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Yeah, that's the way it was the day before I started my first Camino. Mid-July, the height of the season. A lot of pilgrims roaming about, and several I saw on and off again throughout my walk. I know some are put-off by the prospect of so many fellow peregrinos in town, but I thought it was cool.If you start walking the Napoleon Route from SJPdP late morning/early afternoon you will be lucky to make it to Refuge Orrison in 3 hours, it is a very exhausting 7.5 km straight up hill. The next stop is still another 18.5 km in Roncesvalles.
Saint Jean is wonderful, albeit touristy, little town teeming with day trippers and a lot of pilgrims anxious to get started on their Camino. There are some fine restaurants and lots to see. The Pilgrim's Office is closed for several hours at lunch time so if you don't already have your credential you won't have an opportunity to get one until Roncesvalles.
I have often compared SJPdP to Gatlinburg, Tennessee as it was in the 1940's and 50's; having vacationed their as a child many times to hike in the Smokey's and swim in mountain streams. I mean this as a compliment.
I don't know what your timetable is but I would suggest spending a night in Saint Jean and taking your first day at a leisurely pace and book at Orrison the next night. You are likely to meet close to 20 or 30 pilgrims in those 2 nights who you will be sharing your experience with for the next 40 days.
Thanks! This is very helpful.If you start walking the Napoleon Route from SJPdP late morning/early afternoon you will be lucky to make it to Refuge Orrison in 3 hours, it is a very exhausting 7.5 km straight up hill. The next stop is still another 18.5 km in Roncesvalles.
Saint Jean is wonderful, albeit touristy, little town teeming with day trippers and a lot of pilgrims anxious to get started on their Camino. There are some fine restaurants and lots to see. The Pilgrim's Office is closed for several hours at lunch time so if you don't already have your credential you won't have an opportunity to get one until Roncesvalles.
I have often compared SJPdP to Gatlinburg, Tennessee as it was in the 1940's and 50's; having vacationed their as a child many times to hike in the Smokey's and swim in mountain streams. I mean this as a compliment.
I don't know what your timetable is but I would suggest spending a night in Saint Jean and taking your first day at a leisurely pace and book at Orrison the next night. You are likely to meet close to 20 or 30 pilgrims in those 2 nights who you will be sharing your experience with for the next 40 days.
Yes, this was extremely helpful. Thanks!I always recommend people stay in St. Jean Pied de Port for at least one full day after arrival, and before the day you start walking. It is a charming and very historic town with much to see.
I usually start my pilgrimage by staying at the Hotel Ramuntcho at #1 Rue de France, on the corner of Rue de Citadelle (the main street in the old section). There are many other, non-albergue, choices there. St. Jean PdP is a old walled city and is interesting to noodle around in and explore. You are there. So, you may as well get the full benefit...
Note: there is an entire separate section of the town on the "flats." As you come from the train station you would proceed straight instead of following the rest of the pilgrims up the streets to the right, into the old, historic town. On the "flats" there is a Carrefour market, another outdoor store, mobile phone shops, etc. I found Google and Google maps in particular to be invaluable in this regard. Also, use the Google online translator to automatically translate web pages as you land on them.
Of course, the historic center also has everything a pilgrim could need. However, shopping in the other section spreads the wealth around and sometimes provides you additional selection. I have found toiletries and outdoor products at the Carrefour market and the nearby outdoors shop that were not available on the Rue de Citadelle.
While you are there, consider sending a piece of luggage with your "tourist" clothing and things you will not need until you get to Santiago by way of Express Bourricot (http://www.expressbourricot.com/). Although not cheap, it is safe, reliable and Caroline is a pleasure to deal with. They will pick the item(s) up at your hotel. I did this both times and it works like a charm.
I recommend trying to use this layover time to avoid the larger tranches of pilgrims departing on Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and (to some extent) Monday. I usually try to depart SJPdP on Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday. This puts you out of the "pig in a python" paradigm at least for the first few days, until the pilgrims sort themselves out.
Note: there is a similar surge all along the Camino relative to weekends and official holidays, especially at towns and cities that have good transportation connections (bus or train) and can be easily reached by the European pilgrims who typically do the Camino in stages as time and finances permit. So, as you progress towards Santiago, you want to plan to try to avoid landing at a major "joining" point on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday. It is sort of like surfing. Except in this model, you are seeking the lull between the larger waves of pilgrims that generate every weekend.
This will become especially important once you reach Sarria and the final 111 Km of the Camino Frances. It is difficult to find any accommodations at Sarria and the major daily stopping places from Sarria to Santiago on Friday night and weekends. So, pace yourself accordingly to avoid undue stress. Sometimes, this means taking a layover day to rest up or to sightsee. Plan on including several days in your overall plan. You can vary them once you are on your way.
I hope this helps.
My husband and I will be arriving in Madrid on August 10 and will then take the train to Pamplona that same day. We have made arrangements to be picked up in Pamplona, and are staying overnight at the Curazon Puro (as recomended on this site--thanks!) and then being driven on August 11 to SJPP.
My question for everyone is this: Do you recommend staying overnight in SJPP and then starting to walk the following day (August 12) or just get to it the day we arrive in SJPP, which likely will be late morning/early afternoon? We're planning to take the Napolean route (weather permitting) and perhaps staying in Orisson if we start walking the day we arrive.
Thanks for the info...and it would be great to get together before we leave for GA. Perhaps once all this snow is gone--sometime in March or May or June (we're out of the area the month of April).Donna,
I would recommend either staying in SJPP or Orisson, but not both--they are just too close together.
We left Pamplona by the 10am bus (as I recall), arrived in SJPP just in time to make the Pilgrim Office before it closed for lunch, had a nice lunch, took our time, walked all of the fortifications to the top, went to see the old Roman bridge, then walked to Orisson. We still got there long before dinner. The next day was over the hump (in a biblical deluge) and into Roncevalles by noon. Those who started in SJPP made it to Roncevalles by late afternoon. If you are used to American mountains, the Pyrenees are not nearly as rough.
BTW, we are in West Haven, CT. If you are close and want to get together before you leave for GA, let me know and we'll work something out.
Buen Camino
... Do you recommend staying overnight in SJPP and then starting to walk the following day (August 12) or just get to it the day we arrive in SJPP, which likely will be late morning/early afternoon? We're planning to take the Napolean route (weather permitting) and perhaps staying in Orisson if we start walking the day we arrive. ...
You have been given already great advice from others, but I still want to stress the point that:
You need to have a reservation for Orisson in August!
You should get your Credencial at home as the pilgrims office in SJPDP will have a long queue in August.
You should have a reservation in SJPDP if you decide to spend a night there.
Buen Camino, SY
Thanks for the advice! I have made a reservation in SJPDP, have ordered our credencials from Ivar, and have sent an email to the alburgue in Orisson, which was the only way I saw to make a reservation. Is that the best way to reserve space? What suggestions do you have if they're filled already in Orisson or I can't make contact sufficiently ahead of time?You have been given already great advice from others, but I still want to stress the point that:
You need to have a reservation for Orisson in August!
You should get your Credencial at home as the pilgrims office in SJPDP will have a long queue in August.
You should have a reservation in SJPDP if you decide to spend a night there.
Buen Camino, SY
The refuge is closed for the season, so you may be waiting a few days for a response, but you are well ahead of the curve in trying to make a reservation this far ahead of time.Thanks for the advice! I have made a reservation in SJPDP, have ordered our credencials from Ivar, and have sent an email to the alburgue in Orisson, which was the only way I saw to make a reservation. Is that the best way to reserve space? What suggestions do you have if they're filled already in Orisson or I can't make contact sufficiently ahead of time?
Thanks!The refuge is closed for the season, so you may be waiting a few days for a response, but you are well ahead of the curve in trying to make a reservation this far ahead of time.
How far in advance should one make a reservation for Orisson? I'd be staying there in June.The refuge is closed for the season, so you may be waiting a few days for a response, but you are well ahead of the curve in trying to make a reservation this far ahead of time.
How far in advance should one make a reservation for Orisson? I'd be staying there in June.
Lisa
On the "flats" there is a Carrefour market, another outdoor store, mobile phone shops, etc.
The sports shop I was referring to is called Maya Sport and is located on the flat part of the town is referenced here: www.pagesjaunes.fr/pro/04426468.
There is no Decathlon in St. Jean Pied de Port.
The other outdoor outfitter is called Direction Compostelle, and is located across the river.
The "main" outdoor shop frequented by pilgrims is the Pilgrim Shop (Le Magazin du Pelerin), located at 32 Rue de Citadelle (the main street in the old town).
The Carrefour market is located near Maya Sport. Here is the URL: www.carrefour.fr/magasin/market-Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
I hope this helps...
A friendly veteran pilgrim runs Direction Compostelle with two specialized shops in SJPdP at 32 rue de la Citadelle and Place Floquet. Here is the web site.Direction Compostelle has always had great clothes/equiptment and the right prices.
A friendly veteran pilgrim runs Direction Compostelle with two specialized shops in SJPdP at 32 rue de la Citadelle and Place Floquet. Here is the web site.
You are all correct that Direction Compostelle and the sister shop down the hill and up a block or two in a building near the river Nive, IS an excellent and pilgrim-friendly shop. I always shop there when I am in town.
Maya Sport offers a wider range of outdoor products, not just pilgrimage-specific stuff. Plus, it is in a small group of varied shops sharing a parking area. The Carrefour market is at the rear of this "shopping center."
I am just trying to encourage pilgrims starting at St Jean Pied de Port to see, learn, and experience more. They may as well available themselves of the opportunity as they are there. IMHO, it also adds value to the overall experience.
I hope this helps...
We'll definitely say hello to them for you! I'm looking forward to meeting them. Istvan has been SO helpful in getting arrangements made for pickup, overnight accommodations, and transport to SJPP. I know having things set for a "relaxed" start-- is that even possible with all the excitement building up??You have been given excellent advice, but you have also made a very good plan for yourself from the start. When you come to Corazon Puro, you will have the best and most relaxed (and least expensive, in total) travel to SJPdP. Say hello to Istvan & Barbara from AlexWalker: They are very good people.
Istvan is a pearl on the Camino; have no fear at all. He is (and his wife) a beautiful person who strives to give you, as a stranger, but a pilgrim, his best. He has gained my full respect, and I am proud to know them both, and considering them as my good friends.Istvan has been SO helpful in getting arrangements made for pickup, overnight accommodations, and transport to SJPP.
Hi, Everyone.
My husband and I will be arriving in Madrid on August 10 and will then take the train to Pamplona that same day. We have made arrangements to be picked up in Pamplona, and are staying overnight at the Curazon Puro (as recomended on this site--thanks!) and then being driven on August 11 to SJPP.
My question for everyone is this: Do you recommend staying overnight in SJPP and then starting to walk the following day (August 12) or just get to it the day we arrive in SJPP, which likely will be late morning/early afternoon? We're planning to take the Napolean route (weather permitting) and perhaps staying in Orisson if we start walking the day we arrive.
While my husband would prefer to see how we feel when we get there, I'm concerned that since we're arriving in August, we may have trouble finding accommodations both in SJPP or Orisson. I've also seen postings here that SJPP is really beautiful and likely worth a stay both to rest up and sight see. So...what do folks think?
Hi, Andrea.Hi Donna -- My first few days in Spain will be the same as yours! Flying to Madrid, train to Pamplona, over night at Curazon Puro, staying over in St. Jean AND in Orrison. I'm thinking that the additional layover in Orrison will help with jetlag and general transition to the Camino. I have made reservations at all locations, so I can just concentrate on "being there". I'm leaving from San Jose, CA on May 27.
Have a wonderful time planning your adventure!
Buen Camino
Andrea
The train isn't selling tickets for my May trip yet. It seems as tho they open the schedule 60 or so days in advance. I went to www.renfe.com to look up schedules and fares and will go back later to make a reservation. There are several ways to get from the Madrid airport to the train station -- bus, train, taxi. It looks like the train is about 30 euros each to Pamplon
I went to REI today and spent hours looking aroundI'm waiting for their March members only sale to buy my pack.
I lived in Atlanta for a hot minute in the 80's -- where are you headed in Georgia??
Take care,
Andrea
Glad to see your post, although I have waited for a reply from Orisson for over a week now for a May booking and the only reply I received was what did I think was bad weather! I had asked to reserve but also asked about what happens if the weather causes problems getting there, which seemed a reasonable question. It has rather made me weary of going there as they might think they can dominate people as there's only one other place to stay! Why are they so slow to respond?Orisson may not be open now for guests but the reservation making has been well underway for some time. No need to wait till April. You can make your reservation now for June. It may take a few days to hear back. Buen Camino.
The roads have been closed in the mountains for about a week, if they could get up there today I can only imagine how much correspondence they have to sift through.Glad to see your post, although I have waited for a reply from Orisson for over a week now for a May booking and the only reply I received was what did I think was bad weather! I had asked to reserve but also asked about what happens if the weather causes problems getting there, which seemed a reasonable question. It has rather made me weary of going there as they might think they can dominate people as there's only one other place to stay! Why are they so slow to respond?
Yet I got a rhetorical reply!The roads have been closed in the mountains for about a week, if they could get up there today I can only imagine how much correspondence they have to sift through.
Oh brother! I would send again, and again. Sheesh!Yet I got a rhetorical reply!
... It has rather made me weary of going there as they might think they can dominate people as there's only one other place to stay! Why are they so slow to respond?
Thanks for the sympathy, it helps a lot more than being told off! In the end I booked somewhere else and then Jean-Jacques came back to offer me a place which I had to decline! However, thanks to this forum I have decided to walk to Orisson on day one, have lunch there and transport back to St Jean and return by transport to Orisson the following day and have a coffee there before continuing to Roncesvalles. Orisson reminds me of restaurants in the mountains I ski in. I start the end of May and can't wait to go back.Oh brother! I would send again, and again. Sheesh!
Thanks for the sympathy, it helps a lot more than being told off! In the end I booked somewhere else and then Jean-Jacques came back to offer me a place which I had to decline! However, thanks to this forum I have decided to walk to Orisson on day one, have lunch there and transport back to St Jean and return by transport to Orisson the following day and have a coffee there before continuing to Roncesvalles. Orisson reminds me of restaurants in the mountains I ski in. I start the end of May and can't wait to go back.
Donna,
I would recommend either staying in SJPP or Orisson, but not both--they are just too close together.
We left Pamplona by the 10am bus (as I recall), arrived in SJPP just in time to make the Pilgrim Office before it closed for lunch, had a nice lunch, took our time, walked all of the fortifications to the top, went to see the old Roman bridge, then walked to Orisson. We still got there long before dinner. The next day was over the hump (in a biblical deluge) and into Roncevalles by noon. Those who started in SJPP made it to Roncevalles by late afternoon. If you are used to American mountains, the Pyrenees are not nearly as rough.
BTW, we are in West Haven, CT. If you are close and want to get together before you leave for GA, let me know and we'll work something out.
Buen Camino
We will be coming in from Paris to Biarritz @ 12.45pm if we catch the early train, I dont know if I can get a taxi or train or bus to SJPP. I was wondering what you think about us be able to get a late start and make to to Orisson by dinner? I didnt want to stay in SJPP instead check in and walk to Orisson is this possible?
Waggs,
I'm trying to see your profile collage to figure out how much experience you have walking. I'm betting from the two pictures with backpacks that you and your husband walk far.
I have no clue about the connections from Biarritz (we came to SJPP from Pamplona). Going back and checking the time stamps on my photos, it took us 2.5 hours to walk from SJPP to Orrison. I would figure 3 hours (my wife walks unreasonably fast, and at the point I was still trying to keep up with her. I gave up that nonsense by day 3).
So I'd email Orrison and ask what time dinner is served (I think it is 6:30om based on the time stamps on my phot0s). If your connections get you into SJPP by 3pm, I'd say you can make it easily (maybe shower after dinner). If you arrive at 4pm, that would be cutting it close. If 5pm, give it up and stay in SJPP.
Also, if my bets are right and you backpack in the U.S. (especially in the American West), the Napoleon route is going to seem like mere foothills compared to what you are used to. Don't get worried about walking SJPP to Roncevalles in one day if you have to. Almost everyone we saw do so did it just fine by 3-4pm (our feet were not all destroyed yet. That would happen by Pamplona). And there are lots of beds in Roncevalles, no rush.
Buen Camino
Jo Jo
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