- Time of past OR future Camino
- First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
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Wish I was there...Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)
Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.
Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.
Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.
Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.
So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)
When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.
Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.
Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.
Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.
Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)
Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.
Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.
Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.
Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.
So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)
When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.
Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.
Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.
Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.
Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
The Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!The hostal rimbombin looks like a real find. Great location!
I have used the Hotel Norte y Londres, which is older in style, but nice, and cheaper (for those on a smaller budget)
Oh Yes! I forgot the bath tubs!The Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny
Consider it done.Pray for me.
Consider it done.
Take care of those tendons, and buen camino, @rappahannock_rev !
(I find the Burgos cathedral depressing. It's only the outer form of a cathedral, without essence. If I wanted to go to an art museum I'd have gone to an art museum.)
Look at YOU!Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)
Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.
Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.
Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.
Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.
So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)
When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.
Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.
Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.
Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.
Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
Jenny, My wife and I have the Hotel Norte y Londres booked for two nights this weekend. I have stayed there on two previous Caminos. It’s very comfortable and convenient. MikeThe Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny
Jeffery, hydrate always hydrate.Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)
Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.
Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.
Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.
Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.
So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)
When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.
Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.
Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.
Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.
Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
I'll have lots to tell the 2 pm Friday Camino group!Yes
Jeffery, hydrate always hydrate.
See you in a couple weeks.
I owe you a lot, Annie! Ever thought of a group Aragones walk? Lourdes to Jaca, maybe?Look at YOU!
I created a monster! lol!
Well ... an addict anyway...
So happy you're back on the Camino.
Praying your ATs heal quickly - walk slow - and take care of yourself.
Have a Blessed Camino!
Annie
Yes I stay there specifically for that nice deep bathThe Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny
Some years ago, when I had a sore AT, a physio suggested low gel inserts in the heels of the shoes to lift my heel ever so slightly and take the stretch off the tendon until it settled. It was cheap and worked, the relief was instant - maybe you could ask a health person if that is worth trying for you?Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)
Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.
Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.
Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.
Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.
So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)
When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.
Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.
Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.
Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.
Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
The pharmacists are great! Allowed to go farther in "diagnosing and prescribing" than in the USI had problems with an AT on my first Camino. I stopped in a Farmacia in Fromista and this guy sold me a compression sock. Within three days no pain. I called it the Miracle sock.
Have a wonderful stay Mike! And enjoy those delicious breakfasts in the lovely breakfast room too.Jenny, My wife and I have the Hotel Norte y Londres booked for two nights this weekend. I have stayed there on two previous Caminos. It’s very comfortable and convenient. Mike
The Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny
Okay, no more play time alone for you. Or we will have to hitch training wheels to your legs.Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!
Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.
Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....
Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.
Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.
Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.
Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.
More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!
A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....
Thurs Sept 16 . Up and down "rest day."
At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....
Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)
Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.
Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
Just so you know we'll be thinking and sending prayers your way today, I will drink your share of the wine on the patio today. ;-). Be safe Jeff.Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!
Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.
Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....
Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.
Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.
Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.
Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.
More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!
A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....
Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."
At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....
Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)
Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.
Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
I hope you tendon feel better soon. Maybe put some tea oil oil for inflammation.Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!
Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.
Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....
Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.
Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.
Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.
Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.
More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!
A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....
Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."
At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....
Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)
Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.
Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
Sending you healing warmth.Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!
Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.
Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....
Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.
Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.
Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.
Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.
More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!
A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....
Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."
At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....
Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)
Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.
Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!
Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.
Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....
Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.
Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.
Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.
Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.
More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!
A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....
Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."
At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....
Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)
Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.
Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
HelloSending prayers your way. I too love the Taberna Aurea. When I was hobbled with sciatica on my last camino, I spent many hours there.
Blessings!
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)
Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.
Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.
Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.
Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.
So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)
When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.
Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.
Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.
Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.
Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
Sept 21 -- West from Astorga
Well, gave it my best shot. And the Camino provided, as they say.
Had spent many restful low-foot-stress days recovering from 09/13 left foot injury outside Miraflores Monastery, Burgos. Armed myself with lots of ibuprofeno and compression wrap. Bought brand new Nordic trekking poles. Carrying lightest load possible on my back. Good weather for walking. Filled with righteous zeal! To be my first real walking day!! Results? Mixed.
Left ancient Astorga on foot 7:45 am headed for rustic Rabanal, against advice. But ground easy and level and familiar.... So went for it.
Mixed initial opinion on those trekking poles. Positive? Made me pay attention to my pace and my safety. Made me walk much slower than normal. Made me walk back erect, good for back. Negative? Stressed my hands and forearms. Will take getting used to! One pole kept coming apart. Will continue to use poles, and try to profit thereby.
Two hours to first break and cafe con leche. Hour and a half to second break and Fanta limon soda and more ibuprofeno. Another hour to El Ganso, where I found the famous Cowboy Bar closed!!! By this time my left foot was really stressed. I was visibly in pain. I asked an elderly local man about bus service to Rabanal -- none. Asked about hiring a taxi. At which point he offered to drive me to Rabanal himself, gratis! And did! God bless him!
So arrived at Rabanal 2 pm. Lunched and checked in to El Tesin, where I'd stayed in 2017. Nice place. Caters to pilgrims like everything else in town. And then I literally went nowhere! Just babyed my foot. Good thing there's nothing much to see in Rabanal. Even skipped the monks.... Lots of walkers today. Lots of cyclists. (Don't think much of cyclists!) And today Fall fell. Much colder than I'd expected or planned for....
Sticking to original itinerary, so tomorrow it's up and over to El Acebo. But will taxi over the mountain! I don't really need another visit to the Cruz de Ferro and I just don't want to take risks with my fragile foot. I may be enthusiastic but I'm not stupid! This trip is very different from my previous ones. But damn, I'm glad to be here again, and must trust that all will be well.
Mi corazon vive en Espana.
Pax.
My GOSH! I am SO sorry! I can't believe you carried on, you silly thing!Time to move on from this thread. (And thank you, nycwalking, for asking....)
My 2021 pilgrimage is over, and I'm safely home. It was, as every pilgrimage is, an extraordinary experience. But a difficult one. One my very first day on the Way I injured my left foot. I should have seen a doctor straight away, but didn't. ("No way! I'm a real man! I can handle this!") I carried on as best I could. I stuck to my itinerary, although I simply couldn't walk it properly, as I wanted to do. 7 to 8 km a day was the best I could ever manage, and that in great pain. Cheap local buses and occasional taxis were essential.
I'll post a number of specific notes about my walk soon enough, including one about my meeting with Ivar in SdeC!
I saw my doctor (an old friend) when I got home. He said "You broke your ankle, you idiot!" and put me in a Frankenstein boot.
No stupid shortcuts for me, next time.
Pax. Fr. J
Ooooh, I have to respectfully disagree!@VNwalking said:
I find the Burgos cathedral depressing. It's only the outer form of a cathedral, without essence
and @Robo agreed 100%
I hope you can return soon, such awful luck. BCTime to move on from this thread. (And thank you, nycwalking, for asking....)
My 2021 pilgrimage is over, and I'm safely home. It was, as every pilgrimage is, an extraordinary experience. But a difficult one. One my very first day on the Way I injured my left foot. I should have seen a doctor straight away, but didn't. ("No way! I'm a real man! I can handle this!") I carried on as best I could. I stuck to my itinerary, although I simply couldn't walk it properly, as I wanted to do. 7 to 8 km a day was the best I could ever manage, and that in great pain. Cheap local buses and occasional taxis were essential.
I'll post a number of specific notes about my walk soon enough, including one about my meeting with Ivar in SdeC!
I saw my doctor (an old friend) when I got home. He said "You broke your ankle, you idiot!" and put me in a Frankenstein boot.
No stupid shortcuts for me, next time.
Pax. Fr. J
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