Don't Hate Me... Itinerary review for Caceres to SDC

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok, so this next camino I used a new tool (to me at least) that allows easy calculations of the starting point, the intermediate stops, and the ultimate goal. It probably saved me about 4 hours of manual labor... but without any actual experience walking the VDLP, I have no idea if it is fool's gold. http://www.godesalco.com/plan/plata

So here goes, potential itinerary for my next trip. Now I know some of you may object to any itinerary at all. Someday I will walk like 5 caminos in one year, once I'm retired, with no itineraries, but sadly that is like 20 years from now. For now, I get about 3.5 weeks including travel from So. Cal, and that leaves me with about 22 days of walking.

Would any of the following be a disaster? Any gotchas? Would I miss something great?

De Cáceres a Santiago de Compostela por la Vía de la Plata
Se muestran fechas, etapas, distancias parciales y acumuladas, alojamientos, horas de salida y puesta del Sol, y porcentaje de iluminación lunar.
Resumen
Etapa más larga: Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria: 44,4 km
Etapa más corta: Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela: 20,9 km
Distancia total: 714 km.
Etapas: 22.
Media: 32,5 km por jornada.
Salida: viernes, 13 mayo 2016.
Llegada: viernes, 3 junio 2016.
Día Etapa Parcial (km) Dormir
1) Vi, 13-may-2016 Cáceres - Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) 33.9 P
2) Sa, 14-may-2016 Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) - Galisteo 39.8 P, H
3) Do, 15-may-2016 Galisteo - Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) 38.3 H
4) Lu, 16-may-2016 Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) - Baños de Montemayor 22.2 P, H
5) Ma, 17-may-2016 Baños de Montemayor - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 33.3 R, H
6) Mi, 18-may-2016 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra - San Pedro de Rozados 28.6 2P, H
7) Ju, 19-may-2016 San Pedro de Rozados - Salamanca 24.5 R, P, A, H
8) Vi, 20-may-2016 Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 37.6 2P
9) Sa, 21-may-2016 El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino - Zamora 32.6 R, A, H
10) Do, 22-may-2016 Zamora - Fontanillas de Castro 31.8 R
11) Lu, 23-may-2016 Fontanillas de Castro - Tábara 37.1 R, H
12) Ma, 24-may-2016 Tábara - Olleros de Tera 37.1 P
13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria 44.4 H
14) Ju, 26-may-2016 Palacios de Sanabria - Padornelo 37.2 H
15) Vi, 27-may-2016 Padornelo - La Gudiña 32.5 R, H
16) Sa, 28-may-2016 La Gudiña - Laza 35 R, H
17) Do, 29-may-2016 Laza - Xunqueira de Ambía 33.8 R, H
18) Lu, 30-may-2016 Xunqueira de Ambía - Orense 22.3 R, P, H
19) Ma, 31-may-2016 Orense - Oseira 31.8 R, H
20) Mi, 1-jun-2016 Oseira - Trasfontao 37.1 P
21) Ju, 2-jun-2016 Trasfontao - Ponte Ulla 22.2 P, H
22) Vi, 3-jun-2016 Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela 20.9 2R, 13P, C, H
Abreviaturas
R: albergue de peregrinos público, asociativo o religioso.
P: albergue de peregrinos privado o de gestión privada.
A: albergue juvenil.
H: hotel, hostal, casa rural, pensión.
C: cámping.
FR: fuera de la ruta.
Archivo generado por Godesalco.com para Damien el 23/9/2015 a las 4:07:53 GMT.
Última revisión de los datos: 16/9/2015 11:49:36 GMT.
Puedes aportar tus correcciones o sugerencias a través de http://www.godesalco.com/contacto.

 

[FelixBC]

How are you at very long days? 44.4km is not short for many people.

You definitely need an itinerary on this route. You can change it, of course, but there aren't hostels to just easily drop into.
I ran into problems of either doing a very long day (35+), or a very short one (<15km), with nothing in between.

The route is fairly flat until past Zamora, except for the pico de duena which wasn't bad at all, but then there are mountains. Watch out for the AVE detours, as they can add a few km.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Felix - an occasional long day is actually invigorating (having done 50+ on adrenaline in the past), as long as it is not everyday. Yah, the the short/long, not many in between spots makes this one more challenging from a planning standpoint.

Thanks for the support on the itinerary front. I always feel a little bit guilty doing it, but it's how I get from point A to point B in alloted time C.

 

[Donna Sch]

Ok, so this next camino I used a new tool (to me at least) that allows easy calculations of the starting point, the intermediate stops, and the ultimate goal. It probably saved me about 4 hours of manual labor... but without any actual experience walking the VDLP, I have no idea if it is fool's gold. http://www.godesalco.com/plan/plata

So here goes, potential itinerary for my next trip. Now I know some of you may object to any itinerary at all. Someday I will walk like 5 caminos in one year, once I'm retired, with no itineraries, but sadly that is like 20 years from now. For now, I get about 3.5 weeks including travel from So. Cal, and that leaves me with about 22 days of walking.

Would any of the following be a disaster? Any gotchas? Would I miss something great?

De Cáceres a Santiago de Compostela por la Vía de la Plata
Se muestran fechas, etapas, distancias parciales y acumuladas, alojamientos, horas de salida y puesta del Sol, y porcentaje de iluminación lunar.
Resumen
Etapa más larga: Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria: 44,4 km
Etapa más corta: Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela: 20,9 km
Distancia total: 714 km.
Etapas: 22.
Media: 32,5 km por jornada.
Salida: viernes, 13 mayo 2016.
Llegada: viernes, 3 junio 2016.
Día Etapa Parcial (km) Dormir
1) Vi, 13-may-2016 Cáceres - Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) 33.9 P

Just make sure that the albergue at the Embalse is open. That day can be a long walk as it is up and down hiking over hills for the Embalse part of it. AND you have to carry all of your supplies.
2) Sa, 14-may-2016 Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) - Galisteo 39.8 P, H
Galisteo is nice. Eat at the bar where the camino hits the main road. They are excellent. In my top 5 meals of the VDLP.
3) Do, 15-may-2016 Galisteo - Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) 38.3 H
4) Lu, 16-may-2016 Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) - Baños de Montemayor 22.2 P, H
5) Ma, 17-may-2016 Baños de Montemayor - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 33.3 R, H
6) Mi, 18-may-2016 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra - San Pedro de Rozados 28.6 2P, H
7) Ju, 19-may-2016 San Pedro de Rozados - Salamanca 24.5 R, P, A, H
Spend an extra day in Salamanca. Great place for a rest day.
8) Vi, 20-may-2016 Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 37.6 2P
The private family run pension will even do your washing for you!
9) Sa, 21-may-2016 El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino - Zamora 32.6 R, A, H
10) Do, 22-may-2016 Zamora - Fontanillas de Castro 31.8 R
We stopped in Montamarta where you can get a very good meal at Bar Rosemary. And from there went to Granja de Moreruela. Then to Tabara.
11) Lu, 23-may-2016 Fontanillas de Castro - Tábara 37.1 R, H
12) Ma, 24-may-2016 Tábara - Olleros de Tera 37.1 P
Stop in SantaMarta!!! It's a Hilton standard albergue and the Santiago statue is there. The Church tour is worth doing too.
13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria 44.4 H
I loved Rio Negro. Lovely albergue (get the top room if you can) and the best meal of the VDLP at Me Gusta Comer. But the day to Puebla de Sanabria was a long one even from Rio so aiming for 44 km may not be fun on this stretch. Make sure you check the elevation maps. You can find them on the Eroski website.
14) Ju, 26-may-2016 Palacios de Sanabria - Padornelo 37.2 H
15) Vi, 27-may-2016 Padornelo - La Gudiña 32.5 R, H
It's a long walk up the hill to Lubian especially on a hot day. The hill immediately after Lubian up to the border is probably most enjoyable if done first thing in the morning. It would be miserable at the end of the day when you have already been going uphill for several kilometres.
16) Sa, 28-may-2016 La Gudiña - Laza 35 R, H
17) Do, 29-may-2016 Laza - Xunqueira de Ambía 33.8 R, H
The hill up to Albergueria is a tough one. Rocky uphill that never seems to stop. So we stopped at Vilar de Barrio and the next day went through to Orense.
18) Lu, 30-may-2016 Xunqueira de Ambía - Orense 22.3 R, P, H
19) Ma, 31-may-2016 Orense - Oseira 31.8 R, H
The hills after Orense are quite friendly compared to the rest of the Sanabres. Great bread in Cea.
20) Mi, 1-jun-2016 Oseira - Trasfontao 37.1 P
21) Ju, 2-jun-2016 Trasfontao - Ponte Ulla 22.2 P, H
22) Vi, 3-jun-2016 Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela 20.9 2R, 13P, C, H
Abreviaturas
R: albergue de peregrinos público, asociativo o religioso.
P: albergue de peregrinos privado o de gestión privada.
A: albergue juvenil.
H: hotel, hostal, casa rural, pensión.
C: cámping.
FR: fuera de la ruta.
Archivo generado por Godesalco.com para Damien el 23/9/2015 a las 4:07:53 GMT.
Última revisión de los datos: 16/9/2015 11:49:36 GMT.
Puedes aportar tus correcciones o sugerencias a través de http://www.godesalco.com/contacto.

 

[C clearly]

I always feel a little bit guilty doing it.

I don't understand why you would feel guilty! Some planning seems responsible, especially for a less traveled route.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

C, I just feel guilty (only slightly) because its kind of an exercise of distance and destination at this point. Once I'm on the road and meet the peeps of the Camino the guilt fades away.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Hi Damien - all good but some v long days which you may find exhausting.
It looks like you have done the CF in segments. Have you considered starting in Sevilla and just walking as far as you get in the time available - to pick up next time…
If you leave in May it will be gorgeous in Andalucia. Flights to madrid easy and AVE train straight to Sevilla. Just a thought . . .

 

[LTfit]

I also used that site for the 2 times (actually 4, as split in two) I walked from Sevilla. The plata is not difficult so the km is IMHO doable only problem might be albergue openings. What time of year thinking of doing it?
Here are a few comments:

1) Vi, 13-may-2016 Cáceres - Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) 33.9 P the albergue is per latest info closed
2) Sa, 14-may-2016 Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) - Galisteo 39.8 P, H
3) Do, 15-may-2016 Galisteo - Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) 38.3 H
4) Lu, 16-may-2016 Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) - Baños de Montemayor 22.2 P, H
5) Ma, 17-may-2016 Baños de Montemayor - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 33.3 R, H
6) Mi, 18-may-2016 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra - San Pedro de Rozados 28.6 2P, H may want to think about going on to Morille (have done both ways). San Pedro is off the Camino and a hole in the wall IMHO
7) Ju, 19-may-2016 San Pedro de Rozados - Salamanca 24.5 R, P, A, H
8) Vi, 20-may-2016 Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 37.6 2P stay with F&M, lovely couple
9) Sa, 21-may-2016 El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino - Zamora 32.6 R, A, H
10) Do, 22-may-2016 Zamora - Fontanillas de Castro 31.8 R
11) Lu, 23-may-2016 Fontanillas de Castro - Tábara 37.1 R, H be sure to stay in municipal with José Almeida
12) Ma, 24-may-2016 Tábara - Olleros de Tera 37.1 P check if albergue open, owner was sick
13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria 44.4 H
14) Ju, 26-may-2016 Palacios de Sanabria - Padornelo 37.2 H as far as I know only hotel
15) Vi, 27-may-2016 Padornelo - La Gudiña 32.5 R, H
16) Sa, 28-may-2016 La Gudiña - Laza 35 R, H
17) Do, 29-may-2016 Laza - Xunqueira de Ambía 33.8 R, H
18) Lu, 30-may-2016 Xunqueira de Ambía - Orense 22.3 R, P, H
19) Ma, 31-may-2016 Orense - Oseira 31.8 R, H wonderful choice to go to the monestery
20) Mi, 1-jun-2016 Oseira - Trasfontao 37.1 P ?? never heard of this town
21) Ju, 2-jun-2016 Trasfontao - Ponte Ulla 22.2 P, H
22) Vi, 3-jun-2016 Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela 20.9 2R, 13P, C, H
Abreviaturas

Enjoy planning, the Plata/Sanabrés is great!

 

[FelixBC]

Thanks for the support on the itinerary front. I always feel a little bit guilty doing it, but it's how I get from point A to point B in alloted time C.

I wish people (including me) wouldn't apply judgement to the "right" way to do things. I had a rough time for some bits of my camino, took a bus to skip one part. Arrived in Santiago having walked 800km, and felt like I'd failed. The woman at the pilgrims office surveyed my credencials (Sevilla to Zamora, Astorga to Santiago) and said "congratulations, you did two caminos." That was heartening.

The albergue document hosted on this site for the vldp is excellent, I have to add. Indispensable.

 

[peregrina2000]

I think we've had enough threads over the years (and some very recently) to establish a general forum acceptance of the facts that some people plan, some do not, some people walk long days, some do not, some people take taxis, some do not, etc etc.

So, what I'd say to Damien is that your itinerary is ambitious but you're familiar with ambitious itineraries, having accomplished other caminos at a similar pace. LT's notes are the ones I would focus on the most, because though you might be fine with walking 44 km, you might not be so fine with walking 44 km and finding there is no place to stay.

I am assuming that arriving in Santiago is important to you, which is why you didn't take the approach Grace suggested -- start in Sevilla, walk your butt off, and stop in 22 days. Then come back next year to finish. But if it were me, and if I knew I'd be coming back next year and the next and the next after that, I wouldn't toss that option out totally. But of course, I'm not you. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Castilian]

20) Mi, 1-jun-2016 Oseira - Trasfontao 37.1 P ?? never heard of this town

With roughly 15 inhabitants, I don't think it can be really called a town. Anyway, it's roughly 2 kms away from (downtown) Silleda. Take a look at the web of the Albergue in Trasfontao (www.albergueturisticotrasfontao.es) to see the location (and size) of Trasfontao on a map. The place is mostly known for the Pazo de Trasfontao (take a look at www.turgalicia.es/ficha-recurso?cod_rec=9229&ctre=36 for more info about the pazo. If you read Galician, you can also take a look at http://gl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pazo_de_Trasfontao for some info).

P.S.: This Trasfontao is in the parroquia of Silleda and in the municipality of Silleda. Don't mix it with the Trasfontao in the Parroquia of (San Miguel de) Ponte that it's also on the municipality of Silleda.

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok, so this next camino I used a new tool (to me at least) that allows easy calculations of the starting point, the intermediate stops, and the ultimate goal. It probably saved me about 4 hours of manual labor... but without any actual experience walking the VDLP, I have no idea if it is fool's gold. http://www.godesalco.com/plan/plata

So here goes, potential itinerary for my next trip. Now I know some of you may object to any itinerary at all. Someday I will walk like 5 caminos in one year, once I'm retired, with no itineraries, but sadly that is like 20 years from now. For now, I get about 3.5 weeks including travel from So. Cal, and that leaves me with about 22 days of walking.

Would any of the following be a disaster? Any gotchas? Would I miss something great?

De Cáceres a Santiago de Compostela por la Vía de la Plata
Se muestran fechas, etapas, distancias parciales y acumuladas, alojamientos, horas de salida y puesta del Sol, y porcentaje de iluminación lunar.
Resumen
Etapa más larga: Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria: 44,4 km
Etapa más corta: Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela: 20,9 km
Distancia total: 714 km.
Etapas: 22.
Media: 32,5 km por jornada.
Salida: viernes, 13 mayo 2016.
Llegada: viernes, 3 junio 2016.
Día Etapa Parcial (km) Dormir
1) Vi, 13-may-2016 Cáceres - Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) 33.9 P
2) Sa, 14-may-2016 Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) - Galisteo 39.8 P, H
3) Do, 15-may-2016 Galisteo - Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) 38.3 H
4) Lu, 16-may-2016 Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) - Baños de Montemayor 22.2 P, H
5) Ma, 17-may-2016 Baños de Montemayor - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 33.3 R, H
6) Mi, 18-may-2016 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra - San Pedro de Rozados 28.6 2P, H
7) Ju, 19-may-2016 San Pedro de Rozados - Salamanca 24.5 R, P, A, H
8) Vi, 20-may-2016 Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 37.6 2P
9) Sa, 21-may-2016 El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino - Zamora 32.6 R, A, H
10) Do, 22-may-2016 Zamora - Fontanillas de Castro 31.8 R
11) Lu, 23-may-2016 Fontanillas de Castro - Tábara 37.1 R, H
12) Ma, 24-may-2016 Tábara - Olleros de Tera 37.1 P
13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria 44.4 H
14) Ju, 26-may-2016 Palacios de Sanabria - Padornelo 37.2 H
15) Vi, 27-may-2016 Padornelo - La Gudiña 32.5 R, H
16) Sa, 28-may-2016 La Gudiña - Laza 35 R, H
17) Do, 29-may-2016 Laza - Xunqueira de Ambía 33.8 R, H
18) Lu, 30-may-2016 Xunqueira de Ambía - Orense 22.3 R, P, H
19) Ma, 31-may-2016 Orense - Oseira 31.8 R, H
20) Mi, 1-jun-2016 Oseira - Trasfontao 37.1 P
21) Ju, 2-jun-2016 Trasfontao - Ponte Ulla 22.2 P, H
22) Vi, 3-jun-2016 Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela 20.9 2R, 13P, C, H
Abreviaturas
R: albergue de peregrinos público, asociativo o religioso.
P: albergue de peregrinos privado o de gestión privada.
A: albergue juvenil.
H: hotel, hostal, casa rural, pensión.
C: cámping.
FR: fuera de la ruta.
Archivo generado por Godesalco.com para Damien el 23/9/2015 a las 4:07:53 GMT.
Última revisión de los datos: 16/9/2015 11:49:36 GMT.
Puedes aportar tus correcciones o sugerencias a través de http://www.godesalco.com/contacto.

Actually, having thought about this a bit more, since it's clear that the Vdlp from Sevilla will not be a 6 week walk for you, Damien, one thing you may not have considered is starting in Malaga, Granada, or even Almeria, and then you will have two full 22 day walks to get to Santiago. Again, this is on the theory that you will be back again and again, and also on the theory that you don't care if you arrive in Santiago every year. Just something to consider. Laurie

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Wow Laurie, that would be a different angle on this thing entirely. I first looked at the map for vdlp and said, "what the heck is she talking about?", not seeing their names on any VDLP map.

Is there a camino name these spots are associated with? They are off the beaten path for sure.

About 45 minutes ago (before seeing this message) I pulled the trigger on tix from LAX to MAD round trip dep 5/11 and 6/5 respectively. This still gives me many options.

I have formed a habit of wanting to arrive in Santiago each time I walk. The one time I didn't was actually kind of depressing, as my new found friends continued on w/o me and I was shown their progress daily via social media. I like the comraderie of "making it" shared with the random peregrinos met at cafes in Santiago. I also like getting there with someone new (met along the way).

Your suggestion is intriguing for sure. The one time I didn't reach Santiago (in 2011) I chose that path because it was the path my mother took before meeting me in Leon in 2005, and I wanted to experience what she had seen but I had not.

This next year offers me the opportunity to experience 22 unwalked on stages (for me) on the VDLP (unknown stages which I now cherish, as sometimes knowing what is around every bend is not as exciting)

I will take everyone's advice and look at actual alburgue/hotel availability. You are damn right, walking many km's only to find no one home sucks. That happened to me on the Norte in La Arena/Pobena and was not pleasant (tho the extended walk was beautiful).

 

[FelixBC]

One town you might want to add to your itinerary, if you're interested in culture and history, is Hervás. It's just off the vldp before Baños de Montemayor. It's a lovely town up in the hills that has a well-preserved Jewish quarter. I jumped in a cab with some Dutch pilgrims in the middle of a day's walk to go see it, as culture was very important to me. The town was wonderful, had a great lunch, and then walked on to Baños on a well-marked, scenic, route back to the camino. Did the exact same km as not having taken the detour, and managed to avoid about 8km of dreary, unpleasant highway walking. With a visit to the thermal baths in Baños that evening, one of the best days on my walk. You could walk up to Hervás as well, no doubt.

 

[FelixBC]

For people who are ok with some motorized transport, I would recommend considering editing the via de la plata to cut out some of the nastier bits of highway walking. I found the longer stretches of highway shoulder walking soul-sucking -- not really exaggerating. There's too much of it, which I think is one of the major reasons this path has only a fraction of the numbers the camino Frances does, despite the landscape, history, and amazing cities it goes through. I was surprised by how many very fit people I met that were skipping bits. But I found out why.

 

[LTfit]

For people who are ok with some motorized transport, I would recommend considering editing the via de la plata to cut out some of the nastier bits of highway walking. I found the longer stretches of highway shoulder walking soul-sucking -- not really exaggerating. There's too much of it, which I think is one of the major reasons this path has only a fraction of the numbers the camino Frances does, despite the landscape, history, and amazing cities it goes through. I was surprised by how many very fit people I met that were skipping bits. But I found out why.

I couldn't disagree more, I found very little highway shoulder walking along the Plata - except for the first 16 km leaving Castilblanco to Almadén. There are other reasons that the Plata has less traffic than the Francés - the heat just to mention one - but let's keep it that way.

You might say that I am a "traditionalist" for lack of a more appropriate word. Skipping parts is just not in my vocabulary, all parts are there for a reason.

@Damien Reynolds look at the subsection on the Mozárabe for more information on the Jaén/Almería/Málaga/Granada option to Mérida. I wrote up information on the Granada - Mérida route which I did last fall. Lovely but lonely - I did not encounter one other pilgrim during 16 days.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

One town you might want to add to your itinerary, if you're interested in culture and history, is Hervás. It's just off the vldp before Baños de Montemayor. It's a lovely town up in the hills that has a well-preserved Jewish quarter. I jumped in a cab with some Dutch pilgrims in the middle of a day's walk to go see it, as culture was very important to me. The town was wonderful, had a great lunch, and then walked on to Baños on a well-marked, scenic, route back to the camino. Did the exact same km as not having taken the detour, and managed to avoid about 8km of dreary, unpleasant highway walking. With a visit to the thermal baths in Baños that evening, one of the best days on my walk. You could walk up to Hervás as well, no doubt.

Yes I walked to Hervas the first time I did the VDLP and thoroughly enjoyed it. Gorgeous wee town and lovely art gallery museum. There is a famous sculptor born in the town. In cherry season it was magical.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow Laurie, that would be a different angle on this thing entirely. I first looked at the map for vdlp and said, "what the heck is she talking about?", not seeing their names on any VDLP map.

Is there a camino name these spots are associated with? They are off the beaten path for sure.

About 45 minutes ago (before seeing this message) I pulled the trigger on tix from LAX to MAD round trip dep 5/11 and 6/5 respectively. This still gives me many options.

I have formed a habit of wanting to arrive in Santiago each time I walk. The one time I didn't was actually kind of depressing, as my new found friends continued on w/o me and I was shown their progress daily via social media. I like the comraderie of "making it" shared with the random peregrinos met at cafes in Santiago. I also like getting there with someone new (met along the way).

Your suggestion is intriguing for sure. The one time I didn't reach Santiago (in 2011) I chose that path because it was the path my mother took before meeting me in Leon in 2005, and I wanted to experience what she had seen but I had not.

This next year offers me the opportunity to experience 22 unwalked on stages (for me) on the VDLP (unknown stages which I now cherish, as sometimes knowing what is around every bend is not as exciting)

I will take everyone's advice and look at actual alburgue/hotel availability. You are damn right, walking many km's only to find no one home sucks. That happened to me on the Norte in La Arena/Pobena and was not pleasant (tho the extended walk was beautiful).

Hi, Damien,
Here is a Spanish language online guide that describes the routes and has a map. As LT says, it's the Camino Mozarabe, which connects with the Vdlp in Merida. http://www.caminomozarabedesantiago.es/documentos/guia-esp.pdf

Two great forum resources on this are LT's posts and magwood's blog (she walked from Malaga this year).

I understand why you like walking into Santiago each year. This year I started on the northeastern border of Spain and France, walked south and north and west till I got to Puente la Reina about four weeks later and then hopped on a train to Ponferrada to walk the Invierno into Santiago, because like you I wanted to stop walking in Santiago. So I get that urge completely. But at the same time I wouldn't want to have left Sevilla to Caceres out of my Vdlp. So for me, leaving little early sections unwalked is something to weigh against the psychic joys of walking into Santiago. Really tough choices, none of them bad, though. And just a heads up -- it may be obvious, but the mozarabe is one of those solitary caminos, so be forewarned if that's not your cup of tea. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[FelixBC]

I couldn't disagree more, I found very little highway shoulder walking along the Plata - except for the first 16 km leaving Castilblanco to Almadén. There are other reasons that the Plata has less traffic than the Francés - the heat just to mention one - but let's keep it that way.

You might say that I am a "traditionalist" for lack of a more appropriate word. Skipping parts is just not in my vocabulary, all parts are there for a reason.

@Damien Reynolds look at the subsection on the Mozárabe for more information on the Jaén/Almería/Málaga/Granada option to Mérida. I wrote up information on the Granada - Mérida route which I did last fall. Lovely but lonely - I did not encounter one other pilgrim during 16 days.

My advice was not for you, then.

 

[Castilian]

There is a famous sculptor born in the town.

Enrique Pérez Comendador: http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enrique_Perez_Comendador

 

[Damien Reynolds]

OK, refining my plan, and as is logical I am starting with the problem that on day 1 the alburgue I wanted to stay in is apparently closed. Reading other threads, I notice there may be an alternative spot to stay in near there, so that I don't have to walk 40+ day one or do a really short one to the other caceres (forget its name)... It appears that there is a fishing lodge. http://www.alcantarapescaevasion.com/ I would be there mid May.

Is this place along the Camino - or is it some crazy diversion? I don't mind (and sometimes prefer) paying for a hotel room on occasion.

Anybody who knows this place I'd appreciate your feedback.

 

[peregrina2000]

OK, refining my plan, and as is logical I am starting with the problem that on day 1 the alburgue I wanted to stay in is apparently closed. Reading other threads, I notice there may be an alternative spot to stay in near there, so that I don't have to walk 40+ day one or do a really short one to the other caceres (forget its name)... It appears that there is a fishing lodge. http://www.alcantarapescaevasion.com/ I would be there mid May.

Is this place along the Camino - or is it some crazy diversion? I don't mind (and sometimes prefer) paying for a hotel room on occasion.

Anybody who knows this place I'd appreciate your feedback.

Hi, Damien,
It's right on the Camino, actually it is between the camino and the other albergue, the albergue turistico that is closed. I was there when it was owned by an English guy who really didn't have a clue what he was doing -- he had brought it from a Dutch couple who couldn't make a go of it. So it looks like this place is open again (its previous name was Lindamar, I believe). I would just write to them with your dates and see what they say -- there is a contact button on the webpage. If they don't speak English and you don't speak Spanish let us know and there are lots of people who can help with this. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok Laurie and any others that can help, here is what I will write (5 years of Spanish in highschool and college, 7 caminos and I believe I may speak as well as an average 2 year old. Maybe.)

Hola. Voy a ir a Espana en Mayo de 2016 para caminar en el Via de la Plata. Soy de los Estados Unidos, y quiero dormir en su locacion si puedo. Voy a estar cerca de su ubicación en mayo 13. ¿Puedo hacer una reserva ?

Will that work?

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok Laurie and any others that can help, here is what I will write (5 years of Spanish in highschool and college, 7 caminos and I believe I may speak as well as an average 2 year old. Maybe.)

Hola. Voy a ir a Espana en Mayo de 2016 para caminar en el Via de la Plata. Soy de los Estados Unidos, y quiero dormir en su locacion si puedo. Voy a estar cerca de su ubicación en mayo 13. ¿Puedo hacer una reserva ?

Will that work?

That will work, but I would change both locacion and ubicacion to hostal (that's how they refer to themselves). And instead of "en mayo 13" write "el 13 de mayo"

And if you are asking to get a reservation, instead of saying you'll be close to their place I would just say:

Pienso llegar a su hostal el 13 de mayo. From their website, it looks like they will ask for a 50% deposit on Paypal. If they ask you to do that, I would make sure they will let you "cambiar el dia de llegada si no he calculado bien las etapas."

Buena suerte, Damien, Laurie

 

[FelixBC]

The hostal that's open is nearer the camino than the one that's closed. When I was there in April the couple who running it were French/Spanish speaking. They were very nice, and took a reservation over the phone.

 

[jjarnold]

For people who are ok with some motorized transport, I would recommend considering editing the via de la plata to cut out some of the nastier bits of highway walking. I found the longer stretches of highway shoulder walking soul-sucking -- not really exaggerating. There's too much of it, which I think is one of the major reasons this path has only a fraction of the numbers the camino Frances does, despite the landscape, history, and amazing cities it goes through. I was surprised by how many very fit people I met that were skipping bits. But I found out why.

Which parts were the "nastier bits of highway walking"? planning my camino for next year
thanks

 

[windswept]

I use a simple method. I always take the relevant CSJ book of hostels with me and around midday decide how far I want to walk in the afternoon and head for that hostel. Seems to enable work for the three Caminos I have walked. I should add that I am a miserable so and so and prefer to walk on my own so only have myself to think of. It took me 38 days to walk the VdlP this year and although I did some road walking I found it an exhilarating experience. Yes, there are some long dusty stretches but this is allows plenty of thinking time. My best decision, urged on me by others who responded to my blog, was to take the route to Ourense and the monetary of Osera. This was a hard but beautiful variation that was well worth the effort for the wild countryside, forgotten villages and sense of isolation from an ever turbulent world.
Before leaving home I knew roughly how long it would take and arranged my days accordingly.
I waked in April/May 2015 and there were no closed hostels and no problem with the HS train construction. When I did lose the trail by missing the arrows I simply walked north along the road until I found it again. I looked upon this as I minor punishment for not paying attention, something that has not changed since my school days 65 years ago.

If you would like a flavour of this walk my blog and video is at
www.dartmoorwalker.blogspot.co.uk

Scroll down for the first day, and remember.......the best laid plans of mice and men......

 

[LTfit]

You can also take along the Vía de la Plata/Sanabrés Walking and Accommodation Guide (pdf 12 pages) which I just updated.
Look under the Resourse section or here is the link: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-accommodation-guide-version-august-2015.408/

 

[Castilian]

en el Via de la Plata

La Vía de la Plata

su locacion

Su hostal would be better, IMHO.

Voy a estar cerca de su ubicación en mayo 13.

Espero estar cerca de su establecimiento el 13 de mayo. (I hope to be close to your stablishment on May 13th) might make more sense just in case you (had to) change plans along the route.

You might also consider this wording for the last part of your writing: Soy estadounidense, espero estar cerca de su hostal el 13 de mayo y quisiera dormir en su alojamiento si fuera posible. ¿Podrían reservarme una habitación individual? (I'm American, I hope to be close to your hostel on May 13th and I'd like to sleep on your accommodation if it was posible. Could you book me a single room?)

I don't know what sort of rooms they have so you may say just habitación (room) instead of habitación individual (single room) or, if it was an albergue type accommodation, you may ask for a litera (bunk).

P.S.: And as peregrina2000 said, don't forget to make sure you can change your booking date (without extra cost) just in case you (had to) change plans along your route. Post again if you need help with translation for that part of the request.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

They will understand you perfectly, wether or not you have picked the most precise words. Key words: reseva, the number and date of the month, that's all you need, with a por favor on top.

 

[FelixBC]

Which parts were the "nastier bits of highway walking"? planning my camino for next year
thanks

Heh. Good question. I'll have a look at my guide book and see if I can name the major ones. Off the top of my head: the walk to Embalse de Alcantara, before Baños de Montemayor, and especially leaving Salamanca.

 

[Castilian]

They will understand you perfectly, wether or not you have picked the most precise words

Key words: reseva, the number and date of the month, that's all you need, with a por favor on top.

Sure! But reading his post I thought he was interested not just in being understood but also in improving his Spanish so I decided to help him to improve it.

P.S.: There's a typo on your post: reserva.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Sure! But reading his post I thought he was interested not just in being understood but also in improving his Spanish so I decided to help him to improve it.

P.S.: There's a typo on your post: reserva.

Y eso tambien lo podrian entender. Oh dear, please say it isn't so. Or maybe do say so and everyone who makes a typo or doesn't use precise vocab should stay home and not walk the Caminos. Because all Damien asked is "will that work?", and work it will.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok, now, seriously don't hate me. I have gone through the itinerary and actually made all reservations necessary along the entire route (Except for the one you guys helped me with, they still haven't responded!)

KNOW THIS: I carry my own weight. I walk like a demon. I don't take transportation. But, I do get tired of alburgues once in a while and want to make it a vacation now and then. Also, I have never stayed at a Parador and let's face it, from a USA point of view, the cost is usually the equivalent of staying at a Marriot Express while on business in any major US city. I am going to try this out a few times. I don't know if I should have to make excuses for my extravagences, I just know that I get a bounce in my step when I know that I am not walking 40km to an alburgue but rather a private room with a bathtub and maybe other stuff.

Here goes:

De Cáceres a Santiago de Compostela por la Vía de la Plata
Día Etapa Parcial (km) Acumulada (km) Location to Stay
05/11/12 Travel to Caceres from HB, CA, USA Parador de Caceres, Calle Ancha, 6
1) Vi, 13-may-2016 Cáceres – Fishing Lodge (I hope) 33.9 33.9 Alcantara Pesca,Evasion GPS: N39.72929 W6.44983
2) Sa, 14-may-2016 Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) - Galisteo 39.8 73.7 Albergue Turístico de Galisteo, C. Viña de Egido
3) Do, 15-may-2016 Galisteo - Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) 38.3 112
Hotel Restaurante Jarilla, Autovía A66 KM 448,510728 JarillaEspaña
4) Lu, 16-may-2016 Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) - Baños de Montemayor 22.2 134.2 Albergue Vía de la Plata, Baños de Montemayor, C. Castañar, 40
5) Ma, 17-may-2016 Baños de Montemayor - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 33.3 167.5 Albergue parroquial Santa María, Fuenterroble de Salvatierra
6) Mi, 18-may-2016 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra - San Pedro de Rozados 28.6 196.1 VII Carreras, Salas Pombo, 10-12, 37183 San Pedro de Rozados, España
7) Ju, 19-may-2016 San Pedro de Rozados - Salamanca 24.5 220.6 Parador de Salamanca Teso de La Feria, 2
8) Vi, 20-may-2016 Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 37.6 258.2 Albergue F&M, El Cubo del Vino, C. García de la Serna, 4
9) Sa, 21-may-2016 El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino - Zamora 32.6 290.8 Parador de Zamora Plaza de Viriato 5 P
10) Do, 22-may-2016 Zamora - Fontanillas de Castro 31.8 322.6 Albergue de peregrinos La Casa del Peregrino
11) Lu, 23-may-2016 Fontanillas de Castro - Tábara 37.1 359.7 Albergue de peregrinos de Tábara, C. del Sotillo
12) Ma, 24-may-2016 Tábara - Olleros de Tera 37.1 396.8 Albergue La Trucha, Olleros de Tera
13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria 44.4 441.2 Habitaciones Casa Teresa, Palacios de Sanabria
14) Ju, 26-may-2016 Palacios de Sanabria - Padornelo 37.2 478.4 Hotel Padornelo, Padornelo
15) Vi, 27-may-2016 Padornelo - La Gudiña 32.5 510.9 Albergue de peregrinos de A Gudiña
16) Sa, 28-may-2016 La Gudiña - Laza 35 545.9 Albergue de peregrinos de Laza
17) Do, 29-may-2016 Laza - Xunqueira de Ambía 33.8 579.7 Albergue de peregrinos de Xunqueira de Ambía
18) Lu, 30-may-2016 Xunqueira de Ambía - Orense 22.3 602 Albergue de peregrinos de Ourense,
C. Emilia Pardo Bazán, 52
19) Ma, 31-may-2016 Orense - Oseira 31.8 633.8 Albergue de peregrinos del Monasterio de Oseira
20) Mi, 1-jun-2016 Oseira - Trasfontao 37.1 670.9 Albergue Turístico Trasfontao
21) Ju, 2-jun-2016 Trasfontao - Ponte Ulla 22.2 693.1 Pazo de Galegos, Ponte Ulla, 4 km pasado Ponte Ulla y a 900 m del camino,
22) Vi, 3-jun-2016 Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela 20.9 714 Parador de Santiago

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Damien, You'll get no criticism from me on your choice of lodging, whether it's sleeping in the doorway of a church or in a parador. And you've chosen a few very good ones. The thread count of the sheets and the thickness and absorbency of the towels seem other-worldly after a few weeks of albergues. Only problem is, you may not want to leave and start walking. The ones in Caceres and Zamora are two of my absolute favorites.

A few comments -- I think the albergue in BAnos de Montemayor may have closed, or maybe it's open again, but you will have no trouble finding a place to sleep in this spa town, and you may be drawn to the spa feature anyway!

The parador in Salamanca is a big modern building not in the old quarter. In fact it's on the other side of the river from the old town. I think it must be a comfortable hotel, but no charm and no ambience and bad location, IMO. There are lots of beautiful old buildings with 4**** and 5***** hotels in them close to and even in the Plaza Mayor which would be much lovelier IMO.

You aren't staying in Puebla de Sanabria (in between Olleros de Tera and Palacios de Sanabria) -- it's a prettified touristy town with a great private albergue and a lot of very nice hotels in old stone buildings. I would take the hike up to the old town and at least have a coffee there. (I think the Camino offers a detour around on the bottom but it would be a shame to not go up, IMO).

I have spent some time in Pazo de Galegos, but never slept there. The woman who showed me around told me the story -- two young advertising execs who left their jobs in their 30s (since, she told me, if you haven't made it big in advertising in your 30s, it won't happen). They got her parents to go along with a renovation of the family homestead and opened this hotel (thanks to many hundreds of thousands of European/Spanish money that was flowing into these projects back in the day). It is a beautifully renovated old stone home, part of a winery. Once you get to the church and fountain in Ponte Ulla, the albergue is straight ahead, but the Pazo is down the hill to the left. BEAUTIFUL, what a great way to prepare for your next morning's stroll into Santiago!

I think you have a future as a travel agent .... oh wait, there are no more travel agents. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok, based on various thoughts above, I have made the following updates...

Switched from Alburgue that might be closed to alternative location:
4) Lu, 16-may-2016 Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) - Baños de Montemayor 22.2 134.2 Emedos Hostel, calle don victoriano, 11

Cancelled the Parador in Salamanca and went this this place near the Plaza Mayor
7) Ju, 19-may-2016 San Pedro de Rozados - Salamanca 24.5 220.6 Catalonia Plaza Mayor Salamanca , Espoz y Mina, 23-25

Switched from Alburgue to inexpensive and simple yet highly rated hotel near the cathedral...
18) Lu, 30-may-2016 Xunqueira de Ambía - Orense 22.3 602 Hotel Irixo ,Hermanos VIllar, 15

I have also noted the diversion to Hervas and Morrile.

Thank you all again for all your help. Only thing is, if I have this much done 7 months before the trip, just how many times can I pack and unpack? Yikes!

Damien

 

[amancio]

wow, that is some planning! I would not see myself acting like that, but it is NOT MY camino, so I hope your efforts give you a great camino all the same!

And I find your first letter to the albergue in Alcántara is perfectly understandable in Spanish, very brave and good of you to trying to express yourself in Spanish, great!

Paradores are an absolute treat, absolutely!

And, finally, I would go to Morille instead of San Pedro de Rozados, it is a cool town, it has even a cemetery of modern art "works of art"!

and it is a very special town too!

 

[spursfan]

One additional small point - when viewing the plan all days of the week seem equal but this is not the case - from my experience on the Norte especially, you'll find fewer bars and shops open on Sundays - and there might be the occasional feast-day along the way as well

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok, I made another modification due to repeated suggestions from my friends here...

6) Mi, 18-may-2016 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra – Morille 29.4 196.9 Albergue de Morille

Now, it's a bummer but the biggest question mark about this itinerary revolves around my longest day.

Has anyone ever stayed in Palacios de Sanabria? Gronze.com indicates there is a spot there...

http://www.gronze.com/castilla-y-leon/zamora/palacios-sanabria/habitaciones-casa-teresa

It doesn't seem that I can make a reservation online for this place...

Any thoughts?

Damien

 

[peregrina2000]

Finally, I have remembered this place. I stayed there in 2010. The Camino descends from above to the town, through a very nice green meadow but watch out for mud. In town, there are a couple of bars, nice friendly people, I remember. Teresa's house is a few blocks away from the crossroads. She has put rooms in a building that used to be her butcher's shop. The rooms are upstairs from the former shop and are fine, but the meal she served us in 2010 was not. She lives next door to the house and seemed to be always at work in her garden surrounding the home. She is a very very nice woman.

Here´s what I wrote in my 2010 write-up: Palacios de Sanabria (28 km) -- you won't find an albergue listed here but there is a private home that offers rooms. They are very clean but not fancy. The evening meal was pretty bad, but she was such a nice woman we didn't really care. But be careful, the wine she serves is totally un-drinkable, and I am NOT a wine snob. We had bought a bottle in the little grocery store in town just because I had a hunch, and I'm very glad I did!

I was walking with someone who very much did not want to stay in albergues, so we had reserved, and I called ahead to do that.

Phone: 980-62-60-23

Damien I have a very cheap calling card and can call Spain for 3 cents a minute so if you PM me with details I will call and see if I can reserve a room for you. Laurie

p.s. now that I´ve remembered this town, a lot of memories came back and I remember walking through the old core, which is a few blocks away from the "main drag" and seeing a lavadero (outdoor washing sink) still being used by some of the women. One of the women still washing there was bemoaning the fact that most of her neighbors now have washing machines, because they have lost a hugely important social network and source of communication -- women hanging out at the lavadero. There are also some very beautiful old stone homes in that part of town being restored and were just magnificent.

 

[Castilian]

Y eso tambien lo podrian entender. Oh dear, please say it isn't so. Or maybe do say so and everyone who makes a typo or doesn't use precise vocab should stay home and not walk the Caminos. Because all Damien asked is "will that work?", and work it will.

I feel you didn't get the aim of my posts so I'll try to explain it. You focused on the will that work? part of Damien's post and, as I've already said, that's perfectly fine. OTOH, I focused on the part of his post that says:

I believe I may speak as well as an average 2 year old. Maybe

I understand that means he's not happy with his Spanish level and is interested in improving it (and I'm afraid it can't be improved without pointing out typos) what i think it's perfectly fine too. I might be wrong with my interpretation of his statement but I think it doesn't really matter because even if he wasn't interested in improving his Spanish, other readers might be interested in it.

Your posts and my posts aren't opposed or contradictories. They are complentaries and therefore I don't see rooom for an argument or for criticism. By providing what I think is one of the possible accurate wordings in Spanish, I provided an info that wasn't available yet on this thread and that was necessary to give readers the option of choosing freely among the options they have available to write to an accommodation to book a rooom in advance. If I hadn't made my replies, readers without good knowledge of Spanish would have just 2 options: to write in a language other than Spanish or to write in a Spanish good enough as to be understood but not as good as to seem written by a local. My reply adds a third option: to write in a Spanish as good as the Spanish that could use a local what is just another option but that in order to become an option has to be provided.

 

[Julie & Daniel]

"About 45 minutes ago (before seeing this message) I pulled the trigger on tix from LAX to MAD round trip dep 5/11 and 6/5 respectively. This still gives me many options."

Kudos to you on buying the tix! I am still floundering in the planning stages for my trip in December.

In 2013, I hiked from Salamanca to Santiago along VDLP in about 28 days with my then-12 yr old son. We deliberately hiked short days and enjoyed ourselves along the way. Something to consider if you're dead set on finishing in Santiago is to start further up than Caceres. We had no reservations anywhere along the way, and never had trouble finding accommodation since June was still off-season and not a lot of traffic on VDLP. That said, some of the hostels were small though I never saw anyone turned away - always a yoga mat on the floor or some other option.

 

[amancio]

Morille, you will not be sorry!

in fact, San PEdro de Rozados is sort of a detour, and the way the locals have defaced so many waymarks towards Morille so as to push you to go through San Pedro just made me want to go straight over to Morille. Still, I made San Pedro through to Morille and it is not a demanding stage at all. Still, do not know why, I fell in love with Morille as soon as I went into town and a bunch of children lead me to the albergue while jumping around me... when in other towns you ask about the albergue and people look at you as if you had just landed off a UFO.

maybe next time I go there i might be disappointed, but I just loved the place from minute 1! They did a reenactment of a peasants' rebellion in the 16th Century includig a dog pooing in the middle of the stage during the queen's speech.

 

[KinkyOne]

Hola, Damien!

This summer I walked Camino Sanabres from Zamora to Santiago (after Camino de Levante from Valencia) and these were the distances (in bold) measured by Endomondo tracker


10) Do, 22-may-2016 Zamora - Fontanillas de Castro 31.8 322.6 Albergue de peregrinos La Casa del Peregrino 35km (I didn't sleep there but heard albergue is very basic, only bar 400mts backwards on the main road, no tienda)
11) Lu, 23-may-2016 Fontanillas de Castro - Tábara 37.1 359.7 Albergue de peregrinos de Tábara, C. del Sotillo 39,5km (didn't sleep there either, very lively town with everything you might need)
12) Ma, 24-may-2016 Tábara - Olleros de Tera 37.1 396.8 Albergue La Trucha, Olleros de Tera 39,4km (stopped at La Trucha for a couple of beers, it looked nice but nothing special)
13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria 44.4 441.2 Habitaciones Casa Teresa, Palacios de Sanabria 49,8km (maybe I added 2km after Olleros because I went straight over the main road to Ermita ??? and ended walking through forest by the river and crossed the dam on Rio Tera from left to right in direction of walking towards Villar de Farfon. Later I realized that this must have been old route but it's still marked and you can't get lost. It's magical.)
14) Ju, 26-may-2016 Palacios de Sanabria - Padornelo 37.2 478.4 Hotel Padornelo, Padornelo 37,8km (you have a meson/shop in the village and 1km later by the petrol station there's a hotel)
15) Vi, 27-may-2016 Padornelo - La Gudiña 32.5 510.9 Albergue de peregrinos de A Gudiña 28,8km (not really sure about this distance, I have to check my GPS because there's some mess in my notes on that day, might be 36,8km , A Gudina albergue is somewhat notorious for having bedbugs!!!)
16) Sa, 28-may-2016 La Gudiña - Laza 35 545.9 Albergue de peregrinos de Laza 40km (very modern albergue, small tienda in the closest bar to the albergue)
17) Do, 29-may-2016 Laza - Xunqueira de Ambía 33.8 579.7 Albergue de peregrinos de Xunqueira de Ambía 38,2km (distance is from albergue to albergue, center of Xunqueira is 500mt further)
18) Lu, 30-may-2016 Xunqueira de Ambía - Orense 22.3 602 Albergue de peregrinos de Ourense,
C. Emilia Pardo Bazán, 52 27,1km (distance from albergue to Plaza Mayor)
19) Ma, 31-may-2016 Orense - Oseira 31.8 633.8 Albergue de peregrinos del Monasterio de Oseira 39,5km (from Albergue in Ourense to monastery in Oseira)
20) Mi, 1-jun-2016 Oseira - Trasfontao 37.1 670.9 Albergue Turístico Trasfontao 46km (distance to Silleda, that's maybe 1km more than to Trasfontao which is off the Camino to the left)
21) Ju, 2-jun-2016 Trasfontao - Ponte Ulla 22.2 693.1 Pazo de Galegos, Ponte Ulla, 4 km pasado Ponte Ulla y a 900 m del camino, 27,6km (distance from Silleda, Pazo de Galegos and Xunta Albergue aren't in Ponte Ulla, they are in Outeiro and so is my distance)
22) Vi, 3-jun-2016 Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela 20.9 714 Parador de Santiago 14,8km (discrepancy here is because of 4,5km between Ponte Ulla and Outeiro which you plan to walk previous day)

I will soon begin to post my day-by-day journal from this year Levante & Sanabres with description, photos and GPS tracks. Keep an eye on Sanabres threads of this forum. There are some tricks you might want to know about that will spare you some time and distance

Happy planning!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hola, Damien!

This summer I walked Camino Sanabres from Zamora to Santiago (after Camino de Levante from Valencia) and these were the distances (in bold) measured by Endomondo tracker


I will soon begin to post my day-by-day journal from this year Levante & Sanabres with description, photos and GPS tracks. Keep an eye on Sanabres threads of this forum. There are some tricks you might want to know about that will spare you some time and distance

Happy planning!

Damien, pay attention to Kinky's advice! I'm still trying to make contact with Teresa in Palacios, but Kinky may have it all figured out!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Kinky/Laurie - Ok, I am intrigued, but not so sure I understand the advice offered.

13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria 44.4 441.2 Habitaciones Casa Teresa, Palacios de Sanabria49,8km (maybe I added 2km after Olleros because I went straight over the main road to Ermita ??? and ended walking through forest by the river and crossed the dam on Rio Tera from left to right in direction of walking towards Villar de Farfon. Later I realized that this must have been old route but it's still marked and you can't get lost. It's magical.)

So a 50 km day is not out of the question, but where did Kinky sleep that night? If it is Palacios de Sanabria, I am afraid I am still mired in my current dilemma.

Laurie you have gone above and beyond and I heartedly appreciate and am excited by the help you have already given but please don't ever put yourself out on my account unless you enjoy it. If you like helping, bring it on!

Damien

 

[KinkyOne]

Kinky/Laurie - Ok, I am intrigued, but not so sure I understand the advice offered.

13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera - Palacios de Sanabria 44.4 441.2 Habitaciones Casa Teresa, Palacios de Sanabria49,8km (maybe I added 2km after Olleros because I went straight over the main road to Ermita ??? and ended walking through forest by the river and crossed the dam on Rio Tera from left to right in direction of walking towards Villar de Farfon. Later I realized that this must have been old route but it's still marked and you can't get lost. It's magical.)

So a 50 km day is not out of the question, but where did Kinky sleep that night? If it is Palacios de Sanabria, I am afraid I am still mired in my current dilemma.

Laurie you have gone above and beyond and I heartedly appreciate and am excited by the help you have already given but please don't ever put yourself out on my account unless you enjoy it. If you like helping, bring it on!

Damien

My stages were much shorter . At least in this part:
- Sta.Marta de Tera
- Rionegro del Puente
- Asturianos
- Puebla de Sanabria

Damien, I didn't advise you anything, just pointed out that distances in guidebooks/internet sources are usually shorter than those measured by GPS devices. You are planning quite long stages but they can be up to an hour or two longer

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Damien,
My advice about following Kinky's advice was just that you should keep watching for his much awaited report on his Camino Levante/Sanabres this year. His excuse for the delay is something lame like he has to work.

I have found a few more numbers for Teresa in Palacios from someone on the Spanish forum and am determined to figure this out and make contact with the elusive lady. The pilgrim who posted the numbers there said that the man in the bar in Rionegro just phoned ahead for him that afternoon and there was no problem. My sense is that Palacios is not a frequent stop for people on the Sanabres, so that approach would probably work for you as well, though I appreciate that you would prefer not to have the hassle. So I will keep at it for a while and hope to have someone answer the phone in the near future! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

A few more comments on your plans:


3) Do, 15-may-2016 Galisteo - Hostal Asturias (FR 2 km) 38.3 112
Hotel Restaurante Jarilla, Autovía A66 KM 448,510728 JarillaEspaña

There is a nicer off-route place to stay, in Oliva de Plasencia, which is either 30 from Galisteo or 35 or so if you take Isabelle's off route idea. Her map is in this thread: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/galisteo-arco-de-caparra.7625/

Oliva de Plasencia has an albergue turístico where I've stayed, but it seems to occasionally close. I'm not sure what the most recent situation is. But there is also a casa rural http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/vaa-caparra.es.html It wasn't open when I went through, or at least I didn't see it.

From what I hear the Hostal Asturias is a side of the highway place, so this option seems nicer. Then the next day, Oliva de Plasencia to Baños would be 32 or 33. I did that without any problem, so you surely wouldn't have a problem. The 9 km from Aldeanueva to Baños are alongside the highway, unless they've changed it. Nothing dangerous, but not pleasant. And it's a fairly constant ascent, not too much fun at the end of the day but very do-able. And plenty of places to eat, etc in Aldeanueva for a break.


10) Do, 22-may-2016 Zamora - Fontanillas de Castro 31.8 322.6 Albergue de peregrinos La Casa del Peregrino

The albergue is listed elsewhere as a "refugio" meaning it is likely to be quite basic. But others may have more recent information. I would go the 39 to Granja de Moreruela, where in addition to the albergue (which has a restaurant), there's also a casa rural (they rent it whole but will rent rooms if they are available, and I've stayed there, very nice) and apparently a hostal. http://mundicamino.com/ruta.cfm?p=H...in=Granja de Moreruela&xne=1&quees=Hospedajes


Still calling Teresa!

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, Damien,
My advice about following Kinky's advice was just that you should keep watching for his much awaited report on his Camino Levante/Sanabres this year. His excuse for the delay is something lame like he has to work.

You naughty naughty Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

I will probably also make a separate post on this, but I got through to Teresa in Palacios de Sanabria, NOT at the number listed on gronze, but at this number: 980 62 62 41. I got it from a Spanish peregrino.

Right now the señora doesn't know if she is going to continue offering beds to pilgrims next year because she says she is very tired of doing it. But she is also conflicted because she loves the pilgrims and knows that they rely on her. SO.... she told me to call her back next spring (March or April) and she would be able to tell me her plans for the season. So, for you Damien, I guess that leaves you kind of hanging.

 

[KinkyOne]

I will probably also make a separate post on this, but I got through to Teresa in Palacios de Sanabria, NOT at the number listed on gronze, but at this number: 980 62 62 41. I got it from a Spanish peregrino.

Right now the señora doesn't know if she is going to continue offering beds to pilgrims next year because she says she is very tired of doing it. But she is also conflicted because she loves the pilgrims and knows that they rely on her. SO.... she told me to call her back next spring (March or April) and she would be able to tell me her plans for the season. So, for you Damien, I guess that leaves you kind of hanging.

With intermediate stop somewhere before Palacios de Sanabria those 13kms to Puebla de Sanabria (and further on) won't be too much.

Anyway, I've learned especially on this year Levante that I should add 20-30% to stated distances in guidebooks. I believe it was the same on your Cami Catala @peregrina2000 if I remember correctly. That isn't such a problem when you add this to 20+kms stage, but when you plan to walk 40kms and in the end of the day you have to add 8kms (=1,5-2hrs) to those 40, well, that's just too much for me. Especially in the hills after Puebla de Sanabria. Completely out of my comfort zone. What a lazy bugger I am

 

[Castilian]

After reading so many questions and doubts about Palacios de Sanabria, I'm wondering why don't you just end that stage in Asturianos (roughly 3 kms before Palacios de Sanabria) where it seems there's this albergue: www.albergueasturianos.es

 

[peregrina2000]

After reading so many questions and doubts about Palacios de Sanabria, I'm wondering why don't you just end that stage in Asturianos (roughly 3 kms before Palacios de Sanabria) where it seems there's this albergue: www.albergueasturianos.es

Castilian, that's a pretty terrific idea. I reacted to it with a "duh-- why didn't I think of that?"

Asturianos has a couple of bars, though not always reliably open, as I remember. But the albergue, which is off by the polideportivo, was reported to be pretty nice. I never saw it though. This would be a very good Plan B, IMO.

 

[KinkyOne]

As I have already mentioned in post #47 I stayed in Asturianos in municipal albergue. It's at the high end of the village, some 300mts from the main road where tienda, two bars/restaurants and farmacia are but there's a bar with snacks opened until midnight at the polideportivo. Very nice surrounding for lingering around in the afternoon though.
OTOH for a walker like Damian even the additional stretch from Asturianos to Palacios (or even Puebla) de Sanabria wouldn't be too much I guess. I think he's pretty sure what he's capable of.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

I just have to say all of you are so awesome! So stoked to have knowledgable friends here to help me maximize my camino experience. I have learned through experience that sometimes an "off route" place to stay rather than a roadside hotel (truckstop) can really help to make the Camino special and unique. I am going to have to go back and read through these most recent 1 by one to make adjustments...

Thanks again for all the valuable insights. Now one thing that is bugging me is how could I miss an alburgue that is 3 km before Palacios? Seems like a no brainer... will investigate...

Damien

 

[Damien Reynolds]

OK, while watching the Cubs beating the Pirates (Major League Baseball) I came up with the following revisions.

Laurie, the Palacios worries are no more.

Changes since last time are in bold.

De Cáceres a Santiago de Compostela por la Vía de la Plata

Día Etapa Parcial (km) Acumulada (km) Location to Stay

05/11/12 Travel to Caceres from HB, CA, USA Parador de Caceres, Calle Ancha, 6
1) Vi, 13-may-2016 Cáceres – Fishing Lodge (I hope) 33.9 33.9 Alcantara Pesca,Evasion GPS: N39.72929 W6.44983
2) Sa, 14-may-2016 Embalse de Alcántara (FR 0,6 km) - Galisteo 39.8 73.7 Albergue Turístico de Galisteo, C. Viña de Egido
3) Do, 15-may-2016 Galisteo - Oliva de Plasencia 29.3 103 Hostel Via Caparra, Oliva de Plasencia
4) Lu, 16-may-2016 Oliva de Plasencia - Baños de Montemayor 36.8 139.8 Emedos Hostel, calle don victoriano, 11
5) Ma, 17-may-2016 Baños de Montemayor - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 33.3 173.1 Albergue parroquial Santa María, Fuenterroble de Salvatierra
6) Mi, 18-may-2016 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra – Morille 29.4 202.5 Albergue de Morille
7) Ju, 19-may-2016 Morille - Salamanca 20 222.5 Catalonia Plaza Mayor Salamanca , Espoz y Mina, 23-25
8) Vi, 20-may-2016 Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 37.6 260.1 Albergue F&M, El Cubo del Vino, C. García de la Serna, 4
9) Sa, 21-may-2016 El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino - Zamora 32.6 292.7 Parador de Zamora Plaza de Viriato 5 P
10) Do, 22-may-2016 Zamora - Granja de Moreruela 42.3 301.1 Albergue de peregrinos de Granja de Moreruela
11) Lu, 23-may-2016 Granja de Moreruela - Tábara 26.6 361.6 Albergue de peregrinos de Tábara, C. del Sotillo
12) Ma, 24-may-2016 Tábara - Olleros de Tera 37.1 398.7 Albergue La Trucha, Olleros de Tera
13) Mi, 25-may-2016 Olleros de Tera – Asturianos 40.3 439 Albergue de peregrinos de Asturianos, C. Castro Alto, s / n
14) Ju, 26-may-2016 Asturianos - Padornelo 40.8 479.8 Hotel Padornelo, Padornelo
15) Vi, 27-may-2016 Padornelo - La Gudiña 32.5 512.3 Albergue de peregrinos de A Gudiña
16) Sa, 28-may-2016 La Gudiña - Laza 35 547.3 Albergue de peregrinos de Laza
17) Do, 29-may-2016 Laza - Xunqueira de Ambía 33.8 581.1 Albergue de peregrinos de Xunqueira de Ambía
18) Lu, 30-may-2016 Xunqueira de Ambía - Orense 22.3 603.4 Hotel Irixo ,Hermanos VIllar, 15
19) Ma, 31-may-2016 Orense - Oseira 31.8 635.2 Albergue de peregrinos del Monasterio de Oseira
20) Mi, 1-jun-2016 Oseira - Trasfontao 37.1 672.3 Albergue Turístico Trasfontao
21) Ju, 2-jun-2016 Trasfontao - Ponte Ulla 22.2 694.5 Pazo de Galegos, Ponte Ulla, 4 km pasado Ponte Ulla y a 900 m del camino,
22) Vi, 3-jun-2016 Ponte Ulla - Santiago de Compostela 20.9 715.4 Parador de Santiago

Still open to suggestions... nice way to pass a ballgame. Those peski fishing lodge folks still haven't returned my email you all helped me with. Will send again.

Damien

 

[peregrina2000]

I just have to say all of you are so awesome! So stoked to have knowledgable friends here to help me maximize my camino experience. I have learned through experience that sometimes an "off route" place to stay rather than a roadside hotel (truckstop) can really help to make the Camino special and unique. I am going to have to go back and read through these most recent 1 by one to make adjustments...

Thanks again for all the valuable insights. Now one thing that is bugging me is how could I miss an alburgue that is 3 km before Palacios? Seems like a no brainer... will investigate...

Damien

Just as an FYI, more for anyone else looking for similar accommodations -- the Hostal Asturias is also off the Camino. The owner has a deal to come pick pilgrims up at the Arco de Caparra, with people then walking back to the Camino from there the next day, I believe. IMO Oliva de Plasencia makes for a nicer day.

If you are interested in the ruins themselves, doing the all off-road route on Isabelle's map allows you to get to the site during open hours so you can visit, and then walk to Oliva. Then the next morning, when you walk back on those very nice 4 kms to the Arch, you don't have to worry about timing it so you can visit the ruins.

 

[FelixBC]

Just as an FYI, more for anyone else looking for similar accommodations -- the Hostal Asturias is also off the Camino. The owner has a deal to come pick pilgrims up at the Arco de Caparra, with people then walking back to the Camino from there the next day, I believe. IMO Oliva de Plasencia makes for a nicer day.

If you are interested in the ruins themselves, doing the all off-road route on Isabelle's map allows you to get to the site during open hours so you can visit, and then walk to Oliva. Then the next morning, when you walk back on those very nice 4 kms to the Arch, you don't have to worry about timing it so you can visit the ruins.

The hotel Asturias really is a truck-stop, roadside hotel. Nothing near it to be interesting for an evening stroll. But decent room, jolly patio with lots of other pilgrims, and a chance to see some of Spain's non-camino life, with truckers and locals stopping in for a beer and a smoke. They do laundry too, all your clothes in one bag, wash, dry.

(that said, I'd stay at Oliva de Plasencia if I were to go again.)

 

[Anniesantiago]

I've heard the Albergue at the Embalse is closed. Any new info on that?

If it is closed, is there any sheltered place there a pilgrim could toss their bag and sleep safely?

 

[Donna Sch]

As I have already mentioned in post #47 I stayed in Asturianos in municipal albergue. It's at the high end of the village, some 300mts from the main road where tienda, two bars/restaurants and farmacia are but there's a bar with snacks opened until midnight at the polideportivo. Very nice surrounding for lingering around in the afternoon though.
OTOH for a walker like Damian even the additional stretch from Asturianos to Palacios (or even Puebla) de Sanabria wouldn't be too much I guess. I think he's pretty sure what he's capable of.

That day my friend and I walked from Rio Negro to Puebla de Sanabria. The aim was to get to Asturianos. But we were feeling reasonably fresh so we just kept going. Long day. Watch out for holiday weekends when all the bikers hit town. There was some big motorbike event at the nearby lakes and the albergues were full and it was hard finding a room.

I've heard the Albergue at the Embalse is closed. Any new info on that?

If it is closed, is there any sheltered place there a pilgrim could toss their bag and sleep safely?

The Embalse would be a perfect place to camp if you are that way inclined if the weather is good. Who needs a tent? If the weather is good you could use a poncho as a tarp with your sleeping bag...
Otherwise you are walking to Canaveral. Not a difficult walk but there were some spots with ambiguous marking.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

This is still an ambiguous day on my camino, as no response from the fish hut. I may walk far, I may camp out, nice to hear that option is available.

 

[peregrina2000]

This is still an ambiguous day on my camino, as no response from the fish hut. I may walk far, I may camp out, nice to hear that option is available.

Happy to call them if you give me the details.

 

[Donna Sch]

I've heard the Albergue at the Embalse is closed. Any new info on that?

If it is closed, is there any sheltered place there a pilgrim could toss their bag and sleep safely?

If you are going to ring them I would suggest not doing it in the morning. The lady of the house is probably cleaning up all the rooms and getting stuff ready. I know on the day we were walking there we rang about morning tea time and noone was answering. Yet it was open when we got there about mid afternoon.