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Novice Pilgrim

keith

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Hello All,
I'm Keith from Ottawa, Canada. I'm planning on walking the Camino in May/June 2008. Having read much freely offered advice and enjoyed many communications on this and other Camino websites, I have decided to accept the challenge. One initial question I have is the severity (grade) of the climb from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles if one goes the Napolean route through the Pyrenees. While I am in reasonable physical shape (for a mid-50 yr old), I am not anxious about doing myself in early on, thereby compromising my chances of completing the route. Any advice on the pros/cons of the two posssible routes from SJPP welcomed.
 
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If you are in reasonably good shape you shouldn't have a problem especially if, as I did, you just go to Orisson on the first day. That took me 2 hours. The next day it took 4 hours to get to Roncesvalles. Most of the uphill part is on the shoulder of the pavement.
 
Jeff:
Thanks for the reply. I was hoping to go the higher level route as from others comments and some pictures posted, the view appears splendid.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Hi Keith,
Welcome to the Forum. At mid 50's you should be fine in the Pyrenees. I did it when I was 60. However if you want to stop at Orison I would advise trying to book a bed since there are many pilgrims on the road May/June.

Buen Camino,

Brendan
 
I didn't find the bit from St Jean to Roncesvalles to be particularly difficult, compared to what I expected. It's not extremely steep, it is just continuous. The trail is very smooth for the most part, with unbelievably beautiful views. It was one of my favorite days of walking of the whole camino.

I was tired by the end, but not really any more tired than any other day of the camino. Looking back, I should have rested more on that first day, but I think it has a reputation for being more difficult than it actually is.
 
I'd actually say that it's the second day, coming down from Roncesvalles, that you have to watch out for. Climbing tires your legs, but rarely hurts them. Descending is when you can mess yourself up - jamming your toes into the toe of your shoes, chafing, straining your tendons. Very few people are "done in" after the day's climb to Roncesvalles. For a lot of pilgrims, the strain adds up over the first three or four days, and it's not till Puente la Reina or Estella that it hits them. My suggestion is don't push too hard for the first week or so till you've found your comfort zone. Happy trails.
 
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Thanks to all responded. I'm feeling more positive about the start now. Now it just a matter of keeping up my enthusiasm over the coming winter in anticipation of next spring. I'm sure this forum will amply help to do the job.
K.
 
Keith:

Congrats on your upcoming Camino! I did it in July-August of 2007. Here are some pros/cons/tips for the St. Jean climb:

Pros - beautiful scenery when the weather is good. Great feeling to begin at a "traditional" starting point. St. Jean is a neat town to spend a day hanging out in.

Cons - Long, hard uphill/downhill way to go on the first day. Was very windy up top when I was there. Not too many facilities to eat or drink at - and once you pass that last albergue (which comes early on), you're pretty much committed to finish unless you turn around. As some others have said, the 2nd day is also hard, so that will add to the initial shock.

Tips - make sure your pack isn't much more than 10K max. Break in your boots before you go - and don't get a heavy pair (a light pair with ankle support and good soles should be fine). Bring a good supply of water (there are fountains,but it doesn't hurt to be prepared) and some food with you from St. Jean. Train before you go with your pack and boots.

When I started, I had twice the recommended weight on my pack (over 20K), and my boots were too heavy (plus I didn't train - figured I was in good enough shape thru boxing and karate, but that's a different kind of fitness). The 2nd day is tough going as well - I ended up stopping at Zubiri, which is still a long ways to go. After the 2nd day, pain and blisters forced me to a 10K-a-day pace for about a week and a half. Ended up leaving stuff behind each night at whatever albergue I crashed at (you could track my route by my discards) or mailing it ahead to Santiago until my pack was a decent weight.

Also bought a lighter pair of boots in Logrono at Planeta Agua (good Camino-specific outdoor shop) and spent an extra day there to break them in and rest. The woman who ran the Roncal albergue in Cizur Menor (before Logrono) advised me to line my boot inserts with maxipads - keeps the feet dry and provided a bit of padding. "We have to find cheap and easy solutions on the Camino," she said - amen to that.

Over time, with my spanish boots and lighter pack, I got in better walking shape and began to go farther and farther. I

Anyway, hope the best for your trek - buen Camino!
 
Vinotinto:
Thanks for the valuable tips/advice from your experience. I've got the boots and have already started my training by walking short lengths of 5-7 km every other day. Back-pack weight concerns me somewhat, but will try to keep to the 10 kg limit. Do you include water/food in that calculation, since these will probably add up to something around a kilo?

For anyone who has travelled during May/June, what are your recommendations for rainwear?
K.
 
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Hi Keith,
Brendan again getting involved in your Pilgrimage. Have been looking at some replies you have had, which are very good, and thought I might add/endorse a little.
From what you haven't said it appears you don't have a deadline to arrive in Santiago - if that is the case, wonderful, take 'robtwards99' advice and don't push too hard, enjoy the open air, the space, the time .....
I don't think 'keeping up enthusiasm' should be too much of a problem - just keep planning, looking at the route, place to visit, accomodation, then check things again, enjoy the preparations and anticipation and then become a pain to those around you as you go on about what you are undertaking!! In actual fact I think you will find that those around you will be fascinated and excited by what you are doing; many people are not able, for many reasons, to undertake such a journey and their 'pilgrimage' will be made through you; when you think about it, it becomes quite humbling.
Hope to hear from you again before you start walking.
Buen Camino

Brendan
 
vinotinto said:
The woman who ran the Roncal albergue in Cizur Menor (before Logrono) advised me to line my boot inserts with maxipads - keeps the feet dry and provided a bit of padding. "We have to find cheap and easy solutions on the Camino," she said - amen to that.

Maxipads in the boots! Brilliant! I've got to try that next time.
 
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Back-pack weight concerns me somewhat, but will try to keep to the 10 kg limit. Do you include water/food in that calculation, since these will probably add up to something around a kilo?

Well, I know that I didn't include food and water in with the 10K weight. Frankly, I don't think I ever reached the magic 10K, even discounting food and water. Even when I was close to Santiago people commented on how heavy my packed looked. I think I got rid of at least 5K between St. Jean and, say, Burgos. But I never weighed my pack again because I figured I'd get psyched out if it was still far away from 10K.

So, I suppose I was still beyond the recommended limit by a couple of kilograms, but after awhile I couldn't figure out anything else to get rid of - I'm not that much of a minimalist, I guess :)
 
Hi to all!

In anticipation of my walk next May/June, Ihave purchased the Lonely Planet Spanish Phrasebook which includes phonetic equivalence for Spanish to help with proper pronunciation. However, to allow me to attain a certain proficiency it is, of course, better to hear it spoken by a native speaker. Listening to myself doesn't exactly do the job :) I know I have read it somewhere on this forum about Spanish language CDs. Any advice on this would be much welcomed.
Thanks.
Keith
 
keith said:
Hi to all!
I know I have read it somewhere on this forum about Spanish language CDs. Any advice on this would be much welcomed.

Before I left for Spain, I used a couple of CD packages to hone my Spanish skills.

First, I used the Pimsleur Basic package while driving to and from work. With Pimsleur, you won't gain a lot of vocabulary, but their method does help with learning (at least with my style of comprehension). Depending on the package you buy, you get between 5 and 10 CDs, each with a 30-minute lesson that tends to be travel oriented. The comprehensive package is pretty expensive, but the introductory/basic ones are fairly cheap.

I also used One-Day Spanish, by Elisabeth Smith. One-Day Spanish is good because it focuses on useful travel phrases (ordering food, asking directions, etc.) using European Spanish (vs. Latin American Spanish). It's a single CD that's only about 70 minutes long, and it's kind of like a play/dialogue between Elisabeth Smith and a fellow airline passenger named Andy. She's teaching him Spanish on the plane ride to prepare him for his Spanish holiday. If you have a time crunch, this is the one to get (and if you take an iPod, you can easily burn it onto the iPod for some refresher work while in Spain). It also comes with a phrase pamphlet, which I wish I hadn't forgotten at home.

Between the Pimsleur and One-Day Spanish (along with what I picked up on the way, and also some words that bubbled up from HS Spanish), I managed to do things like ask for directions and order food. The two packages complement each other, and you can get both for a cheap amount.

I tried using an inexpensive package called iSpeak Spanish, which is geared for an iPod. It's basically a bunch of travel-related phrases you can load onto your iPod. You'll also be able to see the phrase go across the iPod screen as you hear it. Sounds good in theory, but I never used it. Can you imagine a clerk waiting for you to spin thru your iPod for the right phrase to order coffee - and then talk to him with plugs in your ears? Better to memorize such phrases, or have a small phrase book handy.

After returning from the Camino in September of this year, I decided to throw myself into learning Spanish (I took two years of it in high-school back in the 80s, but I wasn't very disciplined back then). Right now I'm enrolled in an adult continuing education course at a local community college (non-credit). The course is 7 weeks long, and meets twice a week for two two-hour sessions. We're working in groups writing dialogues, and also using a Spanish Middle/High School 100 Reproducible Activities workbook from Frank Schaffer publications, and a portable Berlitz Latin American Spanish Phrasebook and Dictionary. Our "final exam" will be going out as a class to a local Mexican restaurant and ordering everything in Spanish. It's been a fun way to meet people and learn in a different (and fairly cheap) way.

I asked my instructor (a native Mexican) for some self-study suggestions, and she recommended Destinos. Destinos is a Spanish language soap opera on DVD that's designed to help the viewer learn Spanish in an engaging way. Depending on the packages you get, it may come with workbooks and audio helps. However, you have to order it from the publisher, and it's pretty spendy (I've yet to bite the bullet and buy it, but I'm leaning in that direction). Here's a link to some info:

http://highered.mcgraw-hill.com/sites/0 ... ter_view0/

I'm also using CDs to learn Spanish during my commute. I tried Michel Thomas's Speak Spanish for Beginners 10-CD package, but I didn't like his method - it was hard to understand him, and his one-after-the-other methodology didn't fit my learning style, and I got bored with it. I also didn't care for the Living Language travel language CD - too fast for me (although to be fair, I only tried their French CD).

However, I have found two CD learning programs I like so far: Behind the Wheel Spanish, and Learning Spanish Like Crazy.

Behind the Wheel Spanish is pretty good - the instructor (who speaks his part in English) has a decent, if somewhat monotone, manner, and his Spanish speaker is clear and easy to understand (as some Amazon reviewers have stated, he kind of sounds like Antonio Banderas). Level One comes with a book that has various written exercises that complement the 8 CDs. The CDs are broken down into various track lengths, so you can go back and forth as you wish. Levels Two and Three are also available, but I haven't bought them. The only drawback to the Level One set is a somewhat 2nd-hand production quality. The CDs are packed directly on top of each other in the plastic case, and the CD tracks are a bit uneven (lessons vary in length, and the endings can be funky - some go on in silence for a long time, others cut out a bit too quickly).

Learning Spanish Like Crazy is the spendiest one I've tried, and I'm not too far into it. But even so, it's my favorite. The speakers are clear, and the method suits my learning style. Others have said that it not only copies the Pimsleur method, but improves upon it. I'm only on the 4th lesson in the Level One package (there are 30 in Level 1, 2 30-minute lessons per CD). Even so, I like how they avoid making repetition boring. The packaging is decent (although one of plastic holders arrived with external damage), and they offer bonus downloads such as extra lessons and .pdf transcripts. So far the main packages come in two levels (available separately) with a total of 60 lessons (1-30 is Level 1, and 31-60 is Level 2). But you can get the Light or Super Light versions for cheap if want to try it out.

Beside Destinos, I may also try the Rosetta Stone software package. Like Destinos, it's pretty spendy. But there is a European Spanish package, which is cool, since most of the ones I've cited focus on Latin American Spanish (which is close enough).

I bought the products I tried either from Barnes & Noble or Amazon.com. As I did, you might want to spend some time on Amazon reading the reviews for various Spanish instructional products. And again, if your time is limited, you might want to focus on the travel-oriented or intro versions to get those essential phrases down - like ordering cafe con leche - or my favorite: vinto tinto! ;-)

At any rate, I wish you buena suerte learning Spanish. The little I learned certainly helped me on the Way. Buen Camino! :)
 
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Hi Keith.

Let me first wish you the best of luck in preparing for your camino. You will be fine, trust me!
I liked vinotinto's advice on learning Spanish.
I feel compelled now to sign up for organized program, but unlike vinotinto, I have not yet done so.
I too used the "Destinos" program from the Annenberg Center/PBS.
It is available on-line for free (you must register) at this site:
http://www.learner.org/resources/series75.html
 
Hi everyone,
My daughters and I did some parts of the pilgrimage last August. It was an incredible experience Ican hardly stop talking and thinking about. I know I must go back there again one day and do the whole road. It's not an easy thing to do but for some reason it is addictive. I keep telling people, who ask me how it was, that it was wonderful and they say " oh I bet... Spain, sun etc", they give this sort of understanding smile that they know that a holiday in Spain must be a great thing, and then I say " Oh , yes, every day we woke up at 5.30 am, picked up our 12 kg backpacks (by the way MUCH TOO HEAVY!!!) and waked 30 - 35 km. Sometimes we didn't get a bed, so we walked another 5 km...yes it was absolutely fantastic!". Then I look at those who listen to me and I can see how their smiles fade away not being sure wether I'm telling the truth or making fun of them :shock: :roll:
Well yes! It was fantastic! But I guess it very much depends on your definition of the word "fantastic" .If you prefer spending your holidays lying on the beach drinking cool lemonade the pilgrimage may be a great challange for you. But anyway, I still think It may be the most fantastic challange in your life. Be brave and do it! Show yourself you can do more you thought :D
Good Luck
Jola from Poland
 
Hi Keith, I started taking spanishlessons 2 months ago twice a week (highschoollevel) and have also tried to listen to some of the spanish courses on cd, and let me tell you its much better (at least for me)being in a class and getting instant feedback and interacting with other students, though my class is not a "travelspanish-languageclass"(which is what I wanted to begin with) im so glad that im learning all the grammar, alphabet, basics etc.... I thought that it would be a waste of time, but its gives a good foundation. Well there is a podcast I can recommend, that can be downloaded for free (you can in addition buy some worksheets that goes with it for about 10 euros) on http://www.notesinspanish.com. I listen to it on my ipod,for a little extra help. By the way im going on my first camino in april. Hope that my 7 months of spanishpractice will pay off :D . Buen camino from Molle
 
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Thanks for responding to my inquiry regarding Spanish-language CDs. There appears to be a wide range of possibilities to choose from. Thanks vinotinto for your extensive review and to Kevin for your recommendation on an internet source. I have a fair comprehension and use of converstaional French which should help in making the transition to Spanish. As Molle stated, you learn another language much better when interacting with those who speak it. I plan on taking a Spanish course at a local college early in the new year. In the meantime, I'd like to get a head start with some of the material you have all suggested.
Good luck Molle on your walk next April. I'll be following behind you about a month later.
Keith
 
Here's a website that will keep up your Spanish vocabulary in an almost painless way. It's called "Spanish Word of the Day" from the company Transparent Language. Here is the website: http://www.transparent.com/

They send you a word every day via email. You can just read it or turn on your speakers and hear it pronounced. Ten seconds and delete. About every two weeks they will also send and email encouraging you to buy one of their products but otherwise not too intrusive. You can even turn it off for a week or two if you go away and don't want to come home to a full inbox.

They offer word of the day in several languages other than Spanish.

- Derek
 

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