Not really live from the VF, but still... Lucca to Rome August 2022

[Purky]

Egged on by @VNwalking , who reacted on a picture I posted in the Via Francigena-section, I’ve decided to translate my Facebook-updates and post them here. Welcome to my impressions of the Way from Lucca to Rome during three weeks in August 2022.

I'll comment on this thread once for every day, leading with the main narrative and photos. All the tangents I also posted (for whatever reason) will be punctuated by an asterisk (and followed by the accompanying pic).

I hope you'll enjoy it.

 

[Purky]

Day 1 Eindhoven Airport - Pisa

I’ll do my best to virtually take you with me on the Via Francigena. A pilgrim path from Canterbury (UK) to Rome. The plan is to walk the last 400+ kilometres in Italy from Lucca to Rome, right through Tuscany and Lazio.

Because of my little route guide, which sympathetically provides ample addresses where pilgrims are welcome for an overnight stay, I am travelling without a tent and sleeping mat this time. I must say that I found this a little difficult to deal with. It takes away some autonomy and that makes me slightly nervous.

The saying 'you pack your worries and fears (together with your luggage)', well known among pilgrims and hikers, has taken on more meaning for me. On the other hand, this decision means less weight in the backpack. And I’ve been saving a while for this journey, so the light pack and the heavy wallet balance each other out quite nicely.



*
Obligatory

 

[Purky]

Day 2 Pisa - Lucca - Altopascio

I'm getting soft in my old age. Apart from the train ride from Pisa to Lucca, I decided today, against my normal hardcore approach to pilgrimages, to do the first stage of my VF by train as well.

When the itinerary for the first 18.3 km includes words like 'walking along the road', 'noise of trucks and speeding cars', 'flat landscape of suburbs, commercial and industrial zones', I know enough.

And when the author of the route guide also subtly mentions that most pilgrims spend a 'guilt-free fifteen minutes' on a train ride rather than a dystopian walk, who am I to play purist? What I said, soft.

So I spent the day wandering around Lucca and late in the afternoon I took a train to Altopascio. Where I found a place to sleep and had a nice meal. So far, so good.



*
The first steps have been taken, the first friend has been made. In a small village I shared my morning coffee with five retired gentlemen who knew every passing person by name. And by the sound of it talked about each of them at length. Especially the ladies.

 

[Purky]

Day 3 Altopascio - San Miniato

A cheap hotel, but airconditioning in my room, so I slept well. Today I went from Altopascio to San Miniato. A trip that took me from cool forests to sunny canal paths to a steep climb to get to today's destination.

I drank a lot but don't remember peeing. It did gush out through other channels. Clothing remained perfectly dry in the sun though; sweat evaporated almost immediately. It is beastly hot, but it seems to be like that everywhere else as well.

Tonight I stay in an ostello, comparable to a refugio on the Camino. Six people in one room in this heat, I’m curious how that will turn out. Although we are on top of a hill here, so maybe the wind will do something.

 

[Purky]

Day 4 San Miniato - Gambassi Terme

Today's hike was a nice walk through the rolling hills of Tuscany, sandwiched between walking along the road, when leaving San Miniato and arriving in Gambassi Terme.

Apart from the beautiful views and relentless sun, little else worth noting happened. Except for a little over an hour before the end, when I was unexpectedly followed by a visible downpour from which loud thunderclaps erupted. Fortunately, the rainclouds passed by on the left and I only felt a few drops.

Checking in at Ostello Sigerico went smoothly because yesterday I had the hostel volunteer call for a reservation on account of my non-existent Italian (although by now I have become quite proficient with ciao, buongiorno and buonasera). I executed the same trick today, so tomorrow's bed and shower is arranged as well.



*
I went out for a pizza, and this is what I got. Goodness me...



*
Prosciutto al pepe rosa, pecorino e salsa al tartufo already sounds way better than a ham and cheese sandwich. Last night, for my lunch today, I had a sandwich made at a top shop in San Miniato: Birra & Acciughe (beer and anchovies).

The manager/owner had lived in Ghent (Belgium) for thirteen years, so it was strange conversing in Dutch because of the Belgian lilt with an Italian accent as well.

But he knows his beers and makes a legendarily awesome sandwich.

 

[Purky]

Day 5 Gambassi Terme - San Gimignano

A short walking day today. Despite that, the writer of my route guide claims that today's stage is the best that Tuscany has to offer. He also thinks that San Gimignano (today's destination) is the best thing since sliced bread: Unesco World Heritage, medieval architecture, the works.

Described by a fellow pilgrim as "Manhattan of the Middle Ages", the 14 towers built by the families of wealthy patricians are particularly striking. In its heyday, San Gimignano had 72. Most of them were erected for bragging rights, but some were also used as residences. In any case, impressive.

A particularly beautiful town, if you can see through the massive number of tourists. And I count myself among them. It’s a good thing I also like watching people.



*
When I came out of my (shared) room about to join the evening meal, I was immediately included in the circle of Italian pilgrims already waiting outside. A chair was arranged, room was made.

The meal was an animated happening. One pilgrim knew enough English to translate for me now and then and the rest I managed with hands and feet. After dinner we went back outside, to finish with coffee and the local wine/liqueur in which a kind of almond bread had to be dipped.

I felt extremely welcome.

 

[Purky]

Day 6 San Gimignano - Abbadia d'Isola

Actually, it was my intention to reach Monteriggioni today, but it turned out to be Abbadia d'Isola, some four kilometres before. Reason: no beds left in Monteriggioni. Fortunately, I pick up hot info like that from the other pilgrims I meet.

The disadvantage is that there is not much to do within walking distance. The restaurant nearby is fully booked tonight. The hostel where I stay serves nothing. But on the other side of the road is a gas station with a small bar. So I can get a bag of crisps and a bottle of beer for the evening.

The advantage is that I have plenty of time to figure out tomorrow's sleeping situation. It will be Ferragosto, a bank holiday in Italy. And the day after, the 16th, is Il Palio in Siena, a biennial and insane horse race that will have the whole city packed.

And since Siena is my destination tomorrow, that is going to be very difficult. The hostel employee made some calls for me, but could not find any hostels or monasteries with an available bed. Time to check out Booking and Airbnb.



*
I want a bench, in the shade. And a cold beer. Mama mia!



*
Checking in for a place to sleep at the Convento Sant'Agostino in San Gimignano yesterday was a bit of a challenge. Three ladies arranged the registration, put a stamp in my pilgrim's passport and had quite a few questions. I moved along obediently.

Until we came to the subject of sheets. I don't need sheets, because I have a sheet bag. I needed a lot of mime to explain that, apparently without success. Until one of the ladies cranked up Google translate and typed in her impression of my pantomime.

"Shitbag!" she shouted triumphantly. I immediately burst out laughing. She got confused and showed me the screen of her mobile phone. It said "sheet bag". It was indeed the correct translation. I kept on crying from laughter. Another pilgrim, who had joined in a minute later and did speak some English, explained the difference in pronunciation to her in Italian, grinning widely.

The sheet bag of San Gimignano, a new relic.

 

[Purky]

Day 7 Abbadia d'Isola - Siena

Siena is bursting at the seams. As I wrote earlier, tomorrow is Il Palio, a horse race on the central Piazza del Campo between the seventeen districts of Siena. Three days before the actual race, there are tests twice a day, kind of rehearsals.

That is the factual story. What you won't believe until you've seen it is the total madness that is taking place here now. Everyone and their mother is in Siena, the city is flooded with tourists and moving through the narrow streets feels like being at a busy festival or in a crowded pub.

This whole circus gets fuelled further by the residents of the neighbourhoods, who regularly burst into collective chants to cheer up their own neighbourhoods and to tick off other districts.

The energy in the old centre is feverish, anarchic and completely unpredictable. It is already a madhouse and tomorrow is the real race. I shudder at this prospect and on the one hand I am glad that I will be walking on tomorrow morning. On the other hand, I am secretly curious about the spectacle, even though today the crowds are already driving me nuts.

But it is insanely expensive to stay another night in Siena. Fortunately, I was very lucky with my room tonight: I booked a bed via Airbnb, a 45-minute walk from the city centre, for just over 100 euros. The owner had made it available at the last minute, as he had other plans first. But luck is the residue of design.



*
Arturo, the Airbnb's pet cat, liked me well enough but was obviously more interested in trying to sleep on my clean laundry.

 

[Purky]

Day 8 Siena - Ponte d'Arbia

It was honestly a relief to leave Siena. Once back on the gravel and sandy roads, I felt the relaxation set in. Today, twenty-six kilometres to Ponte d'Arbia, plus the three and a half km from my accommodation to the starting point in the city centre.

Enough time to muse about yesterday's madhouse. One event stood out the most. In a conversation with a fellow pilgrim, among other things about the lack of beds in Siena, he came up with the following: "They are killing our cities to attract tourists, to give them the best possible experience. In doing so, they are pricing the average Italian out of the market. They can't afford this. Did you know that you have to buy a ticket to enter Venice now? Our own city, in our own country?"

He definitely had a point there. On the other hand, traversing the industrial zone and architectural indifference with modern bricks and concrete of Isola d'Arbia, for example, gave me little confidence in contemporary Italian urbanism. And perhaps the tourist euros help to preserve old treasures.

Mentally spinning around in circles was fortunately soon replaced by just plain old-fashioned walking. Plenty to see along the way. I don't feel like solving worldly problems today.

 

[Purky]

Day 9 Ponte d'Arbia - San Quirico d'Orcia

One of the things that makes long distance walking so enjoyable are the contrasts you regularly bump into. Poor villages or rich cities, a beautiful forest path or a boring tarmac road, a meagre home-cooked meal or a good restaurant; it is all presented to you in a very tactile and clear manner.

But also, for example, the difference between lying awake or a good night's sleep. The last was not the case in the Ponte d'Arbia hostel last night. Someone in the room had set his alarm for half past four and then never got up. And started snoring. So I got up instead and quietly read downstairs about San Quirico d'Orcia, today's destination.

I was particularly troubled by my lack of a reservation today. For some reason, I had not managed to do so. And this is the last week of the Italians' holiday, plus there were already rumours about full ostellos in this village. Beds are worth their weight in gold these days.

Those rumours turned out to be true. Everything was filled to capacity. But the young lady at the tourist information office had a list for me. So I began a round of phone calls and googling. Until finally I found a three star hotel and with a #daretoask-mentality I managed haggling a bit off the price because of ‘pilgrim's discount’.

So tonight I sleep in luxury. I have not saved up for this trip for nothing! My dirty clothes have been soaking in a body wash with Aloe Vera extract and are now drying on my balcony. Airconditioning: check. And for tomorrow, I do have a reservation for a very cheap hostel. Contrasts.



*
Speechless...



*
The Droste effect. The nerd in me is satisfied.

 

[Purky]

Day 10 San Quirico d'Orcia - Radicofani

The weather had the main role today. It was to be a rough day in any case: thirty-three kilometres, of which the last twelve went mainly uphill. I saw the proverbial rain coming and took more than enough water with me to cope with the intense heat.

After about two hours, it turned out that nature had other plans. It started with a strong wind and thunder in the distance. And an extremely threatening sky. And once I got over the hills, it really started to rain.

To be quite honest, it all made the day better. I was distracted from the distance and the climb ahead, the rain and the breeze had a cooling effect and the clouds kept the sun at bay. More than likely the reason why I walked into Radicofani at just over three o'clock, instead of my expected half past four.

Oh yeah, and I saw three deer!



*
Puss found the smell of my rucksack quite enticing. That probably delayed my departure from Radicofani by at least fifteen minutes.



*
I could, of course, make a series about the affectionate cats on the Via Francigena.

 

[Purky]

The area North of where I was walking, towards Radicofani, was battered by a fierce storm. The tail just swept over me as I walked high in the hills. So far it was reasonably dry, except for some gusts. Rainfall radar said wind force 4, but I almost got blown out of my backpack.

View attachment 20220818_105754.mp4​

 

[Purky]

Day 11 Radicofani - Acquapendente

A few days ago, in an exchange on Facebook, I mentioned the name of Mark Hollis as having been a modern day musical oracle. Not that I listen to Talk Talk every day, but it made me think of their album Spirit of Eden. Not a very, shall we say hit-sensitive album, but definitely a gem if you're in the mood.

The thought remained and I decided that today was the day to put in my earbuds and listen to it. Descending from Radicofani in the direction of Acquapendente, it was at first misty and dead quiet. The moment the sun began to tear the fog to shreds and the surrounding vistas began to take shape, I started the music.

I could not have timed it better. The sensory experience, made all the more poignant by the music, of walking through Tuscan hills where fog dissipates and swallows begin to fly energetically, was crushing, uplifting and emotional. Everything came together. As Thom Yorke (another oracle) sang: "Too much, too bright, too powerful".

Thanks Mark.



*
The first view of Lago di Bolsena, from San Lorenzo Nuovo.

 

[Purky]

Day 12 Acquapendente - Bolsena

Not a very exciting day today, which is nice sometimes. All that excitement can wear you down. So a quiet and relaxed walk to Bolsena where I could immediately check-in. There is a kitchen here that I can use, so I bought a steak and a salad in the local supermarket and chilled a beer. Cosy.



*
Top tip for hot weather hikers. If you have a freezer to your disposal, put a bottle of water in it the night before. In the morning, wrap it up in a plastic bag to keep the condensation out of your rucksack and off you go. Refill your regular drinking bottle with ice-cold water. Top up the large bottle at water points as required. Cold water until the afternoon!

 

[Purky]

Day 13 Bolsena - Montefiascone

Today, I ended up in the Monastero San Pietro of Montefiascone. Since I had to book that expensive hotel in San Quirico, I am a little less non-committal when it comes to making reservations. It pays to spend some time booking in advance, by phone, email or WhatsApp.

So I found myself a room at the Saint Peter's Monastery for seventeen euros, and the next two nights have also been confirmed. It turns out that it is still busy enough to not be able to just walk in.

Today and the next two days are relatively easy because of short stages, between sixteen and twenty kilometres. Rome is starting to come into view and I don't want to arrive too early at Saint Peter's Square.



*
It was, admittedly, a bit of weak sounding Italo pop, but the barman was singing along so passionately that I ordered a cup of coffee here.

 

[Purky]

Day 14 Montefiascone - Viterbo

I have to be careful with short stages. The way I hike is to walk as many kilometres as possible before noon. Then you can take it easy during the hottest part of the day, especially here.

But I couldn't really do that today, because I would have been in Viterbo before eleven. And since I could only get into Ostello Ospitale dei Pellegrini from half past three on, that meant spending the whole afternoon in a hot city with a backpack on. So I cranked it down a notch today. Relaxed.

I was signed in by a man who looked like the older (and smaller) brother of James Gandolfini and sounded like a young and hoarse Marlon Brando. I share a room with an Italian pilgrim who is already retired but has tied his beard into a braid. I am really starting to love this country.

Having said that, the towns I visit now in Lazio look poorer, darker and considerably less touristy. In Tuscany, the surroundings looked vacuumed a lot more, as my sister so perceptively put it. That does not mean that it is not just as charming here as in the previous region. It's just more surprising when you turn a corner from a dirty little street and suddenly find yourself on the set of "a typical Italian Piazza". As you know by now, I like that. Contrasts.



*
In a country where you can eat fantastic food for next to nothing, where you only count if you can cook yourself a nice pasta, where a half-baked pizza is not tolerated, I saw this.

I couldn't control myself and scored a double whopper. With large fries and a coke.

I feel dirty, but satisfied.

 

[Purky]

Via Cardinal La Fontaine, Viterbo, Italy

 

[Purky]

Day 15 Viterbo - Vetralla

It had to happen of course. I set off at six o'clock this morning, and loaded the route on the Via Francigena app to get out of Viterbo as quickly as possible. After three kilometres I found out that I was on the Cimino-variant to Sutri. Some possibilities to get to Vetralla, today's goal, but more ground to cover and quite a bit more climbing.

So I walked back! I chuckled about myself a lot. Armed with an app, a route guide and ample supply of signs and indications on the road, I still managed to take the wrong route. But the two Italian gentlemen who were counting and registering pilgrims further on the route thought otherwise.

They thought that I should have kept going! That I was on the Viterbo-Vetralla alternative they were developing: much more forest and after the initial climb just smooth sailing. Only a few kilometres more, much less than I feared. What a pity! The three of us had a good laugh about the silly Dutchman.

Afterwards, they wanted to inspect my Jetboil burner (because I decided to make some coffee during the questionnaire) and take a picture of it, because they thought it was a cool gadget. Those Dutch always had special gear with them. Map-reading in the early mornings, on the other hand...

 

[Purky]

Day 16 Vetralla - Sutri

Today was a textbook amazing day. The first part through woods and orchards I walked with a funny French pilgrim who was waiting for company after she bumped into a wild boar with little ones in the forest.

In Capranica, well over half way, a nice conversation with Sonja who addressed me while I was having a coffee at a cafe. Having lived in London in the 80s, the conversation in English went like clockwork, unique in Italy. Then I helped out a teenager (from a group of eight peers who are also walking the VF) with Voltaren for the pain in her feet.

Sutri, today's destination, is a cute little town. What I’ve already seen on the way to the hotel (ostello full and hotel only five euros more expensive) is charming, and I have seen quite a lot because the old centre is really pocket-sized. If all days were like this, a lot more people would give walking a pilgrimage a try.

 

[Purky]

Day 17 Sutri - Campagnano di Roma

I received a text-message that I could just go in, the key was under the shard in the vase by the door. Judging by the photos and the interior of the B&B in Campagnano di Roma, my hostess used to be married to an international man of mystery. Then she went hippie, dabbled in the Baghwan and now collects mainly towels, bedding and pillowcases.

A little later, after I met the lovely woman in real life to settle up and make arrangements, I discovered that she is also a collector of cats. I counted four, but I suspect there are more. She also regularly takes in pilgrims, because her neighbour has a hostel and it is sometimes full.

In this way she does something good for her fellow man, stays busy and earns some extra money. The days of international espionage are visibly over. What remains are the memories and a quiet existence, in which she potters around and can always count on one of her cats for a cuddle.



*
There are a few things going on with my colleague who walks in front of me. To begin with, his outfit. Drinking mug visible and dangling from his belt, as well as a flapping handkerchief for sweat. Knee-length socks up all the way and a very trendy pilgrim's hat.

He also uses his sticks very much incorrectly, despite a visibly painful injury to his right ankle or knee. And, of course, the ukulele stuck in his backpack, the ultimate red flag.

He does everything he can to stay ahead of me, in spite of the pain, which must be uncomfortable judging by his regular missteps. When he sees me coming during a break he hurries on again.

I decided to put him out of his misery by passing him by. Life is hard.

 

[Purky]

Day 18 Campagnano di Roma - Isola Farnese

Isola Farnese is a bit of a horrorshow. Commercialism along the main road, nondescript buildings in the residential areas and everyone looking grumpy. The last piece of Italian charm was the old town of Formello, about 9 kilometres from Campagnano.

I expected it too. The bigger the city, the worse the periphery. And Rome is rather large. Besides, it also says so in my guidebook. As I have already seen the main part of the village on my way to my accommodation for the night, I will keep the sightseeing to a bare minimum.

So I'm going to scour a supermarket via Google Maps, buy some tasty things for dinner and then go back to my place. I will also try to cuddle with the neighbour's cat. As yet, the beast doesn't give a damn, but I have time.

 

[Purky]

What he said...

 

[Purky]

Day 19 Isola Farnese - Roma

To end the day in style, I’ll sleep in 'Spedale della Provvidenza di San Giacomo e San Benedetto Labre'. A pilgrim hostel run by the Brotherhood of Pilgrims, who are very popular in Italy. A donativo, so you give what you can/want. I will also participate in the communal meal, but I draw the line at the ritual washing of feet that often happens here in religious hostels. There are limits, as far as I’m concerned.

Once in Rome it was, although expected, again a shock to be in a really big city. It feels unnaturally busy and chaotic after every trip where you are mainly in nature or in villages or small towns. Arriving at St Peter's Square felt meaningless to me. I may consider myself a pilgrim when on these walks, but I remain a godless pagan so that rather limits the impact of that location. For me, it is all about the journey, not the destination.

Anyway, this is it. I am going to pick up my Testimonium somewhere in the next two days. Today was not possible because of some cardinal meeting. Today I am still a pilgrim for a bit, tomorrow I will move into my rented apartment for two nights and I will be a tourist until Tuesday.

 

[Purky]

Day 20 - Roma

This morning, while moving from ostello to Airbnb, I ventured out to try and get my Testimonium. On St Peter's Square, it turned out that I could get preferential treatment as a true pilgrim: not waiting in the long queue, but being allowed to pass in between. I just had to hurry, because another (familiar) pilgrim was looking after my backpack for that time. So not the best moment to faff about.

But I did want to look around in Saint Peter's Basilica a bit longer. A cunning plan formed in my godless pagan brain. So, later that day I returned, without my pack but with my credenziale. I obviously didn’t let on that I already obtained my Testimonium earlier.

With a humble face and waving my credenziale around, I skipped the long queue again. I believed I had built up some credit after walking 400 kilometres and I came to cash in today. Which I certainly did. Just seeing Michelangelo's Pietà in person was more than worth it.

 

[Purky]

Day 22 Roma - Eindhoven Airport - Breda

So when I landed in Eindhoven, the Dutch railways were on strike. I moved quickly to the Europcar rental guy to score a piece of paper. He did not have a black marker, but he did have a better idea and a printer.

Armed with my tasteful printout, I went to the side of the road and in two lifts (Eindhoven Airport - Tilburg, Tilburg - Breda) I was home within the hour.

Faster than the trainride, and practically dropped off at the door too. Old skool solutions, I like them.

 

[Bradypus]

@Purky Thank you so much for these posts! Bringing it all back to me right now. Just discovered how tricky it is to drink my morning coffee with a huge smile on my face

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Wow, @Purky, this is amazing. I've only scrolled through so far, but I plan to pay close attention as I read through it as I leave for the Via F. in exactly two weeks, two days (16 days)...but who's counting?

 

[Mefo Phillips]

@Purky Thank you so much for these posts! Bringing it all back to me right now. Just discovered how tricky it is to drink my morning coffee with a huge smile on my face

Egged on by @VNwalking , who reacted on a picture I posted in the Via Francigena-section, I’ve decided to translate my Facebook-updates and post them here. Welcome to my impressions of the Way from Lucca to Rome during three weeks in August 2022.

I'll comment on this thread once for every day, leading with the main narrative and photos. All the tangents I also posted (for whatever reason) will be punctuated by an asterisk (and followed by the accompanying pic).

I hope you'll enjoy it.

I was fascinated to read this - it brought back a lot of memories! I rode my horse Leo from Canterbury to Rome in 2006... many tricky bits, but some quite amazing experiences. In Lucca I rode him all round the city on top of the wall. Here's a photo of us arriving in the Vatican (to find no horses allowed in St Peter's Square - I hadn't expected that, but an on duty policeman was adamant. Leo then blew his nose all over the guy's uniform which was some consolation.) This picture is a bit blue owing to the ancient camera I used, but it gives a reasonable impression!

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Hey Purky,
Great concise daily description(s). Many pilgrims along the way or were the crowds mostly made up of Italian tourists?
Thanks for posting this.

 

[Purky]

Many pilgrims along the way or were the crowds mostly made up of Italian tourists?

More pilgrims than in Norway, less than on the Frances! I heard that the VF is quite popular in Italy itself, which explains that most pilgrims I met were Italian. But it also seems to be about the time of year: Italian pilgrims in August, more Dutch and German pilgrims in September.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Italian pilgrims in August, more Dutch and German pilgrims in September.

Good information to know. I step off April 30, 2023.
Thank you

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Good information to know. I step off April 30, 2023.
Thank you

Hey, Bob, thank you for all your helpful suggestions on my upcoming Via F. Camino.
If I remember correctly, your next Via F. in April takes you to the very start in Canterbury, England to do "the whole thing"...is that still the plan?

 

[Silencio Por Favor]

Thanks Purky enjoyed reading your day to day pilgrimage and great photos. Possibly next year I will walk on the VF, unfortunately I will only have time to walk for 3 days. Thinking of Viterbo to Campagnao di Roma. Does this sound good or would suggest a different 3 day walk?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Very nice commentary and photos, @Purky; it was a pleasure to read and I enjoyed the bit of humor included in your writing style. Thank you for sharing your journey on the Via Francigena with us.

 

[VNwalking]

That was a wonderful read, @Purky, thank you. I intended to pretend it was live and only read one day at a time, but in the end had no discipline at all and read it in one go. And I've bookmarked this thread, in case.

 

[Former member 49149]

@Purky I really have to say a big thank you also, I read it all in one go, from the last to the first actually! Your pronunciation story drew me back to a very similar one, but hey, correct pronunciation is not going to get anybody a job! Your photos are beautiful. Mil gracias.

 

[Purky]

Possibly next year I will walk on the VF, unfortunately I will only have time to walk for 3 days. Thinking of Viterbo to Campagnao di Roma. Does this sound good?

Viterbo to Campagnano di Roma sounds good. Entering Viterbo was kinda rough and gave me the wrong impression, but the charming old city won me over quick. It will be a good starting point. Towards Campagnano there are plenty of orchards and forests, including a quiet and gorgeous 2 km stretch after Capranica along the Fosso Mazzano stream.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Hey, Bob, thank you for all your helpful suggestions on my upcoming Via F. Camino.
If I remember correctly, your next Via F. in April takes you to the very start in Canterbury, England to do "the whole thing"...is that still the plan?

Yes, as of this minute that is still the plan and hopefully the world cooperates with no more health outbreaks, political issues, or labor issues.
Prayers said and fingers crossed. Enjoy your trip.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yes, as of this minute that is still the plan and hopefully the world cooperates with no more health outbreaks, politic issues, or labor issues.
Prayers said and fingers crossed. Enjoy your trip.

Thanks!
I hear ya on "all the other stuff" you mentioned.

 

[Silencio Por Favor]

Viterbo to Campagnano di Roma sounds good. Entering Viterbo was kinda rough and gave me the wrong impression, but the charming old city won me over quick. It will be a good starting point. Towards Campagnano there are plenty of orchards and forests, including a quiet and gorgeous 2 km stretch after Capranica along the Fosso Mazzano stream.

Thanks, nice to know.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

@Purky, wonderful writing & photos! Thanks so much for persevering with translating (& 'vacuuming' ) your original FB posts.
Heaps of memories flooding back especially as your itinerary for that section was largely the same as mine in 2019.
A few queries;
*any hayfever issues? If you're susceptible of course. I described it as a 'beast which would not be tamed' in my VF posts

*did you partake of the 'worlds best gelato' (actual, not just my opinion; they've won the international competition several times) at Gelateria Dondoli in the centre of San Gimi? I chose 'Giardino all'italiana' flavour; tomato...seriously...basil, lemon & mint OMG!

*are you planning to walk the rest of the VF; London/Canterbury to Lucca at any time?

Happy planning for your next endeavour.

 

[Kanga]

Nice thread @Purky

 

[Purky]

@Purky, wonderful writing & photos! Thanks so much for persevering with translating (& 'vacuuming' ) your original FB posts.
Heaps of memories flooding back especially as your itinerary for that section was largely the same as mine in 2019.
A few queries;
*any hayfever issues? If you're susceptible of course. I described it as a 'beast which would not be tamed' in my VF posts

*did you partake of the 'worlds best gelato' (actual, not just my opinion; they've won the international competition several times) at Gelateria Dondoli in the centre of San Gimi? I chose 'Giardino all'italiana' flavour; tomato...seriously...basil, lemon & mint OMG!

*are you planning to walk the rest of the VF; London/Canterbury to Lucca at any time?

Happy planning for your next endeavour.

No hayfever issues, which surprised me a bit, because I am quite susceptible and went so far as to bring antihistamine. But nothing. Maybe I was late in the season?

And of course I paid a visit to Gelateria Dondoli. I went by a couple of times because the queue was ridiculous, but I could finally settle for chocolate, stracciatella and mocha. I'm boring like that. Worth it, though!

About walking the rest of the VF: not in the near future, I think, but you never know. Right now I am thinking of spending the next summer holiday in Iceland, together with my wife. One of the things I want to do there is the Laugavegur trail. And the thought of walking in Japan is also still there. My 'to do' list for walks and things I want to see is getting outrageous...

 

[VNwalking]

My 'to do' list for walks and things I want to see is getting outrageous...

Welcome to the club!
Well, if you ever walk the Kumana Kodo, I want to read about it here...

 

[Tassie Kaz]

No hayfever issues, which surprised me a bit, because I am quite susceptible and went so far as to bring antihistamine. But nothing. Maybe I was late in the season?

And of course I paid a visit to Gelateria Dondoli. I went by a couple of times because the queue was ridiculous, but I could finally settle for chocolate, stracciatella and mocha. I'm boring like that. Worth it, though!

About walking the rest of the VF: not in the near future, I think, but you never know. Right now I am thinking of spending the next summer holiday in Iceland, together with my wife. One of the things I want to do there is the Laugavegur trail. And the thought of walking in Japan is also still there. My 'to do' list for walks and things I want to see is getting outrageous...

View attachment 132865

Yep, tick one off...add 3 more is usually the way!
Glad you weren't slowed by hayfever & you partook of Gelateria Dondoli's delights despite patience-testing queues.

If it's the Way of 88 Temples you're considering in Japan, I can only encourage you to go for it...it's my favourite of all the walks I've done.

Oh...& as for the Burger King (Hungry Jacks here in Aus) 'transgression', who amongst us hasn't diverted there or to Macca's on our journeys?...a handy loo, air con, seat & you know what you're going to get the world over!

 

[MichaelC]

This is great - thanks!

I get the sense it would be best to reserve rooms ahead of time for Siena and Monteriggioni. Were there other towns pilgrims were having challenges finding rooms?

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

I would recommend booking ahead especially in Siena if your itinerary brings you there around both Palio dates in July and August.

 

[Purky]

This is great - thanks!

I get the sense it would be best to reserve rooms ahead of time for Siena and Monteriggioni. Were there other towns pilgrims were having challenges finding rooms?

San Quirico and Sutri took more time to arrange something as well.

 

[Elin_B]

Thank you, lovely thread! I'm thinking of doing some parts of The Via Francigena with my walking companion in 2024 (or maybe 2025, even though that seems awfully far away). I will surely return to this thread!