charlotte19675
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2021
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@wisepilgrim Don't worry I can cope with being a hipsterSo I'm a bit late to this thread, but noticed that this question absolutely has an answer... at least for me. In the San Francisco barrio, a very colorful place for a stroll, is a restaurant called Peso Neto. It is small, but has never failed to impress me. Borderline hipster, but don't let that scare you away because the staff is gold.
It may be a very nice place, but the Hostal Moderno is unbeatable. It is no longer anything remotely related to Moderno (in contrast to El Cruce, with more of an Ikea-like look, and I don’t mean that in a snarky way — in fact, the bedspreads are just as dated as in the Moderno). Double room with breakfast in Cruce is 65, in Moderno (without breakfast) 40.I found a very positive reference to Hostal El Cruce in Cistierna
What I remember is that the off-road part out of Cistierna coincides with a number of off-road mountain bike trails. River nearby some of the time. If you took the video route on the road, it looks like you would not cross over the old bridge I pictured above as you leave Cistierna. It is a very nice bridge, and it has a historical plaque describing its importance, but hey, it’s a bridge.@peregrina2000 , i have been watching a video on youtube that shows the people walking this stage go straight from Cisitierna to La Ercina, so my question would be if I took the main road straight to La Ericna at just over 7km according to google map what am I missing by not following the guide book? is there anything worth seeing or could I save my length of walk by heading direct to La Ercina and then onto your overnight suggestion at Hotel Rural Monasterio de Ara-Mada?
I am looking forward to hearing from @AJGuillaume and seeing what he recommends.
If I am not supposed to add the youtube link then please edit my post.
Ooh, the pressure is on!I am looking forward to hearing from @AJGuillaume and seeing what he recommends.
The fact that both routes meet in La Ercina means that it all comes down to how far slow walkers are prepared to walk on that day. 12A gives us an 11.1 km day, and 12B yields a 13.8 km day.Ender’s guide shows two different routes from Cistierna, both of which meet up in La Ercina.
Personally, the longer option appeals to us, as we know the Romanesque churches will definitely make us forget the length of the stage.We could not find the way for the longer route, but @alansykes reported — “The new version of the Olvidado goes uphill to San Pedro de Foncallada, 1-2 km longer than the flatter version, but very pretty. And then the necessary 2-3 romanesque or later churches to keep you going.”
Or about 14 km beyond Cistierna if we take the longer route. Either way, this is a nice near mid-stage stopping point, as the distance to Boñar from La Ercina is the same in both cases, and is 16.6 km. That would give us two well balanced days.Option One. La Ercina
About 11 km beyond Cistierna is La Ercina, with an albergue. Tel 987 712 051/648 032 831.
11 km isn't too short for slow walkersOption Two. Santa Colomba.
If 11 km is too short, I think the slightly off-route Hotel Rural Monasterio de Ara-Mada looks very nice. It in the village of Santa Colomba de las Arrimadas,
The owners are actively involved in promoting the Camino Olvidado. Their website shows a map and describes a 15 minute walk from La Devesa to their hotel. This would be about a 22 km day.
I just wanted to throw out an option that might also work well for those who walk shorter stages —but it gets us into the stage after Boñar. Some might want to think about not stopping in Boñar. Walking from Ara-Mada to Boñar is about 8 km, and then going to Rañedo de Curueño would be another 8. Casa Rural El Canto del Gallo rents individual rooms and looks nice. (It would also make the Boñar to Vegacervera stage a more manageable 19, more on that later). That might make good sense for you, @charlotte19675, since you seem to be leaning towards the Ara-Mada.11 km isn't too short for slow walkers
I hadn't looked at going off Camino, and the suggestion to walk to Santa Colomba de las Arrimadas is a good one. The only downside is that it could make for an unbalanced breaking up of this stage. If we walked the longer path to La Ercina, we would have a 25 km walk (which could be more than what my darling would want to walk), leaving only about 7 km to Boñar.
I would add "into the stages", as after Boñar, it looks like there are two options spanning a few days. And which makes my spreadsheet look complicatedbut it gets us into the stage after Boñar
This gives indeed us a nice 16 km day's walk.Walking from Ara-Mada to Boñar is about 8 km, and then going to Rañedo de Curueño would be another 8.
I agree, it is an option with great merit. Although in our case, we would break the journey from Cistierna to Ara-Mada by staying in La Ercina: 22 km, or 25 km if we want to see the Romanesque churches, is just beyond my darling's limits.I just wanted to throw out an option that might also work well for those who walk shorter stages
@wisepilgrim lists this in La Losilla, about 3km short of Bonar:Stopping before Boñar — Here are two options, and maybe AJ or Charlotte19675 have come up with more!
I wrote in 2019 - Last night in the Moderno was excellent. A lovely meal and because I said I was leaving early and didn’t want breakfast she insisted in giving me some fruit and orange juice to take with me.So glad you are back and able to poke around on your OSM maps to fill us in with details of all the unknown treasures just a hop skip and a jump away!
It may be a very nice place, but the Hostal Moderno is unbeatable. It is no longer anything remotely related to Moderno (in contrast to El Cruce, with more of an Ikea-like look, and I don’t mean that in a snarky way — in fact, the bedspreads are just as dated as in the Moderno). Double room with breakfast in Cruce is 65, in Moderno (without breakfast) 40.
Wherever you sleep, though, do not miss the Moderno’s Menú del Día. It is extremely good home cooking, and is a step above the normal in terms of interesting variety. The people in Cistierna refer to it as the restaurant ”de toda la vida.” Meaning that it is something akin to a cherished institution.
Oh we are so spoiled when we walk the Olvidado. So many 5 star days that we start to feel like anything else is a disappointment!However, compared to the previous 2 magnificent days it seemed a little lacklustre. Don’t misunderstand me, it was a wonderful walk, just not memorable.
The second floor is for local elderly people with no place to live, and I believe the first floor is her own home. So it isn’t a particular pilgrim punishment, though I know what you mean about having to schlepp up those stairs when you think you have arrived!Now staying in Hostal Nisi which is a fine place. Really big and as always I ended up with a room on the top (3rd) floor!
We could not find the way for the longer route, but @alansykes reported — “The new version of the Olvidado goes uphill to San Pedro de Foncallada
There are a couple of pensiones in Boñar, but I have stayed only in the Nisi
The YouTube video was so beautiful. Thankyou for sharing it. Captions stayed onscreen long enough for me to comprehend@peregrina2000 , i have been watching a video on youtube that shows the people walking this stage go straight from Cisitierna to La Ercina, so my question would be if I took the main road straight to La Ericna at just over 7km according to google map what am I missing by not following the guide book? is there anything worth seeing or could I save my length of walk by heading direct to La Ercina and then onto your overnight suggestion at Hotel Rural Monasterio de Ara-Mada?
I am looking forward to hearing from @AJGuillaume and seeing what he recommends.
If I am not supposed to add the youtube link then please edit my post.
The YouTube video was so beautiful. Thankyou for sharing it. Captions stayed onscreen long enough for me to comprehendtoo. Such a pretty stage.
Gee ! Thanks for the info. I’ll have blitz of YouTubeYou know, Annie, this guy has one for every stage of the Olvidado. I haven't looked at them, but if you are itching to see what it looks like.....
I had already gotten there, because this is where my virtual walk ended yesterday.going to Rañedo de Curueño would be another 8. Casa Rural El Canto del Gallo rents individual rooms and looks nice.
I've followed this thread for a while and have noticed that they are difficulties when trying describe a location on the less travelled paths. I posted a thread just now over in the Misc thread with the GPS tag with a new method of using a location description that is easily understood by everyone. Search for "what3words" on the forum. It has been mentioned before.
Good idea. Now to get Ender to use it.Maybe those folks over at the very active Camino Olvidado thread might find this useful to document what exactly Enders means when he describes a location.
We stayed in the Hotel Inés, good value at 30 euros a double room and they do a good menú.Day 12. Cistierna to Boñar (28 km)
Ender’s guide shows two different routes from Cistierna, both of which meet up in La Ercina. We could not find the way for the longer route, but @alansykes reported — “The new version of the Olvidado goes uphill to San Pedro de Foncallada, 1-2 km longer than the flatter version, but very pretty. And then the necessary 2-3 romanesque or later churches to keep you going.”
Even on the “old route,” the first part of the walk is quite nice. When you go over the Río Esla right after leaving town the Vadiniense/Olvidado split is well marked. This is a mostly flat day as you transition from the mountains behind Cistierna over to the mountains behind Boñar.
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There is a dusty sunny downhill scrub brush part into Acisa that has both times been like a pin popping my balloon. Not sure why, but it gets me down. The first time I was alone, feeling lonely. The second time, I slid, fell, and ripped my pants! Luckily, my compañero Alun actually managed to catch me and prevent a worse result. As luck would have it, right on the outskirts of town after the descent, there is a welcoming shaded sitting area, where I have sat and regrouped both times. The first time, as I was sitting there in 2014, I got a phone call from @LTfit and it raised my spirits tremendously. And that was just the beginning, because in Boñar I had two sets of visitors! First came Rebekah with a picnic, and then Ender and wife show up for a drink. Talk about magic mood enhancers!
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There are a couple of pensiones in Boñar, but I have stayed only in the Nisi. The pensión rooms are on the top floor. On the floor below, the owner of the pensión offers rooms and care to old folks without resources or family. As I understand it, she uses the money from the pensión and restaurant below to support those who live there. She is no spring chicken herself, and is constantly on the go to take residents to doctor’s appointments, etc. All services available in Boñar.
Stopping before Boñar — Here are two options, and maybe AJ or Charlotte19675 have come up with more!
Option One. La Ercina
About 11 km beyond Cistierna is La Ercina, with an albergue. Tel 987 712 051/648 032 831.
La Ercina an ethnographic museum. It looks like a collection of old work implements, some from mining (along with a tribute to the “Ercina 14” who must be miners who died in the mines.
Since it is a rather short day, I did some hunting around to find ways to fill in the time, and it looks like there is a very nice route to visit some old castros (hill forts). Wikiloc shows several short routes — an 8 km circle. And this one with some nice photos of the views from the top.
Option Two. Santa Colomba.
If 11 km is too short, I think the slightly off-route Hotel Rural Monasterio de Ara-Mada looks very nice. It in the village of Santa Colomba de las Arrimadas,
The owners are actively involved in promoting the Camino Olvidado. Their website shows a map and describes a 15 minute walk from La Devesa to their hotel. This would be about a 22 km day.
I think Alan was there during the annual goat festival, but my memory is foggy and I hope he will fill us in. The town itself is kind of weird — lots of purpose-built small vacation row houses with no charm. The hotel on the river is one of the few buildings that looks like it belongs in a mountain village. The albergue, on the other side of the river, is in a nicer setting, IMO.Vegacervera is a happening place, with the unbeatable combination of geology and cuisine:
That's where we had thought we might stop on our first day on this stage. It's 9 km from Boñar, and 16 km from Hotel Monasterio Ara-Mada. Both options are good distances for us slow walkers.Valdepiélago, which is about another km on, has several Casas Rurales. One of them is for two people and shows a price of 75€.
But take a look at the elevation map in Ender’s English guide because there is a lot and it all starts after Valdepiélago.
Huffing and puffing it would be, and from Valdepiélago, it is 18.3 km. I know it will be a long day for one lovely darling slow walker... She'll do the first ascent without too many problems, it's early in the day. Not sure about the second ascent...It’s a huffing and puffing ascent — about 300 m in a kilometer or two, but if slow but steady works for you
Hopefully, if the huffing and puffing ascent was a bit too much, we could ask the owner to rescue my darling when she can't walk anymore?In Vegacervera, we stayed at the Albergue El Chaltén, whose owner is a real Camino supporter. [...] When the albergue is full, the owner will take pilgrims into his own home — he explained that he had promised Ender to take care of pilgrims and he will.
One can also take the FEVE line between Boñar and Valdepiélago. But then, if we're going to spend a night in Valdepiélago, why not walk?Now, for those who don’t want to undertake this stage in its entirety, but would like a glimpse of what is truly mountain glory, you could consider taking a taxi from Boñar to La Mata de la Bérbula
The only place to do that, I think, would be Correcillas. The screen shot shows both the road and the walk from Valdepiélago to Correcillas. Dotted blue is the road. Walking path is the thin turquoise line. After la Mata de Bérbula, you leave the road, which makes that second ascent inaccessible to cars. The descent to Correcillas is also nowhere near a road.Hopefully, if the huffing and puffing ascent was a bit too much, we could ask the owner to rescue my darling when she can't walk anymore?
It would be after Correcillas. It's only 7.5 km from Valdepiélago to Correcillas, which she would manage, including the two ascents. So I think she would run out of energy after Correcillas.The only place to do that, I think, would be Correcillas.
Is one of those villages with a reputation for beautyCorrecillas
Here is a wikiloc track from Correciĺas:Ermita de San Froilán
The second time I went that way I was determined to see the chapel, going vía the village of Valdorria, which Ender recommended as having a nice bar, where I stopped for a welcome pause. The ermita is then very easy to find, up a vertiginous narrow track cut from the rocks, with regular sheer drops on one side.Not too far away from the high point, there is also a little chapel, the Ermita de San Froilán. I have been unable to find instructions on how to get there from the Camino Olvidado.
AHHHHHHHH!!! I had spent a long time trying to find a way to connect the Olvidado to a spur trail up to the ermita, and not even my fancy primo Wikiloc map feature could help me out! So you went via Valdorria!The second time I went that way I was determined to see the chapel, going vía the village of Valdorria,
Yup, a very easy stroll to the village and then up to the Ermita, very well marked. Going back down to the feve station at Valdepiélago was less easy, going through quite dense woods on a path clearly not used very much, and then down by the spectacular Cola de Caballo de Nocedo waterfall.Did you descend to Valdorria from the spectacular vantage point at the intersection where my picture shows a sign saying Valdorria 2.8 km? And then back up to the ermita? And then where?
Interesting. I can't quite square the Wikiloc track I posted, and your track, Alan— even though both go via Valdorria. It will have to wait until I can open my computer.So you went via Valdorria!
Yup, a very easy stroll to the village and then up to the Ermita, very well marked. Going back down to the feve station at Valdepiélago was less easy, going through quite dense woods on a path clearly not used very much, and then down by the spectacular Cola de Caballo de Nocedo waterfall.
BINGO!Could one not go up as Alan did via Valdorria, then down (via the wikiloc track I posted in post 228 above) to Correciĺas?
I think spending an extra day is a great idea because this is really a beautiful area. But now I’m having trouble sorting this into two days. Where would you sleep on the first night after visiting the ermita?watching the you tube video for this camino, they seem to head straight up to Valdorria and not go via La Mata de la Berbula, but looking at your route notes the path after La Mata de la Berbula looks really nice. So if you could spend a couple of nights in the area you could do the road straight from Valdepiélago to Valdorria and visit the Ermita then the next day go back on the path to La Mata de la Berbula and onto Vegacervera.
Yes, that's whatcI came up with, too.Valdorria to Correcillas on the wikiloc track you posted, VN, is about 5 (???). Then add 11 to Vegacervera.
I count about 32 taking into account the 1.5 out and back to the ermita?so you would have either a 29 km (from Ranedo de Curueño
Ok, we’re getting close to rounding errors.Yes, that's whatcI came up with, too.
I count about 32 taking into account the 1.5 out and back to the ermita?
My mistake, sorry. I doubled that 1.5, thinking it was 1.5.out and 1.5 back. So, yes, right - provided it's 1.5 return, not 3.from Ranedo de Curueño?
I did that based on what I estimate from the wikiloc you posted, can you take a look and see if it looks right? I know that a 1.5 km error in terms of distance isn’t the end of the world, but here it is combined with some really serious elevation gain.My mistake, sorry. I doubled that 1.5, thinking it was 1.5.out and 1.5 back. So, yes, right - provided it's 1.5 return, not 3.
Yes, that seems about right. I double checked with thr OSMand map, which says it's about 500m one way. But I'm not sure exactly where to measure it from. So I think 1.5 is a decent conservative guess: far better to overestimate than underestimate!I did that based on what I estimate from the wikiloc you posted, can you take a look and see if it looks right?
or as an alternative by missing the path from La Meta I could take the train to Valdepiélago walk to Valdorria visit the Ermita and then head on to Vegacervera. I will miss the path from La Meta but I am sure the Ermita and walk onto Vegacervera will make up for it. Do we know if there are taxi services in Valdepielago? If there are we could use a taxi service to take us to Valdorria and then back to Valdepielago to sleep before heading on the next day to Vegacervera?I think spending an extra day is a great idea because this is really a beautiful area. But now I’m having trouble sorting this into two days. Where would you sleep on the first night after visiting the ermita?
Wow, that’s a beautiful watercolor. Are any more from the Olvidado?( I liked it so much I painted it as part of my ‘Camino’ selection of around 15 watercolours!).
My (perhaps confused) understanding is that the guys who walked from Boñar to Valdorria in order to see the water falls (they did not go to the ermita as far as I can see from that youtube) did rejoin the camino at the high point that you get to from La Mata de la Bérbula. They were on a road from Nocedo to Valdorria and then on a path up to the high point. Which is where they rejoin the Camino. I THINK.I will miss the path from La Meta but I am sure the Ermita and walk onto Vegacervera will make up for it.
My husband always tells me I would have been great at three different occupations — one as Napoleon’s taskmaster, two as a prairie pioneer wife in the 1800s, and three as the activities director on a cruise ship.@peregrina2000 thanks for checking that. I hope I am not causing too much trouble by trying to find ways to shorten stages for those of us who are not able to walk a full stage at present.
think my husband would say the same about me.My husband always tells me I would have been great at three different occupations — one as Napoleon’s taskmaster, two as a prairie pioneer wife in the 1800s, and three as the activities director on a cruise ship.
Working up stages of different lengths that help people see the options for endless enjoyment and beauty on the camino probably uses a combination of those skills.
With no way to break this up into two days, as there seems to be no accommodation in Valdorria (except for the casa rural in alojamiento entero mode) or Corecillas, this is too long for some slow walkers.Ranedo de Curueño to high point (10)
High point to Valdorria (2.8)
Valdorria to Ermita and back (1.5)
Valdorria to Correcillas (5)
Correcillas to Vegacervera (11)
30.3 from Ranedo de Curueño?
As we would spend a night in Valdepiélago, we would do the loop to the Ermita, and come back to Valdepiélago. As we would have 2 nights in Valdepiélago, we would be able to walk to the Ermita without our backpacks, which, given that:We could, I suppose do what you did and wind up back in Valdepiélago
would make the 13.4 km walk much more pleasant for my darling.it is combined with some really serious elevation gain
Ha! Pedant alert: 'pavement'. I notice, by the way, that MikeJS refers to 'tarmac'. so we all know where he's from. The following story has no relevance whatever to the camino, so feel free to ignore the digression, but many years ago we lived and worked in Ankara, Turkey. We were driving down to the coast one day when we passed a totally random set of traffic lights, in the middle of nowhere. The next thing we know, the road gets suddenly very, very wide and the road markings are very, very big. In fact, we had the distinct impression we were driving along the middle of an airport runway. After a kilometre or two, the road was back to normal, we passed another set of traffic lights, then a small town. When we got back home we asked our friends about this, mentioning the name of the town.. "Oh yes" they said, "that's the emergency runway, They close it off if a plane has to land". Mystery solved, but it raises an interesting language question, was the pavement tarmac? Or was the tarmac pavement? Cheers.Day 13. Boñar to Vegacervera (27 km)
In Boñar the camino splits and offers two options. One is typically walked in three stages and goes through mountains (Boñar-Vegacervera-Buiza- La Magdalena) and one is typically two stages and avoids the mountains (Boñar - La Robla - La Magdalena). I will start with the mountain route and then go back and review the alternative.
This is a totally gorgeous 5 star day, at least if you ignore the last 8 km or so, which is on the side of the road from Correcillas. Actually, even that last part is very pretty, no traffic at all, it’s just that it’s on pavement. In fact, the only car that we saw on that whole stretch was Ender’s, when he came out to check on us.
The walk is off road at the beginning, really pretty, up to the small town of La Mata de la Bérbula, where there is a café. From La Mata to Correcillas, it is only 6 km, but it is one of those jaw-dropping but steep ascents — as you huff and puff up, you suddenly arrive at the top and the view just spreads out in front of you. It is really spectacular, the valley you ascended is there behind you, and real mountain peaks in front of you. We soaked it in for a long long time.
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Not too far away from the high point, there is also a little chapel, the Ermita de San Froilán. I have been unable to find instructions on how to get there from the Camino Olvidado. All I see are routes going there from the town of Valdorria below. I hope @alansykes will be able to help us out here. On one of his walks, I know he did not go up to the ermita, but did photograph it from below. But he has also posted a picture from the ermita, so I am pretty certain he has actually walked up there on a return visit to the stage from Boñar.
Lots of shade and beautiful views on the descent, too!
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In Vegacervera, we stayed at the Albergue El Chaltén, whose owner is a real Camino supporter. The albergue is actually a group of cabins with bunks for about 12-16. There was a youth group there when we arrived, occupying about five of the cabins, and they put us in our own, away from all the excitement. It’s a very nice set-up. When the albergue is full, the owner will take pilgrims into his own home — he explained that he had promised Ender to take care of pilgrims and he will.
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There are other places in town, all in Ender’s guide. The Hotel Chousa Verde is supposed to give a good pilgrim rate, but @MikeJS was unable to get anything but a high priced room.
Ender took us to what is undoubtedly the best place to eat in this little town, kind of out of the way. The name is Mesón La Cocinona, and it is affiliated with a family-run embutidos factory. That may not be a ringing endorsement for vegetarians or vegans, however.
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For those who like yoghurt, I cannot recommend the Coladilla yoghurt enough. It is made in a hamlet of that name (you pass through on the camino about 2 km after Vegacervera). The young owners took over the family operation and decided to go “artisanal.” They make a goat milk yoghurt that is just unbelievable. Though there are no grocery stores in Vegacervera, a couple of the embutidos factories have little stores selling their sausages and dried meats, along with a few grocery items. We found some for sale, along with some fruit, chocolate and “frutos secos” in one of them.
Now, for those who don’t want to undertake this stage in its entirety, but would like a glimpse of what is truly mountain glory, you could consider taking a taxi from Boñar to La Mata de la Bérbula (16.5 km from Boñar). You will miss one of the ascents, but the views are not nearly as spectacular as the one after La Mata. It’s a huffing and puffing ascent — about 300 m in a kilometer or two, but if slow but steady works for you, consider this option. It would give you a day of about 12 kms, and after the big ascent, it is downhill (not too drastic an incline) and then pretty flat into Vegacervera.
There are also two towns with accommodations on this stage,
Ranedo de Curueño, about 8 km from Boñar, has a rural hotel,El Canto de Gallo.
Valdepiélago, which is about another km on, has several Casas Rurales. One of them is for two people and shows a price of 75€.
If you had stopped short of Boñar on the previous stage, in the Hotel Monasterio Ara-Mada, you would have a total of about 15 or 16 to one of those two places. That would mean a 20 km day to Vegacervera. But take a look at the elevation map in Ender’s English guide because there is a lot and it all starts after Valdepiélago.
Unfortunately, I think it was the only one from the Olvidado.Wow, that’s a beautiful watercolor. Are any more from the Olvidado?
AJ,As we would have 2 nights in Valdepiélago, we would be able to walk to the Ermita without our backpacks...
I like a bonus!I thnk that route will take you to the waterfalls also, so that’s a bonus!
Yes, but not via the Ermita, as we would take a separate day for that walk. I think it's 18 km from Valdepiélago to Vegacervera, without the side trip to the Ermita, according to Enders' guidebook.Are you thinking that you would walk from Valdepiélago to Vegacervera?
That is one option, and would also reduce the distance to just over 17 km. The other option is to get a ride into Vegacervera, some time after Correcillas, for example from Villalfeide.One suggestion I had was to get a ride up to Mata de Bérbula. If you look at the elevation profile, that avoids the first ascent. But it’s the second one that takes you to the spectacular views.
I am certainly no authority on this, but I would think that the owners of the place where you sleep are likely to be happy to help. There are no taxis that I know of at either end, but this is one of those places where flagging down a car is very likely to give you good results. Only problem with that strategy is that I am virtually certain that Ender’s car coming out to check up on us was the only car we saw between Correcillas and Villafeide.The question is: would it be easier to get a ride from Valdepiélago to La Mata de la Bérbula, or to get a ride from Villalfeide to Vegacervera?
The link ( png) doesn’t respond at all for me.For some reason I can't open the photos - The site says that I don't have permission.
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The link ( png) doesn’t respond at all for me.
For some reason I can't open the photos - The site says that I don't have permission.
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Yes, but not the mapCan you see the pictures now?
I can see the pictures. I just can’t make the link open / ending in .png (your addition of a map )Can you see the pictures now?
Yes, but not the map
Try again, fingers crossed.I can see the pictures. I just can’t make the link open / ending in .png (your addition of a map )
It worked!Try again, fingers crossed.
So am I correct that the thin turquoise line is the one with the rock challenge, and the dotted line is the road?
I have been looking at heaps of photos, I have poured over mapsYes, that’s right. What do you think?
I would go a little further and say that there is nothing on that descent that even qualifies as a path, it is just jagged rocks. You just have to pick your way little by little.
Satellite imagery shows a "path", even though it might not be recognisable on the ground. Where the video shows the "fuerte bajada", you can see a path in the foreground. That path is documented in OpenStreetMap.Go to about 3:37of this video, where the notation “fuerte bajada” flashes across the screen (steep descent). You can see how you have to pick over the rock.
We would certainly follow that recommendation. In addition, there is a condition sine qua non, which is that we won't even try if it is raining. It reminds me of our walk on the Norte, when we were going to try and go over the Monte Candina from Oriñon, just after Islares. When we heard the storm coming in the evening, we decided not to tempt fate, with wet rocks and the risk of slipping down to the Bay of Biscay below.What I would recommend is that you go out from Villar to the start of the descent — it’s very close to the road — and then judge for yourself. If it looks hairy, go back to Villar and take the 5 km road walk into La Vid de Gordón.
Having seen photos and videos, that reward makes the descent really worth it, provided the conditions are right.If you can take the descent, you will be rewarded by a stroll through the gorge at the bottom, a truly beautiful beech forest, and a chance to see some abandoned mines.
Day 14. Vegacervera to Buiza (16) or Pola de Gordón (24)
The slow walkers that we are, welcome a short stage,Once in Buiza, you can stay at the albergue there (but you should have food with you), or continue on the 7.5 km to Pola de Gordón.
Pola de Gordón to La Magdalena (23 km)
There is a very nice looking restaurante/mesón in the village, El Menadero, but it was closed.
Just adding some notes from the perspective of the slow walkers that we are. We would have stopped in Buiza, so we would break this stage into two days:Pola de Gordón to La Magdalena (23 km)
(or, if you sleep in Buiza, it’s 31 to La Magdalena)
Sounds like a nice place to stop for the night.Piedrasecha would be about a 20 km stage. It is a very cutesy town with lots of renovated old stone houses. There are two places there, both of which seem to have opportunities for individual room rentals. Los Calderones de Piedrasecha or El Castillo de Piedrasecha
This is another marvelous walking day. When you get up high, there are 360-degree views, and it is spectacular, uninhabited, wild.
As close to a perfect day as I've ever enjoyed
That would definitely make us think about taking the mountain route!Oh, boy. This looks 10-star!
The three occupations have a number of skill sets in common.....My husband always tells me I would have been great at three different occupations — one as Napoleon’s taskmaster, two as a prairie pioneer wife in the 1800s, and three as the activities director on a cruise ship.
Working up stages of different lengths that help people see the options for endless enjoyment and beauty on the camino probably uses a combination of those skills.
I did a wikiloc search using the fancy map search function and didn’t find any trails going that way. How did you come across that option, VN? And I have no idea what the muñecos are. You’ve managed to Stump the Chump!So has anyone tried this, as opposed to taking the direct way from Piedrasecha and La Magdalena)?
Oh, wow. I didn't think it possible.You’ve managed to Stump the Chump!
OSMand gave it to me. I cross-checked on Googlemaps with satellite view, and there does look to be a whole network of little paths in that area, but I am wondering if they are blocked by private property. But it would stay off-road, a blessing to both the feet and the spirit.How did you come across that option, VN?
OSMand is based on OpenStreetMap, which is the work of volunteers populating maps around the world. My son has been contributing for a few years, and has recently given me a tutorial. The maps are the work of local volunteers, or sometimes volunteers who know an area well. So these maps will include paths and trails that often will not appear in Google maps.OSMand gave it to me.
Ahhhhh. No wonder they are both detailed and sometimes delightfully quirky. If there's someone with interest they can populate the map, with trails - and mysterious muñecos.So these maps will include paths and trails that often will not appear in Google maps.
The link in your image points to the author. His pseudo in OSM is cronoser, and he goes by the name of @oscarzor on twitter (I don't have a twitter account to check that).The 1st one to get to piedrasecha, please ask a local , "WTH?"
View attachment 99627
I. Am. In. Awe.And guess who entered all the other symbols in OSMand around Piedrasecha? Yep, he did
I searched Wikilocs for any trails going to the muñeco, to no avail. I even searched Youtube in case someone had a video from PiedrasechaAnd perhaps he would know if there is a 'back way' to La Magdalena.
That would split this stage into two nearly even days, with about 19 km to walk from there to La RoblaAbout 14 km from Boñar — The albergue in Aviados, Albergue Fuente de Oso. They have confirmed via WhatsApp that they take in pilgrims for a night, but reserve in advance. Tel. +34 666 60 58 35
This is also a good option, with about 13 km to La Robla.About 20 from Boñar — The online Camino Olvidado website lists a hotel in Robles de la Valcueva, the Hotel Rural el Arriero. No website that I can find, though it does come up on google maps.
So it’s a pretty heavy on-road day.
Methinks it would be the mountain option...I will be interested to hear which one people think they will choose.
There aren't any photos, but cronoser has sent me a message:His pseudo in OSM is cronoser, and he goes by the name of @oscarzor on twitter (I don't have a twitter account to check that).
I have sent him a message to find out if he has photos of these mysterious muñecos.
Hello; I was one weekend on Piedrasecha and walking around the hamlet, I’d found several rural esculpture that the people of there called muñecos, muñeco is spanish is a toy with human form. Best regards Óscar
The internet can be a miraculous place.There aren't any photos, but cronoser has sent me a message
We'll see!I will be interested to hear which one people think they will choose
That sucks. Did you get the sense that this was a regular policy, or was it just a spineless hospitalero who couldn't say no?Soon after I got to the albergue, a taxi dropped a bunch of packs off at the albergue. Shockingly, the hospitalero let them reserve beds
What kind of albergue was it? Was it a pilgrim albergue or just a normal walker's albergue/youth hostel? If the latter, they can and do take reservations. If private, they can and do take reservations. The rule that pilgrim albergues do not take reservations is probably more of a convention. I assume the Xunta de Galicia makes it a rule in their albergues, but I don't know for sure. Although the various associations, fraternities and local authorities come together and try to get consensus on this kind of thing, I don't think there is any over-riding authority that can tell albergues what they can and cannot do, and you'd be surprised how many hospitaleros make their own rules. But it does suck though.The internet can be a miraculous place.
Now we know.
Gracias, AJ!
We'll see!
My natural druthers would be mountains. But if walking alone I would be quite cautious were the weather looking the least bit dodgy.
So it's great to be able to go into detail here about both options.
That sucks. Did you get the sense that this was a regular policy, or was it just a spineless hospitalero who couldn't say no?
It was a rule or a practice, that Xunta albergues would not accept reservations. In the last year, the Xunta launched an online reservation system, so the culture has changed. It probably makes sense during a pandemic when capacity needs to be closely managed, but I think that this was planned before the current crisis. I guess there are upsides and downsides to it. It gives reassurance to slow walkers ... but it dilutes the "spontaneity" of the camino; the idea that I might walk to a specified spot today but if the mood takes me, I'll carry on.I assume the Xunta de Galicia makes it a rule in their albergues, but I don't know for sure.
It depends how far ahead they take reservations. If it's for the next day, I can see that working. The only problem is that it would work very much in the favour of people who speak Spanish as the majority of hospitaleros are local and might not speak English (or any other language than Spanish). If municipal albergues are taking reservations for weeks in the future, that could create real problems if people change their minds or don't turn up.It was a rule or a practice, that Xunta albergues would not accept reservations. In the last year, the Xunta launched an online reservation system, so the culture has changed. It probably makes sense during a pandemic when capacity needs to be closely managed, but I think that this was planned before the current crisis. I guess there are upsides and downsides to it. It gives reassurance to slow walkers ... but it dilutes the "spontaneity" of the camino; the idea that I might walk to a specified spot today but if the mood takes me, I'll carry on.
La Robla’s albergue is municipally owned. This one. It is mainly for those walking the Salvador, but this branch of the Olvidado crosses it as well.What kind of albergue was it?
Not sure if booking by phone will be possible since the albergues are often unattended through most of the day. The booking website is available in English, Spanish, and Galego. While this disadvantages speakers of other languages, I hope that most people will be able to work out how to deal with it.The only problem is that it would work very much in the favour of people who speak Spanish as the majority of hospitaleros are local and might not speak English (or any other language than Spanish).
A stage made for slow walkers!Day 14 bis — La Robla to La Magdalena (16 km)
And we like perfect days!a stop in La Magdalena makes for a perfect shorter day.
I downloaded the two GPX tracks on my laptop, and then used a program to load both and compare. There seems to be less road walking (pavement walking or tarmac walking
Have you heard anything about the Albergue Juvenil Arbejal? It is on the south side of town, down by the river.Unfortunately, the Albergue Turístico Rivera del Pisuerga has closed permanently.
Have you heard anything about the Albergue Juvenil Arbejal? It is on the south side of town, down by the river.
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