Looking for answers to planning questions

[JohnRushforth]

I have just completed the Camino Frances and loved every km of the trip - even the stretch after Sarria Whilst walking to Finisterre the idea of walking the Via de la Plata next year 2018 grew on me. I have started the planning and would welcome your thoughts and answers to a few questions.

1) What is the section from Cadiz to Seville like? - love the idea of walking from the Med to the Atlantic.

2) How early in September is practical to start due to heat?

3) How fluent in Spanish do I need to be - currently my Spanish is minimal. I plan to learn but would 11 months of practice be enough?

4) I am not great with dogs and seems they could be an issue but how much? has anybody used ultrasonic dog scarers?

Thanks for any advice

 

[Kanga]

Welcome to the forum @Fudwicket - and I'm sure you will get lots of advice! I'm no good on the Vdlp - it is the camino that has defeated me (so far). But still thinking of walking it sometime, in early spring.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Here are a few thoughts.

1) Cadiz to Sevilla is th Via Augusta and here is some info on it: https://www.gronze.com/via-augusta

I believe we read comments about it on the Forum recently, the consensus being ot was too hot, too lonely, with not enough infrastructure even for Camino addicts. Bit do a search on the Forum and you can get it from the horse’s mouth and communicate directly woth those with experience.

2) Sevilla onwards in September. Someone posted about it last week and it was still too hot. That’s middle of October. It’s 30degrees at the moment, I walked in those temps starting April 1st and it was as hot as i wanted it to get. it depends on how you tolerate the heat, and how you feel about carrying kgs and kgs of water. I also carried a reflecting umbrela and walked shortish days, not wanting to be out there much past 1 pm. I do not do well in the heat. I carried 3 liters, sometimes I added gazpacho and tonic water, and therewere times where I was running uncomfortably low by 1pm.

3) I walked from Sevilla to Galisteo and did not come across a single loose dog.

4) Spanish: frankly 8 would think you need the same basic level as you need on the Frances: polite greetings, pointing at the menu, asking for a bed? The school system is the same (minus local languages) through out the countrym so I would expect everyone has the same basic know,edge of Spanish regardless of the route. I also do not recall anyone having an issue not being fluent in Spanish. Lots of French, Dutch, Scandinavians, anglophones on VDLP. I’m sure you’ll be just fine.

It’s a beautiful Camino. You know your clothes will be dry in the morning. Interesting towns and cities to visit along the way, much better food than on the Frances and excellent albergues at a ridiculously low price. Very little not to like.

 

[Carlos Santiago]

Comparative temperatures, etc.

https://weatherspark.com/compare/y/...-of-the-Average-Weather-in-Burgos-and-Sevilla

 

[Sparrow in Texas]

Hello, Fudwicket, regarding dogs...most of the dogs in the rural areas are working or herding dogs. They have above average intelligence and have a job to do, usually guarding their livestock and property. If they threaten you it is because they want you to leave their property, which you should do as you are able. These dogs have "one event learning" meaning that what they learn from one encounter will carry on through their life. Often, throwing rocks or using an "ultrasonic dog scarer" (please do not use one) might frighten the dog away that one time, but long term can have the opposite effect and only embolden the dog for its next encounter with a stranger or pilgrim.


So, my suggestions: If you throw anything, throw a bocadillo off to the side away from you so that the dog has to go in that direction to get it. I do speak Spanish and will talk to the dogs and tell them all sorts of nice things like how wonderful, intelligent, and beautiful they are. That approach one time earned me a personal guide from a beautiful Border collie through her village and safe passage beyond another barking dog.

If you are stuck in place try calling out to the owner, or even waiting for another pilgrim to walk with you. Walk confidently and think like a dog!

 

[domigee]

4) I am not great with dogs and seems they could be an issue but how much? has anybody used ultrasonic dog scarers?

Thanks for any advice

Hi Fudwicket and welcome! I walked from Mérida to Santiago and never met a loose, threatening dog, maybe I was lucky or maybe it was just too hot for them (It was in June). From my experience, it is not a Camino where dogs are a problem, others may disagree?
I carried a dog dazzer going through other countries but not in Spain. I am not sure they are that reliable when faced with really dangerous dogs, I don't know... It just gave me some 'Dutch courage' but my sticks proved more useful.
The one thing that scared me in Extremadura was having to cross fields with thousands of cows But I think it is just me...
Happy planning!

 

[Threepeaks]

Hi @Fudwicket
I can't offer any feedback on the heat in September or the route from Cadiz. For what it's worth it was very hot in Seville in early April.
Like others have commented - I never encountered any loose or threatening dogs at any point along the route. In fact, this is the first I'm even thinking of it. Where were the dogs?

As for Spanish - mine is very limited. Nothing beyond greetings, ordering a meal and booking a room. The difference between the VDLP and Frances is not having the resource of other pilgrims to assist with language when and if necessary. I also found that on the Frances there would be a bit of give and take - whatever it was I was trying to say in Spanish someone had tried to say it the same way a hundred times before me. On the VDLP - that's not the case. There just aren't as many pilgrims. That said - don't allow language to interfere with your plans and whatever you learn between now and next September will serve you well.

Enjoy the planning and Buen Camino!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

@threepaks,

I walked for a few days with a man, his mule and his dog. Also quite a number of dogs in towns and villages, especially Cao de agua for some reason. None were leashed but they also didn’t bother anyone. In fact this tiny white thing really enjoyed the churro we gave him. I do not recall any working dogs, saw many more of those on the Primitivo.

 

[sharon w]

We encountered 2 dogs on the first day out of Sevilla. They were harassing another pilgrim who could not get past them. They were smallish but were going for her ankles. She was trying to get past them for a while. As there were 4 of us with sticks, the dogs skulked off when we got closer. It was outside the dog shelter. Monique did not have sticks so had nothing to use to get rid of them. She had tried picking up a stone and throwing at them but they were still aggressive. Monique then walked with us.

Make sure you carry sticks,lots of water and fruit(helpful if juicy). This is a wonderful route.

 

[LesBrass]

1) What is the section from Cadiz to Seville like?...

I walked with a couple that had started in Cadiz and they said they didn't enjoy that section... it was a means to an end as they too wanted to start on the Med.


2) How early in September is practical to start due to heat?...

I started on 21st September and it was hot. I used a UV umbrella and it made a huge difference.


3) How fluent in Spanish do I need to be...

My spanish is minimal... or less. It wasnt a problem but I wish I could speak more as a lot of people were so friendly and tried to enter into conversations... I am resolved to do better for 2018!


4) I am not great with dogs ...

We came across dogs maybe three times. I am a baby with dogs and cows... the dogs never bothered us and I think the advice here to use poles or pick up a stone is great... the cows never bothered me but crikey I was terrified of them!



I am a huge VdlP fan... I LOVED this walk. It offers so much history and it's beautiful. I blog when walking... so my walk starts here https://caminobrassblog.wordpress.com/2016/09/20/bordeaux-pizza-goodbyes/ (actually I loved this walk so much I'm attempting to write a book about it... I'll let you know how I get on in a year or two )

 

[Donna Sch]

I had 6 months to learn Spanish from scratch. I had learned and forgotten 4 year of high school French and 3 years of Latin. I went full immersion ie changed my FB settings to Spanish, went to night classes once a week, did a module of Duolingo every day, listened to Coffee Break spanish podcasts, and translated what I could whenever I could. When I hit Sevilla they spoke so fast I could barely pick up one word in each sentence. But I knew enough written Spanish to get by.By the end I could pick up most words in a sentence so at least I could now hear the language, and you pick up enough along the way to do the essentials.

Dogs...not an issue. The aggressive ones are kept behind big fences although the buggers like to wait until the last minute sometimes before they bark at you. Remember you are their daily entertainment.The cows all have horns so you do tend to be wary. I was constantly looking for the bull and sometimes when you are in a patch of bush and you hear a bell, you hope it is a goat rather than a bull. But really most of our anxieties are greater than the reality.

 

[domigee]

The cows all have horns so you do tend to be wary. I was constantly looking for the bull and sometimes when you are in a patch of bush and you hear a bell, you hope it is a goat rather than a bull. But really most of our anxieties are greater than the reality.

Absolutely right.

 

[laineylainey]

Yes, I asked a couple of questions the other week about the VDLP and as a result of the advice and previous experience from others on the forum re the possible high temperatures and because I can only go in Sept/Oct, I have decided to skip the first part from Seville and start at Merida. I am going to do it 2 parts (I only have 3 weeks max each trip) Merida to Zamora and the next time Zamora to Santiago (going the Sanabres route).
Re the question speaking Spanish. Since starting to walk in 2012 , I have tried (unsuccessfully!) to learn Spanish at weekly classes. This year on the Primitivo, I met an American pair (just the nicest couple in the world) and he spoke great Spanish when I asked, he told me that he had been a big fan of "mylanguageexchange.com" an intercambio site. I have signed up this last couple of weeks and am now exchanging Spanish with English with 3 different people and for me it is making a HUGE difference in my confidence to speak Spanish and it's a great way of keeping up with current news and culture.
Anyway good luck with your VDLP planning, I can't wait to go!

 

[Jopoke]

I did it this Sept and it was 38° so we walked early. Of course it was only for a few weeks because as you're going North the temperatures drop so you would need 2 sets of clothing unless you purchase further up. I only walked to Salamanca we will finish it in Spring.

The only dogs loose where friendly.

I used Google translate when needed that most of the locals seem to like.

One of my favourite walks. Good luck

 

[susan76]

Hi, I walked the Via de la Plata last year in sept/oct. Started in Sevilla, was planning to start in Cadiz but didn't hear very positive comments about that first part. Met someone on the way who did start in Cadiz and she wasn't too positive about it either.

I started 31st of August. It was extremely hot, up to 44 degrees Celsius. Most annoying thing (depending on your heat tolerance of course) is the amount of water you have to carry, so heavy. Probably better to start a bit later in September, but it can still be extremely hot end of September.

I do speak spanish and was happy i did. Not too much english around. Guess it depends a bit on your way of walking. I walked alone and didn't stay in albergues much, so not a lot of foreigners to talk too, was glad I could talk with the people around. Basic spanish would definitely by helpfull in all those small villages.

I've encountered several dogs but most of them friendly and cute, none of them threatening. I was more worried about the bulls

Enjoy the planning, the VDLP is wonderful!

 

[Portach]

I have just completed the Camino Frances and loved every km of the trip - even the stretch after Sarria Whilst walking to Finisterre the idea of walking the Via de la Plata next year 2018 grew on me. I have started the planning and would welcome your thoughts and answers to a few questions.

1) What is the section from Cadiz to Seville like? - love the idea of walking from the Med to the Atlantic.

2) How early in September is practical to start due to heat?

3) How fluent in Spanish do I need to be - currently my Spanish is minimal. I plan to learn but would 11 months of practice be enough?

4) I am not great with dogs and seems they could be an issue but how much? has anybody used ultrasonic dog scarers?

Thanks for any advice

We are just back from walking Seville to Salamanca and started on 28th September. For us Irish we found the first couple of weeks tough as temperatures were over 30 in the afternoon. Others might have better tolerance of heat. We were constantly told that the weather was normally cooler by early October but I would be very reluctant to start before late September.
We heard very little English on our travels so it was useful to be able to ask about food and phone ahead for accommodation, certainly a level above the 'two coffees' or 'two beers' level of comfort. Eleven months should be plenty of time.
We saw and heard lots of dogs, behind good fences or tied up. We had no incidents.
Happy planning.

 

[CaroleH]

Hi Fudwicket, good choice to walk the VdlP. It's our favourite camino, through all sorts of countryside and with the best 'camino family' bonding.

1) We walked from Huelva on the camino del Sur but have not walked the Via Augusta from Cadiz. Hope to be doing bits of it in 2018 while staying nearby, though the above reports are not so positive for. I can recommend the Camino Sur, but you would miss the Seville-Zafra section.

2) Can't help with the temp. We've always done the VdlP in spring. .. when the wildflowers are glorious. But sounds like Sept can be very hot still.

3) I think that some Spanish language is more important than on the Frances, especially in the smaller towns and villages. Just my opinion after a few VdlPs. However, 11 months learning will be fine for you and it is OK to get by with beginner Spanish.... unless needing to phone ahead to book accomm. and then more Spanish would be better than less.
Overall, the more you can speak the language, the better will be your interaction and enjoyment with the locals and Spanish pilgrims. That said, there are so many Germans and to a slightly lesser extent, French, on the VdlP, I've often wished I could speak German.

4) Dogs. As more and more pilgs walk a route, the dogs become used to them and are less of a problem. In 2006, we had trouble with dogs on the VdlP and had one really scary, dangerous encounter, but by 2011 there was a noticeable difference. Dogs were not generally a problem. The larger guard dogs were behind large fences and only rarely barked at us. Little yappy pooches in towns can still be a nuisance but not scary and not really a problem. They're generally all bluff. Hiking sticks are a great safe guard and the 'pretend to pick up a stone' and throw' trick can be useful.

The number of albergues has increased since 2006, like every route, tho there are still some long stretches over 25km (long for me) without options. Casa Rurales are a delightful alternative to albergues. (25-40Euro) if needed.

Domigee, I find crossing fields of cows, esp if there is a bull or two, worries me as well, even tho I live in the middle of a dairy farm in OZ. !! Cow bells are gorgeous especially when there's a fence between you and their source.
Highly recommend the VdlP Fudwick. You'll love it. Buen camino.