Switch from Senda Litoral to Coastal?

[Kgaynor]

Today I walked (solo) from Porto to Vila do Conde along the Senda Litoral. It was almost a full 9 hours in near 30 degree heat - my pace is pretty damn slow. I saw 2 - 4 pilgrims my whole day. It was beautiful scenery, but unbearable heat & loneliness. I wasn’t expecting that at all.

Tomorrow I’m heading to Esposende and I’m hoping it will be better. Maybe the heat won’t be as intense? Maybe it’s my first Camino blues and my body isn’t used to it?

I was going to along the coast after Caminha, (to Oia & Baiona) but now I’m thinking I should cut in towards Valenca. Should I cut in after Esposende?

I need to know if things will get better? I’m feeling a little overwhelmed.

 

[Glamgrrl]

We found the Coastal route much more pleasant to walk but neither route super populated with pilgrims. We did tend to meet them in towns or when we stopped to eat and about halfway formed a small pod which was nice. Did have to benefit of walking with my spouse so I wasn't alone. Hope you find a good path for you.

 

[calfenerich]

Hello From Porto pilgrim! I live here and we expect cloudy and rainy weather on the coast, up to Viana do Castelo until the end o the week, with 21°C max. I'm preparing my body for my first Camino on exactly the same steps.
If you would like to avoid some broken catwalks and other obstacles during moderate rain, I suggest to you to cut in after Esposende.
Buen Camino!

 

[Kgaynor]

Thank you everyone. I’m 55 and not in the best of shape. I’ve stopped for a coffee and croissant along the way to Esposende. The cooler temperatures help a lot! I will cross over to the central route tomorrow. There were many broken boardwalks yesterday, which meant a lot of time walking in sand.

 

[dougfitz]

Thank you everyone. I’m 55 and not in the best of shape. I’ve stopped for a coffee and croissant along the way to Esposende. The cooler temperatures help a lot! I will cross over to the central route tomorrow. There were many broken boardwalks yesterday, which meant a lot of time walking in sand.

I saw your earlier post last night. It sounds like things might be getting better. What did puzzle me is why anyone would attempt what I suspect was a 34 km day when the forecast conditions were so hot. Will that experience encourage you to re-think your stages when similar conditions are forecast? I think that would be one of the first things that I would be doing, and keeping an eye on the weather forecast. I have an app called Windy loaded that provides good forecasting, but there are many other sources for local weather.

You're l likely to find that in a few days your stamina will also improve, and that will help make things easier.

I hope things keep going in the right direction for you as you keep walking.

 

[Kgaynor]

Let’s say foolishness, folly and arrogance. Plus I’m still working and don’t have as many days off as I wish.

 

[dougfitz]

Let’s say foolishness, folly and arrogance. Plus I’m still working and don’t have as many days off as I wish.

I can understand. I did most of my earlier pilgrimages before I retired, but do recall the pressure that can create.

If I did learn one thing, if you are keen to get a Compostela, make sure that you have time to walk the last 100 km. Take a bus or taxi rather than walk an earlier stage to make sure that you have the time to do that. I know some people might object to this strategy, but I am not one of them. The Pilgrim Office rules are quite clear about the qualification being the last 100 km for walkers, and the evidence they require is to see two stamps each day you were walking that.

 

[Kgaynor]

Thanks for the advice. I’m not going to give you any grief for what is solid advice. I’m almost at Esposende and will look at the state of my feet. I suspect a rest day is in order.

 

[Phil&Barb]

We walked the Coastal Camino in late September and after an exhausting day getting to Esposende, we opted the next day to take an Uber to Viana do Castelo and had a free day to explore that delightful town. We were then refreshed to continue on the coastal route to Caminha (another delightful town) where we then followed the trail along the south side of the Minho River to Valenca and Tui. We were very pleased with that decision.

 

[Rickcrna]

Just finished the stretch between Esposende and Viana do Castelo with a night in Antas. Pretty rough going in places with a few steep hills, lots of cobblestone paths and some rocky wooded trails esp between Antas and Viana. Taking an extra day in Viana for rest tomorrow. Temps were cooler today.

Rick

 

[NancyZ]

Thank you everyone. I’m 55 and not in the best of shape. I’ve stopped for a coffee and croissant along the way to Esposende. The cooler temperatures help a lot! I will cross over to the central route tomorrow. There were many broken boardwalks yesterday, which meant a lot of time walking in sand.

You can do it!

 

[Camembert]

after Esposende is no waymarked cut to the central route sooner than in Caminha so there are some stages ahead for you.
in Viana de Castelo you could take the train for a couple of stops in the direction of Barcelos and Porto and leave the train at Tamel
outside the station you are direct on the Central route and about 6 kms away from Casa da Fernanda, the best privat albergue at the entire Caminho Portugues.
phone her in advance. It is very busy there now and every night the 20 beds are complete.

 

[Elle Bieling]

I like the idea of a rest day in Esponde! Put your tired feet in the ocean and collect your energy. Then make a decision! Either way you choose is beautiful, so there will be no wrong decision! Let us know how you do!

 

[Rickcrna]

Can someone describe the trail between Caminha and Valenca along the Minho River?
It looks to be about 16 miles. Any suggestions for an overnight location/stay half way? Thanks!

Rick

 

[Wandalina]

Today I walked (solo) from Porto to Vila do Conde along the Senda Litoral. It was almost a full 9 hours in near 30 degree heat - my pace is pretty damn slow. I saw 2 - 4 pilgrims my whole day. It was beautiful scenery, but unbearable heat & loneliness. I wasn’t expecting that at all.

Tomorrow I’m heading to Esposende and I’m hoping it will be better. Maybe the heat won’t be as intense? Maybe it’s my first Camino blues and my body isn’t used to it?

I was going to along the coast after Caminha, (to Oia & Baiona) but now I’m thinking I should cut in towards Valenca. Should I cut in after Esposende?

I need to know if things will get better? I’m feeling a little overwhelmed.

Im literally just back from the coastal porto to Santiago. I understand completely what you are saying. First day was beautiful but extremely exposed to the sun i was very badly burned without even realising it.

I found the first two days tough it felt a bit monotonous but things did start to improve. More variation in landscape. The walk to Oia from la guarda is beautiful give yourself some time to sit with a picnic

I started 22nd April and while there were lots of walkers coming out of Porto, it really didn't seem very sociable. Most seemed to be in groups or couples.
Maybe i was unlucky.

Again it did improve, make an effort to stay in hostels the first few nights it helps, also i think maybe its a lot of people's 1st camino so if you want to chat don't wait for someone else to say hello say hi first.
Of course maybe you or they are not doing it to meet or connect with people but i think the camaraderie really enhances the experience.

Hope this helps

 

[Kgaynor]

One of the biggest things I learned over the last couple of days was to not get swept up in the pilgrim talk or pressure to go as far as you can each day. Unwittingly, I succumbed to that pressure. The Brierley book and countless blogs & videos outlines stages or recommend legs of the journey. While the Brierley book has tons of great information (recommended hostels, restaurants, historical & cultural significance of what you are walking by, elevation maps, etc….), at some point the stages feel prescriptive. Not in an overt way, but you begin to see the itinerary as what one has to do. Sometimes you buy into the stages because you don’t have the luxury of walking as slow as you want or need to. I am getting a ride to Tui and will walk 10-15km/ day. I will spend the time thinking and not about ‘can my body make it to the next place’.

 

[Rickcrna]

It seems many pilgrims make their route decisions largely based on the time they have available and the desire to arrive in SdC to receive a Compostela. Also, many pilgrims walk longer distances in a day while only carrying a small day pack and having their larger packs transported ahead. Carrying a full 20 lb pack definitely slows the pace esp for us older folks. We’ve also seen a few able bodied pilgrims make generous use of taxis to circumvent difficult parts of the route. We have found targeting our sweet spot of about 15km/day to work out the best so far and booking accommodations two days ahead. Buen Camino!

Rick

 

[Kgaynor]

Disabled bodies can sometimes be visible and not visible. This walk is equally a physical and mental challenge. If someone needs to take a bus, train, or taxi ….for whatever their reason, we have to assume that their reasoning is sound for their circumstances.

As they say, everyone does their own Camino.

 

[Camembert]

Can someone describe the trail between Caminha and Valenca along the Minho River?
It looks to be about 16 miles. Any suggestions for an overnight location/stay half way? Thanks!

Rick

From Caminha you can walk after two or so kms on a new ( it was there when I walked in 2019) path, the Ecopista. It leads to Valença do Minho to hit the central route
Halfway you arrive in Vila Nova de Cerveira where is a privat albergue. Very nice.

 

[Olimpia]

Thank you everyone. I’m 55 and not in the best of shape. I’ve stopped for a coffee and croissant along the way to Esposende. The cooler temperatures help a lot! I will cross over to the central route tomorrow. There were many broken boardwalks yesterday, which meant a lot of time walking in sand.

Hi I am following your steps next week. Please keep me posted. I am afraid I may have to do the same if the heat is unbearable. Thank you

 

[Kgaynor]

Hi I am following your steps next week. Please keep me posted. I am afraid I may have to do the same if the heat is unbearable. Thank you

I ended up taking a bus from Esposende to Ponte de Lima. I’m very happy with my decision. I’ve enjoyed the community of pilgrims, the varied terrains & more amenities between major towns.

 

[joeytheboy]

We walked the Coastal Camino in late September and after an exhausting day getting to Esposende, we opted the next day to take an Uber to Viana do Castelo and had a free day to explore that delightful town. We were then refreshed to continue on the coastal route to Caminha (another delightful town) where we then followed the trail along the south side of the Minho River to Valenca and Tui. We were very pleased with that decision.

Thanks for this.I think I may have to do similar to that as I on the same route as you in 2 weeks.Obviously I'll see how I'm doing at the time,I am a regular walker and I may be fine,but I'm 78 and will be being careful and I'm no hero.

 

[Kgaynor]

I am now at Pontevedra. The shorter days have done me a world of good. I start early (between 6-7) and get to my next destination around 1pm. It gives me a chance to shower, wash some clothes, explore the town or rest (as I am doing today). I have learned a lot over the last several days that will make my next camino more enjoyable!

Go slow. Enjoy your time. Stop for second breakfast. Take pictures. Keep your feet dry - change your socks halfway through your walk.

 

[Olimpia]

I am now at Pontevedra. The shorter days have done me a world of good. I start early (between 6-7) and get to my next destination around 1pm. It gives me a chance to shower, wash some clothes, explore the town or rest (as I am doing today). I have learned a lot over the last several days that will make my next camino more enjoyable!

Go slow. Enjoy your time. Stop for second breakfast. Take pictures. Keep your feet dry - change your socks halfway through your walk.

Enjoyed your comments. I am leaving Texas Monday arriving Tuesday at Porto and plan to start my coastal Camino Wednesday. How is the weather? Hesitating about what to bring if it's not going to be too cold. Also, did you start walking at the cathedral in Porto or bypassed the industrial area. I read that most pilgrims omit this part. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Kgaynor]

Enjoyed your comments. I am leaving Texas Monday arriving Tuesday at Porto and plan to start my coastal Camino Wednesday. How is the weather? Hesitating about what to bring if it's not going to be too cold. Also, did you start walking at the cathedral in Porto or bypassed the industrial area. I read that most pilgrims omit this part. Thank you for sharing.

I walked the Senda Litoral going along the water out of Porto. It was gorgeous (I also live in a landlocked area so it was important that I get in some seaside)!!! I got to Vila do Condo my first day and then Esposende the next. Both during very hot days - nearly 30C. I honestly wasn’t prepared for the heat or the distance. If I had been smarter, I would have stopped at Labruge.

It all depends on your fitness level, the weather & your ability to be flexible. I have a job to get back to, so I’m a bit tied to the amount of time I can be away.

 

[Rickcrna]

Olimpia;

We started in Porto on April 28th and walked the Senda Litoral/Coastal and am now in Nigran, about 15km from Vigo. The weather has been fantastic and mostly very comfortable….upper 60’s to mid-70’s. Always get a nice sea breeze off the ocean. A light jacket is warranted for evenings and if you’re starting the walk before the sun gets too high. The sun is intense so bring some sunscreen. If you have a light weight long sleeved top, that will keep the sun off your arms. The coastal route will merge with the central once we get to Redondela. Absolutely have no regrets about taking our route. Not many pilgrims, easy to book accommodations, and stunningly beautiful coast line. There are plenty of challenging hill climbs along the way but much of it is pretty level. Buen Camino!

Rick

 

[Olimpia]

Olimpia;

We started in Porto on April 28th and walked the Senda Litoral/Coastal and am now in Nigran, about 15km from Vigo. The weather has been fantastic and mostly very comfortable….upper 60’s to mid-70’s. Always get a nice sea breeze off the ocean. A light jacket is warranted for evenings and if you’re starting the walk before the sun gets too high. The sun is intense so bring some sunscreen. If you have a light weight long sleeved top, that will keep the sun off your arms. The coastal route will merge with the central once we get to Redondela. Absolutely have no regrets about taking our route. Not many pilgrims, easy to book accommodations, and stunningly beautiful coast line. There are plenty of challenging hill climbs along the way but much of it is pretty level. Buen Camino!

Rick

Rick, Thank you so much for the information. Very useful since I am packing now. Hope you continue to enjoy your Camino.

 

[702Jenn]

We walked the Coastal Camino in late September and after an exhausting day getting to Esposende, we opted the next day to take an Uber to Viana do Castelo and had a free day to explore that delightful town. We were then refreshed to continue on the coastal route to Caminha (another delightful town) where we then followed the trail along the south side of the Minho River to Valenca and Tui. We were very pleased with that decision.

I know this post is a month old, but I am in your same situation. I'm lying in my hostel with aching feet. Vila Cha to Esposende was a rough one!! I might take an Uber to Viana like you did, thanks for the idea!!