- Time of past OR future Camino
- CF 2023 from Bayonne.
Camino Podiensis & CF 2026
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Who is your provider? Let us know if you find out what the issue was. I'm heading over next month, also from Ontario, and was planning to use a Spanish e-sim. I don't want the same thing to happen to me!Day 12 - short 11kms walk to Najera to regroup
Slept fitfully. Was cold in the room. The one time I would have appreciated my sleeping bagso I slept with my puff jacket. But had no socks or long pants on so .
I’m glad I’ll have the time today to plan ahead. Pilgrims are all talking about how busy it is. It’s more than the long weekend.
I thought all this time I was using my esim but no…yikes I was using my Canadian provider and they charge $15 a day. So I managed to spend 90 min with them on a chat to credit me that amount and they did. Yay for my tenacity and their willingness to credit me.
So no physical sim in my phone now. I had to take it out. That was the deal. Hopefully I’ll figure out what’s wrong with my esim install. The lady in the chat box this morning from that provider asked me if I had the app installed on my phone… I answered. That’s how I’m talking to you…on your app so I’m a little discombobulated this morning. So…need a good shake it off song.
End of day 12 - very short notice 10k, 15.7 total
Last night I could have used my sleeping bag. It wa cold in the room. Everyone had theirs.
Najera is a beautiful little city and arriving early gave me the time to plan for the next week.
Big day tomorrow, walking straight through to Granon, a total of 28 kms and it’s supposed to be 29 by early afternoon. So I’m going to get up very early and leave my 6 am the latest. Bought stuff for breakfast and lunch at the supermercado. Soaked my feet in the river and my feet thanked me. Two small blisters on 2nd toe of each foot. Bought more foot supplies as I was running low.
I had the quiet day I needed. Shaved my legs and It was definitely time. I could almost backcomb the hair.k on them. Another few days and it would have been French braids
After Granon it’s Tosanto then Atapuerca.
Early on into my walk this morning a wave of gratitude went through my heart and I started to weep. All these years of wanting and waiting. Felt very blessed this morning. So going to bed with this song. It’s one of my favorites because it’s timeless, like this Camino will be for me.
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End of day, 13 - 27.7 kms, and 28.7 total
What. A. Day!!! Started out smooth and easy going. Little cafe con leche (hereafter called Señor CCL). Then fresh orange juice at Ciruena and my snacks. Then onto Santo Domingo de Calzada to eat my sandwich and foot care. Turns out my new insoles I bought in Najera are super comfortable for my forefoot but they are thicker and so created a hot spot and later this morning a 25 cent piece sized blister on the side of my left heal.
The crazy adventure started after that. I had not filled up on water at lunch and thought I would see a water fountain coming out of town. Wrong. So I had about 100ml of water left so I rationed like I was in the desert. Sips only. I’m about 1.5 kms in what I think is the green route to Granon when I see a big tractor come towards me and he tells me I’m going the wrong way. I show him the map of the green route and he swirls his hand to show all the land around him and says it’s his. He says I have to go back as I’m not going to Granon. By this time I’ve been walking close to 7 hrs and I’m parched and pooched. Since he was going the direction I had come from I asked him if I could get a ride. His face took pity on me and he told me to hop on which I did with great difficulty as I could not lift my leg high enough for that first step lol. And that’s when I had my very own Dustin Hoffman “Tootsie” moment. Hat brim flapping in the wind and me hanging on for dear life.
He dropped me off and the green route appeared about a km later. This young farmer that I did not even get his name was explaining to me how all those fields not planted was due to the fact that there is just not enough water for all his fields.
I told him I would say a prayer at mass tonight for him. And then parched as I was, two pilgrims sitting in the shade having big slices of some melon gave me a slice which was so kind.
The atmosphere here, the shared meal and song. Our common goal. The mass. The candle being passed around and us saying what is in our hearts. Very very touching.
It was a perfect day in all its imperfections. The sunrise was spectacular and the warmth in the dining room could have heated up the whole church.
I leave you with the perfect song for today. One I’ve been holding on to for the right moment. It certainly is that moment now.
That sky is glorious. Happy walking.End of day, 13 - 27.7 kms, and 28.7 total
What. A. Day!!! Started out smooth and easy going. Little cafe con leche (hereafter called Señor CCL). Then fresh orange juice at Ciruena and my snacks. Then onto Santo Domingo de Calzada to eat my sandwich and foot care. Turns out my new insoles I bought in Najera are super comfortable for my forefoot but they are thicker and so created a hot spot and later this morning a 25 cent piece sized blister on the side of my left heal.
The crazy adventure started after that. I had not filled up on water at lunch and thought I would see a water fountain coming out of town. Wrong. So I had about 100ml of water left so I rationed like I was in the desert. Sips only. I’m about 1.5 kms in what I think is the green route to Granon when I see a big tractor come towards me and he tells me I’m going the wrong way. I show him the map of the green route and he swirls his hand to show all the land around him and says it’s his. He says I have to go back as I’m not going to Granon. By this time I’ve been walking close to 7 hrs and I’m parched and pooched. Since he was going the direction I had come from I asked him if I could get a ride. His face took pity on me and he told me to hop on which I did with great difficulty as I could not lift my leg high enough for that first step lol. And that’s when I had my very own Dustin Hoffman “Tootsie” moment. Hat brim flapping in the wind and me hanging on for dear life.
He dropped me off and the green route appeared about a km later. This young farmer that I did not even get his name was explaining to me how all those fields not planted was due to the fact that there is just not enough water for all his fields.
I told him I would say a prayer at mass tonight for him. And then parched as I was, two pilgrims sitting in the shade having big slices of some melon gave me a slice which was so kind.
The atmosphere here, the shared meal and song. Our common goal. The mass. The candle being passed around and us saying what is in our hearts. Very very touching.
It was a perfect day in all its imperfections. The sunrise was spectacular and the warmth in the dining room could have heated up the whole church.
I leave you with the perfect song for today. One I’ve been holding on to for the right moment. It certainly is that moment now.
Please explain Señor CCL...curious mind askingI am imagining
Seems to be an abbreviation for cafe con leche...Please explain Señor CCL...curious mind asking
Sorry for the late response. I chose BNESIM. They ended up helping me with the install and I asked that since I had paid for it on April 19 th and we were now may 2nd, could the 30 day plan start as of may 2nd and they agreed. So all is well. Works perfectly. Data only.Who is your provider? Let us know if you find out what the issue was. I'm heading over next month, also from Ontario, and was planning to use a Spanish e-sim. I don't want the same thing to happen to me!
Maybe be rub a pit of cream on Arthur, and as my mum would have said, tell him to weisht. You gotta love potatoes.End of day 14 - Total kms 23.6
Hope you all slept well. I may have Arthur talking real loud again tonightso I’ll just have to compartmentalize that and put him in a box .
Don't look back unless you want to go there...
For me sometimes I need to go there in order to move forwardSuccinctly put.
TY!
PS I almost put sunblock down there instead of zinc. That was so so close Phew!!!Day 9 - Estella to Larcos?? Or before or beyondapprox 21.5 kms +
Not a good night. Sleep elusive. Still not used to albergue dorm life. I’ll get there. My goal today is to stay focused on being calm inside and let the waves go by me. To be kind and patient with myself. I’m usually pretty good at that when I put my mind to it but when I am sleep deprived the dialogue can change pretty quick.
Not as hot today. 22C max.let’s see what today brings .
So dance with me. Nothing like a little dance to perk you right up. Time to have a good time.
PS I almost put sunblock down there instead of zinc. That was so so close Phew!!!
As you get to Atapuerca (if you stay there) I advice you to visit the museum/exibithion of the ancient people eho lived there. It is the oldest finds of humans in Europe, stratiching back 40-50.000 years. Very interesting, and only a 10 mins walk from Atapuerca centre (which is small).
And the exhibition of the Holy Grail in the San Isidoro church in Leon.And the Evolution Museum in Burgos.
Oh, man. Very.How cool is that?
End of day 15 - 24.7 kms. Total 27 kms
Had a hard day mentally and physically. That one portion leading to where the road widens and it seems to go on forever. The 1,250m climb was easier to bear than that long stretch of the same wide, hard packed road. When I saw San Juan de Ortega, it was the first time I yelled out “woohoo” with my sticks up.
I continue to be amazed at the size and opulence of some of the churches in these small small villages like this one.
A bit of drama today. I had not written down the name of the hostal I booked here and could not figure out which albergue based on the whatsapp info…I checked ALL the numbers to match that one and none matched. Why??? Because the only albergue I did not click on was the one that allowed pets. Normally I would never book that, I must have missed that because I’m very allergic to cats and dogs. When I wrote the albergue to ask which one it is, took them 3 hrs to respond back despite the app telling me they had read my question right away in Spanish “Can you confirm the name of your albergue. I’ve arrived and cannot walk another step.”
Three hours later he tells me the name after me telling him “if you don’t respond back I’ll have to stay at another albergue” (he read that right away as well and did not respond). Then he says “but I told other pilgrims I had no bed because I kept your bed.” So…Because I feel in some ways that I’m representing our community of pilgrims and because I told him I was Canadian (so in a way an ambassador of my country) I walked over there and gave him $10 euros (price was $14). It is a 16 bed albergue and in the end I’m glad I’m not staying there. It was a little creepy. End of drama.
On a “the Camino provides” aspect, serendipity happened this afternoon. Walked over to the church to see if it was open (it was not) and a couple were sitting in front on the step, so we started chatting. Originally from South Africa and now living in Australia, we got to talking about our plans for tomorrow and they are also going to Santo Domingo de Silos. They had reserved a taxi to get there as the bus does not go there on Saturday or Sunday. So we are going to share the fare. How cool is that?
I’m someone who does not like to rock the boat unless I can answer affirmatively “will this matter to me in a few years?” If so I’ll do whatever it takes but today with the albergue owner I did not want to rock it. So…let’s finish the day with a great song with a great beat.
Is the route documented somewhere and/or marked?Oh, man. Very.
(By the way...the 2½ day walk from there back to Burgos is very nice.)
Yes. Two options. The ok one is straight ip the Lana. TheIs the route documented somewhere and/or marked?
"It was a perfect day in all its imperfections"Day 16 - Atapuerca to Santo Domingo de silos total kms (12.1 + 3.6)
What a morning! Out of Atapuerca the walk was a bit challenging with really interesting rock formations. Got to Castañares at 11:00 and was waiting for the couple I was doing a ride share with to Santo Domingo de Silos. I see a restaurant right next door to our meeting place and decide to get a coffee and as I’m walking to the entrance I miss my step and do an amazing litteral face plant. Thought I had broken my cheek bone. Same side as when I walked into that TV. Did I fail to mention I tend to be accident prone I fell real hard on my left knee, outstretched left hand and it ended up that the left side of my face took the brunt of the force.
LuckilyI did not break skin. The first thing I was afraid of was for my glasses as they literally flew off my face! One peregrino and a patron rushed over to me and wanted to get me up and I said “give me a moment”. I am so so lucky. It was a quite serious fall. Sheesh!!!
More to be grateful for todayclose one. Tonight the only thing sore is the base of my little finger.
Taxi was a very new van, quite comfortable and it took about an hour. $142 euros split between us. Checked into hotel and took the most amazing shower with the most awesome shower head. Grateful!
The vespers at 7 pm was quite moving. 13 Benedictine monks in black robes. The priest and two monks with white robes over their black ones accompanied him. But what touched me the most was the very old monks. One had a walker and terribly hunched over. The other also with serious mobility issues, but both made their way to their seats before the rest came in. The two older ones, their purpose and determination made me shed a tear. I was quite moved by the whole ceremony.
Life has a way of teaching us all we need to know if our hearts are open and our minds uncluttered. Today I learned that even though it seems that life can be troubled and complicated, we only need to take a moment to stop all the busyness, and open our eyes and hearts. I don’t have all the answers, but I am willing to ask the tough questions.
So many pictures today. I’ll post more tomorrow morning.
This song speaks to me tonight. I’m humbled by what I saw, heard and felt today.
I learned yesterday that pineapple and papaya could help you right now.Day 16 - Atapuerca to Santo Domingo de silos total kms (12.1 + 3.6)
What a morning! Out of Atapuerca the walk was a bit challenging with really interesting rock formations. Got to Castañares at 11:00 and was waiting for the couple I was doing a ride share with to Santo Domingo de Silos. I see a restaurant right next door to our meeting place and decide to get a coffee and as I’m walking to the entrance I miss my step and do an amazing litteral face plant. Thought I had broken my cheek bone. Same side as when I walked into that TV. Did I fail to mention I tend to be accident prone I fell real hard on my left knee, outstretched left hand and it ended up that the left side of my face took the brunt of the force.
LuckilyI did not break skin. The first thing I was afraid of was for my glasses as they literally flew off my face! One peregrino and a patron rushed over to me and wanted to get me up and I said “give me a moment”. I am so so lucky. It was a quite serious fall. Sheesh!!!
More to be grateful for todayclose one. Tonight the only thing sore is the base of my little finger.
Taxi was a very new van, quite comfortable and it took about an hour. $142 euros split between us. Checked into hotel and took the most amazing shower with the most awesome shower head. Grateful!
The vespers at 7 pm was quite moving. 13 Benedictine monks in black robes. The priest and two monks with white robes over their black ones accompanied him. But what touched me the most was the very old monks. One had a walker and terribly hunched over. The other also with serious mobility issues, but both made their way to their seats before the rest came in. The two older ones, their purpose and determination made me shed a tear. I was quite moved by the whole ceremony.
Life has a way of teaching us all we need to know if our hearts are open and our minds uncluttered. Today I learned that even though it seems that life can be troubled and complicated, we only need to take a moment to stop all the busyness, and open our eyes and hearts. I don’t have all the answers, but I am willing to ask the tough questions.
So many pictures today. I’ll post more tomorrow morning.
This song speaks to me tonight. I’m humbled by what I saw, heard and felt today.
We often met people again on the Way and it was always a happy surprise. You are walking your own Camino and will have experiences to savor despite the separation from new and old friends.Day 17 - Santa Domingo de Silos to Burgos
Good morning. Went back to the church this morning and once again listened to the same 16 Benedictine monks demonstrate their strong faith. They sing in the church six times a day…every single day of the week for various homilies. This level of pure devotion I have never witnessed before.
Mixed feelings today. Another chapter ends and another begins. Said goodbye to the lovely and oh so kind Australian couple. Last night they invited me to join them for supper but I declined and rested in my room. At the restaurant they met a lovely German man, who I saw yesterday at the cloister. He had some very high tech camera gear. He was driving back to Burgos today and was kind enough to bring us with him.
As I sit here in Burgos near the Arco de Santa Maria on a bench facing the Rio Arlazon, I’m once again faced with some sadness. Since I am staying two days in Burgos, most of the people I’ve been regularly seeing since Pamplona will now be ahead of me and I will be meeting a new group of people. That in itself is not a bad thing but I am surprised at how quickly bonds are made on this Camino. The warmth and genuine kindness of so many people you meet along the way makes you build links that are strong despite the short time forging them.
I’m very happy I went to Santo Domingo de Silos. I only hope I’m not too lonely here in Burgos. The Camino Frances is very busy and I don’t see myself doing this Camino again because of that. I’m not up to a late fall or earlier spring departure. Therefore I will savour every minute of it and see all that I can and hope to see.
This morning this song is the one for me. The sun is shining, the birds are singing. The city is waking up and preparing for a lovely Sunday. And so will I.
Enjoy your days in Burgos - new friends ahead. You never know girl, I'm doing my first Camino in fall this year, I'll let you know what its like.Day 17 - Santa Domingo de Silos to Burgos
The Camino Frances is very busy and I don’t see myself doing this Camino again because of that. I’m not up to a late fall or earlier spring departure. Therefore I will savour every minute of it and see all that I can and hope to see.
This morning this song is the one for me. The sun is shining, the birds are singing. The city is waking up and preparing for a lovely Sunday. And so will I.
You know we bought a whole case of Chicken Ramen cups at the grocery case-lot sale this winter and when we got them home the label they said they were "chicken-flavored vegan" Ramen cups. Go figure...End of day 2 in Burgos - total walked (yesterday + today) 23 kms
After a very disappointing moment this morning. my afternoon walk along the river made me realize I am so eager to put my pack back on and walk again. Missed it. Last two days gave me an early insight on how I will feel when all is done.
Did not feel like visiting other churches or points of interest. Did not find sandals or light walking shoes I liked and when I did they did not have my size. My vegan ramen I ordered for take away to eat in my room turned out to be a chicken ramenbut…I ended the day with a high. I’m a big girl now!!! Went for my first manicure. Biting my nails is an awful and ugly habit. I’m doing so good with that.
So… got my mojo back and ready to rumble!!!
Iconic – Omg the Meseta awaits - enjoy your steps.Day 18 - Burgos to Hornillos del Camino - 21kms
Eager to start and this song I just can’t get out of my head. Great movie and a song that stays with you. You’re welcome.
I’m realizing after Burgos that that approach will work best for me as well. Experience is building on this CaminoGood morning @Dani7, I'm really enjoying your updates. Regarding rest days, FWIW, for myself I've found that i don't really enjoy taking a full day, i get a bit itchy for walking! So now when i need a rest I do a short day maybe 10km (and perhaps treat myself to a room instead of a bunk depending on the destination). That way i get a rest and a walk. Buen camino
Pssst, Dani....Here are the pictures of the abodes of these monks (or nuns?). They look like little hobbit houses but they actually lives underground for the most part. One door was busted at the top and another has a rather large peephole. (For air most likely).
Yes, and they are called "bodegas." In some other parts of Spain (e.g. near Guadix on the Mozarabe), homes are also built into the hillsides.They're for storing vino, not anyone's abode
After Castrojeriz, there's a pearl of an albergue in Boadilla del Camino, called Albergue en el Camino, with a nice garden, a small pool, some artwork, and a very good communal dinner.
Edit: Did you visit the shop of the old man?
He is 92, and he will be running across the plaza as always, long after I'm gone (69)Yes I did visit him. I don’t know how old he is but when I was climbing the step ladder to get a pair of shoes for me (I told him I wanted something similar to what I had and painted to them but he brought down two pairs of hiking boots). To our then back I told him I would pass him the boxes. I was so afraid Alex that he would fall. I felt so bad for this effort that i bought a pair of liner socks that I did not need but wanted to buy something. I showed hi your picture. He looked at it for awhile as if he was searching his memory banks and then his face lit up. I got a picture if he and I and he took my hand in both of his and wished me a Buen Camino. I amazed at his strength of presence. Thank you so much for guiding me there
Monika, the Camino Frances right now is very very busy. I’m in Torres del Rio tonight and there is nothing before or after Logrono, except for Navarrete and for me that would mean 33kms and I don’t think I can do that. So Im not sure what I am going to do. If this continues I would recommend you book ahead at least for the first 10 days.
Hi Dani! You were soooo right!!! Well, I unfortunately didn’t read your message to me until I was well under way - experiencing these issues first hand! I chose not to plan ahead very far because I never know what shape I will be in by the end of the day…Monika, the Camino Frances right now is very very busy. I’m in Torres del Rio tonight and there is nothing before or after Logrono, except for Navarrete and for me that would mean 33kms and I don’t think I can do that. So Im not sure what I am going to do. If this continues I would recommend you book ahead at least for the first 10 days.
Hi Dani! You were soooo right!!! Well, I unfortunately didn’t read your message to me until I was well under way - experiencing these issues first hand! I chose not to plan ahead very far because I never know what shape I will be in by the end of the day…
Today, after the climb and descent out of Castrojeriz, it really felt like the Meseta. Flat walking into Boadilla.
By now my pack feels molded to my back. My feet part of the earth and my mind, body and spirit fully embodying this journey.
Unfortunately, we tend to elect the most incompetent people as our governments...Our politicians should do a Camino to see how the citizens of the world come together as one and help each other when needed. How we respect our cultures and differences and also have so much in common.
I most certainly took the green variantYes, hope you enjoy the walk and took the green variant instead of walking on the senda by the highway all the way from Fromista to Carrion.
I agree. Eva Cassidy does it beautifully! My favorite of hers however is still Over the Rainbow!End of day 21 - 24 kms approx, 26.5 total
Took the green variant today after Población des Campos and it was so worth the extra km or so. The bird songs that whole route were incredible. So many different kinds of birds. Good shade passed Villovieco and walking beside the canal was so very peaceful.
There is a saying right!! Be careful what you pray for. Been praying for rain lately, for the farmers and oh boy the last 90 min of today’s walk into Carrion de Los Condes was hard rain coupled with very strong winds from my right…and…hail!! You read right…hail!! The wind was so strong that the hail felt like pins and needles on my hands and it was about 9C so I don’t even know what the wind chill brought the temp to. Unreal
Saw the singing nuns and we were many people, local and Peregrinos. I did a video call with my sister and she chimed in as well.
And to finish a perfect day despite the cold and rain and hail, I made myself a delicious salad with a green apple and garlic croutons. Gave some to a young girl with a cold.
I’m ready for tomorrow’s long 17 kms stretch. No cafe con leche before I go thoughbecause want to go easy on my bladder, if you know what I mean. Tomorrow morning it will be 2C. Partly sunny high of 17. Spring so far has been more on the cool side for a big part of the day.
Still have those birdsongs in my head. So only fitting to finish the day with a song I hold most dear to my heart. Written and sung by the late and ever so talented Christine McVie. My favorite interpretation however is by the late and oh so angelic, Eva Cassidy.
Quel beau choix de chanson !Touchant ,douxEnd of day 21 - 24 kms approx, 26.5 total
Took the green variant today after Población des Campos and it was so worth the extra km or so. The bird songs that whole route were incredible. So many different kinds of birds. Good shade passed Villovieco and walking beside the canal was so very peaceful.
There is a saying right!! Be careful what you pray for. Been praying for rain lately, for the farmers and oh boy the last 90 min of today’s walk into Carrion de Los Condes was hard rain coupled with very strong winds from my right…and…hail!! You read right…hail!! The wind was so strong that the hail felt like pins and needles on my hands and it was about 9C so I don’t even know what the wind chill brought the temp to. Unreal
Saw the singing nuns and we were many people, local and Peregrinos. I did a video call with my sister and she chimed in as well.
And to finish a perfect day despite the cold and rain and hail, I made myself a delicious salad with a green apple and garlic croutons. Gave some to a young girl with a cold.
I’m ready for tomorrow’s long 17 kms stretch. No cafe con leche before I go thoughbecause want to go easy on my bladder, if you know what I mean. Tomorrow morning it will be 2C. Partly sunny high of 17. Spring so far has been more on the cool side for a big part of the day.
Still have those birdsongs in my head. So only fitting to finish the day with a song I hold most dear to my heart. Written and sung by the late and ever so talented Christine McVie. My favorite interpretation however is by the late and oh so angelic, Eva Cassidy.
English pleaseQuel beau choix de chanson !Touchant ,douxMerci pour tes belles photos J’espère que ta main est mieux .
On admire ton courage et ta détermination est impressionnante
Quel beau choix de chanson !Touchant ,douxMerci pour tes belles photos J’espère que ta main est mieux .
On admire ton courage et ta détermination est impressionnante
Quel beau choix de chanson !Touchant ,douxMerci pour tes belles photos J’espère que ta main est mieux .
On admire ton courage et ta détermination est impressionnante
Perfect song to end your day!End of day 22 - 24.1 kms, 25.6 total
Thank goodness it was not hot today. With very little shade and walking in a straight line for most of the day, various pilgrims along the way and in our albergue agreed: it was not an easy day mentally and therefore physically.
I was however in the good company of another French pilgrim I had met a few days before and we walked the entire day together. It really helped get through this stage. We stopped at “café Móvil”. What a great place. Coffee served in glassware, toast and tomate. Hit the stop. Quick stop to check a hot spot on feet at Calzadilla de la Cueza and ended for the day at Ledigos at albergue La Morena. If you want a generous glass of sangria and an amazingly good paella verduras…stop here
I went to bed a happy camper and fell asleep before the timer on the light in my cubicle went off after it’s 8 minutes. So it’s only fitting I end the day with this
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