O Cebreiro to Triacastela - main or alternate

Gekkosan said:

When exiting O Cebreiro, there is a fork. To the right is what the map marks as the “main” and “recommended” route. It’s the “new” route and it goes along the highway. To the left, is the “alternate” way, through the mountain.
I could not find any reference to what the difference might be. Most pilgrims were taking the “main” route.
I asked the hostel owner about it, and she seemed contemptuous of the “new” trail, calling it “uncomfortable “.
It was a lovely, sunny day, so I saw no harm in taking the “alternate” path.
I did not regret it. It was a lovely hike across incredibly beautiful mountain scenery.
It does have one steep climb at the start, but if you did the climb to O Cebreiro, this is but an insignificant hop, over in a few minutes. Provided it is not raining or snowing, I see no reason not to take this route.
BTW, having started in Astorga, I must say that O Cebreiro has been my favorite stop by far. Lovely tiny village!

Click to expand...

Hmm, which map are you referring to? The route from O Cebreiro has always swung left through the trees and over the heath to Liñares. Then it drops right of the road until the Alto do Poio. Walking the LU-633, the road, has only ever been recommended in adverse weather. Are you looking at a cycling app?

Edit: after a little reflection I have had a moment of horror. Are you saying that Xunta de Galicia have installed yet another stretch of "Autopista de Peregrino"? A "lovely" length of gravelled path, nice drainage channels, unnecessary Mojones and the occasional useless information board "you are now 150 km 416cm from your shopping opportunity" - I wish I still had a sense of humour

I thought the descent from Fonfria to Triacastela was the most beautiful on the Camino above the clouds looking down into the valley stunning.

Gekkosan said:

When exiting O Cebreiro, there is a fork. To the right is what the map marks as the “main” and “recommended” route. It’s the “new” route and it goes along the highway. To the left, is the “alternate” way, through the mountain.
I could not find any reference to what the difference might be. Most pilgrims were taking the “main” route.
I asked the hostel owner about it, and she seemed contemptuous of the “new” trail, calling it “uncomfortable “.
It was a lovely, sunny day, so I saw no harm in taking the “alternate” path.
I did not regret it. It was a lovely hike across incredibly beautiful mountain scenery.
It does have one steep climb at the start, but if you did the climb to O Cebreiro, this is but an insignificant hop, over in a few minutes. Provided it is not raining or snowing, I see no reason not to take this route.
BTW, having started in Astorga, I must say that O Cebreiro has been my favorite stop by far. Lovely tiny village!

Click to expand...

I have walked both paths that you referred to. The one to the left over the hill was definitely nicer but, in 2019, was what finally broke me.

As you said, it is only a small hill and not at all a big deal but I had managed to catch Legionella back in Sahagun without realising it. I thought that I had a bad cold or influenza. I had stubbornly continued walking while my lungs filled with fluid and I really struggled to breathe going up that hill.

Usually I recovered on the descent but that day I didn't. I dragged myself on until I saw this sign


This got me thinking because I knew that something was seriously amiss. I struggled up this gentle incline to the small village and stopped for a rest in the bar. A good choice because I collapsed in the bar and the nice people there called an ambulance for me.

After recovering in hospital and recuperating for a couple of days in Portugal with a friend I returned to O Cebrerio to re-walk this stretch and out of curiosity I walked the path to the right, along the road. There were a lot of other pilgrims on this route. While the route was along the side of the road the views were just as spectacular.