Camino de Madrid

[Bachibouzouk]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

 

[timr]

Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?

Yes I did, and thoroughly enjoyed it. An interesting place and a very beautiful walk. See here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-short-walk-continued.51788/post-569412

Not sure I have a favourite Camino, but if i did......it would be the CdM.

Tim

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Yes I did, and thoroughly enjoyed it. An interesting place and a very beautiful walk. See here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-short-walk-continued.51788/post-569412

Not sure I have a favourite Camino, but if i did......it would be the CdM.

Tim

Thanks Tim. Looks like you have just added 10kms to my itinerary ;-)

 

[timr]

Thanks Tim. Looks like you have just added 10kms to my itinerary ;-)

I hope you will agree it is worth while.
You will read after that my account of the old convent in Medina del Rioseco. I would be interested to hear of what is available there now.

 

[DTCamino]

I found Jeffrey Barrera’s guidebook to the Camino de Madrid helpful when I walked it in late September last year. Whatever it didn’t cover the forum filled in the blanks. When walking the Buen Camino app and Gronze were also useful.
It’s a wonderful walk. I leave for the Lana this Saturday, but I enjoyed the Madrid so much that I’m already planning to walk it again in 2 years.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I leave for the Lana this Saturday,

Buen Camino and enjoy. I'm pretty certain you will. It's a good 'un.

 

[David Tallan]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

I walked the Camino de Madrid last June. You can see my reports along the way in this thread. As you'll see, I went to Santa Espina - and on to Urueña (based on the virtual Camino thread here). I stayed in La Granja, but the place I stayed seems to have closed. I can't recommend a place in Simancas because I stayed in the nice albergue in Puente Duero.

In terms of planning resources, I also found very useful:
The Camino de Madrid section on Gronze.com, including the "Al Loro" (To the parrot) tab which many don't notice. If Spanish is not your forte, Chrome will translate the site to English.
The Amigos Guide (can also be translated by Chrome)
Ray y Rosa's Guide (They also run a very nice acogida in Manzanares el Real and WhatsApped me the best information about which albergues were open. They were the ones that told me that the albergue in Santa Espina was open when even Gronze was reporting it as closed.)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

I walked the Camino de Madrid in October 2023. In looking at my notes, I stayed at Hotel Pago del Olivo in Simancas and it was very nice, and it offered a good breakfast in the morning with fresh squeezed orange juice before we left; highly recommend.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I walked the Madrid last year, starting about 10 days later than you. Definitely a very good Camino that provided opportunities to meet and interact with many local people.

Pilgrims are still rare on the Madrid, I met six in total (including @David Tallan ), and so the locals really rolled out the red carpet for me.

My only planning resource was the gronze website and when I needed urgent advice on something not covered on the gronze I obtained it from this forum.

Buen camino and I am sure that you will enjoy yourself.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I walked the Camino de Madrid last June.

Hello David - I know you did, you are one of my sources ;-)

Ray y Rosa's Guide (They also run a very nice acogida in Manzanares el Real and WhatsApped me the best information about which albergues were open. They were the ones that told me that the albergue in Santa Espina was open when even Gronze was reporting it as closed.)

Been looking at their guide. Description of the route runs out at Puente Duero but good information up to that point. I will, hopefully overnight at Ray y Rosa, so should be able to get some gaps filled.

Too bad about the albergue in La Granja being closed but I am still keen to walk via San Ildefonso.

Don't know anything about Gronze - will check it out.

Many thanks.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I walked the Madrid last year, starting about 10 days later than you. Definitely a very good Camino that provided opportunities to meet and interact with many local people.

Pilgrims are still rare on the Madrid, I met six in total (including @David Tallan ), and so the locals really rolled out the red carpet for me.

My only planning resource was the gronze website and when I needed urgent advice on something not covered on the gronze I obtained it from this forum.

Buen camino and I am sure that you will enjoy yourself.

No red carpets for me; a definite drawback unfortunately to not speaking the language. In fact, we only met two locals the whole time who spoke any English at all and they were at the reception desks at hotels we stayed at. Once back at Madrid for a few days of sightseeing before going home, there were a few more.
Anyhow, it is my problem, not theirs.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

No red carpets for me; a definite drawback unfortunately to not speaking the language. In fact, we only met two locals the whole time who spoke any English at all and they were at the reception desks at hotels we stayed at. Once back at Madrid for a few days of sightseeing before going home, there were a few more.
Anyhow, it is my problem, not theirs.

I used Ms Google to translate where rquired but people were friendly in general and I find that if both myself and the other person want to communicate then we will find a way.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I used Ms Google to translate where rquired but people were friendly in general and I find that if both myself and the other person want to communicate then we will find a way.

Yes, I did use "Chroogle" a few times, but only when absolutely necessary to get the job done...no real chatting.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Chatting to locals on the Madrid in their house



While eating cake.



In this case the cake, biscuit and coffee were delivered to me outside as I sat in the town square.

 

[Larry OHeron]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

Camino Madrid 2022

Camino Madrid: A Beautiful but Lightly Used Pilgrimage

caminomadrid2022.blogspot.com

I walked the Camino Madrid in 2022. Started in Madrid and stopped in sahagun. You might find some useful info for your planning in my blog.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

We absolutely loved the Camino Madrid. Very few pilgrims, but the variety of landscapes and towns and the villagers who embraced us made this unforgettable. A few things. Despite many attempts over the years when we were in Madrid, we never found the Amigos office open. Never.

Our absolutely best advice: We noticed on Ivar that a lady was walking three days ahead of us. We gave her our text and email address and she kept us informed of where to stay, where not to stay (important), where to get food, meals, etc. This made everything so easy. We then discovered on Ivar that there was a gentleman walking three days after us. We kept him informed, refining the information the lady who walked before us had said. He was extremely grateful.

Hope you are so fortunate. Ever since that time, we always seek out walkers on Ivar who are doing a lesser walked camino path for advice. No guidebooks are that up-to-date nor as descriptive.

 

[frbobs]

It's a different but beautiful Camino, as has been said. I walked it in August 2019.
Your itinerary is pretty much identical to mine. If you need to cut some time, rethink the Valladolid/Tordesillas side trip, and make sure you stay in Segovia (you are going to want to be there longer anyway, one of the coolest cities I've been to).
In La Granja I stayed in the Oyo Hostal: inexpensive, clean, AC; right on one of the main streets (there is a Parador there too). In Simancas, there is a hotel across a small highway as you're leaving town on the Camino (there's the rare ATM heading the same way). Hotel Pago de Olivo; standard, modern hotel, really nice, great breakfast. The restaurant Los Infantes is excellent. It might be a good idea to stay in a nicer place when you can, most of the Madrid is pretty rural, but you will have a bed every night. In case no one has mentioned it, pay more attention to food and water, neither is as available as you would encounter on other routes. All of it adds up to a unique (if not challenging) charm of the Madrid. Have great time. Peace, Bob

 

[Anthony Rocco]

It's a different but beautiful Camino, as has been said. I walked it in August 2019.
Your itinerary is pretty much identical to mine. If you need to cut some time, rethink the Valladolid/Tordesillas side trip, and make sure you stay in Segovia (you are going to want to be there longer anyway, one of the coolest cities I've been to).
In La Granja I stayed in the Oyo Hostal: inexpensive, clean, AC; right on one of the main streets (there is a Parador there too). In Simancas, there is a hotel across a small highway as you're leaving town on the Camino (there's the rare ATM heading the same way). Hotel Pago de Olivo; standard, modern hotel, really nice, great breakfast. The restaurant Los Infantes is excellent. It might be a good idea to stay in a nicer place when you can, most of the Madrid is pretty rural, but you will have a bed every night. In case no one has mentioned it, pay more attention to food and water, neither is as available as you would encounter on other routes. All of it adds up to a unique (if not challenging) charm of the Madrid. Have great time. Peace, Bob

Segovia is indeed a jewel. Please do take this advice and spend extra time there. We also loved Valladolid. And there we had a camino angel which was more common on the Madrid than any other camino we have walked. We got up early and went to a bus stop. A guy driving a Mercedes convertible stopped and asked if we were peregrinos. We said yes. He asked where we were going. We said Simancas. He drove us there, it was a gorgeous morning and he was such a delight. And we saved lots of time. We came back with lots of tales like this which we still smile when we talk about that camino.

 

[Peterborough]

Hello

I am in the planning phase of the Camino de Madrid. Hoping to start walking in late May. The Confraternity of James' guidebook in out of print and no longer available, so I have been basing my research on the Virtual Camino de Madrid thread on this Forum (extremely helpful) and picking up bits and pieces from the internet - in Spanish, not my forte.

I like to walk with a rough idea of where I am going to be and when I am going to be there, if only so as not to arrive somewhere and find the visit is closed because its a Monday in a month that doesn't have 31 days, a Tuesday when the janitor always has his or her day off, etc.... ;-)

My outline presently is:
Tuesday 21 May: fly out to Madrid. Couple of nights in Madrid. Visit the Asociasion office. Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?). Day in San Lorenzo de el Escorial.
Thursday 23 May: Walk to Colmenar Viejo from Plaza de Castilla metro.
Friday 24 May: walk to Cercedilla.
Saturday 25 May: walk to La Granja de San Ildefonso*.
Sunday 26: walk to Segovia.
Monday 27 May: in Segovia.
Tuesday 28 May: walk to Santa Maria de Real de Nieva.
Wednesday 29 May: walk to Coca (Castillo seems to require booking 48 hours prior?).
Thursday 30 May: walk to Alcazeren.
Friday 31 May: walk into Valladolid and get bus to Tordesillas (overnight in Tordesillas). I've been to Valladolid relatively recently so I have no need to tarry there.
Saturday 01 June: walk GR14 along the Duero back to Puente Duero or Simancas**.
Sunday 02 June: walk to Penaflor de Hornija. As far as I can work out Womba church and ossuary should be open to visit.
Monday 03 June: walk to Medino del Rio. There appears to be an alternative route via Santa Espina. Anyone been? Worth doing?
Tuesday 04 June: walk to Villalon de Campos.
Wednesday 05 June: walk to Sahagun.
Thursday 06 June: fly home out of Santander. My flight is early in the day so I may need to get to Santander the previous evening and cut out a day somewhere (Segovia?). Any other ideas on how else to save a day?

* any recommendations as to where to stay in La Granja de San Idelfonso? I understand the albergue in Valsain to be closed.
** any recommendations as to where to stay in Simancas?

All thoughts/recommendations welcome.

Thanks.

I'm thinking about this Camino for next year. I need to do more research but to be honest I'm not keen on the climb up to Segovia. I might take the bus from Madrid. And do Segovia to Santiago

 

[Camino Chrissy]

It's a different but beautiful Camino, as has been said.

In Simancas, we also stayed at Hotel Pago de Oliva. I loved my overnight in Valladolid, which is off trail, but took an easy bus in and out to save time. I agree that Segovia is worthy of two nights; the ancient intact aqueduct alone is worth it, but so many other interesting things to do. I especially liked the tower tour at the cathedral with outstanding views. In fact, I enjoyed the city so much, we are stopping there after Santiago for the day and night before taking the short train ride back to Madrid in time for our flight home.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'm thinking about this Camino for next year. I need to do more research but to be honest I'm not keen on the climb up to Segovia. I might take the bus from Madrid. And do Segovia to Santiago

That is exactly what I did. I'd broken my arm four months earlier and wanted an "easier" Camino and this route was perfect. The weather, minus just one day of cold and rain last October, was great.

 

[lt56ny]

I will be walking over the stones of the Camino Madrid sometime in late October after I finish the Aragones and before I begin the Coastal Portugues. A few bus rides for this camino. Really looking forward to my first Madrid.

 

[frbobs]

I'm thinking about this Camino for next year. I need to do more research but to be honest I'm not keen on the climb up to Segovia. I might take the bus from Madrid. And do Segovia to Santiago

Hello, just FYI, there's a Hostal in Cercedilla (El Aribel), it's on the Camino and the train station is next to it. The train cuts out the mountain and brings you to Segovia. Pretty humbling: takes about a half hour/ 40 minutes, and would be a long, hard day to walk. Hope you get to go.

 

[Albertagirl]

I walked the Madrid last autumn, for the second time, and found it somewhat challenging. I was staying at a hostel in Madrid and getting organized for my walk when I looked for a restaurant in a large square near the albergue. I was warned by a man in the square to watch out for thieves. As I was staying in an albergue, I carried my cash with me. A woman snatched some of it out of my pocket. I grabbed her hand and got it back. No one seemed interested in her action, nor were there any police present in the square. Watch out. Beyond Madrid, I always felt safe and had no further problems with thieves.

 

[Myra13]

Hi. I'm on the Madrid right now. Today we are in La Granja in hostal La Chata. Via booking.com, price includes breakfast (between 9-10am).
Tomorrow after breakfast we will visit the gardens. Then on to Segovia for 2 nights. We're not yet sure of the stages after that.
Until now, we are really enjoying this camino. The surroundings are great. The walk up Fuenfría went fine, it was not as hard as I expected. But somehow it took us quite some time to get here. We didn't take the camino route to La Granja, but got off earlier en walked through a beautiful forest en then alongside the river. I attached the route.

 

[Myra13]

Oh, and you can get the special pilgrim passport at the santiagochurch in Madrid.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

My only planning resource was the gronze website and when I needed urgent advice on something not covered on the gronze I obtained it from this forum.

I've had a quick look at Gronze and it appears to be just what I'm after - elementary and clear and I can understand the Spanish, more or less.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Your itinerary is pretty much identical to mine. If you need to cut some time, rethink the Valladolid/Tordesillas side trip, and make sure you stay in Segovia (you are going to want to be there longer anyway, one of the coolest cities I've been to).

I've stayed in Segovia before, even if it was 30 plus years ago, so that is probably where I'm going to have to save a day. Tordesillas is one of my many favourite places in Spain and I'd like to walk along the Duero for a bit. That side trip is non-negotiable for me.

In La Granja I stayed in the Oyo Hostal: inexpensive, clean, AC; right on one of the main streets (there is a Parador there too). In Simancas, there is a hotel across a small highway as you're leaving town on the Camino (there's the rare ATM heading the same way).

Noted.

Hotel Pago de Olivo; standard, modern hotel, really nice, great breakfast. The restaurant Los Infantes is excellent.

Also noted.

Thanks

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Segovia is indeed a jewel. Please do take this advice and spend extra time there. We also loved Valladolid.

Both great cities, I agree.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Today we are in La Granja in hostal La Chata. Via booking.com, price includes breakfast (between 9-10am).

Noted.

We didn't take the camino route to La Granja, but got off earlier en walked through a beautiful forest en then alongside the river. I attached the route.

Sorry but couldn't figure out the route/map at all ;-(

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Camino Madrid 2022

Camino Madrid: A Beautiful but Lightly Used Pilgrimage

caminomadrid2022.blogspot.com

I walked the Camino Madrid in 2022. Started in Madrid and stopped in sahagun. You might find some useful info for your planning in my blog.

Great read, Larry, and some fine photos.

I've noted the absence of pit-stops along some of the stretches. I like to travel light so not overly keen on carrying water and food (I stop at all the fuentes and a lot of bars!).

Also interesting to read about the temperature variations.

'The journey without a destination seems to be fleeing. The destination without a journey seems to be just escaping.' Words to ponder as I walk.

Thanks

PS I'm one of those who love the great open spaces and the big horizons of the meseta! Give me the meseta over pine forests any day.

 

[Larry OHeron]

Great read, Larry, and some fine photos.

I've noted the absence of pit-stops along some of the stretches. I like to travel light so not overly keen on carrying water and food (I stop at all the fuentes and a lot of bars!).

Also interesting to read about the temperature variations.

'The journey without a destination seems to be fleeing. The destination without a journey seems to be just escaping.' Words to ponder as I walk.

Thanks

PS I'm one of those who love the great open spaces and the big horizons of the meseta! Give me the meseta over pine forests any day.

A mix is always good, but I've been on the meseta three times now on three different caminos and I've always found something to enjoy in the experience

 

[Bachibouzouk]

A mix is always good, but I've been on the meseta three times now on three different caminos and I've always found something to enjoy in the experience

Variety and the spice of life - agreed.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Hi. I'm on the Madrid right now. Today we are in La Granja in hostal La Chata. Via booking.com, price includes breakfast (between 9-10am).
Tomorrow after breakfast we will visit the gardens. Then on to Segovia for 2 nights. We're not yet sure of the stages after that.
Until now, we are really enjoying this camino. The surroundings are great. The walk up Fuenfría went fine, it was not as hard as I expected. But somehow it took us quite some time to get here. We didn't take the camino route to La Granja, but got off earlier en walked through a beautiful forest en then alongside the river. I attached the route.

Buen Camino

Keep those reports coming in. I'm following you.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Oh, and you can get the special pilgrim passport at the santiagochurch in Madrid.

Yes! In the sacristy, and there is a special pilgrim blessing as well. On our most recent camino, even though we weren't walking from Madrid or to Madrid, we went back to the Iglesia de Santiago and asked for a stamp, the last we would get on that trip. The priest at first was puzzled, then smiled, delighted that his stamp was the last.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

I'm thinking about this Camino for next year. I need to do more research but to be honest I'm not keen on the climb up to Segovia. I might take the bus from Madrid. And do Segovia to Santiago

The climb up to the top of the pass was challenging for us. The broken stones of the old Roman road was a twisted ankle waiting to happen. We went slowly. But the walk down from the top of the pass is breathtaking and unforgettable. You can Segovia from miles away and the meseta beyond it. The walk down was more than the worth the challenging walk up.

When we arrived at the outskirts of Segovia, we couldn't take another step with some coffee. The barista served us extra with some cookies. It revived us quickly. The sight of the aquaduct was stunning. We lingered there awhile and came back in the evening when it is all lit up and a jewel.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The sight of the aquaduct was stunning. We lingered there awhile and came back in the evening when it is all lit up and a jewel.

It is amazing and in.pristine condition. We climbed up to a higher elevation at the one end of it during the day, then took this picture as night fell. It's a priceless jewel for sure.

 

[Myra13]

Sorry but couldn't figure out the route/map at all ;-(

when you walk down the pass, you arrive at the Fuente de la Reina (as said at the map) there you don't follow the arrows, but take the road to the right (a little backwards.)
But doing so you don't have the views at Segovia, so maybe make the turn to Valsain/ La Granja later on the route.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

when you walk down the pass, you arrive at the Fuente de la Reina (as said at the map) there you don't follow the arrows, but take the road to the right (a little backwards.)

OK I get it now.

But doing so you don't have the views at Segovia, so maybe make the turn to Valsain/ La Granja later on the route.

That's the route I was thinking of following.

Thanks for clarification.

 

[Larry OHeron]

OK I get it now.



That's the route I was thinking of following.

Thanks for clarification.

Valsain may not have food avail. However hospitalera was an angel.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Las Palomas restaurant in Valsain is very good, though not inexpensive. Closed Mondays.

 

[timr]

A compensatory highlight (after a slightly trying morning) was lunch in the Argentian restaurant in Valsaín. Although it was full, and quite smart - it is not a bar, he fitted me in! Despite all that happened I would happily go again. An easy walk onward to La Granja - you can see it and follow your nose.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-bovine-incident-todo-toro.47949/

 

[Bachibouzouk]

A compensatory highlight (after a slightly trying morning) was lunch in the Argentian restaurant in Valsaín. Although it was full, and quite smart - it is not a bar, he fitted me in! Despite all that happened I would happily go again. An easy walk onward to La Granja - you can see it and follow your nose.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-bovine-incident-todo-toro.47949/

What a wonderful little anecdote and beautifully told. I'd like to have added a laughing emoji to your tale but have no idea how to do it. You'll have to settle for a 'like'.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

In terms of planning resources, I also found very useful:
The Camino de Madrid section on Gronze.com, including the "Al Loro" (To the parrot) tab which many don't notice. If Spanish is not your forte, Chrome will translate the site to English.

Have worked my way through the Gronze itinerary. Google (?) translation very useful - and sometimes rather amusing. Some 'schoolboy howlers' that made me chuckle.

Place names: Three Songs (Tres Cantos), Snow (Nieva) and Crankshaft (Cigunuela).

I also liked: queen stage (etapa reina) for the Cerdilla to Segovia section, which had me wondering what sort of hikers I might encounter that day ;-)

Also on that same stage up to and over Fuenfria; our knees will thank you (nuestra rodillas lo agredeceran).

Gronze reminded me that I should re-read: For Whom The Bell Tolls (Valsain), El Licenciado Vidriera from Cervantes' Exemplary Novels (Coca) and Asterix En Hispanie (Coca).

Asterix En Hispanie is a gentle send-up of Spain, Spaniards and Spanish culture. As always some great names (Soupalognon y Crouton, Ielosubmarine, etc ...), puns and cultural spoofs. Coca, or Cauca, only actually appears in one plate, a very similar one to the following one (Segovia), both are spoofing the Semana Santa processions with a procession of druids.

Coca is only mentioned in a list of Spanish wines that a Genoese innkeeper is serving up to Rodaja, the protagonist of El Licenciado Vidrieda, on his trip around Italy.

As for Whom The Bell Tolls, I will re-read it as I walk. Interestingly the phrase 'Did the earth move for you?' apparently comes from the novel.

Gronze asserts that Cervantes and Shakespeare were in Valladolid at the same period (1605), although without meeting each other. Perhaps? The received wisdom I have is that Shakespeare never ventured abroad. Not sure how much these two great writers had in common anyway but they do appeared to have died within days of each other in 1616.

 

[Myra13]

An update of our camino after staying in Segovia for 2 nights. Our original plan was walking to Añe, because we usually walk 20-25km. But the albergue in Añe is still closed. We didn't want 32 km to Santa Maria, so we walked 13km to Los Huertos and slept in the 4-bed albergue. The bar opend at 17.30 and we had a meal (good hamburger) there.
Next day walked to Santa Maria la Real de Nieva, slept in Hostal Avanto, about 2km before the town. We first walked there, showered and walked without backpack into town.
From there we walked to Coca, about 25km. And there we are now. From here on there are 25km stretches to the next albergues. There are some in between if you walk other distances.
There is also an albergue in the first town out of Segovia, we went there for coffee. This bar als has a pilgrimsmenu! But is closed on monday and thursday afternoon. So this maybe an option if you don't want or need to stay in Segovia.
Buen Camino
Myra

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Gronze reminded me that I should re-read: For Whom The Bell Tolls (Valsain), El Licenciado Vidriera from Cervantes' Exemplary Novels (Coca) and Asterix En Hispanie (Coca).

I was definitely thinking about For Whom The Bell Tolls as I walked the Madrid. I could imagine the bands of people in the hills.

As for Whom The Bell Tolls, I will re-read it as I walk. Interestingly the phrase 'Did the earth move for you?' apparently comes from the novel.

Gronze asserts that Cervantes and Shakespeare were in Valladolid at the same period (1605), although without meeting each other. Perhaps?

I missed this comment, thanks for highlighting it.

There are some interesting things said about Shakespeare including that he was a Sufi and that his plays were designed to teach.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

"Al Loro" (To the parrot)

Rodaja, in El Licenciado Vidrieda, initially refuses to become a 'loro' (join the army) preferring to continue his studies but after he has recovered from his madness (believing he is made of glass) he does so - and dies in Flanders. I'm assuming Cervantes, who of course had been a soldier, is implying that soldiers are showy, plumed up and make a lot of noise.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

The Asociasion de Amigos de los Caminos de Santiago de Madrid has just posted an update of the 'Situacion de los albergues en el Camino de Madrid' (28 April 2024), which will be of great interest to any walkers about to set off.

Most probably due to my own incompetence I cannot read the document - too small and, when I blow it up, too blurred. Anyone computer savvy have any ideas as to what to do to read it? The document may be out of focus?

I have emailed the Asociasion and am hoping for a reply.

 

[timr]

The Asociasion de Amigos de los Caminos de Santiago de Madrid has just posted an update of the 'Situacion de los albergues en el Camino de Madrid' (28 April 2024), which will be of great interest to any walkers about to set off.

Most probably due to my own incompetence I cannot read the document - too small and, when I blow it up, too blurred. Anyone computer savvy have any ideas as to what to do to read it? The document may be out of focus?

I have emailed the Asociasion and am hoping for a reply.

It looks fine on my phone. I’ve screen grabbed. Is it any better for you? It’s a list of abierto - open and cerrado closed. It looks very useful, dated 27/4.

 

[OldHands]

The Asociasion de Amigos de los Caminos de Santiago de Madrid has just posted an update of the 'Situacion de los albergues en el Camino de Madrid' (28 April 2024), which will be of great interest to any walkers about to set off.

Most probably due to my own incompetence I cannot read the document - too small and, when I blow it up, too blurred. Anyone computer savvy have any ideas as to what to do to read it? The document may be out of focus?

I have emailed the Asociasion and am hoping for a reply.

Hello Bachibouzouk and Good Forum People,
Not your incompetence at all. They just messed up their own webpage.
Let me help you with this:

https://demadridalcamino.com/wp-content/uploads/Albergues-28-04-24.jpg

At your service!

 

[Bachibouzouk]

It looks fine on my phone. I’ve screen grabbed. Is it any better for you? It’s a list of abierto - open and cerrado closed. It looks very useful, dated 27/4.

View attachment 169099

Yes. Thanks, that has worked. Exactly what I needed: status and telephone numbers. Really must drag myself into the 21st century!

A great pity the albergue in Valsain is closed. I've had to dig deep into my pockets to get a bed in La Granja de San Ildefonso as it's a weekend and hotels want you to book two nights at premium prices! A note to the wise or for those on a tight budget: avoid weekends.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Hello Bachibouzouk and Good Forum People,
Not your incompetence at all. They just messed up their own webpage.
Let me help you with this:

https://demadridalcamino.com/wp-content/uploads/Albergues-28-04-24.jpg

At your service!

Hello OldHands - thanks but this link doesn't work for me ;-(

 

[OldHands]

Hello OldHands - thanks but this link doesn't work for me ;-(

Well I hope the file can be hosted here at least until they fix their webpage... in jpg and pdf
No Copyright Infringement Intended - source: https://demadridalcamino.com

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Thanks OldHands - that is the latest updated end of April 2024 version.

A quick look through shows at least 3 changes:
1) Mission Emmanuel in Tres Cantos: new albergue or re-brand with slightly increased capacity and new phone numbers?
2) Albergue in Mataelpino: open. New phone number and slightly increased capacity.
3) Albergue in Cuenca de Campos: open.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Madrid - Colmenar Viejo

OK, I'm up and running. About 23 kms from Tres Olivos metro station to Colmenar Viejo today.

I arrived in Madrid a couple of days ago. Dropped my bag off at the hotel and walked from the iglesia Santiago y San Juan (open 12:00-19:30) to the cemetery in Fuencarral (12.5 kms?) with just a daypack. I saw not one waymark along the way. In truth I wasn't really looking very hard and had designed an itinerary of my own for some of the way to take me past the latest (and my third) iteration of the Santiago Bernabeu stadium. It looks resplendent and unconquerable in its Guggenheim-like metallic armour.

It would be possible to take the metro one stop further (Montecarmelo) but as that stop is only just across the motorway and requires a change of train, hardly worth it.

There wasn't much in terms of waymarking this morning either until the tunnel under the M40, after which the waymarking was excellent. The section to Tres Cantos was rather uninspiring, always within earshot, often within sight of the motorway and the railway line, sometimes in between the two. After Tres Cantos it got much better as the motorway and railway line, as well as the speeding cyclists, got left behind somewhere. Bright yellow gorse, vivid purple thistle, scarlet poppies, those electric blue flowers,.... along the trail. As I entered Campomar Viejo I saw my first stork atop the church, then dozens more on the parasol pines in the small park after the church and Ayuntamiento. What a magnificent sight to arrive to.

Great views over the surrounding countryside from the futuristic concrete and rusted iron bull ring that crowns the town.

I always try to remember to look over my shoulder when I walk, particularly when I leave a village, town or city. Looking back today was something of an anticlimax. For a capital city Madrid has a rather unprepossessing skyline. I know it's in a dip but most of the way it just looked like urban sprawl and a half dozen skyscrapers - until Colmenar Viejo, when at last it comes, rather modestly, into it's own.

Edit: In Colmenar Viejo I stayed in Hostal El Gran Chiscon, which for 43.00 euros with breakfast was a pretty decent deal.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

@Bachibouzouk, I’m with you in spirit, recalling my camino at the same time last year. Enjoy every moment of your camino! Watch for the Great Bustards around Santervas de Campos

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I loved the Camino de Madrid and loved spending two nights in Segovia, the jewel where we started. Later on, the side trip to Valladolid was a nice side trip and we were glad we added it in. It was a very good suggestion offered by @peregrina2000.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

@Bachibouzouk, I’m with you in spirit, recalling my camino at the same time last year. Enjoy every moment of your camino! Watch for the Great Bustards around Santervas de Campos

I will on both accounts. Thanks.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I loved the Camino de Madrid and loved spending two nights in Segovia, the jewel where we started. Later on, the side trip to Valladolid was a nice side trip and we were glad we added it in. It was a very good suggestion offered by @peregrina2000.

Hoping to spend two nights in Segovia but won't be going into Valladolid. I was there quite recently and would recommend it to anyone who hasn't been. I'm short on time ;-)

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Slight digression here.

I hadn't been to San Lorenzo de El Escorial for probably more than 40 years. All I could remember really was the austere and cyclopic stonework of the monastery. I needed to refresh my memory. I'm glad I did. I've been to Madrid on numerous occasions since but there were always other things to investigate. I put aside half a day to revisit El Escorial but ended up spending most of the day there. I even wondered whether I had actually been there before at all! I have no idea whether there has been a recent refurbishment programme but I was almost literally blown away by the colours on the ceilings of the Battle Room and the Library. And at a period when paintings seemed to generally be so dark and austere! Couldn't help but think of Salvador Dali 450 years later.

I was incredibly lucky to visit on a day when hardly anybody else was. Two groups and a few individuals and couples. I had the place more or less to myself. Imagine visiting the Pantheon alone (well there was an attendant Googling on her mobile phone) in the presence of 11 kings and 1 queen. Some clearly imbeciles and sic transit gloria and all that. But the remains of Philip II and Charles I were right there. A royal audience of sorts. Philip and me. The Golden Age.

Interesting to realise that all kings of Spain since Charles I, bar two, are buried there. Fernando VI and Philip V, being the exceptions. And there is no space for anymore. Where will Juan Carlos and Philip VI go when their time comes?

And get this, there are two corpses in a 'pourrissoir' decomposing before joining their ancestors. They've been there for over 50 years as time slowly does its work!

Ferdinand VI, in case you are wondering, is buried at the Convent of the Salesas Reales in Madrid. A convent/school founded by his wife, Queen Barbara. An edifice much derided in its day as 'Barbara reina, barbara obra, barbara gusto, barbara gasto'. Enough to pique my curiosity and want to take a squint. Maybe it was a waste of money but it most certainly is not a barbarous work or in barbarous taste. More of a palace than a convent, it is now occupied by the Ministry of Justice.

And Philip V, as I am about to find out, is buried at San Ildefonso de la Granja. I have booked an audience with him too ;-)

I had planned to duck quickly into the Prado, on my return to Madrid, to put some faces (Habsburg chins and powdered Bourbon wigs) onto regnal numbers but I'd seen enough paintings for one day.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, @Bachibouzouk, I’ve been out walking and have missed this thread till now. Sounds like a great plan.

Walk from the church of Santiago to at least Plaza de Castilla (further if there is a convenient metro stop en-route?).

The town of Fuencarral has a metro stop. (not to be confused with the street Fuencarral in the center). It’s 3 stops beyond Plaza Castilla on Line 10. I have a very vague memory of walking past the metro stop there, but looking at wikiloc and comparing it to google maps, it doesn’t look like the route goes past the metro. But it can’t be too far!

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Colmenar Viejo - Cercedilla (33 kms?)

Today's walk was an excellent one with wonderful vistas and few distractions (no motorway, no railway line, and only a handful of mountain bikers). It's an easy enough 12 or so kms to Manzanares El Real - and what an approach: castillo and lake behind the dam. Like Tres Cantos, Manzanares El Real is just off the Camino but, unlike Tres Cantos, it really is worth the short detour, even if only to take a peak and a snap shot of the extravagantly decorated walls and crenellations of the Castillo de los Mendozas. It was a good first stop in a longish day, even if the beers were a wee bit pricey!

From Manzanares El Real to Mataelpino was about another 7 kms. So time for lunch. And I made another break for refreshments at Navacerrada (about another 7 kms further on). Both were lovely villages with nice bars/restaurants to sit out in the sun. In Navacerrada the architecture changes as the route gradually climbs - steeper roofs and black slate tiles. After Navacerrada you also hit the pine forests, which to me means obstructed views and less sun. I already started missing the meadow flowers, wild lavender, Holm oaks and the stunning gum rockroses, which seemed to stretch as far as the eye could see. Still, the pine forest smells nice.

The waymarking has been impeccable today. Impossible to get lost, although I almost did, missing a marker while staring up above me at a kettle of uncountable vultures. No word of a lie, there must have been more than forty of them. Ten minutes later they were all gone.

A sight just as amazing was a Tibetan Buddhist nun in Mataelpino. I would have liked to have known more but she was on her mobile phone. We waved at each other. Five minutes later I passed a meditation centre on the way out of the village. Ceci explique cela.

From Navacerrada to Cercedilla it was another 7-ish kilometres, which meant a longish day but with 3 nice, well spaced, pit-stops.

I am staying in Hostal La Maya. Pretty reasonably priced at 45.00 euros. I've come to realise that only as a default will I bunk down on judo mats in a Polideportivo. They were fun once. I believe there are a couple of Youth Hostels further down the road but Cercedilla is a very pleasant overnight stop.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

The town of Fuencarral has a metro stop. (not to be confused with the street Fuencarral in the center). It’s 3 stops beyond Plaza Castilla on Line 10. I have a very vague memory of walking past the metro stop there, but looking at wikiloc and comparing it to google maps, it doesn’t look like the route goes past the metro. But it can’t be too far!

Ola Pegrenina. Hope you had a great walk. Another Camino?

Tres Olivos is the metro station after Fuencarral and Montecarmelo the one after Tres Olivos. Montecarmelo is the nearest one to Fuencarral cemetery (the very outskirts of Madrid) but to get to Montecarmelo you need to change trains at Tres Olivos and the two metro stations are only separated by a motorway (there's a bridge across the motorway). From Tres Olivos it's only a 15 mins walk to the cemetery, straight ahead. You can even see it up ahead from the motorway bridge.

On reflection (and wiser from experience) unless you are a completist and have never been to Madrid before I would advise future peregrinos to jump on a train and start their Camino at Tres Cantos. Once past that big hospital (La Paz?) there isn't very much to see and it's pretty tedious walking. That said, I met a couple from Ireland yesterday, who told me they had seen a family of wild pigs scampering away from them somewhere before Tres Cantos.

 

[David Tallan]

I've come to realise that only as a default will I bunk down on judo mats in a Polideportivo. They were fun once. I believe there are a couple of Youth Hostels further down the road but Cercedilla is a very pleasant overnight stop.

I slept at the Polideportivo in Santa Espina on my detour to Urueña. It felt like a real old-time pilgrim experience. But it was on a proper mattress on the floor, rather than a judo mat.

I stayed at one of the youth hostels further down the road, but my day wasn't as long, having started in Manzanares el Real, at Ray and Rosa's little albergue.

 

[timr]

I stayed in the first of those Youth Hostels on the left (again after a night with Ray y Rosa) and got a very nice ensuite room! It is a bit beyond the town, but it takes a helpful bit off the next day's climb to the pass.
If memory serves me the polideportivo in Cercedilla is right at the very beginning of the town which would add on a few km the following day. it is a slightly strange, stretched out, linear town which kind of comes to a stop and then starts up again!

 

[Pelegrin]

Have worked my way through the Gronze itinerary. Google (?) translation very useful - and sometimes rather amusing. Some 'schoolboy howlers' that made me chuckle.

Place names: Three Songs (Tres Cantos), Snow (Nieva) and Crankshaft (Cigunuela).

Tres Cantos in this case means Three Stones A "canto rodado" is a rolling stone in the river.
Ciguñuela I think comes from "cigueñela" that is a bird similar to stork but smaller.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Cercedilla - La Granja de Ildefonso (26 kms plus!)

Again the waymarking couldn't be faulted - until the turn off for La Granja, which of course isn't on the Camino at all. I was keeping an eye out for La Cruz de la Gallega where the two routes separate but must have missed it. I ended up walking into La Granja along the road and adding some needless kilometres.

A certain sense of foreboding set in on the way out from Cercedilla. It was Saturday and there was a constant stream of cars on the road to Las Dehasas and all the car parks were filling up as I approached the start of the climb to Fuenfria. As it happens the crowds quickly fanned out and the families of walkers, walking groups and mountain bikers soon spread out within the national park and relatively few were actually on the Camino.

I enjoyed the steep climb up to the 1700m pass along the old Roman road but for some this will be quite a hurdle (the second highest point on any Camino apparently). Take it slowly and if you're on this Camino, the chances are, you're probably well prepared. The bark is worse than the bite and once over the pass it is a relatively gentle, if lenghty, stroll down along the Roman road, Philip II's newer road, through forests of pine, and then fields and meadows. The view back from Fuenfria and, later on, down over Segovia and the plain makes it all worthwhile. Fuenfria gets a mention in Cervantes' Rinconete y Cortadillo in his Exemplary Novels. Pedro del Rincon/Rinconete comes from Fuenfrida (sic) 'a place very well known, indeed renowned for the illustrious travellers who are constantly passing through it.' And many must have done so from Roman times onwards and particularly in Habsburg and early Bourbon times when the Court seemed to be constantly on the move. As you struggle up to the pass you can remind yourself that you will be able to add your name to that illustrious list of travellers!

(It is also in these hills of the Sierra de Guaderrama that the action of Hemingway's For Whom The Bell Tolls takes place. I'm re-reading the book as I walk. La Granja, Segovia, Santa Maria del Real (sic), Navacerrada, Colmenar (sic), Manzaneres El Real, .... are all name-checked).

I made it into La Granja with time enough to take the fountain tour in the grounds of the palace. Four of the many fountains are turned on on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 17:30 and at 12:00 on Sundays. They are grandiose and shouldn't be missed if you are lucky enough to be there on one of the appointed days. A few words of advice:
1) for the footsore and the leg-weary it entails more walking
2) you won't be on your own - not by a long way
3) bring a plastic bag for your camera and valuables and be prepared to get wet!

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I stayed in the first of those Youth Hostels on the left (again after a night with Ray y Rosa) and got a very nice ensuite room! It is a bit beyond the town, but it takes a helpful bit off the next day's climb to the pass.
If memory serves me the polideportivo in Cercedilla is right at the very beginning of the town which would add on a few km the following day. it is a slightly strange, stretched out, linear town which kind of comes to a stop and then starts up again!

My experience of Youth Hostels in Spain is mixed. Some of the more remote ones only seen to open for groups or will take you if they already have a group. I guess it's all about phoning ahead. Both those hostels looked pretty isolated but very impressive from the outside. Where possible I appreciate a bar and somewhere to eat (I like to travel light). Even with all the weekenders they both looked pretty dead.

 

[MikeJS]

On reflection (and wiser from experience) unless you are a completist and have never been to Madrid before I would advise future peregrinos to jump on a train and start their Camino at Tres Cantos. Once past that big hospital (La Paz?) there isn't very much to see and it's pretty tedious walking. That said, I met a couple from Ireland yesterday, who told me they had seen a family of wild pigs scampering away from them somewhere before Tres Cantos.

I am definitely a ‘completist’! On the day I arrived I walked to Iglesia Santiago y San Juan Bautista and a wait until 1800 for it to open. Turns out there is a Camino marker and map for the Camino in the square outside the church. After getting my credencial stamped at the church I had a short 10 km stroll to my first nights accommodation along the Camino at Hostal Royal Begona. Did this to break up the less than inspiring start. That said, I always think that if you are going to walk 100s of kms across a country there are bound to be some boring and less than inspiring bits!