Jill,
Walking in winter can be a great pleasure, but you must be PREPARED!
Be sure to check out what others and I have written in these earlier Forum threads re
winter camino expense and
walking in winter. Both threads are filled with practical advice and helpful tips from veteran walkers.
Sillydoll/Amawalker who is a Forum member has compiled encyclopedic information on
Winter Walking. Other good accounts of winter walking by Forum member Kialoa3 are
his 2010 and later blogs
In bad weather many steep descents on the camino would be treacherous and following smaller parallel roads might be necessary. Winter 2012/13 the Napoleon route from SJPdP to Roncesvalles was filled with several meters of snow and in effect closed to pilgrims thus necessitating the use of the Valcarlos alternate; read more here about this
hazardous situation
Other difficult stretches after storms might be from Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada or across the Montes de Oca from Villafranca as well as Monte Irago and, of course, O Cebreiro. In bad weather I have always walked on the verges of parallel roads.
Not all albergues will be open, but the welcome at those albergues which are is often most sincere. Most will usually be heated and/or have blankets. Generally the hospitaleros know who is open on the next stage.
When walking in late autumn/winter only in larger places such as Roncevalles, Logrono and Santo Domingo de la Calzada and, of course, Santiago have I ever seen a cluster of more than 20 pilgrims at one time. It is easy to walk alone and in smaller albergues you might be the only pilgrim.
Twice during winter caminos I have sat out true blizzards; in Villafranca Montes de Oca, February 25, 26, 2006 and Foncebadón, March 5,6, 2009. Even late November 2012 the climb up to O Cebreiro was packed with snow. You can see the snow and read my blog accounts of these three memorable storms
here. Luckily open albergues offered welcoming shelter, heat and companionship.
Whatever you choose enjoy your journey,
Buen camino,
Margaret Meredith