What are some traditions along the Camino Frances?

[Darren John]

Hi everybody!

Can anyone help me with some of the traditions along the french way? Things to see and do, or maybe places to visit.

Much Thanks

Darren

 

[Icacos]

Here are just a few, not in order of importance:
Take the train from Bayonne to SJPP,
Attend the Pilgrim Mass in Roncesvalles,
Stay (at least once) in the old albergue in San Juan de Ortega,
Do visit the old church in Rabanal del Camino and stay for Vespers and Gregorian Chants,
Try to pick up a bit of garbage along the way, and definitely don't leave any of your own laying around,
Be grateful; don't complain,
Have a supply of chocolate with you, and share it it others,
Make sure the boots you put on in the morning are your own and not someone else's; ditto for walking poles, and taking clothes off the line,
Leave a donation at bars and cafés if you just stop to use their facilities,
Greet non-peregrinos you pass along the way with a "Buenos Días."
Stop for lots of cafés con leche,
Enjoy your fellow pilgrims.

Buen Camino.

 

[Darren John]

Here are just a few, not in order of importance:
Take the train from Bayonne to SJPP,
Attend the Pilgrim Mass in Roncesvalles,
Stay (at least once) in the old albergue in San Juan de Ortega,
Do visit the old church in Rabanal del Camino and stay for Vespers and Gregorian Chants,
Try to pick up a bit of garbage along the way, and definitely don't leave any of your own laying around,
Be grateful; don't complain,
Have a supply of chocolate with you, and share it it others,
Make sure the boots you put on in the morning are your own and not someone else's; ditto for walking poles, and taking clothes off the line,
Leave a donation at bars and cafés if you just stop to use their facilities,
Greet non-peregrinos you pass along the way with a "Buenos Días."
Stop for lots of cafés con leche,
Enjoy your fellow pilgrims.

Buen Camino.

Thats is an amazing answer!! Could u tell me more about the stone u leave at santa cruz? thanks

 

[Icacos]

......Could u tell me more about the stone u leave at santa cruz? thanks

Sorry, you're asking the wrong person. I am not a proponent of leaving anything at la Cruz de Ferro. But if you do a forum search of Cruz de Ferro, or check this thread https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...stone-at-the-cruz-de-ferro.21624/#post-310034, you can get some info.

 

[waveprof]

Visiting the chickens in the cathedral in Santo Domingo

Leaving a small stone or pebble that bears meaning to you at the Cruz de Ferro (and not leaving other litter there, nor leaving other stones on other monuments along the Camino)

Eating some basque pinxtos and drinking some txakoli and paxtaran.

Eating some galician pulpo and drinking some 5 herb liquor

Eating some spanish morcilla and cheese and drinking some spanish beer

interacting with the local culture as best you can

touring the really unique church in fromista

having your feet washed at the hospital de san nicolas

touching the statue of st james in the cathedral in santiago (it's allowed.....and it is spiritual.....my 14 month old did it unprompted as we walked by, causing the priest to almost fall out of his chair)

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Iacos hit the nail on the head. You may also want to add visiting the church in Eunate, the pilgrims blessing in the evening at the Carbajalas albergue in Leon. As a general rule, do walk the extra 100 meters to visit an ermita, a chapel,don't just walk by as if you have somewhere to go: because you don't, you are there to be there every step of the way. In Astorga, if you get by 2 pm have a cocido maragato, the local specialty. Enjoy tarta de Santiago every opprtunity you get.

For the tiny, tiny, tiny pebble you will take and leave only at Cruz de Ferro, these days it's supposed to symbolise all the baggage you bring with you and will be leaving behind there. Not the original reason for this structure, but its contemporary use.

 

[7wood]

Drink some Pacharan and ice in Pamplona or anywhere you can get it.

 

[waveprof]

Drink some Pacharan and ice in Pamplona or anywhere you can get it.

You can get it pretty much the entire way (although it is from the Basque Country). I love paxtaran, but I'll hold on having ice in it.

 

[Tincatinker]

Cafe solo y Orujo. Breakfast of Champions

 

[Helen1]

Totally agree with Anemone’s comment about stopping at churches. I am not a Catholic and would define my faith as ‘confused’ but I think that stopping at the churches and taking the time for a couple of minutes quiet reflection is super important.

If you have time, take the train to Ovideo and visit the Cathedral. This is an ancient tradition - ‘Those who go to Santiago and not to Salvador (Oviedo), visit the servant (St James Apostle) and not the Lord (Jesus Christ)’.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Bishop's Prison Museum in SJPP
Pilgrim Mass at Roncesvalles
Burgos Cathedral
The Choo-choo train at Burgos
Museum of Evolution in Burgos
Leon Cathedral and Museum
Gaudi Bishop's House in Astorga
Tapas on Calle Laurel in Logroño
Vespers in Rabanal del Camino
Ermita Virgen de la Peña at Tosantos
Footwashing at San Nicholas
Wine at Irache

 

[Icacos]

Eating some basque pinxtos and drinking some txakoli and paxtaran.

Eating some galician pulpo and drinking some 5 herb liquor

Eating some spanish morcilla and cheese and drinking some spanish beer

Drink some Pacharan and ice in Pamplona or anywhere you can get it.

Cafe solo y Orujo. Breakfast of Champions

Wine at Irache

I did not partake in any alcoholic beverage while in Spain, but I will defend to the death others' right to do so, and to enjoy it!

 

[Icacos]

......You may also want to add visiting the church in Eunate .......

Absolutely! But check the opening times. We got there an hour before it was due to open and we didn't want to wait; besides it was very cold that morning. The Eunate church is a fair bit off by itself and there's nowhere to keep warm or have a café con leche while waiting for it to open. And I think the albergue adjacent to the church was already closed. There are ample grounds there tho' where one can have a picnic lunch.

 

[whariwharangi]

Thats is an amazing answer!! Could u tell me more about the stone u leave at santa cruz? thanks

It has been a custom to build SMALL cairns to mark trails for navigation purposes. Often these cairns are built to mark the high point on a hill.

Cruz de Ferro is the highest point on the camino. People have somehow twisted the tradition of building a cairn for navigation purposes into a cairn as a memorial. Pilgrims often bring stones (usually a small pebble) and leave them on the cairn and say a prayer. Some people overdo it ... and leave photographs and other inappropriate memorabilia (aka garbage).

The cairn is now large enough so that there is no mistaking it for another. There is no need for more gravel.

However, rumour has it that the local Templars want to build a defensive fort (as a result of increasing rumours of violence on the camino). So if you must bring a stone you are asked to bring one large enough to make at least a brick sized building block. (Galicia already has a surfeit of gravel over and above that which is (illegally) imported by pilgrims)

Apparently some pilgrims from the Klondike area recently left some gold bearing nuggets there ... so you might want to bring a sluice box.

On a more serious note: take only photos; leave only footprints.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Totally agree with Anemone’s comment about stopping at churches. I am not a Catholic and would define my faith as ‘confused’ but I think that stopping at the churches and taking the time for a couple of minutes quiet reflection is super important.’.

Thank you Helen for your enthusiasm about Eunate. I would like to build on your statement about being Catholic or not. The churches are religious buildings first and foremost but also pillars of our knowledge of the history at the time.

If there is someone attending visitors, ask them for explanations about the church. No doubt you will get the phine book of which virgin this statue is or is not, but you can also learn a lot. The chapel as you leave Melide is a jewel. It mixes Catholic, Celtic and ... Symbolism. The X&Y representing man and woman in its carvings, and a damier which is apparenty a symbol of the Camino and a way to tell pilgrims that they were on route (because there were so many other churches and they could get confused).

Please don't just run in to get you sello like I saw people doing just before Lavacola. Do they have no sens at all about what this building is about?

Oh, and staying in a paradero if you can afford it could be considered a tradition. Santo Domingo has one, and then Santiago. The one in Villafranca del Bierzo is some sortmof modern building, can't quite see e point.

 

[SeaHorse]

I did not partake in any alcoholic beverage while in Spain, but I will defend to the death others' right to do so, and to enjoy it!

I didn't drink cafe con leche at all, but enormous quantities of vino tinto, normally at home I can't drink even 10% of that. Funny, but no ill effects. And orange juice (zumo de naranja), more than water.

Yes, do go in the Cathedral of Burgos, its marvelous. They charge entrance fee and my friend didn't go, because churches must be free, but she missed a lot! Take your pilgrim passport, will be cheaper.

 

[Lachance]

Cafe solo y Orujo. Breakfast of Champions

Crikey, never heard of this stuff, but from what Google says it looks even more lethal than home made grappa. You must be a champion if you can slug it down for brekkie before another long camino day.

 

[Lachance]

I didn't drink cafe con leche at all, but enormous quantities of vino tinto, normally at home I can't drink even 10% of that. Funny, but no ill effects. And orange juice (zumo de naranja), more than water.

Wonderful news! In younger days red was the only wine. I pitied with a tinge of scorn those older women obliged to opt for pallid white as red no longer agreed with them. Fate is cruel. The camino gets another tick in the pro box.

 

[SeaHorse]

Hmm? Is there an age when red wine doesn't agree any more?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Crikey, never heard of this stuff, but from what Google says it looks even more lethal than home made grappa. You must be a champion if you can slug it down for brekkie before another long camino day.

Lachance, in bars the oroju sits in the counter and is dispensed like vinegar, with a dropper of some sort. You only put in a few drops of it in your coffee. Mind you, this is jot commonly found in the bars, I think I have only seen it in one as I came into Ponferada. And yes, there is home made stuff but also very high quality orujo, sometimes flavoured wirh herbs or coffee.

 

[Bernard duffy]

Totally agree with Anemone’s comment about stopping at churches. I am not a Catholic and would define my faith as ‘confused’ but I think that stopping at the churches and taking the time for a couple of minutes quiet reflection is super important.

If you have time, take the train to Ovideo and visit the Cathedral. This is an ancient tradition - ‘Those who go to Santiago and not to Salvador (Oviedo), visit the servant (St James Apostle) and not the Lord (Jesus Christ)’.

Totally with you here,i'm not religious at all but i do love spending a few refective minutes in some churches,just perfect peace.

 

[John Sikora]

Drink some Pacharan and ice in Pamplona or anywhere you can get it.

Forgot about the Pacharan. I've been to Spain a few times (first Camino is in August-October). It really is a great drink after a long walk.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Cola Cao!

 

[whariwharangi]

Cafe solo y Orujo. Breakfast of Champions

Ex-champions ...

 

[vgen5122]

Thats is an amazing answer!! Could u tell me more about the stone u leave at santa cruz? thanks

It was my understanding that a pilgrim can bring A stone from home and place it at the foot of the cross. There is a prayer which I believe was translated from French to English and goes as follows:

Prayer At The Iron Cross
Cruz de Ferro

Oh, Lord,
May the stone which I bring to this Holy place,
Be a sign of my pilgrimage to Santiago.

In hope that when I reach my final judgement,
That it may tip the balance of my life in favor of my good deeds.

I now lay down this token which I have carried from City, town, country.

Please forgive my sins and help me carry my burdens in life-Amen.

I carried my stone from the the front of my home all they way to Cruz de Ferro in September of 2013.

 

[nathanael]

Here are just a few, not in order of importance:
Take the train from Bayonne to SJPP,
Attend the Pilgrim Mass in Roncesvalles,
Stay (at least once) in the old albergue in San Juan de Ortega,
Do visit the old church in Rabanal del Camino and stay for Vespers and Gregorian Chants,
Try to pick up a bit of garbage along the way, and definitely don't leave any of your own laying around,
Be grateful; don't complain,
Have a supply of chocolate with you, and share it it others,
Make sure the boots you put on in the morning are your own and not someone else's; ditto for walking poles, and taking clothes off the line,
Leave a donation at bars and cafés if you just stop to use their facilities,
Greet non-peregrinos you pass along the way with a "Buenos Días."
Stop for lots of cafés con leche,
Enjoy your fellow pilgrims.

Buen Camino.

If you want a few days of spiritual RnR you can stay at the monastery in Rabanal it is simple a beautiful spiritual rest. I did last year stayed 3 days with the two monks and they provide you with 3 meals.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

And when you get to Santiago, the Cathedral roof-top tour is well worth it. Expensive but super informative and beautiful. That is, unless you have fear of heights.

 

[Castilian]

Crikey, never heard of this stuff, but from what Google says it looks even more lethal than home made grappa. You must be a champion if you can slug it down for brekkie before another long camino day.

Maybe, you heard about carajillo. A carajillo is coffee with some alcoholic beverage with high alcohol % like brandy, rum or orujo; depending on where you drink it and/or your preferences.

You can get it pretty much the entire way (although it is from the Basque Country).

The origins of the Pacharán (name in Spanish)/Patxaran(name in Basque) are commonly said to be in Navarre although not everybody seems to agree. Some reading about the origin of Pacharán/Patxaran: http://sites.google.com/site/curiosidadesdenavarra/curiosidades/el-licor-de-pacharan

 

[waveprof]

I think one cannot repeat this often enough. These piles of stones on perfectly visible waymarkers on wide paths in the countryside, and what people leave behind around crosses and memorials - it strikes me as a rather modern "tradition".
I used to think at first that the items are ex-votos and are based on some local tradition but it's not really a fitting explanation, is it?

Even I, as a defender of leaving a small stone at the Cruz de Fero, whole heartedly agree with this. It's a modern tradition and a rude one. The Cruz de Fero is widespread enough and now ingrained in pilgrim culture enough that I'm happy to partake (with a rock, not other trash). But condoning that is all the MORE reason not to let that "tradition" spread to countless other way markers. The amount of stuff left behind on the trail is sickening.

 

[HuffyCane]

I don't want to be "that guy" but I will point out that more than half of the country under 35 is unemployed. Most are on some type of government assistance. If litter is a problem, there is also a solution beyond educating people to leave no trace. As for the burden of leaving a quarter sized stone or less, if the local infrastructure cannot solve this problem through prison labor or paid government workers after the levying of an appropriate regional use tax, then I don't really feel bad at all about leaving a stone in furtherance of my faith. They get the benefits of me stopping and spending money. They can spend a little to solve a relatively minor problem.

 

[HuffyCane]

Just out of curiosity: do they have prisoners who are working outside prisons in Spain? I have seen this in US movies but don't think it is something universal.

I have seen the Cruz de Ferro site only on screen and photos so far but what I've read makes me think that I may not go too close.

The piles of stones seen so frequently on paths marked as St James' Ways are more an eyesore than litter such as plastic bottles and tissues, and are found around ancient monuments and old and modern waymarkers. I have seen it mainly on paths walked by modern pilgrims. I freely admit that, on the via Turonensis, I have occasionally pushed off a few when a modern, aesthetically and ergonomically pleasing waymarker called me to do so. It had a soothing effect on my body, mind and soul. Maybe the start of a new tradition ?

Yes. Prisoners work inside and outside of prison in Spain. In fact, according to some experts, the number of prisoners willing and wanting to work in jobs like landscape architecture of public monuments like Cruz de Ferro is greater than the funds and guards necessary to manage the program. You can pretty much go into any prison in the world and ask them if they want to spend their daylight hours in a public park in exchange for picking up trash and you'll get plenty of people saying yes. The only people who will want to stay in the dark and filth are making money in illicit activities and don't want their cell unsupervised.

In fact a hierarchy of who gets to go out and enjoy the sunshine will quickly form. The problem is people with little inkling of how a prison works think it's slave labor and prevent it. Others don't want to pay to train inmates in jobs like these and they don't want the security risk. The reality is that in a country like Spain, landscaping, agriculture, property maintenance, and other jobs like this are probably the best bet at a first job when they get out. The disciplinary record of prisoners with work release jobs is spotless. They don't want to lose the gig. And they enjoy it. Put them to work. They will thank you. I will thank you. The Caminon will thank you.

 

[Lachance]

Hmm? Is there an age when red wine doesn't agree any more?

Yes, my child, sometimes for those who least expect it. But not for all, so fingers crossed. Losing a taste for fizz more common in my experience.

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

Hi everybody!

Can anyone help me with some of the traditions along the french way? Things to see and do, or maybe places to visit.

Much Thanks

Darren

Breakfast Cebreiro cheese with honey and quince jelly at O Cebreiro, treat yourself to a crêpe in Fonfría, have a glass or two of home-distilled orujo in Portomarín, lunch octopus at Ezequiel (or any other bar/restaurant else) in Melide, snack on Arzúa-Ulloa cheese in Arzúa, pretend you can tell the difference between your Albariño and your Godello (or your Tempranillo and your Mencía).

and one that's not food or drink:

Jump into one of the dodgy streams at Lavacolla (nude) and shock the locals

 

[Pelegrin]

Lachance, in bars the oroju sits in the counter and is dispensed like vinegar, with a dropper of some sort. You only put in a few drops of it in your coffee. Mind you, this is jot commonly found in the bars, I think I have only seen it in one as I came into Ponferada. And yes, there is home made stuff but also very high quality orujo, sometimes flavoured wirh herbs or coffee.

"in bars the oroju sits in the counter and is dispensed like vinegar".

This is basically a rural Galician custom. So, Ponferrada is the limit on the Camino, thank you for the information.

 

[Pelegrin]

Breakfast Cebreiro cheese with honey and quince jelly at O Cebreiro, treat yourself to a crêpe in Fonfría, have a glass or two of home-distilled orujo in Portomarín, lunch octopus at Ezequiel (or any other bar/restaurant else) in Melide, snack on Arzúa-Ulloa cheese in Arzúa, pretend you can tell the difference between your Albariño and your Godello (or your Tempranillo and your Mencía).

and one that's not food or drink:

Jump into one of the dodgy streams at Lavacolla (nude) and shock the locals

"treat yourself to a crêpe in Fonfría"
I don´t know the crepes in Fonfria but I think that they must be filloas. Filloas are very similar to crepes but not exactly the same thing.

"pretend you can tell the difference between your Albariño and your Godello (or your Tempranillo and your Mencía)".
It depends on the person and his/her interest in wines, but I think that in both cases is easy to tell the difference.

 

[Griffin57]

Chocolate con churros at the Valor shop in Burgos! The only time I could eat this is when I've burned my 'camino calories'.

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

"treat yourself to a crêpe in Fonfría"
I don´t know the crepes in Fonfria but I think that they must be filloas. Filloas are very similar to crepes but not exactly the same thing.

"pretend you can tell the difference between your Albariño and your Godello (or your Tempranillo and your Mencía)".
It depends on the person and his/her interest in wines, but I think that in both cases is easy to tell the difference.

indeed they are, however, the lady that's jumps out of her home with steaming crêpes/filloas at Fonfría is better known as 'the crêpe lady' amongst the pilgrims.

can you really tell the difference between a glass of godello and albariño?, a tip of my hat to you sir!

 

[waveprof]

Sucrem in Burgos is a Camino MUST

 

[Pelegrin]

indeed they are, however, the lady that's jumps out of her home with steaming crêpes/filloas at Fonfría is better known as 'the crêpe lady' amongst the pilgrims.

can you really tell the difference between a glass of godello and albariño?, a tip of my hat to you sir!

Talking about good and pure wines in both cases. For me Albariño (D.O. Rias Baixas) is more delicate and has more nuances than Godello (D.O Valdeorras or Rias Baixas). Therefore Godello is stronger and flatter. Actually Godello often appears mixed with other varieities (including Albariño) to improve the final product and it seems that also improves beeing aged in barrel.
Of course in case of a bad Albariño is much more difficult to tell the difference.

 

[HuffyCane]

indeed they are, however, the lady that's jumps out of her home with steaming crêpes/filloas at Fonfría is better known as 'the crêpe lady' amongst the pilgrims.

can you really tell the difference between a glass of godello and albariño?, a tip of my hat to you sir!

Women jumping at you with pastry. Sounds like paradise ...

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

Talking about good and pure wines in both cases. For me Albariño (D.O. Rias Baixas) is more delicate and has more nuances than Godello (D.O Valdeorras or Rias Baixas). Therefore Godello is stronger and flatter. Actually Godello often appears mixed with other varieities (including Albariño) to improve the final product and it seems that also improves beeing aged in barrel.
Of course in case of a bad Albariño is much more difficult to tell the difference.

must disagree, i'm more of a godello fan myself, but then again, by the second glass i don't really care what i'm drinking!

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

Women jumping at you with pastry. Sounds like paradise ...

and it will only cost you a euro!

 

[naplesdon]

I think one cannot repeat this often enough. These piles of stones on perfectly visible waymarkers on wide paths in the countryside, and what people leave behind around crosses and memorials - it strikes me as a rather modern "tradition".
I used to think at first that the items are ex-votos and are based on some local tradition but it's not really a fitting explanation, is it?

I have left several small stone and photographs at the Cruz de Ferro over the years; I thought it was "the thing to do." As I think about it, what does the provincial government do with this pile of stuff at the end of every year? It has to be an enormous burden for them and their meager budget.
I remember my days as a young boy at Boy Scout camp where it was a tradition for every camper to throw a stone into a pond near the dining hall, my scoutmaster warned me, "one day that pond will be no more, it will just be a pile of stones."

 

[Pabloke]

Just out of curiosity: do they have prisoners who are working outside prisons in Spain? I have seen this in US movies but don't think it is something universal.

If you are referring to those forced labours like breaking stones up or so (as in Brubaker), absolutely not, Spanish legislation doesn't consider it.

But depending on what kind of sentence one prisoner is serving, the judge may allow him/her to leave the prison to work. And, obviously, those on 3rd degree (just sleeping in prison) are free to work as anybody is.

 

[Coleen Clark]

Breakfast Cebreiro cheese with honey and quince jelly at O Cebreiro, treat yourself to a crêpe in Fonfría, have a glass or two of home-distilled orujo in Portomarín, lunch octopus at Ezequiel (or any other bar/restaurant else) in Melide, snack on Arzúa-Ulloa cheese in Arzúa, pretend you can tell the difference between your Albariño and your Godello (or your Tempranillo and your Mencía).

and one that's not food or drink:

Jump into one of the dodgy streams at Lavacolla (nude) and shock the locals

Well, no. I can hear the locals saying "Her bathing suit needs ironing." "She's not wearing one." "Oh. Ew."
But I Will try all the food, visit all the wonderful historical places, and give a hug to whomever really really needs it, because Nana's got your back.

 

[Icacos]

Suggest taking the detour to Samos between Triacastela and Sarria to see the monastery. The monastery tour was very interesting; it was however only available in Spanish, but we were fortunate that there was a woman in our group who was able to translate for us, and the guide was accommodating.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Suggest taking the detour to Samos between Triacastela and Sarria to see the monastery. The monastery tour was very interesting; it was however only available in Spanish, but we were fortunate that there was a woman in our group who was able to translate for us, and the guide was accommodating.

I like that route better than the main route simply for the beauty of it.
I go that way every year with my groups, not because of the Monastery, which is often closed when we leave, but because the trail is so beautiful.

 

[Castilian]

This is basically a rural Galician custom. So, Ponferrada is the limit on the Camino, thank you for the information.

Just to avoid misunderstandings, let's recall that Ponferrada isn't in Galicia but in Castile and Leon.

 

[Griffin57]

Hi everybody!

Can anyone help me with some of the traditions along the french way? Things to see and do, or maybe places to visit.

Much Thanks

Darren

Staying at Granon a unique and wonderful place. When else can you sleep in a church? The camaraderie between pilgrims and the atmosphere is unprecedented. As long as you don't mind sleeping on a gym mat on the floor? I wouldn't miss it for the world!

 

[Icacos]

I like that route [to Samos] better than the main route simply for the beauty of it.
I go that way every year with my groups, not because of the Monastery, which is often closed when we leave, but because the trail is so beautiful.

Yes, I agree that the trail to Samos is beautiful.

I also agree Annie, as you mentioned in an earlier post, that the museum attached to the León cathedral is worth visiting. I loved seeing all the old artwork, carvings and bits and pieces of old treasures (there is a countless number of these treasures). As I recall there were also items that harken back to some darker periods of the Church's history which I couldn't help but find a bit unsettling, still it is well worth seeing all that has been retrieved and preserved from those innumerable bygone churches.

 

[waveprof]

Samos diversion is a must. Not only a beautiful trek, and a wonderful cathedral, but you'll also need the extra isolation for one last day to get your mind ready for what awaits in Sarria.

I'd also recommend taking the high road over montjardin

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

hmm... i kinda like the san xil route to sarria better than the samos one. as for the monastery... well... it's not everybody's cup of tea, especially the frescoes on the first floor, perhaps as a spaniard i'm a bit historically/politically biased.