- Time of past OR future Camino
- started in 2012, hooked ever since.
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I will certainly report back Laurie.Oh, wow, I had no memory of these plans. Great news, lucky you. As my deputized scout,I am particularly interested in hearing if you manage to avoid the bridge described in this post.
Gronze clearly shows the longer loop around to avoid it, https://www.gronze.com/etapa/puebla-sanabria/lubian (After Requejo and before Padornelo) but the OP of this thread had a terrible time of it. So be careful and by all means take the longer alternative.
And looking at Gronze, I see that the lovely babbling brook walk through Aciberos is now totally off the camino. This was done to avoid the AVE works. I hope the alternative into Lubián is nice.
Buen camino, @laineylainey! Abrazos from Laurie
Nuala I am going to Belfast for 5 Fridays in October. A much loved Spanish teacher at Queen's is going 5 weekly lessons on my Achilles Spanish heel - el subjuntivo!Lucky you, @laineylainey! Wishing you a Buen Camino and looking forward to hearing all about it. Nuala x
Restaurante Rosemari!!!! Oh, how I loved that place. I think I remember that it was owned and run by two women, and I know I remember that it was one of a very few places where the salad was made with real leaf lettuce, not iceberg. Yes, you are right about how a plate of fresh simple food is so satisfying after all the walking. So glad you had a good day.First day Zamora to Montamarte. I was sad leaving Zamora as it looks as though the town is getting ready for a fiesta perhaps this weekend? We were in Zamora last year for it and it was wonderful as most Spanish fiestas are!
Also the storks are still in town with their magnificent nests on top of churches and even electricity pylons along the way.
Not much to say about the short walk today except that as with other parts of the VdlP it is flat , straight and with no shelter. The only town is Roales and although notes say there is a pub and we were looking forward to a café con leche, it was closed!
In Montamarte we are not in the Albergue because we were very hot and a bit needing a drink, so we stopped at the excellent Restaurant Rosemari and had a drink and a wonderful mixed salad and a big plate of freshly made chips, best food ever! I often notice on a Camino how easy it is to really appreciate a simple plate of food, when it is good! Rosemari said they now offer rooms which is interesting as it isn't listed in Gronze. However we are now opposite in Casa Molino which is very good. I even had a wonderful swim in the small pool outside. Mind you I did spend most of my time rescuing drowning bumblebees and ladybirds from the pool!
If you stay in Montamarta on a Tuesday, bear in mind the only restaurant open now, doesn't open on a Wednesday and the nearest town from Montamarta is 12k away, a bit of a hike for breakfast. So stock up from good local shop for breakfast for Albergue or stay in the other Casa rural el Tío Bartolo which I am told offers breakfast?
I am reminded today that the VdlP isn't sometimes the prettiest Camino, but the people well make up for that in their hospitality and friendliness ( in my opinion!)
Yes, plata is Spanish for silver, but:Yes I knowI believe Plata in Spanish means silver?
Not when I stayed there last year after discovering the albergue was closed.stay in the other Casa rural el Tío Bartolo which I am told offers breakfast?
Extremadura for a simple gal like me means lovely people and great tapas!Yes, plata is Spanish for silver, but:
"The term Vía de la Plata is commonly thought to derive from the modern Spanish word for silver, plata. The name actually derives from the Arabic word al-balat, which means cobbled paving and described the road as engineered by the Romans. "
It is a great and beautiful walk nonetheless. It is sometimes called "the Camino Duro" (Going through the district of Extremaduro (Extremely hard): The hard Camino. it can be.
It actually means "Very hard". Long distances, hot, lonely, but worth it. It is a fantastic Camino, but it needs more caution and preparation than f.ex. the Frances, which is basically a walk in the park.Yes, worrying reports about the Albergue and it is a bit out of the town. Sorry I can't report on what is happening exactly. The info about Tío Bartolo was from a local woman, but I have no proof to back that one up.
On a more positive note, I thoroughly recommend Restaurant Rosemari.
Extremadura for a simple gal like me means lovely people and great tapas!
Hi ElaineI am staying in Hotel de Robla which is okayand my amigo is in the municapal Albergue which is about another 1 km out of town but a bit special with a communal meal. ☹
Just walked the Requejo to Lubian stage today. Sitting outside Bar Restaurante Estrella to write this.Oh, wow, I had no memory of these plans. Great news, lucky you. As my deputized scout,I am particularly interested in hearing if you manage to avoid the bridge described in this post.
Gronze clearly shows the longer loop around to avoid it, https://www.gronze.com/etapa/puebla-sanabria/lubian (After Requejo and before Padornelo) but the OP of this thread had a terrible time of it. So be careful and by all means take the longer alternative.
And looking at Gronze, I see that the lovely babbling brook walk through Aciberos is now totally off the camino. This was done to avoid the AVE works. I hope the alternative into Lubián is nice.
Buen camino, @laineylainey! Abrazos from Laurie
Thank-you for this new information @Raggy! We are passing through in another month, and I am happy I don't have to worry about this section!Just walked the Requejo to Lubian stage today. Sitting outside Bar Restaurante Estrella to write this.
First five kilometres out of Requejo are on the Carretera before you turn left onto a Camino path that takes you under the curved bridges and along the old road.
The stage is mostly on asphalt surfaces, and often next to the fast road, but we didn’t need to go through the road tunnel described in the post above.
Camino arrows are few and far between. It‘s a shame that a few euros weren’t added to the budget for AVE construction to provide a few yellow arrows.
Lubian is delightful.
We are now just opposite the Albergue in the world famous "Me Gusta Comer" I have been looking forward to this ever since last year when I started thinking about the route from Zamora to Santiago. And now I write after the most wonderful 10€ peregrino 4 course meal (11€ PLUS coffee and liqueurs), simply the best meal I have had on any Camino since 2012. And I got a photo of the maestro himself.
Just to stay or pass through Rionegro without this eating experience is in my opinion a wasted life opportunity!
I am a very happy peregrina at this moment.
Oh yes, the route today was lovely in my opinion, including over and around a magnificent Embalse.
It looks lovely Elaine., but like you, I would be heading the extra 6k to get closer to ‘ me gusta comer ‘ for dinner in the evening..Sorry meant to post photo of the lovely little Albergue 6 km before Rionegro. Meant to say the mattresses she has on the 4 beds are very special and look/feel very comfortable. Even if you don't stay there at least pop in for a cuppa.
Annie, we have just had a message from a couple of Australians Jim and John who stayed at the little Albergue last night. They said the beds were so comfortable they slept in!It looks lovely Elaine., but like you, I would be heading the extra 6k to get closer to ‘ me gusta comer ‘ for dinner in the evening..
Buen camino
Annie
@Raggy , my friend now has blísters and I am now wondering about the walk to Lubian tomorrow and if it is advisable for him to walk it. What's your thoughts, is it difficult or just asphalt?Just walked the Requejo to Lubian stage today. Sitting outside Bar Restaurante Estrella to write this.
First five kilometres out of Requejo are on the Carretera before you turn left onto a Camino path that takes you under the curved bridges and along the old road.
The stage is mostly on asphalt surfaces, and often next to the fast road, but we didn’t need to go through the road tunnel described in the post above.
Camino arrows are few and far between. It‘s a shame that a few euros weren’t added to the budget for AVE construction to provide a few yellow arrows.
Lubian is delightful.
Oh, I remember Casa Irene, which was run by Irene herself when I was there. She was a very nice woman, very kind, widowed very young. She told me she had decided to stay in Lubián after her husband’s death and the Casa Rural was the best she could do. I was so sad when i saw several years later that the house was closed and she was on “baja médica.” I wonder if she is ok. But in any event, if you happen to see this before you leave, ask the new owners if they know about Irene. Thanks, Lainey!Forgot to mention a couple of things te accommodation. My friend tells me the Albergue is very fine and with mew showers. As for me I am holed up in the wonderful Casa Irene which has been owned for the past 2 years by a wonderful couple and completely refurbished and I would thoroughly recommend. Just had a cena of which included a gorgeous chocolate torte! I am lying down to write this !!!
Hi Laurie. I asked the new owners but apparently Irene died. But her paintings are still on the walls of the house. Just had a magnificent breakfast of omelette made with fresh hens eggs. Best Camino breakfast I have ever had. More than ready for the walk today over into Galicia!Oh, I remember Casa Irene, which was run by Irene herself when I was there. She was a very nice woman, very kind, widowed very young. She told me she had decided to stay in Lubián after her husband’s death and the Casa Rural was the best she could do. I was so sad when i saw several years later that the house was closed and she was on “baja médica.” I wonder if she is ok. But in any event, if you happen to see this before you leave, ask the new owners if they know about Irene. Thanks, Lainey!
Spend time if you can in zamora and Buen Camino xLainey, Lainey, so appreciating your up to date reports. We will begin in Zamora next Thursday. Buen Camino!
If you have the time to spare then you might like to try bathing in the hot springs when you reach Ourense. Great for easing the aches from the systemEven though I was really tired and my feet were so sore, I felt so refreshed after standing in the stream by the waterfall, Think there must be some magical going on there
Thank you @Bradypus , I have packed my swimming costume for Oursense and can't waitIf you have the time to spare then you might like to try bathing in the hot springs when you reach Ourense. Great for easing the aches from the system
Hi there, glad to hear about your upcoming vdlp walk, you will love it!Hi Elaine, I am following your daily updates and comments by others with great interest as I start from Granja de Moreruela on 9th October. I just wondered how you were getting on for water supplies? Are there many fuentes or are you having to shop for it when you can? Buen Camino!
Many thanks Elaine. Hope it cools down a bit for you without too much rain! BC, ColinHi
Hi there, glad to hear about your upcoming vdlp walk, you will love it!
As for fuentes no they are not very frequent and I always carry 2 bottles with me. I don't buy water though as I find the normal tap water in the Albergues or Casa Rurales very good. I will take a note to mention fuentes from now on. In fact there was one this morning leaving Vila de Barrio.
Buen Camino
Oh, no!!! You didn’t see the posts about the lovely river walk into Ourense. I am so sorry not to have brought this to your attention, @laineylaineyStarted off at 7am so too early for the breakfast recommendation of @Raggy unfortunately. However after about 3.5 k walked into a very welcoming cafe on the road for a welcome cuppa and tostada.
The walk to Ourense is flat but all road but having said that there are loads of little cafes and a couple of places to sample fresh pulpo!
Be careful though of camino into the outskirts of Ourense, there are some dodgy signs. After a long right hand Avenue that goes uphill look for a small garage on the right on top of the hill and cross the road to the left and then take a right. You will then follow the main road down to the first main town roundabout. It's a bit confusing. Then it is a long straight slog into town. Just before what looks like a bridge cross to the right down some steps and bear right past a lovely fuente, more steps straight up and the Albergue is on the left. The Cathedral is less than 5 mins away from the Albergue. I believe there us another Albergue?
Raining tonight. If you love pulpo this is a town to eat it! And the cathedral is massive . Tourist day tomorrow, train and thermal baths, bring it on!!
Thanks Laurie, so glad you mentioned this for others doing the walk to Ourense. The Seixablo suburb is lovely with the most gorgeous Church.Oh, no!!! You didn’t see the posts about the lovely river walk into Ourense. I am so sorry not to have brought this to your attention, @laineylainey
But for anyone else, there is a very nice alternative to the industrial slog into town. Details here:
I have walked out of Ourense two or three times, and like you I never saw the right hand route. I remember leaving very early and walking past the Ourense bus barn. As we walked by, a steady stream of buses was leaving, and nearly every driver gave us a big honk and a wave. It was a very nice send-off.The road to Cea is definitely a path of 2 different experiences. We ended up on the left hand route as described by @SioCamino probably because we didn't see the other route! Initially 5k out of town and then a fairly ( for me "very") steep uphill asphalt climb on a quite busy road. I think it would be easier if it wasn't so warm.
Then it became a different walk all together with some welcome shade through some forest walks and a few places to stop and have a cuppa.
In Cea tonight. When you see a bar on the left coming into town take a note that's the only place to have a meal at night. The Albergue is after that and is on the left as you follow signs into the town. I had a great lunch menu del dia in the Plaza Major. The casa rural Manoso is very good.
Thanks @SioCamino , I didn't know there was another alternative in Estación de Lalín where we are now staying with what feels like a crowd of other peregrinos from France Denmark and Spain. We are at the Taberna de Venta which is super but Ponte Restaurant seems a good alternative. Agree with you about splitting the days getting into San9 now. The weather is still very hot mid day and this part of Galacia has many hills, decente and asphalt, which my feet are starting after 14 days to complain about a bit!Hi, not sure how you are planned to break up your stages for the rest of the way to Santiago but I stayed in a few places I would recommend. As I had walked to Oseira last time I took the other route from Cea to Castro Dozón. I walked past that town to Estacion Lalín where I stayed in a Ponte Restaurante. I found the details from @SYates detailed notes on this forum. I got such a warm welcome. Room with laundry breakfast and bathroom was €15. Super - simple, old fashioned but spotless.
I didn’t want three days in a row of 28km+ so I stayed in Albergue Reina Lupa on my last night before Santiago. It leaves you around 10k to walk in which was lovely. Fabulous albergue new and comfortable, very luxurious for me as I was the only one there ! You can eat in the restaurant next door (same lovely owners). It’s between Lestedo/Boqueixón and A Susana only a very short way off the camino.
Buen camino and enjoy!
Sounds almost like a typical Irish Sunday dinner! I can recommend the Portico tour. I have my photos from 2006, when we arrived and did the thing of putting our hands in... but this tour is worth it. Thanks for your posts, really enjoying them. It does have to end though, and you do know that... safe endings, and return to ....Best breakfast ever in the great Taberna de Venta. All round one of the friendliest, best value places I have stayed on this trip and many others. Just a word of caution, I know I mentioned @SioCamino place Ponte Restaurant which I now realise is just over the road from Taberna de Venta but it looks shut. There were no lights on last night or this morning?
The walk today was okay but a early bit along a busy lorry packed road. No real climbs and some welcome shade this afternoon. Silleda is a big town and our very expensive snack and drink stop ( expensive compared to what we have been paying up to now!) was for me a bit of a reminder of how close we are to Santiago perhaps?
We are staying in Bandeira, 2 private hostels and a good albergue. Had a huge lunch of gammon, cabbage, potatoes and chickpeas!
Starting to feel a bit sad as we approach Santiago and I know this journey ends. I have never been a big Santiago fan but I am treating myself to a visit to the renovated Pórtico de la Gloria ( many thanks to @peregrina2000 for the suggestion).
Actually there is a wonderful similar Pórtico in the cathedral of Ourense.
@kirkie Yes it was a very good Irish lunch!Sounds almost like a typical Irish Sunday dinner! I can recommend the Portico tour. I have my photos from 2006, when we arrived and did the thing of putting our hands in... but this tour is worth it. Thanks for your posts, really enjoying them. It does have to end though, and you do know that... safe endings, and return to ....
Oooh, I want to hear all about the meal! I have often walked by on my way to cheaper and less highly touted places.Lovely short walk today to Lestedo about 4 k further on from Outeiro. About 5k out of Bandeira is a lovely looking private Albergue at Dornelas. I think they provide evening meals as there isn't anything else in the place.
Also thought the modern and big Albergue at Outeiro looked impressive.
Weather really changed but the walk was beautiful. My poor companion has suffered with blisters throughout the trip ( newish boots) and today has an infection on his foot so at Ponte Ulla he took a taxi to Santiago where I will see him tomorrow.
Thanks @NualaOC for recommending restaurant Casa Marcelo. We are going to have a farewell dinner there tomorrow evening!
Sorry you are finished! Safe and happy returns. Thanks for sharing all.Lovely short walk today to Lestedo about 4 k further on from Outeiro. About 5k out of Bandeira is a lovely looking private Albergue at Dornelas. I think they provide evening meals as there isn't anything else in the place.
Also thought the modern and big Albergue at Outeiro looked impressive.
Weather really changed but the walk was beautiful. My poor companion has suffered with blisters throughout the trip ( newish boots) and today has an infection on his foot so at Ponte Ulla he took a taxi to Santiago where I will see him tomorrow.
Thanks @NualaOC for recommending restaurant Casa Marcelo. We are going to have a farewell dinner there tomorrow evening!
Thanks Laurie, and now you have given me ideas about my next Camino, Catalán, Olvidado, Vasco...... so many choicesOooh, I want to hear all about the meal! I have often walked by on my way to cheaper and less highly touted places.
Can’t believe it is ending for you @laineylainey. Luckily for this armchair camino addict, we’ve got some members currently on the Catalán, the Olvidado, and soon C Clearly will be on the Vasco! Buen camino and abrazos from Laurie
Thanks @kirkieSorry you are finished! Safe and happy returns. Thanks for sharing all.
I had dinner at the Dornelas albergue - Two courses with wine. Served to all guests as a communal affair. I think they charged €10. First course was an apparently bottomless maccheroni with a lovely homemade ragu. I had at least three servings. Second course was tortilla / frittata with salad. I don’t recall that there was dessert. I might be forgetting something - We had been feasting on the home grown figs all afternoon.Oooh, I want to hear all about the meal! I have often walked by on my way to cheaper and less highly touted places.
I had hoped to stay there this past summer but we learned that the owners had gone back to Italy to get married.I had dinner at the Dornelas albergue - Two courses with wine. Served to all guests as a communal affair. I think they charged €10. First course was an apparently bottomless maccheroni with a lovely homemade ragu. I had at least three servings. Second course was tortilla / frittata with salad. I don’t recall that there was dessert. I might be forgetting something - We had been feasting on the home grown figs all afternoon.
Is this in the Invierno guide, @peregrina2000 ?I didn’t want three days in a row of 28km+ so I stayed in Albergue Reina Lupa on my last night before Santiago. It leaves you around 10k to walk in which was lovely. Fabulous albergue new and comfortable, very luxurious for me as I was the only one there ! You can eat in the restaurant next door (same lovely owners). It’s between Lestedo/Boqueixón and A Susana only a very short way off the camino.
It's a special albergue in a very quiet place. So much nicer than Bandeira.About 5k out of Bandeira is a lovely looking private Albergue at Dornelas.
Laurie, how long is the tour round Portico de Gloria? I ask because I have a 10.30am ticket and was wondering if I could then go to the Pilgrims mass at 12noon in the San Francisco church.Oooh, I want to hear all about the meal! I have often walked by on my way to cheaper and less highly touted places.
Can’t believe it is ending for you @laineylainey. Luckily for this armchair camino addict, we’ve got some members currently on the Catalán, the Olvidado, and soon C Clearly will be on the Vasco! Buen camino and abrazos from Laurie
Hi, laineylainey,Laurie, how long is the tour round Portico de Gloria? I ask because I have a 10.30am ticket and was wondering if I could then go to the Pilgrims mass at 12noon in the San Francisco church.
Thanks Laurie xHi, laineylainey,
The tour is about 45 minutes if I remember right, so you will have plenty of time. Congratulations on your camino! Abrazos from Laurie
Buen Camino @cwarnockCongratulations Elaine and thanks again for sharing your experiences. Pretty sure I'll be digging back into this thread for information once I'm underway in a couple of weeks!
We remember that part as one of the best and most awesome parts after Salamanca! Very fond memoriesWhat a difference a day makes! The walk yesterday from Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela was very hot, very straight, mainly close to N630 motorway and to be honest a bit boring and tedious. Stayed in Granja de Moreruela in Casa de tio Quico which was great because there was nowhere to get something to eat and we were able to get some supplies from the local shop.
Another thing to think about is a cuppa somewhere on the road from Montamarta. The only place is at Fontanillas de Castro 12.5 km after Montamarta (be sure to turn right when you come up towards the main road at Fontanillas to a petrol station, don't turn left on the Camino or you will miss your only cuppa until Granja de Moreruela).
Today we started off a bit earlier and once we turned left unto the Sanabres, I felt we had entered a different world - trees, landscape and then a wonderful but edgy walk up from the bridge at the river Elsa to a grand view point. Having said that I wouldn't have wanted to walk it in the rain or when it had been raining, as it was a bit narrow and steep at times! At 17km we stopped in Faramontanos and had a much welcomed café con leche.
Then the remaining 6km was again on a straight road but much more green and more interesting terrain than the previous 2 days. I am staying in Hotel de Robla which is okayand my amigo is in the municapal Albergue which is about another 1 km out of town but a bit special with a communal meal.
Tomorrow Santa de Marta, because the much recommended Albergue at Santa Croya is now closed ☹
Couldn’t agree more! Michelin starJust arrived at Rionegro and what a splendid municipal Albergue. Two large dormitories and a lovely large sitting area. It is the best Albergue I have ever stayed in, but then I don't often stay in Albergues. There is another lovely 4 bed private Albergue 6 kilometres before Rionegro where you can also just pop in for tea or coffee. Photo attached.
We are now just opposite the Albergue in the world famous "Me Gusta Comer" I have been looking forward to this ever since last year when I started thinking about the route from Zamora to Santiago. And now I write after the most wonderful 10€ peregrino 4 course meal (11€ PLUS coffee and liqueurs), simply the best meal I have had on any Camino since 2012. And I got a photo of the maestro himself.
Just to stay or pass through Rionegro without this eating experience is in my opinion a wasted life opportunity!
I am a very happy peregrina at this moment.
Oh yes, the route today was lovely in my opinion, including over and around a magnificent Embalse.
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