In León- now what?

[joecamino]

OK, I know the answer is something like "Keep heading West!" but I am hoping for suggestions folks might have on good stopping points, places one shouldn't (or ought to) miss, etc.

I'll probably average 20-25km daily, with some long and short days mixed in.

Thanks!

 

[SabsP]

OK, I know the answer is something like "Keep heading West!" but I am hoping for suggestions folks might have on good stopping points, places one shouldn't (or ought to) miss, etc.

I'll probably average 20-25km daily, with some long and short days mixed in.

Thanks!

Well now walking out of Leon you could choose the " nicer " scenic route to Villar de Mazarife instead of walking to Viladangos del Paramo. A beautiful walk but take enough water.
https://www.gronze.com/etapa/leon/villar-mazarife
Bar / Albergue Pepe has a wonderful atmosphere.
Next day a good stroll to Villares de Orbigo...Only 17 k. but with my lovely fellow Belgian owner in the local albergue.
https://www.gronze.com/etapa/villar-mazarife/astorga
Then again if you like to stay in Astorga later on the stop in Villares de Orbigo might not be ideal. Although walking to Astorga would be a short day giving you time to stroll around town.

Whatever you decide : Enjoy!

 

[SYates]

I would suggest to choose the way via Vilar de Mazarife https://www.gronze.com/etapa/leon/villar-mazarife as the other one is all the time close to the national road https://www.gronze.com/etapa/leon/san-martin-camino.
Buen Camino, SY

 

[nidarosa]

Further on albergue Gaucelmo in lovely Rabanal is a good choice. And don't let people scare you away from the walk up to O Cebreiro - take your time, stop and rest where you can (La Faba and Laguna) and enjoy the views!

 

[mspath]

Here is some further info for planning your journey.

Following the camino leaving Leon can be dreary. However, it is only 7 km to La Virgen del Camino and an extraordinary 20th century church. The town is named for a famous 15th century figure of the Virgin holding the dead body of Christ. Today the figure is in a splendid church designed in the 1960s by a Dominican monk, Francisco Coello, a follower of the Brutalist style of Le Corbusier. Located directly on the Camino Frances at Av Astorga, 87, in the midst of chaotic suburb the church is a superbly maintained architectural gem as well as a haven of peace. Be sure to enter it; the calm interior is splendidly lit with deep chrome yellow glass.

Opposite the church you can choose to either continue on the main camino which parallels the highway or pick up the peaceful alternative camino route going slightly southwest towards Villar de Mazarife. It is always very pleasant to escape the N120 highway noise and suburban sprawl while crossing wide flat plains up to V de M where there are several pilgrim albergues and regular accommodation. From V d M the alternative camino continues to Hospital de Órbigo to rejoin the main CF. You can read more about the alternative more rural route in this earlier Forum thread .

Hospital de Orbigo offers many accommodation options; my favorite is the Albergue Verde. They accept reservations and offer wonderful group meals each evening. Leaving HdO turn right to follow the camino towards Astorga via Santibanez de Valdeiglesias on a wonderful rolling rural path.

Carpe diem!

 

[SabsP]

Indeed the church of La Virgen del Camino is beautiful and the Dominicans are very friendly.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

The camino in Leon passes the Basilica of San Isidoro and attached to that is a museum that conatains books and other objects of that period but there were two things that absolutely fascinated me, the Royal Pantheon and the chalice of Dona Urraca, one of the Holy Grails that Europe is so full of. The Royal Pantheon is sometimes called the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art" and a recent book documented the chalice (and did such a job that it might be off display for awhile.)

Here it is: https://mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4.php?ll=42.600454,-5.571210&z=16

Most of the way from Leon to La Virgen de la Camino is pretty dreary and hard on the feet as well as the eyes. You may want to street bus this stretch. From there go the way to Vilar de Mazarife. There were wild meadows and woods mixed in with the fields.

 

[nathanael]

OK, I know the answer is something like "Keep heading West!" but I am hoping for suggestions folks might have on good stopping points, places one shouldn't (or ought to) miss, etc.

I'll probably average 20-25km daily, with some long and short days mixed in.

Thanks!

In Rabenal, you can stay with the monks up to 2-3 days as long as you specify it's a spiritual rest. I believe 8 beds in a well appoint dorm with a outdoor mezzanine and small cloister just for the guests. all your meals are provided and taken with two monks I believe. Father Pius is an excellent cook. I stayed there a few years ago all they ask is a donation.

 

[NoQ]

If you do take the Villadangos route, one of the best 'Santiago Matamoros' awaits at the church.

Make a stop in Astorga and enjoy an amazing lunch of 'cocido' at Casa Maragata (Husar Tiburcio restaurant is the best). Then visit the chocolate museum before walking it off spending time in the cathedral.

Stop off in Molinaseca, a fabulous large village with some of the best food on the Camino, and if the weather is good, enjoy a swim in the semi swimming pool area in the river.

Completely agree with everyone on Rabanal, though Foncebadon is not far behind. I always think it's a pity these two villages are so close together.

 

[jgpryde]

...
Next day a good stroll to Villares de Orbigo...Only 17 k. but with my lovely fellow Belgian owner in the local albergue.
...

I can wholeheartedly endorse this referral in realtime from the comfort of the Alburgue Villarreal de Orbigo courtyard.
If I could only upload the good smells wafting from the kitchen right now!
Buen Camino,
-jgp

 

[nathanael]

Further on albergue Gaucelmo in lovely Rabanal is a good choice. And don't let people scare you away from the walk up to O Cebreiro - take your time, stop and rest where you can (La Faba and Laguna) and enjoy the views!

no one has scared me from that climb, too practical to have a heart attack have walked up 4 times enough the bus this year. was last year a 30+ guy died on there . that path is not geared for emergency personnel to come?

 

[nidarosa]

@nathanael I was referring to the way a lot of people on the forum and off it talk about the Herrerias-O Cebreiro stretch, like it is some kind of Everest climb. I seriously considered bypassing it because I doubted I could do it, but it really isn't that bad - and it is incredibly beautiful! Of course if you have a medical reason to avoid hills, then avoid it, but don't let rumours and exaggeration stop you from walking it, just like the rumours of the boring Meseta makes people consider bussing past it even before they leave for Spain. Have a look at the distance and elevation in your guidebook (and others') and make it a shorter day, take a longer break(s), slow down and enjoy.

 

[SabsP]

@nathanael I was referring to the way a lot of people on the forum and off it talk about the Herrerias-O Cebreiro stretch, like it is some kind of Everest climb. I seriously considered bypassing it because I doubted I could do it, but it really isn't that bad - and it is incredibly beautiful! Of course if you have a medical reason to avoid hills, then avoid it, but don't let rumours and exaggeration stop you from walking it, just like the rumours of the boring Meseta makes people consider bussing past it even before they leave for Spain. Have a look at the distance and elevation in your guidebook (and others') and make it a shorter day, take a longer break(s), slow down and enjoy.

The trick with these kind of hills , I think, is to start the climb early in the morning when you are fresh and hopefully had a good sleep. May 2011 I saw only five or six other pilgrims on that stretch. Guess it will be busier now...

 

[Deleted member 12253]

OK, I know the answer is something like "Keep heading West!" but I am hoping for suggestions folks might have on good stopping points, places one shouldn't (or ought to) miss, etc.

I'll probably average 20-25km daily, with some long and short days mixed in.

Thanks!

Keep walking and santiago only around corner. I come alive in mountains . Snow on top and lovely lovely sights. Buen camino

 

[joecamino]

Thanks everyone for the tips.

I pulled 300 lbs of Joe + pack over The Pyrenees three weeks ago. O Cebreiro can find someone else to scare!

 

[natefaith]

Joe, just want to second that Astorga, and Ponferrada, are great towns to explore a bit more if you have extra time. Enjoy!
Faith

 

[Annie Little]

Thanks everyone for the tips.

I pulled 300 lbs of Joe + pack over The Pyrenees three weeks ago. O Cebreiro can find someone else to scare!

Yes it is quite funny as the weeks pass and the map says difficult climb tomorrow and you think at days end : that wasn't difficult ! Great sense of achievement knowing fitness has improved . I loved o cebreiro and it was raining !

 

[Annie Little]

Before O cebreiro there was a lovely place I stopped for lunch ..... Casa del pescador ...... the food was wonderful and picked from the garden ... wonderful surrounds and although I did not stay there the accommodation looked lovely ..... after lunch walked further and stayed at Refugio de peregrinos pequeno portala ..... accommodation nothing to rave about but the food was great and it was just before the climb started up o cebreiro

 

[LdnWalker]

Yes to Astorga and Gaucelmo at Rabanal. We also stopped at a lovely little place in Las Herrerias with communal vegetarian meal. Started the O Cebreiro walk early from there and found only the stretch up to LaFaba to be a bit steep. We rewarded ourselves with coffee in a nice cafe and thoroughly enjoyed the rest if the walk up. If you've done the Pyrenees, you're more than capable of conquering O Cebreiro.

 

[Davie Blisters]

Before O cebreiro there was a lovely place I stopped for lunch ..... Casa del pescador ...... the food was wonderful and picked from the garden ... wonderful surrounds and although I did not stay there the accommodation looked lovely ..... after lunch walked further and stayed at Refugio de peregrinos pequeno portala ..... accommodation nothing to rave about but the food was great and it was just before the climb started up o cebreiro

I second Annie's comments regarding 'Casa del Pescador'. A Russian couple took it over last year and I had the pleasure of delivering a young lady from St Petersburg who stayed the night so that she could reminisce about their mother-country (a long story- please don't ask). I recall their plans were to re-stock the man-made lake with fish to serve at the Albergue. A really hard-working and friendly couple. If you do call in Joe, mention David the Englishman and Anna from St Petersburg - you may get lunch on-the-house!

 

[Annie Little]

I second Annie's comments regarding 'Casa del Pescador'. A Russian couple took it over last year and I had the pleasure of delivering a young lady from St Petersburg who stayed the night so that she could reminisce about their mother-country (a long story- please don't ask). I recall their plans were to re-stock the man-made lake with fish to serve at the Albergue. A really hard-working and friendly couple. If you do call in Joe, mention David the Englishman and Anna from St Petersburg - you may get lunch on-the-house!

And the accommodation looked clean and nice atmosphere .... if I go back I intend to stay there .... although it is also nice to walk closer to OCebreiro before stopping fir the night ... so as to have fresh start before the climb ....

 

[John Finn]

Don't stop in Vilar de Mazarife - it's an uninteresting place. Go on to Villavante - about 10 kms away. There is a much better albergue there (a girl I met who stayed there was glowing in her praise of it) - it's just to the left as you enter the village.

 

[Elizabeth-o]

Further on albergue Gaucelmo in lovely Rabanal is a good choice. And don't let people scare you away from the walk up to O Cebreiro - take your time, stop and rest where you can (La Faba and Laguna) and enjoy the views!

Joe, 'so glad to hear from you!!! I have been wondering how it's going. Advice about O Cebreiro: Spend the night before in Vega de Valcarce so you are fresh for your trek uphill. We did it that way twice and it wasn't bad at all.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

OK, I know the answer is something like "Keep heading West!" but I am hoping for suggestions folks might have on good stopping points, places one shouldn't (or ought to) miss, etc.

I'll probably average 20-25km daily, with some long and short days mixed in.

Thanks!

So exciting! Get a good coffee before you leave town...walk through the streets on the way out, noticing art shops...walk, and walk, and walk...and know that I am so excited that you are there!

 

[joecamino]

Thanks again for the info. I'll be in Astorga tomorrow night.

Looks like next big decision is whether to stop in Rabanal or Foncebadón. Any concensus here?

If I can cover Astorga to Foncebadón in a day, I think that brings Ponferrada into range for the following day. But doing the stretch after Rabanal in the afternoon seems pretty rough.

Since I've been staying in private rooms instead of albergues, availability of rooms in these towns is a factor alongside distances.

Thanks again

 

[LdnWalker]

Rabanal has albergues as well as private accommodation. I think Foncebadon is a bit smaller but someone might know if there are private rooms. We stopped at Rabanal, then enjoyed Molinaseca. It's got a lovely bridge and river to sit by while having an afternoon beer. We did end up walking through Ponferrada though, so that might not work for you if you want to stop there.

 

[natefaith]

Hola Joe,
Another way to break it up would be to stay in Rabanal, then the mountain town of Acebo. Then Ponferrada the next day. Acebo is teeny tiny but it's fun to stay up in the mountains one more day before doing the descent to Molinaseca. Molinaseca is beautiful, though, as @LdnWalker mentioned.

Enjoy!
Faith

 

[John Finn]

Joe, my advice is to stay in Rabanal. There is ample private accommodation available in the town. Foncebadon is like a bomb-site - lots of derelict buildings and only a few habitations and I didn't see any private rooms. It's very primitive. Rabanal has character and is an interesting place. The descent to Molinaseca requires great care, especially if it's wet. Nice place, Molinaseca so you might want to stay there.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Hi Joe, I'm following your progress, glad to hear your Camino is going well!

I stayed in Rabanal last May at Albergue El Pilar. Very cool place, though I'm not sure about private accommodations. But as John Finn said, there's a number of options, several hotels/pensions.

Rabanal was my favorite place on the Camino. I attended the evening Vespers service at the Monasterio Benedictino, and was very moved by the Gregorian chant (though I don't identify as Catholic). I revisit my hours there nearly every day, in my heart. When I walked through Foncebadon I was happy I'd stayed at Rabanal. FWIW, I also loved Molinaseca!

 

[Annie Little]

Rabanal has albergues as well as private accommodation. I think Foncebadon is a bit smaller but someone might know if there are private rooms. We stopped at Rabanal, then enjoyed Molinaseca. It's got a lovely bridge and river to sit by while having an afternoon beer. We did end up walking through Ponferrada though, so that might not work for you if you want to stop there.

I agree molinesca was a lovely place to stay .... the walk into I also enjoyed ....

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

The descent to Molinaseca requires great care, especially if it's wet.

Even the road.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Hola Joe,
Another way to break it up would be to stay in Rabanal, then the mountain town of Acebo. Then Ponferrada the next day. Acebo is teeny tiny but it's fun to stay up in the mountains one more day before doing the descent to Molinaseca. Molinaseca is beautiful, though, as @LdnWalker mentioned.

Enjoy!
Faith

This would be my suggestion. I loved Acebo so much. It's a great place to rest, and just beautiful. I remember being so exhausted when I reached Acebo--both times. The first time I stayed in an Albergue, the second in a pension. Both times very good rest.

 

[Terry aka Tex]

Joe I am glad your enjoying your camino I would recommend El Acebo stayed in the Albergue had the communal Dinner and watched the sunset fantastic.

 

[nidarosa]

Rabanal-Acebo-Ponferrada is a good plan, and the trail does get tricky in places so take your time. Just as you turn into Rabanal there is the Candela, which has private rooms, then Gaspar and Refugio further up. The huge new albergue at the end of Acebo also has private rooms which you can book beforehand - and a pool! Ponferrada has lots of different accommodation.

 

[mspath]

As you enter El Acebo the popular local bar/restaurant, Meson El Acebo has a good food and a simple albergue dorm upstairs. There are 32 bunk places, 2 toilets/ 2 showers and plenty of blankets. Although the heating was NOT a strong point, this spot was always a most welcome stop in late autumn and winter when all else was closed. El Acebo, is a small mountain village where little has been 'gussied up'; slate from the mountains covers the roofs of the vernacular stone buildings; most have second-floor porch galleries facing the single street, the Camino.

 

[Annie Little]

Before getting to Monilesca ... there was a lovely little village arrived at by a very long trek and steep descent .... I am not sure if it is the same place you mention ..... but last year they built a very lovely albergue on the way out of town , with pool and great views ..... I didn't stay there but I will next time

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi Joe
thanks for starting this thread - I'm learning lots of little gems of info myself!
As a CSJ member, I'm just putting in a shout for our Rabanal albergue, Gaucelmo. It's run by volunteers and it has a tranquil garden - and afternoon tea is usually provided! It's old-skool, so beds (in the old building and in the modernised barn) are allocated on a first-come basis. Like Pilar's place (which is also a nice place to stay) it's not one of the first stops at the entry to the village, but most of the way up the hill, near the church. Another 'recommend' here for the Gregorain chanting at the church's evening service.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Looks like I'm too late to say Turn right and head for Oviedo and the Primitivo!!

 

[camino07]

Must be the only one who loves Foncebadon. I have lunch or snack in Rabanal and walk on. Love the ambience of the village on top of the hill. Monte Irago is a great Albergue but there are now 2 or3 others also. Magnificent walk next day to Ponferrada.

 

[SYates]

Must be the only one who loves Foncebadon. I have lunch or snack in Rabanal and walk on. Love the ambience of the village on top of the hill. Monte Irago is a great Albergue but there are now 2 or3 others also. Magnificent walk next day to Ponferrada.

No, you are not ;-) Another plus is that you are earlier at the Cruz de Ferro and, hopefully, have some quiet there. Buen Camino, SY

 

[Deleted member 36903]

Hi Joe, Rabanal gets my vote, as does the Gaucelmo albergue, but as you prefer private accommodation you won't get to share in afternoon tea. There are some good restaurants in the village and I agree with everyone who has mentioned the Vespers service. The church was freezing when I was there, but the welcome from the monks was warm and pilgrims from various countries volunteered beforehand to contribute - in their own language - during the service.

 

[mspath]

Rabanal is a very special place.

Imagine my surprise 17/11/2011 when entering that small Romanesque sanctuary to be greeted by cozy heat as well as the Abbot who smiled as he directly asked "Do you speak English?". When I nodded he then handed me a selection on St Elisabeth and love to read aloud during the service. After briefly scanning the passage, smoothing my hair, pulling down my anorak, and worrying that my wooly pants might look too messy, I went "live" in front of the assembled other pilgrims and parish members. After the service we all filed out into the frosty night.

...Next morning cold fog swirled white and dense throughout the village. The local bread delivery truck was parked where the camino continues westward. Dressed in "civvies" the Abbot was buying two huge loaves for his monastery. As we nodded to each other I thanked him for the past evening's service; he wished me a spiritual Buen Camino and then disappeared into the white. After these brief encounters each of us alone would follow his own path into the fog blanketed unknown.

 

[november_moon]

I love both Rabinal and Foncebadon. I stayed in "Fonzy" in 2014 and had one of the best nights of my Camino there. It is a magical place on the side of a mountain. We spent a wonderful afternoon/evening hanging out and chatting with people. So often on the Camino, our experiences with a place are influenced by the other people who happen to be there at the same time.

Last year when we walked, the timing and distances worked out better for staying in Rabinal. I loved that town too. We stayed at Albergue Pilar, next to the municipal. They have a wonderful courtyard, which was cool and shady on a hot afternoon. And the town itself was nice for an evening stroll.

In this section of the Camino, I don't think you can really go wrong. On the other side of the mountain, El Acebo and Molinaseca are both great. Ponferrada has a lot to see (the walk in and out is uninspired, but the city is nice). And then you are on your way across a valley and up to Ocebreiro.

 

[Annie Little]

Hola Joe,
Another way to break it up would be to stay in Rabanal, then the mountain town of Acebo. Then Ponferrada the next day. Acebo is teeny tiny but it's fun to stay up in the mountains one more day before doing the descent to Molinaseca. Molinaseca is beautiful, though, as @LdnWalker mentioned.

Enjoy!
Faith

2016 there is a new albergue on the way out of town on top of the mountain ... I didn't stay as I walked on to molinesca

I really enjoyed the walk to molinesca ... it was a Rocky descent so to took it real slow but I thought the surrounds were lovely ...

I enjoyed molinesca too ....