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I wonder what they've got planned for 2179.Alcañices, where the treaty agreeing the Portuguese border was signed in 1297, and where Margarita Ferreras, one of the poets on the generation of 1927, was born.
Another option for visiting that absolute delight of a church is to stay in Valdeperdices. There is a hall with a wooden stage that makes an adequate bed.
From Verin you also have an option to connect with Sanabres already in Laza....
My rough estimate shows about 15 days, but of course Alan will fill us in live!
8 days Zamora to Verín
3 days Verín to Ourense
4 days Ourense to Santiago
We are quickly coming to the conclusion that it will be our Way of choice from Zamora. Thank you.@Jay Es I speak virtually no Portuguese. It wasn't a problem: almost everybody seemed to understand me when I spoke slowly in Spanish - even if I didn't always understand the answer it was usually fairly easy to work out. The only real conversations I had were in French, which a lot of people speak, having worked in Geneva or France. Nobody I met spoke English.
It's a very lovely route. The final stage to join the Sanabrés at Verín is nothing special, involving quite a lot of tarmac and crossing the main motorway to Galicia. But it might well be nicer if not attempted in something close to a blizzard, and the discovery that my waterproof gloves aren't quite as waterproof as all that.
That apart, I would recommend the Camino Zamorano Portugués to anyone - especially the four days in Portugal.
You thought you have waterproof gloves? Oh, you really disappointed me, Alan...But it might well be nicer if not attempted in something close to a blizzard, and the discovery that my waterproof gloves aren't quite as waterproof as all that.
...
I enjoyed following your Camino diary. it sounds so inviting! Is there a guide available for this route? I can’t find anything in the web except the etapas.Edral to Vilardevós
I looked out at 5am and it was still chucking it down, but by dawn a couple of hours later the full moon was setting to the west, and there was hardly a cloud in the sky. Surprisingly the village bar was open early, so I got my coffee and left the hospitable day centre just as the first workers were arriving.
There was then a very lengthy descent to praha fluvial of Segirei, a pleasant picnic spot, although the river Mente was in full spate after last night's rain, so a morning dip was not on the cards. I passed a couple of farmers taking their cows to the fields after milking, otherwise no one. Quite a lot of wild boar scat and once, miles from any house, I saw what I think might have been wolf prints - heading in the same direction as a lot of deer tracks, which might not have been good news for the latter.
From the Mente gorge it's about four hours of continuous uphill, mostly fairly gentle, but with a few stairways to heaven that weren't pleasant walking after the rain. Partly following the smugglers' Ruta do Contrabando, which crosses the border on a tricky goat track, goes past the jaw-dropping mare's-tail waterfall of the Fervenza da Cidadella and then on up the Río Mouce, past an almost absurdly pretty series of waterfall staircases: luckily for me the sun was still "gilding pale streams with heavenly alchemy". A few km later you start slowly to go downhill and to pass a few inhabited villages, and in Vilardevós, 13km shy of Verín, there was the chance of food and a bed, both of which I took. The nice lady in the bar tells me that snow is coming.
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Thank you, PaulHi, there is no uptodate guide at the moment but our Association, the Friends of Camino in Zamora, is working on one. The route, the Camino Zamorano Portugués, confusingly but logically also known as the Vía de la Plata Portugués, has been altered over the last few years to avoid a lot of road walking, and we have opened some new traditional donativo albergues to shorten the previously long stages. The most recent English-language guide is Alison Raju's classic 2005 guide, which a few people are still using. Alan, who stayed here, will I'm sure reply also. Come and see us on the Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/310579223201772/ Albergue Ricobayo for news and features, including stages and accommodation. We will be pleased to answer any questions you may have. Best wishes, Paul at Albergue Ricobayo, night 1 out of Zamora.
I would very much like to walk this camino in the next year or so. It is so wonderful to read about the albergue system being put in place, and about hospitaleros like @Paul_Garland — Thank you!
Reading through this thread again, and having plugged in a few places on google maps, I have a question for those who have walked. It seems like anyone who is interested in visiting San Pedro de la Nave will have to make a detour. Having walked out as a day trip from Zamora when I was on the Vdlp, I can say I can’t imagine being so close and not going back! Do I understand correctly that the two options are:
1. Zamora - Montamarta - Ricobayo (Alan’s route)
2. Zamora - Valdeperdices - Ricobayo (Roughly based on Kiwi-family’s route)
Or maybe other options?
Alan noted that there were plans to put an albergue in Almendra, but that is only 12 km from Ricobayo, so what gives with that?
I haven’t heard of a route via Montamarta. I thought everyone walked from Zamora - either straight to ricobayo or via almendra which makes it a long stage but gives the opportunity to visit the visigothic San Pedro church.noted that there were plans to put an albergue in Almendra, but that is only 12 km from Ricobayo, so what gives with that?
qI would very much like to walk this camino in the next year or so. It is so wonderful to read about the albergue system being put in place, and about hospitaleros like @Paul_Garland — Thank you!
Reading through this thread again, and having plugged in a few places on google maps, I have a question for those who have walked. It seems like anyone who is interested in visiting San Pedro de la Nave will have to make a detour. Having walked out as a day trip from Zamora when I was on the Vdlp, I can say I can’t imagine being so close and not going back! Do I understand correctly that the two options are:
1. Zamora - Montamarta - Ricobayo (Alan’s route)
2. Zamora - Valdeperdices - Ricobayo (Roughly based on Kiwi-family’s route)
Or maybe other options?
Alan noted that there were plans to put an albergue in Almendra, but that is only 12 km from Ricobayo, so what gives with that?
Nicely basic apparently. Some people who have passed through Ricobayo the last 8 months have found it by asking Valdeperdices residents, but most who have asked in Valdeperdices tell me they were told there was nowhere to stay, even Spanish who had no difficulty asking and understanding.Another option for visiting that absolute delight of a church is to stay in Valdeperdices. There is a hall with a wooden stage that makes an adequate bed.
See my reply to your other post. Montamarta to Campillo only makes sense for people walking S from Astorga or SE from Tábara.I haven’t heard of a route via Montamarta. I thought everyone walked from Zamora - either straight to ricobayo or via almendra which makes it a long stage but gives the opportunity to visit the visigothic San Pedro church.
Alan, as a lover of all things Portuguese ( did Costa and Valenca to Fatima as my last two caminos) I really fancy this and anticipate adding it to my VdP in March but have a couple of questions.@Jay Es I speak virtually no Portuguese. It wasn't a problem: almost everybody seemed to understand me when I spoke slowly in Spanish - even if I didn't always understand the answer it was usually fairly easy to work out. The only real conversations I had were in French, which a lot of people speak, having worked in Geneva or France. Nobody I met spoke English.
It's a very lovely route. The final stage to join the Sanabrés at Verín is nothing special, involving quite a lot of tarmac and crossing the main motorway to Galicia. But it might well be nicer if not attempted in something close to a blizzard, and the discovery that my waterproof gloves aren't quite as waterproof as all that.
That apart, I would recommend the Camino Zamorano Portugués to anyone - especially the four days in Portugal.
Not yet I'm afraid. It was due to open last autumn but when laying the floor - it was an abandoned casa consistorial being renovated and converted- it was found that tree routes had grown under the walls, necessitating much more work by the volunteers. José Almeida, permanent hospi at Tábara, and President of the Zamoran Camino Friends, assures me it will be open very soon. I will post in this thread as soon as it is open. Also u can follow updates on fb group <Albergue Ricobayo>. Paul, hospi, Ricobayo.Does anyone know if the albergue in Almendra opened ?
For the Zamora to Bragança section, the hospis at Ricobayo and Alcañices can help with onward route planning and accommodation. In Bragança we have 2 lovely English-speaking girls there Dina and Juana who are very happy to help for the sections from Bragança to Verín.Alan, as a lover of all things Portuguese ( did Costa and Valenca to Fatima as my last two caminos) I really fancy this and anticipate adding it to my VdP in March but have a couple of questions.
I dont speak any Spanish or Portuguese ( live in France so am fluent in French) is this likely to be a problem when trying to get accomodation/directions? Did you use any particular app when walking this remote section ?
thanks in advance, Mark
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