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VdlP/Sanabres Albergue Report - Spring 2017

MileHighPair

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2012, '14: Frances
2015: Chimayo, USA.
2016, '17: VdlP
2018: Madrid, Ourense, Salvador, Primitivo
Here is a list of every albergue I stayed in with a few words about each. I walked every step of this Camino, meeting some great fellow pilgrims and also walking totally alone for much of the way!

March 1 – April 9, 2017

Seville – Bed and Breakfast Naranjo – 11 Calle San Roque. A simple breakfast is included but not until about 7:45 am. It is northwest of the cathedral, you can go straight west and catch the camino on the other side of the river.

Guillena – Alb. Luz del Camino is very nice, on the left just as you enter town. The municipal albergue is clear across town and was closed.

Castilblanco do los Arroyos – Municipal Albergue very nice with kitchen and nice rooftop terrace. I think it opens for the season on March 1.

Almaden de la Plata – Municipal Albergue. There was no toilet paper and a large group of loud teenagers checked in after the pilgrims were in bed. It is also difficult to find, being on the far west side of town, with inadequate arrows leading through the town. Otherwise it is a nice facility, with a large well equipped kitchen and a large living/dining area.

Real de la Jara – Albergue del Peregrino, about 100 meters after entering town on the right side. Very nice with kitchen and rooftop terrace. A bit of a walk to where shops are and a long ways from the castle on the far side of town.

Monesterio – Parochial Albergue is very nice and I was the only person there! It is right on the Camino on the left side of the street. A stocked kitchen with pasta, fruit, cookies. A nice patio if it is warm.

Fuente de Cantos – Albergue Touristico on the west side of town. Cold rooms and cold showers. This was one of the few times I really wished I had stayed somewhere else.

Zafra – Albergue Vincent Van Gogh is very nice. It seemed hard to spot even though it is on the Camino, on the right side of the road, on the NE corner of a major intersection.

Villafranca de los Barros – Albergue Carmen is really great. Kitchen, terrace, living area, not too
far from several small shops. Also a large indoor food market in the center of town.

Torremejia – Palacio de los Lastras. This is a good facility, but the evening dinners are poor quality. I thought so, and heard from others that it was the worst of their whole Camino. You could stay here and eat somewhere else!

Aljucen – Albergue Rio Aljucen is really one of the best. Good kitchen, close to restaurants and shops. Also the replica Roman baths at Termas Aqua Libera were really great in 2016.

Alcuescar – Parish Albergue. Community dinner after mass in the evening. The doors are locked between about 2 to 4 in the afternoon. Can be cold, but blankets are available.

Valdesalor – Municipal Albergue is the first building on the left as you enter town. Go to bar to check in. It has only 7 bunks and can be full during busy April/May. Only one bathroom/shower which could be problematic for 14 people. We had 11 the night I was there, on March 12.

Casar do Caceres – The municipal albergue is not “donativo” anymore, but it was only 5E in March 2017. It is one of the noisier albergues, with church bells ringing all night and noisy fans in the bathroom. Very good food at Bar Majuca.

Canaveral – Hostal Canaveral is one of the more expensive albergues along the route, but is VERY nice and the food is great.

Riolobos – Camping Catalinas on the east side of town along the main road. Very friendly owners, you stay in apartment like rooms with a 2-4 beds per room and a shared kitchen. I highly recommend leaving town going east to rejoin the Camino, then north to Galisteo. This provides a dirt track on the northward section of the morning, and a beautiful approach to Galisteo.

Carcaboso – Albergue Elena is a bit dated, but adequate, with a well equipped kitchen and a good rooftop patio for drying clothes.

Oliva de Plasencia – I really think you need to call and reserve a bed here. When you get to town, go the shop just downhill from the church to check in., then the albergue is several blocks south of there. The folks who run this albergue seem to really care about it, but they can be difficult to contact. It was a very nice place to stay. Going to Oliva adds about 6-7 km to your Camino, but it breaks up an otherwise nearly 40 km day into two stages.

Aldeanueva del Camino – Albergue La Casa de mi Abuela. This is a very nice place, in an old building but newly renovated.

Calzada de Bejar – Albergue Alba y Soraya. Very nice place with fireplace in the common area. A simple cooking area under the patio outside if you want to cook, otherwise a very good dinner is served in the evening. On the left just after entering town.

Fuenterroble – The Parish Albergue – legendary along the VdlP, but I found it somewhat disappointing both in 2016 and 2017. I’m not sure why.

Morille – The Municipal Albergue is actually in two different buildings. For 6 pilgrims or less (2016) there is a very small building next to the bar. For larger numbers (2017), there is a bigger building with about 12 bunk beds up some really steep stairs. The only place to eat is in the bar. The food was OK.

Salamanca – The Municipal Albergue opened at noon, then closed from 1pm to 4pm. Quite inconvenient. It did have a clothes spinner, which is really nice on a wet day!

Casa Saso – This is in the country, 23 km north of Salamanca. It breaks up a very long day. The hosts are very friendly but I would advise calling ahead to be sure you have a bed.

Villanueva del Campeon – I stayed in the first albergue, on the right just before the bar. In the spring a cold common area forces you to your bed or the bar for the whole afternoon/evening. Otherwise OK.

Zamora – The Municipal Albergue. This is good facility with volunteer hospitaleros who provide a simple breakfast.

Montamarta – Stayed in Casa Rural El Tia Bartolo. Private rooms on the main floor and an albergue-like room upstairs with several single beds.

Tabara – Municipal Albergue is unique. Most people really seem to enjoy it. The community meal in the evening was somewhat less than most pilgrims need to eat. If you have a few snacks to go along with it, then you’d be OK. It is about 1 km south of the Camino, so this adds to an already long day.

Rionegro del Puente – The Municipal Albergue is fine, on the north side of the N-525 in the middle of town. Please eat across the highway at Association Gastronomica. Ask the young lady who checks you into the albergue, if you have any questions about this restaurant, it is THE highlight of the whole Sanabres route!

Pueblo de Sanabria – The albergue did not open until April 1, and I was there on March 29, so I stayed at Hostal Carlo V. It was 35 E and included a sack lunch for the next day, so it was a very nice stay.

Lubian – Municipal Albergue. This was a fine facility, with a kitchen. Two bunks in the kitchen area was strange, other bunks upstairs. Everything in town (bars/shops) is uphill from the albergue!

A Gudina – Municipal Albergue is OK. It is a bit ‘prison-like’ with concrete walls and stairs, but it did have hot showers.

Lassa – For the Xunta Albergue, stop at the Guardia Civil to get the key and check in. The albergue is about 300 meters from the center of town where shops and restaurants are. It is very nice, and I was the only pilgrim there until two bicyclist showed up late.

Xunqueira de Ambia –Xunta Albergue. The facility is nice, but about 500 meters before town.

Ourense – I found a bed bug in the Xunta albergue, so I asked for my money back and left. Straight south from the Xunta albergue on Rua Trivinca almost 1 km is Grelo Hostal, a private albergue. It is very nice, but it does let groups reserve and is sometimes full because of this.

Cea – The municipal albergue is fine. I ate at Sol y Luna on Rua Calvo Sotelo. It is a quiet place with good food and friendly hosts.

Castro Dozon – The municipal albergue is past town about 400 meters, so best to eat or buy groceries before you go out there. It is a large building that looks like it is used for community events from time to time.

Silleda – I stayed at the Albergue Turistica on Rua Venezuela, next to Bar Maril. Good facility with beds and kitchen on the third floor and a nice living area on the fourth floor.

Outeiro – The albergue is in the middle of the forest, with no services nearby. Either stay in Ponte Ulla or bring all the food you need from there (for dinner and breakfast). It does make for a shorter walk into Santiago if you make it to the Outeiro Albergue. It is straight uphill from Ponte Ulla for about an hour!

Santiago – I stayed in Hostal Anosa Casa, about halfway from the Cathedral to the train station. It is near the plaza where you can catch the bus to the airport also. If you are looking for inexpensive, clean, privacy, I recommend it.
 
A

Anemone del Camino

Guest
Thank you for this feedback. If I may, discuss places where I stayed that you did not and a few or commentaries.

Sevilla: Triana Backpackers. Well located in artsy neighbourhood across the river from the main monumentos/touristic area. Easy to find from bus station amd with lots of bars, restaurants and grocery stores near buy. It is open to anyone, and does not close its doors at night, so expect it to be filled with uni kids coming in in the wee hours in the morning. Also, bed rooms are cramped, but each one of them has a full bathroom next to it which is nice. Sheet provided.


Guillena & Castilblanco: lovely hospies, much in the traditional hospy tradition.

Guillena has beds fully made up and lockers for your stuff, as well as two full washrooms. Rooms of 6 or so. Food at the old folks' home up the street is more than adequate, and the couple who runs the restaurant is a lot of fun. Albergue is privately owned, but when I was there a volunteer was there to give the owner a break for a few weeks/months. Hangout space split over two floors and roof top terrance.

Castilblanco is one large dorm, with clean sheet provided, and two full washrooms. A blessing of some sort in the evening for those who want to attend. My first night on VDLP that felt like boarding school again. A great place to showcase my Costco duvet; could have financed my Camino selling those that day. Terrace is great, but even in bad weather there is good space to hang around.

Almaden de la Plata – This albergue is a Turistico, open to all, but managed by Nieves, a lovely woman who takes care of it, and of us, as if it is a Pilgrim albergue. Sheet on the bed, thick blankets for some beds available.

Real de la Jara – beds fully made with duvets for us, but only one washroom for all. No real contact with man running the place, bit impecable, and with no other albergue closer to village life. Do not miss eating from the "carta" at La Cochera.

Monesterio – Parochial Albergue ... When the pilgrim with his mule walked in he asked if I had aeen the "padre" who is in charge of the albergue. I said "no". I had only seen a handsome cyclist who might be a volunteer or paid employee. Think again. :rolleyes: That was the "padre". Ok, he is a bit, a lot ;), neurotic about cleanlisness (recleans up after you've cleaned up) but it is a pity he os not contributing to the gene pool. :oops: Not that I can :D. But also a great teacher to difficult teens, and agood son to hos ailing parents. Behind his sign there is a sign that shows where our 10 or 11€ go, including utilities and the bank for the mortgage. Food for thought.

Fuente de Cantos – Albergue Touristico... Man on mule recommended sataying at the converted convent, this may be the Turistico. I stayed at the beautiful house El Zaguan, the portico. Basic rooms, and minute and overly equpped kitchen. Bathtub!!! :cool: But especially super high vaulted ceilings (I think I slept in the old horae stalls) and a beautiful landscaped courtyard. And the main washroom is worth pics in Architectural Digest.

Zafra – An other old school hospy culture albergue in the center of town, across the street from a fantastic retairant that celebrates locally produced food. Large upper floor appt with only one washroom, but if you are nice, you may be shown to the private one. A room for 2, another for 6, one for 8 and then thedorm. Fully equpped kitchen, with Dia 300m away. A great group of volunteers hospies. If you would like to hospy somewhere on VDLP, contact Antonio.

More later.
 

janecaroline

Devonstreams
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (May 2013) Camino de Madrid -( Aug/ Sept 2014)
Camino Frances - Leon to Santiago - Dec 2014
This is so very useful - thank you so much.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Ourense – I found a bed bug in the Xunta albergue, so I asked for my money back and left. Straight south from the Xunta albergue on Rua Trivinca almost 1 km is Grelo Hostal, a private albergue. It is very nice, but it does let groups reserve and is sometimes full because of this.

Outeiro – The albergue is in the middle of the forest, with no services nearby. Either stay in Ponte Ulla or bring all the food you need from there (for dinner and breakfast). It does make for a shorter walk into Santiago if you make it to the Outeiro Albergue. It is straight uphill from Ponte Ulla for about an hour!
It was too late for me to check out in the middle of the night when I got bitten several times in that albergue in Ourense. Also met very rude hospitalero and I don't think I'll stay there again. Hopefully next time I'll pass through Ourense new Xunta albergue in the center of the town will already be opened.

Not entirely true that in Outeiro there are no services. I don't remember the name of the CR and Restaurante there but it has been discussed in other threads. You can find it if you turn left down the road before the church of Santiago (maybe 50 meters before albergue).
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Not entirely true that in Outeiro there are no services. I don't remember the name of the CR and Restaurante there but it has been discussed in other threads. You can find it if you turn left down the road before the church of Santiago (maybe 50 meters before albergue).
It's Pazo de Galegos, a very nice old family mansion turned into a rural hotel. I have never stayed there but once got a tour when I was out exploring after arriving at the albergue. The family got a sizeable grant back in the day when Spain was promoting rural tourism and they used it very wisely, the result is beautiful. Two generations involved -- the parents, in their 60s-70s and the daughter and her husband (two advertising execs burned out with their careers in Madrid). There is still a working winery as well. Meals are served there, but I think they are mainly for guests. If memory serves, magwood stayed here last year, so anyone who is interested in more details, should check her blog.

Buen camino, Laurie
 

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