LIVE from the Camino My Camino de San Salvador

[David Tallan]

Note from the Moderators:
For Days 1-23 of @David Tallan’s 2023 Camino (Camino de Madrid to Sahagún, then Sahagún to León on the Francés) read this thread.

Day 24: León to La Robla (San Salvador Day 1)
31.5 km +2 walking around town

Got up at a usual Camino hour and was out if the hotel at 6ish. There was a stream of Pilgrims on the street, because the albergue is on the Camino Frances, and 6ish is a popular time for pilgrims to hit the road. I joined the flow until we reached the parador where the San Salvador splits off. I figured I would proceed on my own while everyone else went on the Frances, but lo and behold, two Spanish pilgrims split off we me and we set off together.

I was using Ender's Guide and tracks but the route was well marked and the fellow seemed to be checking the tracks on his phone pretty often so I didn't bother with my phone all that much. We took the river route out of Leon so it was pretty nice walking, not industrial suburbs like the way into Leon.

After we had been walking by the river for a while, the arrows and my companions GPS took us away from the river and into the suburb of Carbajal de la Legua. This is where the difference in GPS tracks comes in. My companions were using the Gronze tracks and I was using the Ender tracks. Had I been paying more attention, we could have walked along the river for another half hour or so instead of through suburban streets.

After Carbajal, you leave the paved road behind and walk about 10 km up and down hills through forests. It is very pretty. There was a mirador (viewpoint) where we stopped for a rest and a bite to eat (chocolate for me, sandwiches for them). I was shocked to see three or four pilgrims walk by in the few minutes while we were resting. I had thought thus was a little travelled route, like the Madrid. Apparently, it gets significantly more traffic. Along the way through the woods there were a couple of pilgrim "mailboxes" with some first aid supplies and a book to write in. I stamped them.

After the woods and hills, there were a couple of villages we passed through, and one between them that we passed by (we could have crossed the bridge to enter the village, and visit the bar, which might have been open, but we just continued on the Camino. We passed through Cabanillas and Cascante, and rested in each, but there were no bars open for a coffee or a snack. In fact, the same had been true for Carbajal.

Whole had been walking with them more at the beginning, they tended to lag further and further behind me as the day wore on. I would wait after a while until they were in sight again or until they caught up if we were at a decision point, and then continue on, giving them their space. At the entry to La Robla there is a church. I waited a bit and then, when I didn't see them, went down quickly to see it it was open (it wasn't) and then back up. I waited a while after that but they never appeared. I figured maybe they had passed me while I was checking on the church, so I went on to the albergue at the other end of town.

The albergue was open and there was a sign on the door saying that the hospitalera would be by at 6:00 (actually, she came closer to 5:00). There were backpacks and signs that bunks had been claimed, but no one was about. I claimed a bunk and headed into town to get something to eat. Once again, Google lied about what was available and open, but a local steered me to a bar that had platos combinados (combination plates, like a cheaper, simpler version of the daily menu all on one plate - mine was chicken, eggs, and fries). While I was at the restaurant, I reserved a bed and a meal for tomorrow at the Posada el Embrujo in Poladura de la Tercia (they have a €15 pilgrim rate for pilgrims in hostel style rooms with two beds). After that, I went to a supermarket to get some food supplies to get me through to supper tomorrow.

Then it was back to the albergue for a shower and laundry. It was late when the laundry was done so I hope it dries. It is quite windy but in the shade. Then lying down for a rest which brings us to the present.

The pilgrims I walked with don't seem to have checked into this albergue. I hope they have somewhere else to stay (maybe a double room) and are all right. I'm a bit worried by how they just disappeared.


Photos below:
- First marker on the San Salvador, by the parador
- Looking back at the suburbs of Leon
- There were many of these little religious shrines ticked into trees as we walked through the woods today
- View from the mirador
- Walking through the woods
- Buen Camino, peregrino (Cabanillas)

 

[David Tallan]

I've got to admit one thing I found very confusing about this route was the constant signage telling me I was on the Via de la Plata.


The Spanish pilgrims I was with explained I was on the Roman Road VDLP, not to be confused with the Camino de Santiago VDLP.

 

[peregrina2000]

, I reserved a bed and a meal for tomorrow at the Posada el Embrujo in Poladura de la Tercia (they have a €15 pilgrim rate for pilgrims in hostel style rooms with two beds).

I think this is a new development. I know that there was a change in ownership,maybe a year or two ago, and I wonder when it started. Good to have more options there, so now there’s the albergue, the Posada’s shared rooms, and the regular old Casa Rural. Seems like their business is focusing more and more on pilgrims, which I think is the way to go. I’ve been there two or three times and never saw anyone other than a peregrino staying there.

 

[peregrina2000]

The pilgrims I walked with don't seem to have checked into this albergue. I hope they have somewhere else to stay (maybe a double room) and are all right. I'm a bit worried by how they just disappeared

They may have taken the alternative route into La Robla, which doesn’t go by that church. Or gone to a pensión. Or walked on to Pola de Gordón, which is what most people who walk this route in 4 days do.

Several possibilities, so don’t worry!

 

[Former member 104756]

Fabulous days ahead @David Tallan Buen Camino de San Salvador

 

[Dani7]

I too had many disappointments with google maps telling me the restaurants or establishments were open. Unless the owner updates his opening/closing hours…we end up with these surprises. So happy (and a bit envious) of your beautiful walk(s).

 

[trecile]

You've seen a lot more pilgrims than I did in my first day on the Salvador - I walked with one Spanish pilgrim for about a half hour before La Robla!

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

Just to note that while the river route is very pretty, it does not offer a gas-station with small tienda (complete with decent espresso based drinks, tortilla, and provisions). I think that the station I am think of is about 6 K out of Leon, just at the municipality limits and if you go that way you don’t have to carry provisions for those 6 k, can stop at a clean WC, and grab a decent little breakfast at a later hour than the crack of dawn.

Everyone will make their own choices, but the suburban route does offer the ability to provision oneself later in the day with food that will be fresher than the banana in the pocket from the day before.

@David Tallan — how did you find that super steep, brief, but sometimes broiling climb after the hospital ruin?

Do enjoy the Salvador; it’s just amazing. Will you stay in Llanos/Chanos? Loved that spot!

Pro tip: I learned on the Primitivo Hospitales this time that if a cow is in the path you can approach it toward its side at roughly the belly location and it will just move on. Do not come up behind or face on…

 

[rojasa]

Buen camino, David…bringing back great memories of this amazing pilgrimage. Been enjoying your posts on the CdM; looking forward to following you on this part. Ender’s tireless work seems to have made the route more accessible (I know I could not have walked without his guide), which might account for the increase in pilgrims.

 

[David Tallan]

Buen camino, David…bringing back great memories of this amazing pilgrimage. Been enjoying your posts on the CdM; looking forward to following you on this part. Ender’s tireless work seems to have made the route more accessible (I know I could not have walked without his guide), which might account for the increase in pilgrims.

It is actually very well signed/marked/whatever the verb is now. I was just discussing that with another pilgrim who is just using the arrows and some GPS tracks.

 

[BombayBill]

All Creatures Great and SmalI….I’m interested in you testing the theory that cows are best approached from the side as well as the topic of flies which seems to be the crisis of the week here on the forum.

The only time I became really annoyed by flies was the last grunt up and over the top on the Salvador. Maybe flies should be approached from the side as well.

Buen Camino.

 

[WisTom]

I walked this year from Mar 28-Apr 1. I didn't see any other pilgrims on the route, making me the only non-local in Poladura and Pajares when I passed through those towns. I am grateful to Angel at the Posada el Embrujo for cooking me a full menú even though I was the only diner that night and for his hospitality in general. A solitary, but beautiful, walk.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 25: La Robla to Poladura de la Tercia (San Salvador Day 2)
25.2 km

What a glorious day!

Woke up at about 6 am, and what with getting my stuff ready (I was leaving it to dry from the night before) I was on the road at about 7. It was pretty cold. I even got out my puffy jacket (which I had been beginning to think would go home unused) and walked in it for the first hour. Even now, at 3:00 in the afternoon, my phone us telling me it us only 16°. It really is cooler in the mountains.

The first bit of walking is along the road, although it until too long before that road is by a river and some nice rock formations to give the walk some interest. After about 5 km, it switches to dirt roads. About 4 km later, at about 9 am, I arrived at La Pola de Gordón, just in time for some breakfast at El Mesón de Miguel, where I had a large cafe con leche and a very generous pincho of tortilla. From La Pola de Gordón there is another 5.6 km of road walking, through nice mountain scenery, and through the pretty village of Beberino (where the church was open! But they had no stamp for my credencial - alas) until you arrive at Buiza. As I entered Beberino, I discovered that I also seemed to be on the Camino Olvidado, although the yellow arrows of the Olvidado were pointing in the opposite direction to the yellow arrows of the San Salvador.

It is after Buiza that it really gets spectacular, when you leave the roads, paved and unpaved, behind and follow the paths up into the mountains. The first 3 km or so are climbing up to the San Anton pass. It looks a lot worse than it is on the elevation maps. There is really only one steep part, and that doesn't last too long. The rest is just a good, steady climb. And boy is it ever worth it! The view at the pass is incredible. The way down from the pass is not too steep and the views just keep coming. It didn't hurt that we had a nice sunny day, not too hot. I was joined at the pass by a fellow pilgrim, Megan, and walked with her on and off for the rest of the day.

Not only did we have the ongoing splendor if the views, but there were horses all over the place at one point on the way down (including on the path) which was lovely in itself but especially for me because it makes for a video my daughter will love.

When we got to Poladura de la Tercia Megan made her way to the albergue and I went to the Posada where I had taken advantage of the pilgrim special to get a room for €15 (with disposable sheets, albergue style). I had my shower and did my laundry in the sink. Then I cheated and brought it over to the albergue to dry on their rack. Luis, whom I knew from last night, was sitting outside and he told me that he had reserved me a bed at Bendueños for the night after tomorrow, along with him and Megan. I returned the favour and reserved dinner for the three of us for tomorrow. Then I went back to the Posada and started this.

But I was in the middle of this when I heard Luis and Megan downstairs in the bar. I joined them and ordered a tinto de verano. We sat outside for a while and formed a WhatsApp group and were joined by Jerry (also from the albergue last night), who seems to be under a vow of silence for thus Camino, and who also joined our WhatsApp group. While we were talking, a flock of sheep was herded by, which of course I had to capture for my daughter, joined by Megan. Eventually they headed back to the albergue to officially sign in at six. Luis and Megan will be back for dinner at seven. I will pick up my (hopefully dry) laundry after dinner. Which brings us to now. It's been a great day!

Photos below:
- a look back at Pola de Gordón
- inside the church in Beberino
- the wolf guarding the entrance to Buiza
- me at the alto of San Anton
- winding path along the mountainside
- horses on the trail
- painted pilgrim points the way (San Martín de la Tercia)

 

[BruceNZ]

We three Kiwis did this in May albeit a wee bit shorter days. So good to follow your walk. If u get this in time there is a big ex hotel at Puerto de Pajores - looks closed but the bar/cafe is open. Great coffee and great views. Then walk down the road - a bit dodgy but no far and the track alternative is er horrible.

 

[NadineK]

I just walked this route last summer (and that was for the 2nd time!) but reading your posts makes me want to go back!! Beautiful description and photos, thank you.

 

[David Tallan]

I just walked this route last summer (and that was for the 2nd time!) but reading your posts makes me want to go back!! Beautiful description and photos, thank you.

I watched your videos. They helped me decide where to make my stage stops.

 

[Tom Conklin]

Thank you so much for this David. I am hoping to do the Salvador this fall, perhaps after the Vadiniense and the first part of the Norte. I know, that is an ambitious haul, but what's the fun if you don't test your mettle?

You have mentioned the terrain here, but if you could add a bit more detail it would be really appreciated. That is probably asking a lot and I can't really think of what you might offer, but if something strikes you, it would be appreciated.

All the best.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 26: Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares (San Salvador Day 3)
19 km

Today was a more challenging day, but with the challenges came rewards.

Leaving Poladura shortly after 7, I passed a very cute art exhibit of painted rocks on a rock wall.

It wasn't too long before I left the road behind and started up the mountainside. The views were great, as I expected, having been very nice from within the town. At one point I wasn't quite sure which way to go, but fortunately that happened to be when Megan passed me (she tends to walk faster than me) and it was obvious from where she was.

The first part of the day's walk was the climb to the Cross of San Salvador, a major landmark of this route. On the elevation profile, that looked to be the major climb of the day, although it doesn't take you to the high point of the day in terms of altitude. It was a strenuous climb, but nit too bad. I stopped there for a few minutes to drink some water and take some photos and videos and even (gasp!) a selfie with the monument. Then it was continue on around the corner and up to a higher point.

From that point, the path wound down and up and down through the mountains around various valleys towards Arbas and its Collegiate Church. Near the end of this portion, I was walking for a while with a small herd of cattle, six in front of me and three behind. Unfortunately, the church was closed when I got there. I had heard you can get the key in the bar about a km down the road, but one bar was closed (for sale) and the other, a little further down the road just on the other side of the Asturian border, didn't know anything about it. Nevertheless, I had a nice breakfast there of a small cafe con leche, fresh squeezed orange juice, and toast with tomato. This place was in an old building that apparently used to be a parador. It had a balcony with amazing views across the Asturian mountains.

After breakfast, I headed back to rejoin the camino, climbing up through a cow pasture. At the end of this bit you descend to a bit of dirt road that is under construction. You walk a short distance along the dirt road and then turn left by some electricity towers. This is where they day really took a turn to the challenging. All the previous climbs weren't so bad.

It happened when I stepped onto that dirt road. I though I was stepping onto some wet dirt. I was actually stepping into a knee deep pool of mud. The difference between expectation and reality caused me to lose my balance and I ended up stepping in with both feet to avoid falling in entirely. As it was, both feet and legs up to the knees, along with my left hiking pole and hand were entirely coated with mud. And that was how I walked the next section, which involved a long and steep descent through a meadow to a highway you cross and another steep descent. But near the top here was a large, deep trough, constantly being filled withvand pouring forth excess water. This lookedclike a good place to wash off my shoes and socks and hiking poles, and the lower part of my trousers (which zip off just above the knee). So I stoppedcthere for a while and washed off everything I could as well as I could. I lay things out to dry in the sun for 15 or 20 minutes and then reassembled things and set off again, figuring they could finish drying while I walked. Unfortunately, in the process I lost the rubber tip of my left hiking pole, so my poles will be clicking for the next few days until I can acquire new tips, which I hope to be able to do in Oviedo.

(The fruit and veg van just pulled up into this village, so I went out and bought a couple of large apples and peaches for €2 and am eating an apple while writing this.)

After the next steep descent, I ended up at the fork where you decide whether you are going to Pajares or San Miguel. I took the route to Pajares, where I am staying the night. It is a narrow footpath along the side of the mountain. It can be slippery with loose stones, and muddy, and steep in places. But the views were spectacular of the green Asturian mountain ranges. Probably not great for someone with a fear of heights, though.

After a while, it headed into deep forest. The trail marking was still pretty good, though. Although I did manage to lose it at one point, I found my way back to it again. After the forest was another descent through a meadow. Then a country road, a narrow path, a road again leading to and through Pajares, which brought me to the albergue where Megan and Luis were waiting. All accompanied by the stunning views of the green Asturian mountains which we can see from the albergue window.

First order of business upon arrival was obviously cleaning: myself, my clothes, my shoes. Once that was all drying, I could think about other things. Both Megan and Luis had also fallen victim to the mud puddle, although apparently they found a shallower spot to step in, and both had used that trough for a rinse. Their shoes were out drying when I arrived.

We headed to the bar for a drink and a snack (empanadas de casera) and are now resting before our dinner at 7. We are the only three at the albergue. Jerry has walked further today.

All in all, another great day, with some good exercise but not too difficult, fabulous scenery, and a little bit of adventure thrown in.

Photos below:
- cute rocks leaving Poladura
- looking up to the Cross of San Salvador
- walking alongside the valleys
- cows joining me on the route before Arbás
- view with my breakfast
- view from the narrow path
- into the woods
- view from the albergue window

 

[Tom Conklin]

Day 26: Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares (San Salvador Day 3)
19 km

Today was a more challenging day, but with the challenges came rewards.

Leaving Poladura shortly after 7, I passed a very cute art exhibit of painted rocks on a rock wall.

It wasn't too long before I left the road behind and started up the mountainside. The views were great, as I expected, having been very nice from within the town. At one point I wasn't quite sure which way to go, but fortunately that happened to be when Megan passed me (she tends to walk faster than me) and it was obvious from where she was.

The first part of the day's walk was the climb to the Cross of San Salvador, a major landmark of this route. On the elevation profile, that looked to be the major climb of the day, although it doesn't take you to the high point of the day in terms of altitude. It was a strenuous climb, but nit too bad. I stopped there for a few minutes to drink some water and take some photos and videos and even (gasp!) a selfie with the monument. Then it was continue on around the corner and up to a higher point.

From that point, the path wound down and up and down through the mountains around various valleys towards Arbas and its Collegiate Church. Near the end of this portion, I was walking for a while with a small herd of cattle, six in front of me and three behind. Unfortunately, the church was closed when I got there. I had heard you can get the key in the bar about a km down the road, but one bar was closed (for sale) and the other, a little further down the road just on the other side of the Asturian border, didn't know anything about it. Nevertheless, I had a nice breakfast there of a small cafe con leche, fresh squeezed orange juice, and toast with tomato. This place was in an old building that apparently used to be a parador. It had a balcony with amazing views across the Asturian mountains.

After breakfast, I headed back to rejoin the camino, climbing up through a cow pasture. At the end of this bit you descend to a bit of dirt road that is under construction. You walk a short distance along the dirt road and then turn left by some electricity towers. This is where they day really took a turn to the challenging. All the previous climbs weren't so bad.

It happened when I stepped onto that dirt road. I though I was stepping onto some wet dirt. I was actually stepping into a knee deep pool of mud. The difference between expectation and reality caused me to lose my balance and I ended up stepping in with both feet to avoid falling in entirely. As it was, both feet and legs up to the knees, along with my left hiking pole and hand were entirely coated with mud. And that was how I walked the next section, which involved a long and steep descent through a meadow to a highway you cross and another steep descent. But near the top here was a large, deep trough, constantly being filled withvand pouring forth excess water. This lookedclike a good place to wash off my shoes and socks and hiking poles, and the lower part of my trousers (which zip off just above the knee). So I stoppedcthere for a while and washed off everything I could as well as I could. I lay things out to dry in the sun for 15 or 20 minutes and then reassembled things and set off again, figuring they could finish drying while I walked. Unfortunately, in the process I lost the rubber tip of my left hiking pole, so my poles will be clicking for the next few days until I can acquire new tips, which I hope to be able to do in Oviedo.

(The fruit and veg van just pulled up into this village, so I went out and bought a couple of large apples and peaches for €2 and am eating an apple while writing this.)

After the next steep descent, I ended up at the fork where you decide whether you are going to Pajares or San Miguel. I took the route to Pajares, where I am staying the night. It is a narrow footpath along the side of the mountain. It can be slippery with loose stones, and muddy, and steep in places. But the views were spectacular of the green Asturian mountain ranges. Probably not great for someone with a fear of heights, though.

After a while, it headed into deep forest. The trail marking was still pretty good, though. Although I did manage to lose it at one point, I found my way back to it again. After the forest was another descent through a meadow. Then a country road, a narrow path, a road again leading to and through Pajares, which brought me to the albergue where Megan and Luis were waiting. All accompanied by the stunning views of the green Asturian mountains which we can see from the albergue window.

First order of business upon arrival was obviously cleaning: myself, my clothes, my shoes. Once that was all drying, I could think about other things. Both Megan and Luis had also fallen victim to the mud puddle, although apparently they found a shallower spot to step in, and both had used that trough for a rinse. Their shoes were out drying when I arrived.

We headed to the bar for a drink and a snack (empanadas de casera) and are now resting before our dinner at 7. We are the only three at the albergue. Jerry has walked further today.

All in all, another great day, with some good exercise but not too difficult, fabulous scenery, and a little bit of adventure thrown in.

Photos below:
- cute rocks leaving Poladura
- looking up to the Cross of San Salvador
- walking alongside the valleys
- cows joining me on the route before Arbás
- view with my breakfast
- view from the narrow path
- into the woods
- view from the albergue window

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This is really helpful, and Camino-provoking. Did you do the shorter stage because of the terrain or the availability of resources?

 

[peregrina2000]

Unfortunately, the church was closed when I got there. I had heard you can get the key in the bar about a km down the road, but one bar was closed (for sale) and the other, a little further down the road just on the other side of the Asturian border, didn't know anything about it.

I am sorry to hear this. I must be very lucky because I have walked into that church on at least three or four different occasions. How annoying!

I thought you were headed to Bendueños today, but I re-read your post to see that it’s for tomorrow. Enjoy a leisurely day tomorrow — have you guys decided whether to tackle the Munistiriu alternative after Chanos/Llamos de Somerón? It has been re-routed a bit since I did it, and I think it is a little more manageable, with a chain bolted into the side of the rock face for easier ascent. This is not a technical ascent, though. In terms of time, with the short day to Bendueños, it might be just what the doctor ordered to keep your cardio vascular system working longer!

 

[David Tallan]

This is really helpful, and Camino-provoking. Did you do the shorter stage because of the terrain or the availability of resources?

Because it seemed to work out well with the distance planned for tomorrow. And since I arrived at 2, with laundry still to do and dry, I'm glad I didn't go for a longer stage as one of our little cohort of pilgrims did.

 

[David Tallan]

I am sorry to hear this. I must be very lucky because I have walked into that church on at least three or four different occasions. How annoying!

I thought you were headed to Bendueños today, but I re-read your post to see that it’s for tomorrow. Enjoy a leisurely day tomorrow — have you guys decided whether to tackle the Munistiriu alternative after Chanos/Llamos de Somerón? It has been re-routed a bit since I did it, and I think it is a little more manageable, with a chain bolted into the side of the rock face for easier ascent. This is not a technical ascent, though. In terms of time, with the short day to Bendueños, it might be just what the doctor ordered to keep your cardio vascular system working longer!

Haven't decided yet, although I think I had been leaning towards the second turn off. When Ender wrote:

"...a big limestone rock that broke apart and took the path with it so we have to go up and down on a rocky uneven mountainside. Camino groups are working to make it as safe as possible but it is a challenging stretch. If you are not used to mountain walking, or if it is a day of bad weather, the advice would be to stick to the road"

My thought was that my experience with mountain walking is what I have done so far on this Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Haven't decided yet, although I think I had been leaning towards the second turn off. When Ender wrote:

Ask the guy in Chanos, he’ll know what the situation is. I have done it, and it did provide some really amazing views, but it has more elevation than the ”normal” route, and the ascent at the rocky part that I did was tricky even before the rock slide! And IMHO, the most amazing views of that day are from the point after where this alternative joins with the “normal” Salvador. Nothing spectacular like the past few mountain days, but pastoral green hills and valleys that are just beautiful.

I hadn’t heard about the rock slide, and I am not at all questioning you, but where did you see Ender’s comment? I would like to keep an eye on the progress of the repairs.

I know that Peaceable Projects, before they closed up shop, provided some funding to Sandra for new mattresses and some other improvements in Bendueños. Would love to see pictures, and make sure to get into the church, where there has been some restoration work to take care of the paintings on the walls. They seem to suggest some kind of an Afro-Caribbean connection!

 

[NadineK]

I am sorry to hear this. I must be very lucky because I have walked into that church on at least three or four different occasions. How annoying!

I thought you were headed to Bendueños today, but I re-read your post to see that it’s for tomorrow. Enjoy a leisurely day tomorrow — have you guys decided whether to tackle the Munistiriu alternative after Chanos/Llamos de Somerón? It has been re-routed a bit since I did it, and I think it is a little more manageable, with a chain bolted into the side of the rock face for easier ascent. This is not a technical ascent, though. In terms of time, with the short day to Bendueños, it might be just what the doctor ordered to keep your cardio vascular system working longer!

I just have to chime in with my experience of this alternate (from last summer): it was do-able, and so beautifully green, but maybe it was the heat because all I know is that the initial ascent was the most difficult part of the San Salvador for me!! And then there was some descending that at times was steep and at one point I almost sat on my butt to scoot down because I was afraid of slipping. There was another pilgrim a bit ahead of me, and at a few points we had to work together to figure out where to go… and by the end of it I was a bit surprised at how challenging it all was for me! Again, nothing scary or super tough, just I also wouldn’t call it easy.

Will be excited to see your next posts, and oh, you’re in for a treat with tomorrow’s albergue!

 

[El Cascayal]

David, thanks so much for posting. Much enjoying your journey. Last September it was very rainy, the forest after crossing the road after Puerto Pajares was incredibly steep, we were slipping in the mud and had to hang on to the ferns on the wall to go down a small stretch until we hit the forest floor.
Albergue de Pajares & Marisa was a dream.
You will love Bendueños & Sandra.
We avoided Munisteriu because of the weather and wound up on an alternative path through seldomly walked woods.
After this it’s easy. The student rooms at Residencia Universitaria en Mieres are true luxury.
Buen Camino! Aymarah
Edit: PS: Laurie what is your secret? I have almost never found a church open, even those scheduled to be opened (timed my walk to be there then) nada, absolutamente nada.

 

[David Tallan]

Ask the guy in Chanos, he’ll know what the situation is. I have done it, and it did provide some really amazing views, but it has more elevation than the ”normal” route, and the ascent at the rocky part that I did was tricky even before the rock slide! And IMHO, the most amazing views of that day are from the point after where this alternative joins with the “normal” Salvador. Nothing spectacular like the past few mountain days, but pastoral green hills and valleys that are just beautiful.

I hadn’t heard about the rock slide, and I am not at all questioning you, but where did you see Ender’s comment? I would like to keep an eye on the progress of the repairs.

I know that Peaceable Projects, before they closed up shop, provided some funding to Sandra for new mattresses and some other improvements in Bendueños. Would love to see pictures, and make sure to get into the church, where there has been some restoration work to take care of the paintings on the walls. They seem to suggest some kind of an Afro-Caribbean connection!

I copied and pasted the comment from this stage in his San Salvador Guide.

 

[David Tallan]

The student rooms at Residencia Universitaria en Mieres are true luxury.

Megan and I were thinking of walking a few km past Mieres to El Rollu and Casa Alba. Given a choice between an albergue with good ratings and comments in Gronze and a university residence, the choice seemed clear. I was a bit surprised that it hadn't been mentioned in the @wisepilgrim app. It makes for a bit longer day, but the walk from Bendueños didn't seem an especially hard one, and then it is a shorter walk to Oviedo the next day, giving us more time there.

 

[peregrina2000]

I copied and pasted the comment from this stage in his San Salvador Guide.

Well, you would think I would remember that since I translated it into English.
I think that has been fixed by the chain that others have mentioned, but I would still check in Llanos de Somerón if you are at all tempted.

Buen camino!

 

[JWB]

Did the Munistiriu alternative last May, recommended by the Llanos albergue owner The path is recovered now. Not very difficult, at one point some (short) climbing but safe thanks to a steel rope attached to the rocks. A beautiful walk, highly recommended.

 

[David Tallan]

Well, you would think I would remember that since I translated it into English.
I think that has been fixed by the chain that others have mentioned, but I would still check in Llanos de Somerón if you are at all tempted.

Buen camino!

We didn't see anyone in Llanos when we walked through and the Spanish couple I was walking with at the time really weren't up for it so we took the regular route. But I've just been talking to Megan (sitting here in Fesno) who just took it. She says there are now little metal stairs in the really tough part (and a tree that has fallen over the route). She didn't see chain's. It was overgrown in areas, but nothing someone who has been walking the San Salvador shouldn't be able to handle. The most worrying part for her was the lack of a GPS track to get her back on track if she went off piste.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 27: Pajares to Bendueños (San Salvador Day 4)
20.9 km

I set out later today, at almost 7:30, after Luis and Megan. I filled up my water bottle in the fountain on the way out if town and set off.

The day started with a steep descent to San Miguel and the river at the bottom of the valley. Of course, one of the things you learn is when you descend to a river at the bottom of a valley, it won't be too long until you climb up out of it. And so proved to be the case. After the descent to San Miguel was the climb to Santa Marina.

It wasn't long after the climb to Santa Marina that I came across the Spanish pilgrim couple I had walked with on the first day. I walked with them a while. They had had a tough day yesterday. After we got to Llanos (or Chanos, with Asturian spelling) we had to decide which option to take. The first option is the "Munistiriu" route which takes you off the road onto steep rocky paths. I was of two minds about this option. It avoids road walking and takes you past some monastery ruins. But the advice in the guide was that if you are not used to mountain walking, better to stick to the road. The mountain walking I've done has generally been on this Camino. Nevertheless, had my companions been interested in taking it, I probably would have given it a shot. But it was clearly beyond their comfort level. So we set off for about four km of road walking through lovely mountain scenery before the second option presented itself with another turnoff from the road, just before the town of Puente de Fierros.

This narrow path led us for about a km through forests and clearings, up and down, to the village of Fresnedo. When we got there, one of my fellow pilgrims realized she was without her phone, having put it down (more or less when we had just left the road) and forgotten it. She was ready to leave it behind and write it off as lost. He wasn't and set off back to look for it. I was encouraged to carry on, which I did.

But I stopped for a bit of a rest a drink on a bench a but further into the village. And who should turn up but Megan, whom I had assumed would be far ahead of me as she walks much faster. It turns out she had taken the Munistiriu route and was just arriving and also looking to rest a while. We chatted for a bit about that path, which she said was challenging but not too much for anyone who had done what we had yesterday. While we were chatting the Spanish couple walked up. He had been successful in retrieving her phone and done so in record time. The three of us set off, leaving Megan behind resting, fully confident it wouldn't be long before she passed us. (Which was true.)

After Fresnedo the route once again becomes a narrow path through woods and the occasional clearing. Some muddy parts and streams. And lots of ascents and descents. The ascents were getting to the Spanish couple and, after a while, the decided to stop and rest and waved me on to continue, which I did. It was about 5 km of this before I hot to Herías, where the turnoff to Bendueños is. It is supposed to be only 1.4 km from there, but those km were as strenuous as any on this Camino! Megan and Luis were waiting for me in the albergue when I arrived and we all commented on what a challenge that last but had been.

We also commented on what a lovely and special albergue it is. It was well stocked with drinks and food for snacks and breakfast. The beds were very nice and there were real sheets. There was a washing machine for our use. And we even got the key to the church next door!

So, first stop was laundry and showers and hanging up the laundry to dry on the balcony with a stunning view of the valley. After that there was a tour of the church. Comida (lunch/dinner) was dropped off, a huge pot (pressure cooked) of tasty beans and chorizo and chicken and meat and potatoes.

There will be four of us, as a Spanish pilgrim we haven't seen before has just arrived, too.

Photos below:
- on the descent to San Miguel
- pointing the way to Llanos
- walking through the woods
- view from the road
- walking to Herías
- view from the albergue balcony
- in the back of the church

 

[Pathfinder075]

Megan and I were thinking of walking a few km past Mieres to El Rollu and Casa Alba. Given a choice between an albergue with good ratings and comments in Gronze and a university residence, the choice seemed clear. I was a bit surprised that it hadn't been mentioned in the @wisepilgrim app. It makes for a bit longer day, but the walk from Bendueños didn't seem an especially hard one, and then it is a shorter walk to Oviedo the next day, giving us more time there.

Hi David, if you go to El Rollu / Casa Alba, could you let me know if the lady who runs it has any pets. I would like to use El Rollu as the staging point for my last day on Salvador, when i walk, but if she has dogs or cats, I will have to use the University (or find a campsite). Thanks.

 

[peregrina2000]

And we even got the key to the church next door!

One of Ender’s friends, who met up with several of us at Bendueños years ago, had promised to apply for funding to restore the paintings which, in his view are of tremendous historical value. Looks like he was successful. That’s a great picture!

 

[David Tallan]

One of Ender’s friends, who met up with several of us at Bendueños years ago, had promised to apply for funding to restore the paintings which, in his view are of tremendous historical value. Looks like he was successful. That’s a great picture!

I took a couple of others.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 28: Bendueños to El Rollu (San Salvador Day 5)
32.8 km

Today was a long day. We arrived at the albergue after 4 pm, which is the latest I've ever arrived on any Camino. I'm glad I washed two sets of clothes in the washing machine so I didn't have to do laundry today.

I left late, at about 7:45, because Megan had read that the Centre for the Reception and Interpretation of Pre-Romanesque Asturias wasn't open until 9:30 and was around 6 km away, so there was no sense leaving too early. Megan was leaving even later as she had somehow hurt her knee while sleeping and was hoping it would recover more before she walked.

I made my way to Herías without issue. It was after that I ran into a bit of trouble, missing the marker that clearly, the second time I passed it by, told my to leave the main trail on a narrow side trail to the right. I didn't discover the error until over a km later, when I was thinking I hadn't seen an arrow for a while and came to a juncture without an arrow to tell me which way to go. I checked my GPS tracks only to discover I was way off track in the middle of nowhere. So it was turn around and head back to find where I missed a turning.

The turning I missed led me on a steep, rocky descent to Campomanes, at the bottom of the valley. This time I had reasonable hopes that I wouldn't be climbing right back up again. Instead, I followed the river and the road along the bottom of the valley towards La Pola.

But before La Pola de Lena was the 9th century pre-Romanesque church of Santa Cristina de Lena. It, of course, was not at the bottom of the valley so there was another steep climb. And, it being Monday, the church was closed. I called the person with the keys but there was no getting it opened. This is the result of the extra rest day in Leon. When I did my original planning, I was arriving on a day when it was open. While I was appreciating the exterior of the church, Megan arrived. She was still in some pain but starting to feel a bit better. I headed on the find the Pre-Romanesque centre while she rested.

As it turned out, neither Megan nor I were able to find the Centre. Ender seemed to say it was located in the (former) train station of Cobertoria. I found the train station in his photo, but there was absolutely no indication it was a Pre-Romanesque centre and it wasn't open when the website of the Centre said the Centre would be open. In the end, I gave up and walked on (as Megan later reported also doing).

In Pola de Lena I decided not to stop in a bar or cafe for breakfast, as I was hoping to get to Mieres in time for the main lunch meal (before 2:30ish), since the only foid in El Rollu would be what we bring. I just ducked into the supermarket for a litre of yogurt drink.

After Pola de Lena the walk is pretty straightforward along a path paralleling the highway, at least for the first few km until the Camino takes you under the highway, behind the gas station, and then for a wild ride if steep ascents and descents, through overgrown meadows and woods, until finally bringing you to the hamlet of Los Tableros and the village of Ujo. It was during this wild ride of barely marked trail that I once again ran into the Spanish pilgrim couple (Fran and Yanira). I walked with them, although that meant going a little slower than I normally would and giving up on my idea of a meal in Mieres. I walked with them to Mieres and we were joined as we arrived at the city by Megan, who caught up with us even though she was going slower than usual due to the pain in her knee. We walked on together until we came to a supermarket where Megan and I stopped to get some things for supper while Fran and Yanira headed on to their hotel.

Megan and I pushed on, walking the extra few km to our albergue together. Of course, it was all uphill to El Rollu after leaving Mieres. Why do they put these albergues always at the top of a steep climb. There wasn't a sign indicating it was an albergue, but we found one that seemed more or less at the right address (we didn't see a number) and called in saying that we were looking for Casa Alba only to be told that we had found it. We were given a tour of the albergue (twin beds in double rooms) and told to relax. Which is what I have been doing.

There are now six of us in the albergue: Megan, Luis, I, an Italian pilgrim we met once before, and two others who've just arrived. I'm not sure how supper is going to happen amongst all of us, whether we are all going to chip in and eat together, or eat separately. I've got a mixed salad, tuna, and bread to eat or chip in.

Photos below:
- on the way out of Herías
- more obvious the second time round
- Santa Cristina de Lena
- train station or interpretive centre of Pre-Romanesque Asturias?
- the Zamarrones
- into the woods again
- interior of the church in Ujo

 

[David Tallan]

Day 29: El Rollu to Oviedo (San Salvador Day 6)
20 km (with some tourism and errands)

Today I finished the San Salvador. Tomorrow I begin the Primitivo.

I left the albergue just after 7. It was cool and misty. The route today was a mixed bag. Road walking and forest trails and walking by farms and even a section of the dreaded Roman road. Tiny hamlets, villages, all the way up to a big city. Not the gradual descent that Megan had described but a number of ascents and descents (although, to be fair, today they were not all steep; some were quite civilized).

I got into downtown Oviedo at about 10:30 and went straight to the tourist office to enquire about buses to Naranco where there are a couplecof pre-Romanesque churches I really wanted to see. I was told where to catch the bus. Unfortunately, it was over a 50 minute wait, but it would take almost as long to walk there, so I decided to rest and wait for the bus.

When I got there and had climbed the distance to the first church I discovered I had another half hour to wait for the tour that would take me inside. It turns out the first church (Santa Maria de Naranco) probably originally served as a palace for King Ramiro I (842-850) before being later used as a church. The second, San Miguel de Lliño, was a church in the toline of Ramiro I, although only the west end of the original church remains. Unfortunately, no interior photography is permitted in the second. After visiting these sites, I headed back to the bus stop and another half hour wait for the bus.

Then I went to the Oviedo Decathlon, not too far from where I got off the bus, and finally got me some replacement pole tips!

Then it was over to the hostel to check in, shower, and get the laundry started. In about 15 minutes I will head over to the cathedral to get my Salvadorana and see the Cathedral and is treasures.

The woman at the ticket booth was super nice. My Salvadorana as well as my visit to the cathedral and museum were all free, courtesy of the cathedral. I was hoping for a bit if a discount, so that certainly exceeded expectations. The cathedral was a very interesting mixture of different eras in different places. Most of it is gothic, but parts are Romanesque, even bits pre-Romanesque, and there are also later styles in some of the chapels. The Romanesque sculptures in the Sacred Chamber (with the holiest relics) was truly amazing and I went a bit overboard photographing the capitals in the cloister. It was also great to run into Fran and Yanira in the cathedral. What a great place to add closure to our encounters. I met them at the very beginning of the Camino by San Isidoro in Leon and again at the very end in the Cathedral in Oviedo.

All that remains is to find something to eat and hope to get to bed a bit early for an early start tomorrow on the Primitivo and the long stage to Grado.

Photos below:
- Torre Muñíz y Palacio de Bernaldo de Quirós
- the Roman road
- Asturian horreos
- Santa Maria de Naranco
- San Miguel de Lliño
- in the Sacred Chamber
- the San Salvador

 

[jungleboy]

Congratulations on finishing the Salvador!

The woman at the ticket booth was super nice. My Salvadorana as well as my visit to the cathedral and museum were all free, courtesy of the cathedral.

I remember a man at the same ticket booth being super nice to us last year as well.

 

[peregrina2000]

Note from the mods: @David Tallan has moved onto the Primitivo and you can follow his camino here.