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St Jean Pied De Port to Logrono

Steve Taylor

Member
Camino(s) past & future
June 2019 Sarria to Santiago Sept 2019 Logrono to Burgos Aug 2020 St Jean Pied De Port to Logrono
Bonjour / Hola!
I'm Steve from the UK and I'm walking from St Jean Pied De Port to Logrono from 26 June to 4 July next year. I would appreciate any recommendations for places to stay en route, as well as bars and restaurants that are popular with pilgrims along the way, especially in Pamplona, as I will be stopping off for a rest day there.
Thanks
 

Steve Taylor

Member
Camino(s) past & future
June 2019 Sarria to Santiago Sept 2019 Logrono to Burgos Aug 2020 St Jean Pied De Port to Logrono
I've got the Brierley book, which is useful, and I browse the various websites for recommendations. Just looking for up-to-date tips from fellow travellers.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances 2017
Planning for 2021
9
I've got the Brierley book, which is useful, and I browse the various websites for recommendations. Just looking for up-to-date tips from fellow travellers.
As S Yates says use the search function, it is the quickest way to (a) get the info you require
(b) not have to worry about the eventual complete change of subject. :D :D :eek:
 

jozero

Been there, going again...
Camino(s) past & future
CF x 3
Two of my favorite culinary stops in Pamplona are Bar Guacho for the extraordinary pintxos (aqui no tapas...) and Cafe Iruna for cordero (and also a famous Hemingway haunt). Great way to top up the tanks on a day off!
 

Steve Taylor

Member
Camino(s) past & future
June 2019 Sarria to Santiago Sept 2019 Logrono to Burgos Aug 2020 St Jean Pied De Port to Logrono
Thanks. I'll make a note of both places.
 

t2andreo

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
C/F: 2013, 2014
C/M: 2016
C/P: 2015, 2017
C/I: 2018
Voluntario: 2014 - 2019
You can even have your picture taken with Papa Hemingway at the side bar in Cafe Iruna. There is a slightly larger than life bronze of him with an elbow on the bar, in the corner. They have preserved a section of the original bar as it was, back in the day...

When you go in the main entrance go to the right. The old bar is through an archway on the right.
 

jozero

Been there, going again...
Camino(s) past & future
CF x 3
You can even have your picture taken with Papa Hemingway at the side bar in Cafe Iruna. There is a slightly larger than life bronze of him with an elbow on the bar, in the corner. They have preserved a section of the original bar as it was, back in the day...

When you go in the main entrance go to the right. The old bar is through an archway on the right.
Which I believe is also the same as the statue of him that is in El Floridita in Havana. What a storied life he lived...!
 

Mark McCarthy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2014 2015
Lourdes 2 SdC 2016
Sarria 2 SdC April&Oct 2016 & (April 2018)
Camino Baztan June 2017
Albergue Suseia in Zubiri has fantastic recommendtions. It is about an extra 400 metres but well worth it.
 

ginniek

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
frances 2017
Which I believe is also the same as the statue of him that is in El Floridita in Havana. What a storied life he lived...!
And I downloaded and quickly reread The Sun Also Rises to make sure it was not just local lore or a ploy for tourists. After a while I stopped counting the times the Cafe was mentioned and how many scenes in the very short book took place there. Besides the historic and literary importance, the food is pretty good and a full dinner (with wine) is reasonably priced. And it has maintained an early 20th century appearance.
 

steve 217

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino frances planning via del la plata
The pilgrim Hospital at trinidad de arre 6km outside Pamplona is lovely ,wonderful gardens and a hospitallero who defines old fashioned pilgrim hospitality.

He insisted on taking my rucksack carrying it for me to the Albergue and even gave me a hug .
It is my new favourite Albergue and reminded me why i keep being called back for my Camino fix .
Cant recommend enough i even emailed a week later to thank them .Long may it continue.
 

AlwynWellington

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
please see signature
@Steve Taylor , hi and welcome from me as well.

There is a saying one person's meat is another person's ....

You have already experienced some of the joys of walking in northern Spain and there is not much to challenge you after Puente-la-Reina / Gares except, possibly, daily distance.

But I have seen first hand, from Saint-Jean to Roncesvalles / Orreaga, lack of preparation marring the first several days, even to Pamplona. I talk of both the longish steep ascent and sudden descent.

So you can enjoy the bars and restaurants the better I suggest you consider a training regime that has you working towards achieving, before stopping for breakfast:
1) 15 km of distance covered, and
2) 400 metres of elevation gained.
Finding places for the second can difficult: I hear of people finding a tallish building and getting permission to use the stairs, both up and down.

I look forward to hearing of your joyful arrival at Logrono and, in due course, completing Burgos to Sarria. In that section your hill training (both up and down) will stand you in good stead.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2016), Norte (2017), Portuges (2018), Mozarabe (2019), Primitivo (2019), Via de La Plata (2
Bonjour / Hola!
I'm Steve from the UK and I'm walking from St Jean Pied De Port to Logrono from 26 June to 4 July next year. I would appreciate any recommendations for places to stay en route, as well as bars and restaurants that are popular with pilgrims along the way, especially in Pamplona, as I will be stopping off for a rest day there.
Thanks
Starting from Pamplona the best place for a night out before you begin the Camino is Calle San Nicolas off Plaza del Castillo. It is just packed with great tapas bars. In Puente La Reina we stayed in the Albergue de Los Padres Reparadores, which was basic but very nice. Really cheap and it has a really nice garden to chill in out the back. We had friends who stayed in Jakue who said that it was pretty good but much more expensive. We ate in the same place for lunch and dinner – Hotel Rural Bidean – lunch was a great priced Peregrino Menu, while the evening meal was very reasonable too.

I really loved Estella where we stayed in the Albergue Parochial San Miguel. It was very basic and a donativo. It is small and is run by volunteer hostaleros, who were fantastic and welcoming. There are a lot of little bars where you can eat a lot of tapas. Nowhere in particular sticks in my mind.

The guides all say that the next stop should be Torres del Rio but we stopped a kilometre short in Sansol where we stayed in the Albergue of that name. It was very good. Comfortable with a very cheap Menu and with a very cheap bar just across the plaza, which is literally just called Bar. Great Rioja, very, very cheap. To reinforce our decision all of the people that we talked to who had stayed in Torres del Rio said that it was very disappointing.

In Logroño we stayed in the Albergue de Los Peregrinos Albas. The only downside was that it is a little off the Camino. It is modern and very clean and comfortable. We lunched near the Cathedral where there are a lot of cheap, but good eateries. At night we went to Calle Laurel, party street, great time.
 

Dara H

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pamplona to Santiago & Fisterra (2014-2017)
Oloron to Puente la Reina (Arles/Aragones) (2018)
Great tapas in Otano on Calle San Nicolás in Pamplona. If you’re looking for a treat dinner on your Pamplona rest day, try Baserriberri also on San Nicolás.

El Palo de Avellano in Zubiri has a good communal dinner.

We also had a good night in Sansol. And a good dinner in la Mercería in Nájera.

Buen Camino.
 

David

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Moissac to Santiago Spring 2005 was the first foray.
Hi Steve - I think this a much better way of doing your research than just coldly searching through the forum for old posts - this way you get genuine up to date recommendations - and whether you take them up or not seems to me is irrelevant .. all part of the planning - way to go! (and it is fun for us too ;)).

So - my two for you ..... well, three - Pamplona - as said above, Calle San Nicholas .. get yourself into the old narrow alleyways where there are bars and restaurants and Spaniards and tourists, students, young, families, and pilgrims - a delight!!
(Eat where you see Spaniards, not tourists!!).

In Estella - if you fancy to treat yourself and take a private room instead of a refugio, go to
Pension Buen Camino
Calle San Nicolas, 27, Estella

small pension, rates 9.7 on Booking.com! - immaculately clean and comfortable and well prepped. Delightful husband and wife to look after you - they are kind, warm, cannot do enough to help you .. if you arrive as a pilgrim the moment they open the door to you they put a bottle of chilled sealed water into your hand - is a jewel .. and is on the Camino itself as you walk along in Estella. Think it is 30€ for single but can't quite remember - I slept sooo well!!!! I stayed there as was early in last year and I was freezing cold all the time and realised it was because I was getting ill ... oh!! They have brilliant hot central heating .. gave me the respite to heal a bit and carry on (as well as to wash and dry my smalls).
https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/buen-camino.es.html

Is small and also very popular so this is one of the few times I would say - get on booking.com a frew days before if you fancy it.

Many people stop just as they enter Puente La Reina ... but if you walk through and cross the medieval bridge there is a lane directly opposite and 100 metres or so up there is the refugio Santiago Apostol. Now, is a new build and the architect seems to have learnt a lot from late 30's German designs (!) so it isn't pretty - but is big and warm and friendly, staff are lovely ... very good firm beds, four to an alcove .. two-bed privates rooms to rent, upstairs area for heavy snorers, big communal area with great meals and wine - both really cheap, free wifi that actually works! - great bathrooms - gender separated - gardens (tenters welcome, including with dogs) and = and here is the thing - it has a swimming pool!! One of the hospitelaros, a huge strong genial smiling man with a teenage son now taller than him, from Columbia I think, is named Stalin ... how often is that going to happen?
http://www.alberguescaminosantiago....regrinos-de-santiago-apostol-puente-la-reina/

Enjoy your Camino - enjoy it all!!!

oh - ok, four ... in los Arcos you Must go to the evening Mass - doesn't matter if you are religious or not - inside the plain exterior is the most Extraordinary church .... and the priest there is a young man (well, young to me) who has learnt some simple sentences in a number of languages and after Mass calls pilgrims to one side of the altar, hands out pilgrim prayer cards in many languages and chats and then blesses you all ... 8pm.
 
Last edited:

SYates

Camino Fossil AD 1999, now living in Santiago de C
Camino(s) past & future
First: Camino Francés 1999
...
Last: Santiago - Muxia 2019

Now: http://egeria.house/
Parish albergue in the church of Santiago de Real in Logroño with communal dinner and pilgrims prayer could make for a great conclusion (for that year!) to your Camino!

BC SY
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2012, 2015, Portugues 2013, 2019, 2020, Ingles 2014, Norte 2016/2017/2018, Primitivo 2020
Bonjour / Hola!
I'm Steve from the UK and I'm walking from St Jean Pied De Port to Logrono from 26 June to 4 July next year. I would appreciate any recommendations for places to stay en route, as well as bars and restaurants that are popular with pilgrims along the way, especially in Pamplona, as I will be stopping off for a rest day there.
Thanks
Camino Michelin Restaurant Guide

The MICHELIN Guide has announced its Spain & Portugal 2019 Selection. Between the

Good news for famished peregrinos; with additional starred restaurant in Santiago as well as in Logrono and Leon; also the Molino de Urdaniz near Zubiri elevated to 2 stars!.

Michelin Restaurant Ratings System for Pilgrims
CategoryFormal Michelin CriteriaPilgrim SensePrice1)BookingDress Code
***"Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey"Where gods meet, even if only once200-300Essential & months in advance; these are world-renowned restaurantsJacket, at least ironed shirt/ shawl, no shorts
**"Excellent cooking, worth a detour"Sublime; words do not suffice100-200
*"A very good restaurant in its category"Not easy to justify, but peace is big50-100Best weeks before; crucial at weekend;Hiking shoes may feel odd
(B) Bib Gourmand"Exceptionally good food at moderate prices"A weekly treat for your feet30-50Check some days or evening beforeCasual; even smelly pilgrims welcome at tables outside
(P) Plate“Inspectors have discovered quality food.”Where food tastes only of itself15-30Just go, be ready to wait at peak hours
1)Typical Euro per person, drinks not included; 3-course meal or tasting menu


Altogether there are now 14 Michelin-starred restaurants available on or within few Km of CF. If you are prepared to consume food with lesser praise of Michelin Inspectors; the ‘Bib Gourmand’ and ‘Plate’ award categories bring 40 more restaurants into play; on more than half the CF stages you are now within short walk or taxi-ride reach of acclaimed food. Amongst these there are places you can eat for not much more than usual Bocadillo or “Menu del Dia”!.

You have them all listed (and linked) below; I also include an overview of the rating system.

Pilgrims on Camino Norte are of course more fortunate; with route through Basque Province being the finest gastronomic territory on earth; with density of top-rated restaurants only matched by Paris/New York/Tokyo; including several with 3 stars, so sadly yet lacking on CF. At that finer end a tasting menu is 220 Euro p/p or more (needless to say, drinks in addition).

Starred Restaurants‘Bib Gourmand’Michelin ‘Plate’
* Casa Marcelo
* A Tafona
B A Horta d’Obradoiro
B Ghalpón Abastos
B Café de Altamira
P Manso P Auga e Sal P A Maceta P Taberna Abastos P Don Quijote P Pedro Roca

Buen Camino!

Michelin Rated Restaurants on Camino Frances
(Note: Stage numbers E0-E33 based on ‘Etapas’ from www.gronze.com. Restaurants are on or within 1-2 km of CF waymarking, anywhere within towns on CF route; additionally (in brackets) starred restaurants up to 25km from CF route elsewhere. Restaurant rating system is explained in separate table below).
Stage/LocationRestaurant by Category/Rank
E0: St. Jean Pied-de-Port:* Les Pyrénées
E3: Huarte:P: Asador Zubiando
E3: Ilarratz/Urdaitz:** El Molino de Urdaniz
E4: Pamplona:
* Rodero * Europa B Abaco P Letyana P Baserriberri P Enekorri P Alhambra P Guria P Bodegón Sarria
E7: Logrono: * Ikaro * Kiro Sushi B La Cocina de Ramón P Umm P La Galeria P Tastavin P Tondeluna
E8: (Bodega Marques de Riscal, 24km Logrono):* Restaurante Marqués de Riscal
E8: (Moncalvillo, 10km Navarrete):* Venta Moncalvillo
E9: Santo Domingo de la Calzada:P Los Caballeros
E10: (Ezkaray, 14km Santo Domingo de la Calzada):** El Portal P Casa Masip : Echaurren Tradición
E12: Burgos:* Cobo Vintage B La Fábrica P Puerta Real P Blue Gallery P Casa Ojeda P La Favorita
E15: Fromista:P Hosteria de los Palmeros
E17: Villacázar de Sirga:P Mesón de Villasirga
E20: Leon:* Cocinandos * Pablo B Becook B LAV P Koi P Clandestino
E22: Astorga:B Las Termas
E23: Castrillo de los Polvazares:P Casa Coscolo
E25: Carracedelo:P La Tronera
E25: (Palacio de Canedo, 7km Cacabelos):B Palacio de Canedo
E33: Santiago de Campostella:
* Casa Marcelo * A Tafona B A Horta d’Obradoiro B Ghalpón Abastos B Café de Altamira P Manso P Auga e Sal P A Maceta P Taberna Abastos P Don Quijote P Pedro Roca
 

Nigel Clark

Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF May /June 2017
CF Sept / Oct 2019
You can even have your picture taken with Papa Hemingway at the side bar in Cafe Iruna. There is a slightly larger than life bronze of him with an elbow on the bar, in the corner. They have preserved a section of the original bar as it was, back in the day...

When you go in the main entrance go to the right. The old bar is through an archway on the right.
I passed through Pamplona on Monday 2nd September and went to pay my respects to Mr Hemingway only to find that the entrance under the archway was closed . I hope this is only temporary !
 

trecile

Camino Addict
Camino(s) past & future
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
I passed through Pamplona on Monday 2nd September and went to pay my respects to Mr Hemingway only to find that the entrance under the archway was closed . I hope this is only temporary !
When I was there that part of the restaurant wasn't staffed. We just sort of wandered in. It seemed crazy that they weren't promoting it.
 

t2andreo

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
C/F: 2013, 2014
C/M: 2016
C/P: 2015, 2017
C/I: 2018
Voluntario: 2014 - 2019
They are preserving it, IMHO. If you did not know to look, you would hot know it was there.

Also, if they promoted it, there would be too many non-paying tourists who only wanted a photo, and not a drink. Personally, I prefer i this way.

More visitors equal more wear and tear = more costs.
 

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