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Hi, @Rowena, Welcome to Invierno thread. I’m assuming based on your preferred stages that you would take the opportunity to spend night one in Villavieja. Borrenes is about 6 kms further on, most of it downhill on asphalt, but many people like to start with shorter stages at the beginning, and Villavieja is perfect for that. The new manager has stated that she will prepare food (or provide food) if needed, but that would be something to nail down before leaving because there is no place to buy food in Villavieja.I’m interested in shorter days (18-22 km or so),
I realize that the distances are all approximate, but I notice that the 2019 guide shows 20.3 km from Ponferrada to Borrenes. Was that a typo, or are you getting your distances from somewhere else?Day 1. Ponferrada to Borrenes (23 km)
DRATS. I know I always mess up my distances, and I just keep on doing it. The distances in the form guide are all accurate with wiggle room.I realize that the distances are all approximate, but I notice that the 2019 guide shows 20.3 km from Ponferrada to Borrenes. Was that a typo, or are you getting your distances from somewhere else?
Yes, I am pretty sure we discuss that option in the guide. I personally think it would be a shame to miss both the really beautiful little village of Villavieja as well as the castle. But you are absolutely right that it would be a flat walk on the side of the road, missing the ascent totally., I noticed N536 avoids villavieja completely, taking one to Borrenas a bit quicker?
Thank you to the three of you for sharing your passion and knowledge.So far we are a great team of three Invierno vets — me with the nuts and bolts; @Theatregal, who can be counted on for fantastic descriptions of the walk, the natural surroundings, the views, the feelings; and @Charrito with the details on every single watering hole on the Invierno (not to mention good restaurant recommendations). What more do you need?!
I'll check in on alternate days when I'm not checking in on the LanaThat way we have time for more commentary from those who are not as slavishly addicted to the forum and who may onlycheck in every few days.
So will I!I will be taking notes!!
Yes, I am pretty sure we discuss that option in the guide. I personally think it would be a shame to miss both the really beautiful little village of Villavieja as well as the castle. But you are absolutely right that it would be a flat walk on the side of the road, missing the ascent totally.
As far as pavement on this first stage goes, we do go through a lot of little villages, all of which have paved streets. But the arrows and mojones really take you off road a lot. Specifically, the climb up to Villavieja as well as the much shorter climb from there to Cornatel are all off road. The descent from the castle to Borrenes is all on the road, though. Overall, I don’t have a memory of pavement pounding.
Oh, and did I mention that the Invierno is probably the most heavily signed camino in Spain?
What time of year did you go?I noticed that from Villalibre to past Santalla the road had pavement several streches and I considered it would have been easier walking along the road than on the partly mudded path below.
Castillo Cornatel is a must whichever way get up there.
Hi, @ranthr,I Villavieja I was most concerned about the big dogs and did not even see the albergue.
I walked in May. Remember I was ¨in Puente Domingos de Florez on the 17 th, since it is the National Day in Norway.What time of year did you go?
Sorry, I missed it earler. I noted your comment regarding the “mud” and thought it might be springtime.I walked in May. Remember I was ¨in Puente Domingos de Florez on the 17 th, since it is the National Day in Norway.
Thank you! I do plan on staying in Villavieja, walking there from Molinaseca. Great to know the scary dog is gone.Hi, @Rowena, Welcome to Invierno thread. I’m assuming based on your preferred stages that you would take the opportunity to spend night one in Villavieja. Borrenes is about 6 kms further on, most of it downhill on asphalt, but many people like to start with shorter stages at the beginning, and Villavieja is perfect for that. The new manager has stated that she will prepare food (or provide food) if needed, but that would be something to nail down before leaving because there is no place to buy food in Villavieja.
I remember ascent to Villavieja, and from there the ascent to the castle, as being forested and shaded. And every now and then you will get some fabulous views of the castle and you will wonder how in the world did they ever build that building way up there. You will see the answer when you get up there — they came at it from behind. But the views on the way to Villavieja are really impressive.Are there shaded areas...or all in the sun?
You get down to the road after Villalibre and then it's just a few hundred yards to Santalla. Pavements on both sides.I noticed that from Villalibre to past Santalla the road had pavement several streches and I considered it would have been easier walking along the road than on the partly mudded path below.
Castillo Cornatel is a must whichever way get up there.
You are talking about the Hotel Rural Cornatel in Borrenes village, aren't you, and not the Casa Rural Cornatel up in the village of Villavieja?Instead I stayed the night in hotel Rural Cornatel and was not impressed either of the room or the food in the bar. This was in May 2018.
If you are planning to spend the first night in Borrenes, then you have three different ways of getting there from Santalla.All of these responses have been very helpful. I appreciate nuts and bolts, and location of every open bar, restaurant, and particular every food market along the way. Planner am I! Short cuts help too. Getting an aesthetic sense of the route is helpful as well. On Gronze’s map, I noticed N536 avoids villavieja completely, taking one to Borrenas a bit quicker? If it is a hot Sept. this could be an option as well. Can you tell me how much of this 27.8 km section is pavement? And is it consistently exposed, or are there shady sections.
You won't find anything like medium-size/large supermarkets until you get down to Puente de Domingo Flórez, but most small towns/villages have the typical 'bar-tienda', where you can stock up on most essentials.every food market along the way
Are there ant ATMs along this route? We can keep section to section as Laurie is organizing it. If you remember and, it would be appreciated.. Thanks.You won't find anything like medium-size/large supermarkets until you get down to Puente de Domingo Flórez, but most small towns/villages have the typical 'bar-tienda', where you can stock up on most essentials.
Based on past experience, though, and depending on the day or time of day when you set off, you might be advised to stock up in Ponferrada.
There are loads in Ponferrada, of course. You have Abanca in Priaranza, another Abanca in Carucedo (a kilometre and a bit from Borrenes, down on the N-536), and loads more when you get down to Puente de Domingo Flórez the following day.Are there ant ATMs along this route? We can keep section to section as Laurie is organizing it. If you remember and, it would be appreciated.. Thanks.
The bar, as I said, is now closed. Saturno is an excellent cook and the food, in my humble opinion, and as one of Laurie's 'foodies', is very good.
I have been to Medulas twice and the drive from Ponferrrada did not look to exciting. Would I miss much if I skipped this stage?DRATS. I know I always mess up my distances, and I just keep on doing it. The distances in the form guide are all accurate with wiggle room.
Thanks for checking up on me.
Ponferrada to Villavieja - 16 km
Villavieja to Borrenes - 4 km
Borrenes to Médulas - 7 km
I think you intended this as a tongue in cheek comment, but I can think of at least one pilgrim who writes that they want to keep the less frequented routes a secret. (I guess that they're serious, notwithstanding the irony that they raise the visibility of the routes that they're talking about by repeatedly posting this point of view on the relevant forums ...).on the other hand, we want to keep it a closely-guarded secret, just for us!
1. It has certainly improved over the last couple of years.I’ve never slept in Borrenes, so I can’t give any first hand comments on lodging. But, as @Charrito has pointed out, your only choice is the Hotel Rural Cornatel Médulas. I am surprised to see that it is a 3-star hotel — has there been some serious upgrading? @ranther, does the website look anything like where you stayed in 2018?
Charrito, a couple more Borrenes questions — is the bar permanently closed? I believe the bar was owned by/run by Marisol and Saturno, no? Is there now no bar in Borrenes?
Do you know what the pilgrim prices are in the hotel, if any? The website says 60€ for a double, that’s kind of steep.
I had heard that there is an albergue in the works, do you have any news about that?
Saturno is, I believe, the head of a local camino business organization, so he is definitely attuned to pilgrims and pilgrim needs.
I stayed here and it was very nice, but 3 star? It seemed like an upmarket CR, but without the bells and whistles that I tend to associate with three star hotels— like gyms and swimming pools. Well, I guess I don't know what is meant by *** exactly. And if there was a swimming pool and a gym I didn't pay any attention to that.I’ve never slept in Borrenes, so I can’t give any first hand comments on lodging. But, as @Charrito has pointed out, your only choice is the Hotel Rural Cornatel Médulas. I am surprised to see that it is a 3-star hotel — has there been some serious upgrading?
I hope other Invierno veterans will weigh in on this, but I think it’s a lovely walk. Along the river for a while, then through some nice small towns, some vineyards. Villavieja is just a beautiful little hamlet, and the walk up there and beyond to the castle is really nice, IMO. @Theatregal gave her impressions of the part from Villavieja to Borrenes (in post #8 above).I have been to Medulas twice and the drive from Ponferrrada did not look to exciting. Would I miss much if I skipped this stage?
Jenny, I thought it was beautiful, first a gentle ramble through the Bierzo countryside followed by the climb up to the castle. The latter — and then the view from there— was hard work but really wonderful walking with both landscape drama and some of the most beautiful Chestnut trees I've ever seen. The official Camino between Borrenes and Las Medulas was less interesting, but you could always do the alternative route that goes up through Orellan, which is much more scenic.Would I miss much if I skipped this stage?
Can anything be much more boring than Ponferrada to Cacabelos or Villa Franca del Bierzo?I have been to Medulas twice and the drive from Ponferrrada did not look to exciting. Would I miss much if I skipped this stage?
Yes, you are right! But the walk as far as Camponaraya, I would skip...which I don’t...but if there was one section I would...after Leon, It would be this section. We do the first 8km in the dark before the stores open and then eat breakfast In Camponaraya. After doing the route thru the wandering grape vines, right before one arrives in VdB, we now stick to NVI entering the town from the South...which is close to where we stay.I can think of quite a few stages on different caminos which are much more boring! There are some lovely stretches through the vineyards from Cacabelos to Villafrance del Bierzo.
Adding the link to this thread, which has links to a plethora of live from the camino accounts from 2019:So I am starting a day by day Virtual Invierno tour,
Thank You. Having all of these valuable sources will be helpful. I have only read one post so far..but it was quite interesting and helpful as well!Adding the link to this thread, which has links to a plethora of live from the camino accounts from 2019:
That is not an understatement. If anyone had asked me before the Invierno — “what is your favorite tree?” I probably would have answered with a blank stare. But when I walked on the Invierno that changed, I started to notice these amazing trees, with feathery white-ish spikes giving off a scent that I can‘t describe too well, but it’s sweet and tropical and pungent sort of. And then I started noticing how they grow and grow and grow, out of dead trunks, in an amazing affirmation of the cycle of life. In 2019, on the Olvidado, any time my nose caught the scent of those blossoms, I knew I was going to see more of these beauties.some of the most beautiful Chestnut trees I've ever seen.
Thanks to everyone for their input. I am now convinced and I will definitely not miss the first stage.I can think of quite a few stages on different caminos which are much more boring! There are some lovely stretches through the vineyards from Cacabelos to Villafrance del Bierzo.
Thank you for that VN walkingAdding the link to this thread, which has links to a plethora of live from the camino accounts from 2019:
Maybe it’s because that’s where we met.For some reason, and don't ask me why because I don't understand it myself but the Invierno has such a special place in my heart,
That's it Laurie, we certainly had a few good laughs there.That’s where
Maybe it’s because that’s where we met.
Welcome to the Invierno thread, @Becky 59. Those of us on the forum who have walked the Invierno are a pretty tight group, but we are always eager to proselytize for new converts. Hope you will feel free to post questions. Buen camino, LaurieI'm excited to see this thread starting; I am hoping to do the Frances + Invierno the next time I walk (I have done Sarria to Santiago, and don't need to repeat that crowded section, I'm thinking). I'm hoping to do shorter days of 15-20 km (although if I start at SJPP, by the time I get to the Invierno I may be able to handle longer days), so will watch your shorter-day posts with interest!
Ditto.For some reason, and don't ask me why because I don't understand it myself but the Invierno has such a special place in my heart
I've walked the Invierno many times on my own, and later with a friend and with my wife, but this camino does have something special that few other routes have. Nobody should feel hesitant about walking it alone, although I can fully understand some people wanting to be surrounded by dozens (or hundreds) of fellow pilgrims.Ditto.
For me, part of that is because for years I was so hesitant to walk it alone. It felt like many days of triumph, just being there. That it was so beautiful and full of history from beginning to end only adds to that special feeling.
This is precisely why I am interested in the Invierno, the VdlP, the Mozárabe, the Lana, the Levante... and in 2018 why we walked the Norte.
You won't be disappointed, AJ, but go soon before the numbers shoot up. A Brierley guide will likely cause more interest.This is precisely why I am interested in the Invierno, the VdlP, the Mozárabe, the Lana, the Levante... and in 2018 why we walked the Norte.
Yes, waterng holes are good!Day 2. Borrenes to Puente Domingo Flórez (15 km)
If you have spent the night in the albergue in Villavieja, it's close to 5 kilometres of mainly road walking and downhill until you get to Borrenes. A stop-off in the Hotel for a coffee or some breakfast would be a good idea.
From Borrenes, it's mainly uphill. Eventually, you cross the road (CV-191-2), and proceed parallel to it for a while before coming back to the road and heading up to Las Médulas.
It's an eerie landscape, once you see it, but - as Laurie has pointed out above - it's well worth a halt. There's an 'aula arqueólogica' just at the beginning of the small village, and at the end of the village you can sign up for guided tours of the area.
Las Médulas is a one-horse village, so don't be surprised if you find it a bit dead! At weekends, especially in summer, it can get packed out, but there ain't a great deal going on during the week.
Last year, in another post on here about the Invierno, there were a few 'differences of opinion' about places that were open in Las Médulas. I'll copy it later.
If you get the chance, the views from the mirador in Orellán are amazing. You can walk there from Las Médulas (just 2.2 kilometres), or go straight there from Borrenes, although it's a pretty steep climb, with quite a lot of road walking. Here's the view from the mirador:
View attachment 91592
After leaving Las Médulas, there's a slight uphill stretch* , followed by a never-ending downward path to Puente de Domingo Flórez (a couple of kilometres longer than the wayposts tell you, by the way!).
*At the top, there's a short detour to the left to the Mirador de Pedrices, with more spectacular views back over Las Médulas:
View attachment 91593
I'll post more about the 'watering-holes' that I know about in this short stage!
I believe the only option is HR La Torre, which I linked to above. It has a main hotel and an annex. It gets basically good reviews from trusted forum members, like Charrito and BP, but I have never stayed there. I typically stay in Médulas and have a coffee in Puente in the place Charrito recommends, which is off camino but very friendly.Can you tell me which place you might recommend in Puente de Domingo Florez to overnight in?
I think this is one of the posts (look at post 8 and 14) Charrito is referring to. In that thread, I have put the phone numbers of both Casa Socorro and the Agoga as well as assurances that they are open year round. The hotel at the entrance to the town is the one that seems to open and close. And of course it would be worth it to check on the post-covid situation.there were a few 'differences of opinion' about places that were open in Las Médulas. I'll copy it later.
As far as supermarkets are concerned, the biggest one is Día, very close to the hostal on Calle Chao do Marco. There are others (Coviran in Calle el Toral, and Claudio, close to Bar El Cruce).
Yes...Dia is generally my last choice of Supermarkets....Well, I think we just all need to have Charrito on speed dial so we can call with our questions as we arrive in any particular town.
Am I unusual, or are there others who avoid Día supermarkets except when there are no other options? I think it was Sara_Dhooma’s go-to place, but I just don’t like it. Covirán would be my choice.
Well CharriroI honestly don't see why numbers are going to go up just because some guy produces a guide.
gronze lists them both as hostals?? Which one did you stay in?Las Medulas to Puente de Domingo Flórez
Leaving Las Medulas, it’s very pleasant walk out of town. Turn back now and then for last views of Las Medulas!
View attachment 91623
At the top of the first rise, there is a junction with a sign pointing the way to the Mirador Pedrices. The camino points another direction and starts to descend. Beautiful vistas ahead as the quiet road winds it’s way down the mountain.
View attachment 91622
Keep a close eye for arrows and signs at the forks along the way. At some point along this road I took a wrong turn and I walked off camino. I didn’t realize it until about 4 km along, a small village with the sign “Yeres” appeared ahead. *Later, @VNwalking who was a week ahead of me, solved the mysterylooking at her wikiloc tracks, it seems I went left, rather than right at the first fork after the mirador. It was all good – through a wonderful interaction with some people in Yeres, a walk along a lovely quiet farm field and then via Las Vegas continuing on to a busier (bit scary) highway with beautiful views, I made it to Puente de Domingo Flórez 9 km later, entering the town from another direction.
View attachment 91625 View attachment 91624
I stayed at Hostal la Torre in the annex. A comfortable, quiet place to stay.
Hostal La Torre II | At the exit, on the way |
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Hostal La Torre I ** | At the exit, on the way |
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not to enter but to light a candle through the bars in front of the door. A pretty little church.
Hi, @Marbe2, they are actually one enterprise, a main building and an annex, but it looks like one has two stars and the other none. You know, over the years we have heard a lot about people paying different prices at this place, and this might explain some of the inconsistency. A two star place will usually cost more than a no-star place.gronze lists them both as hostals
Yes, I understood the two star, but I was a bit confused by another post indicating hostal ...not Hotel.....and then saw post Re the “annex” ..sent them an email inquiring about Hostal I. Good to know that it is all the one place. Thanks.But oh my, those look like REAL candles! It is really hard to find a church on a camino with anything but electric candles, and it is just not the same.
Hi, @Marbe2, they are actually one enterprise, a main building and an annex, but it looks like one has two stars and the other none. You know, over the years we have heard a lot about people paying different prices at this place, and this might explain some of the inconsistency. A two star place will usually cost more than a no-star place.
For some reason, and don't ask me why because I don't understand it myself but the Invierno has such a special place in my heart,
Let me be the third to say “me too.” I’ve now walked the Invierno three times, and I hope to return again. Not as many times as Charrito, I know, but there is something about it that keeps pulling me back. On my first Invierno, I remember walking through the tiny hamlet of Bendilló. An elderly woman sitting in a chair outside waved me over and we talked. She told me I was the first pilgrim she had ever seen and she gave me a big hug and kiss to take to the apostle. She was crying. It really touched me. There is just something about the natural beauty and the ancient-ness of this part of Galicia that gets to you. Maybe all the talk about witches in Galicia has something to it, but there is definitely a feeling of mystery and timelessness. I have to think that some of that magic will disappear if the crowds get too big, pilgrim menus appear all over the place, and the pilgrim becomes commonplace.For me, part of that is because for years I was so hesitant to walk it alone. It felt like many days of triumph, just being there. That it was so beautiful and full of history from beginning to end only adds to that special feeling.
I stayed in La Torre II, the annex, and booked on booking.com for 40 € in 2018, for a single room with breakfast. Menu del dia in the afternoon was good, room was ok, breakfast was like most other Spanish breakfast in a bar, killing or no use for diabeticos. Some noise from the bar at late evening. I would stay there again!gronze lists them both as hostals?? Which one did you stay in?
Bridge
Hostal La Torre II At the exit, on the way
- € 45
- € 56
Hostal La Torre I ** At the exit, on the way
- 26-34 €
- 35-45 €
This was the day when I lost some of what triggered me to walk the Invierno. Started out from Borrenes at 7 to have lots of time in Las Medulas. In the middle of the hill before town I saw a sign for a path to Orellan, to the left, 4 km. I should have walked there instead of following the camino marks. When I got to Las Medulas. too early in the morning, everything was closed and I did not know where to go. so I gave up and continued to S DdF.Day 2. Borrenes to Puente Domingo Flórez (15 km)
If you have spent the night in the albergue in Villavieja, it's close to 5 kilometres of mainly road walking and downhill until you get to Borrenes. A stop-off in the Hotel for a coffee or some breakfast would be a good idea.
From Borrenes, it's mainly uphill. Eventually, you cross the road (CV-191-2), and proceed parallel to it for a while before coming back to the road and heading up to Las Médulas.
It's an eerie landscape, once you see it, but - as Laurie has pointed out above - it's well worth a halt. There's an 'aula arqueólogica' just at the beginning of the small village, and at the end of the village you can sign up for guided tours of the area.
Las Médulas is a one-horse village, so don't be surprised if you find it a bit dead! At weekends, especially in summer, it can get packed out, but there ain't a great deal going on during the week.
Last year, in another post on here about the Invierno, there were a few 'differences of opinion' about places that were open in Las Médulas. I'll copy it later.
If you get the chance, the views from the mirador in Orellán are amazing. You can walk there from Las Médulas (just 2.2 kilometres), or go straight there from Borrenes, although it's a pretty steep climb, with quite a lot of road walking. Here's the view from the mirador:
View attachment 91592
After leaving Las Médulas, there's a slight uphill stretch* , followed by a never-ending downward path to Puente de Domingo Flórez (a couple of kilometres longer than the wayposts tell you, by the way!).
*At the top, there's a short detour to the left to the Mirador de Pedrices, with more spectacular views back over Las Médulas:
View attachment 91593
I'll post more about the 'watering-holes' that I know about in this short stage!
I did this and was so happy that I did.So I’ll make the case for walking 7 kms and then stopping in Las Médulas, taking off the pack and spending the day walking up to the spectacular mirador Orellán (through a chestnut forest from the town of Las Médulas), visiting the museum and the visitor’s center, and taking some of the trails through the base of the hills.
Basically, it's a gentle uphill through scrubby Forest that looked like it had been burned in the last decade or so.I haven’t walked this way from Borrenes recently, so I don’t have clear memories, maybe others can chime in.
I was there on a Tuesday and it was more than a bit dead — almost everything (including the hotel) was closed. So if you come through on a Tuesday, bring snacks! there is an open bar near the center of town but with very limited food.Las Médulas is a one-horse village, so don't be surprised if you find it a bit dead!
Yes, when I went through it was completely shut, and I thought it might have gone out of business.The hotel at the entrance to the town is the one that seems to open and close.
Absolutely do this late afternoon if you spend a day in Las Medulas. You will be going near there tomorrow, but the morning light is not as good for photographs.At the top, there's a short detour to the left to the Mirador de Pedrices, with more spectacular views back over Las Médulas:
When I got to Las Medulas everything was closed
I was there on a Tuesday and it was more than a bit dead — almost everything (including the hotel) was closed.
Sorry for butting in!VN, I’m sure you must have told us, but where did you stay?
I just want to make sure prospective Invierno folks know that the modern-ish hotel at the entrance to town is not the place most pilgrims stay anyway. Both the Agoga (where @Theatregal and I have stayed for a nice splurge-ish night) and the Casa Socorro (clean, basic pilgrim accommodations with a kitchen) are open every day, even in the winter. If you find restaurants closed and haven’t brought food, the Agoga has a restaurant and a bar, so full meals or snacks are possible.
And if the albergue ever opens, it looks like it will be very nice indeed.
Agoga‘s price (make sure you tell them you are a pilgrim) includes breakfast and they will leave it out for you if you leave early. It’s a very nice family run place. They do lots of tour bus lunches, so it gets a bit crazy, but the food is much better than your average tour bus place. And as @Theatregal says, it’s a very pleasant spot.
BTW, in terms of tourist attractions, it’s the usual “closed Mondays” for the internpretation center and the museum, and the walk-through tour of one of the galleries/tunnels is closed on Tuesday. @Theatregal reports closed on Sundays for the museum, but I wonder if it was Sunday afternoon, which is also a “normal Spanish closing time.” But visiting Médulas is mainly about the natural (or un-natural) environment, so day of week is less important.
Totally agree about the late afternoon views!
Ahem... we need the Invierno vets to give all the newbies our perspectives and our combined wisdom, so PLEASE “butt in!”Sorry for butting in!
On my first Invierno, I walked from Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Flórez on the first day! I had been to Las Médulas many times previously, so I didn't really fancy spending the night there. To be honest, it was hard work, but I did have a lovely break for lunch at O Camiño Real.Sorry for butting in!
We stayed in casa Socorro which was very nice...closed now I believe due to family illness
We arrived on a Tuesday and yes, everything was closed including the hotel and all the cafes and restaurants ...I think that Tuesday might be the villages "day off"
We made do with cold tapas from the bar which filled the gap!
The tourist office was open though
The new albergue looked very nice and the owner gave us a tour of the place ...he said that they were hoping to open later that year...had a nice garden too
The motto of the story......try not to arrive on a Tuesday!
I looked back on my notes and yes, it was unusual that the museum was closed the Sunday I was there. The woman at the info centre near Agoga said it was usually open on Sunday but not this Sunday.BTW, in terms of tourist attractions, it’s the usual “closed Mondays” for the internpretation center and the museum, and the walk-through tour of one of the galleries/tunnels is closed on Tuesday. @Theatregal reports closed on Sundays for the museum, but I wonder if it was Sunday afternoon, which is also a “normal Spanish closing time.”
Thanks, it's just that I wonder at times whether it's worthwhile making an effort to help.
I am not basing my information on just one trip. I know the whole area like the back of my hand, and have been to all of these places dozens of times (not always walking).
I have Movistar and it has probably the best reception of all. However, there are some stages on the Invierno where you will be some way from 'civilisation', and may have a problem or two.
Yes fun, and that's what I remember most about this Camino, as well of course as the beautiful scenery and the nature.but most of all the welcome we received from everyone we met during our time there.I am making the executive decision that we have had enough discussion of visiting Las Médulas. To summarize the high points
Accommodations
Hotel Medulio not recommended and may be closed anyway
Casa Socorro — most popular pilgrim place, rooms in a house with kitchen, 25€ for single, or thereabouts; no Tuesday closure, but currently closed because of family illness
Hotel Rural Agoga — very nice, restaurant with good menú del día, open all days, good breakfast, a bit pricey
Meals
As a tourist destination, there are lots of restaurants for the day trippers. For some reason, many/most close on Tuesdays. This can be confirmed by scrolling through TripAdvisor, where people give bad reviews to the Marife restaurant, noting that they had few choices because it was a Tuesday.
Tourist sites
The Aula Arqueológica is right at the entrance to town, near the Hotel Medulio. Good displays, very interesting. Hours here.
Visitor‘s center further along in town near the church. Hours here.
The gallery (tunnel) is closed on Tuesdays. Entrance and ticket office (there’s a very small fee) is next to the Mirador/viewing spot Orellán. Information and hours here.
But, as @Theatregal ’s experience shows, you just cannot be sure that even published hours will be adhered to. Many of these are small scale operations, and if the guy who is supposed to show up on Sunday is sick, the place will not open on Sunday. In Médulas, that’s less of a problem, because most of the beauty is outdoors. But you just have to be prepared.
If you see a mistake or have anything to add to this post, please send it to me in a PM.
So, tomorrow we will carry on, leaving Médulas behind. I really hope people can cool down and realize that everyone is describing their own personal experiences. No one is trying to deceive anyone or lie to anyone.
Most importantly, this is supposed to be FUN, not stressful and filled with sniping.
Buen camino, Laurie
Annette, I actually find joy, in your joy, of planning your next camino!Yes fun, and that's what I remember most about this Camino, as well of course as the beautiful scenery and the nature.but most of all the welcome we received from everyone we met during our time there.
Also thank you for starting this thread....as for me, it has awakened all the excitement of walking this, or another Camino again when the time is safe for everyone.I must admit that during this pandemic my "joie de vivre" in regards to anything "Camino" was beginning to wane but here I am getting excited again at reading the wonderful descriptions of those who walked before us!
Now with that in mind......
This morning I popped THE question...
Didn't even have to get down on one knee!
"So pet, would you fancy walking the Invierno again?
"Wouldn't mind, good idea"
Eureka!! Job done!!
So here I am with the folder...and the PDF out again and things are looking up!!
Hi Marbe2Annette, I actually find joy, in your joy, of planning your next camino!
I am an admitted planner. So, I find having a solid plan frees me to breathe in the beauty and enjoy the trail!
My biggest concern, so far is our ability to find the markers. I have read that the trail is well marked....but then have also read, in their personal accounts, how some pilgrims took the wrong trail. If we start in early morning in September, we would likely be leaving in the dark to avoid the heat. So prior study of the route is important to me. I have ordered Brierley’s guide to get his maps which were helpful on planning my first CF and CP. I do not do computer tracks.
@Marbe2,My biggest concern, so far is our ability to find the markers. I have read that the trail is well marked....but then have also read, in their personal accounts, how some pilgrims took the wrong trail.
Great! As I said, we will likely leave in the dark. Upon arrival,@Marbe2,
I know how that is a concern on these untravelled caminos, but I really think that if people don’t get distracted, there is no problem. The Xunta has put in tons and tons of markers, and I’ll let others see if they agree with my assessment.
I was just set to send this when I saw @Annette london ‘s post come in. I totally agree with her. I have a GPS, which I used on my last Camino (which was Olvidado plus Invierno) but I didn’t even bring the tracks for the Invierno. I don’t like feeling dependent on it, and I remembered that the marking was good from my previous invierno, but this time is was spectacular! Even maybe too much.
That is one TERRIBLY tough choice.I have delved into my spreadsheets and am refreshing my Invierno plan. I'd like to reach Santiago on my next Camino, so I have the Sanabres and the Invierno at the top of my list. It might depend on how much time I have, but I'll be prepared for either or both!
I learned that trick when I walked the Levante with two Frenchmen and it is a very good thing to do!Upon arrival,
we always check our way out of town, to our next destination in the light.
@Marbe2 I was one of those that took the wrong trail (out of Medulas) but it was because of my own inattention! The fork was well marked as I found out later - I think I was just in dreamland, wandering along, very happy with the beautiful morning.My biggest concern, so far is our ability to find the markers. I have read that the trail is well marked....but then have also read, in their personal accounts, how some pilgrims took the wrong trail.
Theatregal, it is easy to do. We took a wrong turn on our last CF...which I had done 7 times....@Marbe2 I was one of those that took the wrong trail (out of Medulas) but it was because of my own inattention! The fork was well marked as I found out later - I think I was just in dreamland, wandering along, very happy with the beautiful morning.
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