Some thoughts about our Camino Inglés

[SabsP]

Last week two friends and I walked the Camino Inglés together.
For them a first Camino.Seeing we were all restricted in time I prebooked all our rooms.Good thing I did because it was very busy.
It was my third Inglés and I was overwhelmed by the groups that passed . Of course this was a summer Camino.
And the weird thing is that when you let the groups pass , it gets so quiet again.
In Naron we took the footpath ( pasarela ) next to the railway making the first day doable for us. 24 kilometers instead of 30 .
And we were not the only ones to take that route. This way we bypassed Neda. The pasarela ends at the trainstation of Neda and from there on you are back on the regular route.
Then it became a bit complicated : Brierley mentions the regular route ( yellow ) and the green one ( next to the beaches of Cabanas ) and an alternativo ( in the book a grey one ).
But at the crossroad after Vilar do Colo the local amigos have placed two mojones : one for the yellow normal route . And what we thought was the alternativo ( in the guide the grey one but on the explanation board it was green ).
So the Alternativo is in fact the very hard and steep one going through a forest and then steep back down. Lesson well learnt. So we did not see any beach until we were practically in Pontedeume. I was raving to my friends how nice those beaches were but on the other hand we were more than happy to have reached our destination. The Alternativo also doubles the distance and the height compared with the two other routes.
Rain on and off did not help for our mood. Just keep walking!

Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".

The steep ascent out of Pontedeume is quite something. Important to pace oneself and keep checking your breath.
Drink enough , even if you do not feel thirsty or if you think it is not that hot.
In Miño we took a longer break, seeing it was raining cats and dogs.
I do like the walk into Betanzos with the gorgeous church of San Martin de Tiobre.
In Betanzos we stayed at quiet hotel Garelos where we had a big room with three individual beds.
Not much need and energy left for sightseeing so after showering we went to a café.

Then the etapa to Hospital de Bruma which is indeed the hardest one of the Inglés due to the steep hills.
Luckily a dry day. Not many options to stop so make use of them to take a break when you feel you need it.
Here we saw what a difference it makes when people send their packs forward. I took us so much longer to walk than those with a lightweight daypack. But we made it.
Very new is the picknick / public swimming pool spot at Encorro de Beche. There is a small stall ( drinks and fries ).Basic catering for the swimmers. Attendance and service very rude and then we saw a much nicer restaurant cafeteria just behind the first place ( rather hidden if you come from the path ). So we went to that place and our faith in the nice Spaniards was again restored.
We took a longer stop again at famous Casa Avelina before tackling the two kilometers into Meson do Vento.
Hotel Canaima is decent and quiet.We had a family room. Next to a petrolstation. The shutters kept out all the noise.

Next day to Sigueiro. In distance the longest day. Two of us were nurturing a blister. One friend under her foot, on the flat.I on the top of my little toe.
So we told our other friend to keep her pace and she went on.
The last seven k.were quite difficult for us, on a foothpath next to the AP-9.
In Sigueiro we had two private rooms at private albergue Camino Real.Very nice staff.

Last day walking into Santiago is quite straightforward.We started at eight , took some breaks and arrived at one on the spot in front of the cathedral.

Aside from the Portugues in 2015 this was my first summer Camino and I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. Lines to enter the cathedral too. So went early in the morning to pay a visit and our respect.
In another thread I already posted about the swift organisation of the Oficina de Peregrinos. I would have preferred a more personal reception but I understand that it is not possible with the numbers of pilgrims. And I am aware that I myself contribute to these numbers.

In general : lots of groups from Spain and also couples. We saw only four individual walkers . On our Inglés backpacks were in the minority.Not wanting to start another debate here about pro and contra forwarding luggage but for a first time I felt that the " daypackers " thought we were an oddity while twelve years ago I would thought the same of them.

Will I walk the Inglés again? Most probably not. Three times is enough.
Is it a gorgeous Camino? I do think so. Do try to walk it in a less busier season. Whatever season, there will be rain.

For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.

For those who are interested in the food and restaurants en route I will write down my suggestions later.

 

[Robo]

Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".

Ingles sounds great, On my to do list.

Noise is indeed a cultural thing I think.
I accept it of course, but struggle with it at times.
One thing I do now, is to try to only stay where Pilgrims stay.
Because they generally go to bed early!

A few times in various places I have been offered a great room overlooking a square, main street or heaven forbid, the terrace bar. I have politely asked for a room 'at the back'.

Re the "daypackers". I have only recently discovered the more remote Caminos that don't have luggage transfers. Tends not to attract the large groups in coaches me thinks.

 

[SabsP]

Ingles sounds great, On my to do list.

Noise is indeed a cultural thing I think.
I accept it of course, but struggle with it at times.
One thing I do now, is to try to only stay where Pilgrims stay.
Because they generally go to bed early!

A few times in various places I have been offered a great room overlooking a square, main street or heaven forbid, the terrace bar. I have politely asked for a room 'at the back'.

Our pensions and hotels were full with pilgrims. At Pontedeume all the lodgings , except from the Xunta albergue , seem to be in the old centre. In Ferrol the hostal provides earbuds seeing the place also has a restaurant.
When we had breakfast at 7.30 in Pontedeume drunk revellers next to us were still going on.Though I must say they were polite, but loud ....

 

[jungleboy]

For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.

I also did that on the Inglés in June. We didn't see groups at the level you described but it was busy enough for there to be a bed race in Bruma.

Ingles sounds great, On my to do list.

Just my opinion and depending on what your motivations are, but for an experienced pilgrim, I'm not sure that the Inglés has much new to offer. But maybe that says more about me than the route, on reflection, as I'm a 'go somewhere different' type of person rather than a 'take comfort in the familiar' type of person.

 

[J Willhaus]

Thanks for your detailed post. It is a short Camino and therefore may appeal to those with less time for a pilgrimage?

 

[SabsP]

Thanks for your detailed post. It is a short Camino and therefore may appeal to those with less time for a pilgrimage?

Indeed. It covers the conditions for receiving the Compostela.
After the first day I already am able to get " into the zone " so even with only five days walking it feels like a complete pilgrimage.
Two of us three have family obligations at home so for the coming time we are not able to walk for longer periods.
Extra bonus is that there are direct flights from Brussels to Santiago and back on Sundays with Vueling.

 

[Kirkie]

Last week two friends and I walked the Camino Inglés together.
For them a first Camino.Seeing we were all restricted in time I prebooked all our rooms.Good thing I did because it was very busy.
It was my third Inglés and I was overwhelmed by the groups that passed . Of course this was a summer Camino.
And the weird thing is that when you let the groups pass , it gets so quiet again.
In Naron we took the footpath ( pasarela ) next to the railway making the first day doable for us. 24 kilometers instead of 30 .
And we were not the only ones to take that route. This way we bypassed Neda. The pasarela ends at the trainstation of Neda and from there on you are back on the regular route.
Then it became a bit complicated : Brierley mentions the regular route ( yellow ) and the green one ( next to the beaches of Cabanas ) and an alternativo ( in the book a grey one ).
But at the crossroad after Vilar do Colo the local amigos have placed two mojones : one for the yellow normal route . And what we thought was the alternativo ( in the guide the grey one but on the explanation board it was green ).
So the Alternativo is in fact the very hard and steep one going through a forest and then steep back down. Lesson well learnt. So we did not see any beach until we were practically in Pontedeume. I was raving to my friends how nice those beaches were but on the other hand we were more than happy to have reached our destination. The Alternativo also doubles the distance and the height compared with the two other routes.
Rain on and off did not help for our mood. Just keep walking!

Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".

The steep ascent out of Pontedeume is quite something. Important to pace oneself and keep checking your breath.
Drink enough , even if you do not feel thirsty or if you think it is not that hot.
In Miño we took a longer break, seeing it was raining cats and dogs.
I do like the walk into Betanzos with the gorgeous church of San Martin de Tiobre.
In Betanzos we stayed at quiet hotel Garelos where we had a big room with three individual beds.
Not much need and energy left for sightseeing so after showering we went to a café.

Then the etapa to Hospital de Bruma which is indeed the hardest one of the Inglés due to the steep hills.
Luckily a dry day. Not many options to stop so make use of them to take a break when you feel you need it.
Here we saw what a difference it makes when people send their packs forward. I took us so much longer to walk than those with a lightweight daypack. But we made it.
Very new is the picknick / public swimming pool spot at Encorro de Beche. There is a small stall ( drinks and fries ).Basic catering for the swimmers. Attendance and service very rude and then we saw a much nicer restaurant cafeteria just behind the first place ( rather hidden if you come from the path ). So we went to that place and our faith in the nice Spaniards was again restored.
We took a longer stop again at famous Casa Avelina before tackling the two kilometers into Meson do Vento.
Hotel Canaima is decent and quiet.We had a family room. Next to a petrolstation. The shutters kept out all the noise

Next day to Sigueiro. In distance the longest day. Two of us were nurturing a blister. One friend under her foot, on the flat.I on the top of my little toe.
So we told our other friend to keep her pace and she went on.
The last seven k.were quite difficult for us, on a foothpath next to the AP-9.
In Sigueiro we had two private rooms at private albergue Camino Real.Very nice staff.

Last day walking into Santiago is quite straightforward.We started at eight , took some breaks and arrived at one on the spot in front of the cathedral.

Aside from the Portugues in 2015 this was my first summer Camino and I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. Lines to enter the cathedral too. So went early in the morning to pay a visit and our respect.
In another thread I already posted about the swift organisation of the Oficina de Peregrinos. I would have preferred a more personal reception but I understand that it is not possible with the numbers of pilgrims. And I am aware that I myself contribute to these numbers.

In general : lots of groups from Spain and also couples. We saw only four individual walkers . On our Inglés backpacks were in the minority.No wanting to start another debate here about pro and contra forwarding luggage but for a first time I felt that the " daypackers " thought we were an oddity while twelve years ago I would thought the same of them.

Will I walk the Inglés again? Most probably not. Three times is enough.
Is it a gorgeous Camino? I do think so. Do try to walk it in a less busier season. Whatever season, there will be rain.

For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.

For those who are interested in the food and restaurants en route I will write down my suggestions later.

Thanks for your report. Takes me back to 2019!
In hindsight, I too would avoid Neda. There is a fine municipal there, but it was full of course by the time we got there! Precisely why I booked ahead the whole way. We also sent one backpack forward, so split the weight between two in one normal backpack and one daypack. The place we booked in Neda was disappointing, but c'est la vie.
Pension/bar Luis was really welcoming, and Siguiero, even the bunk bed room was outstanding.
The hills, yes. Two breaths in, two breaths out. You do reach the top!
For us the day we ate in Hotel Canaima, meeting happily with two other forum members and their daughter, and including a drowned rabbit entrance into Cafe Avelina - that was a five hour downpour day. Delightful.
For those who wish to acclimatise to Scots vocabulary for no other reason than it is so cute...

Again, thanks. It is a perfectly acceptable short but complete camino ending in Santiago. So glad your only inconvenience was a little blister!

 

[Kirkie]

Thanks for your detailed post. It is a short Camino and therefore may appeal to those with less time for a pilgrimage?

We did it as a pilgrimage... short, but complete...

Actually, although we have so far only walked the CF, the Portugués from Oporto, the Salvador and the Ingles, each was in fact a pilgrimage.

 

[1man2dogs]

Last week two friends and I walked the Camino Inglés together.
For them a first Camino.Seeing we were all restricted in time I prebooked all our rooms.Good thing I did because it was very busy.
It was my third Inglés and I was overwhelmed by the groups that passed . Of course this was a summer Camino.
And the weird thing is that when you let the groups pass , it gets so quiet again.
In Naron we took the footpath ( pasarela ) next to the railway making the first day doable for us. 24 kilometers instead of 30 .
And we were not the only ones to take that route. This way we bypassed Neda. The pasarela ends at the trainstation of Neda and from there on you are back on the regular route.
Then it became a bit complicated : Brierley mentions the regular route ( yellow ) and the green one ( next to the beaches of Cabanas ) and an alternativo ( in the book a grey one ).
But at the crossroad after Vilar do Colo the local amigos have placed two mojones : one for the yellow normal route . And what we thought was the alternativo ( in the guide the grey one but on the explanation board it was green ).
So the Alternativo is in fact the very hard and steep one going through a forest and then steep back down. Lesson well learnt. So we did not see any beach until we were practically in Pontedeume. I was raving to my friends how nice those beaches were but on the other hand we were more than happy to have reached our destination. The Alternativo also doubles the distance and the height compared with the two other routes.
Rain on and off did not help for our mood. Just keep walking!

Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".

The steep ascent out of Pontedeume is quite something. Important to pace oneself and keep checking your breath.
Drink enough , even if you do not feel thirsty or if you think it is not that hot.
In Miño we took a longer break, seeing it was raining cats and dogs.
I do like the walk into Betanzos with the gorgeous church of San Martin de Tiobre.
In Betanzos we stayed at quiet hotel Garelos where we had a big room with three individual beds.
Not much need and energy left for sightseeing so after showering we went to a café.

Then the etapa to Hospital de Bruma which is indeed the hardest one of the Inglés due to the steep hills.
Luckily a dry day. Not many options to stop so make use of them to take a break when you feel you need it.
Here we saw what a difference it makes when people send their packs forward. I took us so much longer to walk than those with a lightweight daypack. But we made it.
Very new is the picknick / public swimming pool spot at Encorro de Beche. There is a small stall ( drinks and fries ).Basic catering for the swimmers. Attendance and service very rude and then we saw a much nicer restaurant cafeteria just behind the first place ( rather hidden if you come from the path ). So we went to that place and our faith in the nice Spaniards was again restored.
We took a longer stop again at famous Casa Avelina before tackling the two kilometers into Meson do Vento.
Hotel Canaima is decent and quiet.We had a family room. Next to a petrolstation. The shutters kept out all the noise

Next day to Sigueiro. In distance the longest day. Two of us were nurturing a blister. One friend under her foot, on the flat.I on the top of my little toe.
So we told our other friend to keep her pace and she went on.
The last seven k.were quite difficult for us, on a foothpath next to the AP-9.
In Sigueiro we had two private rooms at private albergue Camino Real.Very nice staff.

Last day walking into Santiago is quite straightforward.We started at eight , took some breaks and arrived at one on the spot in front of the cathedral.

Aside from the Portugues in 2015 this was my first summer Camino and I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. Lines to enter the cathedral too. So went early in the morning to pay a visit and our respect.
In another thread I already posted about the swift organisation of the Oficina de Peregrinos. I would have preferred a more personal reception but I understand that it is not possible with the numbers of pilgrims. And I am aware that I myself contribute to these numbers.

In general : lots of groups from Spain and also couples. We saw only four individual walkers . On our Inglés backpacks were in the minority.No wanting to start another debate here about pro and contra forwarding luggage but for a first time I felt that the " daypackers " thought we were an oddity while twelve years ago I would thought the same of them.

Will I walk the Inglés again? Most probably not. Three times is enough.
Is it a gorgeous Camino? I do think so. Do try to walk it in a less busier season. Whatever season, there will be rain.

For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.

For those who are interested in the food and restaurants en route I will write down my suggestions later.

I start my Camino Ingles on Friday, though I get to Ferrol on Thurs. I did think I was being over cautious booking my accommodation in advance, but reading your post I'm glad I did now

 

[SabsP]

I start my Camino Ingles on Friday, though I get to Ferrol on Thurs. I did think I was being over cautious booking my accommodation in advance, but reading your post I'm glad I did now

If it was only myself walking I would have taken the chance of not booking but this gave us ease of mind and we were able not having to rush.
I heard for instance that Xunta albergue and the private albergue at Hospital de Bruma were full that day.

 

[SabsP]

Extra note : knowing some Spanish vocabulary really enhances your Camino. You can do without , but I am glad with my four years of Spanish at adult evening class.
The effort is much appreciated by locals.
It also helps not losing too much time at the end of the day ( tiredness) when you want to check into your hotel.
I could help my friends when they wanted to buy / order things.

Remarkable that in Sigueiro most younger staff always spoke Gallego.

 

[LTfit]

I also did that on the Inglés in June. We didn't see groups at the level you described but it was busy enough for there to be a bed race in Bruma.


Just my opinion and depending on what your motivations are, but for an experienced pilgrim, I'm not sure that the Inglés has much new to offer. But maybe that says more about me than the route, on reflection, as I'm a 'go somewhere different' type of person rather than a 'take comfort in the familiar' type of person.

Totally agree. One June I finished the Norte from Gijón to Finisterre then took a bus to Porto to walk the Coastal route to Santiago followed by a train to Ferrol to walk the Inglés. It was an "add on" for me as I had some extra time. Glad I did it that way. The Inglés is not a Camino that I would repeat but great that others do!

That being said, I have walked the Vía de la Plata, Primitivo, Francés from SJPdP and Norte twice, each time felt different as I walked them in very different seasons and several years apart.

 

[SabsP]

Totally agree. One June I finished the Norte from Gijón to Finisterre then took a bus to Porto to walk the Coastal route to Santiago followed by a train to Ferrol to walk the Inglés. It was an "add on" for me as I had some extra time. Glad I did it that way. The Inglés is not a Camino that I would repeat but great that others do!

That being said, I have walked the Vía de la Plata, Primitivo, Francés from SJPdP and Norte twice, each time felt different as I walked them in very different seasons and several years apart.

You know me @LTfit : my Caminos are just a perfect excuse for trying out new restaurants .

 

[LTfit]

You know me @LTfit : my Caminos are just a perfect excuse for trying out new restaurants .

Haha, I noticed! No one asks me for restaurant recommendations that's for sure

 

[makingtrax]

Last week two friends and I walked the Camino Inglés together.
For them a first Camino.Seeing we were all restricted in time I prebooked all our rooms.Good thing I did because it was very busy.
It was my third Inglés and I was overwhelmed by the groups that passed . Of course this was a summer Camino.
And the weird thing is that when you let the groups pass , it gets so quiet again.
In Naron we took the footpath ( pasarela ) next to the railway making the first day doable for us. 24 kilometers instead of 30 .
And we were not the only ones to take that route. This way we bypassed Neda. The pasarela ends at the trainstation of Neda and from there on you are back on the regular route.
Then it became a bit complicated : Brierley mentions the regular route ( yellow ) and the green one ( next to the beaches of Cabanas ) and an alternativo ( in the book a grey one ).
But at the crossroad after Vilar do Colo the local amigos have placed two mojones : one for the yellow normal route . And what we thought was the alternativo ( in the guide the grey one but on the explanation board it was green ).
So the Alternativo is in fact the very hard and steep one going through a forest and then steep back down. Lesson well learnt. So we did not see any beach until we were practically in Pontedeume. I was raving to my friends how nice those beaches were but on the other hand we were more than happy to have reached our destination. The Alternativo also doubles the distance and the height compared with the two other routes.
Rain on and off did not help for our mood. Just keep walking!

Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".

The steep ascent out of Pontedeume is quite something. Important to pace oneself and keep checking your breath.
Drink enough , even if you do not feel thirsty or if you think it is not that hot.
In Miño we took a longer break, seeing it was raining cats and dogs.
I do like the walk into Betanzos with the gorgeous church of San Martin de Tiobre.
In Betanzos we stayed at quiet hotel Garelos where we had a big room with three individual beds.
Not much need and energy left for sightseeing so after showering we went to a café.

Then the etapa to Hospital de Bruma which is indeed the hardest one of the Inglés due to the steep hills.
Luckily a dry day. Not many options to stop so make use of them to take a break when you feel you need it.
Here we saw what a difference it makes when people send their packs forward. I took us so much longer to walk than those with a lightweight daypack. But we made it.
Very new is the picknick / public swimming pool spot at Encorro de Beche. There is a small stall ( drinks and fries ).Basic catering for the swimmers. Attendance and service very rude and then we saw a much nicer restaurant cafeteria just behind the first place ( rather hidden if you come from the path ). So we went to that place and our faith in the nice Spaniards was again restored.
We took a longer stop again at famous Casa Avelina before tackling the two kilometers into Meson do Vento.
Hotel Canaima is decent and quiet.We had a family room. Next to a petrolstation. The shutters kept out all the noise

Next day to Sigueiro. In distance the longest day. Two of us were nurturing a blister. One friend under her foot, on the flat.I on the top of my little toe.
So we told our other friend to keep her pace and she went on.
The last seven k.were quite difficult for us, on a foothpath next to the AP-9.
In Sigueiro we had two private rooms at private albergue Camino Real.Very nice staff.

Last day walking into Santiago is quite straightforward.We started at eight , took some breaks and arrived at one on the spot in front of the cathedral.

Aside from the Portugues in 2015 this was my first summer Camino and I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. Lines to enter the cathedral too. So went early in the morning to pay a visit and our respect.
In another thread I already posted about the swift organisation of the Oficina de Peregrinos. I would have preferred a more personal reception but I understand that it is not possible with the numbers of pilgrims. And I am aware that I myself contribute to these numbers.

In general : lots of groups from Spain and also couples. We saw only four individual walkers . On our Inglés backpacks were in the minority.Not wanting to start another debate here about pro and contra forwarding luggage but for a first time I felt that the " daypackers " thought we were an oddity while twelve years ago I would thought the same of them.

Will I walk the Inglés again? Most probably not. Three times is enough.
Is it a gorgeous Camino? I do think so. Do try to walk it in a less busier season. Whatever season, there will be rain.

For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.

For those who are interested in the food and restaurants en route I will write down my suggestions later.

Thanku for all your helpful info. I've walked caminos 14 times but not the Ingles. My friend who is 80 wants to do a camino with me next year and this the only one I would consider. I never have stayed in private albergues or sent baggage ahead but would have to do so if we attempt this challenge. Can u please tell me average cost of your accommodation please. We would be walking in April. Thank u. Kiwi Kathleen

 

[Robo]

I also did that on the Inglés in June. We didn't see groups at the level you described but it was busy enough for there to be a bed race in Bruma.


Just my opinion and depending on what your motivations are, but for an experienced pilgrim, I'm not sure that the Inglés has much new to offer. But maybe that says more about me than the route, on reflection, as I'm a 'go somewhere different' type of person rather than a 'take comfort in the familiar' type of person.

Maybe one to 'tack onto' another Camino at the end then.
I have to say I enjoyed the Camino Fisterra as an 'add on' this year.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Thanku for all your helpful info. I've walked caminos 14 times but not the Ingles. My friend who is 80 wants to do a camino with me next year and this the only one I would consider. I never have stayed in private albergues or sent baggage ahead but would have to do so if we attempt this challenge. Can u please tell me average cost of your accommodation please. We would be walking in April. Thank u. Kiwi Kathleen

Kathleen, I walked the Inglés in April this year, booked because of time restrictions - seriously glad I did because it was Easter ! EVERYTHING was full in some places. But places like Bruma and it’s environs that happens multiple times a year.
Mostly cheaper hotels between €35 - €45 for a single, doubles are normally either the same or just €5 more. A couple of exceptions - Bruma I used the private Albergue, €20, O meson de venta nearby was I think around €80.
I presume your going to do shorter stages, a couple of those days might be a bit much for an 80 year old unless they’re seriously fit! But then, guess I’m trying to teach you to suck eggs …

 

[SabsP]

Thanku for all your helpful info. I've walked caminos 14 times but not the Ingles. My friend who is 80 wants to do a camino with me next year and this the only one I would consider. I never have stayed in private albergues or sent baggage ahead but would have to do so if we attempt this challenge. Can u please tell me average cost of your accommodation please. We would be walking in April. Thank u. Kiwi Kathleen

Hi Kathleen,

I always try to book directly with the pension /hostel seeing I do not want to use bookingsites out of principle. Though two times I had to use bookingdotcom.

Ferrol : Hostal Zahara : 94 € for the three of us. One single and a double ( two single beds ) .

ZAHARA - HOSTAL - Zahara Ferrol

Hostal Zahara Ferrol. EAT. SLEEP. REPEAT. Scroll reserva Hospédate con nosotros y descubre la mejor manera de conocer Ferrol. Estamos ubicados en la Plaza del Callao, en el barrio de la Magdalena. Esta zona está en pleno centro de Ferrol (La Coruña), lo que nos coloca en un lugar privilegiado...

zaharaferrol.com

Pontedeume : Pension/ Restaurante Luis . I just messaged them a couple of weeks beforehand and they replied very quickly. Single for 20 € and the double ( two single beds ) 45 €.

RESTAURANTE LUIS

Desde 1962 ,Restaurante Familiar, comida casera, Menú del Día, Carta, Comidas para grupos

www.buenacarta.es

Betanzos : Hotel Garelos. Booked directly through their own bookingsystem. A very large room with three individual beds. In this one a nice breakfast was included. 110 € for the night.

Hotel Garelos - Hotel Garelos**

Descubre nuestras habitaciones, donde tu descanso es nuestra prioridadReserva tu habitaciónMimamos los detalles para que te sientas como en casaRealiza tu reserva Anterior Siguiente La mejor elección en Betanzos Parada del camino De Santiago y la verdad que acertamos. Hotel familiar, acogedor y...

hotelgarelos.com

Meson do Vento with hotel Canaima was the most expensive with 130 € for a large room with three individual beds. Booked directly.

Hotel Canaima

www.hotelcanaimabruma.com

Sigueiro : Albergue Camino Real.They also offer private rooms.A single an a double.Total of 100 €. We shared a bathroom but also had a kitchen and terrace to dry our clothes.

El Albergue | Albergue Camiño Real

www.caminorealsantiago.com

Santiago de Compostela : two nights at recently renovated Pombal Rooms. Per night for the three of us : 120 €. Enormous room with three individual beds and so central but also really quiet.

Pombal Rooms en Santiago de Compostela. Web Oficial

Pombal Rooms en Santiago de Compostela. Web Oficial. de estrellas situado en Pombal 12, Santiago de Compostela. Reserve online al Mejor Precio.

www.pombalroomssantiago.com

 

[makingtrax]

Kathleen, I walked the Inglés in April this year, booked because of time restrictions - seriously glad I did because it was Easter ! EVERYTHING was full in some places. But places like Bruma and it’s environs that happens multiple times a year.
Mostly cheaper hotels between €35 - €45 for a single, doubles are normally either the same or just €5 more. A couple of exceptions - Bruma I used the private Albergue, €20, O meson de venta nearby was I think around €80.
I presume your going to do shorter stages, a couple of those days might be a bit much for an 80 year old unless they’re seriously fit! But then, guess I’m trying to teach you to suck eggs …

Hi, thank you for your info and comments. I am concerned re distance and hills for her. Your info will help me make decisions. Regards kathleen

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Hi, thank you for your info and comments. I am concerned re distance and hills for her. Your info will help me make decisions. Regards kathleen

Kathleen, there are two or three thread's on here about the Inglès that I recall reading where people talked about walking it in I think 8 day's. The hill out of Pontdeume is pretty steep, as are a couple of stretches on days three and four. Definitely doable - don't stress - but you'd want to take your time. One major advantage of booking ahead of course, you have the whole day!

 

[SabsP]

So , two of us three love to try out new food and restaurants.Our other friend does not mind tagging along so we went to following places.

In Ferrol we went to O Pincho.To my surprise , at 8.15 pm there were already some locals eating.We found a table outside and half an hour later it was packed, also inside.

O Pincho - Tapas Bar

O Pincho - Tapas Bar ofrece la mejor experiencia de comida y bebida a domicilio. Realiza tu pedido online y disfruta de promociones online exclusivas.

www.opincho.es

We took some raciones like chipirones, pimientos de Padron and their patatas bravas with mojo picon. Mojo is a typical sauce from the Canary Islands. Will try to copy it now I am home.

In Pontedeume we had nice simple lunch at Casa Baron.
Delicious croquetas and homemade tarta de queso.

Casa Barón in Pontedeume - Restaurant reviews

I recommend you to visit the restaurant Casa Barón. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.

restaurantguru.com

I

In the evening we went for an Albariño wine at new place Trintaedous where we had a plate of a rather fatty and savoury jamon iberico.
They specialise in seafood.
No pilgrim to be seen, caters for the locals.

Menu at Trintaedous restaurant, Pontedeume

The actual menu of the Trintaedous restaurant. Prices and visitors' opinions on dishes.

restaurantguru.com

Lunch in Betanzos was at Meson O Pote. Just wonderful cuisine. We were able to get a table due to guests who did not cancel.
My friends at grilled octopus with an espuma of potatoes and I had perfectly medium grilled ternera.
Dessert was a chocolateganache with sauce of orange.
I will return.

Mesón O Pote Betanzos | Comer en Betanzos | Tortilla de Betanzos

Disfruta en nuestra casa para comer y cenar en Betanzos. Premio nacional de Tortilla de patatas con nuestra tortilla de Betanzos

www.mesonopote.com

Mesón O'Pote in Betanzos - Restaurant reviews

I recommend you to visit the restaurant Mesón O'Pote. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.

restaurantguru.com

Meson do Vento : some pimientos and jamon at Restaurante La Ruta. Nothing special but not bad either.


In Sigueiro we went to El Cortes , a place for locals and pilgrims. Very good chipirones but the zorza was cold when it come to the table.

Carta – Restaurante El Cortés

www.restaurantecortes.es

In Santiago we went to San Clemente which is very classic in its dishes.I had the local grelos with chorizo and as a main a simple hamburger.Even the fries were nice.

Day after was our celebratory meal at Michelin rated Casa Marcelo. A unique experience.They ask for your food allergies ( we had none ) and then they bring you one suprise after the other.
No stiff service at all. And the price paid per person would equal here in Belgium an aperitive, a mediocre steak with fries, two special beers and an icecream.

Casa Marcelo – Santiago de Compostela - a MICHELIN Guide Restaurant

Casa Marcelo – a One Star: High quality cooking restaurant in the 2024 MICHELIN Guide España. The MICHELIN inspectors’ point of view, information on prices, types of cuisine and opening hours on the MICHELIN Guide's official website

guide.michelin.com

Casa Marcelo in Santiago de Compostela - Seafood restaurant menu and reviews

I recommend you to visit the restaurant Casa Marcelo. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.

restaurantguru.com

I always tried to get pan con tomate for breakfast. Who would know that toasted bread with grated tomatoes, olive oil and salt could be so deicious.

 

[Rachel from Seattle]

Thanku for all your helpful info. I've walked caminos 14 times but not the Ingles. My friend who is 80 wants to do a camino with me next year and this the only one I would consider. I never have stayed in private albergues or sent baggage ahead but would have to do so if we attempt this challenge. Can u please tell me average cost of your accommodation please. We would be walking in April. Thank u. Kiwi Kathleen

Just be aware that it is quite a hilly route and train for that. Another route to consider would be the Portuguese central to do with your 80 year old friend.

 

[SabsP]

Just be aware that it is quite a hilly route and train for that. Another route to consider would be the Portuguese central to do with your 80 year old friend.

My suggestion also. Or Sarria to Santiago because of the many choices for stops.
A pilgrim on the Inglés compared it with a mini Primitivo.

 

[makingtrax]

Just be aware that it is quite a hilly route and train for that. Another route to consider would be the Portuguese central to do with your 80 year old friend.

Thanku. I've done Portugeasa 3 times! I'd like a new route.

 

[SabsP]

On the topic of bankcards : on the Inglés we paid almost exclusively with bankcard ( the normal debit one ).
Even small breakfast places and the Coviran local shops accept them.
We saw only two cafés that explicitly mentioned not accepting cards.

In Belgium we have an app called Payconiq making it very easy for us to pay each other back.
We decided in the morning who would pay all the bills for the day and then in the evening we counted everything and did the accounts.

Account-to-Account Payments Technology Provider - Payconiq

The Complete Payment Platform for Banks, Merchants and Payment Solution providers · Proven Technology · Expert in both consumer outreach & payment processing.

www.payconiq.com

 

[ChristelMarcAntwerp22]

Thanku. I've done Portugeasa 3 times! I'd like a new route.

Hi,
you might have this info already but am sharing it anyway, on this site stages are set out for a slow Camino Ingles, all doable distances with lots of info on accomodations, restaurants, etc..
intend to do this slow camino myself with my wife, have a great Camino !

O Camiño Inglés SLOW - Camino Inglés

O Camiño Inglés SLOW Percorre o Camiño Inglés en etapas máis curtas. O importante é desfrutar de cada quilómetro do Camiño, ao teu ritmo. Scroll Propoñemos un xeito de percorrer o Camiño Inglés tranquilo, Slow, completando cada etapa do Camiño gozando máis do contorno e das vilas ao seu paso en...

www.caminoingles.gal

 

[Catherine O'Connor]

Last week two friends and I walked the Camino Inglés together.
For them a first Camino.Seeing we were all restricted in time I prebooked all our rooms.Good thing I did because it was very busy.
It was my third Inglés and I was overwhelmed by the groups that passed . Of course this was a summer Camino.
And the weird thing is that when you let the groups pass , it gets so quiet again.
In Naron we took the footpath ( pasarela ) next to the railway making the first day doable for us. 24 kilometers instead of 30 .
And we were not the only ones to take that route. This way we bypassed Neda. The pasarela ends at the trainstation of Neda and from there on you are back on the regular route.
Then it became a bit complicated : Brierley mentions the regular route ( yellow ) and the green one ( next to the beaches of Cabanas ) and an alternativo ( in the book a grey one ).
But at the crossroad after Vilar do Colo the local amigos have placed two mojones : one for the yellow normal route . And what we thought was the alternativo ( in the guide the grey one but on the explanation board it was green ).
So the Alternativo is in fact the very hard and steep one going through a forest and then steep back down. Lesson well learnt. So we did not see any beach until we were practically in Pontedeume. I was raving to my friends how nice those beaches were but on the other hand we were more than happy to have reached our destination. The Alternativo also doubles the distance and the height compared with the two other routes.
Rain on and off did not help for our mood. Just keep walking!

Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".

The steep ascent out of Pontedeume is quite something. Important to pace oneself and keep checking your breath.
Drink enough , even if you do not feel thirsty or if you think it is not that hot.
In Miño we took a longer break, seeing it was raining cats and dogs.
I do like the walk into Betanzos with the gorgeous church of San Martin de Tiobre.
In Betanzos we stayed at quiet hotel Garelos where we had a big room with three individual beds.
Not much need and energy left for sightseeing so after showering we went to a café.

Then the etapa to Hospital de Bruma which is indeed the hardest one of the Inglés due to the steep hills.
Luckily a dry day. Not many options to stop so make use of them to take a break when you feel you need it.
Here we saw what a difference it makes when people send their packs forward. I took us so much longer to walk than those with a lightweight daypack. But we made it.
Very new is the picknick / public swimming pool spot at Encorro de Beche. There is a small stall ( drinks and fries ).Basic catering for the swimmers. Attendance and service very rude and then we saw a much nicer restaurant cafeteria just behind the first place ( rather hidden if you come from the path ). So we went to that place and our faith in the nice Spaniards was again restored.
We took a longer stop again at famous Casa Avelina before tackling the two kilometers into Meson do Vento.
Hotel Canaima is decent and quiet.We had a family room. Next to a petrolstation. The shutters kept out all the noise.

Next day to Sigueiro. In distance the longest day. Two of us were nurturing a blister. One friend under her foot, on the flat.I on the top of my little toe.
So we told our other friend to keep her pace and she went on.
The last seven k.were quite difficult for us, on a foothpath next to the AP-9.
In Sigueiro we had two private rooms at private albergue Camino Real.Very nice staff.

Last day walking into Santiago is quite straightforward.We started at eight , took some breaks and arrived at one on the spot in front of the cathedral.

Aside from the Portugues in 2015 this was my first summer Camino and I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. Lines to enter the cathedral too. So went early in the morning to pay a visit and our respect.
In another thread I already posted about the swift organisation of the Oficina de Peregrinos. I would have preferred a more personal reception but I understand that it is not possible with the numbers of pilgrims. And I am aware that I myself contribute to these numbers.

In general : lots of groups from Spain and also couples. We saw only four individual walkers . On our Inglés backpacks were in the minority.Not wanting to start another debate here about pro and contra forwarding luggage but for a first time I felt that the " daypackers " thought we were an oddity while twelve years ago I would thought the same of them.

Will I walk the Inglés again? Most probably not. Three times is enough.
Is it a gorgeous Camino? I do think so. Do try to walk it in a less busier season. Whatever season, there will be rain.

For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.

For those who are interested in the food and restaurants en route I will write down my suggestions later.

Do you have any photos of the pasarela out of ferrol. Researching all options for 2024

 

[SabsP]

Do you have any photos of the pasarela out of ferrol. Researching all options for 2024

No, sorry did not make pictures this year because it was raining a bit.
But it is safe and short. If you do an internetsearch you will find some pictures to give you an idea.
I will search for my older pictures.

 

[Catherine O'Connor]

Great, I really enjoyed your detailed report, we are going April 2024

 

[SabsP]

Great, I really enjoyed your detailed report, we are going April 2024

I wanted to take a pic of my Brierley guide but do not know if it is legal due to copyrights to post it here so therefore this link.

Ferrol - Pontedeume | Camino Inglés | Gronze.com

El Camino Inglés arranca en Ferrol, en el muelle de Curuxeiras, cruza la ciudad y prosigue bordeando la ría a lo largo de un recorrido plácido sin apenas desniveles, por paseos peatonales y gozando de buenas vistas. A partir de Fene superaremos los montes, de escasa altitud, que separan las rías...

www.gronze.com

The first shortcut is next to the N-651 and not recommended , the other one is the pasarela.
See details in section " Al Loro ".

Otro atajo es la pasarela peatonal (construida en 2019) junto a la vía del tren; cruza la ría desde el Monasterio de San Martiño a Neda. En este caso el ahorro es de 5,4 km.

 

[cdmaas]

Last week two friends and I walked the Camino Inglés together.
For them a first Camino.Seeing we were all restricted in time I prebooked all our rooms.Good thing I did because it was very busy.
It was my third Inglés and I was overwhelmed by the groups that passed . Of course this was a summer Camino.
And the weird thing is that when you let the groups pass , it gets so quiet again.
In Naron we took the footpath ( pasarela ) next to the railway making the first day doable for us. 24 kilometers instead of 30 .
And we were not the only ones to take that route. This way we bypassed Neda. The pasarela ends at the trainstation of Neda and from there on you are back on the regular route.
Then it became a bit complicated : Brierley mentions the regular route ( yellow ) and the green one ( next to the beaches of Cabanas ) and an alternativo ( in the book a grey one ).
But at the crossroad after Vilar do Colo the local amigos have placed two mojones : one for the yellow normal route . And what we thought was the alternativo ( in the guide the grey one but on the explanation board it was green ).
So the Alternativo is in fact the very hard and steep one going through a forest and then steep back down. Lesson well learnt. So we did not see any beach until we were practically in Pontedeume. I was raving to my friends how nice those beaches were but on the other hand we were more than happy to have reached our destination. The Alternativo also doubles the distance and the height compared with the two other routes.
Rain on and off did not help for our mood. Just keep walking!

Pension/ Bar Luis was as always simple but charming though my friends had a room at the front and a local party of youngsters went on until four in the morning.
It is indeed a cultural thing I believe that Spaniards do not consider noise as a " general nuisance".

The steep ascent out of Pontedeume is quite something. Important to pace oneself and keep checking your breath.
Drink enough , even if you do not feel thirsty or if you think it is not that hot.
In Miño we took a longer break, seeing it was raining cats and dogs.
I do like the walk into Betanzos with the gorgeous church of San Martin de Tiobre.
In Betanzos we stayed at quiet hotel Garelos where we had a big room with three individual beds.
Not much need and energy left for sightseeing so after showering we went to a café.

Then the etapa to Hospital de Bruma which is indeed the hardest one of the Inglés due to the steep hills.
Luckily a dry day. Not many options to stop so make use of them to take a break when you feel you need it.
Here we saw what a difference it makes when people send their packs forward. I took us so much longer to walk than those with a lightweight daypack. But we made it.
Very new is the picknick / public swimming pool spot at Encorro de Beche. There is a small stall ( drinks and fries ).Basic catering for the swimmers. Attendance and service very rude and then we saw a much nicer restaurant cafeteria just behind the first place ( rather hidden if you come from the path ). So we went to that place and our faith in the nice Spaniards was again restored.
We took a longer stop again at famous Casa Avelina before tackling the two kilometers into Meson do Vento.
Hotel Canaima is decent and quiet.We had a family room. Next to a petrolstation. The shutters kept out all the noise.

Next day to Sigueiro. In distance the longest day. Two of us were nurturing a blister. One friend under her foot, on the flat.I on the top of my little toe.
So we told our other friend to keep her pace and she went on.
The last seven k.were quite difficult for us, on a foothpath next to the AP-9.
In Sigueiro we had two private rooms at private albergue Camino Real.Very nice staff.

Last day walking into Santiago is quite straightforward.We started at eight , took some breaks and arrived at one on the spot in front of the cathedral.

Aside from the Portugues in 2015 this was my first summer Camino and I was overwhelmed by the amount of people. Lines to enter the cathedral too. So went early in the morning to pay a visit and our respect.
In another thread I already posted about the swift organisation of the Oficina de Peregrinos. I would have preferred a more personal reception but I understand that it is not possible with the numbers of pilgrims. And I am aware that I myself contribute to these numbers.

In general : lots of groups from Spain and also couples. We saw only four individual walkers . On our Inglés backpacks were in the minority.Not wanting to start another debate here about pro and contra forwarding luggage but for a first time I felt that the " daypackers " thought we were an oddity while twelve years ago I would thought the same of them.

Will I walk the Inglés again? Most probably not. Three times is enough.
Is it a gorgeous Camino? I do think so. Do try to walk it in a less busier season. Whatever season, there will be rain.

For my friends it was their first Camino and I am very happy and proud they made it.
Walking together has its challenges but it was worth it.

For those who are interested in the food and restaurants en route I will write down my suggestions later.

Muchas thank yous for the detailed overview. We are planning on Sept/Oct 2024. This helps us make some decisions.