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This was very helpful, Theatregal!Puente de Domingo Flórez to O Barco de Valdeorra
It’s a very easy direct way out of town leaving Hostel La Torre, crossing a bridge over the Rio Sil and entering Galica. In my research, there had been reports of an aggressive dog on a long chain near the railway tracks at the suburb of Quereño. I saw him but he was sleeping and didn’t stir as I passed by.
The camino continues under a railway tunnel which leaves no doubt that this is the way. This one obviously marked for me, given my inattention leaving Las Medulas the day before. A metal waymark attached to the rock with two painted arrows below and three more through the tunnel.
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The way ascends above the railway and continues along a forest path. Beautiful views of the Sil emerge and the first of several rest / picnic areas. All along the route on this day, there were places to stop, sit and enjoy the view.
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Continuing past pretty gardens into the village of Pumares. There is a little square here – no bar but there was a fountain with a potable water sign.
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The path continues high along the ridge with the river and railroad below. Peaceful and quiet...except for the few noisy slate manufacturing yards along the way.
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Arriving at the site of the abandoned village of Nogueiras, there is a slate path leading off and up to the right. Through the ruins of a house on the left and a stone wall on the right was a sign “Bienvenido A Tu Casa” In an inner courtyard someone has created a shrine to the Virgin Mary. There are benches made of slate. A nice place for a rest.
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Continuing along the path soon brought views ahead of Sobradelo.
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I stopped for a break at the welcoming Bar Mar. A wonderful place to stop for coffee and a snack. The young woman at the bar told me to sit and rest on the covered terrace and asked what I’d like to drink. She brought my coffee and a stamp for my credential as well as a fruit tart that she said was on the house. As I was leaving she asked if she could take my photo against the Bar Mar sign. She said they liked to keep a record of the pilgrims that stop at the bar.
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Leaving Sobradelo on the main road, following the well marked turns and then onto the descending road into Éntoma. First views emerge of the terraced vineyards high on the slopes above the town. Crossing a medieval bridge over the Rio Galir, will bring you to the Bar Martillo. I didn’t stop, continuing on to a forested path climbing up over Èntoma and through the terraced vineyards seen on the approach to the village.
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The path descends, crossing a main road, eventually arriving at the outskirts of O Barco de Valdeorras.
It took awhile to get into the city from the outskirts and then to find my accommodation. I was staying at the Hostal Mayo (25 euro) which was on the opposite end of town but very close to the river and convenient to get back on the camino the next morning. I enjoyed the evening here walking along the lovely river path, alive with cafes and the social life of the town.
I know that @peregrina2000 has commented in the past about how confusing the names of various Galician hamlets and towns can be. I went looking for Nogueiras on google maps/earth, but couldn't find it on the Invierno. However, I did find this view of some ruins about 1.5 km after Pumares, that must be the abandoned village you mention. Any idea of when it last had residents?the abandoned village of Nogueiras
Wonderful, we can always count on @Theatregal for beautiful descriptions. I always find that your words trigger memories for me, so thank you!
Your mention of Éntoma reminded me that it was there, as I walked through the village, that an elderly resident came and gave me specific directions on how to find an abandoned cherry orchard, where it was perfectly legal to pick cherries. Oh, the cherries! On this camino, I have eaten dark red, light red, yellow, and yellow blushing with red and I would be hard pressed to pick a favorite!
I remember you saying earlier that the chained up dog had gone silent — maybe he finally got tired of abusing his vocal chords. I should point out that even during the times when he was more aggressive, his chain is very sturdy and he cannot reach the path where you’re walking. I mentioned it only because I know that the first time I went by, I was so rattled by the barking that I missed the arrow. But there has never been any danger.
That lovely little shrine in the hamlet of Nogueiras was made by some local women. I coincided with some who were out for their morning walk from Sobradelo to the shrine and back. You are likely to see many town walkers out doing the same on this stretch, and they are generally cheeful and happy to see you!
Dog Abuse is cruel. ... but I do understand your point. Here in USA there are ferocious guard dogs too. And there are working dogs. But I would hope there is a handler, that takes good care of them. That they are taken inside when the weather is severe, etc. Given affection. I would say the same to any culture that abuses dogs...In Spain, almost everywhere I've been and observed, dogs are working animals whether guarding a factory, a yard, a vegetable plot or a vacant weekend home. I've witnessed plenty of cruelty and neglect (sometimes it's obvious the animal has been left for days) and I don't like that they are almost always chained, but I do feel safer for it personally, even if mostly they just bark out of boredom, for a little attention. Where I Iive, we regard dogs overwhelmingly as pets, even 'working' dogs, so I guess there is a cultural aspect to it and I have to accept it at that.
I enjoyed the early morning descent from As Medulas to Puente de Domingo Flores. Wonderful views. I went in April and the wild flowers were also beautiful.
O Barco is one of my favorite towns in Spain. It has only 10,000 people, but punches far above its weight for charm, scenery, food and wine. Since walking I have taken my wife and Brazilian friends back with me. The Malecon (walk along the river) is a great, busy outdoor walk, with pretty views, full of bars and people. Especially in summer it is a pleasure to walk up and down enjoying the all-ages crowd or to sit late into the evening having bar food and wine. If you don't fill up with bar food, the Restaurante Piquino, which borders it, has a dining room behind the bar with genuinely excellent food. The Asador Viloira, across the first pedestrian bridge, is not as good, but would feel like a find in most small towns on any Camino.
Even going to Mass was a treat. The church is 60s modern and its interior is not handsome. But the acoustics were good and – rare for a Catholic Church along the Camino – there were lots of people under thirty in attendance.
Hostal Mayo, a slightly dated 3* hotel in the center by Pension do Lar, and Hotel Malecon, a little more recently refreshed and very clean, hard by the Malecon. Unfortunately the owner of the Malecon goes away during the siesta, so if you trudge into town during siesta you have to camp out on the Malecon or in a bar. At time I would have loved to get straight into hot shower.Good infl,
Where did you stay? Great info...thanks.
Yes, when I was resting in shrine at Nogueiras, two people (at separate times), one of them a jogger, came in for a quick prayer. It was nice to see something created that brought activity to this abandoned place.That lovely little shrine in the hamlet of Nogueiras was made by some local women. I coincided with some who were out for their morning walk from Sobradelo to the shrine and back. You are likely to see many town walkers out doing the same on this stretch, and they are generally cheeful and happy to see you!
I've tried to find information about Nogueiras online but no luck. Looks like it was definitely a stop on the rail line at some point. In addition to the shrine activity, there are bee boxes along the ruins of stone walls on the hills. Some other photos of the site.I know that @peregrina2000 has commented in the past about how confusing the names of various Galician hamlets and towns can be. I went looking for Nogueiras on google maps/earth, but couldn't find it on the Invierno. However, I did find this view of some ruins about 1.5 km after Pumares, that must be the abandoned village you mention. Any idea of when it last had residents?
Have no fear, @Marbe2. As others have said, the waymarking is excellent. The only two places I ran into trouble were where the marker was overgrown by grass. One of these was leaving O Barco, and when we come to that part I will post a picture.My biggest concern, so far is our ability to find the markers. I have read that the trail is well marked
Sorry, Laurie, just re-posting the following paragraph here, for anyone who's a bit adventurous. If you stay in Orellan, it's completely possible to continue directly to Puente de Domingo Flores without stopping in Las Medulas, going across the top of the ancient mine without dropping down into the town. Those of us who might be walking the Invierno a second (or third or fourth!) time might be particularly interested in this option.I am making the executive decision that we have had enough discussion of visiting Las Médulas.
This is certainly true in the morning when most people see it, but in late afternoon or evening it must be spectacular. I first learned about Las Medulas from a stunning poster of this morning view that is in the albergue at La Faba.Mirador Pedrices, which is about .5 km off-camino. If you’ve seen it from Orellán, this is a poor second.
Ah that explains the feeling of being embraced there. It's both sweet and poignant.That lovely little shrine in the hamlet of Nogueiras was made by some local women.
Next. Time.an elderly resident came and gave me specific directions on how to find an abandoned cherry orchard, where it was perfectly legal to pick cherries. Oh, the cherries! On this camino, I have eaten dark red, light red, yellow, and yellow blushing with red and I would be hard pressed to pick a favorite!
Thank you, VN...The pictures and narrative you and Theatregal provided are very helpful. Photos are terrific! I appreciate the time and effort it took to post this treasure-trove.Aiyiyi!
Catch up on my sleep, and see what I get: you guys are already in O Barco!
Have no fear, @Marbe2. As others have said, the waymarking is excellent. The only two places I ran into trouble were where the marker was overgrown by grass. One of these was leaving O Barco, and when we come to that part I will post a picture.
Sorry, Laurie, just re-posting the following paragraph here, for anyone who's a bit adventurous. If you stay in Orellan, it's completely possible to continue directly to Puente de Domingo Flores without stopping in Las Medulas, going across the top of the ancient mine without dropping down into the town. Those of us who might be walking the Invierno a second (or third or fourth!) time might be particularly interested in this option.
My OSMand map tells me there're two CRs in Orellan. So you could get up to the Mirador and galleries early in the morning and then continue on to the Mirador de Pedrices, from there intersecting the Camino where it continues to PdDF. Here's a map with the 2 miradors as the two intermediate points, and the intersection of the Camino as the endpoint. It would certainly save you the knee busting descent into town, which in places is quite steep.
This is certainly true in the morning when most people see it, but in late afternoon or evening it must be spectacular. I first learned about Las Medulas from a stunning poster of this morning view that is in the albergue at La Faba.
Ah that explains the feeling of being embraced there. It's both sweet and poignant.
Next. Time.
I loved this stage, descending into the river valley, and experiencing the distinct change of landscape. It's one of those Camino days when you start in one universe and end up in another.
I got to PdDF a bit too early for any bars to be open, but the Dia (on the corner as you head to the bridge across the Rio Sil) was perfectly adequate for yogurt, bread, cheese, and fruit. Only one word to the wise: don't miss the best picnic bench in the world, which after PdDF overlooking part of the river that has been dammed. I stopped to enjoy my second breakfast about 50 meters before this, sitting on an uncomfortable stone with no view. It was pleasant enough, but then I came around the corner afterwards and saw this:
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The way along the river to Sobradelo was lovely, past Nogueiras and through Pumares. For the most part it follows the river and the rail line, but was very quiet.
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I did stay in the place at Sobradelo, and found it a bit grubby and off-putting. They were doing some serious renovation, so that might have been part of the problem. Hopefully it has improved. But breakfast was just perfect!
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Entoma was very sweet, and check out the cork oaks between there and O Barco:
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I had the same experience in O Barco as in PdDF of being a little too early for much to be happening. So it was very pleasant, but super quiet. Just walking through this town along the river, I didn't get much of a sense of it; it sounds like a wonderful place to stay.
A beautiful walk of about 26 km but we sauntered as opposed to walking due to the heat ..34 degrees or so
Cherries..oh those cherries,and for one reason or another I will never forget those cherries
Now, cherries being my favourite fruit, I was indeed in "cherry heaven" ..big ones, small ones, wild ones...all went down the hatch....stones as well ....pure unadulterated greed really.
When we walk the Invierno again though....it will be at the same time as before when the cherry trees are in full bloom
We had coffee in the lovely little village of Entoma but the Camino was closed due to roadworks Near the path so had to take the main road into O Barco ...probably 3-4 km shorter but not as scenic as the dirt track
Stayed at Le Gran Tortuga...a bit run down but the welcome from the owner made up for this
She cooked a meal for us at 7pm and the breakfast was one of the best we've ever had on any Camino
I THINk I've read somewhere that the Tortuga is closed but can't be sure of this
Canadian Sara Dhooma did a video series on her walk on the Invierno a few years back, to be found here- https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkWTKtiUr2peE_7XRTAgtrx1gVyK72jwTThanks to @Marbe for the interest in the Invierno.
A few years ago, I posted some shorter stages options for the Invierno. Since that time, facilities have increased and there are more options. So I am starting a day by day Virtual Invierno tour, following the examples of my good buddies’ @AJGuillaume and @VNwalking, who have done this for the Viejo, the Mozárabe, and currently the Lana.
So, here is what I suggest. Let’s talk about it one stage at a time. I will post the stage, give a couple of days for input (both questions and suggestions) and then move on to the next. At the end we should have a pretty good document to complement our Forum Resources guide. John Brierley has an Invierno guide now, which is available in the forum store. I think our forum guide is all you need, but the fact that Brierley has one is a clear indication of which way he thinks the winds are blowing!
The way we have done the Lana planning is a good guide for us, I think. We just completed Part I (Alicante to Cuenca). It had about 450 posts, and I went back and edited out all the banter so that the end product would be more helpful as a planning tool. We wound up with about 250 posts in the Part I document. So, let’s continue with that here, because the side chatter makes it feel more like a real conversation. At the end, I will go back and “clean it up.”
The unknown, of course, is how covid will ultimately impact the infrastructure, but we will just have to use our best judgment.
I will be back in a few minutes to get this started.
Buen camino, Laurie
And I thought I was the only one.Cherries..oh those cherries,and for one reason or another I will never forget those cherries
Now, cherries being my favourite fruit, I was indeed in "cherry heaven" ..big ones, small ones, wild ones...all went down the hatch....stones as well ....pure unadulterated greed really.
Thanks Rod!Canadian Sara Dhooma did a video series on her walk on the Invierno a few years back, to be found here- https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkWTKtiUr2peE_7XRTAgtrx1gVyK72jwT
Quick answer, which is just my opinion. You should plan to stay in A Rúa, whether you have slept the night before in Sobradelo or O Barco. From A Rúa, we will talk about several alternatives, some involving a train ride but allowing you to walk every step.Now I have a question.You have all persuaded me to stop at Las Medulas, since I will have walked there from Villavieja and I want to see the amazing landscape there. So the next day, in order to keep the distance down, I could stop in Sobradelo, although O Barco sounds like a much better place to spend the night. If I do stop in Sobradelo, the next day would take me to A Rua, which looks like about 20km.
So here’s the question, although I suppose it’s really a question for tomorrow. Would I then be sentencing myself to an even longer day over more difficult terrain than that between Las Medulas and O Barco, due to lack of accommodation after A Rua?
Thank you for the beautiful photos. I can hardly wait to get there!
Would I then be sentencing myself to an even longer day over more difficult terrain than that between Las Medulas and O Barco, due to lack of accommodation after A Rua?
Agree, Laurie.Quick answer, which is just my opinion.
I actually did, but I'm a sucker for a good pig statue.And since you’re not a meat eater, VN, you probably don’t know that Lalín‘s love affair with the pig has to do with its fame as a place for eating cocido.
I did short days and stayed in Borrenes, PddFlorez, o Barco and A Rua, where I stayed two nights and did the bit of next stage from ARua to Montefurado with a train back to my bed in Hostal Niza in A Rua. The route from O Barco to A Rua is flat and easy go, the next to Quiroga is more climbing, but more managing to me since I had walked to Montefurado the day before. There was a train in the morning.Now I have a question.You have all persuaded me to stop at Las Medulas, since I will have walked there from Villavieja and I want to see the amazing landscape there. So the next day, in order to keep the distance down, I could stop in Sobradelo, although O Barco sounds like a much better place to spend the night. If I do stop in Sobradelo, the next day would take me to A Rua, which looks like about 20km.
So here’s the question, although I suppose it’s really a question for tomorrow. Would I then be sentencing myself to an even longer day over more difficult terrain than that between Las Medulas and O Barco, due to lack of accommodation after A Rua?
Thank you for the beautiful photos. I can hardly wait to get there!
I did short days and stayed in Borrenes, PddFlorez, o Barco and A Rua, where I stayed two nights and did the bit of next stage from ARua to Montefurado with a train back to my bed in Hostal Niza in A Rua.
Glad you posted this, because it spurred me to send them a WhatsApp to ask. Their response is that their pensión is open, as is the bar, but because of COVID they will only serve food to those who sleep in the pensión. They respond quickly via WhatsApp, so that’s how I would suggest contacting them for reservations. As Annette said, simple but clean and copious breakfast with a fair amount of fruit if I remember correctly.I THINk I've read somewhere that the Tortuga is closed but can't be sure of this
Thanks for that idea. I think that maybe the most helpful part of this thread is that those who want to plan an Invierno get to see such a variety of stages, like the one @ranthr just posted. Thanks to everyone for posting their own individual permutations. There are so many different ways to walk this route, and I hope that all these different suggestions give the planners confidence that there are plenty of options if Plan A fails and you have to go to Plan B.
I walked there in the afternoon, having walked from O Barco earlier in the day. This was end of May, a bit hot. but since I had left my big backpack in my room, it was ok. Had to wait for the train for an hour.I was waiting to discuss the route from A Rua to Quiroga when we get to that section. i saw the suggestion of using the train back to ARua from Montefurado on the 2019 guide but the return train schedule would not likely work for us in Sept. I think returning to A Rua appears to be only in the evening. Walking there in the afternoon might be too hot. I would want to explore option of staying in Soldon if anyone has done this? What were the apartments like? But, I wonder if it would be better to wait for a reply so that this info appears in that section?
Hi, Marbe,@peregrina2000 mentioned she stayed at Pillban in A Rua. Does anyone else have recommendations there, or pictures on f the place they stayed in?
Amen to both of these. Me too. If I can, anyone can. I was more spooked by having pathetic language skills than many other things, but it was no problem.If I can do it alone (2018) with just the Forum guide, then anyone can... and the guide is terrific.
Here's the promised photo:The first, as VN mentioned, is that the mojón that takes you off the river walk may be obscured by growth. It is immediately after the sanitary sewer plant, though, which is hard to miss, so keep your eyes out.
Pension Niza here. Right in town and quite adequate, but no pictures, sorry. Here's what I wrote at the time about this stage:Does anyone else have recommendations there, or pictures on f the place they stayed in?
The first part of the day was a treat, going up out of Sobradelo, with a view back to the beautiful bridge, and then on to the slightly quirky village of Entoma. They were gussying the place up, putting down pavers on the camino route, and there were pieces of camino art here and there. (Funny, how pretty comes before albergues, but that is another story.) The town had a lovely feel to it.
Once out of Sobradelo, the valley widens more and more, and vines appear. The nicest part of the day was right after Entoma, as the path goes up and behind some vineyards and along a dirt road lined with pine and oaks. Wow! They were cork oaks - mostly teenagers, but one was quite big - with scars from recent bark harvesting.
Eventually the way rejoined the road, and never left it for long after that all the way to A Rua, with the exception of the riverfront esplanades in A Barco and Vilamartin. Sometimes the way was sandwiched between the rail line and the autovia, a bit like the early stages of the Vasco. So the section after Vilamartin felt like such a relief, since the autovia was behind thick shrubbery, and only the rail line was nearby. While walking the long straight stretch there, I was wishing a train would come by and hey presto, one did - a gratifyingly long freight train going towards Ponferrada. The driver blew the horn, I waved and grinned back, and we went our separate ways.
Soon after that, the way came to the dam and hydro plant, and that was where I had a classic camino 'right place, right time' experience. A car came across the bridge, and stopped at the intersection just as I got there. It was an official Ayutamiento car, and the driver leaned across the passenger seat to ask if I wanted a sello! Well, of course! I managed to navigate the basic questions - where had I walked from today, where did I start, where was I from, where was I wslking today, and are there any problems on the Invierno? To that I just gave two big thumbs-up - Vilamartin has an albergue after all, so there was no need to ask. But I did wish that I had better Spanish so that I could have given longer and more detailed feedback. I mean, how often does a government official actually care what I think?! He and the cheerful train driver made my day.
Going up on the road and around to A Rua after that was 'interesting,' since there was no shoulder and a drop-off to the rail lines, with the cars zooming past coming out of A Rua. Mercifully, it was short.
And then, A Rua, which starts suddenly as you come aroud the corner. There is no Asun and her albergue anymore, and the town was going into siesta mode. No visitor information, no nada. I went down to the Pension Niza to find the door locked, but luck again - just as I sat on a bench nearby a dignified señor opened the door. The place is run by an elderly couple who both speak very good French, Antonio and Lorraina. 25€ gets me an enormous double bed in a room with an attached bath. And a long talk with her. They are both so friendly and kind, with old-school manners.
So after a delicious lunch at Bar Pepa, all I have to do is wait out the rain, and pray it passes quickly. The owners here said Marisqueria Peyma is the fantastic place to eat, but it's a seafood place, so I can't speak from experience. But check it out, you who are behind me!
It's impossible to improve on the photos taken by VN and peregrina 2000@peregrina2000 mentioned she stayed at Pillban in A Rua. Does anyone else have recommendations there, or pictures on f the place they stayed in?
In his new guide, John Brierley describes a route from O Barco along the other side of the river (Option B Camino Natura) that sounds quite nice. If that route was taken, the main route would be rejoined by crossing the suspension footbridge above at Penouta.
I bought the Brierley guide a couple of months ago and have barely flicked through it yet, as I don't usually torment myself with planning too far ahead. But I have used his guides in the past and I do like his simple format and his maps/profiles are clear. Folks seem to love/hate his books in equal measure!!Oh, great, access to a Brierley Invierno guide! I have never used a Brierley guide, and just looking at the text you showed, it’s a bit disjointed,IMO. But I digress. That alternative takes you to a very nice looking Pazo, but then you would miss the Barco sanitary plant.
Does the Brierley guide typically include nice little detours like this?
I have, I think, discovered that the Brierley Invierno guide is selling 8 copies a month on Amazon. Not exactly enough to produce a crowd, but I wonder if places like Ivar’s store are better sales spots for him.
@peregrina2000VN,
Well, I can’t find that church. It’s definitely not the one in the attached map. (picture on left of google maps shot). You can see its relationship to the Fátima church on the map, which is the one next to Pillabán.
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And it’s not the San Roque.
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And the only other ones I see are back by the dam, and that’s way too far out, I think. (no one has photographed them, though, so I can’t compare).
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So my question is where is that church and what is its name? I see how coming into town from the top, close to the N-120, would bring you through small vineyards, but I just can’t find that church and its Roman tablet.
We are planning to walk the Invierno this coming fall, if possible pandemic-wise. We are planning this same stage -- Molinasca to Villavieja. It looks to be about 26.5 km which is slightly longer than our perferred limit of 25 km, but still doable for us. Then we plan to walk only as far as Las Medulas -- this should give us plenty of time to rest from our two long stages (Rabanal to Molinaseca and Molinaseca to Villavieja) and also to visit the castle and the mines at Las Medulas.Thank you! I do plan on staying in Villavieja, walking there from Molinaseca. Great to know the scary dog is gone.
We are planning to walk the Invierno this coming fall, if possible pandemic-wise. We are planning this same stage -- Molinasca to Villavieja. It looks to be about 26.5 km which is slightly longer than our perferred limit of 25 km, but still doable for us. Then we plan to walk only as far as Las Medulas -- this should give us plenty of time to rest from our two long stages (Rabanal to Molinaseca and Molinaseca to Villavieja) and also to visit the castle and the mines at Las Medulas.
This made me laugh and brought back a fun little camino memory. On our very first camino we met a lovely young woman from South Africa the first day. We all stayed in Roncesvalles and woke up with the singing the following morning. It was early April and still quite drack outside. Our South African friend left ahead of us and returned about five minutes later. I joked "that was a quick trip" and she responded "I don't know which way to go!"I learned that trick when I walked the Levante with two Frenchmen and it is a very good thing to do!
The orange route in this map in the Brierley guide is the one some locals told me was the new route out of O Barco. At the end of Paseo Malecon there was a small blue or green brigde over a little stream, but you will still have the river on your left .The descriptions above have quite confused me. I cannot locate the sanitary plant, the overgrown mojon, or the key right turn that takes you off the river walk. I'm sure I could, eventually, figure it out, but can someone help here?
However, I happen to be a fan of Brierley's guides and have his new one in front of me now. With it, I think I have sorted out the options:.
That's why I like his maps.
- His "grey" route which seems to be the one most common on Wikilocs. He includes an option to go up to the albergue in Xagoaza.
- His "orange" normal route, which might be the @Theatregal is describing as going to the river and walking out of town.
- His "green" route on the other side of the river, which comes back to the north side of the river just before Villamartin.
I agree. The 2019 guide on-line here is an excellent source...with lots of detail that Brierley does’t provide. This posting is also an excellent source with lots of great tips, wonderful photos, and housing recommendations! I do like the clarity of Brierley’s maps and graphs. When I first do a route, using both sides of of paper, I copy the Maps and graphs. Therefore, 24 sections is 12 sheets. When I finish the two stages I throw that sheet away. We split the weight so I carry six pages. In addition, I photograph the pages and Gronze’s info so I do not need internet to access the information. This time I will condense all of the information from this thread and the 2019 guide and will add that as well.I bought the Brierley guide a couple of months ago and have barely flicked through it yet, as I don't usually torment myself with planning too far ahead. But I have used his guides in the past and I do like his simple format and his maps/profiles are clear. Folks seem to love/hate his books in equal measure!!
That said, this thread is another great resource, and is bringing the route alive in a way I don't believe guide books can!!
Hi Marbe,John Brierley’s new book arrived this morning via Amazon. The book actually has two caminos - The Sanabres and the Invierno.
@Annette london Brierley calculates that with ascents, the OBarco....to A Rua route is 16.1 km, 570 meter climb, adjusting, as he does for height....so that may be why it felt longer. His O Barco map would have been helpful...at least it will be for me.
Brierley lists the section from A Rua to Quiroga at 28.4km but with altitude adjustment at 35.8km with an ascent of 1,480 meters! We will definitely have to split the day in two! After hearing comment from @ranthr re her reaction to staying in Soldon, we will approach the day, as if we were starting in SJPdP, and stop in Montefurado, then return to A Rua or actually walk a bit further and arrange for a taxi both ways...it would be worth it.
@VNwalking Thanks for the pictures I see why you had trouble getting out of OBarco.....
@Theatregal I see the alternative path on Brierley’s nature way... looks like a good option!
@perergrina2000 Probably would be cooler to stay closer to the water.... but must be clean above all! Still hoping for a recommendation in A Rua in a place that might have some shade around it...I know there won’t be AC so in case it is hot we might find some relief.
..if anyone has pictues...please post them..would be much appreciated.
Thank you for all your help... it is coming together!
I remember quite vividly the Roman plaque on the wall next to a church in A Rua. It seems to me that the church was located only a short distance uphill from the main street, Rua San Roque. The only church that I can see in that location on Google Maps is Santo Estevo.
Got it at 8 am but I'm sure that it could be arranged for whatever time you'd like
Ha, good oneThis made me laugh and brought back a fun little camino memory. On our very first camino we met a lovely young woman from South Africa the first day. We all stayed in Roncesvalles and woke up with the singing the following morning. It was early April and still quite drack outside. Our South African friend left ahead of us and returned about five minutes later. I joked "that was a quick trip" and she responded "I don't know which way to go!"
Annette,Ha, good one
well a few years ,we went one better..or worse depending on ones way of looking at it! Even had a map of Burgos with the Camino marked on it
Coming out of a Pension in Burgos we turned right...this is definitely the way!!
5km later we noticed the round sculpture that we'd passed the day before!
Laugh or cry, a bit of both.had to get a bus back into the centre
No, and I would never have considered it—it's a busy road, with lots of trucks. For all the small ups and downs of this stage, it's one of the most beautiful of the whole journey. Not to be missed!As an alternative, has anyone just walked from ARua to Quiroga using N 120.
No, and I would never have considered it—it's a busy road, with lots of trucks. For all the small ups and downs of this stage, it's one of the most beautiful of the whole journey. Not to be
Strictly speaking, it has 1.8 Caminos, since the last 20% of the Invierno is the same as the Sanabres.The book actually has two caminos - The Sanabres and the Invierno.
Hi MarbeARua to Quioga route question?
As an alternative, has anyone just walked from ARua to Quiroga using N 120. Looking at Gronze’s map linked to the towns...the elevation near N 120 appears to a relatively low stable 300 -350 meters much of the way? It looks like a small
valley running through a small mountaineous area. Am I wrong? This would likely have been the original route of pilgrims - Taking flatter land and near the river for water? if we follow N120 there may not be as much a need to do so much climbing that day? There also appears to be at least one or two places to stop along the road for refreshments. Please correct me if I am wrong about any of this. This might work out well for those of us early morning risers.
According to google maps circa 16km from A Rua there is a restaurant, Restaurante Pazo do Sil, opens at 8am (closed Mondays). Then there appears, at Soldon, about 2km further to be some kind of a stand right on 120N, called Chiringuito Soldon, which appears to be more of a seasonal place...looks like you maybe can take a dip in the water there. (18km from A Rua.). From there its 7km on 120N into Quiroga according to Google maps.
Regarding the Brierley guide - "Camino Sanabres and Camino Invierno" - let's be more precise!Strictly speaking, it has 1.8 Caminos, since the last 20% of the Invierno is the same as the Sanabres.
Pedant, me? No. I just believe in truth in advertising.
Regarding the Brierley guide - "Camino Sanabres and Camino Invierno" - let's be more precise!
The guide covers the portion of the Sanabres only from Ourense. If you take out the part that duplicates the Invierno, calculate against the full Sanabres from Granja de Moreruela, and consider that 1 Camino = 1 Camino, no matter how long it is, the guide covers only about 1.16 Caminos.
Nevertheless, I am very impressed with how effective his maps are, for me, especially after doing several virtual caminos this past year without such a guide. Doing this research on a thread such as this is more fun while we are in isolation, and the additional insights and impressions are very interesting, but I'll be carrying my Brierley (minus some unnecessary section) when I walk. I just like it!
Thank you for this thread. I have tried to plan 20-25 km a few times and thought that if we couldn't walk short days there are in places the opportunity to stay more than a night and walk in the AM, and take a train back to the start and return the next AM. It has been awhile since I looked since we really cannot walk but I will now look again.Day 1. Ponferrada to Borrenes (23 km)
No need to introduce people to Ponferrada, the starting point. Lots to enjoy there, so maybe a rest day is in the cards before starting!
The first day has a fairly hefty ascent, up to the Castle of Cornatel, then down to Borrenes.
If you want to shorten the first day more, there is also a public albergue in Villavieja, about 16 km from Ponferrada. Villavieja is a charming little village (with no services), a bit below the castle. It is where the serfs and other castle support lived. The albergue had very spotty and sometimes shoddy service, but the license has recently been awarded to a new person and she gets very good reviews.
If you continue on to Borrenes, you will pass the castle and then have an on-the-road (not heavily traveled road) walk down to Borrenes. There used to be an off-road option, but the motocross people ruined it. In Borrenes, Marisol has accommodation for pilgrims. I’m not sure it is a full-blown albergue yet, but there are places to sleep.
The only debate I can remember over this part has to do with whether it’s worth it to visit the Castle of Cornatel. I have visited it once, but did not return on subsequent visits, mainly because of timing. You can climb around a bit, and there are some nice views, but it isn’t a full blown castle renovation liked Zamora or any of the many castles you guys have probably visited on different caminos.
The other point where people have had very different experiences has to do with bars. There is a good availability along the entire route, but opening times are typically later in the morning than you may see on other caminos. So if you leave early, you are going to find fewer options. In my several Inviernos, I have only found one bar open in between Ponferrada and Borrenes, but I leave early.
Hoping that others will now chime in with suggestions, questions, comments!
Buen camino, Laurie
Sounds like I need to order Brierley's guide for the maps.Nevertheless, I am very impressed with how effective his maps are, for me, especially after doing several virtual caminos this past year without such a guide. Doing this research on a thread such as this is more fun while we are in isolation, and the additional insights and impressions are very interesting, but I'll be carrying my Brierley (minus some unnecessary sections) when I walk. I just like it!
Even though I participate in these planning threads, and keep a careful spreadsheet of the towns and distances, I don't actually look at all the photos that are posted, I don't take detailed notes with me, and I certainly don't remember all the detail! I have a few landmarks noted on the spreadsheet, but once I start walking, I am usually too tired on a daily basis and too busy putting one foot in front of the other, to refer back to detailed notes. Furthermore, I don't even remember in detail about where I've been! I'm not sure whether this is mindfulness, or the opposite (mindlessness?)!I don't like knowing too much about a camino before I walk it!
Yo soy el 'forum member'. De nada.Updated train and bus info from a forum member.
I will edit the earlier post to correct it.
Train from Montefurado back to A Rúa: 18.24 from Montefurado, 18.33 into A Rúa.
Train from A Rúa to Montefurado: 07.09 from A Rúa, 07.18 into Montefurado
Bus from A Rúa to Montefurado: 08.10 from A Rúa, 08.20 into Montefurado*
*This bus invariably turns up late. It turned up in A Rúa at 08.45 the last time I caught it.
The railway station and bus station are right next to each other, just a few yards down the pedestrianised street from Hostal Niza.
And protection from the pouring rain, too!The huge pylons that support the highway overhead don’t add to the charm, but they did give shade on a hot sunny day.
I loved the remnants of very old cart tracks we follow a couple of places today: leaving Montefurado, and after the castle are the two spots that come to mind. You can see the grooves in the rock from the passage of thousands of cart wheels.but the walk from there has some really pretty parts through green woods and bubbling brooks.
If you intend to walk the entire distance to Monforte a the next day, this is a great idea because it takes two kilometers off the distance. I stopped in Barxa do Lor at Pension Pacita (highly recommended!), so I wasn't tempted. Plus I wanted to eat at Aroza since it was so highly recommended. The latter was disappointing — for vegetarians it was absolutely nothing special.I walked 2 kms further on to San Clodio
From:Once one of the most prolific Spanish olive oil producing regions, catastrophe struck in the late fifteenth century when the Crown ordered the felling of practically all the trees in the Valley of Quiroga in the province of Lugo. This was intended as a right royal slap in the face for the local feudal lords who had committed the heinously treasonous act of backing the wrong horse during the dynastic wars of the period. Thankfully, a few of these olive bearing beauties survived in the more remote parts of the valley, thus providing the seed for the quiet resurgence of the variety in recent times
Near Quiroga, wasn't there an old pilgrim's hospital?
Laurie, we haven't mentioned Sr. Casimiro in Montefurado! It sounds like one could spend many hours waiting for the train, entertained by him.
Oh Yes....,I do recommend point 1 in Laurie’s post. ( Thanks to Charrito!)
After arriving from O Barco, I left my things in Hostal Niza, had some lunch, and walked on to Montefurado in the afternoon. Nice walk. Arrived an hour before trainscedule, but there where places to sit and rest.
Be aware that the train stops at the next platform, not the nearest.
I stayed in A Rua 2 nights ( Sunday with pulpos in every bar). Took the train back to Montefurado at 10, 7 had been a better option.
The walk from Montefurado to Soldon was nice, but next time I will stay on the road when the camino takes off through wood with lots of ups and downs before Bendillo. I see that on the map 04 in the Brierley guide the camino follows the road, not the way offroad.
Sarah saw a boar with piglets on the same road after Montefurado!
I do not have much to tell about Soldon since I cancelled my booking there. I arrived there in the aftenoon during a shower, had a break under the bridge and walked on. The place looked empty.
In Quiroga I went on to San Clodio where I stayed in Hotel Las Vegas.
C clearly Marbe and RanthrRegarding the Brierley guide - "Camino Sanabres and Camino Invierno" - let's be more precise!
The guide covers the portion of the Sanabres only from Ourense. If you take out the part that duplicates the Invierno, calculate against the full Sanabres from Granja de Moreruela, and consider that 1 Camino = 1 Camino, no matter how long it is, the guide covers only about 1.16 Caminos.
Nevertheless, I am very impressed with how effective his maps are, for me, especially after doing several virtual caminos this past year without such a guide. Doing this research on a thread such as this is more fun while we are in isolation, and the additional insights and impressions are very interesting, but I'll be carrying my Brierley (minus some unnecessary sections) when I walk. I just like it!
Lots of lodging options in Quiroga, so we are open for opinions! There is a youth hostel, so beware of large exuberant groups of young people. My go-to place is the Quiper, all details in the guide. And hands down my favorite restaurant is the Aroza, which is a little off the main drag. On my first Invierno in 2008, a Cuban woman in a small grocery shop recommended that I try it. That was after we had decided that if the powers that be left it to us, we could figure out how to restore harmony between our respective countries.
Hi, Annette,At the time we had not realised that the train left A Rua around 7am otherwise we would have been on it ....as forecast was for heat.
ARua to Quioga route question?
As an alternative, has anyone just walked from ARua to Quiroga using N 120. Looking at Gronze’s map linked to the towns..
Hi, Annette,
My understanding is that the time of the train has changed and there is no longer a train at 10 just one a day, as before, with an earlier time of departure.
I have gotten clarifying information on this option. There is a virtually traffic-free asphalt road that runs parallel to the N-120. You can see it on google maps.
After Soldón, there is completely deserted tarmac side road parallel to N-120. First for a little while on its right side and then all the way to parque industrial in Quiroga on its left side where you go through underpass and to Quiroga.
So that is another option for those who find themselves dragging at the end of the day.
I for one welcome your positive contributions to help compile this really useful resource, and I'm following it eagerly, but do you really feel you are owed a debt of gratitude for your trouble and that everyone should just follow your directions without questioning? We all find our way eventually, it's part of the fun, and it should be fun. Just my own opinion..You will now see why I decided NOT to continue participating in this thread. It seems that some people aren't grateful for up-to-date, accurate informati
That is my bottom line as well. I know that there are forum members who are now reluctant to post for fear that they will be aggressively contradicted. I am going to leave the last few posts up for now, so that we can all see what is going on. I am also asking that those people who realize that the whole point is to share our experiences, give the best information we can, and want to continue to share — please continue to do so!it should be fun.
I am actually looking forward to walking the Invierno, because of all of you.... ....hopefully in Sept. if not then, in Oct or Nov...or ..whenever the plane doors to the Atlantic open up...your unique experiences, ideas and recommendations will go with me and I am so grateful for them. I hope we can continue this journey all the way to Santiago together!That is my bottom line as well. I know that there are forum members who are now reluctant to post for fear that they will be aggressively contradicted. I am going to leave the last few posts up for now, so that we can all see what is going on. I am also asking that those people who realize that the whole point is to share our experiences, give the best information we can, and want to continue to share — please continue to do so!
We are doing our best to help each other and have a little fun in the process.
Very good points, and easy to lose sight of....regarding any kind of planning these days, everything is in a constant state of flux....As well, we all know infrastructure along the various routes is already changing because of the pandemic, with some accommodations closing or already closed, train times altering, etc This is a lovely reminisce and planning conversation but we need to remember that plans made now may not be suitable next year or the years after.... we can only hope and dream, have fun and be philosophical.
Just my thoughts...
Also @Theatregal.VN stayed in Pensión Pacita, which is a few hundred meters off the camino, close to the very pretty hamlet of Barxa do Lor.
When I went through Barxa del Lor, there were two fierce dogs chained at the same place, but the one which was leeping fiercely against his metal chain was truly dangerous. I was certain that, if the chain broke I was dead. Oddly, I had seen the most beautiful, large and tame dog of my life a short distance before. I almost missed it, as it was lying on the front porch of a house that I passed, completely unmoving: a very large dog of the type used as guard dogs in Spain, and with a mixed colour coat brushed to a shine. When I noticed the front door of the house open and heard chatter from inside, I understood this was a comfortable domestic pet.Also @Theatregal.
I really loved this place, and the friendly family feeling. It broke up the stage nicely, and means you tackle the hill after BdL first thing in the morning. It's extremely quiet here, but I like that.
I stayed in the albergue in Quiroga, and vaguely remember stopping at a bar on the same side of the street for breakfast that morning. It didn't make a huge impression, because I can't remember any details. What I do remember about this stage is crossing the river into San Clodio, which seemed a pretty place, and then what felt like a long walk uphill through the pine plantation. It's biologically boring, but the light was pretty. The views as you get higher and emerge into a meadow were very nice.
Barxa do Lor is sweet, but now mostly bypassed by the newer superhighway that sails past it.
Then another climb, and the second 'different universe' experience on this camino. We've left the Sil Valley, and the particular feeling of the communities there (which I can't find a way to describe), and emerge into full-on Galicia — gone are the pine plantations, the Vineyards, and the slate plants; suddenly we emerge from the valley into in dairy country. Cows, green pastures, oak trees, and blooming broom.
Pobra was a much bigger place than Barxa do Lor, an actual happening town. The bar I stopped at for cafe was a busy and upbeat place, but once again my timing was crummy and not much else was open in town.
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