- Time of past OR future Camino
- Yearly and Various 2014-2019
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Brierley is writing a guidebook...out next year.
(So he says in the podcast interview that Dave has just posted.)
And the Junta is going to "push" it next year. So it will invariably get busier.
I am (very selfishly) glad I walked it before that happens.
The quiet will not last forever - so if you are thinking about it and wavering, maybe the time is now.
Yes, I bet you're right, Laurie, about the guidebooks - and certainly about the albergues.It seems to me that the type of pilgrim attracted to the Invierno is not the type that would hesitate to walk without a guidebook (and given all the resources on the forum and elsewhere, no guidebook is necessary anyway). IMHO, the lack of albergues is a much bigger drawback than the lack of a printed guidebook, and that just doesn’t seem to be changing much.
Not necessarily. The Verín, or southern, variant of the Sanabrés, mostly coinciding with the Camino Zamorano Portugués once it crosses back into Spain, has several excellent albergues which are woefully (or, if you have anchorite tendencies like me, delightfully) underused. I was about the 125th person in Villaderei this year only a month ago, and probably much the same the next day in Xinzo de Limia, both outstanding (xunta) albergues.If the xunta establishes a framework of albergues, the rest will follow in 2-3 years.
Build it...And they will come.
Not necessarily. The Verín, or southern, variant of the Sanabrés, mostly coinciding with the Camino Zamorano Portugués once it crosses back into Spain, has several excellent albergues which are woefully (or, if you have anchorite tendencies like me, delightfully) underused. I was about the 125th person in Villaderei this year only a month ago, and probably much the same the next day in Xinzo de Limia, both outstanding (xunta) albergues.
The Camino de Madrid is another example — excellent albergue infrastructure and still only a handful of peregrinos.Not necessarily. The Verín, or southern, variant of the Sanabrés, mostly coinciding with the Camino Zamorano Portugués once it crosses back into Spain, has several excellent albergues which are woefully (or, if you have anchorite tendencies like me, delightfully) underused. I was about the 125th person in Villaderei this year only a month ago, and probably much the same the next day in Xinzo de Limia, both outstanding (xunta) albergues.
Not necessarily. The Verín, or southern, variant of the Sanabrés, mostly coinciding with the Camino Zamorano Portugués once it crosses back into Spain, has several excellent albergues which are woefully (or, if you have anchorite tendencies like me, delightfully) underused. I was about the 125th person in Villaderei this year only a month ago, and probably much the same the next day in Xinzo de Limia, both outstanding (xunta) albergues.
Not necessarily. The Verín, or southern, variant of the Sanabrés, mostly coinciding with the Camino Zamorano Portugués once it crosses back into Spain, has several excellent albergues which are woefully (or, if you have anchorite tendencies like me, delightfully) underused. I was about the 125th person in Villaderei this year only a month ago, and probably much the same the next day in Xinzo de Limia, both outstanding (xunta) albergues.
Yes.Not necessarily. The Verín, or southern, variant of the Sanabrés, mostly coinciding with the Camino Zamorano Portugués once it crosses back into Spain, has several excellent albergues
Could you guys stop these threads until after I’ve walked my hopefully-quiet Levante/Invierno starting in April?
Greatly appreciated;-)
Hey, VN, when you say Monforte is easy to get to what do you mean? Easy to get to from--? Madrid? Thanks.Yes.
And...
The Invierno ends in Santiago, and Monforte de Lemos (130km away) is absurdly easy to get to.
So this can potentially take the strain off the overcrowded Sarria to Santiago ant trail.
Yes, it's longer and significantly harder than that, but that may be a draw for those who are relatively fit, but have tight time constraints. It's also a whole heck of a lot more interesting.
But wow, Alan, thank you for that. I was vaguely aware of it, but now it goes firmly on my list!
But he has. He was a stealth pilgrim and only posted twice.And @alansykes, how is it possible that you have not (at least if my tracking is correct) walked the Invierno!!!!
but I continue to be confounded by the fact that the Primitivo took off so robustly and is now on the path to overcrowding,
If you don't behave yourselves, I'll rank the Caminos in a Magic Quadrant.
That’s exactly what I was going to write!The Magic Quadrant sounds great. Bring it on !
I have only met one pilgrim thus far. An older American gentleman (Pacific Crest Trail hiker!) doing his FIRST Camino!!!!
I’m so thankful to have walked before it was well known. In 2015 I walked for 11 days without seeing another Pilgrim. The most empowering days of my life.Brierley is writing a guidebook...out next year.
(So he says in the podcast interview that Dave has just posted.)
And the Junta is going to "push" it next year. So it will invariably get busier.
I am (very selfishly) glad I walked it before that happens.
The quiet will not last forever - so if you are thinking about it and wavering, maybe the time is now.
Me.Who wants to go now?
I’m so thankful to have walked before it was well known. In 2015 I walked for 11 days without seeing another Pilgrim. The most empowering days of my life.
Me too. I’m planning for late April 2020.
I would think it will be a while before it gets that busy. The infrastructure is not there. I walked it in early September this year, only saw 3 other pilgrims. I was glad I like my own company. Stunning scenery.Brierley is writing a guidebook...out next year.
(So he says in the podcast interview that Dave has just posted.)
And the Junta is going to "push" it next year. So it will invariably get busier.
I am (very selfishly) glad I walked it before that happens.
The quiet will not last forever - so if you are thinking about it and wavering, maybe the time is now.
I'll be on the Invierno again in early June; following that I'm definitely considering the Camino Torres. These less-crowded caminos are not for everyone, but - as Laurie rightly points out - let's be selfish and enjoy them in case the hordes arrive!It will be interesting to see if a guidebook will jumpstart this route. It seems to me that the type of pilgrim attracted to the Invierno is not the type that would hesitate to walk without a guidebook (and given all the resources on the forum and elsewhere, no guidebook is necessary anyway). IMHO, the lack of albergues is a much bigger drawback than the lack of a printed guidebook, and that just doesn’t seem to be changing much.
I share your selfish gladness, though, and hope to walk at least once more before there are crowds.
Hope not! It's too beautiful to spoil!If the xunta establishes a framework of albergues, the rest will follow in 2-3 years.
Build it...And they will come.
The Verín alternative is really good, especially when you come across wonderful towns like Allariz.I have been thinking about the Verín branch for a long time. Once upon a time I think they were mentioned as equal options of the Sanabrés, but now I have the impression that everyone goes through Laza, and Verín is falling into oblivion? Cause I have walked the Sanabes twice, and every time there was zero buzz about taking the Verín alternative. Are they equally attractive variants of the Sanabrés?
I share your thoughts 100%!Could you guys stop these threads until after I’ve walked my hopefully-quiet Levante/Invierno starting in April?
Greatly appreciated;-)
Was that photo taken before or after we met you and took you on the guided Wine Centre Tour?Either Madrid or especially Santiago.
The train to and from Santiago and Ponferrada/Astorga/Leon/Burgos/Irun goes through there - and actually follows part of the Invierno pretty closely, from Puente Domingo Florez to Quiroga, then reconnecting briefly with it in Monforte and on the last stage into Santiago.
And there may be more local trains; certainly there are lots of buses. It's a biggish place, and a very interesting one.
View media item 9674
Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!This thread reminded me of how backpacking and travel magazines often have cover stories like, "The 10 most beautiful, secret, undiscovered beaches/villages/islands/hikes you need to do."
Me too! Overcrowding!
It's not a case of 'keeping this to ourselves' at all. There is a wonderful free guide to the Invierno on this forum, painstakingly edited by Laurie (peregrina2000) and with a lot of unselfish contributions from quite a few of us who have walked the route.Why should you all keep this to yourselves. Caminos are there for all to enjoy in which ever way they choose. I for one would be happy with a guide book. I like to know a bit about where I am and have some recommendations about where to eat and stay. I always book all my accommodation in advance, don't carry my back pack and take a taxi if I'm exhausted.
I'll look forward to Brierly's book and I expect I'll be there to ruin the peace and quiet for you !
@Anniefish
If you want logistic support (taxis, luggage transport), the company of others, and frequent places to stay, this might not (yet) be the walk for you.
piles of mochillas?Those piles of mochilas
The same here. I have never seen any sort of luggage transport on the Invierno, until you get around Lalín.piles of mochillas?
Wow, BP, were you in sych with a tour group - one of the walk a bit, take the bus a bit kind? I saw nothing of the sort. Just three Spanish guys who were flying along and somehow got their stuff transported.
Thank you for sharing this .. I am now rethinking my 2020 Camino .Brierley is writing a guidebook...out next year.
(So he says in the podcast interview that Dave has just posted.)
And the Junta is going to "push" it next year. So it will invariably get busier.
I am (very selfishly) glad I walked it before that happens.
The quiet will not last forever - so if you are thinking about it and wavering, maybe the time is now.
The same here. I have never seen any sort of luggage transport on the Invierno, until you get around Lalín.
I suppose Monforte de Lemos, being quite a large town, would have this available, but I'm surprised that you also mention Rodeiro. Would this have been up in Carpinteiras, because I've never seen anything down in the centre around Mesón O'Guerra?
Correos does transport on the Invierno but not in Invierno. Their transport was not available this November. At 65, I really had to lighten my pack, 2 light shirts and one to travel/hangout in. 1 hiking pant, 1 to travel. Rain gear including waterproof shoes are a must, light raincoat with pit zips and a light Arcteryx heavily discounted wicking jacket underneath worked very well for me. It was colder in November than it is now. It rained every day. Yeayyy!!! Met a total of 4 other Peregrinos until it merged and on the last day met 3 more.I met a guy in the albergue in Carpinteiras Rodeiro who had used Correos to have his pack transported. I think he had used it all the way from Ponferrada though I am not completely sure about that. And I can’t find any info on Correos’ page about transport on the Invierno so it is kind of confusing. But I am sure he had used Correos.
Maybe.Just to bring us back to the original assertion of this thread, I was amused to see what I said in 2011, that’s 9 years ago!
So, I am going to stick my neck out and predict that within a few years this will be a more heavily traveled Camino. With the signage problem solved, it's just such a tempting alternative for people getting tired of the crowds on the Camino Frances, that I have to think it will grow in popularity.
Maybe next year is the game-changer!
I suppose Monforte de Lemos, being quite a large town, would have this available, but I'm surprised that you also mention Rodeiro. Would this have been up in Carpinteiras, because I've never seen anything down in the centre around Mesón O'Guerra?
Oh yes, Carpinteiro it was. I haven't stayed in O Guerra for ages so I wouldn't know...
And I've always wondered about the Mogay in Chantada, but I've never been able to get a room there. I'm sure their reception looks like an obstacle course in the morning…!
Never able to get a room at the Mogay? My impression has always been that I was one of very few guests. Though last year I was in a decidedly uncomfortable room— window led only to a covered internal patio, and no AC. I think there must be two different sections, because the roo I was in before had a real window and AC (though the AC was on the blink when I was there). Their prices seem to have gone steadily up, though, and the Gamallo seems to have gotten cleaner, so I might go back to that option next time.
Well, according to my google maps, the polideportivo is right around the corner from the Gamallo, so you could check them both out! Has any forum member stayed in the polideportivo in Chantada? I don’t remember reading anything about it.I would like to try polideportivo in Chantada. It can't be much more weird as Pension Yoel
But then I must say I really enjoy unusual places... Both to sleep and to eat/drink
I wanted to stay in some of the polideportivos on this Camino. I quite like them and I sleep comfy on the inflatable mattress I carry.
I decided against it because I figured the heat would be turned off during the night. With all this cold December rain - I need heat to warm up & dry out at the end of each stage!
Also wanted to add that I only met the one pilgrim (American guy). We walked different stages and I saw him twice. I absolutely love having the albergues ALLLLLLL to myself.
The Hotel Mogay? I've never had any problems there, but I've always called in advance and reserved.Oh yes, Carpinteiro it was. I haven't stayed in O Guerra for ages so I wouldn't know...
And I've always wondered about the Mogay in Chantada, but I've never been able to get a room there. I'm sure their reception looks like an obstacle course in the morning…!
Me too! I have only ever had one stage on my many Caminos de Invierno when I felt a bit cold, walking up once to Monte do Faro, but not a single drop of rain. My poncho is still in virgin condition, although I might need it tonight here in Salamanca when I go to watch the Copa del Rey football match between my beloved Unionistas de Salamanca and Atlético Baleares. Strong winds, rain and snow are forecast, with temperatures well below freezing!Albergues all to yourself sounds lovely!
I just watched your rainy stage to Monforte de Lemos! I would love to walk in rain!!!
/BP
I used correos in May 2019. But they only worked on weekdays, not Saturdays, Sundays or fiestas. There is no info but I emailed them.I met a guy in the albergue in Carpinteiras Rodeiro who had used Correos to have his pack transported. I think he had used it all the way from Ponferrada though I am not completely sure about that. And I can’t find any info on Correos’ page about transport on the Invierno so it is kind of confusing. But I am sure he had used Correos.
Personally, I would hope that I never have to make use of any sort of backpack transport service. Even at my age I can still manage to carry my own backpack, although I can understand that some people may struggle on some of the mountainous stages of different caminos.I used correos in May 2019. But they only worked on weekdays, not Saturdays, Sundays or fiestas. herebis no info but I emailed them.
You are may be even older than me (71). Charrito, and still carrying all your stuff.Personally, I would hope that I never have to make use of any sort of backpack transport service. Even at my age I can still manage to carry my own backpack, although I can understand that some people may struggle on some of the mountainous stages of different caminos.
I remember being on the Primitivo a couple of years ago, and bumping into a very nice Australian lady, probably in her early thirties. I first met her on the long climb out of Grado and all she had with her was a miniscule backpack with just about enough room for a bottle of water and a small sandwich. She was using Correos. I saw her luggage arrive in Salas and the following day in Tineo: it consisted of two enormous suitcases, with probably enough clothing for a three-week holiday! This to me defeats the purpose of walking the camino.
I'll probably come back to this thread in a couple of years' time, when my back is playing up and my knees have gone, and say what a wonderful service Correos provides. Until then, I'm prepared to suffer! No pain, no gain, as they say!
Three years behind you!You are may be even older than me (71). Charrito, and still carrying all your stuff.
I guess that even when using correos, a couple of times after a lot of caminos, my backpack is still heavier than yours. I would never dream of sending my Osprey Exit 48 with either of the backpacktransport companies. I might make it a little less heavy by sending a small bag ahead. Then I can carry more food and water in case I meet a hungry and thirsty peregrina on my way.
Understood. Some people take the p**s, though, by using these services when they don't need to.Sometimes when you are injured, Correos Paq Mochila can save your Camino. For the Primitivo May 2019 I had bilateral Achilles tendinosis especially severe on the right, and sending a small nylon duffel bag while carrying my Osprey 24L with water bladder saved the day. No shame in using this reliable service. Invierno Nov 2019, carried Osprey 34 L. Carrying Mochila or not did not alter the essence of the Camino for me.
Brierley is writing a guidebook...out next year.
(So he says in the podcast interview that Dave has just posted.)
And the Junta is going to "push" it next year. So it will invariably get busier.
I am (very selfishly) glad I walked it before that happens.
The quiet will not last forever - so if you are thinking about it and wavering, maybe the time is now.
I can only think that they had some sort of event on (wedding, first communion or christening), as there's usually plenty of room. They also have a lot more rooms in the annex over the road.As a few of you might remember: my jaw dropped to the ground this summer when I made my routinely call to Hostal Torres in Puente de Domingo Flórez, and got the answer they were fully booked for the two following days…! I had started to take them for granted. I know this is circumstantial evidence, but for me it was the first sign of the Invierno getting crowded, from my perspective… :O(
I can only think that they had some sort of event on (wedding, first communion or christening), as there's usually plenty of room. They also have a lot more rooms in the annex over the road.
For my first Invierno I must have been crazy, but I did the stage from Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Flórez on the same day. It was a Sunday, baking hot, and there was absolutely nowhere open (not even Marisol in Borrenes) until I staggered into (L)as Médulas and plonked myself down in O Camiño Real's garden for a nice cold Estrella Galicia (or several). I hadn't reserved anywhere, and thought about the hotel over the road (I've since stayed there and it's not that great) or Casa Socorro (been there too), but after a fantastic huge bowl of Caldo Berciano and the excellent bread, I carried on up the short rise and then down that never-ending descent to Puente.I know, I sure hope so. I asked them for the annex just to be sure, but they were unassailable. I so enjoy staying there for the 1st stage, making the following stage somewhat shorter.
Puente de Domingo Flórez is one place that is just crying out for an albergue. There are the crazies like @Charrito who will walk the approximately 1000m total ascent and 35 kms in one day.Then there are those who would like to stop in either Villavieja or Borrenes, walk on through Médulas, and sleep in Puente. I personally wouldn’t recommend this unless you have already spent time in Médulas, because the museums and visits are phenomenal. Of course, there are those who don’t like to do any touring when they walk, and then Puente is a great option. Staying in Puente also means that the walk to A Rúa is 32 km.
While I’m babbling on about lodging — if you saw Sara’s most recent installment, you know that she stayed in a new place a few km outside Penasillás. Hotel Vilaseco. https://www.hotelvilaseco.es/. It has a shared room for peregrinos. It is 2 km from Penasillás, and not on the camino, but it’s another option to put in the mix. It might be particularly helpful if you are trying to make short Invierno stages (it’s about 15 from Chantada). Also if you stay in Torre Vilariño (HIGHLY recommended, plus you can take the loop down to the iconic Sil River vistas), it would be about 27 km to Hotel Vilaseco. The more options, the better!
Thanks for the 'crazy' tag, Laurie!Puente de Domingo Flórez is one place that is just crying out for an albergue. There are the crazies like @Charrito who will walk the approximately 1000m total ascent and 35 kms in one day.Then there are those who would like to stop in either Villavieja or Borrenes, walk on through Médulas, and sleep in Puente. I personally wouldn’t recommend this unless you have already spent time in Médulas, because the museums and visits are phenomenal. Of course, there are those who don’t like to do any touring when they walk, and then Puente is a great option. Staying in Puente also means that the walk to A Rúa is 32 km.
While I’m babbling on about lodging — if you saw Sara’s most recent installment, you know that she stayed in a new place a few km outside Penasillás. Hotel Vilaseco. https://www.hotelvilaseco.es/. It has a shared room for peregrinos. It is 2 km from Penasillás, and not on the camino, but it’s another option to put in the mix. It might be particularly helpful if you are trying to make short Invierno stages (it’s about 15 from Chantada). Also if you stay in Torre Vilariño (HIGHLY recommended, plus you can take the loop down to the iconic Sil River vistas), it would be about 27 km to Hotel Vilaseco. The more options, the better!
When do you arrive in Santiago?Hahaha! I just saw this thread.
And now I’m video blogging this way.
I have only met one pilgrim thus far. An older American gentleman (Pacific Crest Trail hiker!) doing his FIRST Camino!!!!
When do you arrive in Santiago?
A little bird whispered to me she already arrived there, and is on her way back to Canada. Apparently the vlogs lag a few days behind!
/BP
That's no great problem, Ivar, as the forum guide is more than adequate, in my opinion.I just heard from the publisher that this book is not coming out until the end of 2020.
On Del Norte in September it was quite easy to get lost in solitude. In fact it was only by choice that I walked with other pilgrims. So many coatal variants and then 3 days of complete solitude through Vegadeo and wonderful alberques.The Camino de Madrid is another example — excellent albergue infrastructure and still only a handful of peregrinos.
Surely someone can figure this out, but I continue to be confounded by the fact that the Primitivo took off so robustly and is now on the path to overcrowding, while the Invierno has continued to languish. Similar distances, beautiful scenery for both. Maybe the camino gods just want to make sure that there are a few untraveled caminos left for those who relish the solitude.
They're obviously not listening to us pilgrims, but to someone else. Overpaid consultants or something.Hey, what about some albergues instead of crushed rock and more signs, guys? I can’t imagine any more mojones will fit on the Invierno.
And they weren't interested in my offer to invest in the albergue in A Rúa . . . . .They're obviously not listening to us pilgrims, but to someone else. Overpaid consultants or something.
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