Ian Campbell
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Past: LePuy 2016
Future: Frances 2022
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I am sorry to read of your poor experience, Ian. All I can offer is: if at first you don't succeed, try, try, try again. From your family name, you may have roots in a tiny pocket of land where a fabled king did just that, having watched a spider...I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
Last year in SdC I took some photos of the cathedral on the Praza do Obradoiro; the guys in medieval clothes standing in front of it to pose for tourist money happened to be there and I couldn't avoid them.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I agree. The same is probably even more true for Rome. A treasure trove of history and architecture of course but also a frantic overpriced rapacious tourist trap! It is quite a shock to end a 2000km walk mostly spent in silence and solitude in the hustle and bustle outside St Peter's. We are deluding ourselves if we expect to find a perfect Oz at the end of the yellow paint road!It helps not to regard SdC as a "holy city", but as an ordinary Spanish (Galician) city with all its facets, gutter included.
Wow. But I think that you were "lucky" to see them and that their performance did not last long. As far as I know the city administration of Santiago does not allow "street artists" to perform in front of the Cathedral. Their only concession is to the pipers under an arch at one of the entries to the Praza do Obradoiro and even their business is regulated to some extent.When they noticed me, they shouted at me loudly and in the most vulgar language for taking the picture without paying. Welcome to SdC!
I think that they do, but also know that those licenses are very short and subject to renewal. I would imagine that if they keep up with the grumbling they won't be invited back.Wow. But I think that you were "lucky" to see them and that their performance did not last long. As far as I know the city administration of Santiago does not allow "street artists" to perform in front of the Cathedral. Their only concession is to the pipers under an arch at one of the entries to the Praza do Obradoiro and even their business is regulated to some extent.
I've seen those same guys. They are loud and abrasive. Don't let it put you off Santiago. I really enjoy the place. Shopping in the small shops and having all my Christmas gift needs taken care of in one short afternoon.Last year in SdC I took some photos of the cathedral on the Praza do Obradoiro; the guys in medieval clothes standing in front of it to pose for tourist money happened to be there and I couldn't avoid them.
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When they noticed me, they shouted at me loudly and in the most vulgar language for taking the picture without paying. Welcome to SdC!
After walking the Camino (for a month, in your case even 2 months), one has to get used to descending from the exalted state of a pilgrim into everyday life. It helps not to regard SdC as a "holy city", but as an ordinary Spanish (Galician) town with all its facets, gutter included.
By the way, I couldn't help but give the guys my long finger and to realize that I'm definitely no holier than they are.... and to chuckle at myself.
I never had that experience in Cusco. Sad that you did.I felt that way in Cusco, Peru before Machu Picchu. It was jarring to feel like a walking dollar sign and have hustler after hustler walk up to your outdoor café table trying to sell you something and not leaving until you rudely yelled "no" and then the next one would come try. I had one of them try to sell me things thru a picture window in a pizzeria! I think it's the contrast (for us) of coming off this lovely experience of contemplation and being thrust right into the commercial side of the destination, being charged tourist prices instead of local prices and losing the warmth of interaction we had before and now being looked at coldly with a calculator running in their heads.
Absolutely. Felt the same way arriving in Santiago, in Rome, Lourdes and especially Jerusalem …From another Scot (Robert Louis Stevenson) “It is better to travel hopefully, than to arrive”(…)
Yes, congratulations!Well done, by the way, for the sterling walk - kudos!
Me too!I spend a few days in SdC after each Camino. I love the place!
I never had that experience in Cusco. Sad that you did.
We agree 1000%. Santiago is all about the commercialization of the Camino. Our experience was so distressing we decided not to obtain the Compostela. My wife cried, but I told her the Camino is in your heart, in your soul. Not on a piece of paper.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I was in Cusco but I was with Peruvians and experienced the some of the same but I did not feel it was any different than other touristic towns. I thought the town of Aquas Calientes was worse. If you ever travel to Lourdes you will really hate it. It is completely made up of overpriced hotels, bad restaurants and cheap trinket shops. It is the polar opposite of the sacred grounds of Lourdes.I felt that way in Cusco, Peru before Machu Picchu. It was jarring to feel like a walking dollar sign and have hustler after hustler walk up to your outdoor café table trying to sell you something and not leaving until you rudely yelled "no" and then the next one would come try. I had one of them try to sell me things thru a picture window in a pizzeria! I think it's the contrast (for us) of coming off this lovely experience of contemplation and being thrust right into the commercial side of the destination, being charged tourist prices instead of local prices and losing the warmth of interaction we had before and now being looked at coldly with a calculator running in their heads.
Wow.Santiago is all about the commercialization of the Camino.
It's not Santiago's fault you had that reaction, without looking more deeply. You shot yourself in the foot out of pique. A pity. I feel sad for your wife. And you.Our experience was so distressing we decided not to obtain the Compostela. My wife cried, but I told her the Camino is in your heart, in your soul. Not on a piece of paper.
I think it's a matter of timing. My first time in Santiago I miscalculated how long it was going to take me to get there and so was there for 3 days. The day I arrived and the next day I saw dozens of pilgrims I recognised. On the last day everybody I saw was unknown and that's when I knew it was time to go home.I agree with you Ian. Somehow, maybe through the several Camino movies I’d hoped it to be a climactic moment, a celebration but it was more of a re-entry moment, a reality check. I didn’t see a single other person I had met along the way. Pilgrims don’t greet each other like we did on the Camino. Combined with pouring rain, staying alone in a hotel room and that the cathedral was closed due to renovation, the day felt like a negative. I’m presently again walking towards Santiago and wonder if any of the veteranos here have had albergue experiences in Santiago that might help put a better point on concluding the Camino?
After 4 Camino’s…I still love Santiago…the parks, museums, walking thru the city streets, mass in the cathedral…the energy and excitement of the pilgrims… sorry you didn’t see thatIan, Congratulations an completing such a long Camino.
Thank God for your health and strength to be able to walk so far. What a pity that your experience in Santiago was not a good one for you, but coming into most cities after weeks of walking can be a culture shock.
Of course there was a lot of traffic, but I am amazed at how well mannered drivers are, who always without exception give way to pedestrians at pedestrian crossings.
You were given your beautiful Compostela free of charge by the Cathedral.
Did you go on the tour of the roof of the cathedral or the Portico the Gloria or did your browse around the Cathedral museum or the museum of pilgrims? Did you think of the millions of other pilgrims who have walked on those narrow streets of granite over the past 1000 years. Did you stand in awe of the cathedral and wonder how on earth it was built with wooden scaffolding held together with rope. Did you look at the self carved statue of Master Matteo who was chief sculptor of the Portico and master mason , did you wonder how anyone could be so gifted as to be able to carve such beautiful Statues, did you smile back at the smiling face of the young prophet Daniel?
When you visited the tomb did you reflect on how James had taken his masters words " go to the end of the earth" so much to heart that he had come to the Iberian Peninsula which at that time was the end of the known world .
Maybe you will come again some time and spend some time in Santiago, which is so unusual in that the town grew up around the first little church and the city grew up around the Cathedral. In all other cities it is the other way around. It was the thousands of pilgrims in the middle ages walking to and from Santiago that gave Europeans the sense of being Europe.
Ian reflect on all the good experiences along the Camino and do not let a few thoughtless or bad mannered people spoil the whole experience for you
Although I have walked on to Finisterre Santiago is definitely the destination for me. But I think I understand what you mean. When I walked the Via Francigena reaching the Mediterranean turned out to be more personally significant for me than my final arrival in Rome. I think because as a teenager I was greatly impressed by John Hillaby's 'Journey Through Europe'.For me, I found that I got much more of a sense of completing something when I reached Finisterre than I did in Santiago.
Rome was a shock. Walked this year from Turin to Rome starting on Feb. 19 - not the season for Italian pilgrims. Arriving at St. Peter's after 35 solitary stages, I was not ready for the selfie-taking crowds at all the famous sites. Left the next day to continue walking south on the Via Appia.I agree. The same is probably even more true for Rome. A treasure trove of history and architecture of course but also a frantic overpriced rapacious tourist trap! It is quite a shock to end a 2000km walk mostly spent in silence and solitude in the hustle and bustle outside St Peter's. We are deluding ourselves if we expect to find a perfect Oz at the end of the yellow paint road!
So sorry you felt that way but for me after 18 caminos over years do not agree on my last ever Camino on Frances because it was very first. One.but every time I reach santiago I still get feeling of love and great achievement everybody trying make living vin these hard times at moment present god bless them all they do not force you to buy from them as I think you suggestedI just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I agree with you.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
@Kelly Ann what about my post makes you give it a “sad” emoji? Just curious as I see you’ve done so on other posts that have a positive note towards Santiago? Does our love for Santiago de Compostela make you sad?Santiago (old town) with it's shortcomings captured my heart in 2013 then again in 2016, 2019 and God willing 2022. It feels like home to me. Arrive with the spirit of the Camino and your heart will be glad, for the The Spirit is alive and well there and a little bit of magic too. Buen Camino!
I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I guess it is what it is. Cafe owners in Santiago have had little or no income for the past 2 years! Buy a coffee and pastry here in Sydney it'll cost more than €6.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
Wow @Kathar1na , I'm surprised to read your response and to learn the street artists are not allowed. I've seen these 'frozen statue' performers in the square on numerous camino. There was also once an old man with a scruffy dog wearing a pilgrim cape, hat, gourds...he wanted money to take a photograph of his dog. I was yelled at by a piper under the arch on my first camino for simply snapping a quick photo. I think the people who surround the cathedral in the old city who are vendors or performers in any way are no different than those in any other tourist city. They pedal tidbits and tales, but offer little else. I'm not sure where pilgrims get the expectation of kindness. We arrive after long long walks, but we are one of the masses and not special to those who survive in the old city.Wow. But I think that you were "lucky" to see them and that their performance did not last long. As far as I know the city administration of Santiago does not allow "street artists" to perform in front of the Cathedral. Their only concession is to the pipers under an arch at one of the entries to the Praza do Obradoiro and even their business is regulated to some extent.
It is nice visiting the convents,and churches,and have a drink in the parador.Oh goodness, I’m so sorry for your experience. I think it’s all about your expectations. As a student of history, I think of pilgrimage as the earliest form of international tourism and Santiago as one of the first great tourist destinations. As someone else wrote, even in its earliest days, there would have been crowds of vendors hawking holy souvenirs to the crowds. Being just one in the crowd, surrounded by cafes, shops and stalls, made me feel like I was experiencing Santiago in the same way as the early pilgrims. I also went to two Pilgrim masses (even though I’m not Catholic) and visited some of the other churches in town as well as the Monastario de San Martiño Pinario. None of these other churches were particularly crowded. It was a nice break from the crowds. I also went and had a drink in the Parador lobby, and bought a few souvenirs. Touristy stuff. I enjoyed the energy, but I was prepared for it. I hope you have a better experience next time!
I found Cusco the same. i went to the railway station to purchase a ticket to Machu Picchu and they said it would be US$100. I caught a bus to the next station and it was $3.I felt that way in Cusco, Peru before Machu Picchu. It was jarring to feel like a walking dollar sign and have hustler after hustler walk up to your outdoor café table trying to sell you something and not leaving until you rudely yelled "no" and then the next one would come try. I had one of them try to sell me things thru a picture window in a pizzeria! I think it's the contrast (for us) of coming off this lovely experience of contemplation and being thrust right into the commercial side of the destination, being charged tourist prices instead of local prices and losing the warmth of interaction we had before and now being looked at coldly with a calculator running in their heads.
I agree with you Ian. Somehow, maybe through the several Camino movies I’d hoped it to be a climactic moment, a celebration but it was more of a re-entry moment, a reality check. I didn’t see a single other person I had met along the way. Pilgrims don’t greet each other like we did on the Camino. Combined with pouring rain, staying alone in a hotel room and that the cathedral was closed due to renovation, the day felt like a negative. I’m presently again walking towards Santiago and wonder if any of the veteranos here have had albergue experiences in Santiago that might help
That's where last time we experienced a minor miracle.For me the spiritual climax was not Santiago but the cruz de ferro. So much so that on my next 25-day Camino I believe I can make it. Commercialization, crowds, etc. It just didn't move me the way the ritual of the iron cross did. Ultreia to each his own Camino.
I think you can have different experiences on different days. The first time I walked into Santiago it was hot, but magic, the piper, the other pilgrims. Exploring around, watching other pilgrims walk in, buying some Camino souvenirs to take home. Buying an entire tarte de Santiago and eating it between us with icecream and laughing because of the brain freeze. Went to the Cathedral which was jam packed and loved the spectacle.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I know what you mean, I felt that sometimes too and it was a shock. But on reflection most of our time in Santiago was good and rewarding.I just finished my camino ... This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me.
I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
You have been blessed, @mspath. You continue to share your blessings. That is what blessings are for! Sharing. Let them go. They have work to do...All of us who walk into Santiago de Compostela whatever our reasons or beliefs share similar quickened emotions upon our arrival. The weight of history is so great with the accumulated layers of centuries, both visible and invisible. One can see much and also feel or imagine even more such as hordes of past pilgrims following the same timeless route towards the cathedral throughout the ages.
Overwhelmed, my emotions were always a complex mix of euphoria and sadness; I felt weary but thrilled and sincerely thankful to have made it!!
Arriving at the simple northeast corner of the cathedral near the plaza Azabacheria I would put my hand on the ancient stone and weeping offer silent thanks for all that has been which enabled my camino...I then would enter and sit quietly pondering within the great silent nave.
The area of Santiago around the Cathedral is very much a tourist trap...be prepared to pay a lot for very little. Last time we were there in 2018 we stayed away from the cathedral area, found a place about a km away in a commercial residential area...few tourists, mostly locals. Prices were good, people friendly, and felt much more authentic than the frenzied pace of crowded tourist haunts.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I'm sorry you had that experience of Santiago! My partner and I have been to Santiago 7 times (including stops on our way home after going to Fisterra), and it's absolutely one of our favorite places. That said, last year it was a quite different from 2017 and 2019 both because of the crowds of non-pilgrims due to the Holy Year and the tenseness many carried due to COVID. Perhaps that has carried over a bit to this year as well?I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
It may be new or it may not be strictly enforced. It may be recent, perhaps only since 2021. Quote: Las plazas del Obradoiro, A Quintana, Platerías y O Toural no albergarán las actividades de los artistas callejeros de la ciudad. Así lo establece la nueva normativa que regula este aspecto.I'm surprised to read your response and to learn the street artists are not allowed.
I noticed last April that all those streetartists had disappeared but there were lots of beggars begging for money.It may be new or it may not be strictly enforced. It may be recent, perhaps only since 2021. Quote: Las plazas del Obradoiro, A Quintana, Platerías y O Toural no albergarán las actividades de los artistas callejeros de la ciudad. Así lo establece la nueva normativa que regula este aspecto.
wonder if any of the veteranos here have had albergue experiences in Santiago that might help put a better point on concluding the Camino?
Arrive with the spirit of the Camino and your heart will be glad, for The Spirit is alive and well in Santiago and a little bit of magic too.
we were so blessed to be able to experience Santiago through her eyes. Sometimes with time and reflection we can see things in a different light.
Not the devote atmosphere you hope for once you arrive .
But on the other hand people who live and work there have a living .
Cafe owners in Santiago have had little or no income for the past 2 years! Buy a coffee and pastry here in Sydney it'll cost more than €6.
All of us who walk into Santiago de Compostela whatever our reasons or beliefs share similar quickened emotions upon our arrival. The weight of history is so great with the accumulated layers of centuries, both visible and invisible. One can see much and also feel or imagine even more such as hordes of past pilgrims following the same timeless route towards the cathedral throughout the ages
Overwhelmed, my emotions were always a complex mix of euphoria and sadness; I felt weary but thrilled and sincerely thankful to have made it!!
Thank you for sharing your recent observation (of the area around the Cathedral I presume).I noticed last April that all those street artists had disappeared but there were lots of beggars begging for money.
I have been 2 weeks in Santiago and noticed this everywhere in the medieval towncenter ,not only around the Cathedral.Thank you for sharing your recent observation (of the area around the Cathedral I presume).
Both silent and aggressive begging in major European towns are a topic that often gives cause for discussion.
Coming back to the first post, I see that the poster merely shared his experience and feelings after having been in Santiago, Madrid, Sevilla and Granada. I have not properly visited the latter three Spanish cities for ages and I could not say what they are like "hassle wise"these days. Are they much different from Santiago de Compostela in this respect?
For what it is worth, I felt that Burgos, Leon and Santiago are modern towns with an amazing patrimony; I felt this both before and after my walk to and through them. I did not regard them or Santiago in particular as a "holy city", but as an ordinary Spanish (Galician) town with all its facets, as someone so aptly put it.
BTW, just my own impression of what I found noticeable: this huge open and empty space in front of the Cathedral of Santiago and the 'grandiosity' that is created by the surrounding buildings. I am more used to seeing medieval Romanesque or Gothic cathedrals bang in the middle of commerce and surrounded on all sides by busy citizens in their daily lives with all the facets of city life.
Hi IanI just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I am so sorry to hear this Ian. I have just returned from walking on the Camino. I walked from Santiago to Muxia so spent a few days in Santiago first, I had missed it so much. Then I returned to Santiago to find it busier but I had such joy from introducing a friend to it and after walking the Camino Ingles, I spent another two days. At no time did I experience any of what you experienced. I met up with fellow pilgrims from the path, I explored museums and parks that I had not been to before, I went to new eating places and enjoyed the kindness, smiles and hospitality I have enjoyed on all parts of the Camino. I didn't want to leave. We have both had very different experiences and I am sad that yours wasn't a good one. Perhaps at some point you will give it another chance.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
Santiago's a city, and things ARE more expensive here. And in some Places more noisy and aggressive, too. No doubt about that. But it still is Santiago and maybe the most magnificent cityin the World. Gabriel Marcia Marquez said, in the rain it was the most beautiful city in the World.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
Why would you do that??We have been recommending pilgrims make Sarria the conclusion of the Camino Frances
Some people give their country of origin a bad name by their behavior and then you get this kind of situation that you have experienced. I was also yelled at as a volunteer and that is certainly not pleasant to say the least. And when it comes to Santiago as a city, it is no different from other cities in other countries.This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
We have been recommending pilgrims make Sarria the conclusion of the Camino Frances
Less than 2 weeks ago in this post, you didn't even know if the cathedral was open. Now you are making recommendations to prospective pilgrims that they not complete their pilgrimage to Santiago? It seems like a rash judgement to me!Our experience was so distressing we decided not to obtain the compostela.
We have been recommending pilgrims make Sarria the conclusion of the Camino Frances
I'm going to be polite here, so much is said about the 100km as being not like the Camino previous to it and so not of value. I don't feel that way and it just as special to me as any other part of it, something I read recently and I can't pinpoint in my mind where, but to give the outline of what was said " the last 100km is your way to holding onto what you have experienced on the Camino, so instead of looking at it as this noisy busy part of it which has no relevance, you can see it as your equivalent back in your normal life, where you suddenly have to experience a lot less tranquil situations, so if you cant hold on to tranquility in the last 100 you're not going to do it at home, so see those last km as way of preparing you for your home life ".. personally I don't need this attitude, because I look forward to the last 100, but if I hand learnt to do this then I would use this attitude. As to telling people to stop Sarria.......I really hope they ignored you!We have been recommending pilgrims make Sarria the conclusion of the Camino Frances
Ian, fellow Canuck here. Sorry you felt that way and experienced some unpleasantness. Myself I love SDC, but highly recommend to stay for a while and not always be in the old city SDC has so much else to offer that most pilgrims, due to tight travel plans or simply stilcking around the cathedral never have a chance to explore. Keeping in mind that this year not only is the extension of the Holy Year and the return of Pilgrims and Tourists en masse, it does not surprise me that tempers flare on both sides. Keep in mind that a lot of the 'locals' have gone through the worst of COVID restrictions and shut downs, that we Canadians never had to endure. Keep in mind that the Russian Ukrainian war has deeper consequences in Europe, we do not experience in Canada. Fuel cost might be one thing here in Canada, but still manageable, not so much in Europe, and in this case Spain that already had a slow economic recovery from a previous crises. I hope you will take home all the beautiful lessons and experiences gifted to you during your Camino ...one if the biggest lessons for me was and still is TOLERANCE. Light and Love, Suseia!I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
Ian, fellow Canuck here. Sorry you felt that way and experienced some unpleasantness. Myself I love SDC, but highly recommend to stay for a while and not always be in the old city SDC has so much else to offer that most pilgrims, due to tight travel plans or simply stilcking around the cathedral never have a chance to explore. Keeping in mind that this year not only is the extension of the Holy Year and the return of Pilgrims and Tourists en masse, it does not surprise me that tempers flare on both sides. Keep in mind that a lot of the 'locals' have gone through the worst of COVID restrictions and shut downs, that we Canadians never had to endure. Keep in mind that the Russian Ukrainian war has deeper consequences in Europe, we do not experience in Canada. Fuel cost might be one thing here in Canada, but still manageable, not so much in Europe, and in this case Spain that already had a slow economic recovery from a previous crises. I hope you will take home all the beautiful lessons and experiences gifted to you during your Camino ...one if the biggest lessons for me was and still is TOLERANCE. Light and Love, Suseia!I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I am in Santiago right now and I have to agree with you. This is my 5th Camino and the atmosphere/culture seems to have changed over the last 3 years. The crowds and noise are overwhelming as always however people seem on edge. One bar demanded that we sit outside with the other pilgrims even with the high temperatures today. Even the employee at the compastella office yelled at me for not having a cell phone to scan and obtain a number. Prices are always higher in the towns close to Santiago but I don't understand the change in culture towards pilgrims.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I agree with you Ian. I have been to Santiago many times, and it's not an easy place.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
Been there in all weathers too. Still love Santiago as there’s so much to do. I’ve yet to do a guided tour, share a tart but have sat in the yellow rectangle which is the National Geographic emblem as some of you may know, with a lady from Guatemala and that was priceless; the world comes to you on the Camino. I know some of you will laugh or groan but I like the woman singing Ave Maria under the bridge by San Martin Pinario - what a voice! Also staying in the Monastery and buying souvenirs.I think you can have different experiences on different days. The first time I walked into Santiago it was hot, but magic, the piper, the other pilgrims. Exploring around, watching other pilgrims walk in, buying some Camino souvenirs to take home. Buying an entire tarte de Santiago and eating it between us with icecream and laughing because of the brain freeze. Went to the Cathedral which was jam packed and loved the spectacle.
The last time it was raining, not just a bit, but torrential, so we stayed indoors until it abated. Didnt see other pilgrims because of the rain, and were so cold after our walk we just wanted to huddle in bed. The Cathedral was closed. Eventually we ventured out, went to the Anglican service (twice) and decided to head to the coast.
Fatigue? The novelty worn off? Resentment at the growing pressure of numbers? Over just two consecutive days in the past week there were 4,890 Compostelas issued. That is only 28 fewer than the total for the entire year of my first Camino. In just two days in May.Prices are always higher in the towns close to Santiago but I don't understand the change in culture towards pilgrims.
That hits home with me. I arrived in Santiago 4 days ago and got the same feeling as on my former caminos(5) and for the second time I didn't go to the pilgrim office to get the compostela. As an israeli guy I was walking with said - "the stamps means nothing to me and neither does the compostela."We agree 1000%. Santiago is all about the commercialization of the Camino. Our experience was so distressing we decided not to obtain the Compostela. My wife cried, but I told her the Camino is in your heart, in your soul. Not on a piece of paper.
We have been recommending pilgrims make Sarria the conclusion of the Camino Frances
And lots of pilgrims coming to the Pilgrims Office unregisteredFatigue? The novelty worn off? Resentment at the growing pressure of numbers? Over just two consecutive days in the past week there were 4,890 Compostelas issued. That is only 28 fewer than the total for the entire year of my first Camino. In just two days in May.
Not all pilgrims are on this forum so may not know about pre registration.And lots of pilgrims coming to the Pilgrims Office unregisteredyesterday more than 400
why ? PLEASE register in advance ! Less waiting for the pilgrims who did so and less work for the volunteers.
Santiago seems like a “holey” city. Similar experience in 2015. I was going the Covid drop in tourists would help Santiago citizens to appreciate the new influx of dinero. Remembering this and reading your post strengthens my November plans on walking through Santiago and not staying .I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
An off-topic vent.I was given a scolding in 2018 by pilgrim office volunteers for not knowing that the last 100km should be walked on an officially recognised route. A rule so recent that it did not appear on the version of the credencial I had received from Ivar a couple of weeks before and which was mentioned nowhere on the pilgrim office's website at the time.
I'm sorry to hear it's so difficult there. I've only queued up for two compostelas, my first camino and another time with a friend when it was very quiet. The compostela is nice to have, but the misery and loss of peace involved in getting it meant I decided it wasn't worth it for the other times.That hits home with me. I arrived in Santiago 4 days ago and got the same feeling as on my former caminos(5) and for the second time I didn't go to the pilgrim office to get the compostela. As an israeli guy I was walking with said - "the stamps means nothing to me and neither does the compostela."
I couldn't get out of santiago fast enough
Hi Ronald, if you've been there before I'd say walk straight through. Or stay at an albergue close to Santiago and walk through very early in the morning if you want to see the cathedral etc.Santiago seems like a “holey” city. Similar experience in 2015. I was going the Covid drop in tourists would help Santiago citizens to appreciate the new influx of dinero. Remembering this and reading your post strengthens my November plans on walking through Santiago and not staying .
I agree with you on this. I have been there twice and its never been the highlight of my trip. I feel it’s getting more and more commercial and expensive.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I agree. In fact I'd like to go further and drop the distance and route rules altogether. Go back to the days when Compostelas were available for all who visited the shrine of the apostle with spiritual intent - irrespective of distance travelled or the mode of transport. Not going to happen any time soon though.But getting a Compostella for walking as a pilgrim shouldn't depend on what route one takes, so long as the walking happens.
It can be a shock to find Santiago is a city full of ordinary people just trying to make a living.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I am sorry you experienced Santiago in that way. My experiences were just the opposite. Perhaps next time will improveI just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
I agree and though the bufemerro (sorry about the spelling) swung at 3 masses while we were in Santiago I could not go as I went into the Church first and just saw opulence and a Brother/Priest with his hand out wanting money if I wanted to take a photo from behind the Alter. I think for my self part of it was sensory overload after walking from SJPdP and I needed that breath of peace and recovery before I reintegrated myself with full on tourism overload. What arriving there did confirm for me is that it was truly about the Journey not the Destination.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
My avatar here on the forum used to be a very old photo of me bathing in the Ganga just upstream from Varanasi. A river and a city which are sacred to millions but which both have plenty of unpleasant surprises in store too. I can see the parallels!I've been to sacred sites in India, and it's still India.
I would also argue because these are holy cities/sites is precisely why all sorts of characters come out of the woodwork. Plenty of folks wearing orange impersonating "sadhus".My avatar here on the forum used to be a very old photo of me bathing in the Ganga just upstream from Varanasi. A river and a city which are sacred to millions but which both have plenty of unpleasant surprises in store too. I can see the parallels!
We agree 1000%. Santiago is all about the commercialization of the Camino. Our experience was so distressing we decided not to obtain the Compostela. My wife cried, but I told her the Camino is in your heart, in your soul. Not on a piece of paper.
We have been recommending pilgrims make Sarria the conclusion of the Camino Frances
I had the same experience.I think it's a matter of timing. My first time in Santiago I miscalculated how long it was going to take me to get there and so was there for 3 days. The day I arrived and the next day I saw dozens of pilgrims I recognised. On the last day everybody I saw was unknown and that's when I knew it was time to go home.
I've been to sacred sites in India, and it's still India.
God speaks to each of us as he makes us,
then walks with us silently out of the night.
These are the words we dimly hear:
You, sent out beyond your recall,
go to the limits of your longing.
Embody me.
Flare up like a flame
and make big shadows I can move in.
Let everything happen to you: beauty and terror.
Just keep going. No feeling is final.
Don’t let yourself lose me.
Nearby is the country they call life.
You will know it by its seriousness.
Give me your hand.
Ian - We've been to Santiago a few times (and we are just back from doing Le Puy again).I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience and opinion.
Yes, in general this may be so, though it hasn't been my experiece. The trend would hardly be a surprise, given the numbers of people walking intp Santiago every year - and the decreasing proportion of those who are 'old school.'we have noticed the former care and concern for the pilgrims wearing a bit thin
That pretty much, but not entirely, sums up tourist destinations.I just finished my camino and got my Compostela and distance certificate - 1515 km from Le Puy in two stages. The experience was extremely rewarding, perhaps above all for getting to know the Spanish people and culture, which we Canadians have little connection with. I was truly impressed at how often I was treated with sincere friendliness, and how many times people went out of their way to help a stranger.
This made my experience of Santiago a little disconcerting. The Holy City seemed to have an angry edge everywhere I went. Traffic was bad. Everyone seemed to be either in a rage, or else sizing me up for how much money they could get from me. I was screamed at more than once in cafés and then at another I was charged 6 euros for a café americano and a small piece of Santiago torta. (I guess I should have gotten a written quote in advance!) Frankly I couldn't get out of there fast enough. The rest of the camino and the other cities of Spain I have visited - Sevilla, Madrid and Granada were all very positive experiences.
I hope this doesn't seem like a bummer for those on their way to Santiago, but it's just an honest experience tourist destinations?
I am aware of that. Nevertheless it has to be mentioned all the time. As many as read about this matter, the better it is.Not all pilgrims are on this forum so may not know about pre registration.
Those who see everything only through rose-coloured glasses are entitled to their vision, and to insist that they are right.
We, who knew the place in the days before the Pilgrim Mass was desecrated by the forest of iPhones taking snaps of the consecration of the host and the wine ... we are entitled to lament the loss of innocence.
But the old spirtit is definitely still there. You just have to learn to ignore the touristic part. Which let's face it has always been there. The street leading down to the cathedral is named after the Jet amulets that pilgrims would buy to take home as souvenirs. Plus ça change...
Facts may be facts but they are only your facts. Everyone has to draw their own impression of Santiago or anywhere else for that matter, that will be their facts.Ian - We've been to Santiago a few times (and we are just back from doing Le Puy again).
Everything you say mirrors our experience. There will be responses with pious claptrap, and some will be patronising, but facts are facts.
Santiago has lost its magic. We are thankful that we made our first visit in more innocent times. Our memories of that wonderful experience are still clear.
However, during every visit since, we have noticed the former care and concern for the pilgrims wearing a bit thin. There is an increase in the number of those focussed on extracting the maximum amount from the pilgrim trade. Santiago has become a tourist drawcard. It's a pity.
Of course there are honourable exceptions. Ivar who runs this forum is one of them - without this facility we would all be lost (literally!) - and we know of a few others - true believers.
Those who see everything only through rose-coloured glasses are entitled to their vision, and to insist that they are right.
We, who knew the place in the days before the Pilgrim Mass was desecrated by the forest of iPhones taking snaps of the consecration of the host and the wine ... we are entitled to lament the loss of innocence.
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