- Time of past OR future Camino
- A few and hopefully lots more.
I spent a few days on the Camino Vasco Interior in May of this year. A short 'taster' walk, made even shorter by dodgy weather on the mountain/tunnel stage. I'm looking forward to returning and perhaps walking from Bayonne to Burgos.
A few observations that might be helpful to others.
I don't usually complain about road-walking, but there's such a lot of it between Astigarraga/Hernani and Besain. That said, there are plenty of services (water, benches, parks, cafes, grocery stores, great public transport, food, polideportivos) and very friendly local people. Pilgrims are a small part of daily life here, but we're very warmly welcomed. In other words, there's a plus side to all that road-walking.
When in Tolosa: don't miss the amazing puppet museum! I walked from Astigarraga that day and took a few wrong turns as I chose not to use my phone in the rain. It was a long and tiring day. My grumpiness was quickly dispelled by the enchanting display of puppets and the passion of the person who welcomed me. It's hard to describe how special this place is.
The bar/cafeteria in the Hotel Bide Bide (beside the museum) has good and reasonably priced food. It's a useful option if you find yourself very hungry outside the normal Spanish dining times. I had hoped to eat in Ama (recommended by @SabsP and @VNwalking, so it must be good!) but it was closed.
Besain to Zegama: there are a few options for this section:
1. Road (GI-2637): a flat c.13kms. A good option for those seeking short daily distances, or wishing to continue beyond Zegama. Otherwise (IMO), it's just another day of road walking, when there are nicer alternatives!
2. Gronze route: via Olaberria, Idiazabal & Segura: a more undulating (and beautiful) 17kms, with a mix of terrain and environments.
3. Gronze route to Segura, GR or road to Zerain, then a choice of routes to Zegama (Gronze shows this as 20kms, which I think is by road from Zerain to Zegama)
I took option 3, which began with a steep climb out of Besain, followed by followed by country roads with great views above and below. After that, a well-marked off-road trail towards Idiazabal (famous for its cheese).
The descent into Idiazabal was soon followed by a steep ascent, leading towards Segura. (where I was the main attraction for a group of pre-schoolers on an outing!).
I had plenty of time, so I followed the GR markers from Segura to Zerain (c.4kms). This was mostly off-road and very peaceful.
I briefly thought about staying in the tourist albergue in Zerain, but decided to continue to Zegama. I followed an impromptu and longer than expected off-road option (8kms), using Google maps. This was perhaps a little irresponsible, but it turned out fine (thanks to a very helpful local man). The path eventually joined a beautiful tree-lined country road, leading to the outskirts of Zegama.
I may or may not have taken the path described by @peregrino_tom here. Sorry this is so vague - it was all very 'in the moment.'
All in all, about 23kms from Besain to Zegama and I loved every minute.
I was glad to arrive at the Zegama Albergue, which was exactly as @WestKirsty described here.
I met my first and only pilgrim in the albergue - a Dutch man walking the Vasco in reverse. He warned me that the mountain was very treacherous in the rain and advised against undertaking it alone. I kept an open mind as his 'backwards' version probably had a steeper descent than the regular route. However, after a night of constant rain and dense cloud the next morning, I decided not to take any chances. Next time!
I didn't see much of Zegama, but enjoyed afternoon and morning snacks in Bar Txanton (thanks Kirsty for the recommendation). The little Eroski supermarket near the albergue was handy and well-stocked.
Alegría Dulantzi (or Salvatierra Agurain) to Vitoria Gasteiz.
There's a lot of road walking on these sections and a particularly uninspiring final approach to Vitoria. If you want to avoid this, and you don't mind missing the Romanesque churches and monastery (don't judge me
), there's a viable alternative on a nearby Via Verde (walking/cycling trail on an old railway line).
Not for everyone, but I really liked it. I'll do a separate post about this shortly. Here's a little taster in the meantime.
(A very different perspective on those ugly buildings!)
A few observations that might be helpful to others.
I don't usually complain about road-walking, but there's such a lot of it between Astigarraga/Hernani and Besain. That said, there are plenty of services (water, benches, parks, cafes, grocery stores, great public transport, food, polideportivos) and very friendly local people. Pilgrims are a small part of daily life here, but we're very warmly welcomed. In other words, there's a plus side to all that road-walking.
When in Tolosa: don't miss the amazing puppet museum! I walked from Astigarraga that day and took a few wrong turns as I chose not to use my phone in the rain. It was a long and tiring day. My grumpiness was quickly dispelled by the enchanting display of puppets and the passion of the person who welcomed me. It's hard to describe how special this place is.
The bar/cafeteria in the Hotel Bide Bide (beside the museum) has good and reasonably priced food. It's a useful option if you find yourself very hungry outside the normal Spanish dining times. I had hoped to eat in Ama (recommended by @SabsP and @VNwalking, so it must be good!) but it was closed.
Besain to Zegama: there are a few options for this section:
1. Road (GI-2637): a flat c.13kms. A good option for those seeking short daily distances, or wishing to continue beyond Zegama. Otherwise (IMO), it's just another day of road walking, when there are nicer alternatives!
2. Gronze route: via Olaberria, Idiazabal & Segura: a more undulating (and beautiful) 17kms, with a mix of terrain and environments.
3. Gronze route to Segura, GR or road to Zerain, then a choice of routes to Zegama (Gronze shows this as 20kms, which I think is by road from Zerain to Zegama)
I took option 3, which began with a steep climb out of Besain, followed by followed by country roads with great views above and below. After that, a well-marked off-road trail towards Idiazabal (famous for its cheese).
The descent into Idiazabal was soon followed by a steep ascent, leading towards Segura. (where I was the main attraction for a group of pre-schoolers on an outing!).
I had plenty of time, so I followed the GR markers from Segura to Zerain (c.4kms). This was mostly off-road and very peaceful.
I briefly thought about staying in the tourist albergue in Zerain, but decided to continue to Zegama. I followed an impromptu and longer than expected off-road option (8kms), using Google maps. This was perhaps a little irresponsible, but it turned out fine (thanks to a very helpful local man). The path eventually joined a beautiful tree-lined country road, leading to the outskirts of Zegama.
I may or may not have taken the path described by @peregrino_tom here. Sorry this is so vague - it was all very 'in the moment.'
All in all, about 23kms from Besain to Zegama and I loved every minute.
I was glad to arrive at the Zegama Albergue, which was exactly as @WestKirsty described here.
I met my first and only pilgrim in the albergue - a Dutch man walking the Vasco in reverse. He warned me that the mountain was very treacherous in the rain and advised against undertaking it alone. I kept an open mind as his 'backwards' version probably had a steeper descent than the regular route. However, after a night of constant rain and dense cloud the next morning, I decided not to take any chances. Next time!
I didn't see much of Zegama, but enjoyed afternoon and morning snacks in Bar Txanton (thanks Kirsty for the recommendation). The little Eroski supermarket near the albergue was handy and well-stocked.
Alegría Dulantzi (or Salvatierra Agurain) to Vitoria Gasteiz.
There's a lot of road walking on these sections and a particularly uninspiring final approach to Vitoria. If you want to avoid this, and you don't mind missing the Romanesque churches and monastery (don't judge me
), there's a viable alternative on a nearby Via Verde (walking/cycling trail on an old railway line).Not for everyone, but I really liked it. I'll do a separate post about this shortly. Here's a little taster in the meantime.
(A very different perspective on those ugly buildings!)
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one of the other photos looks very Baztan like - not surprising as not far away. Thanks again 
