From Canada - Planning for October-November 2012

[C clearly]

I have been an occasional lurker on this forum for years and am now ready to join in!

A sister-in-law (or two) and I are planning to walk about 200 km of the camino, starting in late October. We'd like the satisfaction of arriving in Santiago even though we don't have time or confidence yet for a long route. Maybe next year we will! We are in our 60s. I speak Spanish fairly well.

What route would you recommend at this time of year? We are thinking of Porto to Santiago. On the other hand, we don't speak Portuguese. Would the weather be better in Portugal than on the other routes? How busy would all the routes be in October-November? (I'm not enthusiastic about racing to find accommodation, but also don't want to be totally isolated on the trail.)

Any advice you have would be appreciated! Thank you.

 

[mspath]

Welcome to the Forum!

October and November are wonderful months to walk the Camino. The weather is generally cool and clear at least until Galicia. When daylight saving stops days grow short; nights can be chilly or cold and freezing rain or even snow might occur in the mountains. Whichever route you take you must be prepared for VARIED weather.

For the past seven years I have walked each autumn/winter on the Camino Frances and always loved it. One is never totally alone. However "as the days dwindle down" there are always fewer and fewer pilgrims. Although some places will close for the winter accommodation is not a problem. Since the crowds of summer are past you will find the welcome at those albergues which are open to be most sincere. Not all albergues will be open but the hospitaleros usually know who is on the next stage. Most albergues will either be heated or have blankets.

Since you wish to walk 200 km or so you might begin at Ponferrada on the CF. Starting there you would have the experience of going up to the mythic mountain hamlet O Cebriero and then walking through Galicia to Santiago.

Whichever route you choose I wish you Buen Camino,

Margaret

 

[skilsaw]

Hi,
If I wanted a short camino to end in Santiago, I would begin in Leon. It is a beautiful old city so if you arrive mid day, you can be a tourist for half a day, and start your pilgrimage the next day. As a relatively large city, it should be easy to travel in to. Leon to Santiago took me 2 weeks.

Astorga, just a couple days past Leon has lots of character too.

It is all good! And the Way will not be crowded.

Have a wonderful journey.
David, Victoria, Canada.

 

[C clearly]

Thanks for the replies. I have been feverishly researching things during the past week, trying to get the major parts organized. I have been testing 2 pairs of lightweight hiking boots in the local mall and have settled on one. Got a new 30 L backpack (Osprey Talon 33, which weighs only 820 g), sleeping bag (1000 g) and Black Diamond folding walking sticks (265 g). I am aiming for 6 kg plus water and snacks. I got a digital kitchen scale which gives me no end of entertainment as I weigh everything in sight and mark it on an Excel spreadsheet.

Haven't had time to walk! (I work full time, which interferes with preparations.) Last Saturday my sister-in-law (partner pilgrim) and I walked 24 km with no trouble, but without packs and it was a perfect walking day.

We are thinking of departing Canada on October 20 and starting the camino from Astorga around October 23. We are allowing plenty of time (3 weeks or so) so we can go slowly and even walk on to Finisterre at the end.

I haven't booked flights yet or figured out transport to Astorga and accommodation there. Where can we get the credential - in either Madrid or Astorga? Also where should we stay our first night in Astorga and where would we set out from the city?

I am reading "I'm Off Then" by Hape Kerkeling.

 

[mspath]

In Astorga you can pick up a Credential at the Albergue de peregrinos Siervas de María on the Plaza San Francisco, 3. Recently renovated in an ex-convent it is a pleasant albergue on the eastern side of Astorga, but they do NOT take reservations. They are open between 10:30 and 23:00. Here is their web >> http://www.caminodesantiagoastorga.com/. During many caminos I have stayed here.

In Astorga there are many small hotels. One popular place centrally located facing the cathedral and the famous Bishop's palace designed by Gaudi is the Hotel Gaudi on the Plaza de Eduardo Castro, 6. Their web is gaudihotel.es/.

You can easily follow the camino arrows west towards the mountains from the cathedral.

Buen Camino,

Margaret

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The buses from Madrid airport to Astorga:

Aeropuerto Madrid-barajas T4 Astorga 09:35 14:50 5h 15min 23.39€ LMXJV
Aeropuerto Madrid-barajas T4 Astorga 13:45 18:00 4h 15min 32.17€ LMXJVS
Aeropuerto Madrid-barajas T4 Astorga 16:00 22:00 6h 00min 25.75€ LMXJV
Aeropuerto Madrid-barajas T4 Astorga 16:45 21:30 4h 45min 23.39€ LMXJV
Aeropuerto Madrid-barajas T4 Astorga 23:59 04:15 4h 16min 23.39€ LMXJ SD
Aeropuerto Madrid-barajas T4 Astorga 23:59 04:15 4h 16min 23.39€ V
Aeropuerto Madrid-barajas T4 Astorga 23:59 04:15 4h 16min 23.39€ LMXJVSD

 

[Deleted member 3000]

For 8 Euros:

Albergue de Peregrinos San Javier
Dirección: Portería, 6
Localidad: Astorga (León)
Teléfono de contacto: 987 61 85 32
Propiedad del albergue: Privada
Institución o administración encargada de los costes de mantenimiento: Asoc. Cultural Vía de la Plata
Persona encargada de atender el albergue: Javier Ramos
En caso de estar el albergue cerrado: Javier Ramos

You can see the cathedral from its front door, and it is just around the corner from the Hotel Gaudi, where a pilgrim menu comes and goes with the vagaries of non-pilgrim demand. My last pilgrim menu there rated a "poor." Previous ones were a good+.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Oh, and remember that sunrise is about 0840 and sunset 1930 at that time, so days are getting shorter. Following the rigid summer rules, many albergues still enforce an 0800 departure time, dumping you into dark streets, an excellent opportunity for a breakfast stop at the open bars. The breakfast at San Javier is among the best I have had on the camino, and included cereals, fruit, juice, eggs, and yogurt.

 

[cecelia]

Hi,
You can also get a credencial in Canada at http://www.santiago.ca although I see they are now saying that it takes up to four weeks and there's a $5.00 charge. But then you have it and it's one less thing to do when you get there. However, you will have no trouble getting it an the albergue in Astorga as mentioned above. I wouldn't bother trying to get it in Madrid unless you're spending extra time there.
Buen camino,
Cecelia (Vancouver BC)

 

[C clearly]

Going to the airport in an hour, to fly to Madrid, make our way to Astorga, and start walking. We are carrying about 6.1 kg each.

Thanks for all your help. The time for preparation has now expired!