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Pilgrim-friendly Tapas Bars in Pamplona

jsalt

Jill
Time of past OR future Camino
Portugués, Francés, LePuy, Rota Vicentina, Norte, Madrid, C2C, Salvador, Primitivo, Aragonés, Inglés
Hi, any recommendations for pilgrim-friendly tapas/pinchos bars in Pamplona? Where pilgrims are as welcome as any well-heeled citizens? Or a bar which is particularly popular with pilgrims? Or where a single peregrina can go without feeling awkward on her own? Jill
 
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Jill, I agree with Al's post on going out alone in Spain. I am very frequently walking alone on an untraveled camino. Though I prefer company, I've gotten pretty used to being alone and have never had a problem, not even a sideways glance. That said, one of my favorite places in Pamplona is the Bar/Restaurante Basseri. It's on Calle San Nicolas, not far from the Plaza Mayor. The restaurant, hidden at the back at the end of the bar, also has a great menu del dia, one of the best I've had in Spain.

Every year there is a pintxos contest in Pamplona. I had originally found Basseri because they had won a prize years ago. I've tried to find information on the contest on the web, and it looks like it has spread from a Pamplona-based contest to a Navarra-wide contest. But in any event, here is a list of the prize-winners for this year's contest:
http://www.semanadelpincho.es/premiados But it looks like much more haute cuisine than the average pilgrim cares to indulge in.

Given the high number of tourists in Pamplona, there is, IMO, an increase in the number of places serving bad tourist food, so I think getting names of places is a good idea. Buen camino, Laurie
 
Jill, I agree with Al's post on going out alone in Spain. I am very frequently walking alone on an untraveled camino. Though I prefer company, I've gotten pretty used to being alone and have never had a problem, not even a sideways glance. That said, one of my favorite places in Pamplona is the Bar/Restaurante Basseri. It's on Calle San Nicolas, not far from the Plaza Mayor. The restaurant, hidden at the back at the end of the bar, also has a great menu del dia, one of the best I've had in Spain.

Every year there is a pintxos contest in Pamplona. I had originally found Basseri because they had won a prize years ago. I've tried to find information on the contest on the web, and it looks like it has spread from a Pamplona-based contest to a Navarra-wide contest. But in any event, here is a list of the prize-winners for this year's contest:
http://www.semanadelpincho.es/premiados But it looks like much more haute cuisine than the average pilgrim cares to indulge in.

Given the high number of tourists in Pamplona, there is, IMO, an increase in the number of places serving bad tourist food, so I think getting names of places is a good idea. Buen camino, Laurie


Thanks for the recommendation, Laurie. We're planning a rest day in Pamplona (have always wanted to spend a little time there) and will definitely check out Basseri.

The contest winners have certainly come a long way since the days of a few nuts or a piece of cheese set on a plate to cover your wine glass. :) I think my favorite is the award for "Best Skewer Made from Fattened Duck Products," which Google Translate describes as "Foie micuit wrapped in mango jelly, on tiles, with coffee and brandy." I have a feeling doesn't do close to justice to the original Spanish :eek: :eek: , but it looks pretty awesome! Bala
 
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Al is absolutely correct. Basseri was good my impression was fusion pinchos more cute then what I expected (foie gras on raisen bread?!?). I prefer Tapas Bar Gaucho, Calle Espoz y Mina (just off Plaza del Castillo) a more classical choice.
 
There is a group of locals who meet every Tuesday night for tapas and love English speaking pilgrims.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/english-language-club-in-pamplona.26581/

Thanks, Kanga, it seems they meet on Wednesdays now. From their Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/pamplonahi): “See you tomorrow Wednesday to practice English! You can join and leave whenever you want between 7pm and 10pm at Zentral's terrace (Plaza de los Burgos). Just go, join a group and start talking in English! Easy!”
 
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This might be a weird question, but if one doesn't drink wine or beer but would still like to get tapas, how do you do that? I have never been to Spain and don't know how the whole tapas thing works. Thanks!
 
This might be a weird question, but if one doesn't drink wine or beer but would still like to get tapas, how do you do that? I have never been to Spain and don't know how the whole tapas thing works. Thanks!
No problem! Just order a coke, or orange juice, or water, etc instead :)
 
Simple tapas are often freely given but listen to the Spanish customers around you, someone will ask '¿tienes alguna tapa?' (have you got any tapas?), to try and wing a freebie. Pay attention to the answer: if the waiter nods and walks away, they will deliver something good. But if he starts reciting the menu, it means they will charge you for whatever you choose. It’s a subtle, but obvious, difference: if you don’t get to choose your tapas-it's free , but if you pay you are welcome to help yourself to the best of the menu. These paid portions are usually called pinchos (one to two portions) or raciones (a serving size for up to three people) to differentiate them from tapas. there is no need to reach for your wallet whenever a waiter brings a beer to your table with a small plate of anchoas en vinagre on the side. You don’t pay for tapas as they are given out of gratitude for ordering drinks in a bar. The price of your drink remains unaffected whether you choose to have the tapa or not although it is good manners to eat it. Don't be afraid to belly up to the bar, its the only way to see whats interesting and the barman will find a place for the plate or two that you ordered. The other option is to stand back and watch other people enjoying themselves.
 
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Never found an unfriendly Tapas bar anywhere in Spain, ever! Pilgrim or not. ( Not that I frequent Tapas bars of course).

Al, I’m glad to hear that for the tapas bars in Pamplona. One reason for my question is that several times (not just once or twice) I, or a fellow pilgrim, have been totally ignored by the barman until the locals have been served. Now, I understand the logic (I will never be back, but the local will), so I patiently wait, but I don’t find this pilgrim friendly at all. When a similar thing happened to me recently in the UK, the customer pointed to me, and said that this lady was first. I know that the most popular bars in Pamplona are always crowded and busy, so I guess for tourists, pilgrims and locals, getting served at a busy bar is probably much the same for everyone. I just wondered if some places are better than others for inexperienced pilgrims trying out tapas bars for the first time.
 
PS How well can you keep score after two or three glasses of wine, two or three beers? These tasty little things quickly add uyp and you may find quite a bill. Secondly, the clock over the albergue door is ticking, keep an eye on that too!
 
The price of your drink remains unaffected whether you choose to have the tapa or not although it is good manners to eat it.

I was all alone in a bar on the way to Finistera, and the host gave me some meaty tapas with my beer. I don’t eat meat, but I thanked him for the plate. Each time he went out I quickly put a piece in my pocket. There was no way I could tell him that I really didn’t want them.
 
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Hi jsalt - when will you be in Pamplona? David, Saint Mike II and I will be in Pamplona for the nights of 3 and 4 September. It would be fantastic to meet up with you if our dates coincide with yours.
Cheers - Jenny
 
I know this is in the CF thread, but one of the things that we loved about the Norte was the number of places that, as a matter of course, gave us free tapas with our drinks. It seemed very competitive in some towns. Great!
 
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Thanks, Kanga, it seems they meet on Wednesdays now. From their Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/pamplonahi): “See you tomorrow Wednesday to practice English! You can join and leave whenever you want between 7pm and 10pm at Zentral's terrace (Plaza de los Burgos). Just go, join a group and start talking in English! Easy!”

Thanks Jill, I'll go back to the old threads and add that information to the bottom incase anyone is searching and gets misled.
 
Pamplona is tapas and pincho heaven. Just walk into any bar and the variety on display will blow you away. My two very best favourites are: Meson Pirineo and La Estafeta (pictures below) both situated in Calle de Estafeta, not far from the Cathedral.
 

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If you can be in Pamplona on Thursday night for jeuvepintxos, €2 pintxos up and down calle estafeta, if they charge more than €2, go to another one. I was in a group of five, each of us bought a round for €10 and were full and content after five different pintxos bars.
 
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Hi jsalt - when will you be in Pamplona? David, Saint Mike II and I will be in Pamplona for the nights of 3 and 4 September. It would be fantastic to meet up with you if our dates coincide with yours.
Cheers - Jenny

Thank you Jenny! I shall be in Pamplona on 18 October. I have booked a bed at Casa Ibarrola, a private albergue, which you can access with a keycard after 10pm, just in case I get to go out on the town that night! Does a Sunday night make a difference in Pamplona?? I didn’t book ahead at all last year (in June/July), but this time I know exactly where I want to stay the first few days, so I might as well book now the popular places that have few beds. Jill
 
I know this is in the CF thread, but one of the things that we loved about the Norte was the number of places that, as a matter of course, gave us free tapas with our drinks. It seemed very competitive in some towns. Great!

On my first CF (Oct/Nov) I was often given tapas with my drink. On my second camino (Jun/Jul) never. Too many pilgrims I guess. Hoping to be given tapas again this time in Oct/Nov ;)
 
Cafe Aruna in Pamplona, not a tapas bar, but 3 course meal with wine. I was 2 nights in Pamplona during my camino from Le Puy last year. Ate there with a fellow pilgrim the first night, we were given 2 bottles of wine. Went back there the following night.
 
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This might be a weird question, but if one doesn't drink wine or beer but would still like to get tapas, how do you do that? I have never been to Spain and don't know how the whole tapas thing works. Thanks!

From my experience along Calle Estafeta in Pamplona, we had three options, wine, beer, or bottled water (300ml,) if you want a soft drink of some sort they charge extra.
 
........One reason for my question is that several times (not just once or twice) I, or a fellow pilgrim, have been totally ignored by the barman until the locals have been served. ..........so I guess for tourists, pilgrims and locals, getting served at a busy bar is probably much the same for everyone. I just wondered if some places are better than others for inexperienced pilgrims trying out tapas bars for the first time.
My experience is not exactly the same as yours, but I think it bears mentioning.

It was somewhere between Sarria and Santiago in a very crowded bar, wholly patronized, at least it appeared to me, by peregrinos. There was a mad crush, with no line up, and no sense of order as to who was going to be served next. When I finally made it up to the counter, I noticed that other pilgrims who, I was positive, had arrived at the counter after I had, were being served first. I stood there for a while observing the goings on, and it appeared to me that whoever was the most assertive was the next one who got served. So .... I decided to be assertive too (actually, to me, it was more like being 'pushy' but I tried it anyway). And it worked...at the first try.

Although this little endeavour took me out of my comfort zone, no one seemed perturbed by it, least of all the bartender. I thought the whole exercise was worthwhile and interesting.
 
My experience is not exactly the same as yours, but I think it bears mentioning.

It was somewhere between Sarria and Santiago in a very crowded bar, wholly patronized, at least it appeared to me, by peregrinos. There was a mad crush, with no line up, and no sense of order as to who was going to be served next. When I finally made it up to the counter, I noticed that other pilgrims who, I was positive, had arrived at the counter after I had, were being served first. I stood there for a while observing the goings on, and it appeared to me that whoever was the most assertive was the next one who got served. So .... I decided to be assertive too (actually, to me, it was more like being 'pushy' but I tried it anyway). And it worked...at the first try.

Although this little endeavour took me out of my comfort zone, no one seemed perturbed by it, least of all the bartender. I thought the whole exercise was worthwhile and interesting.
My experience in many non-peregrino tapas bars is "he/she who hesitates is lost!"! Nothing unfortunate or disastrous no impoliteness but he/she will remain thirsty and hungry. In that crowded bar somewhere between Sarria and Santiago, you were competing with veterans!
 
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Yes, it's not aggressive, but to get served you need to be a "hustler".
 

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