Camino de Portugués-2 wheels and the wrong way round

[Sláine]

Hi all,

I will be in Pontevedra for a football tournament at the start of the Easter hols and will make my way back to base in Madrid via the Camino Portugués (or Camino de Madrid if previous idea not feasible). As I am going the 'wrong way' with a dire sense of direction this will be a challenge to follow the arrows backwards! However, I am confident that the Camino will provide as ever and Portugal and it's people are more than worth the mindbending!

I would like to cycle the route back from Santiago to Lisbon. I am looking for a good source of information as to gradient, on/off road routes and accomodation. I will be on a decent mountain bike this time although I managed to complete the Camino del Norte in July 2014 on a very regular city bike. I can cycle 50 km a day average with sight seeing or 100 km at a push to reach Lisbon in time to get home! As a previous coastal dweller at home I would like to follow the coastal route for the wind in my wheels and hair for as long as possible also. I will start and travel alone but am looking forward to the characters that I will meet en route also!

Any recommendations for cycling Camino Portugues; websites, blogs, vlogs, other forum users or even books welcome etc. I have found walkers to be very willing to help but cycling their routes is sometimes impossible on a bike.

Thanks/Muchas gracias. In return I can offer some experience of my first Camino on wheels last year-Camino del Norte and in two words: 'Do it!' Why? Because it is sometimes tough but mostly gorgeous alternative to queueing/shuffling along stretches of the Camino Francés that I saw towards the end of my trip. If you love the beaches and mountains, with splashes of cider and rain this is for you! Its the green, Celtic heart of Spain.

I also used to live in Santiago so am not foregoing the delights of a visit to this city but will visit my Gallego friends instead before exploring their cousin civilisation next year. In any case, I like to go off the well beaten path, it's where peace and adventures collide!

2 legs good but 2 wheels better

Sláine

 

[Camembert]

From the Spanish/Portugese border point blue waymarkers as far as Tomar direction Fátima. From Tomar you have to find your way to Lisbon .the yellow and blue waymakers go together from Lisbon to Santarèm where they split up to Fátima and Santiago
The Fatima pilgrims often follow the shortest way by walking on the hardshoulder of mainroads, recognisable at yellow safety vests , sneakers/light sportshoes and day backpacks.

 

[edumad]

From the Spanish/Portugese border point blue waymarkers as far as Tomar direction Fátima.

Not so sure about that. There will be many sections where it is not clear. I've found many sections of the regular central route where this is the case.
Having said that, I met a portuguese pilgrim doing Santiago to Fátima and he said he didn't have much problems.
Walking is slower so easier to be aware than on bike.

If you aren't on a hurry, just being aware of the yellow arrows (might mean looking back) is sufficient if more work.

 

[Sláine]

Thanks Albertinho! Have you cycled this route the right way around even? Is Fatima worth a detour of a day on the bike? Seems as if there may be no cycling guide and perhaps not necessary for this route?

From the Spanish/Portugese border point blue waymarkers as far as Tomar direction Fátima. From Tomar you have to find your way to Lisbon .the yellow and blue waymakers go together from Lisbon to Santarèm where they split up to Fátima and Santiago
The Fatima pilgrims often follow the shortest way by walking on the hardshoulder of mainroads, recognisable at yellow safety vests , sneakers/light sportshoes and day backpacks.

 

[Sláine]

Not so sure about that. There will be many sections where it is not clear. I've found many sections of the regular central route where this is the case.
Having said that, I met a portuguese pilgrim doing Santiago to Fátima and he said he didn't have much problems.
Walking is slower so easier to be aware than on bike.

If you aren't on a hurry, just being aware of the yellow arrows (might mean looking back) is sufficient if more work.

Thanks for your contribution also edumad. Are there two routes then-one coastal and one inland? I'm encouraged to hear that I may not be the only one going backwards! When you say 'aware' do you mean of traffic on busy roads? I have that every day commuting to work and last summer on Camino del Norte also. It doesn't enhance my experience but wouldn't put me off it totally either. My only hurry is to get back for work after Easter holidays-I think time off the track is as much a part of the trip as the path itself. ;-)

 

[Camembert]

Thanks Albertinho! Have you cycled this route the right way around even? Is Fatima worth a detour of a day on the bike? Seems as if there may be no cycling guide and perhaps not necessary for this route?

No I did not cycle and yes backwards but by car last year.
We went to Fátima but it did not atract to us. But I am only speak by my self. Don't let my opinion stop you from going.

 

[Camembert]

If you look on the map. There is one route from Porto to Barcelos ,Ponte de Lima Valença/Tui, redondela,Pontevedra, Padron to Samtiago apnd the other way round called the central route and one from Porto via Viana do Castelo, Caminha, a Guarda , Baiona and Vigo to Redondela called the Coastal route.
From Redondela to Santiago it is the central route.
Exist also an interior but this. One follows the eastern side of Portugal

 

[edumad]

Are there two routes then-one coastal and one inland? I'm encouraged to hear that I may not be the only one going backwards! When you say 'aware' do you mean of traffic on busy roads?

I meant it is easier to notice arrows and where they should be. Going backwards when there are no arrows means you have to look back, look at sign post or electricity pole and realize that on the other side of that might be an arrow to confirm you are on track. Things will just take a little longer. If you are used to commuting and comfortable on a bike it is easier of course.

Having a mountain bike will mean that practically all the way you can follow the path riding the bike. One place where you really cannot ride is in the Labruja hill (for you just after Rubiães). I have only done from Porto to Santiago, so don't know of any other tricky places down south. The are always some places more technically difficult or very steep, but I wouldn't go away from path because of it.

If you need to take a detour through the main roads to save time, you can take a simple map. Even better ask people for the next main city on your route, or ask "estrada nacional para [city name]" (national road to...).

If you need help, we are here for you.