LIVE from the Camino K's Primitivo 24

[KariannNor]

Thanks to those of you who have wished me Buen Camino pm!

My plan was Salvador/Prim, but 1) cold feet because of a knee (old injury) and 2) would have to rush with no possibilty of short/rest days. Now i have the luxory of not having to be in SDC until 17th inkl Finestierre. Have no idea how long/short stages I will have. Stayed one day in Pamplona, in Oviedo now. Tour/mess at the stunning, beautiful cathedral, shopped for a whistle (thank you, Peter) and a new sleeping bag. My homemade one (a tread about my sewing project somewhere) did not work at all. And an umbrella of course, rain all day and food for tomorrow (1th May guess everything closed).

In albergue La Hospederia, 20m from the church. Small, cozy.

Just feel like a race horse stepping eager in its startbox now.

Feel blessed and thankful to be here.

Why can't I manage to click the button for upload pictures...

 

[VNwalking]

Just feel like a race horse stepping eager in its startbox now.

Buen camino!
If you have energy to burn, take yourself up to Naranco. The two Visigothic churches up there are gorgeous. It's uphill, but not grotesquely so. Maybe an hour's walk?

 

[KariannNor]

Buen camino!
If you have energy to burn, take yourself up to Naranco. The two Visigothic churches up there are gorgeous. It's uphill, but not grotesquely so. Maybe an hour's walk?

Buen camino!
If you have energy to burn, take yourself up to Naranco. The two Visigothic churches up there are gorgeous. It's uphill, but not grotesquely so. Maybe an hour's walk?

Thanks for the advice, I might do!

 

[dbier]

Depending on your plan, you may want to wander up to the churches about when they open, and then hopefully follow a GPS track to the Primitivo. Consider stopping in Escamplero as a shorter stage.

(I toured the churches the day before I started, so didn't go that way).

 

[VNwalking]

Depending on your plan, you may want to wander up to the churches about when they open

They're closed for restoration, alas.
But it's still not a bad idea to do that, as it's more or less in the same direction as the Primitivo.

 

[Kirkie]

Good to see you are on your way. Persevere with trying to post photos, maybe another pilgrim can help...

 

[OxfordHiker]

K,
Well done ,your on your Way...
Hope all goes well, Buen Camino, looking forward to some pictures
Laurence

 

[KariannNor]

Hmm.. booket and payed this morning Paladin because of the weather. Am there now and not even opened yet.. hm, go to Grado or not..

 

[KariannNor]

K,
Well done ,your on your Way...
Hope all goes well, Buen Camino, looking forward to some pictures
Laurence

How to post? The button for pictures not possible to click at..

 

[KariannNor]

Spotter try..

 

[KariannNor]

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Great to see you on the way. Have you seen many fellow pilgrims? (Other than the one in your photo)

 

[VNwalking]

Perfect!

 

[KariannNor]

Great to see you on the way. Have you seen many fellow pilgrims? (Other than the one in your photo)

Yes, perfect balance alone/company actually, most spanish, a woman from Germany, a man from Holland, more coming to the alb, nice to chat at evenings but allowed to walk alone

 

[KariannNor]

Well lesson learned today, not book ahead. Staying here in Paladin, but staying from 12 got a bit, well not boring, but not Camino life really. Waited for an hour having my lunchpack on my raindeer (Peter, you know what I mean), the owner showed up, and it started to rain heavily, so had a hot shower and a nap instead of Grado. Walked around the mini village, a cozy place. More people showed up and look forward to dinner later.

But, most important, WOW, what a beautiful walk in this magnificant country! Lovely countryside, small nice towns, stunning nature, well, what not to love.

Will be brave not to book tomorrow and try let go of this obsession I have of dangerous beds..

 

[KariannNor]

Sorry for the size of my pictures. Am such an old digital idiot not knowing how to make a link to names from phone either. But its all about interests isn't it..

 

[Kathygd]

They're closed for restoration, alas.
But it's still not a bad idea to do that, as it's more or less in the same direction as the Primitivo.

I went the day before and though they are closed, the visitor center was open and I thought it was fantastic!

 

[VNwalking]

the visitor center was open and I thought it was fantastic!

Yes they do a fabulous job.

 

[OxfordHiker]

How to post? The button for pictures not possible to click at..

Don't know if this worked but just added a picture from last tear.
As I began typing, saw a box on left side Attach File, I clicked on it and found this picture and added it, maybe try and see if it works for you. Good luck

 

[OxfordHiker]

Great to hear you going well, keep up the good work.
Buen Camino Pilgrim

 

[pixel]

Nice getting your latest update from Camino Primitivo.
Enjoy! and Buen Camino!

 

[KariannNor]

May 2
Palatine - Casazorrina

What a day! Peter, my Mentor and PT, thanks for support via phone during my many crises.

First embarrassing moment. Out of Grado (which before/after on busy road) I must have missed an arrow, so wandered forever on a nice path. Then it split (photo 1) and I thought maybe someone had stolen the arrow or something. Went one way, ended up in a farm. Back, the other ended in nothing, just stopped in the jungle. I suddenly understood nothing of the apps, other than the direction to the motorway, and should have been near there. After trying many ways to get there, I got pretty desperate. In the end I just went straight into the bush and an eternity later arrived at the highway. Never felt so stupid in my entire life, having to wave at a car to ask where to go. He said "jump in" and drove me back to Grado. The Spaniards are angels.

Next crisis. Booked Roca Madre, which has been highly recommended here. But when I arrived a little after 2pm, the lady said they were closed! Well, searched desperately for accommodation in Salas on websites (13km seemed fine) without dangerous beds, found none. Well, after reassuring words from Peter, I just had to go and try to find a place. So incredibly relieved, in Casazorrina 3km before Salas now, a beautiful place and safe bed. Fitbit says 29.6km, probably due to my private embarrassing detour. Otherwise, nice scenery and good weather, but really wasn't prepared to walk and listen to a highway all the way! Tired in the head of noise from trucks. Hope it gets better?

Lesson learned, cannot walk phone-free after all.

If you stop in Palatin, try Paeblos famous award winning Cachopo, was wonderful.

 

[sun is shining]

Those days are all part of it. I once walked 15km only to end up in a town on a stretch that wasn’t meant to have any towns / settlements for 25km… A lovely lady loaded us in her car and drove us close to where we were meant to go - which was exactly in the opposite direction of the 15km we had just walked. To this day it’s one of my favourite Camino memories.

 

[OxfordHiker]

Kari , you certainly know how to go on an adventure. Great you worked it out, well done
Have a great day tomorrow
Buem Camino

 

[KariannNor]

Day 3
Casazorrina - Tineo

Nice walk. Managed to book completely myself without crisis support this morning. I'm very happy about that, it's completely full here and people keep coming with a bit of desperation in their eyes. I don't know if it's true, but people say it's fully booked. I had no idea this was such a busy route. So if you are going to the traditional stops, I strongly recommend booking. More later, I continue my search for tomorrow in very bad Spanish.

 

[OxfordHiker]

Great you had a nice day, really odd that there are so many pilgrims on the route, like you i thought it
was a quite one.
Anyway good luck with your bookings and have a great day tomorrow

 

[KariannNor]

Ahh, it's a festival, that explains a lot. Managed to get a bed right before Borres now.

 

[KariannNor]

Day 4 - Tineo - Campiello

Well, this panic in and out of Tineo has really stressed me out. People did nothing but try to get booked. But have now understood that it is - at least also - because the Spanish often take a week's holiday in connection with May 1 and the weekend after. Well, had hoped for albergue Los Hospitales or el Espina, but 2km before Campiello I met my Camino angel. He is 77 and has walked about a thousand Caminos, finally gets to speak English completely (sorry to say it, but there have been days with a bit of tiring communication), and relaxed, has been allowed to mention him, is on the forum but not active user now. Just what I needed, to be reassured by someone who has never prebooked before. So even though the last few kilometers were in the rain, they were my best because I trusted him. At the very first albergue, we were the very first and were warmly welcomed, both lowest beds. Then there is this with Hospitale's route or not then. Can't bear to listen to this panic chatter more about bad weather forecast. And my friend, from whom I learn so much, says that, yes, too much to explain now. But those of you who have gone, understand. Either way, there are full accommodation places anyway. So we have booked hotel room in Pola de Allande now. Thinking of planning the stages going forward because of this.

I definitely finish in Lugo because of the roadwalking and cars and people after that. Then I have 10 days left. Presumably back to Leon, go Salvador, or other suggestions? Not Portuguese. English? Ourense?

It's amazing how rumors and panic spread. Otherwise, fantastic to meet so many different people from different cultures. Finally back to the camino magic. Every minute is a pleasure.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

What a wonderful finish to your day! Shame that you won’t get to walk the Hospitales, but great that you’ve found such an experienced companion. Enjoy

 

[VNwalking]

How fast can you walk, @KariannNor ?
If you can cover a fair bit of ground the Invierno could be walked in 9-10 days from Ponferrada. But that's fast. 12 is more reasonable.

 

[KariannNor]

Gone = walked
ha ha, never use Google translate

 

[KariannNor]

How fast can you walk, @KariannNor ?
If you can cover a fair bit of ground the Invierno could be walked in 9-10 days from Ponferrada. But that's fast. 12 is more reasonable.

Interesting!!

 

[OxfordHiker]

Hi Kari, you really are getting into a difficult time of year. Glad you met your " knight in shinning armour" and it'll worked out.
I Hope it will get better for you. Take a deep breath and go for it.
Laurence

 

[Gingerbaldy]

Hi Kari,
Thanks for the updates, I start the same route in 2 weeks. I have only booked a hostel in Oviedo, was hoping to wing it from there..May have to look a bit closer now.
Buen Camino

 

[KariannNor]

18 in the alb, why am I the only woman? Same last night

 

[J Willhaus]

18 in the alb, why am I the only woman? Same last night

Sounds like everyone else is down on the CF; you are a Pathfinder and free spirit!

 

[sun is shining]

@KariannNor - how is the temperature / availability of blankets situation in the albergues you are staying in? I’m currently trying to decide if continuing with the Primitivo after the San Salvador is a good idea or not.

 

[sun is shining]

Hi Kari,
Thanks for the updates, I start the same route in 2 weeks. I have only booked a hostel in Oviedo, was hoping to wing it from there..May have to look a bit closer now.
Buen Camino

I wouldn’t panic just yet and pre-book everything. But maybe try to adjust your walking schedule to stay in-between the popular guidebook / gronze stages.

 

[VNwalking]

18 in the alb, why am I the only woman? Same last night

Dang. Bad luck to be in such a bubble. It can so uncomfortable when that happens.

 

[dbier]

I wouldn’t panic just yet and pre-book everything. But maybe try to adjust your walking schedule to stay in-between the popular guidebook / gronze stages.

:::chuckle::: That's a bit more limiting on the Primitivo in the early stages than on the Frances. Strongly recommend Gronze plus Wise Pilgrim or Buen Camino to see all your possibilities.

The potential is that the bubble poor Kari is stuck in will dissipate soon, as the May 1 holiday ends. Just look out to see if Ascension ( this coming Thursday) or Pentecost (2 Sundays from now) are also public holidays in Spain. Ascension Thursday is a public holiday in Germany...

 

[KariannNor]

Day 5
Campiello - Pola de Allande

Thank you for your support!

A short, but hard walk due to constant rain, a lot of mud and a small phone crisis. Tok me forever some downhills. But, try to be positive. Swish swoosh in the shoes and tramping rain on the head can be seen as a kind of meditation? And isn't it childishly nice to step right into all the pools of mud? But, nice warm temperatures.

Yes, Peter, maybe a shame to miss Hospitales, but I didn't come for the views you know. And when it's dense fog and you're trying not not look more than you have to out of the poncho, not much fun anyway.

Comfortable hotel tonight with a hairdryer for the Hokaes. I probably look like a poor alien with absolutely no pilgrim uniform, no zipoff or belly belt, bladders or boots. And only old worn out clothes I can throw if I like.

Well, now I want to tell the web out there forever. I don't judge anyone. But, no matter how old or how hard it will be for my body to walk. I will never ever take a bus/taxi around to the traditional stops, occupy albergues and tell the world I did the Camino. Will never sit there with my stamp on my paper with wine and enjoy life and watch wet tired people come in after hours of walking. Spain has plenty of other places I want to be a tourist. For me, the Camino is walking. An ancient, sacred tradition I pray will be protected.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Yes, Peter, maybe a shame to miss Hospitales, but I didn't come for the views you know. And when it's dense fog and you're trying not not look more than you have to out of the poncho, not much fun anyway.

I think you misunderstood me. I mean it was a shame to miss that walk, because it's completely through farmland etc and a little wilder, not because of the views. I know you were keen to get away from the roads and that's exactly what the Hospitales does.

You may recall that I was trying to discourage you from taking the Hospitales for exactly the reasons you ultimately did - the weather!

 

[KariannNor]

I think you misunderstood me. I mean it was a shame to miss that walk, because it's completely through farmland etc and a little wilder, not because of the views. I know you were keen to get away from the roads and that's exactly what the Hospitales does.

You may recall that I was trying to discourage you from taking the Hospitales for exactly the reasons you ultimately did - the weather!

Ok, I understand

 

[KariannNor]

A controversial statement I had maybe shouldn't be a place people seek advice on a specific route. Sorry that.

So, to those of you wondering if Primitivo is for you, DO IT! Don't be put off by the ups and downs, it only comes down to one thing, take your time, whatever that is. This is the most beautiful scenery I have seen in this wonderful country.

Lesson today: plastic cover on phone!!

 

[OxfordHiker]

Hi Kari, do I detect some joy in your message tonight. .......I certainly hope so, its a shame about the weather you are dealing with but as you said you can look at the fun side. Hope you have a great stay tonight and have a great day tomorrow
Buen Camino Pilgrim

 

[KariannNor]

Dau 6

Pola de Allande - Grandas de Salime

A long, but what a beautiful day! And what a difference the weather can make. Sun breaking through the fog, wow, so many wonderful scenery..

Too tired to give a detailed description. Fortunately well marked all the way and no need for apps, my phone is still suffering from some disease. And it's a bit scary, suddenly I can't press it at all. Tried all the tricks to dry out, will try again tonight with the rice trick. So strange how different cultures are. For a short while I walked with someone from Holland. He is a matathon runner and was super fast on the flat, I fast up, very funny. On the dowhills I take it super super slow, but the way down has been zig-zag roads, so it's going well. It has been a pleasure all the way, many stops and a lunch date with Rudolf and my thermos (which Peter bullies and says is only a "cup"). This must be experienced, fantastic beautiful nature!

I would like to have the attitude that "there is always a bed, just go in and ask", but I feel a bit stressed about it when there are so many people and so many places full
. In a supernice alb tonight. And thank you Peter, so thankful to get the recommendations and advices all the way. Have booked, 4km after Fonsgrada tomorrow, so much easier for me to walk when I know I have a place to stay. Very in doubt about what to do after Lugo or Feirreira. Salvador (with repaired or new phone it has to be), Invierno, Ingles or what.. what a luxory..

Pucture 1 is the only place of confusion marking yesterday, into Pola, what do you do when see this in a split?

 

[VNwalking]

Swish swoosh in the shoes and tramping rain on the head can be seen as a kind of meditation?

Absolutely, it is!

And isn't it childishly nice to step right into all the pools of mud? But, nice warm temperatures.

Also a wholehearted yes!

Lesson today: plastic cover on phone!!

Uh-oh...........

Very in doubt about what to do after Lugo or Feirreira. Salvador (with repaired or new phone it has to be), Invierno, Ingles or what.. what a luxory

The walk between Lugo and Melide is lovely but quite a bit of tarmac. Still...lovely. I stayed in Ferreira at Albergue Ponte Ferreira, a very nice place.

From Melide you could actually find your way due South to the Invierno. A day's walk - 29kms - from Melide gets you close to Lalin, then 3 days into Santiago.


Or more straightforward would be Melide back to Ponferrada for the whole Invierno or Leon for the San Salvador.

 

[KariannNor]

Try again

 

[Simperegrina]

Try again

Super-stylish placemat, I must say

 

[sun is shining]

Salvador

The San Salvador is a fantastic Camino but be prepared for a couple of things:

- no railings at the upper bunks in Cabanillas
- railings only on one side in Poladura and Llamos (but there are lots of beds so it’s highly unlikely that you need to get a upper bunk)
- it’s cold! I’ve been wearing (Lightl gloves for the last couple of days in the mountains but the weather is meant to get better
- confirm food for Poladura and Pajares before you leave Pola de Gordon (so even if it’s two / three days in advance). We nearly got caught out by a surprise closure of the restaurant in Poladura
- some steep descents. You said that you walk slow on the downhills so factor that into your time plannings.
- definitely use the 2022 Ender Guide - almost all info is still spot on and it’s so much more detailed than any of the apps.

 

[David Tallan]

:::chuckle::: That's a bit more limiting on the Primitivo in the early stages than on the Frances. Strongly recommend Gronze plus Wise Pilgrim or Buen Camino to see all your possibilities.

To be fair, it is exactly what I intend to do on my next Camino Primitivo (since the Salvador/Primitivo combo is one I will definitely repeat). It seems that some of the best places to stay, by many reports, are between the established stages that I stuck to in the early part of my Primitivo.

 

[KariannNor]

Day 7 - Grandas de Salime - Pineiral

I really loved G de S, small cozy village with an old church and charming cafees. Had a tasty good octopus at a lokal bar. Stayed at the very nice 15E alb De Grandas. The lady even folded my clothes nicely in the closet after wash/dry.

Now at Compleio O Pineiral, a fabolous place some km after Fonsgrada (thank you so much recommending this for me last night, Peter). Felt calm having prebooket.

Wow, one of the most beautiful walks I've had here, sun all day. But with my, of course, small crisis.

1. Should have brought boots too, at least another pair of shoes. Some km after G de Salime it went into a field, and me and my Hokaes drowned into mud into the ancels. Didn't make it better it was an electric fenge I grabbed in when falling over. So, got muddy for a while. Sun came up, changed into dry socks and sandals. But of course, more mud and souked again. I'm a viking, but was so so freezing cold at my toes at the top where the windmills are. Tried in my head figuring out what "newspaper" and "plastic bag" could be in spanish. In the end of enternity at the cafe at the Alto something my pair nr 3 had dried, and life was good again. Walked with my very old Eccos rest of the day, but not much stones in the downhills, so ok.

2. Hole day phone-free. 14% when I woke up, so something completely wrong with either the phone or charger. Fortunately no apps needed, well marked all the way. And I think now, that was maybe just what I needed, hole day not any work mail, no calls, just non digital listening to the birds. The Camino gets you what you need, not what you want, right? (well, missed my Spanish course of the day then, and definitely would need that). Met someone who charged for me at the Alto cafe, so puhh, think its just the charging thing. But hey, I can get the pictures from my roomates, am definitely not the selfie type anyway

Then it got awfully hot, and the hours down to, through and after Fonsgrada the sun was suddenly burning, drank bottles of bottles of water. And some girls here are tomato red seriously sunburned.

Thank you so much to my online Mentor Peter and you who have encouricing me to do this route. I now want to officially become a permanent citizen of my pack and do this forever.

Still no idea what to do after Logo, Feirreira or what, trying to get the Camino spirit, take it as it comes.

Now, wine and hopefully some good paella waits.

Will have to unpack and walk with my flag tomorrow to celebrate Liberation Day.

 

[sun is shining]

To be fair, it is exactly what I intend to do on my next Camino Primitivo (since the Salvador/Primitivo combo is one I will definitely repeat). It seems that some of the best places to stay, by many reports, are between the established stages that I stuck to in the early part of my Primitivo.

Thanks! Ive prepared a tentative plan for the Primitivo starting next week and avoiding the main stage towns seems pretty easy. I’ll make an update post once I’ve finished.

 

[Gingerbaldy]

Thanks! Ive prepared a tentative plan for the Primitivo starting next week and avoiding the main stage towns seems pretty easy. I’ll make an update post once I’ve finished.

Hi,
I would be interested in your progress, I am starting my camino on the 19th May.
Buen Camino

 

[OxfordHiker]

Hi Kari, So happy your felling so strong and committed, you did make me laugh about your trip onto the field, so wish somebody could have filmed it .
Hope your phone dries out and works again , nasty things but almost an essential item.
I'm sure you will work out what to do in next section
Best of luck Pilgrim.

 

[KariannNor]

Day 8 Pinueral - O Cadabo Baleira

Stopped counting km, my watch also need to charge.. people says 27km, I don't know, at least know it will be shorter tomorrow for me.

The best and worst walk for me. Started late, 9ish, had breakfast and my hour streching. No stress, short day I thought. Wow, those first hours, so beautiful. Sun all day, some mud but mostly dry. My knee have been a little afraid of the decends, but all slow and nice elevations, and I take babysteps and very very slow. Many people walking when I started late. So funny, I passed them all going up, everyone passed this old women down. But not a sign of pain in my knee, I'm so thankful for that.

Apps says cafe at Paradavella, was closed. So, I ran out of water, my 3 bottles empty. In the end of the next decent it was a farm. I kindly asked the man to fill it up. The woman rolled out the garden roll thing, tried give hrr a coin, of course she got angry, just glad to help. The funny thing for me was that a group of Italian men came down there saw me, and thought it was a water source, and all the group marched in there.

After 13 the sun really started to burn, no wind, too hot for me. Last hours down to O Cadavo thought I would die. But survied and at wonderful albergue San Mateo.

Booked A Pocina de Muniz Hostel in Vilar de Cas tomorrow, 14.5km, half to Lugo. I will be there long before its so hot like now.

But, the best walk and day here. Life is good. Feel blessed to be here and don't want it to end.

 

[OxfordHiker]

Wow, now that sounds like a geeat day and you've early getting into it. So happy for you.
Do you think booking ahead has helped take the stress out, might consider doing it myself.
Have another great day tomorrow
Buen Camino Pilgrim

 

[KariannNor]

9. O Cadabo - Vilar de Cas

Short/rest day
Easy walk, stayed about two hours in beautiful Castroverde doing my old fashion writing in my old fashion notenook, bought a charger, try if that can solve my phone problems. The church was not open. Wow, so beautiful woods. But too hot for me after 12.

Wow, this little village - Villar de Cas - and this albergue A Pocina de Muniz hostel - please make note of this - the most beautiful special place ever!! Have to make a video or something, this I can't describe in big enough words!

The wonderful owner now made a reservation for me in San Roman da Retorta. Will start early to avoid the heat, walk through Lugo, no interest in towns, well maybe walk on the walls (and buy new phone?).

And now the wonderful grandma and boss of the place is making us dinner. More of people walking later, so many different cultures, amazing.

 

[OxfordHiker]

Hi Kari, sounds like everything is getting better by the day, great to hear your having such a good time. Have you a plan for after Melide yet.
Have a great day tomorrow
Buen Camino Pilgrim

 

[KariannNor]

@KariannNor - how is the temperature / availability of blankets situation in the albergues you are staying in? I’m currently trying to decide if continuing with the Primitivo after the San Salvador is a good idea or not.

Sorry late answer. Blankets everywhere I've been, private albergues, not D or M. I like to book in the morning. But use my sleeping bag too thought it always end on the floor.

 

[KariannNor]

10. Vilar de Cas - Lugo

Glad for another short day, privileged to have the time. Easy walk, flat, last hours half dead by heat.

Have to say something about the fabolous people I've met. Several Spanish not yong men walking alone. Walked some km with an 80 year old man, thin and absolutely not healthy looking. But strong as a bull. Humble and impressed by them.

Also so impressed by a 26 year old Polish boy I walked with yesterday from Castroverde. Had really bad hurt his knee in some decents. But pushed and pushed on, with so much pain. Determent to reach Santiago. Felt so sorry for him when I stopped half the way to Lugo. Not in a million years he would take a taxi or bus.

Most people I've met are from Germany, France, all East Europeian countries (Slovakia, Tsjekkia etc..), Switzerland and Spanish of course. Only one American women.
2/3 are superfit young boys, but left me because of my last short stages. Interesting to see that many think this is an easy route. It is not.

At a ok hostel with a garden, sit do my old fashion writing trying to cool down. This is too hot.

Thank you Peter trying help with train booking for tomorrow. All trains full. Have a bus ticket. Don't like plane and bus, claustrofobic. Well, time to reader Enders guide for Salvador then. Hope the bus has a toilet.

Go find Declaton now for boots and shorts and search for a good paella.

 

[KariannNor]

The San Salvador is a fantastic Camino but be prepared for a couple of things:

- no railings at the upper bunks in Cabanillas
- railings only on one side in Poladura and Llamos (but there are lots of beds so it’s highly unlikely that you need to get a upper bunk)
- it’s cold! I’ve been wearing (Lightl gloves for the last couple of days in the mountains but the weather is meant to get better
- confirm food for Poladura and Pajares before you leave Pola de Gordon (so even if it’s two / three days in advance). We nearly got caught out by a surprise closure of the restaurant in Poladura
- some steep descents. You said that you walk slow on the downhills so factor that into your time plannings.
- definitely use the 2022 Ender Guide - almost all info is still spot on and it’s so much more detailed than any of the apps.

Thank you so much, really helpfull for me.

 

[OxfordHiker]

hi, seems you have met a wide verity of people on your journey. glad to see you are carrying on.
Where ever you go i wish you the very best of luck and hope your enjoyment continues
Good Luck Pilgrim

 

[KariannNor]

I love the man at the Tourist Office. This is a map I can like.

 

[KariannNor]

Have to learn this

 

[chinacat]

@KariannNor

Have you thought of getting an umbrella to use as a sunshade?
… and in the rain, of course.
You can fix any umbrella to your pack shoulder straps.
It would make a real difference to the temperature around your head and shoulders.

Buen Camino!

 

[KariannNor]

@KariannNor

Have you thought of getting an umbrella to use as a sunshade?
… and in the rain, of course.
You can fix any umbrella to your pack shoulder straps.
It would make a real difference to the temperature around your head and shoulders.

Buen Camino!

That is absolutely a good tip, will consider.

 

[chinacat]

We northern Europeans do suffer in excess heat

 

[KariannNor]

Summary Primitivo
Oviedo - Lugo

Do not really feel I have "done it", but too much people and too hot. So on a bus to Leon. Many "do the 100's" walking from here.

Thank you for info and support. Will just add some.

1. Learn the typical phrases (can you call for me to/help me with ect..). Put on a big smile "Lo siento" and "porfavor" and most people are angels.

2. Don't trust the apps in terms of cafees, water sources etc. Seen many places closed or "open at 12" etc. So bring some food/snacks, water etc for your hole day. A km flat can be totally different for you then up/down, so things can take more time.

3. This is no wilderness, there are houses, farms and small villages, so there is help available if needed.

4. Bus/taxi options all stages (exept Borres-Berducedo). Met some who did a combo, walk some/bus some.

5. Albergues. Many alternatives, I liked them in between the typical stages best. If I should choose one to recommend most:

A Pocina de Muniz Hostel in Vilar de Cas
Authentic, stonebuilding, luxory bath/bunks, art everywhere, lovely garden, so much space, so sweet hospitaleros family. Staying, great dinner and breakfast 42 euro.

Got lowest bed every night. Someone called for me the night before or I explained politely in mail. They are so sweet and helpful.

 

[Gingerbaldy]

Hi Kari,
I have enjoyed your posts, thank you for sharing your honest experiences.
I am starting the Primitivo next Sunday and looking forward to it, I hope to stay away from the electric fences though..

 

[KariannNor]

Hi Kari,
I have enjoyed your posts, thank you for sharing your honest experiences.
I am starting the Primitivo next Sunday and looking forward to it, I hope to stay away from the electric fences though..

Wish you all the best and a wonderful walk. So beautiful nature, will do it again and the hole, but must be winter time.

Buen Camino

 

[sun is shining]

Hi Kari,
Thanks for the updates, I start the same route in 2 weeks. I have only booked a hostel in Oviedo, was hoping to wing it from there..May have to look a bit closer now.
Buen Camino

I’ve sent you a PM

 

[OxfordHiker]

Well done, well done, well done, cant say much more.
Liked your comment sheet and agree about many things, particularly the "In between Albergues".
I will certainly be doing that in September .
Keep it up and enjoy the Salvador

Buen Camino Pilgrim

 

[AK2112]

Thanks! Ive prepared a tentative plan for the Primitivo starting next week and avoiding the main stage towns seems pretty easy. I’ll make an update post once I’ve finished.

Hello!
I might be interested in that plan of yours. I did the Primitivo in April last year, followed the stops that gronze.com suggested. I am think of doing it again in a couple of weeks, stopping in other places would be part of the reason to go back.

Buen Camino!

Cheers.

 

[AK2112]

@KariannNor only now I found out that you are from Norway :-D

Det er morsomt å lese det du skriver, du har åpenbart en litt annen opplevelse av Primitivo enn den jeg hadde i april-23

Hvor langt har du kommet nå?

Buen Camino, peregrina!