Chalk Up Another Small Favor Granted by Santiago

[scruffy1]

Was in Leon a place I do not like-not the walk in certainly not the walk out, I find the cathedral far too overwhelming I do love San Isodoro. So, I bolted. Hopped a bus for Zamora, 60 k to the south on the Via de la Plata- a living museum for my favorite Romanesque churches, some 14 here!!! Strolled down to see the bridge also Romanesque and walked the Camino back to the center of town. Passing Chapel Santa Lucia stopped to read the explanation. 12 th century closed for several centuries but here was the Jewish Quarter! Nothing left after 500 years of course but of the 4 or 5 ways to climb back into town , Santiago revealed something very moving for this pilgrim. Another of many many debts which I owe him.

 

[Deleted member 36903]

Thank you for this, I am now planning to take the detour next year. Are you returning to Leon to continue or staying on the Via de la Plata?

 

[woodswoman]

Was in Leon a place I do not like-not the walk in certainly not the walk out, I find the cathedral far too overwhelming I do love San Isodoro. So, I bolted. Hopped a bus for Zamora, 60 k to the south on the Via de la Plata- a living museum for my favorite Romanesque churches, some 14 here!!! Strolled down to see the bridge also Romanesque and walked the Camino back to the center of town. Passing Chapel Santa Lucia stopped to read the explanation. 12 th century closed for several centuries but here was the Jewish Quarter! Nothing left after 500 years of course but of the 4 or 5 ways to climb back into town , Santiago revealed something very moving for this pilgrim. Another of many many debts which I owe him.

For you, Scruffy, this was the right thing, but perhaps not for everyone. I loved Leon. Bussed in and then took a short bus just out about 5 km and began the walk again. But I did love the cathedral, much more than the one in Burgos. Burgos Cathedral is beautiful on the outside, but inside is a completely overwhelming hodgepodge in my mind. Leon's church was breathtaking. So though Scruffy decided Leon was not his cup of tea, I'd urge walkers not to dismiss Leon out of hand. Try it . . . in September, they have a month-long Organ festival, and I attended two beautiful (and free) concerts there in 2013. This year I walked the Norte, so I missed Leon, but if I were to travel to Spain again, Leon would be one of my favorite cities to visit, along with Barcelona and Seville. So you other walkers might try it . . . I do admit walking in and out of big cities, through their industrial areas, is really a pain. On the Norte, we skipped those areas of Bilbao, Gijon, and Santander.

 

[shubertj]

I agree with Woodswomen Leon was one of our favorite stops on the Camino. In fact we discussed coming back and spending a week enjoying the city. As always the walk in and out of big cities aren't the most scenic. But I would hate to see someone pass up a visit to Leon. We did slog out of Leon (suffering with my first blisters) to Villavante 35K and stayed at the best night on the Camino at Molina Golachas (Private old mill house with river running under it). Scruffy thanks for the memory.

 

[Annette london]

Was in Leon a place I do not like-not the walk in certainly not the walk out, I find the cathedral far too overwhelming I do love San Isodoro. So, I bolted. Hopped a bus for Zamora, 60 k to the south on the Via de la Plata- a living museum for my favorite Romanesque churches, some 14 here!!! Strolled down to see the bridge also Romanesque and walked the Camino back to the center of town. Passing Chapel Santa Lucia stopped to read the explanation. 12 th century closed for several centuries but here was the Jewish Quarter! Nothing left after 500 years of course but of the 4 or 5 ways to climb back into town , Santiago revealed something very moving for this pilgrim. Another of many many debts which I owe him.

I agree with scruffy. Will never do that walk into Leon again or indeed out of it. Leon was not the city for us. Walked for a few hours out of the city and then hopped on a bus to hospital de origba. From then on-- bliss. Previously we have taken the alternative route after Leon which was nice but if anyone asked advice re having a limited amount of time to walk the Camino, I would advise against the section in and out of Leon. The via de la plata was indeed lovely with lovely cities. Only our opinion!!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

It's a pilgrimage. You walk the ugly parts, you walk the hills, you walk the pretty parts. Otherwise, it's sight-seeing. Which in itself is not a bad thing...

 

[peregrina2000]

Was in Leon a place I do not like-not the walk in certainly not the walk out, I find the cathedral far too overwhelming I do love San Isodoro. So, I bolted. Hopped a bus for Zamora, 60 k to the south on the Via de la Plata- a living museum for my favorite Romanesque churches, some 14 here!!! Strolled down to see the bridge also Romanesque and walked the Camino back to the center of town. Passing Chapel Santa Lucia stopped to read the explanation. 12 th century closed for several centuries but here was the Jewish Quarter! Nothing left after 500 years of course but of the 4 or 5 ways to climb back into town , Santiago revealed something very moving for this pilgrim. Another of many many debts which I owe him.

Hi, scruffy, I LOVE Zamora. The tourist office told me that there were 23 romanesque churches in town, not a piddling 14

I hope you made it to the church of Santiago de los Caballeros. It´s not the fanciest of the romanesque beauties, but for me it's the most amazing. El Cid is reputed to have prayed here. It is a bit outside the walls so many people miss it. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Annette london]

It's a pilgrimage. You walk the ugly parts, you walk the hills, you walk the pretty parts. Otherwise, it's sight-seeing. Which in itself is not a bad thing...

Yes I agree and respect that for the pilgrims but we don't walk as pilgrims ,just love the Camino France's . Not sure why! Closet pilgrims pilgrims perhaps!! That's why we stay in hostels and not take up a pilgrims bed now. Best wishes annette

 

[obinjatoo@yahoo.com]

I stayed with the Sister's in Leon in that HUGE alburgue. They let me stay two nights because I hobbled in with some nasty blisters on my heels. I love, love, love staying with the various religious orders. It is incredible to me how some of the people are just so committed to pilgrims and providing respite along the way. It just blows my mind!

 

[Deleted member 36903]

Just to clarify earlier post, unlike Scruffy I enjoyed the walk into Leon, found it to be a welcoming city with friendly people (my experience in Burgos was quite the opposite but that might have been because I was very tired. Like Woodswoman, I loved the cathedral in Leon and will walk to the city again on my second Camino in 2016, but the chance to visit Zamora would be a wonderful opportunity. As I don't have holidays (and haven't done for many years - too much work, animals to feed & too little money) I think I am permitted to stray off the path for a few hours and still be considered to be on pilgrimage and not a sightseer. If I were a Catholic rather than an Anglican, I would my offer my glad willingness to walk for days again through the horizontal rain of Galicia (and discovering once more that the manufacturers had lied when they advertised their boots as waterproof) as penance for my brief worldly pleasures.

 

[Kanga]

Oh @Annette london León is my favourite city on the Camino Frances! Get hold of the Cultural Handbook (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0312254164/?tag=casaivar02-20 and spend time exploring. It really is a wonderful, elegant, small city.

 

[scruffy1]

Hi, scruffy, I LOVE Zamora. The tourist office told me that there were 23 romanesque churches in town, not a piddling 14

I hope you made it to the church of Santiago de los Caballeros. It´s not the fanciest of the romanesque beauties, but for me it's the most amazing. El Cid is reputed to have prayed here. It is a bit outside the walls so many people miss it. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[DurhamParish]

It's a pilgrimage. You walk the ugly parts, you walk the hills, you walk the pretty parts. Otherwise, it's sight-seeing. Which in itself is not a bad thing...

Agreed!!! For me, I can't stand the idea of unnecessarily riding in a wheeled vehicle once I start the Camino. But that's just me, and I'm not making any judgments on anyone else.