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San Xil or Samos

BeatriceKarjalainen

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Finished: See post signature.
Doing: C. Levante
I have to decide very soon so help me. Is one of them more used, easier to find waymarks on etc. I prefer nature before cars but don't want to get lost :)
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
I have to decide very soon so help me. Is one of them more used, easier to find waymarks on etc. I prefer nature before cars but don't want to get lost :)
If your question is to take the diversion to Samos at Triacastela , I would advise to go to Samos, I have been that way 3 times and the other once, leading trips. if you leave from Triacastela you can catch Samos and still reach Mamede easily for dinner, or go on to Sarria
Samos is a beautifull monestary, with only 8-10 monks today. they act as tour guides. the murals are striking and architecture is classical. the albergue is OK but crowded and noisey. Howerver its the walk to Samos that's my favorite, the first 1-2 miles are down a paved road but after that its hobit city. quant trails thru ancient villages and forests and shade, the walk back to Sarria from Samos is good but not TOO special. when you reach the original Camino near Mamede the first café on the left has your first taste of the marvelous cider that Galicia produces. I believe I could walk the whole trail with nothing but the cider & yop Darrell
 
Samos, the first sight of the monastery, in the rich green valley with its sparkling river...
The route is not as ashphalted as it may appear. Following the Canada's through oak and beech forest is a joy.
 
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Definitely Samos. It is a very peaceful walk and the sight of the monastery is amazing.
 
I went the San Xil route and i had intended to go that way for about 2 weeks after hearing from a pilgrim who was doing a returnee about Casa Alchemista. The pilgrims who i met who had gone via Samos said it was one of their highlights and same went for me on the other way, it was a day of chance encounters, magical places and if the latter part of the camino is for the heart then this was the day the door opened. You will not go wrong which ever way you go, the San Xil has its charms as well.
 
I agree completely with Mike. Having gone both ways, I can say they are both great. You cannot go wrong here. The way out of Triacastela for San Xil starts out on a highway, but soon it takes you up onto ancient cart paths, it is magical. The way to Samos is also beautiful, I remember a field of lupines that knocked my socks off.

I will say that though I may be in the minority, I think the paintings on the walls of the Samos monastery are uninteresting, cliched, and not of a very high artistic quality. But the view of the monastery before you descend to Samos is fabulous and inspiring. The albergue in the monastery is damp and dank, but there are several private places to stay as well.
 
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On the route from Samos to Sarria I felt like I was in the 'mystical heart' of Galicia- perhaps like Galicia was before all we pilgrims overcrowded it. It was beautiful, and it seemed like my Celtic ancestors were glad I was walking there. I only met two other people on the route until I rejoined the main route to Sarria. There were times I wondered if I was lost- but no, I wasn't.
 
The Samos route is beautiful. There is a small amount of road walking after Triacastela ans after Samos, but then the majority is through wonderful tracks, lanes, ups and downs, lots of streams and surprising chapels and villages. The first view of Samos is also superb.

I have to agree with Peregrina 2000 though. I too thought the monastery tour was very disappointing, but then again I don't have an eye for modern wall drawings, which turned out to be the main focus of the tour.
 
I, too, have walked both routes several times; the Samos route was more direct and easier to follow and, of course, the Benedictine monastery is striking. One reason to spend the night in Samos is to attend evening vespers within the monastery. Pilgrims are escorted by a monk through the dark complex to this chapel service. Painted life size images of monks lined the corridor walls. In the dim light the mix of living and painted Benedictines all wearing black robes is most surreal!

Unfortunately the monastery albergue is EXTREMELY spartan. One huge dorm holds endless bunks and blankets; the toilets and showers are minimal. There is no common sitting space or kitchen. Nor is there heat; there never has been heat since construction in the 16th century! If you stay bundle up!!

Margaret Meredith
 
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The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
Another vote for Samos here, I have walked both, but the route over Samos is by far my favorite one. If you are there try to see the mozarabe Cypress Chapel from the 9th century. Buen Camino, SY
 
I have to decide very soon so help me. Is one of them more used, easier to find waymarks on etc. I prefer nature before cars but don't want to get lost :)

If I would not stay overnight in Samos so definitely San Xil. Very scenic, rural and beautiful. Less traffic.
 
I loved Samos - I met only one person on the walk in and no one the next day for kms and kms of magical walking on the way out. Vepsers was great and I even liked the albergue! A great hospitalerio while I was there, who made up for the lack of heating with the warmth of his welcome and the real interest and care he showed to those who stayed!
 
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I loved Samos - I met only one person on the walk in and no one the next day for kms and kms of magical walking on the way out. Vepsers was great and I even liked the albergue! A great hospitalerio while I was there, who made up for the lack of heating with the warmth of his welcome and the real interest and care he showed to those who stayed!

That is what I mean. Samos is not complete if you do not stay at the Albergue with the most welcoming and warm atmosphere. Hot showers, bunk beds and the murals. Gregorian vespers in the cloisters and a very special evening mass. Before you are finished you have to go a tour in the monastery with a guide and see all the mural paintings.

Buen Camino !
 
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Thanks for your help. I stayed in Samos in the monastery albergue. A tip take bed 2 and you will have power outlet next to your bed :) I had the monastery guided tour but misses vesper due to hunger. My stomach has been a little if a problem since Carrion de los Condés and when I felt hunger for the first time in days I had to go and eat instead of going to church. I was almost fainting during the guided tour :-/
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

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