First Camino April 2009

[colinPeter]

Hello All,

Yes the tickets are booked!

My wife (Helen) & I (Col) are setting out from SJPP on Friday 17th April 2009.
We are planning to spend a couple of nights in St Jean, prior to starting.
We are from Sydney, Australia and have travelled in Europe in our "hippie" days (so now you know our age) & then again as "cashed up tourists" (if that's possible on the Australian dollar) several years back. But we are so.... excited about doing the Camino.

Trying to pick up all the hints we can. Been reading this forum for some time now, and found it very helpful.

Hope to catch up with "someone" on the road.

Col

 

[Deirdre]

Hi Col & Helen,
Welcome to becoming "posters" to the forum in addition to being "readers"! Clearly there is a wealth of information to be found here ...... on nearly every topic imaginable concerning the Camino(s)! Additionally so many people can answer (from experience) any specific questions you may have. Enjoy your planning and preparation.
Buen Camino,

 

[jl]

....and welcome to yet another pair from the "great southland!" Enjoy your research and planning. Regards, Janet

 

[sillydoll]

How wonderful that you can walk in spring! When the weather is good, it will be spectacular with wild flowers, bright green fields, cool mornings and nights but warm days.
But, you could also have some really freezing weather with snow, sleet and rain. Although the spring weather is unpredictable, you could check the April and May posts for this year and last year to give you some idea of what mother nature might throw at you and how to prepare for all eventualities.
When starting from St Jean LISTEN to the locals - if they tell you not to take the Route Napoleon because of impending bad weather, don't. If you walk the road route, don't follow any of the camino signs that point you off the road and onto trails.
Take a cell phone - it could save your life, as it did with the 3 Italians who were caught in a blizzard crossing from St Jean in April last year. They were able to call the emergency number and were rescued - unlike the English pilgrim who became separated from them and died after becoming lost in the snow just 50m from a road.
112 is the Europe-wide emergency number. It works even if you have no money in a prepaid mobile phone or even if your supplier has no network. It works 24/7 365 days - and the operators speak many languages.
Make sure your rain gear is waterproof. There was a lot of rain this year which resulted in muddy conditions with minor flooding that closed some of the traditional paths.
If you are from a tropical part of Aus and are not used to cold weather, take thermal underwear and gloves. I walked in early May 2002 and nearly died from cold some days - especially in the high places. And then got my nose sunburned in other places!

I have a Winter Walking on the Camino post on my blog - some of the videos and pictures are from March and April.

Happy planning!

 

[colinPeter]

Thanks All,

For the warm welcome & much appreciated advice.
We are preparing for "cold" & have decided that as much as we want to walk the "high route", we wont unless recommended by Pilgrim Office @ SJPP.
Have the phone & emergency blanket, but until now, not the Europe-wide emergency number (112).

Again thanks to all.

Colin & Helen

 

[vjpulver]

I am heading off in late April too - since I am relying on military HOPs (I am retired US Air Force and Space Available is a perk for retirees) to get me to Spain, my start date is a bit open-ended.

I am concerned about the snow in the upper ranges at the start so I am actually considering just starting in Pamplona rather than closer to the French border.

I am looking forward to life on the Camino during the merry month of May!

"Ginn"
In Sunny Santa Fe

 

[WolverineDG]

re: the Valcarlos Route--the first camino sign takes you off the main road & onto another one that has much less traffic on it. However, once that angles back to the main road at Arneguy, (I think), stay on the main road. If you're too tired by the time you get to Valcarlos, there are places to stay (I stayed at Casa Marcelino & had dinner there that night). Sello is available at "city hall," the building with the green cross on it (pharmacy sign)

Kelly

 

[colinPeter]

Hi Ginn,

Yes, snow on the mountains might be hard to forcast this far out.
We plan not to be to brave or stupid and will look for local advice when we get to SJPP.
Good luck with your flights.

Hi Kelly,

Thanks for the information on the Valcarlos Route.

Col

 

[viajero]

HI Ginn,
I started in Roncesvalles in early March of this year. The day before I left, on this site, I saw pictures of snow in Roncesvalles and was a little concerned. After reading the suggestions of those who posted here, I decided that I'd decide when I got there. I flew into Pamplona as planned and went to the bus station. The young woman working at the bus station information desk checked the weather for me and said that although it had snowed, she didn't think it would be a problem. Based on that, and suggestions that I could walk on the main road (instead of the Camino proper) in the event of snow, I went ahead by bus to Roncesvalles. I'm glad I did as walking into mass that evening in Roncesvalles with the snow falling overhead was a really beautiful sight. The next morning I started from Roncesvalles on the main road and about half way to Larrasoana, as the snow depth decreased, I got back on the Camino. For me, playing it by ear worked out well. Those who I met who had walked the previous day from SJPP had walked on the main road from there to Roncesvalles. I'm sure that wherever you start, you will have a wonderful experience.

 

[sillydoll]

One consolation for those who might have to walk the on the road is that the 'Val Carlos' (Valley of Charlemagne) route is one of the historical routes through the Pyrenees bound up with the Charlemagne legend - not just a modern road alternative.
Tradition tells us that it was in this valley that Charlemagne's troops camped after their defeat in the battle of Roncesvalles. There is no evidence left of the important pilgrim hospice that used to provide shelter to pilgrims in the ancient village of Valcarlos.
In Millán Bravo Lozano's guide he says:

In Amimery Picaud's day, the latter (Valcarlos) route was most often taken. The parish church of Valcarlos is dedicated to St James and was the site of a pilgrim's hospice dependent on the Monastery of Roncesvalles.

I would just like to reiterate what Kelly said, if the weather is bad do NOT take any of the off-trail options indicated by the camino signs. Stay on the road the whole way.

 

[WolverineDG]

And even if the weather is good, once you get back to the main road at Arneguy, DO NOT take any of the off-road options on the Valcarlos route. They are not well-maintained & are quite dangerous.

The first way-mark out of SJPdP leads you to a country road that is paved, but not highly traveled, so it is okay to follow that route marker in all weather

Kelly

 

[agavey]

Re:Introduction

Good Day All

I am planning to do part of the French Pilgrimage in two years. I have family in France. I will be going to my Godchilds 1st communion and then do the trek. I have a dear freind who just did part of the pilgrimage in September of this year, so I'm trying to convince her to do it again. I would love to talk to anyone who has done any of the French stages. I'm looking to do central to souther France.

Anne

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Anne,
I walked from Le Puy to SJPP (then onto Spain) in spring this year. I have put a blog online that has some photos and brief commentary from the experience, and it is listed below. Perhaps it will give you some ideas. The section of the route from Le Puy to Conques I found especially beautiful. Feel free to PM me with any queries anytime. jl (Janet) has also walked the Le Puy route, and I know she is only too willing to help with ideas.
Margaret

 

[jl]

Yes Anne, I am happy to chat to anyone who wants help. I try not to clog up the forum by posting too many times (the problem is that once I start typing I seem to go on forever) and usually by the time I get to see the day's postings others have replied so I leave it to them. I walked from Le Puy in 2007 - August early Sept. The biggest problem at that time is the heat and humidity but an early start and allowing plenty of time for breaks seems to get over the problem. (for someone from such a dry climate as Adelaide it is VERY humid!). I had no probelm with the crowds - they were always friendly and helpful, and although it was "crowded" for France, by Sapnish Camino Frances standards it wasn't. I just booked Gites for the next day or so, depending where I was - with the help of the tourist office. Let me know if there is anything else you want to know, Regards, Janet

 

[sillydoll]

Hola peregrina-Anne,
The Via Turonensis is the route from Paris to Spain. It is flat - really flat - for most of the way until you reach the southern hills.
I walked this route in 2004 and Gareth walked it (starting in England) earlier this year.

 

[agavey]

Anne,
I walked from Le Puy to SJPP (then onto Spain) in spring this year. I have put a blog online that has some photos and brief commentary from the experience, and it is listed below. Perhaps it will give you some ideas. The section of the route from Le Puy to Conques I found especially beautiful. Feel free to PM me with any queries anytime. jl (Janet) has also walked the Le Puy route, and I know she is only too willing to help with ideas.
Margaret

Thank you for your blof. The pictures and the narrative wer wonderful. I am in the early planning of the trip and welcome any and all help, tips, pointers, hints etc...

 

[agavey]

Yes Anne, I am happy to chat to anyone who wants help. I try not to clog up the forum by posting too many times (the problem is that once I start typing I seem to go on forever) and usually by the time I get to see the day's postings others have replied so I leave it to them. I walked from Le Puy in 2007 - August early Sept. The biggest problem at that time is the heat and humidity but an early start and allowing plenty of time for breaks seems to get over the problem. (for someone from such a dry climate as Adelaide it is VERY humid!). I had no probelm with the crowds - they were always friendly and helpful, and although it was "crowded" for France, by Sapnish Camino Frances standards it wasn't. I just booked Gites for the next day or so, depending where I was - with the help of the tourist office. Let me know if there is anything else you want to know, Regards, Janet

Thank you for the info. What are your thoughts about a women doing this alone, just in case I can't convince my friend to do it again?

 

[KiwiNomad06]

I walked from Le Puy as a woman alone, and loved it! There are fewer people on the Le Puy route than in Spain, but in some ways I felt the 'community' feel of the walk in France was stronger. It seemed to me that people knew who I was, knew I was walking alone, and watched out for me. There are a lot of French people walking this route, and many of them are walking during their vacations for just a week or two. I would make some great friendships on the road, but then have to say goodbye!

One thing all walkers need to be aware of walking the Le Puy route in terms of safety is that there are fewer walkers on the route, and if you start a bit later in the day, or from a smaller place, you might not see too many others.

Margaret

 

[cecelia]

Hi Col and Helen - and others,
As others have said, April is an unpredictable month but so beautiful. My first camino in 2003 I left SJPP on April 8th and, since I had arrived from Biarritz on the train that day, I stayed at Huntto ( 5 or 6 km out of SJPP) overnight. Then crossed over the Napoleon route on the 9th - an beautiful sunny day with no snow on the ground. In 2006, I crossed again with friends on April 20th with no problems. In 2007 I left SJPP on the 13th and stayed overnight at Orisson. On the morning of the 14th the host at Orisson said there was too much snow to go over the Route Napoleon (about 2 feet he said in some spots) and so I backtracked a bit to travel via the lower Valcarlos route. Spring is unpredictable in this part of the world ( I'm from Canada so it's not new) but all the budding and flowering is definitely worth it.

The only small disadvantage is that you have to plan for both cold and heat as you will probably get both. We had snow and freezing just west of Leon and then a day or two later the unprepared got really bad sunburns. Think about dressing in thin, light layers so you can adapt to whatever weather you get.... and there will almost certainly be some rain and there will definitely be mud past your ankles in several spots even though unfortunately, more and more of the Camino Frances is being paved over.

Enjoy your preparation and muy buen camino.
cecelia

 

[jl]

Thank you for the info. What are your thoughts about a women doing this alone, just in case I can't convince my friend to do it again?
Hi Anne, walking from le Puy I had my sister in law with me, but I began another journey 2 years early from Toulouse on my own and didn't stay that way for long. Even on that route, which at that time was much less travelled, I was only alone for 1 1/2 days before I met someone who became a very good friend and who I walked with for many days. If I could begin my walk on the much less travelled path on my own and still meet someone to walk with, how much easier it would have been from Le puy. There were many people on the path when we walked it, some that I could communicate with and others I couldn't and likewise some that I could have walked with and others ..... I would have no hesitation at going back there and walking the route on my own. Indeed it looks as if I will be walking from Bar-sur-Seine (north of Vezelay) on my own. It will be interesting to see how long I stay "alone" regards, Janet

 

[vjpulver]

Thanks for the suggestion. I applaud your flexibility and approach. That is my thought too. I will see how the weather unfolds when I arrive in Spain.

Part of what appeals to me about the whole walk is that one must face each day as it comes, make the immediate decisions necessary...it is not an orchestrated atour with all the details spelled out and all cleaned up and pretty. Each day will unfold with challenges and opportunities to grow and learn and to test my character...opportunities to find beauty in small things...

I am eager for my opportunity to walk! FYI: I ordered my new hiking shoes and am eagerly anticipating breaking them in!

Life is Good...

"Ginn"
http://www.pulverpages.com
In Sunny Santa Fe

HI Ginn,
I started in Roncesvalles in early March of this year. The day before I left, on this site, I saw pictures of snow in Roncesvalles and was a little concerned. After reading the suggestions of those who posted here, I decided that I'd decide when I got there. I flew into Pamplona as planned and went to the bus station. The young woman working at the bus station information desk checked the weather for me and said that although it had snowed, she didn't think it would be a problem. Based on that, and suggestions that I could walk on the main road (instead of the Camino proper) in the event of snow, I went ahead by bus to Roncesvalles. I'm glad I did as walking into mass that evening in Roncesvalles with the snow falling overhead was a really beautiful sight. The next morning I started from Roncesvalles on the main road and about half way to Larrasoana, as the snow depth decreased, I got back on the Camino. For me, playing it by ear worked out well. Those who I met who had walked the previous day from SJPP had walked on the main road from there to Roncesvalles. I'm sure that wherever you start, you will have a wonderful experience.

 

[colinPeter]

Hi Cecelia,

Thanks for the very encouraging and informative reply. Sounds like you have had some wonderful experiences on this route. Helen & I also plan to break this stage into 2 sections, although we plan to have a day in Saint Jean prior to setting out.

...in 2003 ... I stayed at Huntto ( 5 or 6 km out of SJPP) overnight. ... In 2007 I .... stayed overnight at Orisson.

You mentioned that you have done this, stopping at both Huntto & Orisson, I assume that Orisson (being a bit further on) might be the preferred option. Is it normally difficult at this time of year (April) to stay at Huntto or Orisson?

Again, thank you for the advice.

Colin & Helen

 

[KiwiNomad06]

I stayed in Orisson at the end of May, and got a booking OK about ten days out while I was walking in France. It is not all that big though, and you never know when it might be booked out, so booking is advisable. They also ask you to reconfirm the day/evening before and it is important to do that, or they might cancel your booking. If you don't speak French, the people in the Pilgrim's Office, or at your gite, will probably do it for you.
Margaret

 

[jl]

Hello Colin and Helen, In 2007 when I left St Jean I only went up to Huntto. We didn't leave St Jean till later in the afternoon, as we had travelled from Ostobat (early Sept.) and the next day we struck fog. Because we had no view to discourage us we positively "ran" (for me that is) up the mountain leaving Huntto at 7.30a.m. and arriving in Roncevalles at 1.30. I was fairly fit by then, but the fact that we couldn't see where we were going added to the beauty, and it also helped us because we got a big surprise when we got to the top! The gite at Huntto is much larger than at Orisson, and whilst not being palatial, you will be rewarded with some good views, and will have a good start for the morning's climb the next day. It is also a good place to mix with your fellow pilgrim's and over dinner you will meet many people from many different nationalities. In inclement weather you will need to take extreme caution crossing the pyrennees. Cheers, Janet