Porto to Santiago, following coast and then central

[Betsy C.]

I am preparing for my very first Camino! Not sure if I am crazy or not, but am having fun trying to find out everything I can before I start (September 2017 is the tentative date). A friend told me she started in Porto and took the Seashore Path to start, and then moved over to the Central Path at some point in the first two days, though she can't remember where this happened. In Brierley's book it looks like I could move over to the Central Path at Vila do Conde, but he says that the route is not marked and you could get lost easily. Does anyone have any ideas of the best way to start on the coast and then move over?

 

[Pat McLoughlin]

I am preparing for my very first Camino! Not sure if I am crazy or not, but am having fun trying to find out everything I can before I start (September 2017 is the tentative date). A friend told me she started in Porto and took the Seashore Path to start, and then moved over to the Central Path at some point in the first two days, though she can't remember where this happened. In Brierley's book it looks like I could move over to the Central Path at Vila do Conde, but he says that the route is not marked and you could get lost easily. Does anyone have any ideas of the best way to start on the coast and then move over?

Hey Betsy,
I did the Porto to Santiago route this June. The first day I walked from Porto to Villa do Conde and then crossed over to join the central path in Rates (Sao Pedro de Rates). I had no problem with finding my way and the route was reasonably marked. From Porto to Villa do Conde, the first 10km or so are along the waterfront/coast with no markings (from my recollections). However, if the water is to your left, you are heading in the right direction. Once you meet the boardwalks along the coast there are some yellow arrows. The distance is around 35km which I found too much for the first day. If I knew then what I know now, I would have taken the subway to Matosinhos knocking off the first 10 km which is mainly the coastal suburbs of Porto anyway. From Matosinhos to Villa do Conde it's more or less boardwalks. You can stay in Villa do Conde and cross over to Rates the next day. While Villa do Conde to Rates it is not waymarked to the same degree as the main route there are some painted yellow arrows. Be careful leaving Villa do Conde that you take the correct route but you'll be fine if you head towards Arcos. I remember sometimes walking on the road being a bit hairy with oncoming cars and blind bends. Hope this is of some help.

 

[Mike J D]

I did the same route 2 weeks ago. Lovely walk along the coast. It was important to me to walk the whole way so I left my Porto Albergue and walked to Labruge. It's a nice little Albergue, 24k from Porto, with a kitchen and wifi, just for donation. The lady in the hairdressers across the road is the caretaker. The next day I continued along the coast to Vila do Conde, ate lunch then turned inland to Rates. I must say it was tricky leaving V d C with very few arrows. The guide book was probably more helpful. As soon as you hit Rates all is good though. Carry plenty of water from the last village on the climb after Ponte de Lima, and book your accom in Santiago. Also book and stay at Cassa Fernanda, it was perhaps the highlight of my camino.
Bon camino

 

[AML]

I did the same route 2 weeks ago. Lovely walk along the coast. It was important to me to walk the whole way so I left my Porto Albergue and walked to Labruge. It's a nice little Albergue, 24k from Porto, with a kitchen and wifi, just for donation. The lady in the hairdressers across the road is the caretaker. The next day I continued along the coast to Vila do Conde, ate lunch then turned inland to Rates. I must say it was tricky leaving V d C with very few arrows. The guide book was probably more helpful. As soon as you hit Rates all is good though. Carry plenty of water from the last village on the climb after Ponte de Lima, and book your accom in Santiago. Also book and stay at Cassa Fernanda, it was perhaps the highlight of my camino.
Bon camino

Thanks Mike, I didn't realise there was albergue in Labruge! I was considering staying in Angeiras at the camping ground, which is also recommended, but this is a better option now.
Cheers
Aidan

 

[Mike J D]

The Albergue in Labruge is about 500mts from the water, just turn right at the restaurants and walk up into the village. The Albergue is close to a cafe and a grocer.

 

[PeterBarry]

Just back from Portugal/Spain,

I took metro to Matosinhos from Porto, AIRBnB'd there.
Then walked over the bridge and took coastal path to Povoa de Varzim, then next day to Esposende, then next day to Viana de Castelo.
Frome Viande de Castelo I took an early taxi to Ponte de Lima and walked to Rubiase(Spelling???)
Taxi cost €24 and took 35 mins.
Easy transition from coast to central,
would have stayed on Coastal longer only had to meet wife in TUI and wanted to do the Ponte de Lima to Rubiase as its very pretty.

BTW, Portuguese people ROCK!!!

 

[Jacobus]

Good Morning,
I did the same route in Aug 2015. Porto to Vila do Conde went by in a flash. The fish market in Matosinhos was special and the sea breeze kept me cool. As stated above it is 35 k. Out of Vila do Conde you will pass a large seminary on your left (large white bldg on high ground). For specifics to the central route try searching "Albertinho" who has all of the coastal routes and sub routes on maps with coordinates. For the Portuguese Camino he is a wonderful resource. I hope I spelled his name correctly

 

[Doogman]

Hi: If you have the time, consider starting at the cathedral in Porto, walking along the river to the coast, and then up the coast to Matosinhos. There is a subway stop at Matosinhos, so you can even return to central Porto if you want. It is not too long, and is a good warm up.

I continued on the coastal route as far as Vigo, but I believe that you can also move to the inland route from Caminha (to Valenca). I am not sure how well that route is marked. Good luck!

 

[Rainerbernd]

Olá Betsy,

There a many possibilitys to get to the Main Route Vila Do Conde >Rates > Barcelos and so on.
You can leave Porto at the cathedral and take your way along the beautiful coast to Vila do Conde on the first day. But it´s a bit on the long side.

First of all, you can ride the bus 500 Matosinhos (Mercado) from São Bento, 5 Min. from the cathedral to Passeio Alegre, near castelo da Foz. Then it´s a nice way along the rocky coast to Angeiras> Vila do Conde. Bus 500 leads to Matosinhos. Therefore you can take every stop as you please. Or take the tram No. 1 from Infante to Passeio Alegre. Public transport in Porto>: http://www.stcp.pt/en/travel/

Where to stay on your first day on the way? You can stay in nice bungalows at Orbitur camping in Angeiras (Lavra) with free swimming pool. From 9 € to 13 € per night. There you can stay more than one day. Reservation: infoangeiras@orbitur.pt with all data. Don´t forget the magic word "pilgrim"and do not book on their website or booking.com etc. Doing so, they will charge you the normal price.

Walking 10 km more, you´ll reach the Albergue Santa Clara in Vila do Conde. Info: http://www.cm-viladoconde.pt/pages/861
It opened this year and offers a lot of comfort. To get there, you have to follow the yellow arrows at the bridge in Vila Do Conde to the left. Arrows to the right will lead you to Rates.

I did the Caminho Português seven times and I work as hospitaleiro in Angeiras for more than a month every year. Also I used to live in Portugal for many years and Porto is my second home.

I personally prefer the way along the coast to Angeiras and then to Vila do Conde. There I switch to the traditional way via Rates and the beautiful city Barcelos.

Bom caminho

Rainer

 

[Camino Ariana]

I walked the coastal route this spring to Vigo then to the central route at Redondela. Very quiet and few arrows. I am going with a group next spring and we will cross over to the inland route at Cahimha. Baiona and Vigo are at the end of the coastal route but I found them to be touristy and lots of highway and city walking. The highways also often have very little space on the side and big transports are common. Very hard to find the route out of Vigo. The map I had showed three options and I found literally no arrows on the one I choose and walked the major part of the day in the city. Also if you are walking out of Vigo with no map you cannot really follow the water as there is a jut out that adds about 6 km and when you get to the top you will find that you have to go back down and end up just past where you started. There is an amazing church and views at the top of that hill - so some consolation for the extra KM

 

[Mike J D]

Hi guys, some of the responses here have me puzzled. If you colect your pilgrim passbook at the cathedral in Porto, then catch the metro down to Metosinhos, where do you say you started your camino when collected your Compostela?
Cheers

 

[Doogman]

Hi guys, some of the responses here have me puzzled. If you colect your pilgrim passbook at the cathedral in Porto, then catch the metro down to Metosinhos, where do you say you started your camino when collected your Compostela?
Cheers

Hi: I picked up my credenciale at the cathedral in Porto and then took the subway to Matosinhos. Upon arrival at SDC, I said that I had started in Porto, with my reasoning being that Matosinhos is really just a suburb of Porto. I don't think it really matters in terms of getting your Compostela, as the requirement is that you walk the last 100kms.

 

[Rainerbernd]

Olá Betsy,

I forgot to explain the way from Vila do Conde > Arcos > Rates. Here you are:

The way from Vila do Conde to Rates:

After passing the bridge entering Vila do Conde the way splits. For Rates follow the arrows to the right into Av. Figueiredo Machado. After 150 meters slightly to the left, uphills. You ´ll reach a big roundabout with metro tracks in the middle. Cross it straight ahead into Av. Bernardino Machado. The next milestone is a big warehouse in the distance. You have to pass the warehouse on the left. There are only a few arrows, but that will be no problem.

Bom caminho

Rainer