Side trips: Yuso, Suso, Sto Domingo de Silos


2018 edition Camino Guides
Camino(s) past & future
2013 (Pamplona to Burgos)
2014 (Burgos to Villafranca del Bierzo)
2015 (Villafranca to Santiago)
2016 (Le Puy to Conques; SJPP To Pamplona)
#1
Last month I did these side trips to take a break from walking. I left Najera by bus at 1.30; a 20 min drive through several small villages. I visited Yuso (new monastery) later that afternoon. Next morning I took the guided tour at 9.30 up to Suso (old monastery). Later I took a taxi back to the Camino at Sto Domingo de la Calzada for 42 Euros. (The alternative was to waste an afternoon waiting for the bus back to Najera).
For Sto Domingo de Silos (home of the Gregorian Chant) I took a bus from Burgos at 5.30 pm. The bus took 1 hr and 20 mins, partly through small mountain villages on twisty roads. I arrived at Silos with only 10 mins to spare before Vespers at 7.00 pm. which was lovely. To visit the monastery, I was hoping for the regular guided tour at 10.00 am next morning. But it was the Feast of the Virgin of Pilar, so the tour was rescheduled to 12.00. However, there was a special mass at 11.00 with lots more Gregorian Chant singing and the monks all dressed in white instead of their normal black robes. After lunch I took a taxi to Lerma, another interesting historic town, and stayed the night, taking a bus back to Burgos next morning. There are more buses to and from Lerma than Silos.
 

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peregrina2000

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#2
Hi Margaret,

Great suggestions.

I know that a lot of peregrinos don't want to break from the routine, or from the "family" or are on fixed schedules, but for those who are open to it, I agree with you that it's well worth it to take an occasional detour. There are so many jewels within a short distance of the line we walk from one side of the peninsula to the other.

Santo Domingo de Silos is probably the most popular side trip off the Francés from Burgos. Your idea about adding on Lerma is a good one, and of course those who want to just keep on walking can return to Burgos from Santo Domingo on the Camino San Olav, which is itself chock full of great vistas, ancient churches, and the prettied up town of Covarrubias.
 

VNwalking

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Camino(s) past & future
Francés (2014, 2015)
St Olav/Francés (2016)
Baztanés/Francés (2017)
Ingles (July 2018)
#3
of course those who want to just keep on walking can return to Burgos from Santo Domingo on the Camino San Olav, which is itself chock full of great vistas, ancient churches, and the prettied up town of Covarrubias.
You took the words right out of my mouth@peregrina 2000...indeed, this route is a real gem and so accessible from the Frances. You can bus to SDdS and walk back, or create a (roughly 6 day) loop with the Ruta de Lana, the San Olav, the GR82, and El Cid.

Likewise, it's possible to walk to Yuso/Suso from the Frances - some Irish pilgrims I'd been seeing mysteriously disappeared for several days and I thought they'd gone home. But no. They had walked, leaving and rejoining the CF. They said it was fantastic.
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Camino Francais 2013 Finnestere, Muxia 2013, 2017
Norte 2014, Francais, 2015, 2016, VDLP 2017
#4
Last month I did these side trips to take a break from walking. I left Najera by bus at 1.30; a 20 min drive through several small villages. I visited Yuso (new monastery) later that afternoon. Next morning I took the guided tour at 9.30 up to Suso (old monastery). Later I took a taxi back to the Camino at Sto Domingo de la Calzada for 42 Euros. (The alternative was to waste an afternoon waiting for the bus back to Najera).
For Sto Domingo de Silos (home of the Gregorian Chant) I took a bus from Burgos at 5.30 pm. The bus took 1 hr and 20 mins, partly through small mountain villages on twisty roads. I arrived at Silos with only 10 mins to spare before Vespers at 7.00 pm. which was lovely. To visit the monastery, I was hoping for the regular guided tour at 10.00 am next morning. But it was the Feast of the Virgin of Pilar, so the tour was rescheduled to 12.00. However, there was a special mass at 11.00 with lots more Gregorian Chant singing and the monks all dressed in white instead of their normal black robes. After lunch I took a taxi to Lerma, another interesting historic town, and stayed the night, taking a bus back to Burgos next morning. There are more buses to and from Lerma than Silos.
Last month I did these side trips to take a break from walking. I left Najera by bus at 1.30; a 20 min drive through several small villages. I visited Yuso (new monastery) later that afternoon. Next morning I took the guided tour at 9.30 up to Suso (old monastery). Later I took a taxi back to the Camino at Sto Domingo de la Calzada for 42 Euros. (The alternative was to waste an afternoon waiting for the bus back to Najera).
For Sto Domingo de Silos (home of the Gregorian Chant) I took a bus from Burgos at 5.30 pm. The bus took 1 hr and 20 mins, partly through small mountain villages on twisty roads. I arrived at Silos with only 10 mins to spare before Vespers at 7.00 pm. which was lovely. To visit the monastery, I was hoping for the regular guided tour at 10.00 am next morning. But it was the Feast of the Virgin of Pilar, so the tour was rescheduled to 12.00. However, there was a special mass at 11.00 with lots more Gregorian Chant singing and the monks all dressed in white instead of their normal black robes. After lunch I took a taxi to Lerma, another interesting historic town, and stayed the night, taking a bus back to Burgos next morning. There are more buses to and from Lerma than Silos.
Last month I did these side trips to take a break from walking. I left Najera by bus at 1.30; a 20 min drive through several small villages. I visited Yuso (new monastery) later that afternoon. Next morning I took the guided tour at 9.30 up to Suso (old monastery). Later I took a taxi back to the Camino at Sto Domingo de la Calzada for 42 Euros. (The alternative was to waste an afternoon waiting for the bus back to Najera).
For Sto Domingo de Silos (home of the Gregorian Chant) I took a bus from Burgos at 5.30 pm. The bus took 1 hr and 20 mins, partly through small mountain villages on twisty roads. I arrived at Silos with only 10 mins to spare before Vespers at 7.00 pm. which was lovely. To visit the monastery, I was hoping for the regular guided tour at 10.00 am next morning. But it was the Feast of the Virgin of Pilar, so the tour was rescheduled to 12.00. However, there was a special mass at 11.00 with lots more Gregorian Chant singing and the monks all dressed in white instead of their normal black robes. After lunch I took a taxi to Lerma, another interesting historic town, and stayed the night, taking a bus back to Burgos next morning. There are more buses to and from Lerma than Silos.
Last month I did these side trips to take a break from walking. I left Najera by bus at 1.30; a 20 min drive through several small villages. I visited Yuso (new monastery) later that afternoon. Next morning I took the guided tour at 9.30 up to Suso (old monastery). Later I took a taxi back to the Camino at Sto Domingo de la Calzada for 42 Euros. (The alternative was to waste an afternoon waiting for the bus back to Najera).
For Sto Domingo de Silos (home of the Gregorian Chant) I took a bus from Burgos at 5.30 pm. The bus took 1 hr and 20 mins, partly through small mountain villages on twisty roads. I arrived at Silos with only 10 mins to spare before Vespers at 7.00 pm. which was lovely. To visit the monastery, I was hoping for the regular guided tour at 10.00 am next morning. But it was the Feast of the Virgin of Pilar, so the tour was rescheduled to 12.00. However, there was a special mass at 11.00 with lots more Gregorian Chant singing and the monks all dressed in white instead of their normal black robes. After lunch I took a taxi to Lerma, another interesting historic town, and stayed the night, taking a bus back to Burgos next morning. There are more buses to and from Lerma than Silos.
I walked from Azofra to Yuso and Suso via Canas with a stop and tour from the Priest at
The splendid Cistercian abbey of Santa Maria at 7.30 in the morning. I felt so lucky.
I walked on to the village near the Yuso Monastery where I had coffee. The owners offered to watch my backpack whilst I visited the monasteries. After visiting the amazing monasteries I walked back to the coffee shop picked up my backpack and headed along the road to Santo Domingo. I had my thongs on by the time I arrived into SD but the pain was well worth the visit to the monasteries. I will never forget that day it was wonderful.
 

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