LIVE from the Camino SJPdP “Completo” tonight!

[Vacajoe]

Just an FYI that all available beds are taken in SJPDP tonight - fully, truly COMPLETO! There’s an indication of how busy this year may be since it’s just a Wednesday in late April, not usually considered a busy time for the CF. Cold weather over the Route Napoleon may be backing up some pilgrims, too. Over two dozen pilgrims have been given mats and a floor to sleep on in a municipal building, so the statement, “No pilgrim sleeps on the street in St Jean” remains true, but a hard floor is not so great either.

 

[Pafayac]

in late April, not usually considered a busy time for the CF.

In SJPP, are you sure ?

 

[trecile]

in late April, not usually considered a busy time for the CF

I agree with @Pafayac - late April is the lead up to one of the busiest times in SJPdP, which is the beginning of May. Last year April was the 3rd busiest months after May and September.

 

[Kathar1na]

Late April / beginning of May is known as one of the busiest times of the pilgrimage season in SJPP, Roncesvalles and Pamplona, and demand for beds (both private and municipal etc) can outstrip supply.

This will now continue, especially on this weekend and during the coming week (1st of May week).

I posted a week ago that booking demand for the Roncesvalles albergue will be very high from now on for at least the next 10 days - one can see it on their website.

 

[Vacajoe]

Usually late April is busy because of its proximity to the busy Easter season. This year the holiday came very early, so these are increased non-holiday crowds. Yes, April can be busy, but artificially so based on the Semana Santa walkers. Remove THAT week from the statistics and it’s not as busy as the other weeks in April. I’ve volunteered worked, walked, or worked AND walked in April every year since 2018 (except Covid) and am quite aware of the usual April crowd issues. THIS is unusual.

 

[Vacajoe]

In SJPP, are you sure ?

Yes. That came straight from the Pilgrim’s Office.

 

[Kathar1na]

I’ve volunteered worked, walked, or worked AND walked in April every year since 2018 (except Covid) and am quite aware of the usual April crowd issues.

Sure, Semana Santa and the Easter weekend, both variable. But did you volunteer work, walk or work AND walk at the end of April every year since 2018 between SJPP and Pamplona, and especially in the Roncesvalles albergue ?

These high numbers and the discrepancy between supply and demand for beds around the beginning of May are a localised phenomenon, it does not apply to the whole trail after Pamplona, and it will be over soon.

 

[Anhalter]

Honestly, with the holy year being over and easter being a month ago, i did not expect the same business this time as we seen in the last (two) years.
I can only speculate what has lead to this.

 

[Kathar1na]

Honestly, with the holy year being over and easter being a month ago, i did not expect the same business this time as we seen in the last (two) years. I can only speculate what has lead to this.

The Holy Years had very little effect on pilgrim numbers in Navarra, i.e. Roncesvalles in Spain and SJPP in France. Numbers of travellers are continuously on the increase to many popular destinations - and that includes the "slow travel" trend. Due to lots of leisure time that can be used for travelling and related activities and lots of disposable income.

 

[Bradypus]

The Holy Years had very little effect on pilgrim numbers in Navarra, i.e. Roncesvalles in Spain and SJPP in France. Numbers of travellers are continuously on the increase to many popular destinations. Lots of leisure time and lots of disposable income.

Honestly, with the holy year being over and easter being a month ago, i did not expect the same business this time as we seen in the last (two) years.
I can only speculate what has lead to this.

I think @Kathar1na is right in saying that Holy Years have relatively little effect on the numbers walking from Navarra. The surge in numbers during Holy Years tends to be closer to Santiago with people walking shorter routes. The growth overall on the Caminos has been fairly continuous since the active revival of the Camino Frances in the 1980s. With temporary spikes during Holy Years. Difficult to interpret the pattern of numbers overall in the past few years because of the effects of Covid on travel for several years. It does seem fairly clear that Holy Years no longer have the massive impact that they once did - Compostela numbers for the 1993 Holy Year were ten times those of the previous year but dropped back again the following year. The Holy Year spike in numbers is far less obvious now in the very large background noise.

The comparatively early date of Easter this year may have brought a slightly earlier start to the main pilgrim 'season'. Possibly moving the expected peak in numbers by a couple of weeks. The statistics for arrivals in Santiago show that this year's running total is currently 19% above the same point last year. The SJPDP office does not seem to have published their own figures so far this year so it is hard to say whether numbers at the eastern end of the Camino Frances are also up on last year. I have seen a couple of news items from websites in Leon within the past couple of days which report that numbers being recorded there are now back to pre-pandemic levels.

 

[Kathar1na]

Above is the graph for the number of pilgrims by year as counted in Santiago, especially from 1996 to 2023 and showing the peak in numbers in the Holy Years 1999, 2004 and 2010.

Below is the corresponding graph for the number of pilgrims by year as counted in SJPP. No peaks during Holy Years and in fact a flattening of the graph during the last decade.

 

[Monasp]

Above is the graph for the number of pilgrims by year as counted in Santiago, especially from 1996 to 2023 and showing the peak in numbers in the Holy Years 1999, 2004 and 2010.

Below is the corresponding graph for the number of pilgrims by year as counted in SJPP. No peaks during Holy Years and in fact a flattening of the graph during the last decade.

View attachment 168637

It's good to have statistics, but you should give the source. Thanks

 

[Kathar1na]

It's good to have statistics, but you should give the source. Thanks

@Monasp, yes, you are right and please accept my apologies. I had meant to write that the graph is taken from a pdf file and with the mention: "Responsable statistiques : Monique Aspirot".

I had already started my spreadsheet app and was about to type the numbers from @trecile's table in post #3 into it to produce a graph when I noticed it. And it is even better than this table because it covers the period from 1996 to 2023 and not just 2012 to 2023.

Thank you for making these data about pilgrim numbers by year in SJPP available online.

 

[Monasp]

I agree with @Pafayac - late April is the lead up to one of the busiest times in SJPdP, which is the beginning of May. Last year April was the 3rd busiest months after May and September.

View attachment 168625

Please provide the source of the statistics

 

[JabbaPapa]

Late April to early May, and September generally, are pretty much the busiest periods in SJPP.

Because *everyone* is "avoiding the crowds" ...

 

[Charte57]

I’m in Los Arcos right now, everything is full. I’m having to reserve a few days ahead if I want to go with the main stages. So much for spontaneity. Santiago is also booked up over a month out unless you want to spend over 200 euros a night, I have no idea when I’ll get there so I have two reservations.

 

[VNwalking]

I’m having to reserve a few days ahead if I want to go with the main stages. So much for spontaneity.

Why not stay between guide book stages?

 

[Tincatinker]

I’m in Los Arcos right now, everything is full. I’m having to reserve a few days ahead if I want to go with the main stages. So much for spontaneity. Santiago is also booked up over a month out unless you want to spend over 200 euros a night, I have no idea when I’ll get there so I have two reservations.

Are you saying that you have two reservations in Santiago and that you have no idea whether you will use them?

Perhaps, if a few hundred others have done the same the fact that Santiago is “booked out” is explained

 

[Tschempi]

Just an FYI that all available beds are taken in SJPDP tonight - fully, truly COMPLETO! There’s an indication of how busy this year may be since it’s just a Wednesday in late April, not usually considered a busy time for the CF. Cold weather over the Route Napoleon may be backing up some pilgrims, too. Over two dozen pilgrims have been given mats and a floor to sleep on in a municipal building, so the statement, “No pilgrim sleeps on the street in St Jean” remains true, but a hard floor is not so great either.

This was the same last year. Same time all the the places were full on the full length of the Camino See all my posts . It seems that the Camino Frances becomes more and more famous. Last yearl it was a daily bed race …. Eventually I booked all the my place in advance . Buen Camino

 

[DebR]

This was the same last year. Same time all the the places were full on the full length of the Camino See all my posts . It seems that the Camino Frances becomes more and more famous. Last yearl it was a daily bed race …. Eventually I booked all the my place in advance . Buen Camino

Yes. I was also walking this time last year, and saw the very same conditions you are describing. I hope some of the armchair folk who repeatedly dismissed me (and the individual who repeatedly gaslit my reports and called me a catastrophist and a liar) are more open to the on the ground reports this season.
Things are changing; that’s to be expected. By listening we can all learn.

 

[backpack45]

Just an FYI that all available beds are taken in SJPDP tonight - fully, truly COMPLETO! There’s an indication of how busy this year may be since it’s just a Wednesday in late April, not usually considered a busy time for the CF. Cold weather over the Route Napoleon may be backing up some pilgrims, too. Over two dozen pilgrims have been given mats and a floor to sleep on in a municipal building, so the statement, “No pilgrim sleeps on the street in St Jean” remains true, but a hard floor is not so great either.

Just an FYI that all available beds are taken in SJPDP tonight - fully, truly COMPLETO! There’s an indication of how busy this year may be since it’s just a Wednesday in late April, not usually considered a busy time for the CF. Cold weather over the Route Napoleon may be backing up some pilgrims, too. Over two dozen pilgrims have been given mats and a floor to sleep on in a municipal building, so the statement, “No pilgrim sleeps on the street in St Jean” remains true, but a hard floor is not so great either.

Wow, reminds me of my first night on a Camino hike--arriving at Roncesvalles (back in 2001) and finding all the beds in the (former hostel) were full. We eventually found mats (in two different rooms) where a few people moved their mats on the floor so I could put down my sleeping bag. Other than the stress of not expecting this crowding, it all worked out. I was sure glad we had sleeping bags. There was another time further on where we were given mats for the floor and were glad to have them. This is one of the main reasons that I have always recommended that people bring sleeping bags or quilts.

 

[good_old_shoes]

Over two dozen pilgrims have been given mats and a floor to sleep on in a municipal building

Good to hear that the town is so kind to provide shelter for the stranded pilgrims!

Also, a good example why bringing a warm sleeping bag and maybe even a lightweight sleeping mat might still be a good idea... You never know for sure where you'll end up sleeping!

 

[David Tallan]

Late April to early May, and September generally, are pretty much the busiest periods in SJPP.

Because *everyone* is "avoiding the crowds" ...

That and because they are avoiding the heat of the high summer and the cold/wet of late fall, winter, and early spring.

 

[David Tallan]

Perhaps, if a few hundred others have done the same the fact that Santiago is “booked out” is explained

I think it was SJPP that was reported as "booked out", rather than SdC.

 

[gregrobinson]

Just an FYI that all available beds are taken in SJPDP tonight - fully, truly COMPLETO! There’s an indication of how busy this year may be since it’s just a Wednesday in late April, not usually considered a busy time for the CF. Cold weather over the Route Napoleon may be backing up some pilgrims, too. Over two dozen pilgrims have been given mats and a floor to sleep on in a municipal building, so the statement, “No pilgrim sleeps on the street in St Jean” remains true, but a hard floor is not so great either.

I’m in Los Arcos right now, everything is full. I’m having to reserve a few days ahead if I want to go with the main stages. So much for spontaneity. Santiago is also booked up over a month out unless you want to spend over 200 euros a night, I have no idea when I’ll get there so I have two reservations.

Los Arcos is always full. I've been there four times in different seasons and it's filled up every time.

 

[Ianinam]

In Roncesvalles during the Semana Santa and Easter weekend it was more quiet than we expected.
But the last one and a half week it is full house daily; no beds available after 3.30 pm so make sturen you reservate a bed!

 

[nathanael]

Just an FYI that all available beds are taken in SJPDP tonight - fully, truly COMPLETO! There’s an indication of how busy this year may be since it’s just a Wednesday in late April, not usually considered a busy time for the CF. Cold weather over the Route Napoleon may be backing up some pilgrims, too. Over two dozen pilgrims have been given mats and a floor to sleep on in a municipal building, so the statement, “No pilgrim sleeps on the street in St Jean” remains true, but a hard floor is not so great either.

no problem due to the thefts and crowds doing a much better rout. Have fun.

 

[grdemedeiros]

@Kathar1na
@Monasp
I'm a data newbie , are these numbers for the Camino Frances? Or all the different routes combined?

 

[Kathar1na]

I'm a data newbie , are these numbers for the Camino Frances? Or all the different routes combined?

The data in the table in post #3 and the data in the graph and list in post #11 reflect the number of pilgrims who visited and were counted by the Pilgrim Welcome Office in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

They provide a snapshot of the Camino Frances over the roughly 75 km between SJPP and Pamplona.

Both table and graph have been kindly provided by the Pilgrim Welcome Office in SJPP and more specifically by their office manager and forum member @Monasp.

 

[Cliff175]

I have just finished the Portuguese Camino,,, Santiago was complete,, the Monistary Minor. ,,completo,,,we went to monte Gozo,,beds available,,,however in a few weeks will be completo for months ,,, bottom line is the Camino has been discovered,, infrastructure is not sufficient for the amount of pilgrims. Tour groups, ability to reserve, forwarding bags , internet ! etc have an accumulative effect… without these convenient capabilities the amount of pilgrims would be much less..
is hard to walk 15 miles with full backpack and be denied a bed ,,, standing amongst 15 people with day packs , just stepping off the bus.
And That’s the Way it Is… ( Walter Chronkite )

 

[VNwalking]

. Tour groups, ability to reserve, forwarding bags , internet ! etc have an accumulative effect… without these convenient capabilities the amount of pilgrims would be much less..
is hard to walk 15 miles with full backpack and be denied a bed ,,, standing amongst 15 people with day packs , just stepping off the bus.

Grrrrr...especlly about the last bit.
Sorry, @Cliff175 . That sucks.

I go in and out of being able to be at peace with all this. The saving grace is that there are still ways (plenty of them) which are less travelled.

 

[Pafayac]

You are forgetting one important factor, @Cliff175: the advertising we are doing about the Camino.
For a part, we are responsible of overcrowding. However, could we prevent others to get the same pleasure we have walking on the Camino ?
NB: The Botafumeiro has not swung for months cf article below (in spanish):

El motivo por el que no funciona el botafumeiro de la Catedral de Santiago esta Navidad

El botafumeiro es uno de los elementos más populares de la Catedral de Santiago. Es un incensario de grandes dimensiones que llama la atención de quien...

www.cope.es

 

[Kathar1na]

You are forgetting one important factor, @Cliff175: the advertising we are doing about the Camino.

Yes, and I think that we like to downplay this.

Years ago, people learnt about Camino walking in Spain mainly through word of mouth and then through articles in their regional or national newspapers and book promotion tours in talkshows on their TV. Now it is social media. The number of Camino groups and individual Camino pages on Facebook seems to have exploded in recent years, and photos and comments reach a much wider and more diverse audience than ever before.

 

[good_old_shoes]

I've been reading a bit in some facebook groups, and the impression I get is that many (!) pilgrims starting right now are completely oblivious to the fact that april/may are high season for a start from St. Jean, and also have no clue that there are many holidays in may that bring not only many pilgrims but also lots of people on regular vacations, too.

What I usually read is "but it's the shoulder season / off season, why is it so busy?"

Same is what I heard from many pilgrims I spoke with this april. They had no idea they were starting in one of the most busy months of the year and had chosen that month because they thought it would be more quiet than in summer.

I guess one big problem is people look at the Santiago arrival statistics, but don't understand that those numbers have little do do with the departure numbers from St. Jean.

 

[Bradypus]

I guess one big problem is people look at the Santiago arrival statistics, but don't understand that those numbers have little do do with the departure numbers from St. Jean

True. And many first-timers (and some old hands too) have outdated ideas about the Caminos. Especially the idea that the Camino Frances and "the Camino" are more or less interchangeable and that "the Camino" starts in SJPDP. In reality only about 10% of those who receive a Compostela these days have walked from SJPDP, Roncesvalles or Pamplona. The Frances east of Sarria is no longer "the Camino" - it is now just one of an ever-expanding number of routes. Which include the shorter walk from Sarria. The Portugues and the Portugues Costa are rapidly growing in popularity and may overtake the Frances as the most popular option in a few years time. On the day I arrived in Santiago after walking the Primitivo a young man who had just walked from SJPDP asked if I had any plans to walk "the real Camino" anytime...

 

[Cliff175]

VN walking...your absolutely right the last part is tough to handle.

original Camino necessities .. Backpack, Guidebook and FAITH ... ( and you could eliminate the guide book really )

No sence in beating a dead horse, the Camino has been discovered , for Better or Worse,, time will tell.