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I usually avoid the Lisbon vs Porto threads as the often bad rap the Lisbon leg receives ruffles my feathers a tad 🕊 but here goes...I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.
I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/
For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?
I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.
Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river
Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery
I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.
I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/
For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?
I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.
Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river
Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery
I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
Typo: sports = Porto! Apple autospell - grrr! nI liked Tomar but the cobblestones - not the asphalt - destroyed my feet. For some reason, I wasn’t crazy about Coimbra. Only started really enjoying the Caminho Portugues walking along the river out of sports. The albergues for the most part out of Lisboa were spacious, modern and really great. Very few walkers along the way, but that is the case with many trails, and was not a deal breaker for me.
So I will always, always give a resounding GO FOR IT to anyone who doubts the beauty, the delicious food and wine, the inexpensiveness, the friendliness, the history and and the culture of this lovely land. The CP is not a walk in the park, so if you want a cafe con leite every 10 km, this is not the Camino for you!
I walked from Lisbon to Finisterre via the central route in September 2017. I really enjoyed it until Porto then it seemed to have a different feel. From Lisbon there were not a lot of pilgrims and most of the albergues had plenty of beds, some were just about empty. From Porto it was crowded and I had to make reservations for accommodation. From Tui onwards it was unbearable and I couldn’t wait for it to be over.I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.
I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/
For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?
I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.
Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river
Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery
I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.
I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/
For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?
I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.
Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river
Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery
I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
Interesting thoughts, Laurie!
After our epic walk last year, we wanted to do another long walk, so as you know, we're starting in Lisbon. We had heard from many that we should start in Porto. I had been to Lisbon a few years ago, experienced Sintra and Cascais, but all without Rachel, so I wanted to share that part of Portugal with her.
Based on our experience last year, and in particular on the alternatives you suggested on the Norte, we're planning to walk alternatives to the 'official' Caminho from Lisbon to Porto.
Our plan is to walk from Lisbon to Estoril. From there walk the Caminho do Mar to Sintra. From Sintra, we will walk down to the coast to Praia das Maçãs. There, we will take the Trilho das Areias up to Peniche. We then take a bus to Obidos, where we're back on the Caminho do Mar to Caldas da Rainha (the stage after Peniche was too long for us, and we didn't fancy paying over 200€ a night in Praia d'el Rey). From Caldas da Rainha we'll get back onto the Trilho das Areias up to Nazare.
From Nazare to Fatima, and then from Fatima to Tomar, where we'll join the Caminho Português to Porto. After Porto, and we're still working on that, we intend to take the coastal route.
That should keep us busy for a few months.
Bom Caminho, Andrew
With four weeks holiday maybe you could start at Coimbra, or somewhere a few days before Porto.I’m going to be doing the Portuguese Camino in May next year but I’ll be starting in Porto. This choice is based simply on the time available to me - if I could walk from Lisbon I would, as from a personal point of view the longer the better. But I only have four weeks holiday, and I want to walk on to Finisterre too, so Porto it is.
Yes that’s true, but I do want to have a couple of days to look around Porto before I start, and a few days to recover at home before I return to work. It’s 26 hours to get from Sydney to Porto and I’ve always had a lot of difficulty sleeping on flights, so I know I won’t be in any fit state to set off the next day when I get to Portugal (or to go straight back to work after I get home).With four weeks holiday maybe you could start at Coimbra, or somewhere a few days before Porto.
I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.
I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
My two bobs;' worth, having just come off the CP Lisbon to Santiago, via the Coastal/Senda Littoral route...
If I were to do it again, I would probably start in Tomar - the first couple of days out of Lisbon, while interesting in their own right, didn't inspire me enough to wan to do it again. The way became more interesting and uplifting from around Tomar and this continued to Porto.
Post-Porto, the coastal route, while easier on the body than the inland route and (sometimes) a joy to be walking within sight of the ocean, didn't quite feel like a pilgrimage but more a walk in the park.
I dot regret having taken the route i did -I just don't plan on doing it again...
Thanks @LesR , that validates some of our planning decisions, joining the Caminho in Tomar after our excursions to the coast. And my wife will be happy to hear that the coastal route is more like a walk in the park
A few pilgrims in Melbourne who have walked in Portugal have told me they have gone back to Portugal to experience the alternative to what they walked, so we may well do the same: Coastal in 2020, and the Central another year.
Bom Caminho
I started the coastal route in 2016 and found it too poorly signed, too tough and too expensive. I made it to praia das macas, then took a bus back to Lisbon and started again on the traditional route. I loved every minute, the people, scenery, food, vino tinto in earthenware jugs, pasta de nata for breakfast. Yes the cobblestones hurt and I got anterior compartment syndrome in my left lower leg from the camber of the roads. But are we not pilgrims? Should there not be some pain? This is not supposed to be like a some long walk in your home country.
Lisa-W
I agree. Creating more pain and suffering does not help anyone.That makes no sense. Why would you invite pain? It does not make one better. I walked this route and torn up feet did not make me a better pilgrim or person.
Hello Laurie...I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.
I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/
For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?
I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.
Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river
Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery
I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
I started in Lisbon. It is a very different experience to walking the Camino Frances. I didn't do much advance reading so had few expectations except to walk. One big difference is the lower visibility of the church... it is there of course, but not as involved with pilgrims or the Camino as on the Frances. Many churches were closed, there was very few pilgrim masses. I also liked Coimbra and Tomar, and also Santaram and Azinhaga. I highly recommend a rest day in Coimbra, so much to see there. Another difference is way fewer pilgrims until Porto. I met two people the first day out of Lisbon, and in first week or so I often had the path to myself. I really liked the solitude and the time to be with myself. The number of pilgrims picks up in Tomar, because Fatima is near and some go to Fatima and then bus to Tomar to start the Camino. The Portuguese people are wonderful. I had warm welcomes everywhere.. people calling from their garden to ask if I'd like some water or food. There is fewer albergues but many 'hostals' - catering to all kinds of travellers including pilgrims. There appears to be no pack service until Porto so don't carry too muchHello Laurie...
Me again with my regular spot!!! The Tile Museum 8 kms out of Lisbon is fabulous!!! Right on the Camino. Beautifully laid out, interesting building, the displays thoughtful and include other European countries tile-making input.
The main downside for me was the air traffic noise which one endured for two days.
I totally agree that if I did it again I would start in Tomar where I would spent the whole day before starting ----touring the Templar Castle there.If I were to do it again, I would probably start in Tomar - the first couple of days out of Lisbon, while interesting in their own right, didn't inspire me enough to wan to do it again. The way became more interesting and uplifting from around Tomar and this continued to Porto.
We focused on talking about the actual camino after Lisbon but yes, Lisbon itself is enough reason to start in LisbonI would not have missed the opportunity to go through this stretch. Could not have gone to Portugal without being in Lisbon.
Yes, definitely considering it, especially in COVID times when domestic travel is preferable (though not right now during our state of emergency). It could be an option for Feb/March next year depending on how things play out. Training for the Mozárabe-VdlP!Hey, Nick! I think you considered walking the Fisherman's Trail, which I did in April 2019...any plans for it going forward? I loved it...you would too!
My least welcoming experience was the Saint Jacob church in Brussels. Having walked from Haarlem and just had a wonderful evening in Grimburgen Abbey the last thing I expected was the nonchalance of the "official".I loved the CP from Lisbon to porto. The cobbles are killing {walking into Porto I was singing away 'I hate cobblestones in the morning' - I know they are actually setts but that didn't fit the tune)
I enjoyed the smaller number of pilgrims which often meant a warmer welcome. But enough pilgrims that you had company. Most of the albergues were good.
Yes there is some road walking but I always felt it was balanced out by some lovely sections, the river and interesting towns. I think the only day I found ugh was walking into Porto but even then there was a steep climb up a roman road in woods.
It gave me more time to eat pastel de nata! And the food was good. Much more variety than what has become the standard pilgrim menu on CF and generally higher quality and cheaper
And to be honest I didn't expect a significant welcome at Lisbon cathedral. SJPdP is very different as it now deals with vast numbers of pilgrims. Then again I don't recall a significant pilgrim welcome in porto cathedral either!
I think that even since I walked 2-3 years ago more albergues have opened to address some of the long sections. Some of these longer distances did discourage but I don't think they are really an issue any longer such
I found the Sè in Lisbon to be very un-interested...I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.
I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/
For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?
I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.
Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river
Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery
I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
From this pageWe fly into Lisbon in 3 days time from Istanbul to start walking on the 1st of June and looking at accommodation prices is frightening compared to Turkey. I'm now considering starting us further out along the CP but have a question about picking up credentials outside of Lisbon. Can anyone suggest albergues or churches further along that carry them (I'm happy to collect sellos on a sheet of paper till then if necessary). I know some knowledgeable pilgrim out there has the answer to my query.
Since you are going to spend some time in Lisbon (at least that’s what I’m inferring from your dates), I would just go either to Igreja dos Mártires in Chiado or the Cathedral. Both sell the really lovely credentials designed by Via Lusitana!We fly into Lisbon in 3 days time from Istanbul to start walking on the 1st of June and looking at accommodation prices is frightening compared to Turkey. I'm now considering starting us further out along the CP but have a question about picking up credentials outside of Lisbon. Can anyone suggest albergues or churches further along that carry them (I'm happy to collect sellos on a sheet of paper till then if necessary). I know some knowledgeable pilgrim out there has the answer to my query.
From this page
Credenciais do Peregrino – Caminhos Santiago
Turismo do Alentejowww.caminhosdesantiagoalentejoribatejo.pt
It states that the credential is available in Santarém, at the Diocesan Museum at the Santarém Cathedral. That's only a few days out of Lisboa.
As for the prices in Lisboa, it IS high season and it IS an incredibly popular tourist spot. That being said, there are a lot of less-tourist-oriented accommodations in the city that are less pricey as well. What were you hoping to pay? It would be a shame to miss seeing Lisboa, an incredible city!
Just be warned that any of the bigger places like Tomar and Coimbra are likely to be fairly pricey in June since you're getting into prime tourist season. Staying in the smaller towns is probably more friendly to your caminho budget.Thank you so much guys, that's what I hoped. We spent quite a bit of time in Lisbon, and Portugal in general after one of our caminos so I won't feel so bad if we head out a bit further on. We are meeting up in Porto with our Quebec Camino family we met on the CF in 2017 and our daughter is flying in from Sydney while she's on Uni holidays (yep, it's been that long!) and we'll all walk to Santiago and back to Porto. I'm so happy to be back on the Camino!!!!!!
Hi, my husband has just broken his arm, so it looks like he has to take the train and I will cycle alone from Lisbon to Porto. We plan on meet-ups every 2 days in the towns along the aCamino that are served by trains. I’m an experienced cyclist, but I wonder if you have any advice for me ? In October am I likely to meet many other pilgrims walking or cycling? Any particularly tough sections ? I was led to believe it was hilly, but it seems there are many road sections and its a flat route ? Thank you if you respond or other do.I have walked the CP from Porto to SdC twice and bicycled Lisbon to SdC once. The bicycle was used in lieu of walking due to recovering from a broken leg.
If you have the choice between walking the CP from Lisbon or Porto I would recommend Lisbon. The route between Lisbon and Porto is incredible and very different from the Porto to SdC sections. The combination of the two makes for a great experience of Portugal. Even though I am familiar with the CP I intend to walk Lisbon to SdC to Muxia again.
I would say that the only difficulties of the CP are the Portuguese cobbles and crazy drivers. You will really see that difference after crossing into Spain. Interesting side note: the Portuguese drivers are far more tolerant of cyclists than pedestrians.
In the southern part, Santarém and Tomar are probably good choices. Both are a reasonable size with a variety of choices of accommodation, and for you "en bike," a couple of days apart. Between them, the route diverges from the railway so they wouldn't be great choices. Tomar is actually on a spur rather than the north-south Lisboa/Porto line, so he will have to backtrack an hour or so on the train to Entroncamento, and transfer onto a different line to head further north past Tomar, but not a big deal.Hi, my husband has just broken his arm, so it looks like he has to take the train and I will cycle alone from Lisbon to Porto. We plan on meet-ups every 2 days in the towns along the aCamino that are served by trains. I’m an experienced cyclist, but I wonder if you have any advice for me ? In October am I likely to meet many other pilgrims walking or cycling? Any particularly tough sections ? I was led to believe it was hilly, but it seems there are many road sections and its a flat route ? Thank you if you respond or other do.
Riding from Lisbon to Porto in October will be really nice. I went in Sept of 2016 and we encountered very few people and no one else on bicycles until we got to Porto. There were no particularly tough sections. There are climbs but nothing that bothered me a bit and I was carrying about 25 pounds, so my bike probably weighed 50 to 60 pounds. I thought the climbing was nice and never that long. The first day, between Lisbon and Santarem, you will ride through some farms and it could get muddy for some stretches. Other than that we were on the road most of the time. The road was good but in some remote hilly sections it is narrow so you have to be aware and stick to the shoulder.Hi, my husband has just broken his arm, so it looks like he has to take the train and I will cycle alone from Lisbon to Porto. We plan on meet-ups every 2 days in the towns along the aCamino that are served by trains. I’m an experienced cyclist, but I wonder if you have any advice for me ? In October am I likely to meet many other pilgrims walking or cycling? Any particularly tough sections ? I was led to believe it was hilly, but it seems there are many road sections and its a flat route ? Thank you if you respond or other do.
This really helped me. I was always planning on flying into Lisbon, looking around for a day or two, taking train into Coimbra and looking around, and then start my Camino from Porto. I have not purchased air tickets yet but now after reading and agreeing with your Pros of #s 1, 2, 6 and 7, I will start in Lisbon. Especially your #1 reason really resonated with me.I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.
I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/
For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?
I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.
Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river
Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery
I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
Can I add another reason to the excellent list of Peregrina2000?Especially your #1 reason really resonated with me.
Thank you for the pep talk. I am so happy that I found this thread and that people are validating, confirming, encouraging and helping in my decision.Enjoy your Camino! I also just finished walking from Lisbon and it was amazing. Sure the Roman Roads and cobblestones eat feetI loved more of the solitude from Lisbon to Porto, and like others have said amazing friendly people, great food that was cheap (especially if you eat where the locals do and also the supermarkets like Pingo Doce always had pretty good food in their cafeterias that was very affordable). Actually received very warm welcomes in churches in the small towns and the priests were always willing to talk and provide a stamp (stamps were not always out in the open), especially after mass. We were just walking by one church in a village and the priest came out and opened the church for us and told us some history. I would do that route again.
Thank you. If any updates before March 23rd, it will be much appreciated!One heads up is that the route from Lisbon will be re-routed to follow a boardwalk along the Tejo. This has been in the works for several years.
This means that Alpriate and its albergue will not be on the caminho, so there are plans to close it.
I don’t have a definite announcement but have heard from the horse’s mouth that it will be closing.
Hi Samos.Enjoy your Camino! I also just finished walking from Lisbon and it was amazing. Sure the Roman Roads and cobblestones eat feetI loved more of the solitude from Lisbon to Porto, and like others have said amazing friendly people, great food that was cheap (especially if you eat where the locals do and also the supermarkets like Pingo Doce always had pretty good food in their cafeterias that was very affordable). Actually received very warm welcomes in churches in the small towns and the priests were always willing to talk and provide a stamp (stamps were not always out in the open), especially after mass. We were just walking by one church in a village and the priest came out and opened the church for us and told us some history. I would do that route again.
Sports = PortoI liked Tomar but the cobblestones - not the asphalt - destroyed my feet. For some reason, I wasn’t crazy about Coimbra. Only started really enjoying the Caminho Portugues walking along the river out of sports. The albergues for the most part out of Lisboa were spacious, modern and really great. Very few walkers along the way, but that is the case with many trails, and was not a deal breaker for me.
Oh yes to less comparisons/judgements. Here, and in daily life. I've followed Camino Frances and Caminho Portuguese and lots of other travel by car, train, plane, and sailboat. Feel my life has been made so rich through all the things I've seen, experienced, people I've met... "Viva la difference" might be my motto.......... And of course the Caminos are a very special kind of walk.Dear Laurie and All
A wee 'chime in' here - a peregrina from Lisboa to SdC - May 2014 (before those spiffy boardwalks appeared)
It's perhaps a 'fruitless' debate if one would look for a 'winner'.
In my experience of life in general and Portuguese Caminho in particular - much has to do with ones intention/s, preferences/biases, perception/s and attitude/s.
I for one LOVED the Portuguese caminho for what it is and how it shaped me (aka the echoes of this pilgrimage are still with me and reverberate).
Considering starting in Porto was never an issue - it was to start at Lisboa. Period. I wanted to 'swim/bathe' in the country/atmosphere, not just having a toe-dip.
That's just my preference.
For e.g. some prefer to just celebrate Christmas-season On Dec 24 and 25th - and on the 26th, the tree will be de-decorated and is out the door presto.
I for one start with 1.Advent Sunday, Samichlaus (Dec 6th), etc and conclude with Epiphany, Jan 6th.
It's a peaceful, in-drawn time, not much boisterousness, but lots of candles, Panetone, Stollen, some gifts, etc.
That's just what rings my chimes. Who's to say that the chimes rung on just Dec 24 and 25th would be any less enjoyable/meaningful?
So --- Sure - the cobblestones are bloody murder - but somehow there became part of it too. And as i knew of them prior to the pilgrimage (due to multiple prior Portugal sojourns) - I prepared w/ good footwear and insoles (Montrail, as i recall. Even had a spare-set of silicone insoles)
The complaint of much road-walking i never understood. I walked many a mile through fab countryside, fields, forests, etc.
I encountered a woman who lamented the drag from Azambuja to Santarem along the busy roads. Which had me puzzled - as I had walked the same points (from A to S) but through lovely countryside and encountered the most spectacular poppy fields i had ever seen in my life.
Turns out - she had mis-read the map.
Of course - laments then would amount to: "PC has lots of road-walking" and not the less flattering, but more honest: "I am too bloody daft to read a map properly".
Am not aiming to convince anyone to do or not do XYZ.
everything has light and shadow sides, that's just the nature of life on this planet.
I just don't go along with statements or claims that a "one course meal" equals a "five course meal", or a 'three course meal of chinese food'' is the same as a 'three course meal of persian food" - as an example.
The experience is different - but if and when anyone is happy with a one course meal - who am I do debate or discuss that choice?
If the PC from Porto is the ticket for you - go right ahead.
wherever you start walking from - I wish you a blessed pilgrimage -
to me the caminho was especially precious when i realised that the Way walked me ... instead of the 'me' walking the Way.
(and as an aside - i am aiming for living less on the 'comparative mode' - when everything is measured, compared, quantified - and live with life as it is, presenting itself now and here wherever i might live, sit, walk, pilgrim, write. )
saluti, C
When I look at a Google map, it would be easy enough to continue along the divided, Alameda dos Oceanos, instead of turning toward the Rio Tejo, and keep heading northward as it becomes the Via do Oriente, and meet up at the Caminho, under the bridge of the A30. I drew this alternative on this map, for anyone walking during the closure, in June or July of 2023. The alternative is in orange, the route now in blue and in red, the future route that you describe on the bridge across the Rio Trancão.First week of August there will be works at the Parque das Naçoes and both caminhos to Fátima and Santiago are closed and there are no alternatives so the only possibility is to skip the part from Lisbon to Sacavém or even further.
there is a Youth Festival that will be attended by the Pope.
When I look at a Google map, it would be easy enough to continue along the divided, Alameda dos Oceanos, instead of turning toward the Rio Tejo, and keep heading northward as it becomes the Via do Oriente, and meet up at the Caminho, under the bridge of the A30. I drew this alternative on this map, for anyone walking during the closure, in June or July of 2023. The alternative is in orange, the route now in blue and in red, the future route that you describe on the bridge across the Rio Trancão.
Thank God! I HATE café con leche!The CP is not a walk in the park, so if you want a cafe con leite every 10 km, this is not the Camino for you!
Excellent!! All the more for me!Thank God! I HATE café con leche!
This seems unlikely. The new-route start in Lisboa, particularly around the new bridge north of the Plaza of Nations, is likely closed, and Fatima is probably even busier than usual, but there is no way for them to "close the caminho." Plan your start accordingly, if it's in the next week or so.Caminho de Santiago e Fátima, continua fechado sem alternativas ou informação para peregrinos, POR CAUSA DA OBRAS DA JMJ. David da Irlanda.
Camino de Santiago and Fátima, remains closed without alternatives or information for pilgrims, BECAUSE OF WYD WORKS. David from Ireland.
I am not sure if wikiloc is as popular in Portugal as it is in Spain, but there are several tracks for Aveiro to Porto.We want to start from Aveiro, Portugal next September. I am assuming about three days to reach Porto. From there we will walk the inland route to Santiago. Are there any hiking trails to follow rather than just highway to reach Porto from Aveiro? Help wanted.
You can use the mapy.cz app. It will direct you to the Camino from Aveiro.We want to start from Aveiro, Portugal next September. I am assuming about three days to reach Porto. From there we will walk the inland route to Santiago. Are there any hiking trails to follow rather than just highway to reach Porto from Aveiro? Help wanted.
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