Tartrazine
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2021
This post is for long distance walkers or hikers considering the Camine Frances. If you’re not in either of those categories then please bear in mind you’re not the intended audience.
You’re likely here because you are wondering which Camino you should be going for. I walked both the Camine Norte and Camino Frances this year and the short version of this post would be of the two to walk the Norte and avoid the Frances like the plague. I can't speak for the others though I intend to walk a couple of them.
From SJPDP the Frances is 480 odd miles long. About 100 of those miles break down as
50 odd miles of ‘great walking and glad I came’
50 odd miles ranging from ‘pleasant’ to ‘okay’ to ‘at least it’s not the Great Glen Way’. I’m including the Napoleon route in this 50 miles because it’s massively overrated for what it is.
The other 380 odd miles are absolutely dreadful. In conversation I’ve likened the experience a couple of times since to walking on a completely flat treadmill while watching paint dry.
But the walking itself is only part of the problem. Another is the crowds. I know it’s ironic to moan about crowds when you’re part of the crowd but the Frances is infested with pilgrims and just about none of them are actual walkers. You’ll spend your day passing people, because none of them walk at any great pace, and end up in bottlenecks or trying to negotiate around groups of walkers who spread themselves across the path. Within an hour or two each day you’ll get sick and tired of hearing ‘Buen Camino’ as you pass people. As they’re dawdling along they’re saying it a few times a day, but as you’re passing countless numbers of people it feels like you hear it non stop and they all look at you expecting the greeting to be returned. I got so sick of it I took to amusing myself by giving silly responses – ‘cuem Banoni’ ‘bob Banoonoo’ ‘cooby dooby’ – though I think they all just heard what they expected to hear so no harm done. Special mention for the ridiculous numbers of people you’ll see wielding walking poles but having absolutely no idea what they’re for or how to use them, not realising that the way they’re being used makes them no more than additional weight to be carry.
But, isn’t part of the Frances about connecting with people?
Maybe, but bear in mind unless you want to slow to a snails pace you won’t be around people long enough to have a conversation. Also these people walk short distances, so every night you’ll meet people you’ll likely never see again as by the next night you’ll be miles ahead of them. You’ll likely be glad as well given the irritations of dealing with people in Albergues who aren’t used to walking or living out of a pack. Top irritations include
The (oh god so many) novices whose packs pretty much explode across their beds and the surrounding areas as they unpack everything, never mind taking out only what they need and putting it back when no longer needed.
Leaving the floors between bunks strewn with their junk so getting up for a toilet break or an early start becomes an assault course .
Moaning about their aches and pains after a momentous 15 mile day
And my personal favourite, the ones who unpack and shower then go out for a meal and / or drinks before returning at 10 – 10.30 and decide that’s the time to start getting their stuff ready for the morning. Not before they go out, they’re too special for that. Extra points for the idiots who think it’s ok to turn all the lights on while they pack despite people sleeping or trying to sleep.
But, what about the spiritual aspect?
Do you mean the kumbya happy clappy I’ve come to find myself tree hugging hippy stuff? Look, if a change of scenery and a bit of physical exercise led to enlightenment us long distance walkers and hikers would be on a par with the Dalai Llama by now. I will cut these well meaning but muddle headed people a bit of slack here though. As non walkers unused to the activity, on a multi day walk away from their home environment, sleeping in communal bunk houses probably for the first time since childhood etc they are completely out of their comfort zone. That must be incredibly disorientating and I can sort of see why that leaves them open to, well, open to something. For us easy walking, a mattress and a hot shower every night and food and coffee stops available every half a mile is beyond the comfort zone and well into the sumptuous luxury zone.
The Norte has it’s boring stretches (although there are alternative routes on it) but is a fairly challenging (in stretches), solitary (for the most part) Camino with some wonderful views. Between the Norte and the tourist trail that is the Frances it’s a no brainer.
You’re likely here because you are wondering which Camino you should be going for. I walked both the Camine Norte and Camino Frances this year and the short version of this post would be of the two to walk the Norte and avoid the Frances like the plague. I can't speak for the others though I intend to walk a couple of them.
From SJPDP the Frances is 480 odd miles long. About 100 of those miles break down as
50 odd miles of ‘great walking and glad I came’
50 odd miles ranging from ‘pleasant’ to ‘okay’ to ‘at least it’s not the Great Glen Way’. I’m including the Napoleon route in this 50 miles because it’s massively overrated for what it is.
The other 380 odd miles are absolutely dreadful. In conversation I’ve likened the experience a couple of times since to walking on a completely flat treadmill while watching paint dry.
But the walking itself is only part of the problem. Another is the crowds. I know it’s ironic to moan about crowds when you’re part of the crowd but the Frances is infested with pilgrims and just about none of them are actual walkers. You’ll spend your day passing people, because none of them walk at any great pace, and end up in bottlenecks or trying to negotiate around groups of walkers who spread themselves across the path. Within an hour or two each day you’ll get sick and tired of hearing ‘Buen Camino’ as you pass people. As they’re dawdling along they’re saying it a few times a day, but as you’re passing countless numbers of people it feels like you hear it non stop and they all look at you expecting the greeting to be returned. I got so sick of it I took to amusing myself by giving silly responses – ‘cuem Banoni’ ‘bob Banoonoo’ ‘cooby dooby’ – though I think they all just heard what they expected to hear so no harm done. Special mention for the ridiculous numbers of people you’ll see wielding walking poles but having absolutely no idea what they’re for or how to use them, not realising that the way they’re being used makes them no more than additional weight to be carry.
But, isn’t part of the Frances about connecting with people?
Maybe, but bear in mind unless you want to slow to a snails pace you won’t be around people long enough to have a conversation. Also these people walk short distances, so every night you’ll meet people you’ll likely never see again as by the next night you’ll be miles ahead of them. You’ll likely be glad as well given the irritations of dealing with people in Albergues who aren’t used to walking or living out of a pack. Top irritations include
The (oh god so many) novices whose packs pretty much explode across their beds and the surrounding areas as they unpack everything, never mind taking out only what they need and putting it back when no longer needed.
Leaving the floors between bunks strewn with their junk so getting up for a toilet break or an early start becomes an assault course .
Moaning about their aches and pains after a momentous 15 mile day
And my personal favourite, the ones who unpack and shower then go out for a meal and / or drinks before returning at 10 – 10.30 and decide that’s the time to start getting their stuff ready for the morning. Not before they go out, they’re too special for that. Extra points for the idiots who think it’s ok to turn all the lights on while they pack despite people sleeping or trying to sleep.
But, what about the spiritual aspect?
Do you mean the kumbya happy clappy I’ve come to find myself tree hugging hippy stuff? Look, if a change of scenery and a bit of physical exercise led to enlightenment us long distance walkers and hikers would be on a par with the Dalai Llama by now. I will cut these well meaning but muddle headed people a bit of slack here though. As non walkers unused to the activity, on a multi day walk away from their home environment, sleeping in communal bunk houses probably for the first time since childhood etc they are completely out of their comfort zone. That must be incredibly disorientating and I can sort of see why that leaves them open to, well, open to something. For us easy walking, a mattress and a hot shower every night and food and coffee stops available every half a mile is beyond the comfort zone and well into the sumptuous luxury zone.
The Norte has it’s boring stretches (although there are alternative routes on it) but is a fairly challenging (in stretches), solitary (for the most part) Camino with some wonderful views. Between the Norte and the tourist trail that is the Frances it’s a no brainer.