An extract from some articles I wrote on pilgrim traditions in Santiago:
Journey’s End
All routes to Santiago de Compostela end at the great Cathedral which dominates this beautiful medieval town. Legend has it that therein lies the tomb of the Apostle St James who has inspired millions of pilgrims for over 500 years to journey to this place.
The Pillar, the Hug and the Tomb
Each day pilgrims arrive at the Cathedral Square but their journey is not at
an end, they still have things to do.
Entering the Cathedral pilgrims enters by the magnificent Portico de la Gloria. The Door of Glory. It is a magnificently carved triple entrance with the figure of |St James as the centre piece. The Portico is from the 12 century and is the work of sculptor Master Mateo. Passing through the Portico each pilgrim first touches the Pillar depicting the Tree of Jesse where now you can actually put your fingers into grooves marked by centuries of
hands.
Then onto the other side of the Portico to the figure believed to be the bust of Master Mateo. Traditionally students banged their heads on the bust in the hope some of the Master’s wisdom would be transmitted to them. Many pilgrims follow suit. Alas at the moment the Portico de la Gloria is closed for restoration. It can be seen but not touched.
Then to the back of the high altar to rise behind the statue of St James to give him the traditional "abrazo" - a warm hug in gratitude for a journey well made.
Then descending to the tomb of the Saint to pray quietly in thanks for all that has been encountered on the long journey here.
Seal of approval - The Compostela
Pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela carry a Pilgrim Passport with them. They have these stamped everywhere they stop on the way. This document gives access to the network of refuges provided along the routes.
Beside the Cathedral is the Pilgrims’ Office, just like Passport Control! There the Pilgrim Passport receives the final seal of the Cathedral of Santiago. Those pilgrims who have walked at least the final 100 kms or traveled by bicycle or on horseback at least the final 200 kms will have their name written in Latin on the Compostela, the certificate attesting to their pilgrimage.
Pilgrim Mass
Each morning around 11 am everyone starts to make their way to the Cathedral. It fills quickly and by noon it is standing room only. Rucksack bearing pilgrims mingle with camera toting tourists.
At the stroke of Noon intones the entrance antiphon:
" Laudate Dominum, Omnes Gentes, Alleluia" and 1000 voices repeat "All
people praise the Lord, Alleluia". The procession of priests enters, many
still wearing their walking boots under their vestments. A long list of the countries from which pilgrims have arrived in the last 24 hours is read.
The Mass which follows is deeply moving, with different accents and
languages contributing and from the Pilgrims a profound sense of thankful
relief and celebration that the journey has ended.
For them perhaps... but even during Mass still they come...rising behind the
altar and hugging the statue of St James.
Holy Smoke - The Botafumeiro
The Botafumeiro is the world’s largest thurible weighing 40 kgs. Some say it was used as a medieval deodorant when the cathedral was full of pilgrims who hadn’t washed for the duration of their journey. Others say that the billows of incense it produces symbolise the prayers of the pilgrims.
Nowadays the Botafumeiro is swung at the end of some of the pilgrim masses when
a team of 8 tiraboleiros operate a huge medieval mechanism to swing the Botafumeiro the height and length of the transept of the Cathedral.