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Ebro and Soriano

Jakke

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Several in Poland, Finland, Portugal and Spain
Did the Via Verda steal the Camino's thunder?

This old peregrino has been walking along the Rio Ebro to Soria and the Parque del Rio Lobos.

As you can guess, it was a trip full of surprises, a burnt neck, Camino angels, looong stages, difficulties and blessings.

I began in Tortosa, from which I followed the Ebro Westward. In the bus to Tortosa I met a gentlemen, who was otherwise well informed about the Camino, but did not know a camino went right through his hometown - Tortosa.

Fletchas and conchas are few and far between. Instead, the Via Verda GR and other caminos are well publicised. Pity. Since I did not meet other peregrinos, it felt like I was not on a real camino.

The nuns at the Albergue Enric d'Osso were super friendly and helpful. The oranges from their orchard were great.

It was often very hard to get stamps. For example in Benifallet you are given a code to a little box where you'll find a key to your room. You meet nobody. In Zaragoza there is one central place to get a stamp and even shop owners know about that and refer you to it.

In Zaragoza I fell down a flight of stairs and broke a rib. One of my sons walked with me from Soria to the marvelous Parque Cañon del Rio Lobos.

The lack of any kind of transportation during the weekend from Ucero until late Sunday afternoon, combined with no free beds anywhere North of the Parque meant we had to stay three nights in Ucero. That turned out to be a blessing in disguise. There was plenty to see.

Special was also the staff of Hotel El Balcón del Cañon, who noticed my painful back. They went well above and beyond to be helpful. Great place.

April was this year a good month for a camino. I recommend the Via Verda (old railroad turned into a good path) and the Soriano. Just remember that "the more you put into it, the more you'll get out of it" as a camino. Prepare well.

Buen camino!
 
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P.S. Be ready to wade through the Rio Lobos (a few centimeters).
 
I followed the Camino up the Ebro and then to Soria about 8 years ago. It's extraordinary. I love the backroads Caminos and they are an extraordinary introduction to the old Spain, far away from tourists. You are correct that many don't even know that there is a Camino there.

For those of us who are sellomaniacs, I suggest in descending order--1) the parish church-- either after the mass, or by asking around for the keyholder, who may have the sello, 2) the ayuntamiento, 3) the police stations, 4) the Centro de Salud, 5) the Correos, 6) any bar or hostal, 7) the farmacia or any business. Spain is a sello-society.

I hope that you feel better and can continue with this wonderful part of Spain.
 
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