Sue Blue Mountains
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Frances 2016
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Hi Sue, the monestary of Samos is a very nice place to visit.Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.
I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.
Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue
Thanks Kanga - will definitely check out the Kindle App. Cheers.The Camino Frances is a treasure trove of art and history - you could spend months if you chose to. Most is ignored and unexplored by walkers who are fixed on accommodation, food, doing the washing, social interactions with other pilgrims and getting to Santiago. Which is fine, but people do not know what they are missing when, for example, they just walk through Burgos, give the Cathedral a cursory glance, and out the other side. The Road to Santiago, A Complete Cultural Handbook (Gitlitz and Davidson) can be dowloaded on a Kindle App and is an invaluable guide to "unmissable" sites along the way. I'm a great fan of those hired audio guides too - worth getting whenever they are offered.
In terms of general planning, an extra night in the big cities (Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, León), allow time to see the church at Los Arcos, Navarette (and turn the lights on by puting some money in the box) where the retablos will blow your mind, ditto the church at Villarcalzar de Sirga. Actually this list just goes on and on....
Hi Sue, I wouldn't take the writings of the blessed John Brierley as gospel. I've found Zubiri to be a charming little place with a warm welcome for Pilgrim's and excellent facilities. Bits of the Camino pass through industrial and urban areas, bits through agricultural and wilder country. Its all the same Way.For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.
And if you've mustered up some Spanish, ask the locals. Folks in the pharmacias, I discovered (with all my Compeed purchases) usually speak excellent English. I did regret missing the Monastery in Samos.A very good point, thanks.
Leaving Triacastela take the alternate route through Samos. North of Samos the walk leaves LU-633 just past Teiguin and goes through a beautiful river valley that takes you to Aguiada and back on the main route to Sarria. I found this walk on 10/22 to be almost magical including running in to a local riding a donkey packing a couple of bags of chestnuts. No established water on the route but about half way you will find a natural spring coming down a hillside on the right side of the road. Buen Camino!Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.
I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.
Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue
... Nobody mentions this but the medieval pilgrims took the bus for these sections too. ...
And I thought you were new....It's me once again. I almost forgot the Royal Pantheon.
Places where you may want a full day to visit and rest (likely meaning "spend two nights"): Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Astorga, Santiago.
In Leon there is the gothic cathedral of course but during the camino I found a great appreciation for the romanesque period. The camino in Leon passes the Basilica of San Isidoro and attached to that is a museum that conatains books and other objects of that period but there were two things that absolutely fascinated me, the Royal Pantheon and the chalice of Dona Urraca, one of the Holy Grails that Europe is so full of. The Royal Pantheon is sometimes called the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art" and a recent book documented the chalice (and did such a job that it might be off display for awhile.) See links below.
Places to avoid: Consider (carefully choosing that word) avoiding the hike into Burgos, the one out of Leon and the one through Ponferrada. The pavement could ruin your walk. Nobody mentions this but the medieval pilgrims took the bus for these sections too.
For Burgos we walked past the airport and stayed at the Hotel Puerta Romeros in Villafria and used the bus that stops right there to visit the city for an afternoon and the next day. Then we walked the camino in reverse for about 45 minutes and at a spot with options we took the alternate route to go to the Rio Arianzon at Castanares, crossed the river and follwed it on its south bank past Burgos until it met up with the camino again. In Leon We walked the camino through the industrial area and somewhat farther and the pavement injured Peg so much we could go no farther for 5 days. In Ponferrada we took the bus to Camponaraya to avoid the pavement (made up for by the walk from Finisterre to Muxia; she's a trooper.)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chalice_of_Doña_Urraca
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_San_Isidoro
http://www.santogrialdeleon.org/en/basilica-of-san-isidoro/royal-pantheon
http://www.santogrialdeleon.org/en/
Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.
I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.
Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue
Astorga is wonderful. If you are interested and want to spend a bit of money I can give you the name of a great hotel and a couple of wonderful restaurants if you would like.The Museo Etnografica in Mansilla de las Mulas was a pleasant surprise. (I like to go to museums but usually breeze through quite quickly.) It is very well laid out, with explanations in Spanish and English, showing how people in that region have lived over the past hundreds of years. It set the stage nicely for walking through villages where I could start to recognize types of buildings and agricultural practices. It was worth waiting until the 10 a.m. opening, spending an hour or two at the museum, and still making it to Leon that day.
Definitely agree that the Museo Etnografica in Mansilla de las Mulas is excellent.The Museo Etnografica in Mansilla de las Mulas was a pleasant surprise. (I like to go to museums but usually breeze through quite quickly.) It is very well laid out, with explanations in Spanish and English, showing how people in that region have lived over the past hundreds of years. It set the stage nicely for walking through villages where I could start to recognize types of buildings and agricultural practices. It was worth waiting until the 10 a.m. opening, spending an hour or two at the museum, and still making it to Leon that day.
Thanks Tincatinker - I get what you mean about the book. I'm sure everyone's experience is different anyway and I will look at Zubiri with eyes seeking the charming, not condemning the mundane - anyway, that's my hope hey? Appreciate your thoughts.Hi Sue, I wouldn't take the writings of the blessed John Brierley as gospel. I've found Zubiri to be a charming little place with a warm welcome for Pilgrim's and excellent facilities. Bits of the Camino pass through industrial and urban areas, bits through agricultural and wilder country. Its all the same Way.
And a place to make a special visit? The diversion to Vilar de Donas and the Igrexa san Salvador a little before Palas de Rei is well worth the effort. The frescoes are exquisite.
Thanks jimabfalter, always glad of info so, yes, please pass on names of hotel and wonderful restaurants.Astorga is wonderful. If you are interested and want to spend a bit of money I can give you the name of a great hotel and a couple of wonderful restaurants if you would like.
Ah, Logrono. The most under-appreciated city on the Camino! Not just for its historic district and the San Matteo.... But forthe vibrant modern city on the other side of the Parque del Espolon. Reminds me of the vibrant Mexico City of the 60's, where I grew up.Also, if you treat yourself to a rest day, treat yourself also to a pension. That way you can, f.e., enjoy the Calle Laurel (tapas mile) in Logroño without curfew. Buen Camino, SY
And of the waether is nice, dipping your feet in the river that runs under the puente de la rabia and napping on the lawn next to it makes for a pleasant afternoon.You may want to rethink not stopping in the town of Zubiri. The next town beyond Zubiri is Larrsonna (not sure of the spelling) . It is about 10km ahead of Zubiri. It is a nice town but the services there are limited. I stayed one night there in the municipal albergue. Buen Camino.
Hello Sue, yes I am interested in hearing some of those replies, also I know these responses are all just ideas, but I love hearing all these ideas, with the plan that on my travels I may come upon a village and think "oh I heard of a great café or chapel or cheesemaker here, I will stop and investigate!" I would be happy if I finish my Camino having seen and stayed places that the masses have not stopped at. (though still finding myself attached to Brierly at the hip as a security blanket,) as this is my first Camino, and I am going solo. Please, keep Favorites lists coming. I leave STJPP April 1st, hope to see you out there. Buen CaminoHello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.
I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.
Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue
Hi Sue! I will be setting out in March too, the 15th from SJPdP. Thanks for starting this thread, some good info here! Maybe I'll see you along the way -Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.
I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.
Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue
Sounds lovely. sighAnd of the waether is nice, dipping your feet in the river that runs under the puente de la rabia and napping on the lawn next to it makes for a pleasant afternoon.
Another thumbs up for tapas bars in Logrono. It was our funnest extra day on the trip. We were there in September for the last day of some sort of festival of grapes......met by a marching band every time we stepped outside!! Very nice.
The Camino Frances is a treasure trove of art and history - you could spend months if you chose to. Most is ignored and unexplored by walkers who are fixed on accommodation, food, doing the washing, social interactions with other pilgrims and getting to Santiago. Which is fine, but people do not know what they are missing when, for example, they just walk through Burgos, give the Cathedral a cursory glance, and out the other side. The Road to Santiago, A Complete Cultural Handbook (Gitlitz and Davidson) can be dowloaded on a Kindle App and is an invaluable guide to "unmissable" sites along the way. I'm a great fan of those hired audio guides too - worth getting whenever they are offered.
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