones-Camino Frances
Oh yeah. STILL NO WATER EN ROUTE. FILL UP WHEN U CAN.
Well, every french graveyard has a water tap with fresh drinking water! Has rescued me several times under the burning sun...
 

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