Senda Litoral

[Stacyv]

Anyone have any advice on walking the senda litoral from Viana do Castelo and Caminha?
Is it worth coming off the coastal route which so far does not seem that coastal. I’m heading out of Viana in the morning.

 

[jsalt]

Anyone have any advice on walking the senda litoral from Viana do Castelo and Caminha?
Is it worth coming off the coastal route which so far does not seem that coastal. I’m heading out of Viana in the morning.

Hi, Viana do Castelo to Caminha is a lovely walk along the Senda Litoral.

From Viana head down Av do Atlantico to Praia do Norte, and you’re at the coast again.

There is no path next to the sea between Praia de Fornelos and Praia de Afife (for about 5kms) – the yellow arrows take you inland, over the hill, and through agricultural fields – but they do take you back to the sea again.

The boardwalk has been washed away by storms just before you get to Vila Praia de Ancora. When you get to Forte do Cao (there’s a nice restaurant just beyond, Restaurante Camarao), you have a decision to make. The easy option is to take the road route out (Rua da Gelfa) to the main road (N-13), cross the river, turn left at the roundabout, go under the railway, and continue into the town. However, this adds another 2kms of walking, and is very unpleasant alongside the heavy traffic on the busy N-13. The second option is to walk on paths and tracks through the pine forests to the Sports Stadium (“Estadio”). From there turn right and follow Rua de Aguas to the N-13, and turn left to cross the river as above. Or, the third option, is to turn left at the Sports Stadium and head for the beach. This will involve about 200m of seriously soft sand, before climbing up to the boardwalk, which will then take you onto the pedestrian bridge and directly into town.

About 4kms after Vila Praia de Ancora the arrows point you right, under the railway line. Don’t go right, but stay between the sea and the railway line. At the end of the residential area you turn right, then immediately left, onto a small path into the pine forests. When you reach the beach again there is a bar / restaurant in a fabulous location overlooking the sea and across to Spain, which you will miss if you stay on the official route. From the bar you just stay next to the sea all the way to the ferry in Caminha.

Bom caminho!
Jill

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Wow, Jill, what great details you've given. I recently purchased Brierley's guide on the Portuguese route, and in taking a quick overlook the other day, noticed he said the senda litoral is for very experienced walkers, so it's sort of "put me off" for now, assuming it is too difficult. I've walked four long distance caminos, but not sure I would be able to tackle this coastal section. What is your opinion based on your own experience. Obviously you managed and lived to tell about it. Lol.

 

[jsalt]

I recently purchased Brierley's guide on the Portuguese route, and in taking a quick overlook the other day, noticed he said the senda litoral is for very experienced walkers

The Senda Litoral is easy and flat, no worries! Just stay with the yellow arrows and you will be fine.

Brierley is probably referring to the stage between Esposende and Viana do Castelo. The boardwalks are still under construction in many places, and if you try and stay next to the sea between those two towns (and a few others) you will occasionally find that after a few kms the boardwalk, or path, comes to an abrupt end and dumps you in the middle of a sand dune.

Experienced hikers with GPS or good detailed maps, who don’t mind wading across the occasional deep wide stream, or ploughing through thick soft sand, can get through. If you are not an experienced hiker, and find yourself in this situation, then backtrack to where you deviated away from the marked route, which may be a few kms back.
Jill

 

[Stacyv]

Thanks for you post Jill. I walked the senda litoral route today to Caminha. It was easy and far nicer than the alternative. There were no areas that needed avoiding. The boardwalk is down in one section, but it was only 100mtrs of sand to reconnect. I highly recommend this route

 

[jsalt]

I highly recommend this route

How did you get from Forte do Cao to Vila Praia de Ancora? Via the beach? Or the N13? I will be there again in a couple of weeks time, and after lunch at Restaurant Camarao , will have to decide which route to take. Just wondering what the current situation is like.
Jill

 

[Stacyv]

We walked a mix of paths next to brush and beach. Didn’t head inland until Túnel. Only had 100 mtrs of sand before Áncora. Worked well

 

[jsalt]

We walked a mix of paths next to brush and beach. Didn’t head inland until Túnel. Only had 100 mtrs of sand before Áncora. Worked well

Where is Túnel?

 

[Stacyv]

It the tunnel under the railway just prior to Moleda. You can stay on the senda, but we were after coffee so headed inland at that point

 

[jsalt]

Great, thanks for the updates. By the time my friends and I have had a long, leisurely lunch it will be low tide, and hopefully we’ll find some hard sand at the water’s edge, so we can get to Praia de Ancora quite easily via the beach .
Jill

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Jill, I plan to walk the Fisherman's Way and then the Portuguese camino next spring. Since you have already walked these routes in the not too distant past, I assume you really like the Portuguese route a lot to be repeating it again. It's encouraging news as the Portuguese often seems to get mixed reviews.

 

[jsalt]

Jill, I plan to walk the Fisherman's Way and then the Portuguese camino next spring. Since you have already walked these routes in the not too distant past, I assume you really like the Portuguese route a lot to be repeating it again. It's encouraging news as the Portuguese often seems to get mixed reviews.

Hi Chris, I like the Portuguese people – that’s why I keep going back. I think it’s only the Lisbon to Porto section that gets the iffy reviews. I don’t walk for the scenery; so what other people find boring, I find different. There is so much more to experience on a long walk (a pilgrimage) than admiring the scenery. If that’s all one wants on the Camino Portugués, then don’t walk from Lisbon to Porto. I can walk for miles looking inwards rather than outwards, and those “boring” sections are great for that. Stop and really explore the historical and interesting places along the route – like the tile museum, which most people walk past without even noticing, and the magnificent Roman mosaic floors at Conimbriga. Spend a couple of hours over lunch with the locals in a workers’ canteen, and feel humbled by their sincere and honest welcome. I love Portugal. It is so so different from Spain, if one only tries to get to know it, instead of looking at the scenery and complaining because it’s “boring”.
Jill

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thanks, Jill, for responding with your thoughts and ideas. I think I will get along just fine on this route!

 

[Donovan]

Hi, Viana do Castelo to Caminha is a lovely walk along the Senda Litoral.

From Viana head down Av do Atlantico to Praia do Norte, and you’re at the coast again.

There is no path next to the sea between Praia de Fornelos and Praia de Afife (for about 5kms) – the yellow arrows take you inland, over the hill, and through agricultural fields – but they do take you back to the sea again.

Jill

Jill, You can get onto the beach at Praia da Arda, next to the Arda Surf School. The couple of km to Praia de Afife was on nice firm sand.

 

[Donovan]

Hi, Viana do Castelo to Caminha is a lovely walk along the Senda Litoral.


About 4kms after Vila Praia de Ancora the arrows point you right, under the railway line. Don’t go right, but stay between the sea and the railway line. At the end of the residential area you turn right, then immediately left, onto a small path into the pine forests. When you reach the beach again there is a bar / restaurant in a fabulous location overlooking the sea and across to Spain, which you will miss if you stay on the official route. From the bar you just stay next to the sea all the way to the ferry in Caminha.

Bom caminho!
Jill

Jill, at the restaurant/beach you can ask for Mario who will take you across the river in his small boat. He dropped us on the south end of the peninsula, from where it was a nice walk up the west side of the peninsula into A Guarda. There were two of us - €5 each.
Donovan

 

[jsalt]

Jill, You can get onto the beach at Praia da Arda, next to the Arda Surf School. The couple of km to Praia de Afife was on nice firm sand.

That’s great, thanks, good to know! I will definitely do that when I am on my own again. I am leading a group of 15 in about a week’s time, so we’ll stay with the yellow arrows on this upcoming trip.
Jill

 

[jsalt]

Jill, at the restaurant/beach you can ask for Mario who will take you across the river in his small boat. He dropped us on the south end of the peninsula, from where it was a nice walk up the east side of the peninsula into A Guarda. There were two of us - €5 each.
DonovanView attachment 46047

Thanks, yes, I know about Mario! Very useful chap when the ferry’s not running. However, with 15 of us, we’ll definitely be heading for the ferry this time.
Jill

 

[AdHuizing]

Anyone have any advice on walking the senda litoral from Viana do Castelo and Caminha?
Is it worth coming off the coastal route which so far does not seem that coastal. I’m heading out of Viana in the morning.

And?
Follow the Litoral and you miss both the Coastel and the Interior. Take the Coastal and you miss the Litoral.
But that's life isn't it?! Bom Caminho

 

[Elizabeth Worley]

Hi Chris, I like the Portuguese people – that’s why I keep going back. I think it’s only the Lisbon to Porto section that gets the iffy reviews. I don’t walk for the scenery; so what other people find boring, I find different. There is so much more to experience on a long walk (a pilgrimage) than admiring the scenery. If that’s all one wants on the Camino Portugués, then don’t walk from Lisbon to Porto. I can walk for miles looking inwards rather than outwards, and those “boring” sections are great for that. Stop and really explore the historical and interesting places along the route – like the tile museum, which most people walk past without even noticing, and the magnificent Roman mosaic floors at Conimbriga. Spend a couple of hours over lunch with the locals in a workers’ canteen, and feel humbled by their sincere and honest welcome. I love Portugal. It is so so different from Spain, if one only tries to get to know it, instead of looking at the scenery and complaining because it’s “boring”.
Jill

Thank you so much for this. My partner and I walked the Frances in 2016. Yesterday we bought our tickets to walk the Portuguese beginning May 1, 2019. Have been very intrigued by the Senda Litoral, but there are few really good maps. Your directions are terrific. Also, the comments on walking while looking inward (as well as outward) -- our lives are still manifesting the inward visions we had on the Frances! Buen Camino.

 

[pelerine]

How about going on the litoral to Caminha only and then along the river Minho on the bicycle track to Valenca, across to Tui etc. ?

It is a lovely walk and you avoid the urban areas around Vigo.

Bom caminho!

 

[Ankied]

My husband ,son and I are doing the Senda Litoral starting Sept19.We have done the Frances Camino two yeas ago and found hostels and auberges really easy to find.However with the Senda Litoral I’m not finding many options for this kind of accommodation.We really don’t want to stay at hotels.Anyone have some great suggestions of where to find a complete list of auberges and hostels along this toute.
I have the yellow shell premium app and John Brierly’s guide book but it ‘s confusing at that where to locate all my options.
I know from experience that by the end of the day when exhausted finding the hostel/auberge places can be tricky and confusing.
Any suggestions for good maps/phone GPS maps without needing internet?
We will have our phones on I Plane mode to avoid roaming charges.We will have an extra phone with Portugeuse sim cards to call locally.
Buen Camino,Anna

 

[Sheena]

My husband ,son and I are doing the Senda Litoral starting Sept19.We have done the Frances Camino two yeas ago and found hostels and auberges really easy to find.However with the Senda Litoral I’m not finding many options for this kind of accommodation.We really don’t want to stay at hotels.Anyone have some great suggestions of where to find a complete list of auberges and hostels along this toute.
I have the yellow shell premium app and John Brierly’s guide book but it ‘s confusing at that where to locate all my options.
I know from experience that by the end of the day when exhausted finding the hostel/auberge places can be tricky and confusing.
Any suggestions for good maps/phone GPS maps without needing internet?
We will have our phones on I Plane mode to avoid roaming charges.We will have an extra phone with Portugeuse sim cards to call locally.
Buen Camino,Anna

Hi.
There are downloadable files on this site with a huge lists of accommodations for several Caminos.
When we were walking the Senda in May, we also downloaded the maps.me app and then the kmz file, also on here. Maps.me works by GPS, so no need for the internet while you’re using it.
Most accommodation in Portugal has free WiFi, so easy to use at night!
Wishing you well on your Caminho!
Sheena

 

[Ankied]

Thanks so much Sheena.I will follow your advice!
Take care Anna

 

[Ankied]

Any suggestions on how to travel best ftom Lisbon to Porto by plane/train or bus?

 

[Stacyv]

There are lots of pensions and hostels on Booking.com. I’m in Redondela currently and so far had no problem with accommodation. I book one day out after I’ve decided my next destination. I’ve walked the senda litoral on all the days it’s available. Only day I missed was coming out of Porto. I think that would have been a much better option. It’s very different from the Frances but very enjoyable.

 

[Geoff1951]

Hi Chris, I like the Portuguese people – that’s why I keep going back. I think it’s only the Lisbon to Porto section that gets the iffy reviews. I don’t walk for the scenery; so what other people find boring, I find different. There is so much more to experience on a long walk (a pilgrimage) than admiring the scenery. If that’s all one wants on the Camino Portugués, then don’t walk from Lisbon to Porto. I can walk for miles looking inwards rather than outwards, and those “boring” sections are great for that. Stop and really explore the historical and interesting places along the route – like the tile museum, which most people walk past without even noticing, and the magnificent Roman mosaic floors at Conimbriga. Spend a couple of hours over lunch with the locals in a workers’ canteen, and feel humbled by their sincere and honest welcome. I love Portugal. It is so so different from Spain, if one only tries to get to know it, instead of looking at the scenery and complaining because it’s “boring”.
Jill

Thanks for your very descriptive reply to Chris. We are walking the Portuguese from Lisbon in late April 2019 and were becoming worried about some comments that I had read and the fact that most people seem to avoid the section from Lisbon to Porto. Your words have reasured me that we will enjoy it. Thanks.

 

[AggieWM]

Hi.
There are downloadable files on this site with a huge lists of accommodations for several Caminos.
When we were walking the Senda in May, we also downloaded the maps.me app and then the kmz file, also on here. Maps.me works by GPS, so no need for the internet while you’re using it.
Most accommodation in Portugal has free WiFi, so easy to use at night!
Wishing you well on your Caminho!
Sheena

Thank you so much, Sheena. I just did it. Agatha

 

[loumura]

The Senda Litoral is easy and flat, no worries! Just stay with the yellow arrows and you will be fine.

Brierley is probably referring to the stage between Esposende and Viana do Castelo. The boardwalks are still under construction in many places, and if you try and stay next to the sea between those two towns (and a few others) you will occasionally find that after a few kms the boardwalk, or path, comes to an abrupt end and dumps you in the middle of a sand dune.

Experienced hikers with GPS or good detailed maps, who don’t mind wading across the occasional deep wide stream, or ploughing through thick soft sand, can get through. If you are not an experienced hiker, and find yourself in this situation, then backtrack to where you deviated away from the marked route, which may be a few kms back.
Jill

Jill, thanks for the details! But from what you said, I'm thinking my husband and I better not do the Litoral because we are doing it in March of 2019 and this is still winter. I'm thinking the coast might be worse weather? What is your opinion on us trying to do the coastal until we reach Tui or somewhere near it and then cross over to the central trail? I guess my question is, should we do the central camino from Porto to Santiago or the coastal from Porto until Tui and then do the rest of the camino following the central trail to Santiago? I am now very confused and worried that the winter weather in March may not be a good time to do any of the coastal route? Please advise!

 

[jsalt]

Jill, thanks for the details! But from what you said, I'm thinking my husband and I better not do the Litoral because we are doing it in March of 2019 and this is still winter. I'm thinking the coast might be worse weather? What is your opinion on us trying to do the coastal until we reach Tui or somewhere near it and then cross over to the central trail? I guess my question is, should we do the central camino from Porto to Santiago or the coastal from Porto until Tui and then do the rest of the camino following the central trail to Santiago? I am now very confused and worried that the winter weather in March may not be a good time to do any of the coastal route? Please advise!

Hi, so sorry for not responding earlier. Apart from a couple of postings while I was away (the last 7 weeks) I tend to disconnect and go offline while on camino.

In reply to your query about the coastal or the central route in March, then I would suggest you let the weather decide for you. If it’s good, then walk up the coast, if it’s bad, stay inland. At that time of the year it’s good to know what places are actually open, but it’s not necessary to book ahead. Or ask your current place to book the next one for you, as you go along. That will give you a lot more flexibility than trying to decide now what the weather will be in March. Hope that helps.
Jill

 

[loumura]

Hi, so sorry for not responding earlier. Apart from a couple of postings while I was away (the last 7 weeks) I tend to disconnect and go offline while on camino.

In reply to your query about the coastal or the central route in March, then I would suggest you let the weather decide for you. If it’s good, then walk up the coast, if it’s bad, stay inland. At that time of the year it’s good to know what places are actually open, but it’s not necessary to book ahead. Or ask your current place to book the next one for you, as you go along. That will give you a lot more flexibility than trying to decide now what the weather will be in March. Hope that helps.
Jill

Yes!Your response actually confirmed our decision recently to do just that! We will start on the coastal and at any point the weather is too windy/rainy, we will move central. We won't book ahead but rather choose along the way depending on how far we can walk each day. Thank you so much!

 

[berliet]

Hello everybody,
I am planning to start the Senda Littoral end of september 2020 and I would need some advice.
I am impressed by the amount of available info floating in the web and the genuine effort and passion put by pilgrims in providing tips, maps, details and the likes.
At the same time, I must confess that this is way too much for my capability to filter the essential, too much info is too little info, I am confused by the informative (and often not clear layout and narrative) flood of info.
Do you know if there is a clear, concise and possibly updated guide/blog
on the Senda Litoral? English, French, Spanish or Portuguese will do fine.
Thanks a lot

 

[trecile]

I like @Elle Bieling's site.

The Many Ways on the Camino Portugues

The Camino Portugues or the The Portuguese Way is not a single route, but offers the pilgrimage traveler many options.

www.pilgrimagetraveler.com

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I like @Elle Bieling's site.

The Many Ways on the Camino Portugues

The Camino Portugues or the The Portuguese Way is not a single route, but offers the pilgrimage traveler many options.

www.pilgrimagetraveler.com

Yes, I think Elle's website is great. I've read her reports when I was planning to walk the same route/s and have appreciated her input and advice.

 

[trecile]

Hello everybody,
I am planning to start the Senda Littoral end of september 2020 and I would need some advice.
I am impressed by the amount of available info floating in the web and the genuine effort and passion put by pilgrims in providing tips, maps, details and the likes.
At the same time, I must confess that this is way too much for my capability to filter the essential, too much info is too little info, I am confused by the informative (and often not clear layout and narrative) flood of info.
Do you know if there is a clear, concise and possibly updated guide/blog
on the Senda Litoral? English, French, Spanish or Portuguese will do fine.
Thanks a lot

I would also suggest that you start a new thread. It will get more attention and be more relevant to what the Camino is like now.