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Its the closest thing you can come to that would replicate walking the Camino Frances during the summer 30 years ago. Solitude. Lots to time to reflect. A need to be resourceful because the infrastructure is not complete. No taxigrinos. No tour buses. Just you and the Camino. Like the old days.
@Nanc, what you think you're missing may just be a question of differing motivation. So I'd turn your question around and ask why you walk in the not-winter? The frame of reference will define the question you're asking.
The closest I've come was starting in early March--there was still some snow but it was basically early spring.
I like to go then because of the possibility of solitude, quiet, and for the lack of boozy parties along the way. And because I wanted to test my inner and outer edges.
I walk as a contemplation and as a way to find and challenge limitations. It's not at all about wearing a hairshirt, but I don't necessarily have to be comfortable, or dry, or to carry a light pack, or to have predictably open bars. Open (or warm) albergues are nice, but one makes do with what is there if they're not. And because my limits do get tested, that actually makes winter a better time to walk.
This year my schedule requires a later walk and I'm questioning my sanity about walking in summer. So we have mirror image questions.
@Nanc, if you are not asking for these reasons, why are you asking? I ask because it puzzles me that anyone would think that the motivations for undertaking a pilgrimage are mediated by the seasons and by the physical and logistical challenges that might arise depending on the season.I am not asking to be flip or judgemental, and many of you experienced souls have chosen to do winter caninos. So can I ask WHY?
Beautiful - both the image and the sentiment. I have not walked Camino in winter, but having done winter trips in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, I can understand the appeal - solitude (which some seek rather than fear), and a whole different kind of beauty."le cœur a ses raisons que la raison ne connaît pas/ the heart has its reasons, of which reason knows nothing."
View attachment 30207
Foncebadon, March 2009
@Nanc, if you are not asking for these reasons, why are you asking? I ask because it puzzles me that anyone would think that the motivations for undertaking a pilgrimage are mediated by the seasons and by the physical and logistical challenges that might arise depending on the season.
I second that. Dont even need to formulate my own answer.Its the closest thing you can come to that would replicate walking the Camino Frances during the summer 30 years ago. Solitude. Lots to time to reflect. A need to be resourceful because the infrastructure is not complete. No taxigrinos. No tour buses. Just you and the Camino. Like the old days.
I am not asking to be flip or judgemental, and many of you experienced souls have chosen to do winter caninos. So can I ask WHY?
Many albergues are closed so choices are less and farther between. Merino wool would never dry outdoors ( and in my fall experience, not even in the dryers sometimes). Daylight hours are short, limiting the stretch of your days. Way-marking maybe obscured. The weather seems to be cold and damp which means your feet will be the same. Heavier winter gear means a heavier pack.
So why ARE you doing it? ( I'm obviously missing something here)
Nanc
...My only reservation is packing sensibly to cope with both warmer + colder winter conditions I might encounter on the route. My only fear is having to deal with snow, which is highly probable, and so maybe winter walks also provide me with a bit of risk that is absent in my normal day-to-day routine
Some of the worst weather I ever experienced was in your neck of the woods on the Lake District C2C in early June. My husband and I opted out of Hellvelyn, which is known to be pretty intimidating. But even on a lower ridge, horizontal hail blew in out of nowhere with dense fog and screaming winds. We crawled behind a big boulder on top and waited for a break in the thick fog before carefully picking our way from cairn to cairn, sure we were going to take a tumble all the way to the bottom. We got to a cabin at the first break off the peak to shelter from the wind. A few minutes later, a couple of women found their way to our spot and said they had followed my red jacket through the fog.
The blind leading the blind....and our guardian angels worked overtime yet again.
By the way, for the critics out there...it was clear weather when starting out and didn't get bad until we were nearly on top. I've done a fair bit of mountaineering and winter through hiking and had full spring weather gear. Weather changes, things happen. But the best rule is to hug a tree (or British rock) when lost or socked in and not to move until you're sure it's safe again.
There is nothing on the Camino that intimidated me anywhere near as much as that English trail. Who knew gentle England had knife edge peaks with long drops, scree and scary weather?!
As far as snow, poles and gaiters are helpful and I wouldn't go out without an emergency blanket, extra layer, gloves, good goretex shells in a bright color, hooded insulator, extra socks, snacks, water, full first aid kit, sunglasses, maps, compass, GPS and/or iPhone and backup batteries. Overkill perhaps....except for the one day you need them.
If you do day training hikes on the trails in your area, you will be more than prepared for the Camino. I can't wait to go back to the Lake District and do some "fell walking" (where did THAT expression come from? It is anything but walking!) in clear weather. I hear the views are beautiful!
Using this argument Robert you could just walk the Primitivo in summer instead of the FrancesIts the closest thing you can come to that would replicate walking the Camino Frances during the summer 30 years ago. Solitude. Lots to time to reflect. A need to be resourceful because the infrastructure is not complete. No taxigrinos. No tour buses. Just you and the Camino. Like the old days.
Blaise Pascal?"le cœur a ses raisons que la raison ne connaît pas/ the heart has its reasons, of which reason knows nothing."
View attachment 30207
Foncebadon, March 2009
Yes indeed! Taken from Les Pensées which was first published 1669.Blaise Pascal?
Thanks. I have an English abridgement buried in a box somewhere. Missing it now.Yes indeed! Taken from Les Pensées which was first published 1669.
@grayland Did you find most alburgues closed? I'm heading out this December and have heard very contradicting things on this?I walked the CF in mid January this year...(surprised at the large numbers)
...and..
I walked the Via de la Plata in mid-August a few years ago.
Bookends, I guess.
@grayland Did you find most alburgues closed? I'm heading out this December and have heard very contradicting things on this?
I am not asking to be flip or judgemental, and many of you experienced souls have chosen to do winter caninos. So can I ask WHY?
Many albergues are closed so choices are less and farther between. Merino wool would never dry outdoors ( and in my fall experience, not even in the dryers sometimes). Daylight hours are short, limiting the stretch of your days. Way-marking maybe obscured. The weather seems to be cold and damp which means your feet will be the same. Heavier winter gear means a heavier pack.
So why ARE you doing it? ( I'm obviously missing something here)
Nanc
I am not asking to be flip or judgemental, and many of you experienced souls have chosen to do winter caninos. So can I ask WHY?
Many albergues are closed so choices are less and farther between. Merino wool would never dry outdoors ( and in my fall experience, not even in the dryers sometimes). Daylight hours are short, limiting the stretch of your days. Way-marking maybe obscured. The weather seems to be cold and damp which means your feet will be the same. Heavier winter gear means a heavier pack.
So why ARE you doing it? ( I'm obviously missing something here)
Nanc
... There is also a very up to date list on a website that is very accurate and is updated often. I am on my iPhone now and do not have the website address. Maybe someone can post it for you.
Yes I agree, in fact most Caminos are very solitary (Sureste, Levante, Lana, Madrid,...), the Frances is the exeption which is crowded. Not necessary to do this camino in winter for the only reason to be alone as you can try the others in summer..Using this argument Robert you could just walk the Primitivo in summer instead of the Frances
Wanderer, i too work in a school in Australia and am considerin a winter Camino - i would love to hear about yours!!
- We walked our first Camino Frances December 2014, starting in SJPP, and it was beautiful. Our days were crisp and sunny in the main. Enough alburgues and bars were open - we never cooked our own meals. Fellow pilgrims were enough for camaraderie but it was never crowded. Also, being school teachers in Australia that was the only time period that we had available.
Some of the worst weather I ever experienced was in your neck of the woods on the Lake District C2C in early June. My husband and I opted out of Hellvelyn, which is known to be pretty intimidating. But even on a lower ridge, horizontal hail blew in out of nowhere with dense fog and screaming winds. We crawled behind a big boulder on top and waited for a break in the thick fog before carefully picking our way from cairn to cairn, sure we were going to take a tumble all the way to the bottom. We got to a cabin at the first break off the peak to shelter from the wind. A few minutes later, a couple of women found their way to our spot and said they had followed my red jacket through the fog.
The blind leading the blind....and our guardian angels worked overtime yet again.
By the way, for the critics out there...it was clear weather when starting out and didn't get bad until we were nearly on top. I've done a fair bit of mountaineering and winter through hiking and had full spring weather gear. Weather changes, things happen. But the best rule is to hug a tree (or British rock) when lost or socked in and not to move until you're sure it's safe again.
There is nothing on the Camino that intimidated me anywhere near as much as that English trail. Who knew gentle England had knife edge peaks with long drops, scree and scary weather?!
As far as snow, poles and gaiters are helpful and I wouldn't go out without an emergency blanket, extra layer, gloves, good goretex shells in a bright color, hooded insulator, extra socks, snacks, water, full first aid kit, sunglasses, maps, compass, GPS and/or iPhone and backup batteries. Overkill perhaps....except for the one day you need them.
If you do day training hikes on the trails in your area, you will be more than prepared for the Camino. I can't wait to go back to the Lake District and do some "fell walking" (where did THAT expression come from? It is anything but walking!) in clear weather. I hear the views are beautiful!
Some of the worst weather I ever experienced was in your neck of the woods on the Lake District C2C in early June. My husband and I opted out of Hellvelyn, which is known to be pretty intimidating. But even on a lower ridge, horizontal hail blew in out of nowhere with dense fog and screaming winds. We crawled behind a big boulder on top and waited for a break in the thick fog before carefully picking our way from cairn to cairn, sure we were going to take a tumble all the way to the bottom. We got to a cabin at the first break off the peak to shelter from the wind. A few minutes later, a couple of women found their way to our spot and said they had followed my red jacket through the fog.
The blind leading the blind....and our guardian angels worked overtime yet again.
By the way, for the critics out there...it was clear weather when starting out and didn't get bad until we were nearly on top. I've done a fair bit of mountaineering and winter through hiking and had full spring weather gear. Weather changes, things happen. But the best rule is to hug a tree (or British rock) when lost or socked in and not to move until you're sure it's safe again.
There is nothing on the Camino that intimidated me anywhere near as much as that English trail. Who knew gentle England had knife edge peaks with long drops, scree and scary weather?!
As far as snow, poles and gaiters are helpful and I wouldn't go out without an emergency blanket, extra layer, gloves, good goretex shells in a bright color, hooded insulator, extra socks, snacks, water, full first aid kit, sunglasses, maps, compass, GPS and/or iPhone and backup batteries. Overkill perhaps....except for the one day you need them.
If you do day training hikes on the trails in your area, you will be more than prepared for the Camino. I can't wait to go back to the Lake District and do some "fell walking" (where did THAT expression come from? It is anything but walking!) in clear weather. I hear the views are beautiful!
That’s the ‘blessed’ story I’ve read on this forum. None bletter!I have walked in summer and fall. February-to-April 2014, I restarted my life by walking C.F. after a ten-year camino and life hiatus. I was blessed to fall in mud, twisting my ankle on other side of hill with metal pilgims just outside of Pamplona. Blessed to pray: "no more mud" often. Blessed to continue walking to Astorga, with an eggplant for a foot. Blessed to meet foot surgeon pilgrim from Germany at albergue in Astorga who suggested two things: take bus to Ponferrada bypassing snowy mtn pass, and keep his profession a secret. Blessed in Ponferrada, Priest who oversaw albergue allowed me to recover for 8 days in my own room. I had been a hospitalera there in 2002; he remembered me. Blessed to see Dr in Ponferrada who suggested I quit camino. Blessed to have him bandage my ankle. Blessed to give up Nike running shoes, I always walk in them, but tape made that impossibe. Would have been blessed to have realized Nike running shoes might not be hardy enough for winter walk. Truly blessed to find "miracle boots" in pilgrim bin at albergue in Ponferrada. Blessed boots were my exact size, waterproof, and nearly brand new. Blessed to be hospitalera day of Ponferrada departure. Blessed with a freezing cold night in Logrono. We, blessed pilgrims begged hospitalero for heat, no go. Blessed with many a chilly night. In one albergue, the only other pilgrim was blessed to wear a bright-yellow plastic spaceman-like jumpsuit to bed. Neither he nor I were blessed with pilgrim-to-pilgrim conversation. Blessed to stay alone at an albergue with a tub. Blessed to stay alone at albergue in Valcarlos. Blessed to discover pilgrims are truly looked after. At said refugio, two men showed up at to see what had happened to me. All of the blessed pilgrims with whom I had begun day in SJPP had gone to Roncesvalles. Blessed to have German priest whose bunk was below mine in Santiago tell me about Parador's free pilgrims meals. We: priest, two young Dutch girls I'd met on camino, a few others, and I enjoyed a few hearty meals courtesy of Parador. Blessed to see play in Granon, given by hospitaleros, who were there for training. Blessed to walk in rare unrelentingly hot day on way to Finisterre. Blessed to see this sign on albergue, "closed due to illness". I was blessed to feel ill at thought of walking another 17 kms in blazing heat to an open refugio. Blessed to meet up with camino friends in Fisterra, a German girl and USA guy. They were blessed to have found love on pilgrimage, and a joint hospitalero stint in Fisterra. Will I bless myself with another winter pilgrimage? No. But, I am blessed to have done so!
Still planning my first Camino, but it will likely be winter because the only time I can be away from my job for more than one week is between May 15 and Sept 1 or between Dec 20 and Jan 20. Given those options, I am considering the less crowded and less hot winter time period, though it will mean not doing the entire French route but starting at about 400 miles from Santiago. The big downside I see is the need to carry a heavier pack to accommodate sleeping bag and warmer clothes.
Any advice on this would be much appreciated.
I am not asking to be flip or judgemental, and many of you experienced souls have chosen to do winter caninos. So can I ask WHY?
Many albergues are closed so choices are less and farther between. Merino wool would never dry outdoors ( and in my fall experience, not even in the dryers sometimes). Daylight hours are short, limiting the stretch of your days. Way-marking maybe obscured. The weather seems to be cold and damp which means your feet will be the same. Heavier winter gear means a heavier pack.
So why ARE you doing it? ( I'm obviously missing something here)
Nanc
The term "fell walking" could be a spin off from a Swedish/Norwegian word "fjäll" or mountains. People go wandering there and it is called "fjäll vandring".Some of the worst weather I ever experienced was in your neck of the woods on the Lake District C2C in early June. My husband and I opted out of Hellvelyn, which is known to be pretty intimidating. But even on a lower ridge, horizontal hail blew in out of nowhere with dense fog and screaming winds. We crawled behind a big boulder on top and waited for a break in the thick fog before carefully picking our way from cairn to cairn, sure we were going to take a tumble all the way to the bottom. We got to a cabin at the first break off the peak to shelter from the wind. A few minutes later, a couple of women found their way to our spot and said they had followed my red jacket through the fog.
The blind leading the blind....and our guardian angels worked overtime yet again.
By the way, for the critics out there...it was clear weather when starting out and didn't get bad until we were nearly on top. I've done a fair bit of mountaineering and winter through hiking and had full spring weather gear. Weather changes, things happen. But the best rule is to hug a tree (or British rock) when lost or socked in and not to move until you're sure it's safe again.
There is nothing on the Camino that intimidated me anywhere near as much as that English trail. Who knew gentle England had knife edge peaks with long drops, scree and scary weather?!
As far as snow, poles and gaiters are helpful and I wouldn't go out without an emergency blanket, extra layer, gloves, good goretex shells in a bright color, hooded insulator, extra socks, snacks, water, full first aid kit, sunglasses, maps, compass, GPS and/or iPhone and backup batteries. Overkill perhaps....except for the one day you need them.
If you do day training hikes on the trails in your area, you will be more than prepared for the Camino. I can't wait to go back to the Lake District and do some "fell walking" (where did THAT expression come from? It is anything but walking!) in clear weather. I hear the views are beautiful!
Hi Purple Backpack , I posted some photos last year of the area you are talking about . They are in the section of " where did you walk last year" titled Helvellyn Range . I thought they were quite nice , regards TonySome of the worst weather I ever experienced was in your neck of the woods on the Lake District C2C in early June. My husband and I opted out of Hellvelyn, which is known to be pretty intimidating. But even on a lower ridge, horizontal hail blew in out of nowhere with dense fog and screaming winds. We crawled behind a big boulder on top and waited for a break in the thick fog before carefully picking our way from cairn to cairn, sure we were going to take a tumble all the way to the bottom. We got to a cabin at the first break off the peak to shelter from the wind. A few minutes later, a couple of women found their way to our spot and said they had followed my red jacket through the fog.
The blind leading the blind....and our guardian angels worked overtime yet again.
By the way, for the critics out there...it was clear weather when starting out and didn't get bad until we were nearly on top. I've done a fair bit of mountaineering and winter through hiking and had full spring weather gear. Weather changes, things happen. But the best rule is to hug a tree (or British rock) when lost or socked in and not to move until you're sure it's safe again.
There is nothing on the Camino that intimidated me anywhere near as much as that English trail. Who knew gentle England had knife edge peaks with long drops, scree and scary weather?!
As far as snow, poles and gaiters are helpful and I wouldn't go out without an emergency blanket, extra layer, gloves, good goretex shells in a bright color, hooded insulator, extra socks, snacks, water, full first aid kit, sunglasses, maps, compass, GPS and/or iPhone and backup batteries. Overkill perhaps....except for the one day you need them.
If you do day training hikes on the trails in your area, you will be more than prepared for the Camino. I can't wait to go back to the Lake District and do some "fell walking" (where did THAT expression come from? It is anything but walking!) in clear weather. I hear the views are beautiful!
Winter is a wonderful time to walk but you must be prepared!
To begin your research/planning do check the helpful posts/links in this recent forum thread.
Enjoy the planning and Buen camino!
Hi Tom - we're sitting here going crazy because we can't get over there to do a Camino. Thought we'd look up the idea of going in winter - and take the chance of not being able to get back into Australia. Just saw your post. Wonderful stuff. Thanks.November to mid-December 2008 was my first camino. It was often cold and there was lots of snow in the mountains. Few albergues had central heating ("Calefaccione??" we’d ask in pleading tones at the door) but only a few had neither central heating nor a real fire - which was really the essential thing. It was only the unrelenting wet-cold of Galicia that made any inroads into our morale - and that was later.
https://flic.kr/p/5PSQGc This pic was taken a couple of hours after leaving Rabanal where it had been about minus 5C the evening before. All the snow had turned to ice and walking up or down the village hill was a precarious business. The day before, we arrived at Pilar’s place (the only albergue open in the village) about lunchtime. It was snowing hard and there was some debate as to whether it would be possible to find the way up to Foncebadon, even on the road. So Pilar suggested we eat (great plates of pasta and tomato sauce) and see if the weather improved. Then some elderly locals came in and there followed a great discussion of the weather and whether it would be possible to walk to Foncebadon or not. At some point during the proceedings an unmarked bottle of a golden liquid started being handed around. After a while the conversation became more hypothetical and less leaning towards a practical testing of the options. Later in the dark we all slid clumsily over the ice to the church for the Gregorian chanting. Renovations were taking place and we were placed on a temporary platform overlooking the exposed earthen floor of the church, where a number of skeletons were visible. Even so, I think we all slept well that night. The next morning we said goodbye to the Austrian who had walked this far in sandals and socks, and who would go no further. Others with trainers took up Pilar’s offer of having their feet and lower legs wrapped up with bin liners and bound with sticky tape.
For all of us who’d met over the preceding couple of weeks, it was our first camino and none of us really knew what to expect or how dangerous or otherwise this adventure might be. In fact some of our compadres had gone ahead to Manjarin (which had no electricity or other such comforts) and been snowed in for a couple of days - and seemed all the more exhilrated by the experience.
I’d thought this winter camino would all be a time of solitary reflection in a bleak forbidding landscape. Not at all. The people I met along the way - for whom I blame much - led me into a life of practical jokes, alcoholic consumption, snowball fights, giggling at snorers after lights-out, absurd mirth, incredible generosity (on their part) and deep deep affection. And a lot of that was definitely to do with the season and the kinds of people it attracts.
https://flic.kr/p/5PTcgX
Dan, you're welcome! Thank you for retrieving that post and reminding me of a special time.Hi Tom - we're sitting here going crazy because we can't get over there to do a Camino. Thought we'd look up the idea of going in winter - and take the chance of not being able to get back into Australia. Just saw your post. Wonderful stuff. Thanks.
Dan
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