Reflections on the Senda Litoral

[Corelacka]

Finished a leisurely Porto-Santiago Camino last week, staying on the Senda Litoral (SL) where possible. I am now reflecting on it and the difference between it and the Camino Frances (CF). Boardwalks, sandy paths and endless beaches featured a lot for the first two thirds. The last third was mostly forest tracks and minor roads.

The SL is very quiet in comparison to the CF, which I have done sections of over nine years. There wasn’t a backpack in sight on the first day out of Porto and it was after Matosinhos before a few stragglers appeared along the boardwalk. This grew to 25-35 peregrinos per day after Vila do Conde. Most people travelled in pairs with very few solo peregrinos. Leaving Redondela almost two weeks later was a like Sarria on steroids! The hordes of backpackers, large groups sans luggage and Spanish students on a day out took a little getting used to.

The SL is along touristy areas and the food is different to the CF – the ubiquitous ensalada mixta comes in a bowl with delicious mixture of fresh fruit and is often offered with salmon. I didn’t see any Menu del Dia but there was plenty of reasonably priced dinner options, with very generous portions and fish to die for.

I stayed in private rooms in pensións and hostels, generally booking directly the evening before. As a result I slept later and can’t comment on the early risers/plastic bag rustlers. Three hotel splurges that were well worth it!
1. Fábrica do Chocolate (Viana do Castello), a chocolate themed hotel in a former chocolate factory, based on the writings of Roald Dahl. My room had a Willy Wonka theme!
2. Occidental (Vigo), a delightful hotel in a great location, with huge room, bed and bathroom. A real treat.
3. Casa Herreria (Caldas de Reis), right on the Camino. It was like stepping through a magical portal to a peaceful garden complete with pool! Lots of extra touches.

Some of my favourite sections were the introduction to Camino boardwalks after Matosinhos; the wild beauty between Vila Prais de Áncora Castelo and Caminha; the forest tracks and vineyards between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis.

I found Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps excellent for routes and accommodation contact numbers.

 

[Aysen Mustafa]

Finished a leisurely Porto-Santiago Camino last week, staying on the Senda Litoral (SL) where possible. I am now reflecting on it and the difference between it and the Camino Frances (CF). Boardwalks, sandy paths and endless beaches featured a lot for the first two thirds. The last third was mostly forest tracks and minor roads.

The SL is very quiet in comparison to the CF, which I have done sections of over nine years. There wasn’t a backpack in sight on the first day out of Porto and it was after Matosinhos before a few stragglers appeared along the boardwalk. This grew to 25-35 peregrinos per day after Vila do Conde. Most people travelled in pairs with very few solo peregrinos. Leaving Redondela almost two weeks later was a like Sarria on steroids! The hordes of backpackers, large groups sans luggage and Spanish students on a day out took a little getting used to.

The SL is along touristy areas and the food is different to the CF – the ubiquitous ensalada mixta comes in a bowl with delicious mixture of fresh fruit and is often offered with salmon. I didn’t see any Menu del Dia but there was plenty of reasonably priced dinner options, with very generous portions and fish to die for.

I stayed in private rooms in pensións and hostels, generally booking directly the evening before. As a result I slept later and can’t comment on the early risers/plastic bag rustlers. Three hotel splurges that were well worth it!
1. Fábrica do Chocolate (Viana do Castello), a chocolate themed hotel in a former chocolate factory, based on the writings of Roald Dahl. My room had a Willy Wonka theme!
2. Occidental (Vigo), a delightful hotel in a great location, with huge room, bed and bathroom. A real treat.
3. Casa Herreria (Caldas de Reis), right on the Camino. It was like stepping through a magical portal to a peaceful garden complete with pool! Lots of extra touches.

Some of my favourite sections were the introduction to Camino boardwalks after Matosinhos; the wild beauty between Vila Prais de Áncora Castelo and Caminha; the forest tracks and vineyards between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis.

I found Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps excellent for routes and accommodation contact numbers.

I agree, I loved it. Very different to cf and yeah felt a bit guilty starting at 9.30am one morning.

 

[Rickcrna]

Wife and I completed the CP Senda Litoral route in mid-May and had a fabulous time. We averaged 10-12 miles/day carrying our packs all the way from Porto to Santiago and took 2 rest days….one in Viana do Castelo and one in Pontevedra. Like the OP, we stayed in pensions and small hotels along with one albergue in Padron. Loved the gorgeous coastline and enjoyed the countryside from Redondela onward. Weather was absolutely perfect for walking. The town of Oia was particularly enchanting. We are in the planning stages to do the Camino Frances from SJDP starting late March/early April. Walking the Camino is indeed very special and we feel fortunate and grateful to have done so.

Rick

 

[Corelacka]

Wife and I completed the CP Senda Litoral route in mid-May and had a fabulous time. We averaged 10-12 miles/day carrying our packs all the way from Porto to Santiago and took 2 rest days….one in Viana do Castelo and one in Pontevedra. Like the OP, we stayed in pensions and small hotels along with one albergue in Padron. Loved the gorgeous coastline and enjoyed the countryside from Redondela onward. Weather was absolutely perfect for walking. The town of Oia was particularly enchanting. We are in the planning stages to do the Camino Frances from SJDP starting late March/early April. Walking the Camino is indeed very special and we feel fortunate and grateful to have done so.

Rick

Sounds as magical as my Camino Rick! I too took two rest days - one early on in the lovely beach town Apúlia and the other in Pontevedra. Both were perfect in different ways. Enjoy planning your next Camino!

 

[Corelacka]

I agree, I loved it. Very different to cf and yeah felt a bit guilty starting at 9.30am one morning.

Starting after 9am was a joy after the 7am (or earlier!) starts on the CF!

 

[Aysen Mustafa]

Starting after 9am was a joy after the 7am (or earlier!) starts on the CF!

Started late as breakfast was served at 8am and then farewelling a pilgrim walking the other direction. But I didn't walk long days and except for Caminha booked accommodation the night before so not much pressure.

 

[OCHAR]

Thank you Corelacka for the info!
Did you see any pilgrims on bikes? Thanks for the Hotel tips!

 

[Corelacka]

Thank you Corelacka for the info!
Did you see any pilgrims on bikes? Thanks for the Hotel tips!

Yes, there were several perigrinos on bikes. Cycle lanes run alongside the boardwalks and Camino paths in some parts.

 

[goose03celtic19]

Finished a leisurely Porto-Santiago Camino last week, staying on the Senda Litoral (SL) where possible. I am now reflecting on it and the difference between it and the Camino Frances (CF). Boardwalks, sandy paths and endless beaches featured a lot for the first two thirds. The last third was mostly forest tracks and minor roads.

The SL is very quiet in comparison to the CF, which I have done sections of over nine years. There wasn’t a backpack in sight on the first day out of Porto and it was after Matosinhos before a few stragglers appeared along the boardwalk. This grew to 25-35 peregrinos per day after Vila do Conde. Most people travelled in pairs with very few solo peregrinos. Leaving Redondela almost two weeks later was a like Sarria on steroids! The hordes of backpackers, large groups sans luggage and Spanish students on a day out took a little getting used to.

The SL is along touristy areas and the food is different to the CF – the ubiquitous ensalada mixta comes in a bowl with delicious mixture of fresh fruit and is often offered with salmon. I didn’t see any Menu del Dia but there was plenty of reasonably priced dinner options, with very generous portions and fish to die for.

I stayed in private rooms in pensións and hostels, generally booking directly the evening before. As a result I slept later and can’t comment on the early risers/plastic bag rustlers. Three hotel splurges that were well worth it!
1. Fábrica do Chocolate (Viana do Castello), a chocolate themed hotel in a former chocolate factory, based on the writings of Roald Dahl. My room had a Willy Wonka theme!
2. Occidental (Vigo), a delightful hotel in a great location, with huge room, bed and bathroom. A real treat.
3. Casa Herreria (Caldas de Reis), right on the Camino. It was like stepping through a magical portal to a peaceful garden complete with pool! Lots of extra touches.

Some of my favourite sections were the introduction to Camino boardwalks after Matosinhos; the wild beauty between Vila Prais de Áncora Castelo and Caminha; the forest tracks and vineyards between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis.

I found Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps excellent for routes and accommodation contact numbers.

Absolutely brilliant. I’ll definitely be staying at the chocolate hotel. My favourite vice

 

[FirstSteps]

Wife and I completed the CP Senda Litoral route in mid-May and had a fabulous time. We averaged 10-12 miles/day carrying our packs all the way from Porto to Santiago and took 2 rest days….one in Viana do Castelo and one in Pontevedra. Like the OP, we stayed in pensions and small hotels along with one albergue in Padron. Loved the gorgeous coastline and enjoyed the countryside from Redondela onward. Weather was absolutely perfect for walking. The town of Oia was particularly enchanting. We are in the planning stages to do the Camino Frances from SJDP starting late March/early April. Walking the Camino is indeed very special and we feel fortunate and grateful to have done so.

Rick

I'm also looking to walk the Senda Litoral, though only from Matosinhos to Baiona. I'll be walking with my 77 year-old father and am intrigued by 10-12 mile stages. Could you suggest good stops at those distances? That would help us to book accommodations in advance. Thank you.

 

[Corelacka]

I'm also looking to walk the Senda Litoral, though only from Matosinhos to Baiona. I'll be walking with my 77 year-old father and am intrigued by 10-12 mile stages. Could you suggest good stops at those distances? That would help us to book accommodations in advance. Thank you.

Hi @FirstSteps this was my itinerary from Porto to Baoina:
Porto-Matosinhos-Villa do Condo-Apúlia-Antas-Viana do Castelo-Vila Praia de Ancora-La Guarda (water taxi from Caminha to Spain, then 5/6km walk to La Guarda)-Villadesuso-Baiona and onwards to Santiago. Some days were about 18km (except first day which was only 12km) and others up to 25km. I used both Wise Pilgrim and Buen Camino apps and these really helped with distances, route and accommodation options. I generally booked directly the day before, or in the morning, and had no difficulty finding accommodation. It’s a lovely flat route with spectacular sea views.

 

[goose03celtic19]

Finished a leisurely Porto-Santiago Camino last week, staying on the Senda Litoral (SL) where possible. I am now reflecting on it and the difference between it and the Camino Frances (CF). Boardwalks, sandy paths and endless beaches featured a lot for the first two thirds. The last third was mostly forest tracks and minor roads.

The SL is very quiet in comparison to the CF, which I have done sections of over nine years. There wasn’t a backpack in sight on the first day out of Porto and it was after Matosinhos before a few stragglers appeared along the boardwalk. This grew to 25-35 peregrinos per day after Vila do Conde. Most people travelled in pairs with very few solo peregrinos. Leaving Redondela almost two weeks later was a like Sarria on steroids! The hordes of backpackers, large groups sans luggage and Spanish students on a day out took a little getting used to.

The SL is along touristy areas and the food is different to the CF – the ubiquitous ensalada mixta comes in a bowl with delicious mixture of fresh fruit and is often offered with salmon. I didn’t see any Menu del Dia but there was plenty of reasonably priced dinner options, with very generous portions and fish to die for.

I stayed in private rooms in pensións and hostels, generally booking directly the evening before. As a result I slept later and can’t comment on the early risers/plastic bag rustlers. Three hotel splurges that were well worth it!
1. Fábrica do Chocolate (Viana do Castello), a chocolate themed hotel in a former chocolate factory, based on the writings of Roald Dahl. My room had a Willy Wonka theme!
2. Occidental (Vigo), a delightful hotel in a great location, with huge room, bed and bathroom. A real treat.
3. Casa Herreria (Caldas de Reis), right on the Camino. It was like stepping through a magical portal to a peaceful garden complete with pool! Lots of extra touches.

Some of my favourite sections were the introduction to Camino boardwalks after Matosinhos; the wild beauty between Vila Prais de Áncora Castelo and Caminha; the forest tracks and vineyards between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis.

I found Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps excellent for routes and accommodation contact numbers.

Good evening. Can I ask regarding Buen camino app and wise pilgrim

Finished a leisurely Porto-Santiago Camino last week, staying on the Senda Litoral (SL) where possible. I am now reflecting on it and the difference between it and the Camino Frances (CF). Boardwalks, sandy paths and endless beaches featured a lot for the first two thirds. The last third was mostly forest tracks and minor roads.

The SL is very quiet in comparison to the CF, which I have done sections of over nine years. There wasn’t a backpack in sight on the first day out of Porto and it was after Matosinhos before a few stragglers appeared along the boardwalk. This grew to 25-35 peregrinos per day after Vila do Conde. Most people travelled in pairs with very few solo peregrinos. Leaving Redondela almost two weeks later was a like Sarria on steroids! The hordes of backpackers, large groups sans luggage and Spanish students on a day out took a little getting used to.

The SL is along touristy areas and the food is different to the CF – the ubiquitous ensalada mixta comes in a bowl with delicious mixture of fresh fruit and is often offered with salmon. I didn’t see any Menu del Dia but there was plenty of reasonably priced dinner options, with very generous portions and fish to die for.

I stayed in private rooms in pensións and hostels, generally booking directly the evening before. As a result I slept later and can’t comment on the early risers/plastic bag rustlers. Three hotel splurges that were well worth it!
1. Fábrica do Chocolate (Viana do Castello), a chocolate themed hotel in a former chocolate factory, based on the writings of Roald Dahl. My room had a Willy Wonka theme!
2. Occidental (Vigo), a delightful hotel in a great location, with huge room, bed and bathroom. A real treat.
3. Casa Herreria (Caldas de Reis), right on the Camino. It was like stepping through a magical portal to a peaceful garden complete with pool! Lots of extra touches.

Some of my favourite sections were the introduction to Camino boardwalks after Matosinhos; the wild beauty between Vila Prais de Áncora Castelo and Caminha; the forest tracks and vineyards between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis.

I found Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps excellent for routes and accommodation contact numbers.

 

[goose03celtic19]

Good evening. Can I ask regarding Buen camino app and wise pilgrim

Oops never got to finish post. are the apps like following gps routes. For example Porto to matosinhos litoral coastal route.
Thanks Andrew

 

[David Tallan]

Oops never got to finish post. are the apps like following gps routes. For example Porto to matosinhos litoral coastal route.
Thanks Andrew

The apps will show several routes overlaid on a base map, like following GPS routes. I expect it is the same technology. They will also show where you are on the base map so you can see whether you are on or off Camino and how far you have gone/how much further you have to go.

 

[goose03celtic19]

Thank you so much
I’ll be doing it the end of June next year.
With my young niece. Is it possible to get twin rooms Etc hostel’s hotels
Andrew

 

[laurenligreci]

Thank you so much
I’ll be doing it the end of June next year.
With my young niece. Is it possible to get twin rooms Etc hostel’s hotels
Andrew

Hi Andrew! I’m planning on traveling with my then 9yo daughter and also wondering about the rooms, I’m interested in the accommodations available along the coastal route as well!

 

[jungleboy]

Oops never got to finish post. are the apps like following gps routes. For example Porto to matosinhos litoral coastal route.
Thanks Andrew

Yes they are. Here is a screenshot from Wise Pilgrim showing the SL in blue:

 

[goose03celtic19]

Yes they are. Here is a screenshot from Wise Pilgrim showing the SL in blue:

View attachment 160856

Thank you so much

 

[ElCee]

Thank you so much
I’ll be doing it the end of June next year.
With my young niece. Is it possible to get twin rooms Etc hostel’s hotels
Andrew

I walked the SL/Coastal route in October with a friend and we had no problem getting twin rooms in small hotels and guest houses. We were never able to get a private twin room in a hostel booking only a few days ahead. Twin bed rooms are much more common than in North America. In towns look for places right in the oldest part of the city. We found a few great rooms in apartments above stores or restaurants. The rooms look right out on the narrow cobble stone streets and you've got great access to little bars and restaurants. It's wonderful! Especially in Portugal, the rooms were absolutely immaculate so don't hesitate to book the cheapest places. Also, ignore ratings on booking.com and just read the comments, especially the ones from pilgrims. Many of the places we booked don't show up on booking.com right now. I assume they are closed for the winter. Don't start looking for accommodation until spring and even then just book places that you especially want. Stay loose!