markmcilroy
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- CF 2016
CF 2017
Le Puy 2018
CF 2022
VDLP 9/ 2023
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I've only walked as far as Burgos (so far), but Church of the Assumption in Navarette, hands down. (Although I'll always be partial to Burgos Cathedral.) The retablo is stunning. The photo I took has been the picture on my lock screen ever since. That was 2 1/2 years ago. It still brings me peace and joy to look at it.
Eunate hands down. A small detour before Puente La Reina.
The the small church on the way out of Melide calle Santa Maria. Ask for a guide tour.
The small 13th century church at Zabaldika, St Stephens, is beautiful in its simplicity and well worth the short detour to get to it. The sisters of the Sacred Heart look after it and it is open in the mornings from 8 to 1 pm and then in the evenings at 6.00 pm. Many visitors notice that is has an unique energy. For those staying in the attached albergue (the best on the Camino in my opinion ), there is a Benediction in the choir of the church in the evening. Pilgrims are encouraged to go up to the bell tower to ring the bell, which is the oldest in Navarre, and to send their prayers out into the valley. The grounds are very peaceful and inviting with tables and chairs so that you can stop and have your lunch or snacks in the shade. From the church you do not need to retrace your steps and go down the hill, as you connect with the Camino path again and dont need to climb up the hill again. I worked at the albergue in June, and loved being in the Church every day and seeing the pilgrims relaxing in the garden.Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.
As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?
thanks,
Mark.
The small 13th century church at Zabaldika, St Stephens, is beautiful in its simplicity and well worth the short detour to get to it. The sisters of the Sacred Heart look after it and it is open in the mornings from 8 to 1 pm and then in the evenings at 6.00 pm. Many visitors notice that is has an unique energy. For those staying in the attached albergue (the best on the Camino in my opinion ), there is a Benediction in the choir of the church in the evening. Pilgrims are encouraged to go up to the bell tower to ring the bell, which is the oldest in Navarre, and to send their prayers out into the valley. The grounds are very peaceful and inviting with tables and chairs so that you can stop and have your lunch or snacks in the shade. From the church you do not need to retrace your steps and go down the hill, as you connect with the Camino path again and dont need to climb up the hill again. I worked at the albergue in June, and loved being in the Church every day and seeing the pilgrims relaxing in the garden.
rviliYes this was great and stay there if you can. Had one of our most spiritual stays there and a great communal dinner too.
One church not mentioned is at Vilar de Donas - a ways off the Camino Frances between Ligonde and Palais de Reis. What amazed me was being up close to artifacts and frescoesLast year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.
As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?
thanks,
Mark.
I agree with simple. Villamayor de Monjardín, for example. Twelve kilometers further in Los Arcos, it is so gaudy that it's depressing and tacky.I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.
As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?
I loved this church also, located in the olive groves just off trail with its semi-abandoned feeling. It provided some very special moments of awe and reflection.Hermitage of San Miguel Arcángel near Villatuerta. It may not be the most beautiful (though in my eyes it has great beauty) but it's setting in an olive grove, it's history, age and the near abandoned feeling of it make it very special. It's remained one of the most memorable churches for me.
The small 13th century church at Zabaldika, St Stephens, is beautiful in its simplicity and well worth the short detour to get to it. . . .
Best audio-guide ever!I also loved the cathedral in Leon for its abundance of gorgeous stained glass windows. I was blown away when during my tour it was mentioned that they were all removed piece by piece, stored in boxes for 50 years, then reassembled after the architectural problems were solved... Amazing what man can do!
Torres del Rio
May not be the most beautiful but mass and vespers at Rabanal prior to Cruz Ferro was emotional and beautiful. Mass and confessions set me up for the arrival into Cruz Ferro.Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.
As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?
thanks,
Mark.
Exactly Renshaw, how could we forget that one......maybe a slight hint is needed Renshaw to remind the pilgrims that had sweat in their eyes at the time they walked past it?View attachment 35056
Hey! we forgot this one?
Ok...no idea about this one Renshaw, please enlighten.View attachment 35058
And we forgot this ........
A note on the cathedrals: The Burgos Cathedral was amazing, but after about a half an hour I was on sensory overload. It was like my cells could not take any more. It took me another good half hour to get out of that place, and I had to take a nap afterwards (I am *so* not a nap person).
I loved the Cathedral in Leon. The grandeur of the Gothic architecture and the beauty of the stained glass as the sun streamed in I found much more holy.
And I have to wonder about the churches in so many villages that were locked and inaccessible-- what treasures might be hidden behind those locked doors?
Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.
As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?
thanks,
Mark.
I agree with you about the rawness and simplicity of the little church at Rabanal dell Camino. The brothers who are renovating it offer a blessing for pilgrims for their onward journey. I was lucky enough to have had mass there, offered by an American priest who was a fellow peregrino, that along with the Gregorian Chants of the Brothers made for a powerful spirit filled visit.Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.
As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?
thanks,
Mark.
Thank you, I have added to the list on Day 14.I was amazed at the variety of experiences in the churches along the CF. Sometimes the simplest building would overwhelm me with emotion, while the grand cathedrals in Burgos and Leon were architecturally stunning but often left me feeling cold, and sometimes sad at the excess (WWJD?). I seemed to find more spiritual "juice" in some of the smaller, unassuming chapels. (I often wondered if this had more to do with my state of mind/heart than the buildings themselves...)
One church definitely stands out. In Hontanas on the Thursday before Easter, I popped into the Iglesia de la Concepcion Inmaculada (just before Castrojeriz on the CF), just to have a look. The church building was nice enough but fairly unremarkable, in fact the altar was undergoing renovation and had painted plywood facades of its former/future glory. But the vibe inside that church was ethereal. I was immediately drawn to a corner in the back where a big sand tray with candles was set up, surrounded by cushions on the floor and bibles in 7 or 8 different languages. Never seen anything like that in a Catholic church -- so much more inviting than the hard regimented wooden pews. I immediately dug into my pocket for coins, lit some candles and then sank onto the cushions ... sat there the longest time soaking up the lovely vibe ... finally got to meditate (which seemed impossible in the hostels). At one point, a kind priest gently interrupted and asked if he could give me a cross on a cord that had been blessed for Holy Week... he quietly placed it around my neck. It was such a kind and unexpected gesture, I was just overwhelmed & could not stop the flood of tears that came up.
It turned out the 12:30 Mass was about to begin, and unlike most churches in Spain, this one had Mass pamphlets in several languages so non-Spanish speakers could follow along. As a lapsed Catholic, I have my "issues" with the sometimes boring tedium of the Mass, but this time the ancient familiar words seemed to go directly into my heart. This priest, in particular, had such a warm presence and his recitation of the Mass was more soulful than most. I went to several more Masses along the Camino, but none of them touched my heart the way that Mass in that church did. I would not normally choose to wear a cross, but I wore that one for the rest of my journey and most definitely felt blessed every step of the way.
I believe some places have a much stronger spiritual energy than others. And I suspect this is also true of people.
Thank you, many respondents have mentioned Eunate as their favourite.Eunate.
And then Rabanal. I love the simplicity of these Romanic Churches. Many years ago, maybe 2008 or 2009, there were excavations going on in the church of Rabanal and most of the floor had been dug up, exposing all sorts of interesting things below.! Mass was held in the back part of the, already small church, so everybody was cramped together.
Entering the Cathedral of Santiago is always a very special moment for me. I feel I have come home!
I agree. Lovely little church. I was lucky enough to stay in Hontanas on a Sunday just after Easter. A pilgrim mass was offered at 6 pm with some really good singing from the local women. At the end of the mass the pilgrims were called forward, each of us was blessed one by one and given a cross on a string. Wonderful experience.I was amazed at the variety of experiences in the churches along the CF. Sometimes the simplest building would overwhelm me with emotion, while the grand cathedrals in Burgos and Leon were architecturally stunning but often left me feeling cold, and sometimes sad at the excess (WWJD?). I seemed to find more spiritual "juice" in some of the smaller, unassuming chapels. (I often wondered if this had more to do with my state of mind/heart than the buildings themselves...)
One church definitely stands out. In Hontanas on the Thursday before Easter, I popped into the Iglesia de la Concepcion Inmaculada (just before Castrojeriz on the CF), just to have a look. The church building was nice enough but fairly unremarkable, in fact the altar was undergoing renovation and had painted plywood facades of its former/future glory. But the vibe inside that church was ethereal. I was immediately drawn to a corner in the back where a big sand tray with candles was set up, surrounded by cushions on the floor and bibles in 7 or 8 different languages. Never seen anything like that in a Catholic church -- so much more inviting than the hard regimented wooden pews. I immediately dug into my pocket for coins, lit some candles and then sank onto the cushions ... sat there the longest time soaking up the lovely vibe ... finally got to meditate (which seemed impossible in the hostels). At one point, a kind priest gently interrupted and asked if he could give me a cross on a cord that had been blessed for Holy Week... he quietly placed it around my neck. It was such a kind and unexpected gesture, I was just overwhelmed & could not stop the flood of tears that came up.
It turned out the 12:30 Mass was about to begin, and unlike most churches in Spain, this one had Mass pamphlets in several languages so non-Spanish speakers could follow along. As a lapsed Catholic, I have my "issues" with the sometimes boring tedium of the Mass, but this time the ancient familiar words seemed to go directly into my heart. This priest, in particular, had such a warm presence and his recitation of the Mass was more soulful than most. I went to several more Masses along the Camino, but none of them touched my heart the way that Mass in that church did. I would not normally choose to wear a cross, but I wore that one for the rest of my journey and most definitely felt blessed every step of the way.
I believe some places have a much stronger spiritual energy than others. And I suspect this is also true of people.
Of all the churches I have been to on my Caminos this one touched me the most. I could feel the presence of God and just broke down in uncontrollable tears of joy.
My walking partner at the time from Canada started singing when we went inside .The answer to the resistance of the peace sign by Christians - turn the cross upside down.
Here is a photo of the Crucifix in the church in Puenta La Reina. View attachment 35622
My walking partner at the time from Canada started singing when we went inside .
We where with 3 people inside, it sounded so beautyfull in there.
Almost cried my eyes out so emotionally was it.
This was for me the absolute number one.
Wish you all well , Peter.
Hermitage of San Miguel Arcángel near Villatuerta. It may not be the most beautiful (though in my eyes it has great beauty) but it's setting in an olive grove, it's history, age and the near abandoned feeling of it make it very special. It's remained one of the most memorable churches for me.
Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Río, near Villalcázar de Sirga on the longer approach trail into Carrión de los Condes.
I walked pretty much alone on the back road after Frómista, which suited my mood at the time. I could see the wave of pilgrims on the other side of the river following the main road and was glad of the solitude. News from home wasn't great, a good friend had become diagnosed with cancer. Although not a overtly religious person, I was glad to spend ten to fifteen minutes in the Hermitage of our Lady of the River which was re-built in the 18th century, and although undoubtedly lacking the splendour of other more grander churches, it was everything I needed at the time.
That was twelve months ago. My friend received the all clear two weeks ago.
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