- Time of past OR future Camino
- C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
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One forum member wrote that he had been attacked by dogs outside the fence of the Fabrica between Cornatel and Borrenes. The gate was open and the dogs were unchained.Years ago, I was very involved in the conversation about the big barking mastiff in Villavieja, and I am so glad that has been resolved. But he was nothing compared to this. My first experience with the dog outside Barxa do Lor (sometimes two dogs) was on my third Invierno, so I really lucked out the first two times. This was probably the scariest dog experience I’ve ever had on a camino, even though he was chained. But I am hopeful that some official involvement will help with that.
Do you know where the other dogs were that attacked the people you met? I think that, in general, the Invierno is no “worse” than any other untraveled camino in rural Spain in terms of loose dogs. After many years of paralyzing fear, I’ve gotten to the point that I can walk past some loose barking dogs without feeling my heart jump through my chest. @Rebekah Scott was a very good teacher.
Even more concerned after reading this.BTW, I have seen pictures and a video of wild boar on the Invierno. Sara’s video showed a wild boar with her piglet during the rutting season (Nov.-Jan.). I would be more concerned about one’s safety meeting a boar, especially if you are walking alone rather than a dog! Do you know what to do if you encounter them?
Some useful information! These you do not want to feed!
How to Survive a Wild Boar Attack | All You Need to Know
Want to learn how to survive a wild boar attack? This guide here will help you live to tell the story of an encounter with a boar!restlessbackpacker.com
Wow, thank heavens I had not read this until now.! We knew nothing about wild boars before we went walking in Corsica a few years ago or we wouldn't have got anywhere........they were everywhere in the mountains. We passed hundreds of them for a few days and they took no notice of us as we flew by. They were too busy burrowing.Then the refuges would serve up a wild boar dish at night....every night!!!BTW, I have seen pictures and a video of wild boar on the Invierno. Sara’s video showed a wild boar with her piglet during the rutting season (Nov.-Jan.). I would be more concerned about one’s safety meeting a boar, especially if you are walking alone rather than a dog! Do you know what to do if you encounter them?
Some useful information! These you do not want to feed!
How to Survive a Wild Boar Attack | All You Need to Know
Want to learn how to survive a wild boar attack? This guide here will help you live to tell the story of an encounter with a boar!restlessbackpacker.com
Wow, thank heavens I had not read this until now.! We knew nothing about wild boars before we went walking in Corsica a few years ago or we wouldn't have got anywhere........they were everywhere in the mountains. We passed hundreds of them for a few days and they took no notice of us as we flew by. They were too busy burrowing.Then the refuges would serve up a wild boar dish at night....every night!!!
Perhaps the French ones are more docile than the Spanish ones!!
Torre Vilariño to Chantada
This was a 'Wow!" day all day long: The dew-bedazled walk to Diomondi with the view ahead towards Monte Faro, Diomondi itself, the beautiful descent on the old road to the river (with the 'ta-daa' reveal at the end), then the zig-zag climb up the other side, finally looking back to the other side. (Culminating with being interviewed by a reporter for the Vox de Galicia as I slouched into town after all that looking, suitably pilgrimesque...)
I've attached a photo of the turn-off to Diomondi at the bus stop and 100km marker...don't miss it! We all love the cows on either side of the side door, but the lupos gracing the main entrance are wonderful too. The message being "Mind your ps and qs, children, or else..."
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Yes, that's where it is. And not to worry, that's not slate, it's old paving stones. I don't remember the grade as being at all difficult anywhere on that stretch. It was nothing at all like the stretches of the Francés going down to Zubiri or Molinaseca. You just have to be careful not to trip because the paving stones are irregular.I noted the picture with pieces of slate descending on the trail. Is this the trail down to Belesar? Is it a reasonable grade, with a wide traverse down? Or is the downhill a steep grade?
Ditto.my memory is of a very comfortable and pleasant day, nothing spectacular, just a good day on the Invierno. A nice mix of terrain, some cardio to get up to the top, and only some annoying kilometers next to the wind turbines.
I was given the bread I tried to buy at the panaderia in one of those villages. It was utterly delicious!! I can't remember which one, but the camino went right by it.I remember buying some great bread from a bakery in one of those hamlets
Not to mention not to mention the Panaderia it's supplies the royal family with their bread everyday. That's the place I want to check out next time!Rodeiro is a big-ish town, all services.
I liked it too, especially the chatty and slightly bossy (in a good and quite funny way) abuela.Really a nice spot.
Chantada to Rodeiro.
Did not see much that day, so I might have to come back sometime in nice weather.
Stayed in Carpinteiras.
This was before they opened the albergue. Remember granny who made me a nice meal. The rest of the town seemed closed when I arrived probably during siesta on a Sunday.
At the intersection of the camino with this road, there are a whole bunch of arrows telling you DO NOT DO THIS, but I figure with a sense of direction and a good map, why not?
The wooden steps were on the way down, since I did not go up to the Capela In the fog, I thought perhaps it was another path up to the top, I think I still could hear the sound of the windmills up there. It was before I crossed the bridge over po-533. This was in 2018.@ranthr, where are those wooden steps? They look very new, and I have no memory of them.
Hi Ranthr and LaurieThe wooden steps were on the way down, since I did not go up to the Capela In the fog, I thought perhaps it was another path up to the top, I think I still could hear the sound of the windmills up there. It was before I crossed the bridge over po-533. This was in 2018.
When I look at the map in Brierley, it is markt as a fuente.
My memory is of the most unpleasant and dangerous day in all my camino walking. It poured rain all day (Nov. 5, 2019) and not a single pedestrian or vehicle passed me on the long walk through the park and past the windmills. I kept to the main camino route, as I saw it, and when there was a marked flight of steps up to the sanctuary I did not go up. I kept myself reasonably dry with my new raingear, and was very grateful for the excellent trail marking, as it was impossible to take out my phone to check my location in the downpour. I walked with extreme care, since I was not likely to be found by a passer-by after a fall or injury and could not call for help. Note: I did have my emergency beacon and could have set off the alarm, but I have no idea of the speed of a response. I was very aware of the lack of any shelter on the day's walk. I was pleased to see the windmills, as a mark of progress and ended my day in Hostal Carpinteiras at Rodeiro, glad it was over.my memory is of a very comfortable and pleasant day
I had a look at that route on Google maps street view. Although it involves road walking, there is likely not much traffic. However, from street view, it seems that there is often no shoulder to walk on - this can be hazardous if visibility is poor or if drivers are speeding. Maybe that is a reason not to use it. (But I only had a quick look, so it is worth looking more carefully.)it's possible to completely avoid the windmills by doing this:
What kind of personal locator beacon did you carry, Alberta girl?My memory is of the most unpleasant and dangerous day in all my camino walking. It poured rain all day (Nov. 5, 2019) and not a single pedestrian or vehicle passed me on the long walk through the park and past the windmills. I kept to the main camino route, as I saw it, and when there was a marked flight of steps up to the sanctuary I did not go up. I kept myself reasonably dry with my new raingear, and was very grateful for the excellent trail marking, as it was impossible to take out my phone to check my location in the downpour. I walked with extreme care, since I was not likely to be found by a passer-by after a fall or injury and could not call for help. Note: I did have my emergency beacon and could have set off the alarm, but I have no idea of the speed of a response. I was very aware of the lack of any shelter on the day's walk. I was pleased to see the windmills, as a mark of progress and ended my day in Hostal Carpinteiras at Rodeiro, glad it was over.
A further reflection on my post #321, about my unpleasant day walking from Chantada to Rodeiro. I think that my reflections may have come across as very negative. They were a response to @peregrina2000 's favourable comments on the day's walk, as I remembered how my experience was different from hers. I evaluated the dangers of the day, as I always do when I walk alone. I found it both unpleasant and a day when I became very aware that I was entirely dependent on myself in this solitary situation. However, thanks to my carefully chosen gear, I did not get wet through. I am always self-reliant (by choice) on my long walks, although they are seldom totally alone on camino. Except for the complete solitude, this day was little different from three quarters of my days on the Invierno, where I walked alone, mostly in the rain.
Now that would be fun! I think that in all my caminos I haven't seen more than a handful of female cyclists, and most if not all of them were traveling with a guy. Nothing wrong with that of course, but an all women’s group would be a hoot.a women's cycling club in Madrid
They are clean, nothing fancy, decent bathroom, exterior window. I remember thinking the towels were nicer than in your standard 20-something € pensión.What are the private rooms like at Carpinteriras?
I carry a Spot emergency beacon. It weighs about 100 grams and gives a direct contact through a satellite to a monitoring station which contacts local emergency services when a signal is received.What kind of personal locator beacon did you carry, Alberta girl?
Do you have a year plan, or rent the satellite service per trip? Would you mind letting me know what the approximate cost of the service is?I carry a Spot emergency beacon. It weighs about 100 grams and gives a direct contact through a satellite to a monitoring station which contacts local emergency services when a signal is received.
It was a hoot! First as I left the bar in A Feira, when they sped past hooting and hollering and waving at the smokers in front of the bar (who all yelled back) and then at the hostel in Rodeiro. Dinner was lots of fun! It was quite the end of day after the hours of quiet solitary walking!Now that would be fun! I think that in all my caminos I haven't seen more than a handful of female cyclists, and most if not all of them were traveling with a guy. Nothing wrong with that of course, but an all women’s group would be a hoot.
The room was great - bright, clean, quiet - nice bathroom. The thing I remember most about it was the woodland scene photo mural that covered the whole wall behind the bedWhat are the private rooms like at Carpinteriras?
They are honest reflections @Albertagirl ! This wasn't the easiest day for me either and I can relate to a lot of what you experienced.A further reflection on my post #321, about my unpleasant day walking from Chantada to Rodeiro. I think that my reflections may have come across as very negative.
While, this is tricky. It is now possible to get monthly services, for a reasonable price. I have always had yearly service, which was all that was possible when I first signed up. This past year, I got a bargain which included both a new Gen3 beacon and a yearly service. As far as I can recall, the service part of it was $100. US for the year. But monthly services are now also available and would be cheaper than the regular yearly price. In the past, members had to cancel the yearly service a month in advance of the annual renewal date, or the contract was automatically renewed for a year and the member's credit card charged the annual rate. This made a certain amount of sense, as members might be anywhere in the world and liable to forget about renewing it. I need to renew or change to monthly service by early August this year, or my annual service is likely to be renewed at whatever the current charge is. You can find lots of information online about Spot, including about different types of hardware and the annual and seasonal service charges. You can currently get a monthly service plan for $14.95 US a month. I use this only for emergency use, when my cell phone has no service, and for checking in with family when I am walking in the mountains. You can find out about current hardware and services at: findmespot.comDo you have a year plan, or rent the satellite service per trip? Would you mind letting me know what the approximate cost of the service is?
I can imagine your walk that day. On my walk I saw nothing at all, dumped into a couple of mills that I saw only when I was very close. Luckily it did not rain.A further reflection on my post #321, about my unpleasant day walking from Chantada to Rodeiro. I think that my reflections may have come across as very negative. They were a response to @peregrina2000 's favourable comments on the day's walk, as I remembered how my experience was different from hers. I evaluated the dangers of the day, as I always do when I walk alone. I found it both unpleasant and a day when I became very aware that I was entirely dependent on myself in this solitary situation. However, thanks to my carefully chosen gear, I did not get wet through. I am always self-reliant (by choice) on my long walks, although they are seldom totally alone on camino. Except for the complete solitude, this day was little different from three quarters of my days on the Invierno, where I walked alone, mostly in the rain.
Haha love it. The things that happen on camino!As we were leaving, the Mayor of Rodeiro stopped in his Mercedes and offered us a lift to town...which we declined (wow, a lift in a Mercedes...any other time please!!)
I did however invite him to become Mayor of London!! View attachment 92935
CHANTADA to RODEIRO. (25.8KM) Taxi for about 9km to Penasillas. (Dicky ankle..) Bar opened for me and another pilgrim met briefly here, then didn’t charge for cup of tea. If its closed, knock on the door of house on its right where the owner lives. Lovely lady, bar just not always open.
Alto de Faro.. definitely worth the ascent, up the stone steps, on the left, then grass via the Stations of the Cross, for the fabulous view, and there’s a covered structure for shelter or lunch, near the Ermita. I continued down 50-100m?? and past the cruceiro, straight across the tarred road, then up to the modern, glass research office, building, which was interesting, then back tracked the 100m?? back down to the tarred road, where you turn left (or Right from the Cruceiro) to continue the camino. Just follow the arrows. Bit of confusion over a picnic area. I only saw a very disused picnic area on the R just about where the stone steps take you L off camino and up to the Faro, but that was all. Perhaps it was overgrown in Galician style. Signage is good.
After rejoining the camino (above) it will soon turn Right and you will walk on along a turbine service road. Hug a turbine! Or not!
Rodeira: Hospedaxe O Guerra. 20E for a lovely room, inc breakfast. Key at bar around the corner.
I was lucky with the weather too, wonderful views from the top back towards snow-capped Padornelo, which I'd crossed on 6 of my 8 previous caminos, and on towards the destinctive Pico Sacro, landing lights for arrival at Santiago for pilgrims on the Sanabrés and Invierno.I spent a good hour up the top, wished I could get into the Chapel, as ever. Wonderful views. Also enjoyed the glass box office nearby
Sorry I missed that panaderia!!Eeek, thanks to our internet getting cut off here, I'm playing catch-up. I'm glad you are all still in Rodeiro, because it's worth pinpointing the Panaderia Jesus, that delivers bread to the royal family in Madrid every day. It's down the hill and around the corner from the Carpintieras right off the big roundabout in the center of town:
I did too. We just have to walk the Invierno again @Theatregal!Sorry I missed that panaderia!!
Yes we do!I did too. We just have to walk the Invierno again @Theatregal!
Yes, we're all still in Rodeiro, enjoying the royal delights of the Panaderia and waiting for the rain to stop.Eeek, thanks to our internet getting cut off here, I'm playing catch-up. I'm glad you are all still in Rodeiro, because it's worth pinpointing the Panaderia Jesus, that delivers bread to the royal family in Madrid every day. It's down the hill and around the corner from the Carpintieras right off the big roundabout in the center of town:
Cool ... I wasn't sure I'd get the chance to make a pertinent comment on this thread, but I ended up in Lalin after going wrong on the Sanabres, so I know this tiny bit of the Camino de Invierno ...I like Lalín, lots going on, lots of services. I have stayed in the Hotel Restaurante El Palacio and it was fine. Others can give their recommendations. On my other caminos, I continued further on — once to the albergue in A Laxe (not my favorite albergue)
The owner of the panadería assures the writer that the bread will stay fresh for one week if wrapped in a cloth, because it is artisanal bread of high quality.
Sourdough from a wood-fired oven? OMG I missed out bigtime. Next time, I'll have to buy enough to last a couple of days. With bread like that all you need to make a perfect lunch is a ripe tomato and a handful of olives, and maybe some cheese. Hummus would be even better, and you can probably find it in Lalin — there's a big Carrefour and Lidl on the Northern edge of town.so be sure to bring what you need.
I got lost in Lalin, trying to find the location of this albergue in the dark and in the rain. Eventually, I ended up there, for a comfortable night. In the morning, I took a photo of the large statue of a pig that stands at the entrance to this shopping arcade, facing onto the main street. If you see this pig, its hind end stands at the entrance to this arcade. Look left as you walk along the arcade to see the street number and bell of the albergue, which is upstairs.The private albergue Lalin Centro is excellent - a recently converted apartment in a 1960s block which sits over a covered shopping arcade.
I got lost in Lalin, trying to find the location of this albergue in the dark and in the rain. Eventually, I ended up there, for a comfortable night. In the morning, I took a photo of the large statue of a pig that stands at the entrance to this shopping arcade, facing onto the main street. If you see this pig, its hind end stands at the entrance to this arcade. Look left as you walk along the arcade to see the street number and bell of the albergue, which is upstairs.
... is also marked on Brierly's map of Rodeiro.Panaderia Jesus,
The private albergue Lalin Centro is excellent - a recently converted apartment in a 1960s block which sits over a covered shopping arcade. Well heated rooms. Good showers. Coin-op washing machine and drier. Decently equipped kitchen with dining area. Green grocers immediately in front of the entrance to the building.
Albergue Lalín Centro | Albergue de Peregrinos en Lalín | Gronze.com
Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue Lalín Centro, en Lalín: Precio, plazas, características, etc...www.gronze.com
The owner, Emiliano, runs the Casa do Gato ("The cathouse") pizzeria and bar around the corner. That's where you pick up keys and check in to the albergue. Emiliano is involved in the local camino association. The welcome at the Casa do Gato is warm and sincere. Winding up in Lalin was one of the best mistakes I made on my VDLP / Sanabres camino.
Question to the dog whisperers here... If several dogs are gathering and threatening to attack, would tossing a couple of small dog treats really help? I'd be afraid they'll demand more.I don't really like to carry dog treats
Also interested . I honestly doubt it would have worked this time and anyway, I had both hands occupied with hiking sticks fending them off...Question to the dog whisperers here... If several dogs are gathering and threatening to attack, would tossing a couple of small dog treats really help? I'd be afraid they'll demand more.
It depends. Of it's a pack of really serious dogs and they're intent on making trouble, probably not. Those Alsatians, for example.would tossing a couple of small dog treats really help? I'd be afraid they'll demand more.
Rather late in the day.... but I thought I would chip in on two fronts:Into Monforte de Lemos (12.5 km from Pobra de Brollón, 18 km from Salcedo, about 20 from Pensión Pacita).
For those who want to walk beyond Monforte and stay within the 25 km range, there are options, so stay tuned. But I thought I would stop here to let people give their recommendations about Monforte. It is the major city on the Invierno and is the “official starting point” for those who will walk the minimum distance for a compostela. One of the Invierno Associations has its headquarters here, and some members have met Aida Menéndez, one of the tireless champions for Invierno official recognition.
From Pobra de Brollón to Monforte there is one small ascent, a few small towns, and one terribly muddy and always watersoaked short stretch.
I am hoping VN will give us info on the castro (hill fort) she took a slight detour to see.
I am hoping others will tell us about their visit to the Colegio de los Escolapios in Monforte, which I have never visited. There are two El Grecos there, I’ve been told, but I am really not an El Greco fan, so I (shamefully) never made the effort.
I am hoping others will also tell us about the tour to the wine museum, another place I haven’t visited, and any other fun times they had in Monforte.
So, you may wonder, what have I done all those times I have been in Monforte?! For me, it’s a very nice small city with wonderful open space, a nice parador to climb up to, and a small historic center with nice cafés.
Of my three times there, once I walked through and on to Torre Vilariño (which I will rave about in the next stage, and yes Albertagirl it is back in business); once I stayed in the parador in Monforte and was content to stay put and luxuriate in the creature comforts there; and once I stayed in Mon comeysueña https://www.facebook.com/hostalmon (which I very highly recommend, both for its hostal and its home cooking in the restaurant). I spent my afternoon walking around the central area with @annettelondon. So I can tell you that even if you are not keen to visit museums or monasteries, you will find that Monforte has a lot going on and is a great place to stop.
Do you know where the other dogs were that attacked the people you met? I think that, in general, the Invierno is no “worse” than any other untraveled camino in rural Spain in terms of loose dogs. After many years of paralyzing fear, I’ve gotten to the point that I can walk past some loose barking dogs without feeling my heart jump through my chest. @Rebekah Scott was a very good teacher.
Actually, I had thought of that, as it would keep the distance down for you. It is a very lovely stage, but I would cut corners to get to Pazo Bendoiro early enough to enjoy it. And for those who might object, I think we can be pretty sure that the “real pilgrims” did not take our lolly-gagging lovely stroll through rural Galicia, but would have gone straight from Rodeiro to Lalín.Or if you want to head straight to Pazo Bendoiro, with a stop for lunch in Lalin.
I took the ”real pilgrims” routeActually, I had thought of that, as it would keep the distance down for you. It is a very lovely stage, but I would cut corners to get to Pazo Bendoiro early enough to enjoy it. And for those who might object, I think we can be pretty sure that the “real pilgrims” did not take our lolly-gagging lovely stroll through rural Galicia, but would have gone straight from Rodeiro to Lalín.
Walked through Lalin to Hotel Torre de Deza where I spent the night, stay booked at booking.com. Just a hotel, wouldn’t say a treat, was a bit disappointed that I had to have my dinner in a noisy bar and not in the restaurant.
Caveat browser. That website makes the hotel look ten times more attractive than it is. I stopped there to use the bathroom after making my way out of Lalin. It reminded me of hotels where corporate sales organizations hold their kick off meetings when they're not achieving their targets.This is the hotel in the middle of the commercial/industrial park, Hotel Torre de Deza
I have stayed a couple of times in the Hotel Vitorino. It’s a family run place. It has a nice outdoor café part, a restaurant indoors with family cooking. Rooms are no frills but all good condition and very clean. I remember that in 2019, even before the pandemic, they were worried about declining numbers of pilgrims. Hope they are making it.Recommendations for accommodations in Bandeira?
Naa - the ‘real pilgrims’ go to Silleda from Rodeiro!!Actually, I had thought of that, as it would keep the distance down for you. It is a very lovely stage, but I would cut corners to get to Pazo Bendoiro early enough to enjoy it. And for those who might object, I think we can be pretty sure that the “real pilgrims” did not take our lolly-gagging lovely stroll through rural Galicia, but would have gone straight from Rodeiro to Lalín.
I have heard good things about this albergue and have tried to stop there on my last couple of trips through, on the VdlP and then on the Invierno. Both times, I was walking in November, and both times they were closed. I was content to walk on. But if you were thinking of it as a bed for the night after the end of a long day, it might be a good idea to book ahead, or at least check in advance if they were going to be open.the Albergue Casa Dornelas looks like a very special place.
I stayed in Hostal Conde Rey. Good menu del dia in the bar. Room cheap, but cold. I think this was the place where you had to turn on heat in the shower to get hot water. There was some writing about it in the forum, may be @OzAnnie mentioned it, so I was aware of the problem. Next time if everRecommendations for accommodations in Bandeira?
Unfortunately, if people think this way, Mike, the route will not get that well traveled, because I do not believe most “real” pilgrims do circa 35km per dayNaa - the ‘real pilgrims’ go to Silleda from Rodeiro!!
We've covered this stretch of the camino in some detail in the Via de la Plata / Sanabres virtual caminos. Perhaps someone should put a link to those threads here - or copy over the pertinent posts.
Glad you mentioned your experience in Silleda. I have stayed in Silleda too, I think it was when I walked the Levante, and we were in the Albergue Turístico Silleda. It was actually an apartment or two turned quasi-albergue. Private rooms, shared bath, good spot.then into Silleda and the Hostal Ramos (pilgrim rate 18 euro).
When I walked the Sanabres, the Albergue Turistico Silleda was full but they said we were welcome to come by for dinner. We did and it was delicious! The people at our table who were staying there said it was great.Glad you mentioned your experience in Silleda. I have stayed in Silleda too, I think it was when I walked the Levante, and we were in the Albergue Turístico Silleda. It was actually an apartment or two turned quasi-albergue. Private rooms, shared bath, good spot.
If I ever get back to Silleda/Bandeira, I will try my hardest to visit the Mosteiro de San Lorenzo de Carboeiro. I had no idea it was there, till I saw it mentioned on the Albergue Turístico’s website. It’s about 7 km from either Silleda or Bandeira, so that would be a pretty hefty afternoon walk of 14 kms, but it looks really pretty amazing.
Info on the monastery here. Not a great website, so for pictures look at the wikipedia entry.
And the monastery is not far from the highest waterfalls in Galicia, Fervenza de Toxa. Also looks very nice. I know that at this point in a camino, there may be a real incentive to get to Santiago, but if you are prone to dilly dally, this would be a nice excursion. Both Bandeira and Silleda have taxis......
I stayed in Bandeira's albergue for the first time in late November 2019. On my previous 8 times on this part of the Sanabrés I've always carried on to Ponteulla, but the weather that day was so vile so decided to stop the night. After an excellent lunch in the Atly bar on the main drag, where I've eaten several times (fish soup, potato and veal guisado, very tasty light white wine, home made sponge, 9 or 10€, highly recommended - once I had pulpo there, but not every day on the mdd). Very nice atmosphere, with the staff's children turning up at 3pm and starting on their homework.The albergue is new, clean, and gets good reviews on Gronze. I visited it when I last stayed in Bandeira and it had just opened. Very functional and modern.
There is an off-piste solution to everything. In this case about 21kms from Silleda to Dornellas, taking in both of these wonders:I know that at this point in a camino, there may be a real incentive to get to Santiago, but if you are prone to dilly dally, this would be a nice excursion. Both Bandeira and Silleda have taxis......
Great minds think alike. Off the beaten path there are many options!So here’s an idea for anyone with lots of time. How about walking from either Silleda or Bandeira to the falls, 7 km, then a circle hike from the falls to the monastery and back (see wikiloc entry with lots of pictures), 13 km, then 7 km back to either Silleda or Bandeira.
Unfortunately, if people think this way, Mike, the route will not get that well traveled, because I do not believe most “real” pilgrims do circa 35km per dayand good for the ones that do.....
So here’s an idea for anyone with lots of time. How about walking from either Silleda or Bandeira to the falls, 7 km, then a circle hike from the falls to the monastery and back (see wikiloc entry with lots of pictures), 13 km, then 7 km back to either Silleda or Bandeira.
That would be a nice way to enjoy a 27 km walk IMO!
Or maybe even better — sleep in Silleda, then walk out to do the circle around the monastery and the falls, and then end the day in Bandeira. That way, you will at least make some progress towards Santiago!
So, while this is fresh in our minds, VN, I wonder if you have seen the circle route I posted above from wikiloc. It seems to take a marked trail, which makes it a few kms longer than your direct route. My thinking is that the best way to walk this would be to walk from Silleda to the Monastery, then get on the northern half of the circle to the waterfalls (based on the pictures, the northern half seems much more interesting than the southern half), enjoy the falls and then move on to either Bandeira or Dornelas.Great minds think alike. Off the beaten path there are many options!
Another solution - there are hotels/casa rurales in the vicinity of Reboredo, near the Mosteiro.I will try my hardest to visit the Mosteiro de San Lorenzo de Carboeiro. I had no idea it was there, till I saw it mentioned on the Albergue Turístico’s website. It’s about 7 km from either Silleda or Bandeira, so that would be a pretty hefty afternoon walk of 14 kms, but it looks really pretty amazing
I agree completely. I only saw your wikiloc track after putting up my post. I'd be avoiding Bandeira, and going directly to Dornelas. Or if I still had daylight hours and energy at Silleda, to keep going and follow @C clearly's good idea to stay in Reboredo - and then spend the next night in Ponte Ulla.My thinking is that the best way to walk this would be to walk from Silleda to the Monastery, then get on the northern half of the circle to the waterfalls (based on the pictures, the northern half seems much more interesting than the southern half), enjoy the falls and then move on to either Bandeira or Dornelas.
Or if I still had daylight hours and energy at Silleda, to keep going and follow @C clearly's good idea to stay in Reboredo
So one could just carry on past Silleda and stay there instead. I was not wild about either Silleda or Bandeira, so this is a nice option.Looks like a very nice option, Casa Goris. I am a sucker for those big old stone houses with huge fireplaces. It’s about 3 or 4 kms after the monastery, right on that wikiloc circle!
Leaving Lalin first along the river and then through a commercial area to A Laxe, past the albergue and across a highway for the turn off on the left and onto the Sanabres. Just before the turn off is a great café, Restaurante Maria Jośe. I’ve stopped here twice and both times a warm welcome and the best tortilla I’ve had on any caminos!
Turning off the highway leads through a green tunnel path and along stone walls and farm fields, then a short walk along the road and off again onto a quiet path arriving very soon at a bridge over the Rio Deza with views beyond of the arched Taboada Railway Bridge.
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The year before (2018) when walking he Sanabres I continued over the bridge while admiring the views of the rail bridge and missed the arrow to the left off the path before the bridge. It turned out to be a happy accident because once across the bridge and another 200 metres or so, is the Taboada Railway Station. It’s a beautiful old station with a little cafe.
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Opening hours depend on train schedules. I didn’t make the detour to the station this time but it is worth it if you need a coffee / bathroom stop.
Making the correct turn leads down a path under the rail bridge and further along a stone road to the beautiful historic Taboada Bridge with it's single pointed arch. I was alone here and found this place as magical this time as the last. If you’re feeling adventurous there are side paths to explore before the bridge, leading to the river including a set of stone steps under a low opening on the left side at the beginning of the bridge.
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Soon after crossing, look for the stone on the left with an inscription in latin from the builders of the bridge.
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The path winds up to the highway and a detour across to the 12th century Romanesque church of Santiago de Taboada. I missed stopping here in 2018, so was happy to find it open with a friendly attendant who answered all my questions as I had a good look around.
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Crossing back over the highway, the camino leads off road and through farmland and in a section of about 200 metres, along a stone path that in 2018, was a shoe covering, muddy slippery stream. Other than one shorter wet area, it was much drier this year but I was still very grateful for my poles for stability while navigating through!
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Continuing on, is a beautiful oak tree shaded stretch along a quiet road leading to the hamlet of Trasfontao and then into Silleda and the Hostal Ramos (pilgrim rate 18 euro). Comfortable single room with bathroom. There is a café at the hostal as well.
Sorry to hear that. It was an interesting stop with friendly people. I'm glad I had the chance to experience it!You mentioned that there is a cafe which is open according to train scedule at The Taboada Railway Station. According to google,+ renfe, this station is permanently closed now.
I usually walk with people who are crazy enough to want to do that no matter where we stay, so I have left as early as 4, maybe even earlier. You just need to set your alarm earlier, @Raggy!One day I'll stay there. I like the idea of reaching the cathedral in time for the pilgrim mass.
@Raggy did you eat there? @alansykes once recommended it highly I think. He has never steered me wrong with restaurant recommendations, and I had planned to eat there once, but something happened to change the plan. Next time!restaurant villa verde
Just like real life!Sorry to see this ending soon!
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