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marjude said:I will just have to deal with what ever comes my way. Should I take the same attitude with accommodation?
Re the albergue you mention in Day 8. I showed up there in 2012, and was shocked to find that it was not just closed, but abandoned. Peering through the damaged doors I could see the beautiful courtyard all overgrown. I was very disappointed,because it is, as you say, a beautiful place. The weird thing was that there was a brand-new bridge over the railway giving access. I can't remember the name of the place, (there's no village) but it was about six km south of Villafranca. I went on to V and stayed in Hostal Carmen which was very nice.I have gone through my journal and collected whatever info I had about where I stayed on the Vdlp. I've sent this to a couple of people via pm, but thought I'd post it here in case it helps anyone else. Let me say that this is a pretty relaxed schedule. Actually, I didn't find much of this route to be very demanding, but then I walked in a beautiful, cool springtime. I usually average a few more kms a day, but had the time this year and so I took it slow. But if you have less time, you shouldn't worry that you need to devote this many days, you can do it in fewer without feeling squeezed. I will break this into two separate posts, here is Day 1-15
I stayed in Sevilla at the Hotel Simon, about one block off the Camino, 41E. Nothing special, but Sevilla is expensive. Others got on the camino, crossed the river, and easily found a place to stay in Triana. There were a lot of cheap hostales, they said, and they were still a stone's throw from Sevilla.
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km) -- stayed at Bar Frances, adequate. 23 euros, bed and breakfast. Albergue has 10 beds, isn't terrific, and is usually full. Bar Frances will take phone reservations.
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km) -- this albergue isn't one of my favorites either. Cramped, not many bathrooms. I stayed in a beautiful little rural hotel, cheap for peregrinos 26 euros, and with a good restaurant, Hospederia de la Plata, http://www.hospederiadelaplata.com. There is also the possibility of a 10E room with Senora Salvadora, Avenida Espana 43, phone, 955-73-4509
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km) -- I have stayed in the albergue and it's fine. Big rooms with lots of beds, but bathrooms are sex segregated and high quality. I made a reservation ahead of time, not sure why, in the Casa Concha. rooms are 20E for pilgrims and are very clean and newly constructed. Restaurant has a decent pilgrim's meal and better food back in the dining room.
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km) -- stayed in a pension, kind of a strange place, but the albergue wasn't open when I got there. Pension el Molino, right on the camino, and it's a little weird but fine. I stayed in a room that had millions of boxes piled high to the ceiling.
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km) --no albergue here, I stayed in Hostal El Pilar, I liked it a lot. There are a couple of hotels as well. The village priest is in the process of converting his home into an albergue, it should be open by September he told me. He's a wonderful man, I would stay there if I had had the chance.
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km) -- excellent albergue, extremely clean, large rooms with few beds in each. Very clean sheets on all the bunks. Private pensiones here always get bad reviews.
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km) -- stayed in the albergue (in 2009, I was bitten by bed bugs here, in 2010, no problem). Rooms have bathrooms attached to them, to be used only by people sleeping in the room. Rooms range from 2 people to 8 or 10.
There is an incredible albergue in between these two towns, it's out in the middle of nowhere in an old building that used to be used for making olive oil, and the press is still there. Very nice rooms, good food, lots of grass and lounge chairs. We spent a while there for coffee and a snack and if it hadn't been so early, would have definitely stayed here. I think it's called Almanzara or Almanara or something like that. It's a very short (3 min) walk off the camino, there are signs.
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km) -- Casa Perin is the only place to stay here, IMO. For eating, go to the Restaurante Monterrey, I had an excellent meal there, and the owner of Casa Perin will give you directions.
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km) -- Private albergue is not great value, and the food in the bar connected with albergue is terrible. Single rooms in hotel nearby are almost as cheap and have private bath. Hotel Milenium. This place has been the victim of some pretty horrible smears by the owners of the albergue. The hotel's new phone number is 924-34-1095. There is a second albergue in town, the albergue turistico, which is in a beautiful old building, the one with conch shells all around the doorway. It wasn't open when I was there, but I know people who have stayed there and liked it very much.
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km) -- have heard bad things about the albergue, stayed in a nice pension, Hostal Senero, Calle Holguin no. 12, phone 924-31-72-07, info@hostalsenero.com
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km) -- nice enough albergue, clean and space for sitting, the hospitalera also owns a casa rural. No reservations possible at the albergue.
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km) -- casa rural in this town gets bad reviews. The albergue is very nice, so long as you're on the first floor of the albergue (which is the second floor of the monastery). The third floor of the albergue is a huge room with at least 50 beds, bathrooms smelly, but the other floor has some small rooms (I got a SINGLE!!!) and a few with 6 beds or so.
(This is the town where the 3.5 km walk to the 9th century church, Santa Lucia del Trampal, starts in front of the town hall. Highly recommended, at least if you like old churches).
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km) -- stayed in a small hotel, very nice, Don Carlos. http://www.hoteldoncarloscaceres.net
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km) -- albergue is ok, nothing to write home about, in a nice old building, but the bathrooms are about 2" from bunk beds. The only restaurant in town (or one of them), the Majuca, is across the street from the albergue and excellent. I spent the morning in Caceres, and walked out the 11 easy kms in the afternoon. It was the first salad I had had since leaving home that did not use iceberg lettuce.
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km) -- albergue is small and cramped, I was told. I stayed at the Hotel Malaga, very clean, simple, about 20E. And the restaurant below serves decent food as well.
May be a bit out of date but I have cut and pasted for info although I hope to do longer stages.
Thank you for this. I will be traveling from Oursense to Santiago. What I didn't see is the difficulty levels from that point on. I'm okay with uphill on the descend I'm afraid to slip in wet weather. Could you offer any insight on the rugged terrain and what I might need to watch out for. Also do you have an app you'd recommend?I thought I'd post my stages and the approximate kms so others could get a basis for comparison when trying to figure out how long they should plan for the Vdlp. My walk had a lot of short days, and 3 rest days, so it was a pretty leisurely pace. In retrospect, I could have shaved 4 or 5 days off without any suffering, but I had the time and there were things I wanted to see, so why rush?
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km)
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km -- using Isabelle's very wise off-road route)
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33 km)
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km)
Day 28 -- Tabara (26 km)
Day 29 -- Santa Croya (20 km)
Day 30 -- Rionegro (26 km)
Day 31 -- Palacios de Sanabria (28 km)
Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km)
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km)
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km)
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km)
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km)
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km)
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km)
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km)
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km)
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km)
Plus four days Santiago - Finisterre - Muxia
Thank you Laurie! Appreciate the reassurance.Hi Noey,
I would not describe any of the terrain after Ourense as rugged. There is a steep ascent for about 2 km at the exit from Ourense (about 250-300 m of ascent, so not too much in terms of the total, but the problem is that it's pretty steep). And that is all along the road. After that there is no serious up or down at all, basically just some rolling hills. So I wouldn't worry about slippery descents.
I know that Melanie McManus has a Vdlp ap that others have used but I have no first hand information. http://www.melaniemcmanus.com/apps/
If you can read Spanish the Eroski site has a free downloadabe ap with very good and detailed information about the route, accommodations, etc. I printed out a paper version and it was my only guide, it is very complete. http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/mobile/los-caminos-de-santiago/sanabres/
Good luck with your planning and don't worry! Buen camino, Laurie
Hola. Thanks for The useful info here. I wanna ask How About The albergue along This route And The arrows Are all good??I thought I'd post my stages and the approximate kms so others could get a basis for comparison when trying to figure out how long they should plan for the Vdlp. My walk had a lot of short days, and 3 rest days, so it was a pretty leisurely pace. In retrospect, I could have shaved 4 or 5 days off without any suffering, but I had the time and there were things I wanted to see, so why rush?
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km)
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km -- using Isabelle's very wise off-road route)
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33 km)
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km)
Day 28 -- Tabara (26 km)
Day 29 -- Santa Croya (20 km)
Day 30 -- Rionegro (26 km)
Day 31 -- Palacios de Sanabria (28 km)
Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km)
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km)
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km)
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km)
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km)
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km)
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km)
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km)
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km)
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km)
Plus four days Santiago - Finisterre - Muxia
9-10 days from Puebla de Sanbria? Possible? (You can see what I'm doing...methodically going through the options...Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km)
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km)
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km)
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km)
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km)
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km)
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km)
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km)
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km)
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km)
And people earlier in the thread were wondering about Monesterio? The parroquial albergue run by Father Angel. This albergue has everything a peregrino could want.
Hi, Viranani,Hi, Laurie,
Thanks for this very long-lasting thread!
9-10 days from Puebla de Sanbria? Possible? (You can see what I'm doing...methodically going through the options...)
We walked straight through from Vilar to Ourense. There are plenty of bars along the way so it is a longish day but not an exhausting one.
Well, Brava, Laurie, long may you stride on!!I'm assuming that in a few years I will start back on the shorter day program, but for now, I'm going to try to keep at it!
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/anyone-starting-the-vldp-in-june-2015.32196/ I kept posting in this thread while on the camino itself so you can get an idea of the stages I did. The main stage where the construction was a pain was walking up the hill to Lubian. Some of the camino route has been blocked so you end up on the highway. We struck a really hot day so we just wanted to get up the hill as fast as we could and ended up following the highway for all of the uphill bit because we didn't want to risk any extra kilometres. In Spring though in cooler weather I'd be happy to rejoin the camino route sooner. Once over the hill the walk to Lubian is lovely.
I also walked to Verin rather than straight to Laza from A Gudina so missed the AVE construction on that segment. Long story about that day!
Lubian to A Gudina was a lovely day but I bet it will be very wet and muddy at that time of the year. That hill up to the Galician border is great to walk up first thing though when you are fresh. There were parts with mud even though it hadn't rained for days and it was in the middle of a heatwave.
I like hills when I am fresh which is one reason why we stayed in Ponte Ulla. It is a very steep descent down to Ponte Ulla and nobody fancied the inevitable hill after a nice lunch in Ponte Ulla. We stayed at the bar first on the right over the bridge which has lovely individual rooms and great food. They were also celebrating Mary Magdalena on the day we arrived so the place was in party mode and we were in a similar frame of mind from Ourense onwards.
And we certainly weren't in a hurry from Ourense onwards. We had time on our side and as long as we did at least 20 km each day we would be on schedule. The aim was to be in Santiago in time to watch the fireworks on July 24th. Our fitness was at the stage where anything under 30 km was an easy day. There was certainly an element of slowing down because in some ways we didn't want it to finish.
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km) --
There is an incredible albergue in between these two towns, it's out in the middle of nowhere in an old building that used to be used for making olive oil, and the press is still there. Very nice rooms, good food, lots of grass and lounge chairs. We spent a while there for coffee and a snack and if it hadn't been so early, would have definitely stayed here. I think it's called Almanzara or Almanara or something like that. It's a very short (3 min) walk off the camino, there are signs.
When I walked through the last time it was totally closed, but SYates has more to to date info than I since she was there this year. I did hear that a restaurant in Villafranca had gotten the concession and maybe they couldn't make a go of the albergue part and just kept the restaurant open.Peregrina200, is this the place where you cross a railway bridge next to the Autovia, a few km before Villafranca? I had planned to stay there in 2012, but when I arrived it was abandoned and the garden all overgrown. Looked great though. I'll change my plans if it has re-opened.
Just noticed,peregrina2000, that your original post dated back to 2010. It's easy to miss the small grey type at the bottom. And thanks SYates for your update. I'll certainly visit the place again.SYates has more to to date info than I since she was there this year
There is a sticky thread on this topic. The 2016 list of stages and albergues can be found here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...abrés-walking-accommodation-guide.408/historyHello does anyone have a recent up to date list of Stages and advice where to stay....thank you
Ok, here is part II
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km) -- private albergue is fine, it is small, and bathroom space is extremely limited. But there aren't a lot of people, I think there are two rooms, one with beds for 8, one with beds for 4. And maybe a private room as well. Rooms also available at the Bar Emigrantes, which you will pass on the way into town, and which is where I ate dinner and breakfast.
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km) -- I took a short day today, so that I was well positioned to walk to Oliva de Plasencia without having to walk on the highway. Stayed at a very nice hotel, cheap for pilgrims http://www.ciudaddecaparra.com/ (maybe 20 E?). There is also a pension here that's not too much cheaper, but it has shared rooms and shared bathrooms and I would definitely recommend the hotel over the pension Elena, I think it's called. the hotel fills up quickly because there are only four or five rooms, so calling for reservations is probably a good idea. There is also a municipal albergue, looked very basic, in a garage-like structure, on the edge of town as you leave on the Camino.
The books will tell you that from Carcoboso to Aldeanueva del Camino it's 38 km. That's true, but there are several ways to break that up:
Option one: Walk from Carcaboso to Venta Quemada (13 km), then 6 km along the highway to Oliva de Plasencia (this 6 km takes you off the Camino, but it's easy to get back on it the next day). So that's a 19 km day. If you feel like doing more, you could start your day in Galisteo and to Oliva de Plasencia it would be a total of 29 or 30, all very easy kms. From Oliva, it's 5 km on a very nice path to Arco de Caparra, then 18 or so to Aldeanueva del Camino.
Option two: Walk from Carcaboso to the Arco de Caparra, and the Hostal Asturias will pick you up and take you to their place on the highway about 6 (?) kms off the Camino. The next day you have to follow their blue arrows back to the Camino and it's a very doable day from Hostal Asturias to Aldeanueva del Camino. (The owner of Hostal Asturias and elena in Carcaboso are in cahoots in some way -- she must get a kickback for everyone she sends to Hostal Asturias, because she got very aggressive with a friend who told her he was going to Oliva instead of Hostal Asturias).
Option three: Walk from Carcaboso to Arco de Caparra (19km), then take the well marked turnoff on the nice path back to Oliva de Plasencia. This avoids highway walking, which I detest. Details are here, with a very nice map drawn by Isabelle of the forum: camino-mozarabe-and-via-de-la-plata/topic7625.html
This is the option I took, for two reasons: I do not like walking on the shoulder of the road, and second, I wanted to visit the Arco de Caparra, where there is a visitors center and lots of ruins to walk through. The timing worked out very well for me doing Isabelle's route.
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km -- using Isabelle's very wise off-road route) -- there is an albergue turistico here in this town with NOTHING, absolutely nothing else. Well, there's a pharmacy that may open for an hour in the afternoon, and there is a grocery store but it only opens in the morning so you are unlikely to be able to use it. But the albergue is VERY nice, small rooms, and comfortable and clean, and the hospitalera serves an evening meal. The meal is nothing to write home about but it's edible.
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km) -- I was planning to stay in Aldeanueva del Camino, the albergue is fine, but it was early, so I decided to continue on Banos de Montemayor. There is another one of these Albergue Turisticos in Banos, and it's GREAT -- small rooms (3-4 people each), a very nice hospitalero, and several decent restaurants in town. If you like staying in nice hotels every now and then, there was a very nice newly opened place, http://www.hrlospostigos.com -- the owner told me they give good piligrim prices. I just ate in their restaurant, and it was good.
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33 km) -- one of the emblematic albergues of the camino, with the Priest Don Blas. It's the only game in this very small town, but there are two bars and a pharmacist who comes in the afternoon, takes orders for medicines, etc, and comes back at night to bring them to all the needy pilgrims! I was suffering from very bad allergies in all parts of my body from my chest upwards so I don't have too much of a recollection of this place. But I remember that there are two or three bars, and at least one opened early.
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km) -- There is a small albergue here, and a casa rural right next to it. I stayed in the third option, which was a new hotel type place (rooms about 20E for pilgrims) http://www.turismoruralviicarreras.com/ Good choice, had a decent dinner here as well.
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km) -- millions of options. The albergue is very nice, but pretty small (16 beds?) I stayed here an extra day and splurged on a hotel, there are tons of choices in all price ranges.
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km) -- only possibility in town was the small (maybe 6 beds total) but very nice municipal albergue. Kind of looked like the house I'd expect the hobbits to live in. Keys available in the library, I liked it very much. Took a short day because I was meeting a friend in Zamora and would have arrived too early if I did Salamanca to Zamora in two stages like most people do. Good restaurant about 1/2 km away, out on the highway. And the library has very good internet.
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km) -- stayed in a private albergue in town, pretty nice, connected with a bar where you can eat dinner. There is a municipal albergue, also, in a small old house, but the woman who ran it was very ill and the townspeople don't know if it will open again, and if so, when.
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km) -- this is a STUNNING albergue. Beautifully redone old building, lots of space, rooms are small with bathroom attached. I spent three days total here, because I visited San Pedro de la Nave, which is 24 km out of town, and met a friend here. We stayed in Hostal Trefacio for several nights, http://www.hoteltrefacio.com/ , I think a double room was about 50 E.
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km) -- Casa Rural is Casa del Sastre. It was 25E each, a little pricey, but definitely worth it if the alternative is the albergue. Tel.: +34 650834055/ +34 637303240 . We just called a day or two ahead, the owner lives out of town but has a resident who takes care of things. Great restaurant in town, on the highway, a very nice surprise! It's the restaurante Rosamary. Another non-iceberg lettuce salad! This is a restaurant run and operated by three women, kind of unusual. A man we know who stayed in the albergue had food and clothing taken from him. The albergue is out near the highway, not right in town, so its isolation probably is a factor.
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km) -- The albergue looked fine, but we stayed at another Casa Rural, again a little pricey (25 E each) but very nice. Casa del Tio Quico, http://www.casadeltioquico.com/ On weekends you may find that the entire house has been rented out, but we were lucky and arrived on a Sunday. (they rent the whole house out to families/goups, but will rent individual rooms if it's open).
Day 28 -- Tabara (26 km) -- there is a lot of construction for the new high speed train the AVE, which makes the private accommodations hard to get in at times. We stayed in a room in an apt owned by the local hotel, nothing special at all but fine. There is an albergue, I walked out to it, it's about a km outside of town, it looked fine too.
Day 29 -- Santa Croya (20 km) -- Casa Anita is DEFINITELY the place to stay, it's a fabulous albergue.
Day 30 -- Rionegro (26 km) -- albergue is in an old building, recently renovated, two floors with two rooms of beds. My friend and I were the only two in the whole albergue the night we were there (we locked the door). It seemed basically clean to us, but someone later told me that he saw a rat in a drawer and had the hospitalera come and get it. Ugh. There are two bars that serve meals, fairly standard but edible. Everyone recommended to us that we eat at the bar to the left from the front door of the albergue, not the one to the right.
Day 31 -- Palacios de Sanabria (28 km) -- you won't find an albergue listed here but there is a private home that offers rooms. They are very clean but not fancy. The evening meal was pretty bad, but she was such a nice woman we didn't really care. But be careful, the wine she serves is totally un-drinkable, and I am NOT a wine snob. We had bought a bottle in the little grocery store in town just because I had a hunch, and I'm very glad I did!
Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km) -- we did a short day to here because we wanted to visit this very nice old town. It's quite a popular tourist place, so there are many hotels to choose from (we stayed in one and were shocked by the 120 euro bill for the room and breakfast, but live and learn). There is also a very nice albergue, you'll pass it coming into town, I'd recommend it. Albergue Casa Luz, http://www.alberguecasaluz.es . And the owners of the albergue own a meson in town where we had an excellent meal.
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km) -- if you stop here, stay in the private albergue, right on the highway. It's the Albergue Casa Cervino, tel. 980-62-05-05. The owners are a couple with two daughters, they are helpful and friendly. They will also send you to eat at Hostal Tu Casa, it's about a 20 minute walk but WELL WORTH IT. Good food, very nice people. Do not go to the dirty municipal albergue, though the hospitalera frequently tries to pull people into it. It's filthy.
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km) -- We stayed at the Casa Pachaca, http://www.lapachaca.turcastilla.com, email is lapachaca@turcastill.com, tle. 980-624-127. This is a pretty little town, very pretty. The albergue and a private place, Casa Irene, are right at the entrance to town. I would recommend ignoring both of them, as we did. The albergue,on the day we arrived, had no running water. The Casa Irene, right next door, was tempting but seemed kind of dirty to me. So I continued on to Casa Pachaca, which is on the other end of town but right on the camino, and it was great. I recommend it highly. Prices were pilgrim-friendly, can't remember the exact amount.
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km) -- liked the albergue very much
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km) -- another great albergue-- I had an excellent meal in the meson in town, not the bar,they are right across the street from each other. But I had an excellent breakfast in the bar in town.
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km) -- terrific albergue.
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km) -- great albergue. There's a new restaurant in town, on the way into town from the albergue. It's run by two women and has good food and good wine.
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km) -- great albergue. We took the little "touristic train" out to the thermal baths, (a euro and change for a 5 km ride) and it was the one time I wished I had brought a bathing suit. The baths are beautiful and free.
In between Ourense and the monastery is the very nice albergue in Cea. We stopped and had lunch there, though those who stayed there said the hygiene wasn't top notch (but by this point on the Vdlp, you'll be used to that!). There is a casa rural also, and the bar/restaurant in town (a pulperia) is terrific.
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km) -- if you have an interest in old monasteries, I'd highly recommend staying in their very basic albergue. Otherwise, getting to the monastery at the time they give visits is difficult. We walked from Ourense, got there around 3:30 pm and were able to take a tour at 4 or 5. Two bars in town, one will serve sandwiches, one will serve hot meals, very basic.
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km) -- big modern albergue, its upkeep is less than stellar but it's fine. Restaurant on the road gives overpriced but edible meals, nothing special.
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km). I stayed in the pension across the street from the Dia supermarket. There are also rooms at the restaurant right over the bridge as you enter town. I liked the people at the pension better so stayed there. The albergue is another 4 or 5 km outside of town and it's an uphill walk. By the time I got there in the afternon, I was ready to stop walking, especially because there are detours that add on kilometers from the construction of the AVE train. It's a pretty little town, and I had a very decent meal in the pension, which is right next to the gas station on the way out of town.
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km). We stopped at the Colegiata de Sar on the way into town. Parts of what must have been a beautiful romanesque cloister are still there, just a very nice place for a stop before your last km up into town.
There are of course tons of places to stay in Santiago. My favorite is the Hotel Costa Vella, which has pretty reasonable rates if you want to stay in a private place. For a cheaper pension, I'd recomment the Pension Linares where I have stayed several times. For eating, don't miss the Bodeguilla de San Roque, it has great simple food.
So, there you have it. I don't know if you like to plan all your stages or walk by the seat of your pants, but if you have specific questions about other places, I may also have some knowledge that I could dredge up out of my brain to help you out.
Hope lots of you are planning to walk the Vdlp -- it's spectacular. Laurie
I am not aware of Isabelle’s off road route, as I will be walking Via de la Plata I would be interestedI thought I'd post my stages and the approximate kms so others could get a basis for comparison when trying to figure out how long they should plan for the Vdlp. My walk had a lot of short days, and 3 rest days, so it was a pretty leisurely pace. In retrospect, I could have shaved 4 or 5 days off without any suffering, but I had the time and there were things I wanted to see, so why rush?
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km)
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km -- using Isabelle's very wise off-road route)
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33 km)
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km)
Day 28 -- Tabara (26 km)
Day 29 -- Santa Croya (20 km)
Day 30 -- Rionegro (26 km)
Day 31 -- Palacios de Sanabria (28 km)
Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km)
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km)
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km)
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km)
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km)
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km)
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km)
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km)
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km)
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km)
Plus four days Santiago - Finisterre - Muxia
I am not aware of Isabelle’s off road route, as I will be walking Via de la Plata I would be interested
@Sandra RiordanI am not aware of Isabelle’s off road route, as I will be walking Via de la Plata I would be interested
Dear Peregrina 2000, I have to admire you. You seem to be on some of the routes every year and are a very professional pilgrim. I wondered how often you walk, how many weeks per year and at what times, Spring/Autunm?. I have done the France twice in 09 and 10. Now eight years later I've taken the notion of trying the Plata. Some of the long stages have scared me somewhat because I recently got a new hip and think anything over 20km would be too much and I am 67. I was thinking maybe a little 20" folding bike to help me along on the flat bits as well as carrying my water and pack. I would not want to go any quicker than good walkers and would stick to your stages. I just wondered if this would work and if there is any parts where even wheeling the bike would be difficult. And would it be too hot from now through to september to attempt it. Thank you, John.I thought I'd post my stages and the approximate kms so others could get a basis for comparison when trying to figure out how long they should plan for the Vdlp. My walk had a lot of short days, and 3 rest days, so it was a pretty leisurely pace. In retrospect, I could have shaved 4 or 5 days off without any suffering, but I had the time and there were things I wanted to see, so why rush?
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km)
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km -- using Isabelle's very wise off-road route)
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33 km)
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km)
Day 28 -- Tabara (26 km)
Day 29 -- Santa Croya (20 km)
Day 30 -- Rionegro (26 km)
Day 31 -- Palacios de Sanabria (28 km)
Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km)
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km)
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km)
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km)
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km)
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km)
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km)
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km)
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km)
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km)
Plus four days Santiago - Finisterre - Muxia
Hi, Thanks so much for this information. One quick question that I do not know if it was already asked. I am thinking of walking this route in about 2 years. I will be 66 when I would do it. Is there any way to avoid those 30k plus days. I know it is relatively flat. I think I can do 30 and that would probably be tops for me. I looked at Gronze and some of these long days can't be broken up as there is nothing in between stages. Is this correct? Is the only alternative to bus or taxi on some of those super long days?I thought I'd post my stages and the approximate kms so others could get a basis for comparison when trying to figure out how long they should plan for the Vdlp. My walk had a lot of short days, and 3 rest days, so it was a pretty leisurely pace. In retrospect, I could have shaved 4 or 5 days off without any suffering, but I had the time and there were things I wanted to see, so why rush?
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km)
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km -- using Isabelle's very wise off-road route)
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33 km)
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km)
Day 28 -- Tabara (26 km)
Day 29 -- Santa Croya (20 km)
Day 30 -- Rionegro (26 km)
Day 31 -- Palacios de Sanabria (28 km)
Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km)
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km)
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km)
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km)
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km)
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km)
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km)
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km)
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km)
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km)
Plus four days Santiago - Finisterre - Muxia
If you could remind me which are the long days that you are referring to, I’d be happy to try to help. One I can think of right now is from Carcaboso to Aldeanueva, which is about 39. There are several ways to break it up — two highway hotels at about two kms off the camino (Asturias and one other whose name I forget) and the off-Camino albergue in Oliva de Plasencia. Both of these options are described in many threads, try with the search function and let us know if you can’t find the info. And remind me of other long stages, because my aging memory is not helping me out here!Hi, Thanks so much for this information. One quick question that I do not know if it was already asked. I am thinking of walking this route in about 2 years. I will be 66 when I would do it. Is there any way to avoid those 30k plus days. I know it is relatively flat. I think I can do 30 and that would probably be tops for me. I looked at Gronze and some of these long days can't be broken up as there is nothing in between stages. Is this correct? Is the only alternative to bus or taxi on some of those super long days?
Thanks
Hi,If you could remind me which are the long days that you are referring to, I’d be happy to try to help. One I can think of right now is from Carcaboso to Aldeanueva, which is about 39. There are several ways to break it up — two highway hotels at about two kms off the camino (Asturias and one other whose name I forget) and the off-Camino albergue in Oliva de Plasencia. Both of these options are described in many threads, try with the search function and let us know if you can’t find the info. And remind me of other long stages, because my aging memory is not helping me out here!
Thanks for your response. I just happened to notice a few thirty plus days on your list as well as on the Grionze stages. On Gronze it showed some long stages with no services whatsoever. I know there are plenty of websites like Godesalco Camino planner but it is always better to hear first hand experiences that pilgrims retell. Did you use a guidebook or just ask locals or both? My Spanish is good enough to communicate needs and get directions etc. Thanks for your input. Any other information regarding this would be appreciated.If you could remind me which are the long days that you are referring to, I’d be happy to try to help. One I can think of right now is from Carcaboso to Aldeanueva, which is about 39. There are several ways to break it up — two highway hotels at about two kms off the camino (Asturias and one other whose name I forget) and the off-Camino albergue in Oliva de Plasencia. Both of these options are described in many threads, try with the search function and let us know if you can’t find the info. And remind me of other long stages, because my aging memory is not helping me out here!
@peregrina2000 often likes to walk longer stages, so her list does not present the shortest options. I have made notes below on the stages that she listed, giving some options for shorter days. My point is that the VDLP is still quite do-able for people like me who prefer not to walk more than 25 km/day. The "problem" is that it is not always possible to select the exact number of km you want to walk. Sometimes you need to pick a shorter day that you really need, in order to manage the following day(s). Of course, if you want shorter days, you need more days!I just happened to notice a few thirty plus days on your list as well as on the Grionze stages. On Gronze it showed some long stages with no services whatsoever.
You are awesome! Thanks@peregrina2000 often likes to walk longer stages, so her list does not present the shortest options. I have made notes below on the stages that she listed, giving some options for shorter days. My point is that the VDLP is still quite do-able for people like me who prefer not to walk more than 25 km/day. The "problem" is that it is not always possible to select the exact number of km you want to walk. Sometimes you need to pick a shorter day that you really need, in order to manage the following day(s). Of course, if you want shorter days, you need more days!
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)- Easy to shorten by taking taxi for first 16 km to park entrance.
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km)- You can go off camino to Almendralejo, making 2 shorter days.
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)- You can stop after 27 km, in Valdesalor, 11 km before Caseres.
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)- Now the albergue is open at Embalse de Alcantara, 21 km after Casar.
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)- You can go via Riolobos and make 2 days.
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km)- Or arrange pickup at Ventaquemada for Oliva, or at Caparra for Hostal Asturias.
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)- There are several ways to break this up including Hostal Asturias, Aldeanueva, Hervas.
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33km)- There are options to stop before here e.g. Valverde de Valedlacasa.
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)- You can break in half at El Cubo or stop 6 km later at Casa Saso.
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km)
After Granja, I went north to Astorga because of time limitations, so I can't help with the stages on the Camino Sanabres.
Good and i will consider it for my next. My 35 day trek last year with a lot of 40km days and no rest days nearly killed meI thought I'd post my stages and the approximate kms so others could get a basis for comparison when trying to figure out how long they should plan for the Vdlp. My walk had a lot of short days, and 3 rest days, so it was a pretty leisurely pace. In retrospect, I could have shaved 4 or 5 days off without any suffering, but I had the time and there were things I wanted to see, so why rush?
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km)
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km -- using Isabelle's very wise off-road route)
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33 km)
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km)
Day 28 -- Tabara (26 km)
Day 29 -- Santa Croya (20 km)
Day 30 -- Rionegro (26 km)
Day 31 -- Palacios de Sanabria (28 km)
Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km)
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km)
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km)
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km)
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km)
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km)
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km)
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km)
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km)
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km)
Plus four days Santiago - Finisterre - Muxia
Hi as gaillimh, I’m hoping to walk in 35 days also. Was it that hard , how many 40+ days did u walk ?Good and i will consider it for my next. My 35 day trek last year with a lot of 40km days and no rest days nearly killed me
@ErnI am planning for my 4th camino this year (completed Frances, Portugese and Primitivo). if I only have about 2 weeks of walking, which would be a recommended portion of the Vdlp to cover? Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you.
Hi Ern, I would recommend starting at Seville and see how far you get. That way you just continue and work your way along the Via when you next have time, and you get to see it all. That first section mainly in Extremadura is very beautiful. Just don't do it at the height of summer!I am planning for my 4th camino this year (completed Frances, Portugese and Primitivo). if I only have about 2 weeks of walking, which would be a recommended portion of the Vdlp to cover? Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you.
@Ern
How far you walk in a day depends on how far you are comfortable walking. If you intend to finish in Santiago, multiply the distance that you want to walk in a day by the number of days that you have to walk, in your case, fourteen days. I walked an average of twenty km a day on the VdlP, so I could walk about 280 km in two weeks. Work backwards from Santiago, depending on whether you want to walk through Astorga or through the Sanabres. Find a place with easy access by public transit at a distance where you feel comfortable walking from, then work onward from there planning to stay at places where there is accommodation at the end of each days walk. This is more or less how I planned my walk on the VdlP, since no one else's day's walk would necessarily work for me. I walked 49 days from Seville through the Sanabres, planning to walk for an average of 20 km a day and with one day off. This took some planning, but made the walk my own. I had no difficulty finishing within the time that I gave myself and was able to enjoy the walk. Of course, this is just one way to plan your walk, but you can avoid the need to push yourself or take a bus because you have run out of time. Buen camino.
No trouble if you plan them out a day or so in advance, in order to know if the distance will be comfortable or not, and what distance that leaves you for the following day.Any problems with finding albuergues or such?
I have gone through my journal and collected whatever info I had about where I stayed on the Vdlp. I've sent this to a couple of people via pm, but thought I'd post it here in case it helps anyone else. Let me say that this is a pretty relaxed schedule. Actually, I didn't find much of this route to be very demanding, but then I walked in a beautiful, cool springtime. I usually average a few more kms a day, but had the time this year and so I took it slow. But if you have less time, you shouldn't worry that you need to devote this many days, you can do it in fewer without feeling squeezed. I will break this into two separate posts, here is Day 1-15
I stayed in Sevilla at the Hotel Simon, about one block off the Camino, 41E. Nothing special, but Sevilla is expensive. Others got on the camino, crossed the river, and easily found a place to stay in Triana. There were a lot of cheap hostales, they said, and they were still a stone's throw from Sevilla.
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km) -- stayed at Bar Frances, adequate. 23 euros, bed and breakfast. Albergue has 10 beds, isn't terrific, and is usually full. Bar Frances will take phone reservations.
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km) -- this albergue isn't one of my favorites either. Cramped, not many bathrooms. I stayed in a beautiful little rural hotel, cheap for peregrinos 26 euros, and with a good restaurant, Hospederia de la Plata, http://www.hospederiadelaplata.com. There is also the possibility of a 10E room with Senora Salvadora, Avenida Espana 43, phone, 955-73-4509
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km) -- I have stayed in the albergue and it's fine. Big rooms with lots of beds, but bathrooms are sex segregated and high quality. I made a reservation ahead of time, not sure why, in the Casa Concha. rooms are 20E for pilgrims and are very clean and newly constructed. Restaurant has a decent pilgrim's meal and better food back in the dining room.
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km) -- stayed in a pension, kind of a strange place, but the albergue wasn't open when I got there. Pension el Molino, right on the camino, and it's a little weird but fine. I stayed in a room that had millions of boxes piled high to the ceiling.
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km) --no albergue here, I stayed in Hostal El Pilar, I liked it a lot. There are a couple of hotels as well. The village priest is in the process of converting his home into an albergue, it should be open by September he told me. He's a wonderful man, I would stay there if I had had the chance.
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km) -- excellent albergue, extremely clean, large rooms with few beds in each. Very clean sheets on all the bunks. Private pensiones here always get bad reviews.
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km) -- stayed in the albergue (in 2009, I was bitten by bed bugs here, in 2010, no problem). Rooms have bathrooms attached to them, to be used only by people sleeping in the room. Rooms range from 2 people to 8 or 10.
There is an incredible albergue in between these two towns, it's out in the middle of nowhere in an old building that used to be used for making olive oil, and the press is still there. Very nice rooms, good food, lots of grass and lounge chairs. We spent a while there for coffee and a snack and if it hadn't been so early, would have definitely stayed here. I think it's called Almanzara or Almanara or something like that. It's a very short (3 min) walk off the camino, there are signs.
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km) -- Casa Perin is the only place to stay here, IMO. For eating, go to the Restaurante Monterrey, I had an excellent meal there, and the owner of Casa Perin will give you directions.
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km) -- Private albergue is not great value, and the food in the bar connected with albergue is terrible. Single rooms in hotel nearby are almost as cheap and have private bath. Hotel Milenium. This place has been the victim of some pretty horrible smears by the owners of the albergue. The hotel's new phone number is 924-34-1095. There is a second albergue in town, the albergue turistico, which is in a beautiful old building, the one with conch shells all around the doorway. It wasn't open when I was there, but I know people who have stayed there and liked it very much.
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km) -- have heard bad things about the albergue, stayed in a nice pension, Hostal Senero, Calle Holguin no. 12, phone 924-31-72-07, info@hostalsenero.com
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km) -- nice enough albergue, clean and space for sitting, the hospitalera also owns a casa rural. No reservations possible at the albergue.
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km) -- casa rural in this town gets bad reviews. The albergue is very nice, so long as you're on the first floor of the albergue (which is the second floor of the monastery). The third floor of the albergue is a huge room with at least 50 beds, bathrooms smelly, but the other floor has some small rooms (I got a SINGLE!!!) and a few with 6 beds or so.
(This is the town where the 3.5 km walk to the 9th century church, Santa Lucia del Trampal, starts in front of the town hall. Highly recommended, at least if you like old churches).
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km) -- stayed in a small hotel, very nice, Don Carlos. http://www.hoteldoncarloscaceres.net
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km) -- albergue is ok, nothing to write home about, in a nice old building, but the bathrooms are about 2" from bunk beds. The only restaurant in town (or one of them), the Majuca, is across the street from the albergue and excellent. I spent the morning in Caceres, and walked out the 11 easy kms in the afternoon. It was the first salad I had had since leaving home that did not use iceberg lettuce.
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km) -- albergue is small and cramped, I was told. I stayed at the Hotel Malaga, very clean, simple, about 20E. And the restaurant below serves decent food as well.
@Colette ZAs always @perrgrina2000 thank you. I know your post is from 2010 but I was happy too see your stages. I’m interested to get feedback from all regarding where to take rest days on the VDLP to sightsee: Seville (1.5 days), Salamanca, Zamora, Ourense, ? Any others? Thanks I’m starting from Seville March 5 or 6.
Merida,Caceares,both worth a dayAs always @perrgrina2000 thank you. I know your post is from 2010 but I was happy too see your stages. I’m interested to get feedback from all regarding where to take rest days on the VDLP to sightsee: Seville (1.5 days), Salamanca, Zamora, Ourense, ? Any others? Thanks I’m starting from Seville March 5 or 6.
@Colette Z
I took my only rest/retreat day on the VdlP at Riego del Camino, where I stayed two nights at Casa Camino. The only other place where I was so impressed by the Roman ruins of the city that I might have wanted to spend more time there was Merida. The Roman bridge and theatre, and a view of one star shining below the arc of the aquaduct at dawn drew me into wonder that I never felt for other historical ruins.
THanks @Martyduc. My plan shows only 16km to Merida so an early morning start would give me basically most of the day there.Merida,Caceares,both worth a day
I thought I'd post my stages and the approximate kms so others could get a basis for comparison when trying to figure out how long they should plan for the Vdlp. My walk had a lot of short days, and 3 rest days, so it was a pretty leisurely pace. In retrospect, I could have shaved 4 or 5 days off without any suffering, but I had the time and there were things I wanted to see, so why rush?
Day 1 -- Guillena (22 km)
Day 2 -- Castilblanco (17 km)
Day 3 -- Almaden (29 km)
Day 4 -- Real de la Jara (16 km)
Day 5 -- Monesterio (18 km)
Day 6 -- Fuente de Cantos (22 km)
Day 7 -- Zafra (25 km)
Day 8 -- Villafranca de los Barros (20 km)
Day 9 -- Torremegia (28 km)
Day 10 -- Merida (16 km)
Day 11 -- Aljucen (17 km)
Day 12 -- Alcuescar (21 km)
Day 13 -- Caceres (38 km)
Day 14 -- Casar de Caceres (11 km)
Day 15 -- Canaveral (33 km)
Day 16 -- Galisteo (28 km)
Day 17 -- Carcaboso (11 km)
Day 18 -- Oliva de Plasencia (25 km -- using Isabelle's very wise off-road route)
Day 19 -- Banos de Montemayor (36 km)
Day 20 -- Fuenterroble (33 km)
Day 21 -- San Pedro (28 km)
Day 22 -- Salamanca (24 km)
Day 23 -- Valdunciel (15 km)
Day 24 -- Villanueva del Campean (33 km)
Day 25 -- Zamora (18 km)
Day 26 -- Montamarta (19 km)
Day 27 -- Granja de Moruela (22 km)
Day 28 -- Tabara (26 km)
Day 29 -- Santa Croya (20 km)
Day 30 -- Rionegro (26 km)
Day 31 -- Palacios de Sanabria (28 km)
Day 32 -- Puebla de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 33 -- Requejo de Sanabria (13 km)
Day 34 -- Lubian (20 km)
Day 35 -- A Gudina (24 km)
Day 36 -- Laza (34 km)
Day 37 -- Vilar de Barrio (20 km)
Day 38 -- Xunqueira de Ambia (13 km)
Day 39 -- Ourense (16 km)
Day 40 -- Monasterio de Oseira (34 km)
Day 41 -- Laxe (29 km)
Day 42 -- Punte Ulla (31 km)
Day 43 -- Santiago (22 km)
Plus four days Santiago - Finisterre - Muxia
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