Embarking on the Portuguese Camino in March 2022 after years of cancelled flights

[Jaime Byrd]

After 5 attempts at booking flights and having them all cancelled over the last 2 years, my husband and I are finally feeling positive about this next one and getting on the Portuguese Camino! I have walked a portion in southern France in 2018 and this will be my husbands first time. Since we will be in Portugal for 6 weeks, we are allowing the weather to help determine our actual start date. However, it's most likely we'll begin sometime between March 15th and March 20th. We will keep our eyes open on who is starting when. We are also planning to start from Coimbra, Portugal but that could change as well.

Thank you for all the support and info I've received on this forum! It has been incredibly helpful in so many ways!

Jaime

 

[Flog]

Fingers crossed that you'll make it this time! But can I ask, is there a particular reason why you want to start in Coimbra? The few days after Coimbra towards Porto aren't the nicest part of the way - there is a lot of asphalt, concrete and industrial areas. But starting a few days further south from the beautiful town of Tomar, the way to Coimbra is among the nicest.. in my view anyway..

 

[jungleboy]

Fingers crossed that you'll make it this time! But can I ask, is there a particular reason why you want to start in Coimbra? The few days after Coimbra towards Porto aren't the nicest part of the way - there is a lot of asphalt, concrete and industrial areas. But starting a few days further south from the beautiful town of Tomar, the way to Coimbra is amongst the nicest.. in my view anyway..

I agree on both those points.

 

[Jaime Byrd]

Fingers crossed that you'll make it this time! But can I ask, is there a particular reason why you want to start in Coimbra? The few days after Coimbra towards Porto aren't the nicest part of the way - there is a lot of asphalt, concrete and industrial areas. But starting a few days further south from the beautiful town of Tomar, the way to Coimbra is among the nicest.. in my view anyway..

Thanks for that info!! We will reconsider! We were just planning on spending a few days in Coimbra and then thought that was a good place to start. We have changed our minds on where to start several times and will probably do so again even more times.

 

[Jaime Byrd]

I agree on both those points.

Where would you suggest starting, Jungleboy? I know you live in Portugal, so would love your take on this. We have no particular preference. Thanks!

 

[jungleboy]

We were just planning on spending a few days in Coimbra and then thought that was a good place to start.

You are right in that Coimbra is a really nice town and worth exploring, it's just the post-Coimbra trail that is not the best.

Where would you suggest starting, Jungleboy? I know you live in Portugal, so would love your take on this. We have no particular preference. Thanks!

It depends on a few factors but with six weeks, you have a lot of time so that gives you more options. If you are OK to take transport and want to experience the best parts of the CP and not some of the less interesting parts, then I suggest this plan: arriving in Lisbon and spending a few days there, taking the train to Santarém and spending half a day there, walking Santarém-Coimbra (about 7-8 stages, with maybe a rest day in Tomar) and taking a rest day in Coimbra, taking transport ahead to Porto, taking a sightseeing day or two in Porto, and then walking Porto-Santiago by whichever route you choose. This eliminates the Lisbon-Santarém and Coimbra-Porto sections of the camino, which I found the least interesting (and others mostly tend to agree).

If you prefer to walk continuously, then you could start in Santarém or Tomar and a couple of days after Coimbra you can deviate via Albergue Moinho Garcia to the coast for what I'm told is a nicer last couple of days into Porto. Or there's nothing wrong with starting in Lisbon and experiencing it all for yourself! It took us 32 days Lisbon-Santiago (via central/VE from Porto) so that's well within your timeframe.

For more ideas of what the CP has to offer, here are two of my articles:
Portuguese Way Highlights
Best Portuguese Way Experiences

 

[Jaime Byrd]

You are right in that Coimbra is a really nice town and worth exploring, it's just the post-Coimbra trail that is not the best.


It depends on a few factors but with six weeks, you have a lot of time so that gives you more options. If you are OK to take transport and want to experience the best parts of the CP and not some of the less interesting parts, then I suggest this plan: arriving in Lisbon and spending a few days there, taking the train to Santarém and spending half a day there, walking Santarém-Coimbra (about 7-8 stages, with maybe a rest day in Tomar) and taking a rest day in Coimbra, taking transport ahead to Porto, taking a sightseeing day or two in Porto, and then walking Porto-Santiago by whichever route you choose. This eliminates the Lisbon-Santarém and Coimbra-Porto sections of the camino, which I found the least interesting (and others mostly tend to agree).

If you prefer to walk continuously, then you could start in Santarém or Tomar and a couple of days after Coimbra you can deviate via Albergue Moinho Garcia to the coast for what I'm told is a nicer last couple of days into Porto. Or there's nothing wrong with starting in Lisbon and experiencing it all for yourself! It took us 32 days Lisbon-Santiago (via central/VE from Porto) so that's well within your timeframe.

For more ideas of what the CP has to offer, here are two of my articles:
Portuguese Way Highlights
Best Portuguese Way Experiences

This is fantastic info and advice! We are not needing to walk continuously, so we will look into your suggestion of walking Santarém-Coimbra and then getting to Porto. Thanks again for taking the time to write this out for me!!

 

[HaveringRob]

You are right in that Coimbra is a really nice town and worth exploring, it's just the post-Coimbra trail that is not the best.


It depends on a few factors but with six weeks, you have a lot of time so that gives you more options. If you are OK to take transport and want to experience the best parts of the CP and not some of the less interesting parts, then I suggest this plan: arriving in Lisbon and spending a few days there, taking the train to Santarém and spending half a day there, walking Santarém-Coimbra (about 7-8 stages, with maybe a rest day in Tomar) and taking a rest day in Coimbra, taking transport ahead to Porto, taking a sightseeing day or two in Porto, and then walking Porto-Santiago by whichever route you choose. This eliminates the Lisbon-Santarém and Coimbra-Porto sections of the camino, which I found the least interesting (and others mostly tend to agree).

If you prefer to walk continuously, then you could start in Santarém or Tomar and a couple of days after Coimbra you can deviate via Albergue Moinho Garcia to the coast for what I'm told is a nicer last couple of days into Porto. Or there's nothing wrong with starting in Lisbon and experiencing it all for yourself! It took us 32 days Lisbon-Santiago (via central/VE from Porto) so that's well within your timeframe.

For more ideas of what the CP has to offer, here are two of my articles:
Portuguese Way Highlights
Best Portuguese Way Experiences

Thanks for the help. I was looking at starting in Coimbra, but after listening to your podcast, I reconsidered. Your suggestions are very helpful. Can I ask your opinion on the best route to see Roman roads on the Portuguese Way?

 

[jungleboy]

Thanks for the help. I was looking at starting in Coimbra, but after listening to your podcast, I reconsidered. Your suggestions are very helpful. Can I ask your opinion on the best route to see Roman roads on the Portuguese Way?

Thank you for your kind words!

As to your question, these are the Roman roads I noted on the CP (in chronological order):

• There is a Roman road on the stage after Azambuja.
• Between Ansião and Rabaçal, there are traces of a Roman road.
• After São João da Madeira, there's a short stretch of a Roman road.
• On the stage into Porto, there is a significant stretch of a Roman road in an atmospheric forest that I described as 'easily the longest, best preserved and most interesting stretch of Roman road on this camino so far'.
• Between Redondela to Pontevedra, there's a Roman road with chariot ruts.
• On the final day from Padrón to Santiago, there's a nice section of Roman road.

If you're massively into Roman roads, then you might consider the Caminho da Geira e dos Arrieiros from Braga to Santiago, because days 2 and 3 are mostly on the Roman road. It's not the best preserved section of Roman road you'll see in terms of the actual stones but it's famous for its Roman milestones.

Finally, the best preserved stretch of Roman road I've seen in Portugal is leading out of Guarda near the end of the Caminho Nascente. Most of the first 7kms of that stage are on a Roman switchback mountain road.

 

[Dilbin]

After 5 attempts at booking flights and having them all cancelled over the last 2 years, my husband and I are finally feeling positive about this next one and getting on the Portuguese Camino! I have walked a portion in southern France in 2018 and this will be my husbands first time. Since we will be in Portugal for 6 weeks, we are allowing the weather to help determine our actual start date. However, it's most likely we'll begin sometime between March 15th and March 20th. We will keep our eyes open on who is starting when. We are also planning to start from Coimbra, Portugal but that could change as well.

Thank you for all the support and info I've received on this forum! It has been incredibly helpful in so many ways!

Jaime

Hi folks. I started in Coimbra and walked up from there. Its only 3 weeks to Santiago and 4 if you continue to Finnistere. Any questions feel free to ask and Buen Camino. Daniel

 

[jiggy]

After 5 attempts at booking flights and having them all cancelled over the last 2 years, my husband and I are finally feeling positive about this next one and getting on the Portuguese Camino! I have walked a portion in southern France in 2018 and this will be my husbands first time. Since we will be in Portugal for 6 weeks, we are allowing the weather to help determine our actual start date. However, it's most likely we'll begin sometime between March 15th and March 20th. We will keep our eyes open on who is starting when. We are also planning to start from Coimbra, Portugal but that could change as well.

Thank you for all the support and info I've received on this forum! It has been incredibly helpful in so many ways!

Jaime

We are starting March 17 from Porto. Why are you starting from Coimbra?

 

[HaveringRob]

Thank you for your kind words!

As to your question, these are the Roman roads I noted on the CP (in chronological order):

• There is a Roman road on the stage after Azambuja.
• Between Ansião and Rabaçal, there are traces of a Roman road.
• After São João da Madeira, there's a short stretch of a Roman road.
• On the stage into Porto, there is a significant stretch of a Roman road in an atmospheric forest that I described as 'easily the longest, best preserved and most interesting stretch of Roman road on this camino so far'.
• Between Redondela to Pontevedra, there's a Roman road with chariot ruts.
• On the final day from Padrón to Santiago, there's a nice section of Roman road.

If you're massively into Roman roads, then you might consider the Caminho da Geira e dos Arrieiros from Braga to Santiago, because days 2 and 3 are mostly on the Roman road. It's not the best preserved section of Roman road you'll see in terms of the actual stones but it's famous for its Roman milestones.

Finally, the best preserved stretch of Roman road I've seen in Portugal is leading out of Guarda near the end of the Caminho Nascente. Most of the first 7kms of that stage are on a Roman switchback mountain road.

Thank you so very much. Now I have to research and think some more. Such good suggestions! I appreciate the expertise and your willingness to share what you know.

 

[CaptainBonnie]

After 5 attempts at booking flights and having them all cancelled over the last 2 years, my husband and I are finally feeling positive about this next one and getting on the Portuguese Camino! I have walked a portion in southern France in 2018 and this will be my husbands first time. Since we will be in Portugal for 6 weeks, we are allowing the weather to help determine our actual start date. However, it's most likely we'll begin sometime between March 15th and March 20th. We will keep our eyes open on who is starting when. We are also planning to start from Coimbra, Portugal but that could change as well.

Thank you for all the support and info I've received on this forum! It has been incredibly helpful in so many ways!

Jaime

Buen Camino Jaime!
I am undecided between Camino Portuguese or Camino Del Norte after Easter 2022; either Camino would kick off from Lisbon or Irun.
Very Warm Wishes
Captain Bonnie ( Vivek)
Sweden - India

 

[Jaime Byrd]

We are starting March 17 from Porto. Why are you starting from Coimbra?

We have changed our mind based on the information in this thread via jungleboy. We will probably get transportation from Coimbra to Porto and walk from Porto also.

 

[HaveringRob]

We have changed our mind based on the information in this thread via jungleboy. We will probably get transportation from Coimbra to Porto and walk from Porto also.

We might see you there!

 

[Debi Baker]

So glad I spent two nights in Tomar. The castle was wonderful. I walked from Lisbon to Santiago in September and did eliminate the two sections suggested. Also don't skip Porto with the walking tours and Port wine tour. Worth every penny is costs!

 

[HaveringRob]

So glad I spent two nights in Tomar. The castle was wonderful. I walked from Lisbon to Santiago in September and did eliminate the two sections suggested. Also don't skip Porto with the walking tours and Port wine tour. Worth every penny is costs!

we did a "free" walking tour in Porto. There is no set fee, but people donate. I was a little shocked at how few people did donate. It is an inexpensive way to get a feel for the highlights of a place. You can find one in almost any city.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Yes do take the “donativo” walking tour and learn A LOT about this delightful city. Also consider a two day kayak trip down the Douro River and learn A LOT MORE about this area. Google Portugal kayak. There are several guides.

 

[HaveringRob]

Thank you for your kind words!

As to your question, these are the Roman roads I noted on the CP (in chronological order):

• There is a Roman road on the stage after Azambuja.
• Between Ansião and Rabaçal, there are traces of a Roman road.
• After São João da Madeira, there's a short stretch of a Roman road.
• On the stage into Porto, there is a significant stretch of a Roman road in an atmospheric forest that I described as 'easily the longest, best preserved and most interesting stretch of Roman road on this camino so far'.
• Between Redondela to Pontevedra, there's a Roman road with chariot ruts.
• On the final day from Padrón to Santiago, there's a nice section of Roman road.

If you're massively into Roman roads, then you might consider the Caminho da Geira e dos Arrieiros from Braga to Santiago, because days 2 and 3 are mostly on the Roman road. It's not the best preserved section of Roman road you'll see in terms of the actual stones but it's famous for its Roman milestones.

Finally, the best preserved stretch of Roman road I've seen in Portugal is leading out of Guarda near the end of the Caminho Nascente. Most of the first 7kms of that stage are on a Roman switchback mountain road.

@jungleboy -- When you said that there is a nice stretch of Roman road leading into Porto, do you mean the stage from Sao Joao da Madeira or a different starting point?

 

[jungleboy]

@jungleboy -- When you said that there is a nice stretch of Roman road leading into Porto, do you mean the stage from Sao Joao da Madeira or a different starting point?

That would be a long day from SJdM, but yes, that stage. We broke up that stage off-camino at Mar Dentro Surf Farm, and once we rejoined the path, the Roman stretch was shortly afterwards.