Was in Leon a place I do not like-not the walk in certainly not the walk out, I find the cathedral far too overwhelming I do love San Isodoro. So, I bolted. Hopped a bus for Zamora, 60 k to the south on the Via de la Plata- a living museum for my favorite Romanesque churches, some 14 here!!! Strolled down to see the bridge also Romanesque and walked the Camino back to the center of town. Passing Chapel Santa Lucia stopped to read the explanation. 12 th century closed for several centuries but here was the Jewish Quarter! Nothing left after 500 years of course but of the 4 or 5 ways to climb back into town , Santiago revealed something very moving for this pilgrim. Another of many many debts which I owe him.